Aquarium Plumbing Basics - Reef Aquarium

Aquarium Plumbing Basics - Reef Aquarium
11/11/2014
HOME
YOUR GUIDE TO A THRIVING REEF
AQUARIUM PLUMBING
BASICS
13 APR 2012
POSTED BY CLIFF
49 COMMENTS
When you set out to plumb an aquarium set-up

with a sump, the more planning / thought you put
into the original set-up, the better it will be in the
long run. This is not a very hard thing to do at all,
if you focus on the basics and understand them. I
tend to think of it in flowing different steps: A)
Planning of your flow rates, B) planning the
material types and sizes, and C) installation / setup of the plumbing system. All of what you are
about to read below is based on my experiences
with various data from some North American
manufactures of plumbing products (IPEX,
Canplas, and Boshart) which is also detailed in the
American Society for Testing and Materials
(ASTM) standards.
I will explain what I mean by each step then I will
show you examples from one of my reef tanks
Note: you have to keep in mind, there may be

variation in the plumbing products available to you
based on the national building codes of the
country that you live in along with local
regulations. The below applies to almost all of
Canada and the United States. The products
available to you may vary.
A) Planning Flow Rates
With every system, you need to know how much
flow you will need. Typically this is calculated in
gallons per hour (GPH). For example, most people
feel a flow through their sumps of 10 times the
display tank volume is suitable. If you have a 120
gallon display tank, then that would mean you will
need 1200 gph of flow. But that is only a general
guideline. Your exact flow rate could be higher or
lower depending on the equipment in the sump or
what you are planning to use the sump for. Once
you have determined the flow rate you will need,
http://www.reefaquarium.com/2012/aquarium-plumbing-basics/
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you will need to apply this target flow rate

differently to both your drain line and your return
line. The 10X flow rate is typically a good base to
start working from and can apply to almost all
typical salt water setups. Some people prefer
high flow through their sumps. Fresh water setups
typically use a little lower flow rates, around 4 to 6
times the display tank volume is more common.
Drain lines are the lines bring water down from
the display tank into the sump. There are many
different approaches to achieving this, but mainly
fall into one of two categories: Siphon based
systems, or a Gravity system (which involves
drilling a hole in your tank). With either set-up,
one of the bigger factors to consider is the flow
rates under extremely little to no pressure. Both
types of drains are very similar in GPH (no real
significant differences) and these types of drains
are discussed in my example here the end of the
article. Whatever choice you make, you have to
make sure the drain line can also handle the flow
you want to put through the sump.
Return lines are the pressurized lines that run
from the return pump back into the display tank.
There are three factors that are very important to
consider here: flow rates, pressure, and the types
and numbers of fittings used.
B) Planning Material Types and Sizes
With all aquarium setups (both salt water and
fresh water), you have to make sure the pipe and
fittings you use to plumb your system are both
meant for potable water (can safely handle
drinking water) and is resistant to corrosion and
scaling. You can ensure those requirements are
met by using one of the below material types
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene).
Typically only used for drainage in homes as it
cannot withstand much pressure or heat. This is
typically black in color. ABS is the cheapest pipe
and fittings that can be used. It is only suitable for
drain lines and should not be used for pressurized
applications.
PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride). Most commonly used
as it can handle a range of pressure and some
heat. It can be used in residential and commercial
drinking water supply (cold water supply only). It
usually is the most economical choice for almost
all aquarium setups as well as being the most
commonly used for pressurized and drain
lines.You can get it in both in flexible and rigid
pipe (flexible PVC has lower pressure ratings).
This is typically white in color.
CPVC (Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride). Most
commonly used in commercial and/or industrial
applications. Can handle both hot and cold
drinking water supply. This is typically a shade of
grey in color. Although this can be used in an
aquarium set-up, it is one of the more expensive
options.
PEX (Cross-Linked Polyethylene). Slowly
becoming the most used product in the
construction of new homes for both the hot and
cold drinking water supplies. Is made both in
flexible and rigid pipe while maintaining the same
pressure rating. PEX is typically a white, almost
transparent color. Although this can be used for
both pressurized and drain lines, it also is a very
expensive option as you need special tools when
connecting PEX fittings.
PVC and CPVC are also available in different
grades / thicknesses to allow for higher pressure
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and higher heat limits on both the pipe and

fittings. This is done through using the Schedule
System. The wall thickness of the pipe and fittings
is designated with a schedule number. The
range from sch (schedule) 40 all the way up to
sch 160. Typically you will find sch 40 (regular)
and schedule 80 (extra heavy) available in most
hardware stores. Schedule 120 and 160 is not
commonly used or available in retail stores.
For PVC pipe and fittings, The general rule of
thumb is that any pressurized application that
would require your set-up to have below 2 inch
pipe can / should be completed in schedule 40.
Anything higher (ie.. 2 and 2 inch applications)
would require schedule 80. That may vary based
on exact conditions. You would not have to worry
about up-grading to sch 80 pipe unless your
system would require around 5,500 gph of flow
(or higher flow) through a single plumbing line.
For ease of identification, most manufactures
make regular PVC (sch 40) white in color while
they make sch 80 in grey. Not all manufactures
will do this. Its always best to read the markings
and labeling on the fittings or pipe just to make
sure.
The below charts summarized flow rates by: no
pressure, average pressure applications, and the
maximum pressure that the pipe and fittings can
handle in standard PVC (standard = sch 40). Once
I start to talk about an example of plumbing a
sump, I will be referring back to these charts
(GPH = Gallons Per Hour )
And just to clear up some of the terminology used,

