THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

AND

SHOES

BOOTS

CHAS.

CASE

Manufacturers

of
.

3*

FINEST

3"

EMC1-ISM

CHROME

GLACE

KIDS.

Also

;.
.

BOX

SON,

"

"

CALF,

A^5

WILLOW

CALF,
GLACE

CALF.

MANUFACTURE

THE

OF

SHOES

AND

BOOTS
A

BEING

TREATISE

MODERN
OF

ALL

OF

PROCESSES

THE

AND

MAKING

MANUFACTURING

FOOTGEAR

BY

Y.

F.
PRINCIPAL

OF

THE

CITY

WITH

AND

OVER

GUILDS

TWO

GOLDING
OF

INSTITUTE'S

LONDON

LEATHER

TRADES

ILLUSTRATIONS

HUNDRED

LONDON

CHAPMAN
IT,

HENRIETTA

HALL,

"

STREET,

COVENT

1902

A II

rights reserved

LIMITED

GARDEN,

W.C.

SCHOOL

GENERAL

PREFACE

THE

of

aim

produce

to

Author

the

classes,
their

supplement

to

thus

and

field

than

will

is

also

possible
it

is

To

work

It

for

treat

to

various

will

is to

be

be

the

as

room,
class-

cover

larger
It

circumstances.

handbook

teaching

for

matter

various

Author's

avail

interesting
that

noted

as

to

enabled

the

in

gained

been

attending
be

may

ordinary

to

and

"

cram

best

blocks, etc., for

held

use

and

the

structors
in-

some

tion
demonstra-

to

in

LONDON,
1902.

109953

has

care

minimize

this

are

and

advantages
the

country,

instructive.

and

thanks

the

throughout

book

book,

subjects

of

themselves

classes

"

use

The

lent

unable

the

by

under

students

they

instructor

has

treatise

classes.

those

offered

the

their

the

hoped,

by suggesting
in

to

knowledge

assist

serve,

that

so

this

writing
useful

text-book

technological

in

been

not

has

any

been

such

due

to

those

the

second

prepared
taken

to

tendency.
who

volume.

have

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

CONSTRUCTION

THE

I.

COMPOSITION

AND

OF

THE

FOOT.
PAGE

introduction

Historic

of

of

leg

os

"

Phalanges

"

Ligaments
of

Arches

foot

the

muscles

The

in

leg

Peroneus

of

pollicis

foot

Flexor

pollicis

brevis

Flexor

brevis

proprius
tertius

Flexor

pedis

versus

digitorum

Nerves

plantar

Three
Skin

Arteries
"

foot

of

digiti

pollicis

inter-ossei

Four

"

Trans-

"

inter-ossei
"

"

Walking

"

"

Four

Running

"

"

Me
-

anatomical

Observation,

"

"

digitorum

brevis
Adductor

Standing

"

"

chanics

Abductor

minimi

"

"

longus

"

Abductor

accessorius

"

"

Flexor

"

lumbricales

Soleus
"

digitorum
brevis

Flexor

digiti

pollicis

Peroneus

Plantaris

"

minimi

"

"

pollicis

"

"

Groups

"

Peroneus

Extensor

"

"

muscles

"

longus

"

-joint
ligament

"

Flexor

Muscles

of

Gastro-cnemius
"

posticus

Tibialis

Ankle
"

Extensor

"

digitorum

bones

Cuneiform

"

Joints

anticus

"

brevis

bone

"

Naming

"

longus

Extensor
"

muscles

Tibialis

The

tarsal

Calcaneo-scaphoid

"

"

"

longus

ligament

Plantar

"

The

Scaphoid

"

"

bones

bone
"

foot

the

of

Study
of

of

"

bone

bones

limbs

Composition

"

of

"

Metatarsal

bones

"

construction

"

Bones

Cuboid

calcis

lower

of

"

properties

the

"

The

of

bones

Bones

femur

and

knowledge

The

subject

"

Uses

"

of

Division

Foot

of

Importance

"

1
....

CHAPTER

CHARACTERISTICS,

Variety

in

feet

periods

theory
"

"

measured

Mode

Types

Feet

Taking

"

Military
of

position

"

mould

with

met

"

"

ETC.

National

different

at

Camper's

theory

"

position

according

"

usually

FEET,

Four-Square

Classification

Feet

OF

Characteristics

"

walking^

of

"

Footfalls

casts

TYPES

proportions

feet

"

Meyer's

"

CONTOURS,

Average

"

Adult

II.

to

"

ments
tempera-

difference

Plaster
"

in

sections
"

How

the

foot

may

be
35

viii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

MEASURING

THE

FOOT

III.

DRAFTS,

AND

IMPRESSIONS,

APPARATUS,

MEASUREMENTS.
PAGE

Measurements

Size-stick

""

draft

"

should

that

The

"

methods

system

Ellis's

"

of

of

Scott's

"

Plans

pedistat
"

ances
measuring Allowments
taking foot-measure"

podameter

Principlesof a scale
Quarter-inch system
Irregulargradations
"

scale

Standard

system

Alden's

"

French

"

measurements

Dutch

"

measurement

method

standard

Classed

"

American

"

Ninth

"

Heel-measures

"

of

heel-

The

"

elevations

and

measures"

measurements

"

"

operation

Various

"

American

girth locater
standard

taken

made

The

"

"

be

be

to
"

The

Tape measures
measurer
Foot-impressions Impression-box Measures

plan

or

"

standard

Improved

"

measurements

measurements

"

"

Irish

German

"

53

measurements
.

CHAPTER

SOLE-SHAPES

SECTIONS

LAST

"

IV.

LAST

"

productionof sole-shapes Sole proportions

The

LAST

AND

MAKING

"

"

Effect

of

FITTING.

raising

"Shapes to
constructingsole-shapes
follow
Meyer's principle
Camper's theory
Shapes upon
Hannibal's
Pass- May method
Obtaining proportions
system
Pointed
A
for other sizes
or
system of shape construction
sizes
and
toes
Grading
fittings Pass-May system of
square
grading fittings System of grading Cote grading machine
Structure of wood
Last sections
Spokes Seasoning wood
heel

of foot

Methods

"

of

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

Sorting into pairs Chopping Knifing Completing

Last-making machinery Pitch
Spring Drop, or dead

"

"

"

Classifyinglasts

"

Boot

lasts

Shoe

"

of work
"

"

"

Positions

Observations

on

"

"

Comb
lasts

"

"

Block

lasts
"

Slipper lasts

"

to

lasts

measure

lasts
"

"

Art

Sectional

Lasts

for various

"

"

"

waists
lasts

"

kinds

Last-measuring machine
81

Fitting-uplasts

V.

CHAPTER

UPPER

lasts

lasts

PATTERN-MAKING

GRADING.

AND

pattern-making Sections of pattern-making

Soule's
measuring
system of forme-cutting Marking and
Forme
Inclination
Pitch
allowances
Lasting over
system
from
and
profile Standard
pattern Constructing standard

and

science

of

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

"

CONTENTS.

forme

Observations

"

Vamps

Springing

"

Other

"

Side

patterns

Facings

"

system

Geometrical
how

and

"

system
system

work

Sewrounds

"

CHAPTER

Art

of

OK

Hides

Skins

clicking
"

skin

Modes

"

of

disposition
"

Calf

patent

kid

Russias

"

glove

qualities
"

Kip

"

Porpoise

"

qualities Machinery

"

skins

FITTING

Skiving

Fitting
"

Kangaroo

Turning-in

"

of

Modes

"

"

"

"

"

Check-springs
"

silks,cotton,

etc.

etc.

"

Mechanical

Sorting

"

boots

"

Direction

Pressers
of

"

motion

points" Special

"

pasting

Needles

"

Take-ups
"

"

"

Threads,

machines

243
.

INDEX

"

buttoned

without

of stitch
"

edges

Women's

"

cesses
pro-

Adhesives

"

of

Fitting

"

Formation
Tensions

"

preparatory
etc.

Treatment

"

laced

Threading-up

Grain,

CLOSING.

Other

"

beaders,

buttoned

Stitches

Shuttles, hooks,

"

OR

Ink

seams

Men's

"

"

Glove

"

204

"

Women's

"

boots

machines

Sewing
Feeds

machines

"

laced

Men's

hide

Alligators

"

MACHINING

fitting Rubbing

machines

Bagging

skins

kid

......

Button-piece

"

"

Calf

"

Satin

"

of
Shoe

VII.

AND

Skiving

"

skins

Sheep

"

butts

CHAPTER

UPPER

"

"

Modes

Seam-to-toe

calf

of

Systems

"

"

wax

Costing

"

"

or

skins

tightness

boots

Shoe

"

construction

of

and

Goat

"

hide

Russia

"

grain

hides

patterns,

LEATHERS.

Selection

"

Calf

cutting

Horse

"

in
.

Anatomical

Button

"

Bespoke

"

"

Stretchiness

"

The

Shifting systems

"

.119

UPPER

Kips

"

"

VI.

CUTTING

preparation

principles

Clicking

vamps

"

system

CLICKING,

ances
allow-

Designing

"

Errors

"

"

Quarter

"

Comparative

"

Adapted

Long

"

constructor

Grading

"

boots

Button

Derbies

"

"

Goloshes

"

underlays, lasting

One-fifteenth

"

system

remedied

sides

Pattern

"

vamps
"

Seams,

"

Shoes

"

spring

drafting

Elastic

"

patterns

pattern

One-sixteenth

"

to

Standard

"

patterns

Bespoke

elastic-side

How

Markers

"

Lining

"

"

"

standard

parts of

lace

"

of vamps

standards

Shoe

standard-cutting

on

289

MANUFACTURE

THE

OF

SHOES

AND

BOOTS

CHAPTER

CONSTRUCTION

THE

Historic

bear

evidence

years
a

The

old.

COMPOSITION

It is difficult to

"

that

the custom

earlier

protectionfor

to

B.C.

heights and
and

it is

of boots
scope

the

sole of

The

1500.

the

Romans

shapes,accordingto
shoes

Fig. 2

of

Fig. 1
an

no

foot.

are

ancients,but

is not

will

idea

shoe.

in

are

to

of

of

study

Anglo-Saxon

confined

supposed

to

an

thousand

Sandals

the status

give

in use,

doubt

shoes

wore

instructive

of the

of this work.

shoe, and

FOOT.

ascertain
precisely
Ancient writings

productionswere

interestingand
and

THE

is at least three

existence, of Egyptian origin,that

back

OF

first worn.
was
foot-gear
that some
protectionor covering was

it is certain

and

to

Introduction.

period when

the

AND

I.

date

various

the wearer,
the

history

within
of

Those

the

Roman

who
B

wish

THE

to

be

with

acquainted

consult

should

English periods

Button, entitled, Boots

The

the Foot, in the

shown

of

Importance

production

it will

of

Construction

the

be best

the foot

how

noted

be

Ancestors."

foot-gear,can

of modern

H.

W.

Mr.

by

our

of

Knowledge

by Fig. 3, where

of

earlier

in

worn

work

Shoes

and

"

shapes

various

the

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

may

through improper clothing. An acquaintance

with
the covering to be
enable
the object covered
would
suitably adapted to its requirements,and even, in the case

be

malformed

of fashionable
of

of the

anatomy

parts of the foot

parts separated

with

advantage,

be

may

seeking

from

one

extremities

the

other

with

proceeded
of

seeking
practically
*

of the

study

component

by dissection,in

shapes,relations,and

resemblances

the

foot is the

muscles, bones, tendons, ligaments,etc.

"

their

examine

pedal

studied

several

are

physiology, etc.
anatomy, osteology,

as

study

be

may

ing
design-

assist in the

productions. There

that

of science

The

to

shoes, would

and

comfortable

more

branches
such

boots

Published

and

animals

out

by

the
Messrs.

in

differences
of

different

arrangements
Chapman

order
The

connections.

various

(1) by

ways:
exist

that

"

in

the

species; (2) by
of

the

" Hall, Ltd,

foot

or

COMPOSITION

AND

CONSTRUCTION

(3) by examining

the

parts of

as

The

latter

useful
in

foot

the

the

to

supplemented
that

take

that

therefore

these

The
the

of

ideas

anatomy

foot,of form, and

This

for

made

muscular
bones
the

alone

from

of

will

which

tion
informa-

prevent

mistakes

in the

of

attitudes

and

movements.

of

shoes

for

used

and

to

be

different

cycling.

sometimes

apparent

proportionwhen
take

movements

The

feel

of

the

and

ternal
ex-

their

is also useful.

Division

lower

ideas

exact

an

bony parts

The

sought for in
proportion of the
be

should

and

This

of

certain

relation

amount

to

skeleton

made

place.

certain

The

the

foot.

changes

and

understood,

furnish

without

knowledge

being

have

causes

proportionscannot

be defined

the

to

be

form

of

The

be

parts, either

measurements,

therefore

changes

by bony prominences,

should

marks

take

of

kinds

tendinous.

or

the

walking, running, dancing, and

as

softer

to

modifications
intelligible

enable

to

is determined
the

by

the

are

various

such

purposes,
Form

the

that

of the various

is necessary

ought

parts of the foot.

shoemakers'

study

remain

movements.

advantage

of the

it

most

not

foot does

should

the

form.

the

be

to

usage,

of

its various

changes

it will be of

of information

its

during

external

its

the

position of

appear

as

knowledge

place during

determine

but,

repose

by

would

study

shoemaker

position of

influence

FOOT.

THE

composition and
they

of

form

OF

bony

of

the

F/l.4

"

of

structure

extremities

ligaments,

Subject.
will

arches,

the
be

dealt

mechanics,

with, also
muscles,

the

joints,

positions

of

THE

MANUFACTURE

and

standing

BOOTS

OF

the

and

walking,

SHOES.

AND

lessons

derived

be

to

therefrom.
The

and

Limbs

Lower

the

are

reference

by

seen

relativelyto

occupy

than

powerful

Fig.

to

the

the

The

of

65

inches

occupies 17'9 inches,

foot

inches.

10f6

about

foot

The

The
the

bones

apart,and

nearly touching each

Study

of the

tibia

the

other

thigh

descend

at the

made

an

found

the

(thigh-bone)
inches, the

-4

the

at

slant

they

bones,

hip

are

inwards,

knee.

is termed

Bones

viz. the

"

femur

(leg-bone)14

of the

they

as

number

Humphrey

of this the

; and

that

bones

skeletons, and

twenty-five European

be

height to

in

be

the

of

five metatarsal

tarsal and
femur, tibia,fibula,seven
and
fourteen
phalanges. Professor

portion
pro-

more

give proof

erect

average

The

larger and

are

to man.
position being natural
comprise each limb are twenty-nine

figure,

figurewill

whole

limbs, and

upper

of the

locomotion.

They

4.

half

lower

support and

of

means

they

the

occupy

Osteology.

Some

of

simplifythe description,such as anterior

described
when
so
viewing the bone
portion of a bone
when
from the front of the body ; posterior,
viewing from
The
the back.
long bones in the limbs act as axes, and
are
composed of two parts" the body, or shaft,and two
extremities,or epiphyses. The small bones in the foot are
somewhat
wedge-shaped.
used

terms

"

of

Uses

the

soft

or

the

which

upon

their

fleshy parts

gives them

that

and

Bones

Properties. The

of the

shape.
muscles

bones

"

form

limbs, and
in

They form,
act, and

framework

some

support
levers

cases,

give originto

the

various

dead
bone is examined
leg and foot. When
It is
it is a hard-looking,
whitish-yellow,tough substance.
compared with its strength. In its
lightin weight when
ing
living state it has a pinky colour, due to the blood circulat-

of the

motions

through
is cased
firm
takes

"

its minute

except when

covered

If this

membrane.

placein

channels.

that

The

by cartilage

membrane

part of the

exterior
"

is

of the bone
with

injured,local

bone, because

of its

thin,
death

being

attached

to the bone.

forms

smooth

act

to

as

the

of attachment

for

If

etc.

an

seen

finite
in-

of minute

FIBULA

it is through

and

little tunnels
is

bone

the

it is

TIBIA

vessels,
containing blood-

canals

these

cles,
mus-

under

filled with
number

built

that
up

nourished.

and

bones

The

at

the

of their

commencement

formation
of

means

be examined

be

PATELLA

piece of

microscope

to

fEMUR

(2)

(3) to provide

be

friction; and

lessen

bone

may

to

it covers;

bone

to

to

nutriment

convey

ligaments

affords

(1)

medium

also

that

is threefold

use

FOOT.

duces
re-

so

friction; so
its

THE

It

surface

bone, and

the

to

membrane

muscles, tendons, and

the

whereby

means

This

nutrition.

its

of

deprived

OF

COMPOSITION

AND

CONSTRUCTION

composed
cartilage,or gristle,

and

are

gradually made
bone by the earthy

are

into
salts

being

TARSUS

deposited

sels,
METATARSUS
through the blood-vesthereby imparting
PHALANGES
rigidityto the cartilage.
childhood

In
made
do

up

not

to bend

bones

of

parts which

unite
or

are

until

maturity

misshape them.

is

reached,

so

that

it is easy

MANUFACTURE

THE

OF

Composition of Bone.
that

remainder

the

children

salts

softer

are

and

persons,

so

of

brittle and
The

the

impart flexibility,

the

bone.

The

than

those

elastic

more

In

easily bent.

or

old

inorganiccompounds,

so

of

bones

of older

age

there

that

the

is

bones

liable to fracture.

Femur,

body,

and

constituents

inorganic
to

materials

bulk, the

of the

substances

hardness,

are

preponderance
are

animal

SHOES.

organic

or

one-third

of

up

AND

animal

about

made

The

earthy

The

"

are

being
salts.

earthy
and

bone

compose

BOOTS

and

bone

or

of the

it transmits
knees.

the

Fig.

body

sketch

in

largestbone

of the

weight

gives

the

thigh, is

of

the

to

front

the

view.
The
the

Two

different

fibula,are

the

side

inner

The

(Fig.6).

it to

not

behind

Tibialis

leg and

which

the Flexor

The

gives originto
longus digito-

posticus.

clasp-bone,is

situated

little behind

the

shin-bone, but
At

tibia

ankle

outer

plane.

transverse

neath
be-

than

forward
and

inner

of the

top front

expanded
astragalus.

the

with

end, more

the

same

anticus, and

fibula, or

joint,of

the

edge

the

joint

two

is

end

lower

the

easily felt

and

sharp

is

direction

Its

the

that

upper

outer

weight.

in

foot.

parallel.At

also,at the lower

so

thigh-bone

the

legs

outer

receives

well-formed

The

form

to

fibula ;

are

the

it is very
skin.

from

body

are
(tibise)

on

shin-bone, the larger of

carries

the

the

the

on

and

It is

of the

fibula

of the

in

tibia

the

"

weight

across

The

are

the

the

and

size,and

two, is triangularin section,and

portion

rum,

other

the

and

the

bones

the Tibialis

and

tibia,or

vertical, and

ti" 5-

in their

each

placed parallel to

tibia

Leg, the

the

of

Bones

slender

more

its upper
it forms

end
no

tibia.

part, and

It is

does

and

it is not

the

on

level
at

outer

long

as

as

sustain

not

with

side

the

its lower

kneeend

it

THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

of

the

tarsal

to

the

ground posteriorly.

bones, and

BOOTS

transmits

the

It also

affords

JEV.'^

CALCIS

of the

body

attachment

for

weight
the

os

SHOES.

AND

muscles

of the

At

upper

its

surface
the
CUBOID

of

.-SCAPHOID

TARSUS
a

it supports

It

has

negro

longer

than

heel

the

white

but

the

man;

apparent

lengthening is

calf,rather than

to

any

diminutive
of the

calcis. This

os

of

the

construction
fit

due

smallness

to the
PHALAN"ES

bone
the

gives origin to
Extensor

brevis

digitorum.

There

along its under surface for

muscles
longus pollicis. Other
are

"

Abductor

is

the

deep

ning
run-

groove

Flexor

of the

tendon

arising

this

from

digiti minimi,

pollicis,Abductor

is

thought

the

that

ward
for-

key-bone

sometimes
META

calf.

foot.

the

the

of

tendon

brevis

bone
Flexor

digitorum.