ID = Inside Diameter while OD = Outside
Diameter.
Loss of flow
Once thing to keep in mind, when planning your
plumbing set-up the pump should be the last thing
you choose. The reason for this is that you need
to know how much loss of flow you will have from
your plumbing design. Each time you add a 90
degree elbow, or a swing check valve, you will
lose some flow because of these additions to your
plumbing line. The below list are more of a rule of
thumb with calculating flow loss of your
pressurized return line only. They may not be
100% accurate, as many other factors can effect
these calculations. They will be close enough for
you to get an accurate estimate of the flow
reduction. The below factors will become very
important when planning your set-up.
A loss of 75 to 125 GPH for each foot of height
(from the pump to the display tank return)
A loss of 50 to 75 GPH for each 90 degree elbow
A loss of 30 to 50 GPH for each 45 degree elbow
A loss of 50 to 75 GPH for each swing check
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valve
A loss of 20 to 40 GPH for each ball valve
A loss of ~ 3 to 5 GPH for each union
I will also be referring back to this information
latter when I show how I planned the plumbing
layout of my sump.
C) Planning the set-up/Installation.
We have already discussed the typical sizes and
material available for your pipe, now it might be
best to talk about fittings, other than the more
common fittings pictured below. This will help you
when it comes time to plan each line in your
plumbing.
Below are some of the other fittings that typically
use and most likely can be used in your set-up.
PVC Unions
These are very useful fittings to have in your setup. It can allow you to quickly disconnect a part of
the system and then reconnect again without have
to worry about gluing or resealing anything. A
perfect example of this would be using a union to
connect your return pump to the system. This
way, you could quickly remove the pump from the
plumbing, clean it, then reconnect the pump with
a minimal amount of down-time. On more
complicated set-ups, it allows for building the
plumbing system in different sections before
quickly connecting it together. Using unions is also
a good idea when working in tight / small paces
as you can assemble the lines elsewhere before
connecting the system together. They come in
standard and sch 80 PVC for both socket weld and
screwed / threaded connections
Bulk-head flanges
On a set-up that uses a tank with drilled holes in

the glass, the bulk head flange attaches to this
hole allowing us to attach plumbing lines to each
side of the hole while giving us a water tight seal
to the glass that will withstand pressure. They can
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also come in regular and sch 80 PVC for both

socket weld and screwed / threaded connections.
The most common bulk head flanges are
threaded.
Valves
There are three main types of valves that are the
most common in aquarium set-ups, swing check
valves, ball check valves, and ball valves. Each has
a different use in a plumbing setup.
Swing check valves allow for water movement in
only one direction. It has a plate / door inside the
valve which will swing open when pressure is
apply to only one side of it. It will swing shut when
pressure is applied to the other side. Many people
install check valves on the return line to their main
tank to help prevent water draining back into the
sump should the return pump stop working (ie.. if
the power goes off). There are a few different
types of check valve out there, but the swing
check valve is among the most common one used.
The better quality swing check valves are design
to work without a spring assembly but they will
restrict the flow a little. They are available in
regular and sch 80 PVC for both socket weld and
screwed / threaded connections. The diagram
below will show you how the inside of a swing
check valve works. Exact designs vary among
different manufactures
Ball check valves have the same purpose as

compared to a swing check valve. Ball check valve
are another type of very simple check valve to only
allow water to flow in one direction through the
valve. The valve uses a PVC ball and the force of
the water to work. When water is flowing through
the valve in the intended direction of flow, the
water will hold the ball up against 4 PVC rails
inside the body of the valve. These rails allow
enough spacing around the ball for water to freely
move around it. Only one of the internal rails is
shown in the below diagram.
When the direct of the flow changes to the

opposite of the intended direction of flow, the ball
will be pushed back to rest on a rubber gasket and
prevent any flow from getting past it.
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The below is a picture of a ball check valve that I

used on a larger reef tank. The picture was taken
early on when plumbing it all together.
Please note, a ball check valve works best when

installed on a vertical line, not a horizontal line like
pictured above.
Ball valves are used to control flow and/or to shut

off flow. It is basically a ball with a hole drilled
completely through it that is also has the same
inside diameter as the pipe it is connected to.
When the handle is turned in the same direction of
the pipe, the hole lines up with the pipe and the
valve is fully open. When the handle is turned in
the opposite direction of the pipe, the hole turned
the other way and the valve is completely closed.
These are also available in regular and sch 80
PVC for both socket weld and screwed
connections.
I would refer you to the below article with some

more detialed information about valves commonly
used on sumped aqauriums
http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/aquariumplumbing-valves/
Miscellaneous adapter / fittings

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There are a ton of different fittings designed to be

used in certain situations that you may come
across like: reducing sizes (glued or threaded or
both), increasing sizes (glued or threaded or
both), going from threaded to glued fittings, or
going from glued to threaded fittings. Ive only
mentioned and provided pictures of a few of those
types of fittings here to give you an idea of what is
available out there.
Drilled or not drilled

One of the last things you will need to decide is if
your display tank will be drilled or not. If the tank
will be drilled, it would also be recommended that
you have a internal or external overflow for the
drain line. I always recommend a drilled tank.
Putting it all together
As previously mentioned, there are two traditional
ways of connecting your plumbing system together
when using PVC and/or ABS materials. One
method involves using a combination of threaded
fittings and solvent weld (AKA gluing), and a
second of using only solvent welded (glued)
fittings.
Using Threaded Fittings
This is a fairly easy method to use. There are
three things you have to keep in mind:
1) You will need to use thread tape. In pressurized
lines, this will fill in the small gaps between the
threads and prevent any leaks. It will also help to
keep the two fitting tight together. Just make sure
you wrap the tape around the threads very tightly
and in the opposite direction of the threads so it
will not become un-wound or bunch up in one
spot when you screw the fittings together (see
below pic).
2) Do not use / connect threaded fittings made
from different materials together. The reason
being is that different materials will have different
expansion rates when/if they are heated up or get
very cold. This will likely cause leaks even when
thread tape is applied.
3) Unless you are a skilled pipe fitter by trade, you
will need to use adapters to transition from
threaded fittings to solvent weld fittings. The
reason being is that at some point you are going
to need to have a piece of pipe cut to fit a portion
of one of your lines. Unless you can have the ends
thread to the exact length and depth of the
fittings, you going to have to use solvents and
adapter to transition between the two connection
methods.
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Solvent Welding
This is my preferred method. When it is done
correctly the bond between the fittings will outlast
the pipe and fittings themselves. Solvent Weld is
commonly referred to as gluing even though it is
not a gluing process at all. The solvent cement
actually starts to melt or soften the outer layers of
the PVC or ABS when it is applied to the pipe and
fitting. When the fitting and pipe are then placed
together, the soften materials will now become
fused together. It will start to harden in sections,
become dry to the touch in about 10 minutes, and
will be fully cured and safe to use in 24 hours.
There is a specific type of solvent for each type
(and sch) of plastic pipe. It is extremely important
to use the correct solvent as it contains an
element of the material dissolved in chemical
called tetrahydrofuran which allows for the
material of both peaces to become fused together.
If you use the incorrect solvent, the bond between
the two fittings will fail over time assuming one
forms at all. When correctly used, the bond
between the two fittings will be unbreakable.
With certain types of plastic pipe and fittings, a
primer is also suggested for use. This mostly
applies to the thicker plastics (like sch 120 or
160), or fittings with finishes that looks like they
are highly polished with a mirror-like finish. For
PVC and ABS applications, primers would not be
required. Additionally, when joining different types
of materials (like Regular PVC and sch 80 PVC)
you will need both a primer and a solvent meant
for using both types of materials or you will not
get a bond that will last over time. These are
commonly referred to as transition cements /
glues.
I would also recommend using a solvent that has
low VOC and (in Canada and the USA) meets on
of the following ASTM standards: ASTM D2564
ASTM F656, ASTM D2235, ASTM F493, ASTM
D3138, and ASTM 2235. Those two statements
(Low VOC and one of the previously listed ASTM
standards) should appear in the bottle.
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Below is how I put together the plumbing set-up

for my 120 gallon tank using a 55 gallon tank as
the sump. I tried to lay it out in little more detailed
steps that I took going from planning the set-up
right to installing the plumbing. Please keep in
mind, this is just one way to set-up and install
plumbing in a sump setup. There are many other
way to approach this. I am only speaking to the
way that I have done this to hopefully give you
ideas on how to approach your set-up.
Now for the first stage A) Planning the
flow rates
Step 1 : How much flow through the display
tank
I had decided that I would use the traditional rule
of thumb. I set my goal to have 10 times the
display tank volume flowing through the sump.
That flow rate is very close to the maximum
recommended flow for my skimmer and I can add
a powerhead to the live rock compartment as that
would be the only compartment which requires a
higher flow rate. As I have a 120 gallon display
tank, that would mean I need 1,200 GPH of flow.
But I am willing to settle for anything between
1,000 and 1,400 gph
Step 2: Drilled tank or not (gravity feed or
Siphon based drain line) ?
When it comes to gravity based drains, there are
two common approaches to control the air/water
mixture in order to get a silent drain. One
approach involves using two drain lines , one line
containing a valve to restrict the water flow to
match the air flow (resulting in a silent drain), and
the second is used as a backup drain should the
first main drain line become clogged. This type of
approach as a few different common names, like:
herbie overflow, bean animal, ocean to ocean
The second approach involves using a single drain
line and controlling / restricting the airflow to
create a silent drain. This is commonly referred to
as a Duriso Standpipe. This is my preferred
approach as the plumbing is easier to setup and,
in my own opinion, less likely to become clogged
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as you are not restricting the flow of water inside