There

fixed

are

this

to

three

bone

strong ligaments,
to

arch

preserve
of

(Figs.8
The

the
and

of
foot.

is received

in

The
the

front

portion

cavity of

the

of

tibia

this
and

9).

huckle-

bone, is the
the

foot

lus,
Astraga-

or

of

the

the

stone
keyarch

important bone
fibula (Fig. 10).

CONSTRUCTION

The

surface

upper

than

behind, and

when

running

which

allows

is

elastic

inwards.
socket

the

ligament mainly supports

its

arch, and

the

goes

Cuboid

The

the

sole

of the

Peroneus
The
on

Scaphoid

the

inner

the

The

is

has

sought
The
bones

bones, but
inner

great
the

across

that

foot.

in

the

over

is

the

on

that
be

can

of

the

side,
It

inwards.

the

on

of

its under

foot

easilyfelt

front

side

inner

the

don
ten-

metatarsal

the

gives,on

turn

to the

in

are

by

met

placed

foot inwards.

the

number,

Bones, of which

second
should

foot,the bones

the

two

pollicis.

is

foot,and

there

together where

are

is

"

one

and

they join

from
be

strong, and

the

inner

side

speciallynoticed.

just described
from

front

form

the

to

tarsal

The

first,

supports
is

arch

back, and

the
than

longer

In the
an

long

five,are

they descend, separate slightly.

The

concavities

passes

brevis

bridges

turns

others, and

bone, is short

others,and

of the
two

toe.

that

the

close

are
as

for

taking measures.

Metatarsal

that

that

gives insertion

It

anteriorly are

muscles

two

after in

intended

form, and

in

boat

Bones, three

prominence

foot.

cuneiform

to

the

of

gives origin to

which

which
posticus,

larger than

insertion

is like

side of the

scaphoid,and

foot

or

Bone

Cuneiform

bones.

9).

side

outer

the Flexor

sheath

and

(Figs.8

groove.

Tibialis

of the
The

from

gives

should, down

muscle

It

and
pollicis

arises

longus

foot.

This

left.

foot,and

surface

long peroneal

slightly

gap

it

the

the

adductor

the

flat
on

head

side below

its under

on

backwards

scaphoid,and

the

than

more

front

convex

of the

foot becomes

groove

muscles, the Adductor

The

inner

is situated

the

by

of

tendon

obliquelyto

front

arch

yields

the

Bone

has

It

foot.
the

if it

and

spring;

In

in

oblique groove
longus pollicisto

Flexor

the

wider

an

situated, filling
up

is

ligament

is

formed

On

calcis.

os

FOOT.

dislocation

There

of the

THE

inch

an

prevents

tendon

into

OF

of

jumping.

and

the

by

this

the

received

below

is one-fifth

or

downwards

run

COMPOSITION

AND

skeleton
that

the

has

other

THE

io

MANUFACTURE

OF

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

The

Phalanges
three

arranged

of

the

to

two

the

leverage of

little

has

only

the

Under

value, unless

the

that

the

of

first metatarsal

are

bones

bones, which

work

the

individual
relation

their

number,

the

sesamoid

tendons

knowledge

in

exception of the
two, thereby giving greater

bones, termed

are

The

toe, with

first toe.

small

toes, fourteen

each

on

great toe, which

power

the

toe.

great

will

bones

be

increase

studied

also

of

be
as

whole.
Joints.

The

"

tipped

are

the

to

with

Between

membrane.

This
of

quantity
is

or

of

the

Its

leg.

extended, raised

and

scarcely any

when

the

foot
is

movement

does

is at

being narrower

behind

united

by

the

of

directlyforwards, but
feet are
fully extended
when
the

flexed
ankles

heels, and
will
is

they

the

an

and

important

lasts for
shoes.

foot

various

when

the

tibia, no
the

when

the

flexed, they will

to

bear

-height heels, and

in

to

each

of

diverge.

mind

such

tiptoe,

on

changed
toe

when

other, and

stands

great

is not

that

so

work

and

tibia

each

to

person

fibula

opening

The

position be

extended,
if

the

astragalus

the

opens

slightly outwards,
If

is bent

fully flexed,

foot is

incline

lateral

tibia and

The

the

fact,

between

to the

owing

In

foot

place

ligament.

If the

fact

place.

to

the

and

strong hinge-joint,

in front.

decline.

separate.

approach

this

they

are

be flexed

foot to

takes

huckle-bone
the

exercises

so

is

take

ligament,and

larger front

fibula,and

only

movement

than

health

In

astragalus
the

movement

tibia,and

small

surfaces, which

the

right angles

slight lateral

synovial

other.

by

permitted, and

found

containing

the

is to allow

use

lateral

the

the

each

joints

at

synovia.

depressed. It

or

astragalus and

are

bag

enable

to

Ankle-joint is formed

The

bones

sufficient

glide easilyover

to

of

meet

cartilagefixed firmly

cartilagesis

kind

that

of

layer

the

is

bones

lubricatingfluid,termed

only

smooth,

of the

or
gristle,

bone.

there

surfaces

in

the
foot
This

-designing
as

running

second

the

and

joint in

calcis.

os

is moved

astragalusand

on

limit

bands

are

the

of

arch

and

mutual

foot

tage
advan-

strength

each

in

shape largelyto

its

owes

being
work

often

joint. They

developing

the

of

office

tissue ; their

muscles, being of

the

preserving
The

other.

depressed

side and

flexible,tough, inextensible,

of

movements

alternately with
in

the

cuboid, and

scaphoid and

fibrous
silvery-looking,

somewhat

foot

between

joint is

the inner

on

the

when

side.

outer

Ligaments

to

raised

astragalus

the

play

third

the

calcis,and

os

the foot to be

the

into

FOOT,

THE

is between

brought

side.

to

OF

foot

the

It is

side

from

allows

COMPOSITION

AND

CONSTRUCTION

their aid.
The

Plantar

Ligament

metatarsal, and
has

and

the
to

it

say

is often

been

the

connects

supposed

be

to

the

be

the

in

muscles

taining
maincorrect

more

arch, A,

the

forming

roof,

of

means

arch, although it would

assists

of

tie-beam

to the

likened

the

calcis with

os

Fig. 8.
The

of

ligament

It

foot.

the

is

is not

in

allowing

weight is
it forces

borne
the

The

boots
cause

them

foot"

are

the

and

the

are

are

the

turned

astragalus lowers, and

turned

of

usage

of

in

of

vice

the
versa

os

the

ligaments

will
"flat

and

its share

adds

use

the

When

is lowered,

relaxed, so

calcis is

if the

weight

proper
step. Im-

the

out, the scaphoid bone

to

sists
con-

position,thus

(see B, Fig. 8).

foot

elasticity

little when

ankle"

"weak

tissue

usefulness

its normal

ligament

ligament uniting it

There
osseus

the

This

elongationof

of the foot

to

deteriorate, and

exhibited.

elastic

after it is relieved

it,and

preventing

important

quality

to
provisions,elasticity

other

toes

the

the

upon

to

of

ligaments,and its
astragalusto descend

key-stone again

giving,among

another

other

to

common

is

composed

supports the huckle-bone.

and

to

Scaphoid Ligament

Calcaneo-

of the

toes

foot

inwards.
are

other

(Fig. 9)

ligaments

between

the

in the

foot,such

astragalusand

as

the

the interos

calcis,

CONSTRUCTION

and

AND

those

between
that

ligament
front

binds

strain

on

ligament

Arches

arches,

of

the

Foot

metatarsal

of the

ground

the

how

margin

The

arch

is

of

constant

the

pressure

that intermittent

The

form

two

The

transverse.

TUNNEL

~~GS

by standingon

with

flatter the

is than

is

CALCIS

feet will

wet

It

out-

p/g

JQ

inside.

the

complete

in

each

calcaneo-cuboid

the

by

supported

pillarformed

the

foot, and

by

posterior

.....

descends
the

the

an__

/-/

pillarslopesgraduball

the

of

SECTION

(Fig.12).
therefore

foot

inner

the

(Fig. 9).

mainly

the

the

long
height and

straight to

to

ball

the

out-

ground, whereas

foot

in

the

heel-bone

ally

other

towards

is

ligament.

terior

the

the

much

side

almost

of

from

foot

flat surface

the

spread

in the

Its

impression made

pier or

the

that

bones

distance

lessens

of

show

at

and

from

bones

foot.

the

side,and

bone

wasting,but

The

"

greatest on

are

side

behind

sheet

dense

very

in

curve

or

to the heads

front, being situated

span

heel

mind

causes

extends

calcis behind

the

axis

in

longitudinal and

one

longitudinal arch
of

the

to

borne

fascia is

the

to

bend

13

annular

; also the

the

to

FOOT.

THE

promotes growth.

pressure

os

plantar

fixed

be

bones

tendons

fastened

It should

foot.

the

the

sole, and

OF

cuneiform

The

tissue

the

over

or

the

of the foot.

of fibrous

COMPOSITION

The

solid

OF

TRANSVERSE

ARCH

arch
behind

elastic

and

or

springy

in

front.
The
and
is

transverse

is most
across

the

marked

arch
over

cuneiform

(Fig.11)
the
and

extends

instep"
cuboid

from

that

bones.

side to

side,

is,its convexity
It forms

half

THE

14

dome

side.

in each

V -\

be

the

its

bearing

the inner

greatest height on
down

Fig.

12.

Fig.

13.

of the

arches, is

ligaments and

the

bones

are

body; and,secondjy,
the

about

attains

the

the
be

binding

up

shoes,

to

be

well

here

to

the

or

are

not

best

methods

will

the

of stiff shanks

making

It

seen

stiff leather

in

coverings,

foot.

ments,
liga-

it will

ankle

to

said

been

respecting
that

From

weight.

has

what

body

crease
greater in-

of

of fourteen,

age

when

of the

put

sufficientlydeveloped
bear the weight of
/to
the

arch

most

the child be

"

early,before

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

engendered first,in infancy,if

its feet too

"

OF

foot,with

Flat foot,or

likelyto
upon

MANUFACTURE

restore

consider

the

lated
calcuthe
some

16

THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

Abductors

Adductors

that

muscles

"

BOOTS

"

SHOES.

AND

draw

from.

draw

to.

bend

limbs.

"

Flexors

"

"

Extensors

straightenlimbs.

"

"

in

Groups

the

Legs.

In

the

legs there

opposed

to

each

other

"

muscles

that

it is the

balancing of
and

standing
muscles

are

not

walking to
being under

and

it is

of muscular
the

leg

foot
in

only

actions
be

be

foot

often

smaller

are

when

beneath

seen

than

of the

muscles
of

give

the

the

those

foot,while

in the
are

and

Tibialis

2. Extensor
3.

in

to

the

not

change

muscles

they
in

the

their action
their

in

the

is

functions.

foot

ments
move-

itself

OF

THE

LEG.

(Fig.15) ; B. The peroneal group

group
17) ; and C. The posteriorgroup (Fig.18).
A.

1.

muscles

powerful

more

anterior

The

(Figs.16

The

situated

tion
combina-

of tension

leg,and

the

decided,
un-

gracefulmotions.

MUSCLES
A.

do

gracefulin

those

and

the

power

state

are

The

tendons

skin.

leg perform

delicate

more

in

the

direct, consequently they

The

movements

transmit

These

action, and

infancy, these

In

is attained.

strong, and

of

groups

foot that enable

long practicethat

movement

form, i.e. stretch,and

may

the

performed.

of tendons.

means

in their

upon

control,the

after

large and

are

by

these

are

Extensor

4. Peroneus

B.

The

Anterior

Group.

anticus.

proprius pollicis.
longus digitorum.
tertius.

The

Peroneal

5. Peroneus

longus.

6. Peroneus

brevis.

Group.

CONSTRUCTION

AND

COMPOSITION

C. The

OF

Posterior

7.

Gastro-cnemius,

8.

Plantaris.

THE

FOOT.

17

Group.

(insideand outside),

9. Soleus.
10.

Tibialis

11.

Flexor

posticus.
longus digitorum.

12.

Flexor

proprius pollicis.

1. The
the

from

of

the

which

is

foot

and

first metatarsal.
the

also turns
raises

the

the

it is
in front

of

the

leg;

it

inwards, and

During

traction
con-

ankle

clearlydefined

(Fig.19).
2.

arises

The

Extensor

from

under

side

of

the

tendon

is inserted

phalanx
to raise

tendon

surface

in

the

of the
the

that

great

of the
anticus

be

may

the

Its action

It has

seen

second

is

strong

the foot is extended

when

longus digitorum arises

tibia,and
It

foot,and

and

the

(Fig. 20).

Extensor

(1).

ligament)

of

toe.

toe.

outer

Tibialis

the

of the

base

great

is forced up
3. The

of

anticus
the

the annular

the upper

pollicis

Tibialis

(passingon

anticus, beneath

along

proprius
the

descends

(1) and

toe

first cuneiform

externally,marking

seen

of the

fibula, and

-Its action

border.

inside

of"

arises

ment,
liga-

of the

toe

great

front

It

inner

surface

front

muscle.

replaced

to the

in the

upper

the

and

annular

is inserted

towards

cord

the

and

draw

to

it is

inclines

side,passingbeneath

flexor

tibia

inwards, where

tendon

is

anticus

outside

descends

by

Tibialis

lies to

descends

the

by

outer

tendon

from

side of the
that

the

side
out-

Tibialis

divides

but

THE

MANUFACTURE

together,and

remains
After

it has

passed

separates and
into

the

last

on

During

the

action

16

FIG
4. The

the annular

Tibialis

the

also

it is visible

13 3

Peroneus

tertius

tendon

it goes

beneath

in

fifth metatarsal.

5. The

tendon
inserted

are

(Fig.21). Its action, in

anticus
(1),is to flex the

to

extend

on

the

the

toes

surface

upper

the

on

of the

foot.
foot.

FIG17.

Extensor

of the

ligament.

divided

divisions

four

16.

of the

border

annular

16

tendon

the

the

ligament,the

The

SHOES.

AND

of the toes

phalanx

leg,and

BOOTS

beneath

passes

spreads out.

conjunction with
foot

OF

is sometimes

classed

as

the

fifth

longus digitorum (3),with which

the annular
ligament to be inserted
Its

action

is to

raise

the

outer

foot.

Peroneus

longus arises from

the

head

of the

fibula,

and

the

through
is similar
as

bow

The

unites

also

ankle

tendons

together

on

pass

heel, and

the

along

and

longus

(Peroneus

brevis)separate, and

inserted

are

in

The

of the fifth metatarsal.

the base
action
raise

Peroneus

the

with

its tendon

outside

the

is
the

Tibialis

border, turning the

outer

It is the

anticus

are

developed

run,

and

(1).

who

walk,

others

give

that

calves

Gastro-cnemius.

muscles

are

leg.

femur, and

with
The

action

is to

the

leg,and

by

the

heel

Their

they

extend
the

one

the other

tendon

the

are

name,

outside,and

the inside of the

the

There

"

this

bearing
the

on

is from

muscles

in athletes.

7. The

situated

These

with

largelydeveloped

of the

reverse

those

in

dance, and

observable

and

foot

the

extend

to

toe outwards.

on

(6), and

and

previous muscle,

the

longus (5). They

two

Its action

arises

brevis

Peroneus

underneath

the

of

play during dancing.

6.

the

sole

brought

is

It

heel-bone,
the

across

19

creasing
in-

arch

the

across

the

Irevis

Peroneus

the

hollow.

the
into

of

that

to

FOOT.

THE

first metatarsal.

in the

is inserted

bone,

cuboid

the

along

ankle

outer

in

groove

the foot, and

serves

the

behind

runs

OF

COMPOSITION

AND

CONSTRUCTION

origin

are

nected
con-

Achilles.
the

tendon

foot

on

to

raise

on

the

of the foot.

F/G./8
The

8.

outside
with

Plantaris

of the

the

thin

femur.

outside

the
tendon

rises
It

(7).

(7), and

sometimes

short

very

Gastro-cnemius

Gastro-cnemii
that

is

It

muscle

is situated

gives place

unites

united

with

to

the

tween
be-

long

tendon

THE

20

MANUFACTURE

Achilles

and

OF

with

sometimes

BOOTS

the

fatty

AND

SHOES.

tissue

of

the

os

calcis.
9. The

Soleus

muscle

is

FIG
cnemii

(7). It

Gastro-cnemii

with

the

that

is the

very

arises from

(7)

and

raise the
10.

to

heel

The

the

and

Tibialis

os

fibula,and
the

tendon

body.

The

not

change

form

in the

cord-like, and

FIG.

It is affixed

to

Gastro-

the

19.

the tibia and

strongest tendon

tough

beneath

placed

does

combines

Acldlles,
tendon
in

is

bulk.

20.

calcis,and

depressthe

is the

means

afforded

to

toes.

posticusarises,from

the tibia and

fibula,

CONSTRUCTION

and

descends, by

ankle, and
bend

inner

the

turn

The

branches

that

the
12.

The

tibia.

the

In the

inserted

are

and

toes

scaphoid.

longus digitorum

from

to

the

in
them

cause

to

the

and

passes

the

groove

the

of

the
the

to

end

great toe,
the

ball

at the

runs

back

sole it divides
Its

toss.

of the

into

four
is to

action

grip in walking.

OUTER

toe. Its action

the

is to

at

is to raise the
on

action

through

astragalus
great

inside

the

fibula,

side

outer

Its

21

Flexor

longus pollicishas

originin

FOOT.

THE

tendon, behind

the

in

OF

foot inwards.

Flexor

ankle

bend

of

means

is inserted

and
11.

COMPOSITION

AND

ANKLE

body

of
to

the

press

of the

toe

the

ground, and
therebyto raise the

to

ankle.

outer

It

be

must

understood
when

that

the
of

spoken

is

muscle
as

under

ing
pass-

the

nular
an-

ligament,or
round
the

the

tendon

The

transmits

which

It is thus

described

Muscles
to

angular

structure.

its

for

of the

of form

bony

Foot.

that

the

"

structure

in

distinctlythe

muscles, so

21.

brief

muscular

force

foot

its

is meant.

brevity.

They

and, being situated

describe

FIG.

ankle,

are

masses,

The

; the

owes

muscles

usually

but

round
little

it is difficult to

precise

action

descriptionof

of
the

peculiarities

the

off the

developed,
isolate and
individual

several

muscles

22

THE

MANUFACTURE

will

serve

our

in the

sole

OF

purpose.

of the

There

foot,and

two

are

on

four

muscles

layers of

the

part of the

upper

bones.
the

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

After

the

skin

of

plantar region and

tissue

fatty

has

been

fibrous tissue known

fascia

of

layer

of

the

as

is

If this be taken
first

moved,
re-

expansion

an

plantar

the

visible.
the

away
muscles

exposed, consistingof

is

ductor
Ab-

Flexor
pollicis(14),
brevis

and
digitorum (18),

the

Abductor

'minimi

digiti(16) (Fig.22).
second

layer,situated

the
the

The
der
un-

first,consists

tendons

of

of the Flexors

longus digitorum (11)and

Proprius
On

the

pollicis (12).

foot, the

tendon

Perpneus

layer

acces-

complete

the

muscles

acces.sorms(20)and

lumbricales
named

third

(19)

(Fig. 23).

plantar layer
of

Tibialis
Flexor

the

must

The
sists
con-

tendon

brevis

the Adductor

pollicis(15),
(21),
2wllicis

brevis

minimi

the

Flexor

the

foot, the Transversus

Peroneus

of

posticus(10),the

digiti (17),and, running across

pedis (22). The sheath of the

the

To

(20).

Flexor

be

of

the Flexor

sorius

the

of the

longus (5)passes

beneath

the

side

outer

longus (5),and

MANUFACTURE

THE

24

draw

They
will

called

be

"line

the

to

the

"central

consists

anticus

(1),Extensor
digitorum (3),and
of the Extensor
the

of

consists

the

of the

on

from

inner

the

"

of the

of four

inter-ossei

muscular

central

; B.

23A.

15.

Flexor

16.

Abductor

Dorsal

(23A), fixed

toes, and

fourth
line

"

on

XY,

and

one

Group.
First

Second

(4).

Plantar

layer.

layer.

Group.

pollicis.

minimi

second

The

to line XY.

pollicis.
brevis

four

FOOT.

THE

digitorum.

B.
Abductor

under

external, central).
(internal,

dorsal

Inter-ossei

14.