the drain.
As I purchased a new tank, I got one that was
already drilled for a return line and a drain line
with an internal overflow, I set up a duriso
standpipe. Gravity based drains are my preferred
method to set up a tank as you can calculate the
amount of water that can drain back into the sump
should your return pump stop working preventing
any water on the floor. Both of my reef tanks have
been set-up that way as we get frequent power
failures were we live. I chose gravity feed system
over a siphon based system for a few different
reasons. The least of which is that I feel I can
trust gravity feed system not to fail and a gravity
based system makes the least amount of noise
when assembled correctly.
The pic below shows a Durso stand pipe along
with one that I used on my 90 gallon reef tank
Water flows in through the 90 degree elbow at the

top and down the pipe through the bulkhead
flange and into the plumbing line to the sump. At
the very top is a air hole which allows a steady,
even flow of water. This will give you a extremely
quiet drain line. There is no real set size for the
air hole. It can be trial and error. I had made a
adjustable air hole by drilling a 5/8 inch hole
through the side of the cap and the side of the
standpipe. You adjust it by slighting turning the
cap to make the hole smaller or bigger which
controls the flow of air. Through using an
adjustable air hole, you can get the maximum flow
and keep the drain extremely quiet (pic below).
You can also use a oversized hole (such as
inch) and an air valve as well.
The one disadvantage of a Durso standpipe with a
internal overflow is that uneaten food, sludge, etc,
can accumulate in the bottom and sides of the
overflow over time. This is a minor problem, and
really not a big deal. But for this reason I
recommend using all slip fittings in the
construction of the standpipe, and not gluing the
standpipe to the bulkhead. If left unglued, when
the interior of the overflow accumulates too much
sludge, you can simply scrub around inside the
box to loosen things up and pull the standpipe out
of the bulkhead. If you choose to drill your own
tank, the below link explains the steps of that
process.
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquariumforu
m/showthread.php?t=76407
Just remember you must make the hole to
inches larger than the pipe and fitting size the bulk
head flange is rated for. For example, if you want
a 1 bulk head flange you will need a 1 inch
10 / 29
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hole in your tank.

The Siphon set up is a little more involved. Below
is the most common design used.
It is designed to be a non-break siphon. If the

power goes out, the tank will only drain down to
the point of the intake being out of the water and
it is said to start draining again once the return
pump comes back on the water line is above the
intake. I have never tried one so I do not know
how well they actually work. I only wanted to
mention them here as an alternative to a stand
pipe with a drilled tank. The below link can help
you build your own siphon based drain system
should you chose that type of drain.
http://www.evillabs.net/wiki/index.php/Super_Suc
king_Siphon
There are so alternate products available for a
siphon based system using pre-assembled
overflow boxes like the one in the below link.
These products are typically available in stores
that carry products for salt water aquariums. One
example is in the link below. Once again, I have
never used one of these but it is a possible option
to look into should you have a tank that cannot be
drilled.
http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/ofcs100/CPR+C-Siphon+Aquarium+Overflow++CS100+Deluxe+%28800GPH%29.html
B) Material Types and Sizes

Step 3: Choose the pipe and fittings sizes
and material types.
First I determine the size of pipe that I will need
for my return line. You can always cheat at this
step and just go with the same size of pipe and
fittings as the outtake on your return pump. But if I
did not know that, I would base my decision on a
flow rate of 1200 GPH and the fact that I want to
use flexible PVC. This leads me to choose a oneinch line. As flexible PVC has a working pressure
of 100 psi and at that pressure a 1 inch line will
give me ~2220 gph which is more than enough.
For a drain line (including the durso stand pipe) I
chose 1 inch line as the will give me about
1400 gph of flow which is a little more than I need
just to be safe. Either PVC or ABS will be good for
this application. I used PVC as I had some left
over from another sump I had set-up.
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C) Planning the set-up/Installation.

Step 4: plan the layout.
I drew a simple diagram of how I wanted to put
the plumbing together. I kept in mind how much
room I had in the stand, the size of the sump, and
where I wanted to put all of the equipment in the
sump so there would be no plumbing lines in the
way. I also did not require a swing check valve on
either the return line or drain lines as I made sure
the sump has room for all the drain-back into the
sump from the main tank should the return pump
stop working.
Step 5: Calculate the flow loss on the return

line.
Based on: 4 feet of height, three 90 degree
elbows, two unions, and one ball valve, there
would be a estimated loss of 650 gph. This would
mean that I would need a return pump with a flow
of 1650 to 2100 gph. As the drain line does not
have any significant pressure in it, any flow loss
due to only two elbows and a union would not be
significant.
Step 6: Chose a return pump
I ended up getting a pump with a 1800 gph flow
rate which results in a over flow through the sump
of 1,150 gph. This also means I do not have to upgrade the size of my pipe and fittings, or increase
the size of the. All of the other factors that go into
selecting a return pump is a topic best left for
another article.
Step 7: Assemble
After getting everything I needed, along with the
proper cements, I got started. I first measured
and cut the first few pieces of pipe and put
together the plumbing lines as I went. I did not
use any glues at this point. Once I had everything
built and place just the way I wanted it, I marked
each joint with a black marker. That way when I
took it apart to apply the cement, I just had to line
up the two marks on each connection to make
sure it was put it back together just as I had dry
fitted it together. This gives me the options to
adjust things before gluing as well as gluing some
of the plumbing system outside where I dont have
to worry as much about making a big mess
While setting the fittings together I had realized I
forgot to add a line to run a media reactor. I
added that line to the return line using a t fitting.
This will not have a significant effect on the overall
flow
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Step 8: Test.
After letting the newly bonded fittings cure for 24
hours, I filled it up with freshwater and fired up
the return pump. I found one small leak which
was quickly fixed by tightening the bulk head
flange. I let it run for a few days until I had the air
intake adjusted so the drain line had the least
noise.
And just a few pics of the actual set-up
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Please feel free to start a thread in the forum to