OF

Plantar

brevis

Extensor

action

drawing

toe

A.
13.

muscles

into

toes.

second, third, and

side of second

Dorsal

longus

The

(3), divide

the

on

Tibialis

the

(4).

extension

MUSCLES
A.

of

peroneus

the

line," or

digitorum (13),after passing

layer (Fig. 25)

draw

treatise

this

layer (Fig.26)

tendons

the

Tertius

the

aid in the

side

action

first

longus digitorum

tendons, and

in

proprius pollicis
(2),Extensor

Irevis

Extensor

outer

XY, which

The

SHOES.

AND

muscular

action."

surface

BOOTS

line

central

of muscular

dorsal

OF

digiti.

17. Flexor

brevis

minimi

18.

Flexor

brevis

digitorum.

19.

digiti.

Internal

first

Internal

third

layer.

External

first

External

third

layer.
layer.
layer.

Central

first

Lumbricales.

Central

second

layer.

20.

Flexor

Central

second

layer.

21.

Adductor

Central

third

layer.

22.

Transversus

Central

third

layer.

23.

Inter-ossei

13.

The

accessorius.

pollicis.
pedis.

brevis

Extensor

outer

side

under

the

four

tendons

of

the

digitorum

layer.

arises

in the

upper

heel-bone, and, broadening out, it passes

Extensor
that

Fourth

plantar (3).

layer.

longus digitorum,when
go

forward

and

are

it divides

inserted

into

in the bases

CONSTRUCTION

AND

of the first
the toes

phalanges.

and

the

to counteract

Abductor

The

the

region of
of the

Its action

FOOT.

THE

OF

is to aid the extension

obliquity of

of

tendency

os

pollicisrises

calcis,and

on

is inserted

Its action

great toe.

is to

the

from

the

central

that

forms

the

toes

15.

of

row

first

of
the

in

abduct

posterior
first phalanx
big toe away

inner

the
the

FIG.

great

25

longus digitorum.

Extensor
14.

COMPOSITION

line

the

be

Flexor

the

brought
brevis

tarsus, and

foot

the

of

centre

would

The

of

to

body.

closer

the

By

imaginary
this

action

line
the

together.
from

polliciscomes
is

26.

inserted

to

the

the
base

second
of

the

phalanx.

16.

The

Abductor

minimi

digit! arises from

the

outside

26

THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

DORSAL

BOOTS

VIEW

AND

SHOES.

CONSTRUCTION

of the
the

calcis,and

os

first

17. The

from

away
Flexor

of

to

little toe.
middle

the

the

the

in the

first

is inserted

little toe.

Its action

is to flex the little toe.

the

and

in

of the

phalanx

digitorum, from

brevis

Flexor

origin

base

bone, and

The

draw

is to

line of the foot,

metatarsal

18.

27

side of

external

Its action

and

longus

FOOT.

THE

digiti has

minimi

brevis

Peroneus

the

OF

forwards

goes

of the

phalanx

the little toe

sheath

COMPOSITION

AND

the

the
fifth

of the

heel-bone

plantar fascia,draws

down

the

toes, and

in the

second

is inserted
of the

phalanges

four toes.
19. The
affixed

Four

to the

four

toes.

draw

the

Lumbricales

inner

Their
in

toes

are

side

of the

action

is to

to

the

inner

side of the foot.

The

20.

extends
the

accessorius

Flexor

the

from

In contraction
the

to

fourth

third, and

second,

toes.

calcis

os

it counteracts

obliquityof

longus digitorum,

Flexor

the

its

hence

name.

21.

arises

The

from

Peroneus
and

the

fourth

toe

Its action

inserted

adduct,
the

"

The
in
or

first
the

on

is to

line of the
22.

and

The

the

the
third

phalanx
outer

adduct,

or

is
of

side.

draw, the great toe

to the

central

foot.
is
the foot, and
pedis goes across
Its office is to
the phalanx of the great toe.

Transversus

draw, the

line of muscular

23.

of

metatarsals, and

in the

great

pollicis

sheath

longus

inserted
the

Adductor

Three

big toe

to

the

line of the

foot

termed

action."

Plantar

inter-ossei

are

situated

between

MANUFACTURE

THE

28

the

toes

The

23A.

on

the

the

draw

third

and

of

the

either

second
to the

Nerves.
"

those

the

other

from

muscles

in

give

motor

and

the

internal

and

nerves

and

of the

Arteries,

foot

etc.

situated

on

the

consists

of

two

foot

of two

are

The
dermis

kinds

; the

of

dermis,

the

skin

oily

heel

and

and

and

the

toes

the

leg.
those

are

The

plantar
of

the

follow

the

veins

Sweat

skin

of

fibrous

glands

of

on

that

the

keep

however,

are,

pads

and

tissue,

skin

glands

found

are

epidermis
The

nerves.

sebaceous

no

soft.
the

pillarsof
and
little,

foot

from

foot

the

skin, is made

true

or

thus

the
forms

the

ground

of the

arch; the

the

side

outer
a

firm

slightlylonger and wider.

Walking is performed
leg

plantar

supply

nerves

deep. They

"

especially.
standing, the weight

both
a

ankle.

fat,at the

toes

When

sinks

the

supply

The

layers

two

possesses

Under

numerous.

of

blood-vessels

foot

the

and

the

to

arteries.

interposedwith
sole

of

of the

outside.

surface

"

consists

Skin

and

inside

come

nerves

plantar surfaces.

and

nerves

muscles.

side of the

outer

arteries

chief

dorsal
"

the

as

the

external

that

tibial

toe

branches, and

side

into

nerves,

anterior

well

as

of

kinds

tibial

inner

divides

The

The

"

of the

direction

The

then

the

giving branches

the

to

of

respectively.

impressions to

plantar

sole of the foot.

dorsum

to

down

side

either

axis

two

anterior

toes,

central

the

on

sensory

former

the

posterior tibial

The

with

that

passing

the

provided with
skin

nerve,

from

side of the foot

the

sciatic

the

of the

from

away

of the

surface

dorsal

inter -ossei

two

supply

sort

toes

away

inner

or

posteriortibial

The

The

foot is

The

that

fourth

draw

toe
outer

"

the

side of the bones

outer

action.

line of muscular

the

to

toes.

Inter-ossei,on

Four

situated

foot,are

outer

draw

side, and

inner

the

on

line the three

central

and

the

of

bones

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

and

as

body

inner

touches

nearly
basis

follows:

bending

the

side

of

is transferred
of
the

the

arch

ground.

support, becoming

(1) by liftingone
knee, which

throws

20-

PLANTAR

VIEW

THE

30

MANUFACTURE

the

weight

the

ball

on

the

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

foot; (2) by raisingthe

one

of the

throwing

OF

weight

and

toe

great

bending

the

leg first

extended.

the

to

on

the

*\

foot

of

'

"

from

the

are

The

Mechanics

of

of the

the

muscles

the classification
of

the

foot

the

Foot.

for

kind

short

active

The

"

periods

The

bones

Levers

determined

fulcrum,

the

by

relative

the

central

or

levers,

three

of

are

passive

the

are

the

in

agents

muscles, and

the

are

power.

being
the

power,

weight

kinds,

positions

pivot,

and

the

moved.

1. The

power

the

"

2. The

that

force

work

the

performs

of

i.e.the muscles.

or
lifting
moving,

by

the

bones, ligaments,joints,etc.

and

feet

is

ground together.

mechanism
the

both

the

on

quick walking, only,

other

(Fig-. 28).

WALKING

very

walking

the

or

Running
of

on

During

isalways
ground

FIG. 28.

leg

body forward,

action

one

'"

other

weight

the

"

resistance

offered

lifted

weight

or

the power.
3.

the

The

fulcrum

"

or

point

centre

of

movement

of

first order

being

the

lever.
There

when

the

are

three

fulcrum

of

orders
is in

the

levers, the

centre

and

1,2

~7T~

~jT~

~~S

is

end

of

lever, the

the
in

being

the

fulcrum, the

the

other
A

wheel

the

power

end

at

carried

this
the

one

centre,
at

the

(Y, Fig. 29).

illus-

wheelbarrow

trates

load

is when

fulcrum

FIG.29.

see-saw

the

and

2~

order

second

weight
|

side

illustration.

good

The

either

on

power

(X, Fig. 29).

is

".

lever, the weight

of the

class

"

the

weight, and

the

that

surprising,therefore,

not

of

varying theories

the

to

as

the

foot,is the

parts of the
cause

cisely
pre-

size of

and

contour

formed

of
difficulty

The

the

effects upon

stating the

It is

joints.

the

opinions are

many

movements.

various

respecting the

obliquity of

the

muscles, and

various

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

32

of

form

best

of

shoe, advocates

particular form

usually

considering the

foot

in

of

motions

Applicable

tions,
Observa-

series

one

only.

practicalvalue

of
in

foot,

the

clothing

32.

FIG.

be

will

made

that

will

of the foot.
impress the value of the study of the structure
The non-symmetrical appearance
of the foot should be
the inner
noted
straight,
especially
edge being practically
"

and

the

outer

different

in

construction
and

complement
is in

The
and

Lasts

should
of

functions

be

the

toes

action, moves

body
the

inside.
as

There

that

dotted

are

that

position,the

at

growth

toes

are

of

strength.

when

in

end

to

phalanges
be

foot

hardly

called

base

This

is

The
or

into

propel
in this

is thicker

toe

thicker

the

on

inwards,
great toe moves
plantar view (p.29). By

the

the

compel

bone, etc.,and

flexed

two

the last should

the

in

solid

are

concave.

suddenly

only

line in the

constructing shoes

remembered

forms

the heel is raised

space

side is

inner

making

be

great toe, when

others, so
the

the

When

should

The

onwards.

by

seen

of the

foot

lefts.

outwards, and

When

the

activity,it is somewhat
but rightsand
straights,"

"

toe, giving the impression of

than

its fellow.

foot

in

not

selectinglasts.

of the

function, but

counterpart of

when

sides

two

positionof rest, the edge

straight,but

the

curved.

one

toe

of the

bunions

action, and

are

to

remain

phalanx
formed.

the

in

this

is filled

The

joints of

by

smaller
the

toes

CONSTRUCTION

COMPOSITION

AND

FOOT.

THE

OF

33

prominences while grippingthe

present a series of uplifted
of these functions should be the
preservation
consideration of the producerof boots and shoes.
The
muscles
when
in exercise promote growth, and
ployed,
properly developed,they are taut when not activelyemthereby keeping the bones in place: pressure
and the
prevents the developmentof muscular
activity,
formed
muscles
do not brace up the bones,hence
partially
the jointssink.
The joint-action
of the opposing muscles
should be considered,
and
with their varietyof movements
alteration in shape.
Free
play to the joints is a necessityto the fullest
"ankle-bone"
prominences vary
usage of the foot. The
in positionon
oppositesides of the foot; the outer bone
being lower down and further back than the inner. This
The
has an important bearing on the making of shoes.
the purpose
of affordingproarches of the foot serve
tection

ground.

The

and nerves
;
pressure to the muscles, vessels,
weighted, must
provision for elongationwhen

from
the

and
not

be overlooked

in

foot-gear.The

foot,the inner side being higher

equalat

both

than

outside,and lasts that

the

sides do not

sides of the

arch is not

transverse

are

equallyarched

both

on

requirementsof the foot (compare

13). Fastenings to shoes should not
but the strain should preferably
instep,

conform

to the

Figs.12 and
tightenacross the
be from instepto heel.
foot is thinner

than

skin in the arch

The

waist of the

or

balls of the toes and

at the

the

heel,

to the waist, and the thicker skin

giving greaterelasticity
to the parts
where pressure is experiencedgivesprotection
into contact with the ground. The sole is richly
that come
of badly laid socks,
providedwith nerves, and projections

rivets,or other
cause

heels

of much
on

boots

in the
irregularities

pain to

the

The

wearer.

Some

are

inside of shoes

of them

many.
of the loweringof the heel of foot to

necessary

to

exercise

the

muscles

of
springto tip-toe
; the resting

effects of
are

the

gain the

that

the foot

are

give
on

an

placing

prevention
impetus so

the

force to

incline
D

?"v
OF

THE

UNIVERSITY

the

plane,

THE

34

and

MANUFACTURE

of

the

the

and
tilt

the

bones

of

occur

if
of

the

the

To

together
the

any

the

shorter

Fig.
of

that

are

that

alteration

action,
most

foot

are

are

velopment.
de-

proper

said

heel

the

measured

be

that

impeded

as

of

the

on

actual

should

and

shape
foot-gear

should

takes
should

increased.

the

conform
it

blood,

and

that

the

work,
it

to

vary

be

as

the

that

effective.
the

causes

their

proper
of

the

requirements
borne

muscular

during

go

for

and

less

uppers

the

to

given

movements

also

place

foot

be

prevents

give

should

that

their

stiff

and

note

of

makes

with

to

should

play

structure

foot

the
sides

perform

muscles

and

essential

inner

to

shoe

or

is
of

fullest

the

general,
in

the

and

healthy

the

foot

the

of

deterioration

and

14),

leg

it

circulation

with

the

their

length

of

muscles

raise

to

should

centre

their

adopted

cannot

same

of

the

interference

foot

the
the

to

ting
disloca-

this

but

under
and

be

chapter

the

(see

functions

action.

the

this

tendency

will

supposed

foot.

the

Cramping

heel

instep

thus

foot,

attaining

the

also

well

the

convex

is

the

of

towards

more

characteristic

from

higher

It

transmitted,

The

increases
to

of

placed

weight

conclude

owing

be

although

the

exercise

its

give

forward

go

arch

SHOES.

AND

foot.

the

of

prevented

foot,

of

shorter

heel

to

production

pillar

the

size-stick,

length

the

that

BOOTS

tendency

of

otherwise

not

and

posterior

gravity

boot

appearance

the

not

it

giving

thereby

toe

OF

motions

in

mind

ments,
move-

of

the

IT.

CHAPTER

CHARACTERISTICS,

in

Variety
form

and

three

Feet.

distinct

Even

in

with

of the

feet ;

they

difference

done

various
stature

in

classed,and

many

useful

are

in

knowledge
Average

statures

total
are

their

of the

profileof
and

way,

foot to be

5 ft

are

be

stature

18'9

9 in.

rule to

points

All

the

to

feet ;

of these

in

This

ratio

the

giving

of

the

whole

by

the

methods
a

better

clothed.
birth

"

and

the

contrasted.

various

helpful

it is

so

single individual.

bear

measurement.

Proportions. At

in. male,

19'3

the

by comparing

plantar outline; and by

extremities

And

salient

and

of

number

quite

by tabulating

"

lower

their

compared

ways

parts of the

feet of

the two

difference

body.

it is

From

characteristics.

infinite

of the

in

seventy-

some

are

its

an

in detail, and

be

may

and

resemblance
be

differ

are

form

external

alike, but

great diversity.

having

there

ETC.

FEET,

are

there

man,

race

between

Feet, however,

may

each

races,

exists

of

types

single race

variations

find

there

measurement

OF

feet

Structurally all

"

fundamental

two

TYPES

CONTOURS,

the

in. female.

male, and

height

average

The

mature

average

ft. 5 in. female.

represented by 67, then

the

is

various

If the

parts

proportioned
relatively
"

Male.

Femur

18

Tibia

14

Female.

18
...

14
...

Foot
end

from

lower

of second

edge

of tibia to \

toe
...

The

proportion

of

the

various

segments

of

the

lower

MANUFACTURE

THE

36

extremities

basis,and

for the male

it arrives
the

certain

before

and

at

and

at

the

parts do

situated

four

increases

and

three

ground

and

half times,

increase

what

thighs develop first,next

and

lastlythe

going

the

in

also short

it

at

of the

three

they

"

adult.

The

foot,double
of age

years
four

times,

those

"

greater rate than

leg during its growth
foot

of the

In

part of

upper

growing,
the legs,

from
in the

of the

line
the

width

to the

infancy the

inner

of their

to the

length,due

In

"

margin

line of the

middle

direction

comparison

in

Periods.

foot.

length,and

of the toes.

undeveloped

the

tarsal

growth, and
cared
and

proportionate.
bones
if the

be classed

heel

develop during
foot has been

for,it reaches
can

The

its
in its

the

well
of

becomes

foot

of the
The
the

They

metatarsal

During growth, the apparent thickness above

heel-bones
and as
the metatarsals
disappears,
progress
more

from

length three

the

bones.

foot is

infancy.

at

the

rate

same

height

was

Different

toes, the

outwards

heel is small
are

at

lie forward

toes

The

feet.

Characteristics

feet

puberty

"

quarter times, and

the

at

age

the

instance, the

is broad

these

in childhood

sexes

increased

at

half times, the

a

between

times, their originallength. The

and

over

have

increase

; for

those

from

the sole of the

they

trunk

distant

more

two

reaches

person

five

not

the

near

from

of twelve

age

twenty about

various

those

the

"

characteristics

extremities,measured

length

"

"

constantly altering.

at

the

on

"

period ;

the

height.

cent, of the

different

between
and

same,

percentage

"

are

adult

proportions are

to take

commence

infant

the

at

in this matter

nearly the

heightin

4"

the

SHOES.

AND

20 per

proportionsin

epochs

their

be

would

sex

15

when

lower

total

Foot

relations

the

to the

23

it has

are

given

Thigh (seatto knee)

Leg (knee to ankle)
Ankle
to ground

The

two

be

may

BOOTS

OF

the
the

thicker,and

succeeding stages
exercised

and

of

properly

perfectionat maturity,
appropriatetype.
beauty

CHARACTERISTICS,
Adult

The

is

Foot, it should

straight from
the

across

further
is not

so

provided
done

heel to

joints than

back.

The

wide

boots

for in lasts.

right,it

will

ab, and

other

prevent

Fig. 33
be

usually

of the

from

that

is

is

foot

the

shoe, and

from

When

the

heel

of the

instep
foot

FtG.tt
the

ankle

thicker.

well-arched
in

the

the

the

heel-bone, and

dependent upon
foot

shoe

thingsare

generally present

are

the

"feather,"

the

well-developedcalf,a

step

so

the

in

is wider

side,and

large number

If

forward

too

the

shoes.

usually short,and

The

or

this must

at

compressingthe toes.
of a foot is high,the
is

in

It is not

joint in

and

to fit at

going

ab

cd, and

as

the inside

made

inch

37

properly formed,

inner

the

on

one

line

unsightly wrinkles
of

toe

FEET.

OF

noted, when

be

English-made goods,hence

in

near

TYPES

CONTOURS,

position of

foot,and
foot.

same

variations
the

The

in

in

leg

graceful

jection
pro-

ankles, are

relation

the

to

imaginary vertical line at the back of the

in girth,the instep and
ankle
a joint is small
leg. When
are
usually greater in proportion to the joint-girth.A foot
the

on

an

in sole

narrow

other

hand,

circumference
a

between

of the waist

of

feet that

be thick

may

foot may

have

and

difference

and

area

be slim

spreading

and

narroiv

foot varies
the

full

above, and,

measure

less in

or

and

sole-area

slim

so

foot.

considerably in

there
The

different

is

arch

feet,

girthhave a differently
shaped arch. A person'soccupationwill cause
a difference
in the development of the feet.
of Walking has a considerable
The Mode
bearing on the
character, contour, and development of the foot. There
are
opinions as to the correct way of walking and
many
standing.
not

be

measure

that

Boots

correct

to

walk

important bearing on

may
in.
the

in

same

be

correct

The

walk

shape

of the

stand

to
of

boot

person

in

may

has

an

required,and

MANUFACTURE

THE

38

of

some

the

medical

sole

that

shapes

do

men

BOOTS

OF

not

have

in

prove

SHOES.

AND

advocated

been

practice

be

to

by

the

best

adapted for walking.

*

Camper's Theory
the

parallelto
and

line

drawn

that

the

heel, and

others.
end

of

The

second

with

be

should

toe

be
The

stones.

as

that

construction,and
are

those

arising
from

line drawn

the

from

broad

heel

of

centre

middle

of

the
*

"

"

the

ball, or

great
On

Why

the

toe

Best

the

the

Shoe

longer

as

possible,and

only

be

foot,

The

than

sole
the
the

OF

on

"

Pinches," by

H.

the

turn

out

in

healthy feet
breadth.

the sole

"

under

STAMDWG

pass

its whole
by

sustain

to

and

joint, should

of Shoe,"

in

alike in mechanical

are

of the heel

moderate

should

toes

differences

through
Form

of the

is

varying length

the middle

naturally

are

centre

should

POSITION

the

the

toe

that all feet

was

toes

raised,to prevent coming into

height,and placed well under

centre
of gravityof the body.
in walking or standing.
Meyer's Theory \

the

through

sole should

the

contact

that

was

Dr.

length.