ask any questions you may have. If you are not
already a member, you will need to sign-up first.
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquariumforu
m/forumdisplay.php?f=62
For more detialed information about the different

choices that you have for plumbing materials, I
would refer you to the below article here
http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/plumbingpipe-ans-fittings/
RECOMMENDED READING:
Good Starter Fish and

Clean-up Crew Options
Buying a Used Aquarium
Common Approaches to
Filtration in Marine
Aquariums
SHARE THIS
14 / 29
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WRITTEN BY CLIFF
I've been keeping tanks for over 17 years
now and have kept many different set-ups
along the way. My wife and I have really
enjoyed everything we have learned and are
looking forward to many more years of
learning and enjoying this fascinating hobby
along with the rest of our pets.
49 COMMENTS
Isaac Smith 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
You truly are the man Cliff very

comprehensive but still concise.
Thanks for passing on your
knowledge, its going to help me a
lot.
Dennis Stickles 2 YEARS AGO

(Reply)
Great article! Im using the siphon
method for my 125 gal freshwater
tank. Saltwater is something Ill
tackle down the road. Thank you
for taking the time to pass along
this information.
syracuse ny 2 YEARS AGO (Reply)

good article it really helped me
understand what I had been
searching for, Thank you
James labyrinth 2 YEARS AGO

(Reply)
Excellent article, it answered every
question I had! Huge thanks are in
order for the time that youve put
into this.
John L 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Great article. I found this while

googling around ball check valves
for aquaria.
Question for you, Cliff, do you think
a check valve would be necessary
in a non-sump, in-line filtration
system? Specifically, I am running
a series of Lifegard tubes. The
plumbing is basically a simple overthe-lip siphon and a return pipe out
of PVC.
The only info I can find
15 / 29
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recommends check valves back into

the sump. Should my pump fail, I
dont know if I would need one for
this system. The return is
submerged a bit, so it may provide
a counterbalance for the closed
loop.
Cliff Erhardt 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
If you are using a canister filter, you

do not need any type of check valve,
provided you have the intake and
return lines both in the tank. When
both lins are in the tank nothing will
happen when/if you unplug the filter
licensed plumber 2 YEARS AGO

(Reply)
Actually I like to seeing some
aquariums because beautiful fishs
in available this, but these types of
plumbing systems are using in
aquarium it thing is completely new
for me. Yes after reading this blog I
am understand that why plumbing
system is important on aquarium
with fish.
Bucky 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Youve got to be kidding me-its so

transpaernlty clear now!
Daniel perry 2 YEARS AGO (Reply)
Hello I have a 450 litre tank with a
32mm pipe for the outlet of the
tank on the back of the tank with
just the pipe going in to tank any
help to make it flow out better
many thanks I can email pics to u
cheers dan
(Reply)
Daniel, It might be best if you were

to go to our forum and post some
pics and your questions there. It
would be a whole lot easier for me
to be able to help you with your setup that way
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/
aquariumforum/index.php
Debbie 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Thank you so much for this post.

Im setting up a 55 corner reef tank
and have only had nano cubes in
the past. My tank is older with all
non-tempered glass (I hope) and
16 / 29
11/11/2014
understanding the many different

options for plumbing and usage of
a sump has had me overwhelmed.
I appreciate this information.
Debbie
Julie Ziroff 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
I found your information very very

helpful. Thank you so much. I do
have a few questions though I
am putting a sump in my
basement. This is my first time
ever doing plumbing. It would be
10 feet from the tank to the sump.
The loss of GPH would be around
1455. You said using a 1 flexable
PVC line for the return would give
you 2220 GPH. Which would make
my GPH around 765 correct? What
would be the best way to increase
this? I wanted to get around 1000
at the very least. Would increasing
the pipe size for the return line
help. maybe to 1 1/2 in? Any
suggestions would be great. The
tank size is 180 gallon and the
overflow is 1200 GPH.
(Reply)
Julie: Im afraid increasing the size

of the return line will not provide
you with the results you are looking
for. I would suggest looking into a
larger return pump. You also have
to keep in mind that after the first
few months of use, a return pumps
GPH will usually drop after the pump
break-in period is over. I would
suggest a pump in the 2000 (or
more) GPH range. You can always
plumb in a by-pass to reduce the
flow a little if it works out to be a
little more flow than what your drain
line can handle. It certainly would be
a good idea to maximize the flow
your drain line can handle, plus have
a little extra should you ever want to
add anything, such as a media
reactor or a UV.
gahwieuasa 2 YEARS AGO (Reply)
Wow, awesome blog layout!
Thanks For Your article about
Aquarium Plumbing Basics |
Saltwater Aquarium .
Matt 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Great article and I have a quick

question on the loss GPH. You have
listed:
A loss of 75 to 125 GPH for each
foot of height (from the pump to
17 / 29
11/11/2014
the display tank return)