Camper.

Meyer,

under

M.D.

the
This

THE

40

angle of
the

10"

other
is

arch

edge

The

greatest(see

Footfalls

life, and

method

muscles

base

also

aaaa,

the

two

is shown

placing the feet

in Fig. 35, but it

functions

of the

of

style of walking

is

develop the

to

powers

of

Fig. 36,
line of

where

the

It would

be

the

play

free

an

action

The

the

to

military

lated
calcunot
and
tiring,
foot (Fig.34). Another

of the

the

37

F1Q

foot

to

the

ground
is

way

to

walk,

big toe,

and

is illustrated

parallelto

direction taken

the

easy
of

walking

is very

Meyer's line,"M,

body, or

periods

placing the
"

two

when

adopted.

36

FIG

the

difficult

free

give
be

by

rather

ground

would

that

one

mode

the

if it could

foot

sexes.

on

20" with

or

different

at

walking vary

in

body,

support afforded
Fig. 35).

of

when

SHOES.

standing four-squarethe
in a
are
position to act

When

foot.

the

line of the

central

firm, the

most

feet is the

the

of the

rods," and

"

as

of

with

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

in

if the

the

the

in

central

progression,CC.
foot-gearallowed

heels

of

the

shoe

CHARACTERISTICS,

were

exceedingly low.

made

parallelto

is

If the
line of

the

exhibited, as

is

walking

the

parallelto

TYPES

CONTOURS,
inner

central

line

CC.

The

FEET.

of the

41

feet

are

in

variation

Fig. 37, where

edges

direction,another
in

seen

OF

line LL

the

practical

most

MLIN.

fttrSHQWQ

Sa^HQW/HE

F1Q

WALKING

method
in

of

Fig.38,

where

parallel to

each

This

allows

(aaaa),and
from

and

buttress

be
This

line to

hips

the

male

in
sex.

on

to this

most
"

line

adopt

women,

of

the

to

of

either

of

outside
soles

effectual to
of muscular

direction

side

have

preserve

shown

are

of

walking.

maintained

foot abduct

advantage

jointsis
that

"

to be

of the

full

is shown

ground

action

support

line,while

the

shapes

shortness

the

and

muscles

with

the

on

lines of muscular

four-squarebasis

projectionsof

the foot.

The

"

other

the

practice to
middle

the

adduct

it accords

foot to fall

allowing the

taken

been
the

action," XY,

of the

further,

found

in

functions
is the

designing sole shapes.

the legs in children,and
the

of

best

in

make

their walk

width

different to

that

of
of

42

MANUFACTURE

THE

Types of
are

due

Feet.

to

"

BOOTS

OF

The

number

sorts

many

of

of feet that
such

causes,

it is the

etc., and
occupation,locality,

SHOES.

AND

as

are

met

with

habits, climate,

combination

of these

FIG. 39.

in different

degreesthat give

and
sole-area,

41, and

42).

dispositionof

so

many

measurement

distinctions in

profile,

(seeFigs. 39, 40,

As

the

body

form

of

moderate

activity,and
well

to

developed

plumpness,

fie

fairly prominent, and

the other
but

languid

hand,

with
blood

soft

person
of

fondness

The

heel

common

with

exercise
feet

possesses

43

that

is round

and
are

and

40.

the

developed,although there
On

symmetrical.

and

it is connected.

which

good circulation,

FEET.

OF

foot has characteristics in

general rule,the

with

TYPES

CONTOURS,

CHARACTERISTICS,

arch

are

no

person

with

tissues

and

circulation, and

of

the

waist

is

duly

specialbony prominences.
ness,
a
body of general roundmuscles, flabby flesh, a

dilatory in action,has

feet

44

THE

that

are

MANUFACTURE

OF

Another

frame, with

strong firm

features,and

flesh that

of person

other

and

is hard

the

bones

The

firm,

the

foot.

with

The

Scotch.

the

the

feet of

relation
that

foot

well-

large

large in

It is

and

of this

feet

heel-measurement

instep-girthnot

portions of

among

person

muscles, prominent

joint,the

toe

proportion, and
the

flabby flesh,with a
has a strong bony

usually long,bony, arched,

are

developed big

variety of

SHOES.

AND

soft and
short, full in fitting,

slightarch.

type

BOOTS

in
to

is prevalent
who

person

is

delicately
shaped, with a small frame and thin small
taperingmuscles, are usually thin and finelyshaped,giving
with
evidence
This form of foot,if found
of sprightliness.
a
weakly constitution, is liable to a tendency to flat foot,
which
if neglected becomes
very painful.
Classification

primary forms
these

names

characteristics

according to Temperaments.

There

"

three

are

motive, vital,and mental

temperament
being applied according to the predominant
of

of

"

"

or mentality
physicalconstitution,vitality,

respectively.
The

is the

motive

result

of climate

habits, and

and

is

In the Scotch
and
Swiss
mountaineers.
prevalentamong
Its characteristics
it is stronglymarked.
are
large bones,
hard
muscles
that are
developed, prominent joints,and an
than average
height. The feet are
angular figure of more
long and bony, with largetoe joints; the heel-measurement
is

girth.
The
breadth

and

not

plump
the feet
The

slight;

vital
of

the

the

feet

are

The

motive.

the

than

in the

It is the

type

muscles

action
thin

are

than
and

has

usual

same

well

made

in
up

and

strength.

has

muscles

greater

and

bones

limbs

the

type of

women,

are

and

arched.

framework

small

and

motive, but

small, symmetrical,and

mental

be

must

medium,

is above

tapering.

are

nearly the

are

correctlyshaped.

conspicuousas

and

rapid

be

instep
of foot

class

stature

body

so

for

joints and

for this

Boots

to measure,

are

the

large,and

that

is comparatively

compact, designed rather

The

nicely shaped.

structure

is

fine,and

Various

combinations

usually classed
descriptionof

by combining
the

three

of the

the

the

They

vital-motive, vital-mental

mental-vital.

The

second

found

the

Americans,

45

first

name

used

41

greater development.

motive-mental

among

two

FEET.

types exist,and are

that give a
names

the
prevailing qualities,

FIG.

denoting

OF

TYPES

CONTOURS,

CHARACTERISTICS,

of these

motive-vital,

are

mental-motive,

combinations

Scotch, North

are

largely

Irish, Welsh,

46

North

Germans.

and
cities,

the foot

and

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

The
is

mental-motive

long, thin,

rather

AND

is found

flat,and

SHOES.

in

large
in

narrow

fitting.

FIG.

The

Feet

1. Slim.

usually
"

met

smart

12

arranged as under
symmetrically shaped foot,

with

may

be

"

with

48

THE

of the
over

leg and

the

knee

to

hold

cast

undue

held

is

easily used

to

last thread

is

The
back

each

along

plasterof
until

of

under

the

Paris

threads

are

drawn

making

divided

the

is

that
for

it in

take

inside

6".

firmly

and

taking

are

the

foot.

the

pint and

may
set.

heel

at

Superfine

half of water

carefullyplaced

to disturb

not

in

and

the

bottom

Sections.

of

pasted

take

removed

and

the Mould.

as

"

on

is

the

and

It consists
bottom

pieces

of wood

smooth
The

the

whole

The

12"

the

hold

of the

to

middle
the

top

inside

possible.

as

box

to

of

; the

round

running
sides

four

is to

preferablymade

screws.

groove

and

piecesof greased cork, about

placedin positionon

better

put togetherbeing 5J"

four

be

box.

top, middle,

with

is

made

proportion.

box

The

"

the

to be

experimental studies

position(see Fig.43).
should

lasts have

put togetherwith

is made

screwed

in

is then

properlyconstructed

when

measurement

are

mould

out

for

cast

"

three

of

to when

separate portions

of the box
To

they

of

nearly

foot,from

the

back

that

so

plaster when

The

resort

snugly fit the middle,

section

the

the

something

are

wood

The

knee, and

the
at

foot

plasteris nearly set, the

carefully,so as to cut through it,
When

to

Mould

hard

of three

left

the

of

put together,ready for producing

of taking a mould, and
quick method

stages in

Taking
from

ends

edge

mould.

useful

sometimes

method

to

Another

and

foot

This

feet

leg
thread

taken

without

be piled up
plasteris setting,it must
placing
disthickness
without
foot,keeping it of even
threads.

to

waist

being

the

the

cast.

the

consistency,and

being

foot is

dish.

the

to about

creamy

foot, care

the

from

of the

is added

strings. While
round

the

separate the
placed round

side

thick

the

string is brought

carefully laid,

under
of

SHOES.

whose

across

thread.

laid,and

of the

is

line

sides

AND

person

end

passed

other

is next

the

direct

BOOTS

end

upper

other

both

the

foot

be

the

up

with

The

given to

"

carried

the

and

greased

"

OF

foot.

tension, in

thread
and

MANUFACTURE

bottom

foot
an

to

are

inch
catch

well
in

greased

thickness,

the heel

and

CHARACTERISTICS,
of the

tread
The

CONTOURS,

foot

middle

that

section

put in the

TYPES

is to be

is

placed

position that

49

(A, A, A, Fig. 43).

taken

the foot

bottom, and

the

on

FEET.

OF

it is desired

If

mould.

to

an

TOP

MIDDLE

BOTTOM

upright

pose

is wanted

vertical

with

the

FIG.

43

the

front

ground,and

from

the corks
pressing on
impression by allowingthe
"

to be

the

plaster to

into the box

sets,build
the arch

it well

of
the

smoothly

as

(Fig. 44).
plaster has

weight

thus

person

leg ^should

be

be relieved

may

spoilingthe
who

is

plantar
operated upon

the

mould

the

foot.

it

as

set

the
about

"

foot

section

"

and
of the

taken

When

with

pour
As

foot,

top

the

to

this

accomplished,the
contact

edge

of the

and

on

When

thus

harden.

the

of cream,

possible

the

remove

of

thickness

under

fifteen minutes

or

the

level

of the waist

inside

allow

the

to

rounding

ten

"

the

seated.

Mix

the

the

of

whole
wet

together with

44

FIG

is
of the

plasterto
the foot and

surfaces

that

be used

in the

the

will

come

next

in

tion,
opera-

top section of the box,

E

THE

50

be

must

foot

in

the

Put

greased.

the

position on
the front

over

either

side

of
the

that

exist

may

plasterwell
of the

of

top

mould

should

and

placed back
completed, some
back

To

make

inside,and
into

the
the

is set and

in the

of the box
the

the

plastershould

more

and

in the

space

mould

foot, and

carefully done,

mould

when

set

is

exact

an

of the
and

mixed

greased

well

thin, and

rather

that
the

re-greased
mould

poured

to set.

plasteris mixed,

some

of the

last section

foot

sections
be

allowed

cast, the

the

and

edges

and

third

on

irregularities

the

and

pour

second

this

When

hardened, any

with

box

mix

edge

straightan

as

removed

be

and

mixing

first

possible.

as

greased,to prevent the

adhering. This done,

mould

in the

the

than

the

place

greased plaster,and

foot,making

ankle

box, and

the

on

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

hardened

the

the

portion of

by

OF

thicker
plasterslightly

some

it

MANUFACTURE

on

the

poured

occupied
originally

was

removed,

mould

counterpart

of

the

foot

and, if
will

be

obtained.
The

Foot

extending

it

be

may
on

the

in

measured

three

leg correspondingto

ways:
the

first,by

positionof

FIG. 45
rest A

be

one

(Fig.45),when

the

line from

quarter of the whole

body

the
;

knee

to the toes

will

secondly,by measuring

CHARACTERISTICS,

CONTOURS,

TYPES

OF

FEET.

51

it

MANUFACTURE

THE

52

as

shoemaker

thirdly,

by

it

The
kind

the

with

of

foot,

the
if

the

ankle,

The

the

line

the

lines

so

from

the
the

instep

line

CD.
OE

leg,

of

and

and

of

Fig.

approach

they

the

the

of

height

In

of

each

other

various

feet

are

foot

in

of

position
equality

in

with

high

becomes

OEFB

heel-line

the

with

35"

the

and

parallelogram

the

of

of

ankle

arched

an

foot

proportions

the

that

of

the

back

angle

paring
com-

height
to

the

at

an

noted

arched.

more

angles

types

the

as

ankle
The

the

index
that

is

be

relation

line

of

the

as

the

by

means

in

leg

the

ground

such

makes

39)

(Fig.
should

OF

foot

square.

AB

and

C,

determine

the

afford

imaginary

an

It

with

the

of

and,

by

largely

characteristics,

position

measured

foot.

of

the

45)

body.

will

recorded,

(Fig.

illustrated

will

made

angle

principal

and

the

of
foot

position

the

in

and

size-stick

height

heel-measure

measuring-tape,

as

in

it

putting

comparing

with

does,

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

the

illustrations

"

39

35"

42"

39"

40

45"

38"

42"

41

47"

43"

42"

42

46"

38"

55"

"

"

"

In

Fig.

46

is

illustrated

the

types

of

the

soles

of

feet.

III.

CHAPTER

MEASURING

THE

MEASUREMENTS.

AND

MEASUREMENTS
either

of
make

to

who

requires

for

first

give
of

cause

such

will

it

record
of

location

the

be

method

is

its

information

enables

The

uniform
;

and

and

last

should

prevail

should

always

be

made

makers,

and

by

both,

When

taking
of

comparison
desirable,

not

and

and,

either
or

it

may

apparatus

that

the
be

would

minute
be

or

any

and

liability
end

should

the

"

of

test

foot, that

without

that

is
be

vided
pro-

the

measuring

foot
"

allowances

measurer

the

or

neither.

etc., for

statistics,

the

desirable

by

measurements,
foot

made

thirdly,

and

pass,

The

of

of

various

accurate

apparatus

system

same

also

preventing

with

this

to

the

position

makers.

be

to

measuring

the

secondly,

the

essential

correct

the

combined

reproduction
first

the

characteristics

the

of

of

the

to

thereby

but

must

to

have

possible

the

be

may

system

may

as

part

simplicity,

faithful

error.

the

on

definite

to

it

for

lengths,

that

adaptable

girth-measurements,

misunderstanding
a

hands

and

or

average

adopted

The

practicably

suited

arranging

shape

measurement.

customer

be

to

girths

indicating

purposes,

of

method

record

two

order

and

The

automatically

as

the

to

studying

whose

through

should

for

for

peculiarity

only

not

required

that

persons

for

provision

the

shoes

relations.

must

purpose

must

be

data

and

proportions

and

taken

are

individual

some

ascertaining

foot

the

boots

APPARATUS,

IMPRESSIONS,

DRAFTS,

FOOT:

the

compilation
is

accuracy
tedious

to

or

more

employ

in

with

used

be

ordinary bespoke may

for

the measurements

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

54

advantage.
of

consists

piece

the

to take

Size-Stick,used

The

wood

hard

of

of

measurements

boxwood

usually

"

length,
"

suitably shaped, and

about 18 in. in length.
At

is fixed

end

one

an

upright, forming

the

beginning

another

stick, and
similar
made

stick, which

giving

be

may

the shortest
L

front, as
varieties

adjusted

length through

Fig. 47.

in

In

detail

exist,those having
the

engraved

to the

of

brass

to

object to
the

body

slide
be

on

the

measured,

from

back

construction

insertion

is

upright

47

HQ

of the

to

several
which

upon

is

divisions

(thereby preventing shrinkage to

or
appreciableextent),and that have a screw
spring
any
(enabling the movable
required),
upright to be fixed when

31

41

"

/a

ti\

16

iiriihi

ih

hi i \,I

48

being
they

among
be

may

gives an

the best ; while

folded

illustration

are

of

among
a

those
the

standard

with

made

jointsso

least desirable.

that

Fig. 48

size-stick,with

English

with
markings. The uprightsare also marked
divisions of inches, enablingheels and
springs of lasts to
the upper
be measured.
The English sizes marked
on
edge
between
the uprightsare one-third
of an inch,and, strangely,
notation
the fixed upright. The
at 4J in. from
commence
and

French

"

numbering

of the

sizes

continues

in

"

regular

order

up

the

the

when

less than
of

body

the

In

would

in

in. ;

Feet

that
other

in many

flat,and

some

Any part

is

feet should

be made

of

whose

person
is

body

should

account

transmitted

bony

"fittingup

will

more

to

the

or

they

give

to the

Draft

and
the

of

single

of both

have

as

"

of the
in

"

allowances

walking

feet

that

than

one

growing or
developing

are

permit

to

"

tion.
considera-

last,as thejfeet

whether

may

maker
or

foot of

as

who

their

growth,

Plan

at least

or

made.

the net

of

the

and

outside

if corns,
exact

arch

situation

can

heavy

alone

person.

the

sees

notifythe

It is

foot

must

the

foot,should

conditions

upon

however,
preferable,

or

it should

be

whether
other

taken, upon

be

points

foot, the

joints;

bunions,

greater degree,

to

measurements.

of the

of the

to

require different treatment,

usually

"

be

will

positionor location of
If properlytaken
indicated.
inside

measurer.

measurement

foot,it expands

the

idea

feet

age,

made

fleshyfoot

the allowances

which

the

will affect the

person

expand
lighter. The

the measurer,

make

the

of the foot should

rest

or

be treated

should

and

different

cramping. If the occupation of the person measured

carrying heavy weights,it should be taken into
when
measuring,because when extra weight has to

involves

the

by

occupationmust

all allowances

have

without

and

corresponding

cases.

requires attention;

mature,

be

and

selection

heavy

be noted

and

in such

instep,

arched, for instance, and

are

common,

weight,age,
The weight of

in the

made

quite

in. ;

width, -"%in.

between

difference

foot

female

length and girth are

thingsmust
proportionwith

individual

The

in

respects. Some
of

out

The

weight

full

be, length," in. ; joint,

would

these

recorded.

be

be alike

may

the

adult

average

heel, J in. ; bottom

in. ;

instep,J

with

width, J in.

child's foot

SHOES.

AND

length,-Jin, ; joint,\

be,

J in. ; heel,J in, ; bottom

differences

BOOTS

is measured

foot

it.

on

differences

these

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

56

measured

afford

relative

the maker

square

malformation

be

the

draft

on

be

must

an

positionof

tapering or

indicated

which

the

toes

present,
or

plan.

IMPRESSIONS.

To

take

the

the

flat surface, such

of the

weight

measured, placed on
held

under

To

the

indicate

convenient, and

as

should

Unless

instep,etc.

plan loses

the

lead

the

of
of

the

section

To

the

or

to locate

pencil marks
the

such

as

positionof joints,

ensure

held
the

rightly
upline
out-

of

in

shown

used, where

Fig.
A

is

FIG

50.

triangular-

two

shaped pieces of
On

be

foot, a simple piece

be

may

to

major portion

apparatus, as

50,

foot,

49

made

tracing

the

the

about

person

thin

indicated, and

pencil being
when

the

floor,and

this is done,

usefulness.

its

of

be

(Fig.49),be

BB'

AA,

of

the

be

splitlead pencil*
round
quite close to the edge of
arch the pencil is slanted as far
marked.
the waist
Any special

FIG

prominence

as

the paper.

carried

verticallyis

the foot.

body

size should

of suitable

draft,a sheet of paper

placed upon
with

57

wood

face, B, of the

fastened

together at right angles.

larger piece of wood, is affixed two

permit a lead pencil to pass to the corner

that adjoins the
of the apparatus. The edge of the wood
the edge of the foot,and
point of the pencilis placednear
the outline is traced
it is carried round
as
perpendicularly
metal

to

grooves

the
*

to

margin.
pencil that

separate pencil is

is used

for compasses

answers

used
well

for

the

waist.

for this purpose.

MANUFACTURE

THE

58

It will
49

be

observed

is

there

that

in addition

impression of

an

character

the

greatest pressure
and

differences

They

be

may

that

prepared
carbon

variations

will

dark

To

that

give

produce

and

soak

it in

the

on

The

second

soaking
acid

and

soaked
allowed
faced

to

than

of

aniline
upon

dye
which

clear

give
two

^ized),

or

it may

be

kept

for reference

used

be
the

foot

good impressions

impression-papermay

and

the

be made

by

may

paper

when

Judson's

which

Another

sheet

sheets

they

at the

be

sheet

dyes

answer

time

same

made

that

consists

is stretched
is
The
of

evenly

of

sheets
A

white

paper

plan
be

or

more

abroad

frame
thin

hinged

for this purpose.

are

(Fig.49).

coated

is

be

to

are

is used

frame

well

likewise

will

transfers, and

be

must

of iron and

the

membrane

used.

of tannic

strong solution

top,when, if the
impression will result.

be made

the

is laid
*

glazed

two

placed on

This
*

of

drying

nearly dry.

to

size, upon

indiarubber.

combination

give

taking foot-impressions.It
suitable

will

will

may

Impression-Box

permanent

contact

filter-paperand

clean

This

tracingshould

An

of

foot

moist,

or

of

used, chemically

is not

strong solution of chloride

dry. When
using these

the

and

damp
draft

that

filter-paperin

allowing

in

plan

the

by dissolvinganiline dye in
adding about an equal quantity

some

kind

white

be

maker.

to the

sent

close

may

sheet,or sheets,of white

draining and

top.

sheet

foot.

made

then

between

be

the

of

colour.

paper

of which

reversed, one
other

and

After

glycerine.

placed

any

solution

spiritsof wine,
by placing it

distinct

may

chemical

the first kind, take

(or
filtering-paper

for

the

sole-area

impressionson

positions of

impressions, by

investigating

when

ways.

sheets

two

or

their

that

so

elements

of

for many

do

tracing-paper;

prepared

of the

in several

produced

Fig.

on

ground.

useful
specially

Foot-Impressions are

outline

the

to

parts of the foot that give

the

to the

SHOES.

AND

foot,which, if taken, shows

the

of the sole and

the

the

BOOTS

OF

to

made

sheet
with
to

take

of
an

box
the

MEASURING

side of the rubber

inked

When

is removed

frame

the

59

frame

is lowered
with

in contact

being

surface

the upper

placedon

the foot

and

place,the

in

sheet

impression. The

FOOT.

THE

the

paper

"

of the membrane.

impression of

an

the

"

the

sole-area

of the foot is found.

The

should

that

Measures

taken

be

of

length,girth

are

joints,instep,heel,ankle, and leg,with the height of ankle

For long work
these (excepting
and leg from the ground.
the

and

ankle)
The

across

joints.

indicated

must

be

taken

round

If the

latter be

the

on

as

the foot

is taken

the

over

the

heel, across
taken

annular

throat

the

up

the

round

The

bend

backward

leg,but

of the

nearly

as

taken

"ankle"

the

above

is

at

the

bones.

point

foot.

of the

It should

not

the

possibleover
Fig. 51, H).

as

and
smallest

The

under

ment
keel-measure-

The

(Fig.51, 1).
extreme

or

instep-measure is

top of the instep and

ligament (Fig. 21, AL,

ankle-measure

adopted, their positions

draft.

of the foot's arch

the centre

the

required,such

are

outside

be

measurements

height of calf,knee, etc.

is taken
round
the foot either straight
joint-girth
from
the inside joints,
or
diagonally over the inside

calf,knee

and

other

The

part of the

leg

is taken

leg-measure

at

height required,and its height noted from the

the
round
ground. The
calf-girth is taken
leg at its
greatest breadth, and is usually situated from the ground
the distance equal to the heel-girth.
In any case
it should
extreme

be noted
The
and

how

after
*

placed
draft

the

moving
allow

The

the
the

length
the

the

heel, as

positionsor

length

of the

the

with

foot

is usually seated,

person

taken

in

as

then
in

the

with

foot,it

Or, better

toes

raised

illustration.

locations to be marked.
a

size-stick
the

upon

Fig. 51.
the

the

by

body being

and

shown

The

"

been

ground

first taken,

measured

draft-plan.

has
of

weight

upon
is

the

is next

it is taken.

Operation of Measuring.

without
is

far up

still,

without
This
The

will

joint

tape, snugly passing round

the

weight

of the

body

is shown

the

by

the

60

foot.

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

To

secure

the

positionon

girththe finger should

the

on

inner

be

side of the

FIG

this and
be

under

the

carefullytaken,

foot

is in

used

hollow
and

BOOTS

the

SHOES.

AND

taking the
slightbony prominence

instep

to find

foot ; the

for

tape passing over

51

of the foot.
it is advisable

correspondingposition to

The

must
heel-girth

to take

that

it when

which

the

it will

61

ALLOWANCES.

in the boot

when

occupy
be

accomplished by lowering

to

the

For

high-heeledwork

essential
foot

in the

forward

Allowances

be

to

taking, in addition
Length extras, to
when

the

the
to

from

toes

Length-increases
width

of the

allow

bend

shoe

for

to

being-

prevent

in

contact

the

rendered

the

leather

the

at

(a)
foot

protect

objects;

foot at the

the

as

are

the

too, when

necessary,

full

as

loose

whilst

or

it ; to

on

with
of

curve

is not

taken,

measures

is thrown

body

or

are

and

previouslynamed,
the
elongation of

those

coming

for the

allow

the

to

of the

weight

heel

boot.

made
to

it

important matter,
wearer,

may

heel-girth.

the

measuring

an

of the

comfort

to the

going

this is

This

on.

raising the

the toes, and

then

required height,and

the heel

with

shoe

or

and
toe.

the

joint,so

allowing for the longitudinal contraction caused by the

(") Girth increases and decreases,
spreadingof the shoe.
and
give of the upper and
accordingto the substance
mature
or
sole, the
development of the foot, whether
growing.
the
The
following table will show
length
average
the
allowances
by the sizeover
length-measure,taken
"

"

stick,without

the

of the

weight

Men's

Women's

Jb"oys

borne

length be
the

upon

given

sizeg

in

Men's

by

The

and

girthincreases

weight

draft,the

...

and

women's

...

...

decreases

"

are

( J^

given below"
ioint- girth.

onJinste;_girth.
\!n']arger
{
^^
I \
larger
instep-girth.
^

"n

and
Youths', boys',
*
'

children's

...

allowance

"

"

...

......

body

finch.

/ I in. less on

Men's

of the

"

...

...

last.

the

Women's

Children's

for lasfc

longer for

taking

will be reduced

above

"

for last.

longer

with

measured

foot,as

longer

sizes

sizes

Children's,2
If the

1
5

ii

thereon

body

in.

on

62

MANUFACTURE

THE

These

deductions

yielding
leather

in

for the

usual

are

made

are

for

be

made

to

up

deduction

goods are

if the

; but

worn

of

stretch

children's

in the

no

the

goods

measure.

be

should

made

for
greater addition should be made
the juvenile requirements. Bony
feet are
usually made
and
feet that are
fully up to measure,
fleshymay be made
on

under
boot

adults'

stout,

very

for soft

are

allow

to

increases

SHOES.

AND

measures

strong boots that are

stretchy,they would

uppers

the

adult

the

are

The

wear.

lightand

If the

in

and

uppers,

BOOTS

OF

the

according

measurement,

to be

Other

and

resorted

of

taking Foot-Measurements
One

to.

method
L\

is

g|

6\

fastened

together
locate

to

tape

one

end, and

the

last, and

the

52

is

addition

an

liable

more

end

of

the

the

other

tape

the

at

first used

end

thickness
the

whereas

the

American

C the waist, D
the

of the

ankle

it is

last

is to

register

be

to

the
of

the

the

heel

and
at

the

to

tape.

round

measure

dependent

the

measured,

practice,this

In

foot

draft-plan

is not

upon

the

lutely
being absois usually
seat

last

displacingthe position-measure.

illustrated in

width

or

same,

wider, thus

method, because

and

the

by placing

point

point opposite the

reliable

the

heel

round

ing
measur-

than

error

method

is carried

girth-measureis next taken,

the foot and girthrecorded.

The

to

end

and

when

positionson

the

Another
previouslydescribed.
from
the
the position-distances
one

Ol\

right angles,as Fig. 52, using

or
registerthe distance from the
the girth-measureother
to take
ments.

recording

of

method

tapes

two

at

necessitates

This

times
some-

are

have

to

FIG

the

made.
Methods

toe

of

substance

the

to

System

Fig. 53,
the

of

where

instep,E

measurements

taking
A

is the

the

measurements

is

ball,B the half-ball,

F the heel, and

long-heel,
respectively.The long-heel

the

64

THE

brass
and

MANUFACTURE

rod

OF

the other

along

runs

permits

tape is passed round

until the

of

base

the

on

The
in

the

point is oppositethe

instruments

Heel-Girth

is

Locater

It consists

of

placingon

of the foot.

piece

fastened,as C

in

of the

At

C'.

rim

indiscriminately. To
base-board

shown

as

positionof
from

the

Ellis's Pedistat
inches

long

againstwhich

and

the

along

uniformity

thereby ensured.
for

useful

mental
experi-

piece of apparatus.

rod

brass

coincides with

quadrant B,
from

the

moving

the

allow

the back,

that

locate, is

to

rim

rod

is

the inside
with

marked

exception
up

of

down

and

heel-

apparatus, the foot,the

the

use

at

to

movable

placed on

the

is adjusted
rod A
The
Fig. 54.
the angle of the rod
and
heel-girth,
in

quadrant, and
consists
four

When

measurement.

scale, and

instrument, with

the

the

The

it is desired

of which

measure

one

side,and

one

centre

guide to prevent

is read

moved

large enough

Fig. 54.

pivot round

edge

to the

pointer is

simple and,

wood

of

degrees, completes the

the

fro.

54

FIG

corner

to and

box,

tape,and at the
made, thus locating

the foot is

a very
especially,

purposes

to

to

sides of the

of the

centre

all made

are

the last and

measuring

made

both

to travel

foot this

SHOES.

AND

is
pointeron the chart a mark
chart the longitudinal
position of

The

is

edge of

jointed pointer

BOOTS

wide.

the heel is

of

At

recorded.

platform,A (Fig.55),twelve
one

placed.

end

Outside

of this

is

the borders

block,
of the

65

APPARATUS.

MEASURING

platform are two grooves, EE, along

CO, may slide. The edges BB,
pillars,

which

two

upright

outside the grooves

FIG.

55

ELL/5

FIG

EE,

are

numbered

marked
from

with
the

PED/STAT.

56

inches, sub-divided
heel-block.

The

into

one-eighths
also
pillarsare

66

THE

MANUFACTURE

from

graduated, dating
the

instrument

milled
movable
the

the

that

fro

and

rule, ccy is provided with

shaded

The

centre.

foot made

SHOES.

portion is

the

either

section

of

usage

is the

pillarsAA.

scale

The
where

by Fig. 56,

to

moves

AND

platform level.

is illustrated

screw

BOOTS

OF

of

side from
of

cast

are
instep. The pillarsAA
brought
along the groove EE (Fig.55) until opposite the positionof
the top of the instep,
the scale
and the length indicated
on
BB
The
rule cc (Fig.56) is now
taken,
(Fig.55) noted.

and

the

height
AA,

starred
of

the

and

edges

centre

under

the

of

outside

the

distances

distances.

Plans

thus

and

and

of

highest part, and the

the pillars
rule noted
on

"star"

the

from

the

inside

respectivelyas inside
point of the highest part of

The
be

accurately
of the

Elevations

this
It

necessary.

the

put over
edge of the

pillarsrecorded

instepwould

taken,

the

across

may

in

the
be

of
in

sometimes

leg are

work

orthopoedic
several

the

sions.
dimen-

three

by

and

foot

case

taken

located

and

is

but

ways,

the

simplestplan is to take two hinged boards, as illustrated

in Fig. 57, and
is to be
that
fasten to the board
used
of drawing-pins or
a
as
base, by means
tacks, a sheet of
The

paper.

placed
of

this

on

the

draft

foot is

outline

foot

other

board

in

position

the

is

brought

as

illustrated,and

various

marked.

The

girth-measures

are

taken

may

to

locations
be

tened
fasvided.
pro-

paper

the

board, and

positions or

the

the hook

outline

leg

taken.

moving

pinned

and

Without

The

57

portion
and

paper

by

FIG

now

is

upright
tion
eleva-

an

of the foot
where

marked

on

the
the

DRAFTS.

and

plan
the

elevation.

be imitated
Some

the

as

transverse

tear

registered.
ankle

and

An

The

and

joint

past

strip in place of
girths,and by a slight
paper

heel

slip records

paper

instep

good plan

the

recording

is
the

have

to

the

taking

would

ensure

which

the

printed spaces
and

sheet

should

be

"

measure

may

for

systematically
the

printed

the

method

if

carefullyfollowed,
the various
hands
through
uniform
adopting the same

and

measurer

"

or

peculiarities. On

which,

measures,

the

lower

spoke
printed (or purchase) "bethat give on
side space
one

"

sheets

the

joint, and

times
some-

respectively.

measurements

of

side

is also

measure

second

or

and
taking plan-drafts,

of

times
some-

are

leg measure.

measurement

other

heel

described

of the

edge

instep measurements
is

height of

edge, the joint,instep,and

other

taken, termed

It

the

to

tracings.

methods

taking

one

additional

second

the

for in the

the

added

be

may

that

so

substituting a

for

on

platform

screw,

in

variations

tape-measure

allowed

and

made, such

for

little

base, regulated by

may

67

pass

system.
Classed

foot

Standard

could

be

classed, and

measurements

of

measurements

were

of
to avoid

Measures.

the

the

length,1 J
Add

size 4's.
on

prepared giving

classes.

adopted, and

the

misunderstandings so
For

sizes ; bottom
the

If

allowances

with

common

instance, a standard
in state

-width,

of repose
in. ;

for

deduction

classes fixed allowances

called

(say)

boots, with

be

"

would
would

letter

or

be

be made.

foot,it could
a

not

be

so

the
feet

for

it would

stances
sub-

possible
standard

foot-measure
would

be

in. ;

joint,8

lightmaterial," in. on
joints,givingjoint7| in. and instep 8J

"

standard

length-allowanceof 2^ sizes,this

Deduct

material, the

and

table

various

lady'sfootmeasuring

8J in.

well-formed

average

materials, etc.,agreed upon,

last measurements.
for

The

"

(say),
instep,

would

give

instepand -Jin.
in.

If for

made, and

heavy

for

Supposing this
stamped

figure denoting the

on

other
were

the lasts
allowance.

68

MANUFACTURE

THE

BOOTS

OF

This, if properly carried out, would

possessed this
be of

would

foot

suitable

without
marked

now

girths
0 to 6.

fitting." The

"3

usually

are

They

termed

fitting.
fitting.

2, Smart

fitting.

4, Full

or

feet, and

due

the

arched
low

is

the

wide

difference
the

various

difference

larger

fitting the

the

degree

than

the

do

vary

so

to

in

the

and

In

the

required in

be

foot

slim

or

of

appearance

instep and joint

foot

than

is

found

difference.

developed
is

posterior as

an

have

to

appear

fittingthe less
instep measures,

there

of

provided for,

less

in

and

wide

greater

rise.

in the

the

This

well-developedor

have

instep, hence
much

slim

in

development

the

greater the

"rise."

is termed

foot, the joint is found

not

of

decrease

or

would

between

joint

the

between

smaller

foot

greater in the
The

fitting,but

differences

gives the

broad

foot.

numbered

are

the

stages

difference

The

instep.

measurements

in

the

jointsundeveloped, and
instep,while

and

"

must
shape-characteristics
girths. For instance, a narrow

the

widths

in

increase

an

of

reason

the

to

the

under

fitting.
full fitting.

decides

be

merely

The

in existence

the

besides

XX

or

joint-girthusually

fittingsis

has

full

extra

wide

6, Extra

not

foot,

fitting.
fitting.

5, Wide

circumference.

follows

as

1, Slim

3, Medium

fittingshould

difference

that

of

kind

is found

as

fittings,"and

"

also named

are

0, Narrow

The

such

denomination,

shoe

or

to be

measures

who

person

boot

to suit the

measurement

causing a largevariety of

without

the

enable

obtain

always

to

SHOES.

AND

Feet

anterior

portion.
The
be

based

Principlesupon
are:

which

first,that

equal length throughout

various

as

the

Scale

the

respectiveranges.

should

length-measures are

scale

girth-measurements be

of Measurements

of

should

the

equal throughout

their

(J in.),so

MEASUREMENTS.

For
increase

should

be

sizes

The

in the

the

greater difference

this

cases

with

another

that

in

rule

two

joint-girth

secutive
con-

the

used

be

not

joint are

should

both

greater

exist

in the

rise

applied coupled
quite accurate; viz.

been

is not

of

half

the

one-half

the

rise.

length
"

of

Alden's

there

adult

an
"

is based

scale

this rule.

Thirdly,

that

size and

size,the difference between

"

must

has

that, however,

last

be

upon

girths

two

in infants'.

than

some

should

any

range.

however,

as
instep-girth,

measurements

In

other

any

joint-girth

instep increases.

Secondly, that
of adult

between

same

same

amount,

same

joint-girthand

than

the

for

adopted

amount

between

as

measurements

for

the

instance,

69

in

i.e. rise
"

sizes, but

in

from

"

the

girth between
joint and instep

the smaller

from

to the

"

would

in

be,

rise

sizes, the
say,

-^ in.

between

whereas

in

larger
creases
de-

rise

the
fitting measurements
smaller
to the largerfitting.
"

instance,

measure

of

measurements

increases

"

the

the

For

the

adult

an

the

infants'

it would

only be, say, -|in.,with a graduation between,

In fittings,
the rise in adults' would
be, say, " in. ; in a
in smaller
be less,say -fin.,and
larger fittingit would
fittingsit would be greater, say -|in.

Fourthly,

the

in infants'

difference

should

between

be less than

If the difference

if the

be, say,

scale

of

measurements

will

be

proper

respectively,with
a

reliable

table

proportioned feet.

jointand jointof

that
to

be

the

given

the
will

measurements

in., the infants' would

suitable

shape

"

fitting

in adults'.

between

in adults'

"

be, say,

to

obtained

the

infants'

required
suitable

of

for

in.

feet, and

and
for

-^

ments
require-

these

development

alterations
be

contain

"

fittings

"

adults'

fittings,
average

MANUFACTURE

THE

70

of

Examination

An

Use, will

show

the

Tables

that

there

now

in

the

requisite conditions.
and

many,

each

uniformity
or

manufacturer.

conformable

to

tables

be

may

graduation,"
The

the

that

decrease

or

made

both
fitting,

for

awkward

used, but

are

be

cannot

for

where

adhered

this

the

two

sizes

made

complete

scale

this

that

rule

proper
The

of

would
made

are

are

only

the

be

in

at

same

give

The

that

unit

the

an

for
a

given

below

is the

small

MEN'S.

most

sizes

system
is

size
to

the

too

duced
pro-

obviate

girths

of

places. Again,
based

used

upon

required for

measurements

one

the

small, and

be

of

joints

last.
scale

inaccuracy

range

required

various
not

easy

Its

scale, and

the

increase

joint girths.

of
too

upon

and

difference

fittingscould

would

is

based

size

short

very

irregular

"

and

avoided.

measurements

method

this, "breaks"

is

are

This

to.

great, consequently
by

method

larger run

and

instep

various

inch

an

not

are

etc.

be

size

between

this

when

of

quarter

to

that

district

The

method/'

are

so

use

principle.

supposed

fractions

noticeable

so

of

be

used, and

is not

difference

claimed

advantage
is

in

scales

Alden's

is

System

should

fittingand

as
"

of

-^-in.system,"

"

grouped

Quarter-inch

rule

all the

England

in

scales

the

with

comply

standard,

own

in

|-in.method,"

"

his

first essential

the

used

scales

even

Nearly

of Lasts

that

few

are

adopts

found

SHOES.

AND

of Measurements

The

person

is not

BOOTS

OF

used

"

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

72

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

CHILDREN'S.

The
the

would

above

"

inch.

women's

and

Men's

be

(2-5) and

Youths'

instep, for

and

joint

between

difference

rise, or

girls'(11-1)
Boys' (11-1) and girls'(7-10)
Boys' (7-10) and children's (1-6)
...