90 degree elbow
45 degree elbow
swing check valve
ball valve
A loss of ~ 3 to 5 GPH for each
union
Do you have any idea how much a
full loop would lose per gallon? I
have off of the sump in line under
the tank a loop prior to entering the
sump. I have a feeling this is
causing sigificant slow down. The
people that installed my tank did it
to lessen the drain noise and
bubbling in the sump. I have the
same 120 you do with a Mag 12
can it feel like its slow flo.
Cliff 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Matt: I would guess one complete

loop would be close to the same
effect (or a little more) as a 90
degree elbow and there is a more
gentle re-direction of the flow. That
would also depend on the length of
the hose as well. I have never found
a very credible reference for how to
calculate that, nor have I actual
calculated it myself. Just a educated
guess on my part.
What I would suggest is signing up
on our forum and starting a thread
to ask this same question. If you
post some pics of your set-up Im
sure we all can figure out how to
increase the flow to the tank.
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/
aquariumforum/index.php
PompanoBeachPlumber
2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Good stuff, thank you for this. As a

contractor this really helps keep me
fresh. Thanks Again
Domenic 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
does any one have a design for an

automatic water changing system
David 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Cliff.Help.
Ok, heres what I have cookin
55 gal tank freshwater for Discus
display.
I want to put the sump refugium in
the basement directly under the
18 / 29
11/11/2014
aquarium above.
11-0 from return pump to tank.
My configuration will not support
one any closer as my aquarium is
place in the wall with a bar on one
side and a pantry on the back side.
Strange I knowbut I placed it in
the wall and currently use a small
fluval 330..not good.
I am constantly doing water
changes and dealing with algae
build up.
Calculations: (did this a couple
different ways but will post most
recent)
Return pump: 1 pvc 2200 GPH
Drain Line: 1 1400 GPH (using
glass holes direct drain line)
55 gal tank @ 10x = 550 GPH
Loss of flow:
@ Return line
(2) 90 degree unions at aquarium
@ 75 GPH= 150 GPH
(1) T Union overflow back to
sump @ 5 GPH= 5 GPH
(2) Unions @ pump and Aquarium
@ 5 GPH= 5 GPH
(1) Ball Valve @ 40 GPH= 40 GPH
(1) Swing Check @ aquarium @ 75
GPH= 75 GPH
11 return Average@ 100 GPH=
1,100 GPH
Total 1,650 GPH LOSS..Help!
Obviously, my Height is the major
contributing factor.. the unions, ball
valve etc. are major factors.
My Return Pump Options: (Would
like to have a ton more as my drain
line is 1000+)
Mag Drive 1800 1800-1650 = 150
GPHno good.
Are my calculations correct? Any
suggestions? Pulling my hair out
Cliff 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
David, you are not too far off on

your calculations as compared to
what I got. You are going to need a
serious return pump for that type of
head loss. I would suggest looking
into a external pump for that type of
flow. I would suggest a pump like
the ReeFlo Dart/Snapper. Then size
your plumbing lines accordingly. You
should need a 1.5 inch return line
for a pump that will handle more
flow even tho the head height will
reduce it. Based on the actual flow
that will get into the tank, a 1.5 inch
gravity feed drain line will be OK
http://www.reeflopumps.com/lowsp
eedhighflow.html
I would also suggest using a PVC
ball check valve and not a swing
check valve. Ball check valve are
less likely to fail when you need
them the most. Just make sure you
install it as close to your pump as
possible. You will loose about the
19 / 29
11/11/2014
same in GPH flow as compared to

most swing check valves.
Once you have everything set-up,
make sure you complete a few
power fail tests to make sure the
sump can handle the drain back
from the tank that you will get. You
can adjust the sump compartment
sizes base on those results if
required.
David 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Also using Trigger sump 36 inch

capacity of total water volume 34.5
and operating capacity of 23.4
What size return pump is my main
questionassuming I have all other
factors covered.
Maria 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Such a great and informative post.

Thanks for sharing and keep
posting.
David 2 YEARS AGO
(Reply)
Thanks Cliff!
Really appreciate your quick
response and suggestions.
Ill do another run thru on my calcs
based on this info.
I have been researching info for my
setup for some time now and I
stumbled into your presentation..
Such valuable information! I
wouldve been very disappointed at
my first approach.
My kids will be excited when I get
this up and running!
Thank you, Thank you.
Water boy,
David
Wayne Morris 1 YEAR AGO (Reply)