SCALE

OF

BOTTOM-WIDTHS.
Seat.

Tread.

Men's

size

Women's

size

(3 fitt.)

4
"

Youths'

size

2J

4
"

The
size

tread

to be

and

from
For

increased

decreased

or

to fitting
fitting
by ^

women's

Seat
"

be

difference

6, 7, 8, and
and

and

termed

1
^
,'g
maintain

to

"

"

"

simplicity of
the

obviate

making

of these

irregular. One

of

"""in.

9 ;

-/G in-

i in. between

1's,and

^n-"

by ^

inch.

dimensions, several methods

same

in
instep-girths

To

"

notation, and

may

The

in.

in- f"r men's.

(sizeto size)
to fitt.)
(fitt.
(size to size)
to fitt.)
(fitt.

Irregular Gradations.

that

size to size

to

"

"

the

from

size

Tread

girths of

from

decreased

or

fittingto fittingby "

from

by ^ in.,and

seat

increased

be

to

the
this

between
between

two

adopted

the

joint-girthsof

the

the

10, 11, 12, and

13 ;

increase
the

of

systems has

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and

scale

J in. between

are

surement
mea-

1's and

~f$ in.
8's.

between
The

8.

the

The
6's

best method

MEASUREMENTS.

upon

this

is to make
principle
from
size 1 (4J-in.)to

-f6 in.

the rest of the

to

with

size

tread

scale for

(8| in.)for
and

seat

2
3
4

5
6

7
8
9
10
11
12
13
1
2

3
4
5
6

7
8
9
10

2
3

4
5
6
7
8

9
10
II
12

difference

size

males, and
females.

measurements

MALE

73

SCALE

10

j\
The

in

of
joint-girth

(7J in.)and
in. from
scale

:
"

(3 fitt.).

is

i in. for

size 1

(4J in.)

given

below

THE

74

MANUFACTURE

SCALE

FEMALE
Sizes.

13
...............

"

1
-

.........

.........

1\

...............

7T36
7|
7|

.........

7|

...............

81

.........

8}

...............

8^

.........

throughout

the

in three

10
.........

......

10

.........

E
.........

Ninth

the

there

as

one,

from

standard
size

and

......

......

12|
13f
12|
13$

3"
358,
3"
3$

......

......

......

......

is

measurements
the

in

foot's

gradation,and
The

development.

is ladies'

taken

are

and

3"

......

the

measures

joints

......

insteps

be

would

Gtt.

3 fitt.

6 fitt.

5 fitt.

4 fitt.

............

7$

......

7|

......

7|

......

8J

......

8$

......

............

8!

......

8ff

......

8|

......

8^

......

8|

......

difference

of

fittingand

in. is made
the

fittingfor

between

joint

size
and

83
8?

and

instep

size
surement.
mea-

different

the

the

six

rise

for

foot, being f in. in the

one

fitting. Its objection is

adults

and

Alden's

of

Method

of

that

fittingand J
it gives the

in. in
same

infants.

practicable one,
measure

for

give the rises

arrangement would
fittingssuitable to the requirements of

This
the

as

"

Joints

9|
10f

for the
the

the

1 fitt.

Instep

......

"

12|

......

......

breaks

no

Bottom.

Long-heel.

......

arranging
"

are

which
for

4, and

follows

of

suitable

girths are

9|

96

System

E.

10

......

size

standard

......

......

......

fittingsare

13

9g

......

recognized

is the

......

......

2i|

The

10

.........

good

......

.........

.........

are

......

9"
8{j
9|

......

7
.........

21
2}f

Instep.

8|

......

.........

widths, C, D, and

.........

2{i

Below

Ball.

2T"6
2"
'2fc

.........

industry.

of numbered.

2|

.........

last

Size.

.........

Measurements

American

10's men's

The

2|

.........

Standard

instead

Width

.........

9
.........

American

Width

.........

.........

81

...............

Width

2ft

.........

.........

7's and

.........

.........

81

8
...............

"

lettered

II
l|f
Ig

21
.........

7|

...............

The

Seat.

Tread.

Instep.

6{i

SHOES.

AND

(3 fitt.) (continued).

Joint.

.............

BOOTS

OF

and

arranging
consists

girths that

has

in
been

the

measurements

establishing a

found

is

standard

by experience to

MEASUREMENTS.

be suitable and
4's in

and

for the

other

of the

end
that

measurement,

there

as

is

system
of

sizes

are

is maintained.
to the

9|

The

women's

is the

other

This

the

women's

this

smaller

is size

length is

standard

4, the

size

selected

size 4

these

obtain
two

between

and

To

4
.

to the

adult

is added

infants'.

The

to

the

adult

complete
the

"

the

child's.

2",joint-girth
|,rise

2j,tread-width
Women's
"
"

4, joint-girth

4, instep-girth
4, rise
4, tread-width
...

of which
this

Tread.

8^

2f

differences

between
of sizes

^ infittings,
and onelarger fittings,
the insteps,
obtain
To
one-half this, i.e.^, to
by ^

in. for

each

infants' bottom-widths.

SCALE.

Fitt. 3.

21, instep-girth

reference

scale of

is increased

ALDEN'S

length

14J, the number

the

adult, and

tread

by

for
fitting
larger,and one-half,322,

Children's

sub-division

Instep.

into

joints for

half this, i.e. g9^ for

372 in.

the

"

sizes the

is divided

extremes

is added

the intermediate

expression

and
2^ (4}| in.),

7|
4{|

Children's,size 2 }
To

the

scale.
girls'

and

Joints.

Women's,

part of the

practicably utilize,
of

accuracy

the

equal parts

many

it obviates

correct,

between

latter

difficult to

standard

One-half

in.

difference
as

be

to

system will be illustrated

productionof

The

be

time

same

found

into

as

made, another

be

to

has

intervening.

highly approved,

the

at

about

subdivided

fractions,that would

while

is

scale

intermediate

respective girths is

men's

9J jointsand 9J instep
8J instep for the women's.

experience

the

selected,and

is

size 8's in

as

be

would

7J jointsand

men's, and

the

At

and

women's,

is taken

This

correct.

75

Fitt. 4.

Fitt. 5. | Difference.

76

THE

To
to

MANUFACTURE

the

construct

subdivide

done
mark

as

"

sizes

the extremes.

Through
and

make
and

Iff

Connect

of

the

two

where

will

the

give

line

(\ in.)as

SHOES.

scales it is necessary
which

14J, numbered

the

crosses

widths

for

several

all the

obtained.

being

were

points (If| and 2", Fig.58) by

it

to 4.

respectively

4, measure

tread- widths

2J

perpendicular lines,

erect

J and

it

upon

interveningbetween

are

are

be

may

(Fig. 58),and

there

divisions

extremes,

two

AB

there

case

the

AND

measurements,

these

if

2f,

line,and

of the

In this

each

these

completion

Draw

many

BOOTS

various

the

follows

as

OF

straight

perpendicular lines

sizes,measured

it
the

from

line AB.
The
paper,

widths

are

separate stripbeing used

An

front

joint,instep,and
Scale

Improved

piece,side by

measures.

substance

for each

of Measurements

side

They are
goods upon,

marked

is

English and
arranged for lasts to
should

be

slip of

fitting.

with

and

on

drawn
French

length-

make

increased

the

on

mediumdecreased

or

and
\ in. for stouter
lighter work
respectivelyfor
The
girth-measurements,and ^ in. for bottom-widths.

by

scale contains
has

an

all the

advantage

six

and
fittings,

(4J

in.

of

the

length) and

vital

principlesof

expressed
outside

size 4

dimensions.

measurements

(9f

scale,and

correct

in. length),
thus

It is
are

given

for

in

size

givingsixteen

sizes between.

SCALE

OP

MEASUKEMENTS

FOR

LASTS

(Medium

Work).

Joints.

Difference

per

size.

ME

AS

UREMENTS.

77

"*

V3"l

CD

00

QV3MX

78

THE

OF

MANUFACTURE

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

Bottom-Widths.

Size 4.

Total

difference.

Difference

per

size.

r8

If

Insteps.

Fittings.

Size

1.

Difference

Size 4.
the

girths.

persize-

1_?l8f.

pTs:

tfeate.

8o

THE

German

MANUFACTURE

OF

The

Measurements.
"

for

three

fitting.

BOOTS

measures

AND

given

SHOES.

below

are

CHAPTER

SOLE-SHAPES"LAST

IV.

SECTIONS

MAKING

LAST

"

LAST

AND

FITTING.

The

Production

in the
of

of boots

making

construction

the

considerable

two

lasts

suit

already

the

to

It

either

"

in

that

purpose

to

to

be

may

fit
to

be

It is to
of

remarks

the

foot, besides

Sole-shapes

existence, or
lasts

important operation
requiresa knowledge

of the

skill.

particular pattern.

latter

artistic

enable

to

very

proportion

purposes

provide shapes
made

and

shoes.

and

degree of

for

prepared
or

Sole-Shapes is

of

this

A
chapter will be chieflydevoted.
sole-shapeshould represent the sole-area
of

foot, and

that

it

will

consistent
to the

should

allow,

with

"

functions
between

foot and

passing an
the

contour

of

but

it does

not

formed
into

or

free

action

The

ence
differof

the

impression should

be

outline

or

is taken

draft

upright pencil round

the

tracingmade
the

on

the

contact

or

the

margin

convey

its dimensions.

by

possible

as

foot.

draft

sole-area

and

area

far

as

of the
a

constructed

so

fashion,"

understood.

well

be

portion
presses

the
A

paper
of

the

actual
real

of the
upon

the

by
foot,

gives
foot ;

FIB

sole-

sole-area

plantar

is that

surface

flat surface.

To

59

which

that

comes

obtain
G

is

the

82

THE

MANUFACTURE

latter,an
or

impression

plan.

and

the

foot

and

the

Fig.

draft of

the

position of
heel

the

for
the

suit

not

be either

To

sole-area.

made

be

must

of the

body

for

be correct

one

height of

The

others.

of soles.

or
longitudinal

should

locate,and

pencil used),

weight

considerably the shapes

will

impression
the margin of

the

may

draft

the

as

an

real

the full

sole-shapethat

Proportions may

former

of

sole, allowance

foot when

well

as

made

indicates

foot, may

affects

Sole

The

it.

upon

SHOES.

line will show

being

of the

of the

taken

illustration

The

portion

width

for extension
is borne

foot.

allowance

dotted

be

gives an

the

(due

ascertain

the

59

should

AND

BOOTS

OF

transverse.

the

recorded

be

same

lengths are taken, i.e. on the size-stick principle.

The
transverse
proportionsare the widths of the various
located
ments
positions. The principalplacesof taking measureas

way

are

the

"

width

the
of

the

shape,

waist;

expression

relation
In

an

the

end,

the

of

location

the

inside

positionsnot

for

instance, the tread

anterior

position as
seat

heel

of

the

sole-

identical

not

to

positions in

from
is

is situated

two-

from
size-stick)

heel, five-sevenths

hinder

afford

only

widths, but they also indicate

The

by

from

the

the fore

these

part
the

mid-way

of

the

heel

foot.

one-sixth

between

the

seat.

These

of the

joint

measured

if measured

or,

of

length.

foot, the

length (as

of the

of the

length

similar

of

part

locations

the

to

whole

and

The

toe.

length from the

The
is distanced
seat, similarly,
of the foot'slength. The
waist
tread

narrowest

numerically expressed is

average
of the

toe

the

and

foot's entire

to the

sevenths

of

this

seat ; the

tread ;

joint,termed

the

at

proportioned

are

shape, and

of bottom

heel, called

measurements

the

width

the

portion

of

heel

the

part

to be

will

mark

the boot

marks

or

of

shoe

foot

line
line

raised, thus

rata

pro

as

is

for

regulating

important

foot, which

the

correct
so

other

relativelythe

shortened
the

place

as

the heel

features

of

contact

alters

give

the

its

enabling
is raised.

positionof putting on
to

the

greatest support

SOLE-SHAPES.

to the

posteriorregion of

line

perpendicularly
descending from the seat should pass through the centre
of the heel, and will guide the design of a heel, preventing
surplus "lifting"being given, thus reducing the weight
of the hinder portion of the shoe, while giving its legitimate
the

foot.

support.
In

length
the

be noted

must

the

over

these

applying

length of

position,in

positions to
and

say two

"

the

relation

FIG.

joint,which

inside

from
the

In

the

the

sevenths
seat

ab

of the

of the
made

body.
over

The

last,of the

the

one-third

difference

length

inside

length ab

of ab

from

distance

the foot's
line

the

supposed to

The

this

60

The

entire

d is one-sixth
is

No.

indicates

size-stick.

trianglecOd

alter

60.

about

be

will

of

the

tance
dis-

toe.

diagram

shown, where

by

would

of

allowed

are

This

last.

length

the

to

half sizes

for the

foot

additional

last,the

below, ACDB,

joint
from

the

between
the

is the

is

the

heel

illustrate

length for

of the

graphically

foot

end

b.

The

transmitted

and

measured

situated

toe

end

the

is

two-

The

a.

dotted

weight

is the addition

last-length.
proportion

of the

sole

related, and
longitudinally
positionsituated equallydistant between
the

of

this

foot

another

line

is

one

proportions of

the

last; and

of

the

last

the

toe

end

inside

joint

length from

three-fourths

averaged

at

variation

due

to the

waist

The

Effect

The

of
of

kind

of the

Fig. 61,

where

line

last,sort of work,
sewrounds,

as

of

Heel

sole-area

studied

best

be

alteration
"

the
of

the

line of contact

bearing

of the

the

mean

straight line
the

the

portion

of

"

fore-partof
and
ab

the

foot.

foot

in

portion,and yet

the

inside

with

in

the

the

the

one

; but

here

upper

have

may

does

The

toe

toe.

By

great

position of
necessarily

the
not

which

may

of

foot

the

characteristics

the

it is not

margin

incline

trates
illus-

foot, the

margin

the

of
the

intended

to

border

of

or

straightform

sole-area

cipal
prinline

the

from

of

by

foot, and

Fig. 59,

taken
the

is

and

only

this

joint

In

impression

sole, but

of the

to define

sole.

indicates

the

of

foot,and

the

Meyer "-shapedsole

the

inside

the

it is understood

straight inside form,

of the
show

line

"

joint-lineof
draft

anterior

the

upon

"

of

is varied

Foot

taking impressionswith various height heels.

effects are
the
change of position of
contact

to

etc.

the

can

is

etc.

seat, but

of the

at

subject

is

tread, but

the

the

raising

outline

marginal

last-

the

of

The

tread.

or

work, such

of

the

that

noted

illustrated in

is three-fourths

the

accordingto

the

shows

that

T.

bottom-width,

equals the

Below

D.

one-third

is located

proportionsare

width

The

C and

be

it will

waist

the

is

TJSH,

drawn,

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

84

or

line

shape -in
connecting

inwards

from

SOLE-SHAPES.

the

line

ab, Fig.59.
the

showing
where

the

fact

be

line

observed

ab.

observed

This

when

of

toe

to do.

with

the

boot

It also
the

from

the

line

will

after

does

gives

inside

line

the

give

of

reason

the

fore

ab, Fig. 62,

the

the

from
The

the

foot

If
of
and

the
it

to

designed
inside

the

to

upon

the
the
of

corner

supposed
why shoes that are designed
part tapering slightlyaway
fit the

toe

as

it is

comfortable,

are

do

and

not

in

latter

Fig. 62

fact

to

last towards

illustrates

the

be

must

alluded

last made

of the

understood,

to, it is

supposed
the sole-shape
recedes
the line ab, Fig. 62.
line

of contact

for

heel.

block, say

foot, the
is

It

misplaced.

be

of the

feather

no

PI 6. 63

in the

margin

line cd

foot with

angle

an

however, that
that

plan,

or

explanation

an

FIG .62

cause

makes

ce

wearing,

not

draft

the

sole-shapes are

Meyer principle,
that,
the

clear,Fig. 62 is given,

without
sole-impression

it will

with

this

make

To

found

half-inch, is placed under

line

by

of

contact

experiment

will

move

that

it

the

heel

forwards,
amounts

to

86

an

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

of

average

for

-^-8in.

BOOTS

SHOES.

AND

J in. that

each

is

foot

the

raised.
A
of the
the

the

heel,and
the

has

toe

great

the

in the

be reduced
is

Fig. 63
the

amount

For

each

is

practicedo

designed

been

medical

Sole-Shapes

due

side

of

without

line

central

of

is thus

"

the

for both

same

shape

this

upon

Sole-Shapes upon
inside

AB).
very

should

into

be

the

expected.

ideal

shape

the

account

comes

line from
from

It makes

for

full

uncomfortable

is

halves

the

each

on

of the

seat-line,
It is

shape.

constructing sole-shapesfor
of a
illustration
rights and

plan.
the

joint to toe, coincidingwith

point of

peculiar twisted
wear

the heel

or

seat

form, that

if the boot

with

constructed

Meyer's Principle are

to

The

side.

"

an

the inside
a

through

passes

seat- width

principle adopted
"straights."Fig. 64 is

that

tested, and

been

that

taking

that

the

the

the

fact

ideas,

be produced
Camper's Theory may
bottom-width, or tread, on either

follow

to

one-half

that

lefts

the

from

of these

Some

results that

to

by equally dividingthe

toe

they

of the foot.

action

so

several

are

advocated

been

have

men,

the

give

not

have

of shoe.

to the best form

is often

failure

There

and
constructinga sole-shape,

of

chieflyby

advanced

line AB.

the

in.

the theories that

as

showing

raised,the distance

is

foot

"

upon

to time

has

methods

based

This

of the

raised.

line EC

from

away

and

ground,

the amount

constructing Sole- Shapes.

of

well-known

in

travelled

has

line

middle

the

this ; the

illustrate

that

effect is observed

same

proportionfor

toe

The

any

observed

the

the foot is upon

J in. the heel

Methods

time

to

without

surface

towards

moves

skeleton.

given to

the

from

away

it

phalange of

the

it.

level

view

plantar

raised,it will be

be

when

is raised

if the heel

line round

upon

is elevated

toe

it may

put

great toe

of the foot XY

are

is

foot

the

to

foot, p. 29, where

dotted

made

be

now

of the

skeleton

If

as

should

reference

or

shoe

line

(Fig.65,

is
has

usually
a

heel.

88

the

THE

MANUFACTURE

surface

upper

gives

idea

an

OF

of

AND

The

toes.

SHOES.

illustration,Fig. 66,

sole-shape designed

theory applied to
Hannibal's

the

of

BOOTS

the

upon

foot.

a
System of constructing
sole-shapeis

than

one
practicable

either

Camper's or Meyer's.

line is drawn,

the

is

seat

placed
Two

side

of

drawn,

are

line

the

ab

one-sixth

inside

of the

entire

and

To

from

away

into four

obtained, and

line

is situated

ss

from

length
the

Through

the

outside

from

and

by measuring

adults',and

sevens

heel

this

cd.

This

the

other

data

by

these

the

points

tread- width

side
the

the

of

of
line

the

shape

and

its

cd, the

seat

width

is

the

tread, and

remainder

divided

equal parts,one-fourth being placed on the inside

the outside joint.
the remaining three-fourths
on

joint,and
of the

either

on

length-

length (seeFig. 69).

the

ascertain

relation
taken

to the

portion

the

that
proportion(longitudinally)
in relation

of

length-linecd.

obtained

obtained

size

width

If in. respectivelyabove

are

central
the

The

is

positionsof

for size

only

sizes

The

joint-lineare

1 in. and

cd

line

drawn.

The

d.

end

is

of the

more

and
(the seat-width),
completed (Fig.67).

parallelogramopqr
centre

the

to

parallelto

line,through q and
The

length

equally divided,
each

on

lines

the

in

equal

designed (cd,Fig. 67).

be

to

are

Meyer

these

toe

may

points the shape

be

varied

has

suit

to

to

the

pass, and

the

requirements

shape
of the

case.

The

Pass-May Method

extension

of Hannibal's

particularsand
or

shapes

to

of

system, and

proportions
be

designing a
that

reproduced

with

the

sole-shape
method

enable

certain

is

an

furnishes

certain
amount

shape
of

exactness.
In

illustration
of
Fig. 68 an
this
on
shape is given, constructed

two-fittinginsole-

method.

line, AB,

SOLE-SHAPES.

is

equal

drawn,

in

length to
9" in. long.

women's

fours, i.e.

into

equal parts, and

two

the

size

Divide

required,
the

say

seat- width

moiety each side,

Through ab draw
tral
parallel to the cen-

mark
a,

89

b.

lines

line
AB

is next
six

into

The

AB.

divided

be

to

line

and

equal parts,

through the divisions thus

made
(1, 2, 3, 4, and 5)
lines are
drawn
at right
angles to the central line,
and

parallel

ab

and

of

the

from

width

The

cd.

is subtracted

seat

the full width

tread, and
divided

lines

the

to

the

into

of the

difference
four

equal

parts (see Fig. 68, NOP).

One

of the

divisions

point indicated
that

passes
the

towards
marks

the

from

measured

now

is

by the line
through 2,

left-hand, and

the

positionon the
joint (see W, Fig.

inside

68).
Below
line

db

"": in.
1

point
mark

Join

the

on

(for size 4)
W"0.

On

this

slanting

line, from

mark

off the

tread

NP,

and

full
thus

W,

width

of

obtain

R
draw
Through
a
line parallelto db.
At a
of f in. (for size
distance
R mark
M.
vide
Di4) from
equally 3 and 4, and

R.

waist-line, which

draw
to

be

made

three-fourths

F/G

6?

is
of

the

width

of

seat.

One-

90

THE

MANUFACTURE

eighteenth
marked

OF

of

from

BOOTS

the

length (or

A,

and

line

AND

one-third
drawn

SHOES.

of

Al)

is to
also

across,

be

one-

QFLEHQTH

5.

jp
o

K
!?

Of

FIG.

68.

LADIES

twenty-fourth
marked

from

FOURS

FITTING

SHAPE

length (or one-fourth

of the

B, and

TWO

line drawn.

LEN6TH

Join

of

5B)

Ic and

to

be

Id, and

SOLE-SHAPES.

where
5a

it

and

the

crosses

56, and

mark

in

point X, and
lines join KB,
mark

waist,

eighteenth

one-

Divide

/.

S to

be

and

where

it

C, v, TV
How

and

other

any

and

To

in. inside

in. in

If

in. in

the

line

the

where

line

it cuts

JL

Sizes of such

Pass-May
that

in. inside

V, Z, Y, 0, W, K,

Hannibal's

arbitrarymeasure

through

crosses

S, R, M, X, H,

e,

dotted

complete,join with

Proportionsfor other

1 in. and

-j^,in.

67), or
and

the

join AV,
0.

equal parts
With

the
it

Join

ee.

two

Tt.

where

points A,

in. inside/,B,/, ^

to obtain
as

the

curve

of

passes

and

through 4, mark
Z; and
the line through 3, mark
suitable

into

one-fourth

join WB,

Tt

line mark

e, A.

ments
measure-

method

(Fig.
(Fig.68),
longi-

method

is measured

60.
.

tudinatty.
the

Draw

size that

from

the

mark

in

the

off

draw

line, AD

line, and
AE
A

"

in.

other

(Fig.68)"

size.

Let

(Fig. 69), equal

of

System
of this

shaped
a

length

in

Sole-

and

upon,

such

in., If in.

as

AC

denote

in

length

Join

requiredto

it is

that

DB

Now

this.
the

to

with

toes

section.
that

are

Construction,based

Shape

in

Fig. 60,
It will

will conclude

also

usually called

to

is decided

show
for

be

CE.

the

tion
descrip-

tbe

how
may

upon

tbe

size

dotted

through C, parallelto DB, draw the line

from
measured
A is the required proportion.

Principles illustrated

upon

proportions

proportion is being sought.

whose

The

some

(Fig. 69) equal

arbitrary measure

(Fig.67),-j%in.,and
ascertain

AB

line

various

produced

system.
Fig.

70

illustrates

the

construction

of

shape

for

THE

92

MANUFACTURE

OF

size 4, fitting
2

women's

page), and
Data

is
used.

-jV in.

for

given
"

each

(a)
|

in.

AND

(from the

in Nos.
The

BOOTS

scale

1, 2, and
line

of

SHOES.

facing the titletoe for \\ in. heel.

contact

elevation

of

the

foot; (6)
inside

heel

the

line

joint

"

of

the

heel

of the

seat,* and

one-third

(e)

of the

situated
either

line XY

is proportioned

outside

the

of the

joint-width

line

either

on

XY

in

the

four-ninths

width
the

line

inside,and

is situated

and

of

the

to

side,
in-

remainder

to

outside.
To

construct.

line, XY,
the

to

foot

to

to

entire

the

of the

side of the

proportion of
the

tion
eleva-

is three-fourths

either

two-thirds

the

-|in.

central

waist

side

vels
tra-

on

(d) the

tread

toe

action"

distant

side of the

or

the

is

seat

equally

waist;

from

towards

each

of the

XY,

the

muscular

in. for

(c)

of

the

to

inwards
"line

forward

moves

size

in.).

Make

"

equal in length
required (say 9f

From

mark

off the

added
length allowance
over
the foot (2i sizes),B, Fig.
From

70.

sevenths
0.

B
of

two-

measure

and

BY,

Divide

BY

into

equal portions, and

mark

shape

This

be modified

proportion
to suit

the

varies
kinds

in

sewrounds,

of work.

from

is for, say,

in. heel,therefore
0

six

S.
The

FIG. 70.

mark

towards

mark

the

1-|

above

point T,

shooting-boots, etc., and

must

SOLE-SHAPES.

obtain

-|in.

in. for each

allowing ^

distance

the

W,

93

heel

elevation,i.e.""".

TS

between

is

equally divided.

lines
Through Y, S, W, T, and X draw
will be
angles to XY, and the position-lines
for

waist, and

seat,

taking
is

tread.

equally divided,

line

waist-line
is measured

t and

the

is

From

dotted

obtain

To

point

*.

Join

Divide

K.

mark

the

Fig. 70), and

1', 2',

3'.

1'

the line

crosses

the

which

No.

*K

will

six

draw

lines

that

to

the

line

the

be the

toe-line

and

K,

from

to

and

from

will

toe

line 2K

to

it

where

gives

the

Similarly,
point through

is the

will

either

and

pass.

3' passes
where
pass, and
To
point for No. 3 toe to pass.

toe

XP

equal parts (1, 2,

parallelto XP,

R".

number

is drawn
No.

Join

equal parts, and

for

3, divide

three

point

through t.
each
% in.

crosses

One-

and

marked.

it

into

from

line 2' passes

2

where

into

which

point through
where

or

1, 2,

X*

from

and

w,

w'.

t\

-| in.

Nos.

the

One-third

towards

from

tread

joint.
through

towards

is drawn

the

as

outside

70.

from

also XH

through 1',2',3'

from

the

joint,and

waist-line

(here f-in.),and
*"',and

far
of the

diagram, Fig.
put

side

as

the

the

from

towards

line

Join

form

to

line, M,

toes

each

inside

t'r is marked

measured

elevation

of heel

is marked

distance

the

found.

the

two-thirds

remaining

in

in

the

by

seat-width

Four-ninths

form

obtained
found

The

drawn

right

at

is

placed

are

XY.

lines

waist-measure

of

lines

from

draw

shown

t',as

third
0

XY

XT.

one-half

to

five-ninths

to

of the

from

remaining
Parallel

and

Through ss'
and parallelto

XY.

toe-line

between

point midway

The

To

the

line,

complete

3 toe,
through
towards
t',and thence
through 0 towards w'. Bending
then passes
the curve
to point a',and
inwards, it comes
side of the shape is determined
The
other
through Y.
by continuing through s, w, t, and according to the
shape toe finish at X.

the

shape,

Pointed

shapes
but

or

because

if the

Square
the

shape

respects the

draw

toe

from

Toes

foot is

and

last

may

be

are

tapering
be

always

not
or

square

1, 2,

to

be

suit

put

on

respectively;

suitably constructed

designed to

or

the

in other
"

fashion

"

THE

94

MANUFACTURE

without
if the

opposite

is

the

second
be

In

in

toe, and

Fig. 72 show

give

how

BOOTS

AND

an

the

SHOES.

pointed toe, for instance,

the

of the

centre

the

tread, but

from

curves

comfortable

gradual,a
will

Fig.71
and

foot.

placed, not

side

either

on

the

injury to
toe

OF

boot

this

point

be produced.

may

illustration of this

foot may

remain

principle,
uninjured by

pointed toe.
Grading other

done

in

one

Sizes

two

or

Fittings of sole-shapes
may

and

systems,and by machine.

The

shifting

FIG. 72.

FIG. 71.
for

systems

simple,but

short

in

the

of

range

hands

be

of

an

sizes

fittingsare
inexperiencedperson,
or

very

the

of true
out
fittingsare
proportion. The
radial system produces grades,in the ratio that the several
this is not what
is required
to the length,and
widths
are
to suit the grade of the widths.
waists

of

The

Fig. 73,
and

EF

the

Pass-May
where
the

AB

System

of

is the

seat-line.

The

grading Fittings is illustrated in

and
length-line,
amount

of

CD

grade

the
is

tread,
decided

96

THE

(If the

grade
the

MANUFACTURE

should

be
the

to

divided

obtain

the

place directlyover
the

the

position,move
F

B.

to

line

of

the

the

of

line
the

the

EB, and

pattern

seat-lines

of

position.

Move

the

Return

the

C.

to

place

the

the

DF,

other
A

give
the

System
total

the

the

waist-

the

grade

at

to
a

the

together.
the

pattern

AC, place

and

curve

tread

ratio

in

to

D.

system,
waist,

repeated

for

CE.

should

the

tern
pat-

seat-lines,

accurate, should

of

in

from

outside

the

and

of

curve

and

This

width, but

this

on

outline.

be

the

mark

at

from

keeping

"

inside waist-curve

Grading,

to

in

these

Fig. 70)

that

inside

not

divide
and

only
it in

outside

in

the

same

original;

the

requirements (based
is illustrated

scalingfittingsand

grade

so

originalproportion and shape

preserved throughout the series. A system that

answers

shown

of

remain

curve

and

tracinglevel

givesthe

pattern,so

be

may

the

trace

proportion as

same

of the

in

side

and

c,

length,tread,
identical
tracing are

waist-curve, for

the

move

towards

"

the

that

b to

tracing

construct

pattern and

then

and

of

To

of

d,

coincides, while

AD

the

B, from

this

to

pattern (while keeping

mark

at

pattern

directlyover
A

the

on

6, and

towards

place)

and

pattern
B

and

of

from

pattern towards

curves
so

in

pattern

fittinglargerthan

tracing

length

Mark

of

tracing

the

out
cut-

pattern towards

line

the

obtain

the

over

central

the

When

tracing level.

pattern and

To

the

on

pattern

of

of

A.)

tread, seat, and

move

of

seat

will be outlined.
the

of

the

return

on

side of

shape (Fig.73)

line

tracing,and

each

location

product equally

tracing coincide.

central

central

point

Trace

lines

pattern and

Next

AB

that

the

pattern and

keeping

this

the

FB, for the fittinglarger,

seat

at

the marked-out

that

shape, so
both

length,and

curve

of

ratio

moiety, being placed on

one

To

whole

SHOES.

seat-grade is required,the
the

multiplied by

AND

BOOTS

the

proportion of

correct

seat

OF

in

sizes consists

proportions and
and

the

test

of

upon

the

principle

Fig. 74. The principle

of adding the required
locations
the

as

accuracy

existing
of

this

THE

OF

UNIVERSITY
"SHAPES.

fact that

in the

lies
principle

sizes will be the

and
fittings

Application.The
and

waist,

toe

same

extended

are

"

constructed
independently

main

"

97

as

those scaled.

lines

"

on

length, tread, seat,

the tracing of the

shapeto be
original
Then

graded.
preferably by
of a
proportional

"

means

compass

the

"

grades

divided

are

placed
line.

and

then

leg

tread;

adjust the

trial,until

the

half
will

This
tT

say, the
the tread.

give the

(Fig.74)

tread- width
of

of

to

nut

small

by
legsexactlyspan,
inside

the

span with
the whole

of, say, the

width

and

do this,take

compasses,
the
long

or

extended

the

on

To

and

increases

ratio of

the

whole

tX.. The

screw

the

pass
proportionalcombe tightly
now
fixed, and if the original
shape be constructed upon

will

the

system

illustrated

in

Fig. 70, the ratio will be

"T equalsfour-ninths of "X
justing
read(Fig.74). Without
the

compass,

span
the

with

the

whole

distance of the tread-

width

about

and

with

from

long legs
to be

the

graded,
legs

small

(Fig.74) mark the

inside-joint
positiontiof a
fittinglarger. Keeping
the

same

distance

in

FIG.74.

the

SHEWING

with the

longlegs
the
point on
place one
newly marked point"',and in
compass,

WITH THE

FITTINGS

OT06

GRADED

0.3,AHO 6 OUTLIN"DN?lTOE~

the direction of the outside

H

98

THE

MANUFACTURE

joint mark
indicate
of

the

of the

full width

the

joint X'.

outside

fittinggreater, and

thus

working

scale

If not
the

seat-width,

for

measurements

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

to

this

of

grade

line

by again setting the proportional

width
of
that in the long legs the whole
so
compasses
the
legs
original tread is spanned, while the smaller
half
the
the
easilyapplied,
original seat (or more
span
be

may

obtained

while

seat). Then,
with

the
be

to

the

long legs

the

in the

will, be

obtained, and

seat-

widths,

To
the
half

the
the

obtain

same

measure

the

distance

of

sS
the

With

compass.

waist,

or

both

If

working

be

transferred
other

any

in

with

width
the

the
fix

Then

Ww.

this

in

compass

toe

showing
grade and
Cote

the

have

outlined

been

method

of

to

of

direct.

the
short
the

of

nut

the
with

ratio, span

the

in

long legs
legs the

short

the
inside

half

the

shapes
fittings,
shape by

for 0, 3, and

obtaining

S,

scale

part, proceed

instance, span

(Fig.74),and

of

sides

half-seat
and
long legs the new
measure,
from
W, the
legs will indicate, measured
of the new
waist
In the Fig. 74
measure.
1

the

give

the

of No.

fitting

new

will

legs

marked

may

For

seat

be

can

division).

way.

the

the

new

spanned

saving

small

of

fitting(or if the half-seat was

fitting
original,the half-seat of the new

the

of

seat

thus

the

constructed, and

whole

tread

whole

this ratio, span

at

are

compasses

same

construction.

Grading Machine

is called

inventor

the

by

"

the

that
is an
improvement
Pantograph," and
enables
patterns to be produced which have not the defect
of a proportional
width-grading to the length,that would
be produced by the ordinary pantograph. It is a simple

Improved

machine

to

operate, and

shapes

correct

of

patterns.

The

Fig. 75, and it will be observed

frame, containing in the base a
handles

B, B,

A, A

are

in which

raised,it allows
for

arranged

slide the

it will

in its latest form

so

movable

is illustrated

machine
to

consist

sheet
that
bars

of

produce

of

in

cast-iron

plate-glass.The

it will

C, C.

raise
When

the

bars

this is

the paper
board
to be placed in position
or
lowered, the bars hold the paper
cutting,and, when

SOLE-SHAPES.

glass,preventing any sliding. The graduated

used
to regulate the length of
A, B, C (Fig. 76) are
patterns, and in use require to be adjusted to the same

firmly to
arms

the

the

figure on

each

D, which

slides

the
turn

99

handle
on

76, and

in

arm.

width

along the
Fig. 75 is

its centre.
when

The

the

scale either
a

grooved

It is situated
little

is

the

regulatedby

side

of

wheel

over

revolving knife

the
is

nut

Above

zero.

that

is free

hole

in

placed in

to

Fig.
J,

ioo

THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

SOLE-SHAPES.

pattern
cut
a

the

"

One

out.

hole

size

same

hole

the

use

the

measure

32.

The

and

will

machine

length

machine

for

standard

larger,and

size

one

is

"

enable

it

decided

of

tread

and

width, thus

The

of

32

(Fig. 76),

of

The

total

ins., this

of the

width

would

the

tread

thirty-six

measure

Subtract

inch.

an

measure

A, B, and

rule

to
grade-width is now
illustration,say y1^ in. between

size.

men's, it would

at

unit

of

per

measured, say

the

standard-shape by

in length
produce patterns differing

to

in.

tread

twelfths

the

it is size 7's

for sake

"

sizes,

for cutting sole-shapesin

is set to

by sizes, i.e. J

one-

used

one

above, i.e.K, gives

provided. Supposing

is

the

as

below, i.e. I,a size smaller.

To

be

101

the

from

length

"

Length

36

Width

32

units.
"

Difference

4
"

The

screw

units, and

the

is

moved

machine

the

length exceeds
the
left; and when

is

placed to
Last

so

the

width

the

of

breech

be

the

screw

several

correctly graded

scaled.

In

Fig. 77

pattern is illustrated,and

must

be

sizes,should

be

produced. They

for

is

cut

so

that

longitudinal
it will allow

lengthways, just touching it

This
would
correct pitch and
equally all round.
ensure
a
spring being obtained, and if the positionsof measuring
a

last

to

made

sometimes

if made

breech

put

zero.

accurately cut, and,

or

When

length,the

patterns, are

may

four

zero

use.

is

screw

exceeds

right hand

particularidea

for

adjusted ready

width, the

the

Sections, or

that

is

of

lefthand

the

to

the

to

pass

joints

and

it

through

insteps of

enable

the

Fig. 78

illustrates

girths

be

to
a

cross

the

last

taken

marked, it would

were

in

the

correct

positions.

breech,taken

section, or

at

the

joints.
*

the

This
end

is

rule

divided

consecutivelywithout

into
a

one-thirds
break.

of

an

inch, and

It is sub-divided

numbered

into one-tenths.

from

shape,and
by

trade

yet

adapted

be

used

Woods

The

for

Beech

initial

the

preserve

required

measurements

by Fig. 79.
in

Last-Making

charme.

and

beech

to

is illustrated

This

custom.

as

the

to

SHOES.

AND

prepared for last-making,

are

accurately graded,so

be

must

shapes,if they

insole

The

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

102

in

England
and

nature

depends
upon

quality
deal

great

the soil where

and

is grown,
the

cipally
prin-

are

upon
its

of

rapidity

The

development.
of small

trunks

largerones
used
The
bark

for

wood

Charme,
in

the

"

or

thicker

the

close

The
in

the

wood

the

chiefly

are

last-making.
of the

is, as

to the

the

better

rule, a

quality

timber.

wood, is imported into this country

French

blocks, roughly shaped.

blocks.

bark

of the

thickness

guide as
of the

trees,

the branches

or

it

is

of

grain, hard,

They
the

are

thus

hornbeam

and

called

chopped

family,

usually

very

free

and

is

from

knots.
In

selecting a

suitable

wood,

the

chief

points

to

be

the

shaped pieces to
size of the

to the

the

is

an

they

as

advocated

makes
air

it

little softer.
to retain

seems

The

the

of the

more

the

timber

spokes will
into pairs.

be

has

Sorting into Pairs.

the

chosen
be

of

^structure
to

either

make
in

been

first cut

With

lasts

the

last's

point,because,
odd

lasts would

the

shrinkage could

be

Bark-bottomed
that

the

bottoms

that

are

cut

last

runs

from

height

or

lasts

the

parallelto
preferred,because any

the

that

the

wood

can

"

be

Bark

shrinkage that

portant
im-

an

much,

properly mated,
fittings."
if

which

that

is

shrink

should

those

bark.

sorted

respecting

This

width.

wood

so

said

the

greater shrinkage may

bark, and

wood

lengths

afterwards

seen

good by

are

to the

exposure

been

result,whereas,

be made

face

be
the

if the

and

wood, and

the

36 -in.

has

what

that

the

into

three, and

it will
so

sorted
re-

87:

into

wood

be

of the wood.

nature

cut

From

"

of

colour

seasoning by

Fie
If

to

age.
prevents shrink-

it

because

steaming changes

supposed

are

when
received.
seasoned
partially
wood, steaming is sometimes
green
to, being a shorter process

80

This

trunk, according

the

important operationin the

wood
for last-making. The
spokes are
stacked
in a dry, airy place,free from
direct sunshine
or
heat, for a period of
about two
years at least. The imported
blocks do not usually get such a lengthy

wood

drying,

FIG.

from

cut

tree.