I see you have some excellent
information and charts for flow
rates. I would like to suggest the
use of sweep 90s and 45s
wherever possible in lieu of the tight
90s used by most people. The flow
rate restrictions of tight 90s can
add up very quickly in a gravity
system but this is also true with
pumps. These restrictions can
actually be measured with an amp
meter but your pump will run
quieter and cooler with fewer
restrictions. You will be pleasantly
rewarded for your efforts.
Jason 1 YEAR AGO
(Reply)
20 / 29
11/11/2014
I currently have a 90gal mixed reef

saltwater aquarium with a 29gal
sump. I would like to upgrade to a
larger sump and make it into a
refugium setup; when I do this I
would like to also upgrade some of
my plumbing, like adding a ball
check valve before my pump, some
pvc unions, and ball valves just to
make things neater etc. I was also
considering going to an external
pump as to eliminate some heat
from my system. I am familiar with
glueing pvc plumping and that
within a few minutes it is safe to
run water through but how
concerned should i be with my tank
inhabitants?? The last thing I want
to worry about is having some of
the pvc glue/cleaner running
through my system and wiping out
my tank!!
Also I notice on larger aquariums
most are not using power heads/
fans in their tank; is this because
they are running much more gph
flow than is necessary to get
proper flow through their return
lines that they do not need to
incorporate power heads/ fans? I
find it to be a much cleaner more
desirable look not having several
power heads/fans cluttering the
inside of the tank. I also only have
1- 3/4 return line that ends in a Y
with 2- 3 flare loc-line nozzles; so
I probably wouldnt be able to get a
tremendous amount of flow
upgrading my return pump since I
only have 1- 3/4 return line.. I
would probably need at least 1
more return line into my tank and
they would probably both need to
be at least 1 just assuming
here. If that were true that would
of course be impractical since I
would need to tear my system
apart to make changes like that :/
Thanks for your help!
Cliff 1 YEAR AGO
(Reply)
With some of the new low VOC

glues on the market today, you
should have less of a concern. Most
of them typically need around 8 to
24 hours to fully cure and be
perfectly safe for your set-up.
Follow the curing instructions listed
on the bottle of glue and you should
be fine.
The powerheads you see in others
aquariums do serve a pretty vital
purpose in a aquarium with live
rock. The below link explains that in
more detail.
http://www.reefaquarium.com/2012
/the-importance-of-water-flow-andmovement-2/
21 / 29
11/11/2014
A 1.5 inch return line, even with the

Y fitting ending in two line-lock
should be able to handle around
2,500 gph of flow with no problems
assuming you are talk about sch 40
PVC. That would be more flow than
you would ever want in a 90 gallon
display tank so there would be no
need to change your return line. I
would be more concerned about
having a drain line (or lines) to
handle your planned increase in
flow.
I would suggest around 1300 to
1400 gph of flow in your main tank
would be a good goal to aim for.
Start by planning you sump (what
you want in it, the size of the
compartments.. and so on). Next
plan your drain lines and return
lines. You two main goals here
would be to make sure your drain
line will handle more than your
planned flow, as well as identifying
all the elements of your return line
that will restrict your flow so you
can choose the correctly sized
return pump for your set up. You
would likely want at least one 1.5
inch gravity based drain line
(minimum)
I really do like external return
pumps, but they can take up a lot of
space if your sump is going under
your display tank in your stand. Let
me know if this answeres your
questions
Matt Bosley 1 YEAR AGO
(Reply)
Is that sch 40 and tiger flex hose

that you used in 7? I love it btw,
this is exactly what I am looking to
do. I am happy someone actually
posted an exact diagram on how to
do this. I had a great idea on how
to accomplish this, but now I have
a guide ha.
Thanks for the hard work posting
this all up.
Have a good one.
Cliff 1 YEAR AGO
(Reply)
Matt, the flexible tubing used in this

article is a form of white
PolyVinylChloride (PVC). You will
commonly find it on applications like
jetted hot tubs that need a flexible
PVC tube that will work with regular
sch 40 PVC fittings.
krishikaseo1 1 YEAR AGO
(Reply)
I Gone through your Website its

really amazing.
very good information on product i
22 / 29
11/11/2014
got know useful information thanks

for this.
Frank 12 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
Wow, this has to be one of the best

written pieces I have read on this
topic. Spot on, it was exactly what I
was looking for to help me size my
return pump.
Thanks!
Cliff 12 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
Thanks Frank, Im glad you found it

helpful
George 11 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
Hi Cliff, i have recently setup a

Marine tank with Sump and Durso
drain pipe in Weir. I am
experiencing some major issues
and cannot find a solution. You
seem to be the man with the
answers so thought I should run it
past you.
I have a 32mm drain going down
into my sump (hole on top), the
return is a 25mm pipe with a D&D
H2Ocean Aquarium Pond Flow
Pump FL 3000.
The issue i am having is that the
drain is struggling hugely and it
makes a huge amount of noise.
The weir water level drops and
rises every 10-15 seconds and
makes a loud draining / sucking
noise when that happens. How do I
stop this and allow the water to
flow smoothly? At the bottom of the
drain under the tank I have 2 90
degree elbow joints before the pipe
enters the water in the sump. The
pipe is about 1-2 inches under the
water level.
When i reduce the return pump
flow to an absolute minimum it
calms down and is fine but i feel
that level of water flow is not
enough.
Anything you can recommend?
Cliff 11 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
It sounds like you do not have have

the correct amount of air flow
getting into the standpipe, assuming
the drain (the way it currently is) is
handling the flow of the return
pump.
I would suggest getting a new cap
for it and drilling just on very very
small air hole using the smallest drill
bit you can use. Try it for a few
minutes and observe. If the duriso is
23 / 29
11/11/2014
not draining correctly, drill a second

hole with the same drill bit and
observe for a few minutes. Repeat
until it is working the
way you want it. This approach has
always worked for me.
Let me know how that works for
you, and please keep me posted on
your progress
krishikaseo1 10 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
I suffered your web site its very
superb.
very good data on product i got
apprehend helpful data thanks for
this.
PVC Ball Valves Manufacturer
oliver 4 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
Exellent article this has pointed me

in the right direction to design my
system
Cliff 4 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
Thanks Oliver, I am very glad to

read that you found this helpful
Eddie Garcia 3 MONTHS AGO (Reply)
I have an aquarium like this with,
this hole on the bottom that I would
like to plug and just go with regular
outside top Filters. Is there
something that u recommend using
or where can I find such plug or
what to do?
Cliff 3 MONTHS AGO
(Reply)
In the past, I have covered drilled

holes in aquariums by getting a
small peace of glass cut that is
about 1 inch wider than the hole and
using that almost as a patch. You
can secure it over top of the hole
using aquarium safe silicone. Just
make sure you attach the pc of glass
to the inside of the aquarium and
the pc of glass you use is as thick as
the glass used to build the
aquarium.
Darren 4 WEEKS AGO
(Reply)
cliff on a 55 gallon reef aquarium

you are saying to use a 1inch drain
correct seeing u want a 10x flow
rate
24 / 29
11/11/2014
Darren 4 WEEKS AGO
(Reply)
cliff i would want to use a 1inch

drain on a 55 gallon reef setup
using a 20 gallon sump correct
seein u want a 10x flow rate in a
reef right or wrong
Cliff 4 WEEKS AGO
(Reply)
Using that 10X rule of thumb is just

really a starting guideline. You will
most likely be fine, but here are a
few other things to consider before
assuming that
You may need to make adjustments
deepening on what/how you are
using your sump. If it is just for your
equipment and skimmer, and the
GPH of your skimmer is around 550
GPH, then it will work out fine for
you. If not, try to match the flow
through the sump with the GHP of
your skimmer as best as you can.
That will help you get the most out
of your skimmer. If you are using
your sump for a refugium, then you
would want to match the flow going
through the sump to better match
the requirements of the algae you
are growing in there. If you are
setting up a algae scrubber on your
return line, then you may want to
consider even more flow.
As for the pipe size, 1.25 or 1.5 inch
drain line would be a little better. 1
inch would work, but I always like
having a little extra to work with, in
case I want more flow later on.
Darren 4 WEEKS AGO
(Reply)
I plan on coming in threw a sock

filter putting a protein skimmer in
the front of the sump then flowing
into refugium threw a bubble trap
then out kinda new to all this an
just want to do it right thats why I
am asking so you would suggest
1.5 drain it wont be to much thanks
for the advice
Cliff 4 WEEKS AGO
(Reply)
What is the flow rate of your

skimmer ?
Darren 4 WEEKS AGO
(Reply)
Going to use Reef Octopus Classic

110 Space Saver Protein Skimmer
rated at 92gph thank you cliff just
want to be right like i said kinda
new to all this
25 / 29
11/11/2014
Darren 4 WEEKS AGO
(Reply)
or do i want to match this to my

return from what i understand you
want it slower threw the refugium
to build bacteria correct
Dylan 4 DAYS AGO
(Reply)
Cliff,
Article was awesome. I have had a
29 gal for about a year, but have
been only using a backpack filter. It
works, but it really doesnt keep the
tank clean. The sand gets covered
and the water less than ideal,
which has made me want a sump.
Do you have any recommendations
for a setup that can help keep my
tank clean (I hate going 2 feet
down in the water to clean the
sand), but isnt expensive (like
college budget and ingenuity).
Also, Its time for me to upgrade
my lighting. My set up now works
But I dropped it in the tank so its
running at about 30% health. My
tank is a weird size, 24 tall 24
wide 12 depth,, with a good size
anemone, some soft corals and a
few hard. Also I have a pair of
clowns, like 6 other small fish, and
shrimps and crabs. Can I get away
using this light?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/181275113
350?nav=SEARCH
If not, any recommendations
around the $100 range, I just
wanna see my corals grow!
Cliff 1 DAY AGO
(Reply)
Thanks Dylan
As far as your sump goes, make it
as big as you can. The below can
help with that as well
http://www.reefaquarium.com/2012
/some-sump-basics/
As you only have a 29 gallon tank, I
would suggest you consider finding
a new home for your anemone. All
of the anemones that will host clown
fish will get too big for your tank at
some point.
That light fixture will work fine for
your set-up
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AUTHOR
Cliff
I've been keeping tanks for
over 17 years now and have
kept many different set-ups
along the way. My wife and I
have really enjoyed everything we have learned
and are looking forward to many more years of
learning and enjoying this fascinating hobby along
with the rest of our pets.
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YOUR GUIDE TO A THRIVING REEF

When you set out to plumb an aquarium set-up

Note: you have to keep in mind, there may be