Seasoning the

preparing of

length

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

104

are

sides

bark
the

selected
are

those

"height" of

sides
takes

are

so

the

usually

place may

be

LAST-MAKING.

remedied

by using

bottomed

while

older

plan

latterlyit

the

circular
like

something

the

sawing

or

The

with

is

block

greatly

the

after

work

quired.
re-

"

of

facilitates

of

knifing
FIG.

(Fig. 82).
Knifing the block
A

series

of

last.

be made
has

tape
The

the

During

insole

be

to

block

is

block

to

the

down

to have

the

the

upon

outline
has

evolving
block

to the

the

last,or

long.

last.

cut.

of work

kind

of the

taste

to

measuring

the

the

according

rough

reference

to

gradually

knife

model, and

or

ready

now

sawn

be made

required to

this

knifing constant

shape

with

ins.

14

about

from

frequently applied

roughed piece is
The

the

82.

It is done

stage.
blade

cuts

size reduces

the

to

next

of

well-directed

diminishingin
of the

is the

consists

knife that

the

with

into

shape

the

formed.
per-

process

block

the

chop

to

next

sawn

squaring

"

is the

Block

was

saw

the

This

bench

bark-

94

Figs. 90,

lasts,and

lasts.

Chopping

axe,

Figs.

top of the last.

the

on
fitting

bark-sided

show

91, 92, 93

105

last-

maker.
The

the

Completing

block

and

the holes to allow

drilling
the boot,
from
be drawn
respectively
finishing.These operationsrequire

Processes

last to

rasping,scraping,and
attention,
use

of the

as

from

copies
other
the
The

Machinery.

chieflyof

are

sort

other

to

after

shape, finish,and

the

The

"

kinds

two

"

pattern last

sizes

in

"set"

of accuracy

the

latter type is

set.

given

with

sized

similar

be

An
in

illustration

Fig. 83.

from

turned

block

shape
a

enable

one

model.

is

is

prising
sur-

preserved

machine
as

the

that

is done

this

of

; and

one

machines,

which

turning

copying lathe, that

the

one,

pitch,spring,and

correct

throughout the

to

for

machines

accurately constructed

are

degree
"

much

last.

Last-Making
lasts

add

they

are

of the

it leaves

this

io6

MANUFACTURE

THE

used

by Fig.

is illustrated

machine

band

are

BOOTS

OF

The

84.

SHOES.

AND

machines

other

drillingmachines, finishingmachines,

saws,

etc.

Lasts
When

they

83.

FIC.
with

so

last,they

OILMAN'S

outside

an

rightsand

"

made

are

side of

either

either

be

may

and

that
"

are

they

"

or

"

inside

joint they

last to

accommodate

on

made

when

but

INC

TURK

straights."

symmetrical

are

straights;

LAST

"

lefts

MACHINE
"

are

rights

and

lefts."
is

Pitch
boot
the

or

shoe

back

given
to

to

made

be

portion of

the

tangentially through

height of
and

the

heel

last from

position

is increased

following,the waist

the

so

the

is hollowed

line that

of the

more

would

joint.

pitch is

of the

elevation

It is the

thereon.

the

the heel

made

As

of
pass
the

greater,

to facilitate

the

LAST-MAKING.

building of
elevation
the

heel.

square

of the

of

seat

of the

toe

the

last from

It

regulated by

is

boot

and

If the

in

substance
little

91.

kind

of

the

sole

for this

and,

is

as

front

hand,

is

of the

shoe

for

spring

shoe

last

may

be

from

the level

men's,

illustrated
Other

The

in.,and

would

in

Fig.

than

the

that

forward, and

would

last

which

of

the

boot, there

high

heels

the
the

consequently

is
"

an

need

low

so

heels

High
Sometimes
hollowness

applied when

"

spring

last,the

scale

would

upon

the

"

seat

be,

plan

fore

The

part

arch

in this

rule may

more

shorter

less

"

of the

the waist

spring

more

shoe

is

such

as

sense

Louis

boot

as

thus

"

spring.
"

"

is used

waist, the

is flat.

is

elasticity and

"

term

the

of

for

made
"

be condensed

longerforepart
"

material

the

line of contact

spring

"

the
or

great
heel.

walking

Low

in. ;

be measured

allowance

"

not

58.

relativelyshorter, preventing the full

bending of the foot. A high-heeledboot
does

last

"

the

rests

subdivided

be

the

across

may

such

for

basis

toes"

the

be about

scale

in.

stouter

uncomfortable.

spring actuallyrequired for

of
in

formed

be

reason

the

at

up

for convenience

upon

raised.

substance
fact

surface

""turn

will

average

The

the last.

unsightlyand

are

constructed, and

being

will

another

having

the

through

pass

provided in

not

wrinkles

an

of the

FIG".

spring in

worn

which

would

elevation

soles

of

when

boots

the

equal ;

stout

consequence,

The

with

below

quired,
re-

because, if spring is

the

goods,

"

line

be

is

spring

require a greater amount

the

the

of

amount

sole.

thingsare

the other

on

and

of the

if other
and

of

firmness

light,very

that

Figs. 90
the

denote

to

line

the

basis S

and

the

91

Figs. 90,

last above

used

term

joint

not

In

pitch P.
Spring is the

107

term

to
"

describe
dead

"

the

being

io8

MANUFACTURE

THE

Drop,
denote
on

Dead

or

style of

the
stand

Waists

the

said

be

to

dead

when

waist

is

the

the

across

the

according to

etc. ;

the

as

is

of

the

building

fit to be

correct

hand

shape

correct

of

by
the

other

the

of

obtained

boot.
Lasts
"

be

may

done

several ways,

in

block, sectional,etc.

as

FIG,

or

former

The

kind

The

then

between

distance
on

placed

last would

seat, a

85.

FIG.

shoe,

of the

Classifying of

The

the

enable

secondly,to

heel

to

first, because

important;

heel,and

tread

edge.

last be

uppermost,

great, and

the

to

near

relativelyto

If the

is

SHOES.

used

last.

when

last is

straight-edgeand

terms

from

waist

drop

the

bottom

placing a straight edge

be

BOOTS

of the

waist

that

so

are

AND

OF

or

the

others

boot,

as

85a.

welted, hand

machine-sewn,

preferable,as

etc.

-sewn,

be classed

may

as

subdivisions.
Comb

having
and
the
"

Lasts

thread

"

place

of

cut.

They

usual

block

piece, without

one

for

used

are

sewrounds, and

work,
the

all in

made

making

slippers,and

is taken

by

"

needle

during
"

use

"

fitting

or

shover."
Lasts

Block

permit

of the

in various

cut

ideal cut
with
as

block

any

lasts

are

as

is

one

little

possible.

lasts

are

last

that

have

being drawn

shapes,according
that

allows

tendency

to

from
to

the
taste

block
boot.
or

of its withdrawal

injury to

the

cut

so

as

Blocks

work
and

to
are

; but

the

insertion

goods being

made

LAST-MAKING.

Sectional

Lasts

of various

are

are

protectedby patents.

the

risks

and

goods during manufacture,

recommended
The

as

Exit

Easy

is illustrated

and
The

last

which

in

is

that is released
lasts

the
See

one.

last is

shape

of

the

principle is

to

be

of

Fig. 85,

well-known

85a.

device

by

by
a

as

key.

The

have

sometimes

Arnold

hinged

last,and

is illustrated

loose

requiresno
misplaced.
It

by Fig. 86.

parts that may

Miller

sectional

86

be

FIG

The

85b.

variety of

last is another

FIG

no

this sort,

well.

The

has

of

spring

FIG.

block

mitigate

to

by Fig. 856.
two
portions,

locked

are

men's

correct

is intended

use

alteration

and

of which

patterns,many

Their

breakages

from

109

last is illustrated

key

and

87

by Figs. 87

and

88

It
.

THE

no

is

MANUFACTURE

and

neat

loosen

OF

of two
which

key

to

88

Brining

last is illustrated

portions

fastened

raises

spring.

by Fig. 89. It
together by a cord, one

In

spring

is liable

If this

were

Boot

lasts,and

Lasts
are

new

thus

the above
make

made

are

is

much

made
ankle

was

in the

it would

remedied

required for
Since

catch

to

to

highly

lasts

the

consists

top

serviceable

the

accommodate

recommended.

of

of
the

during withdrawal.

upper

last.*

thicker at the sides than

the

end

89

be

bones.

written

iron

the

FIG.

the

SHOES.

it.

The

and

AND

requiringno

arrangement

compact

FIG

BOOTS

As

they

last has

are

been

extra

other
ness
thick-

usuallyrequired
considerablyimproved,

THE

H2

MANUFACTURE

lowness

of

the

sides ; and

bottom

waist
The
has

is

is much
sides

about
Lasts

minor

also thin.
inch

one

for

that

be

may

the

Various

used

is

than

in

shoe

last.

toe.

used

of

have

Work

suit

to

shows

Fig. 93
hand-

the

side,and

to

and
slipper-comb-last,

Kinds

are

for

side

dead

Fig. 92

of manufacture.

last that

from
more

spring in

making

variations

method

SHOES.

92

rounded

more

straighteror

are

AND

usually worn, coupled with the long

a
greater tendency to lie loose or gape
to counteract
this more
spring is given.

FIG.
The

BOOTS

heel

quarters, that have

at the

OF

the

the

many

particular

bottom

of

sewrounds, pegged

sewn,

FIG. 93.
or

braced
for

work.
use

Fig. 94
in

making

shows

last

with

work

welted

with

a
a

metal

plate,
heel-

nailed

heel.

FIG. 94-

Fig. 95
sewn

shows

work.

little smaller
fact that

they

metal-plated bottom

Lasts
in
are

for

made

sewrounds

making

girth than

for

inside

for

other

out, and

making

machine-

should

work, owing
afterwards

be
to

the

turned.

LAST-MAKING.

in

snugger

those

the

goods are
some

thinner,

the

away
the

so

feather.

FIG.

or

polishedare

so

much.

various

easilykept clean, and

more

By mixing
colours

The

be used

may

Positions

to

in

Girth

with

marked

the

Oilman

last where

the

that

the

shellac

as

be

may

the

on

easily
top

of

Usually the
of judgment. The proportionsthat
basis of a table of positionmeasures

measurements

positionsare a matter
are
supposed to be the
are,

be

nail

round-headed

the

joints,
relativelyfixed ;

last-making machine

by driving

shrink

last,such

to

not

kinds.

for various

measure

do

with

colouring matter

instep,heel, tread, seat, etc.,ought

the

95.

lasts if varnished*

Wood

and

smaller
slightly

are
finishing

made

are

and

from

upper

waist, and

made, and

draw

to

as

in the

broad

which

upon

cases

higher

for

fitting. Lasts

than

in

be flat and

lasts should

Court-shoe

jointsare

taken.

are

one-third,and

the

instep one-half

FIG. 96
of the

length of the last. These are applied to the last

by measuring from the toe end straight to the joint or
instepposition(seeFig. 96),whereas the proportionsgiven
longitudinalratios.

are

difference,where
*

well

varnish

made

for this purpose.

AB

Fig. 97

is the

is drawn

length

by dissolving shellac
If

pads

are

used, add

illustrate the

of the last
in

to

as

recorded

methylated spiritanswers

little linseed

oil.
I

THE

ii4

shoe

by

entire
from

sizes ; Aa

to J

XI

gives
is

in the
it is

instep,taken

the

usually measured

the

instep location.

greater than
table

below

supposed

to be

A6, and
do

not

based

on

It

at one-half

of the
this

will

be

AB

last)givesthe
while

plan ;

observed

figures used
correspond exactly to
so

the

of

one-third

at

(not following the bend

joint position as
to

; A6

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

joint, taken

the

AB

length
X

OF

MANUFACTURE

the

as

that

given

the data

upon.

FIG. 97

The
to the

gives the distances from

as XJ
jointand instep respectively
table

Sizes.

Inches.

Joints.

the
and

top of the puff

XI

in

Instep.

Fig. 97.

LAST-MAKING.

The

115

the

illustration

the

automatically the girths of lasts,and

98) shows

to indicate

is devised

Machine

Stanley Last-Measuring

taking toe, joint,waist,

machine

and

(Fig.
instep

measure.

98.

FIG.

LAST

MEASURING

Observations

General

MACHINE.

Lasts.

on

Great

"

should

care

standard
or
exercised,in gettingout the original
of

plenty

should

shape

is

room

given

to the

conform

that the last is

purpose

of the ball of the

the toes

of

size,and

one

allowance

some

to

the

therefrom, and

easy
in

the

for

made

entrance

to

be

made

made

from

No

the

provided for,also

to allow

lasts

iron

contraction
be

the

the

to

healthy position.
boot

the

enough

snug

be

enough

casting

of the

of

toe

room.

to

the
It

wearer.

the

the hot

to

be

foot without

should

allow

boot, keeping the

injuriouspressure
last, and

should

no

foot
have
iron.

able
rightshape adapt-

particular boot
to confine

the

ness
instance, the thick-

turning only require one

should
of

purpose

For

should

toe

for

the

correct

be thick

models

experience

uneasy

great

model, that

place,and that
requirements of the foot for

machine

for

ideal-shaped last

An

the

being made.

of lasts should
models

The

in

be

should

wrinkles

of

made
any

of

an

foot
be

in

loose

ii6

THE

MANUFACTURE

leather at any

OF

It should

part.

combine

studious

experience.

The

backs

often

are

made

of the

in iron

rounded

foot.

lasts

and

as

convex,

and

96

is often

factories
shoe

lasts the

the

toe

Proper
toed
should

large.

The

seats

should

be

by Figs. 91

and

98a

to

as

little distance

Fitting
if

much

on

made

and

proper

from

the

by

be

selection

of
is

needed,

in measurement
of toe, and

tout

ensemble
where

illustrates

correspond
the dotted

with

the

line the

the

last,and

the

to

than

person

before
for

shape.

be such

toe

toes

that

as

The

not

measures,

the

last-

only conform

spring,style

the foot

plain outline

the shaded

ledge,
know-

selectinga last.
making bespoke,

should
fittings
The

pointed-

and

care

that the last may

must

gape.

style of

required. The

last

also in

draft.

for

to

(Fig.90) or puff

requiresmuch

so

but

short, causing

end.

extreme

suitable

In

outside.

The

thickness

carefullystudied

the

made

bevel

different

in

quarters

shape.

is

of lasts used

too

the

should

of squarer

of Lasts

up

be

judgment

Fig.99

often

article
good-fitting

fitter,should
the

waist

hollowed

give

draft, etc.,if taken

In

the

wear

in contrast

carefullyformed, whether

be

The

of

length

those

over

(Fig.91),so
lie

in

allowance

lasts

in

to

flat,

foreparts are
up

conform
and

much

too

turn

to

arch

The

92.

the

square

FIG. 98
to

that

are

not

long,

too

are

too

seen

do

by

made

Seats

often

are

lasts

in

and
straight,

too

easy, and

is obtained

that

found

often

are

SHOES.

AND

graceful and

be

knowledge

that

errors

the back
and

skill and

BOOTS

be

requires.
placed

is the

to

draft,

portionthe fittings.

LAST-FITTING.

Fittingsare
increase

to

skived

when

ridges," but

the

percha

is used

named

are

and

dimensions

that

so
"

its

for

They

contour.

the

last

should

be

to

placed in positionthere are no

should
be gradual.
increase

to
affixing

according to

iron

The

lasts.

usual

such
position of fixing,

the

sudden
Gutta-

fittings
as

joint

99.

FIG.

and

fixed

leather, and

of

made

117

shover, joint fitting,

instep fitting,

or
instepfitting,

pin,toe pin,etc. In fixingupon the girths to be made

for the instep,
from the measure
\ in. is usually deducted

heel

if the foot be
In

the

"

"

fleshy

"

bony,"while
foot

the

in. less than

be made.

would

instep measures

jointsare full up
the joint,
and J
The

to

measure.

in. less than

illustration

(Fig.

FIG. 100

100)shows
casts
to

foot and

make

If the

top

of

the

art

on

without

joint-measure be
the

outside

the

consideration,
too

joint

fitting may

to

small, a fitting

to make

be

it to the

required by

big toe joint. This fact

position
careful
study, as allowing for the proper disthe joint measurements,
providing the last is

and

repay

or

whereas

measurement,
thickness

worn-out
on

Plaster
heel-pin.
lessons
boot will give many
of fittingup.
The
fittings

and
instepfitting

simply placed,

bulk.

up

placed on

will

an

careful observer
sometimes

are

is

of

last with

roundness

of the

THE

n8

MANUFACTURE

in

correct

other

comfortable

Fig. 101,

respects, will

shoe

OF

is the section

the

at

by

bespoke

section

The

of

the

sections

of

maker

the

make

to

of

cast

which

FIG
the

tudinally from
is

given

in

Fig.

last

"

specials

"

that

was

for

foot,

Fig. 101, B.
longicast, measured

and

at

102

position for

in identical
and

102

of

In

over.

Fig. 102

for

the

joint,

last and

the

respectively.

cast

well-fitted

sole of the

ridge

the

on

to

enough

in

of the

should

last should

foot,and

protuberances

toes

heel

tread

not

is shown

last

same

fittingand

neat

instep

SHOES.

101

FIG
used

enable

that will

be made

to

AND

BOOTS

find

and

inside

hollows,
of

the

right place

no

the

place in

gracefullyrounded

and

the

toes
to

proper
a

and

last

the

toe, and

in

to the

where

fundamental

prominent

the

should

be

of

last

will

the

placing of

allow

the
of

tinued
gracefullycon-

position. Lumps

fitted

of the

contour

the
reproduce artistically

the

foot

conform

be

and

thick

dents

last,everything should

correctlypositioned.

the

be

fit the

to

the

the

leather

the

scalingthe

; and

complete a

of

"

"

set

work,

and

old

mechanical

most

method

of

be

style,may

for

cutting patterns
division.
is the

-Cutting by Soule's System." This

me

production

The

an

or

another

Wellingtons,jockeys, etc.,is
For

of

modifying

designing. Long

termed

grading.

struction
con-

the standard

patterns from

as

cut

to

standard

termed

to

pattern

which

parts from
be

other

classed
the

shape, or

new

the

the

complete

to

distinction

for

SHOES.

AND

forme* cutting;adding

obtain

to

may

to

BOOTS

remaining parts

used

be

may

termed

be

last may

forme

that

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

120

simplest
It

forme.

cutting a

was

FIG. /03

first
in

principal

and

the

at

using

pencil line.

The

last laid

round
than
*

to the

that

also called

t The

"

totallingthe

is

of the

centre

These

two

required

last

of the

Two

pieces of

required
from

of the
to
the

will

show

is

French,

last.
and

and

of the

top

toe,

connected

by

sketched

lead-

similarlydivided
are

The

It is

taken

now

last,only about

fit the

the

follows.

as

is taken

paper
them.

upon

improved

are

or

last is

been

the

on

points

back

shape

is

paper
inch

an

corresponds to

"

our

and
cut

larger

serrated

now

by

last."

or

It is

last-shape."

serrations

calculated

forme

its side

on

is taken

Forme

the

rule, strip of card,

straight line.

the

are

operandi

instep.

flexible

it has

modus

The

in the

then

(Fig. 103)

process.

made

Since

illustration

last for which

mark

the

detail, and

The

1884.

publishedin

to

cause

amounts

likelyto

are

trouble
of

cause

several

errors,

during lasting.

openings

when

which

Corrections

laid to the last.

if not
may

corrected

be made

by

PATTERN-MAKING

notched, and
of

tack

last.

it is not

piece fastened
drawing-pin,as

one

or

The

is bent

paper

of

the

to the

last,cut
the front

last

the

and

board.

been

far

convenient

of

back

the

last,and

marked

completed,and
be repeated for

last,the

These

The
a

formes

require now

produced from
lefts."

To

and

laid upon

The

other

round.

forme

parts by

This

knowledge

the

varying

the

to obtain
to be

cover

were

covers

of them

one

is taken

It is also

to obtain
to

pattern

fit

suggestedas

and

curves

in the

is obtained.

flat

round.

curves

is recommended
in

rights

"

also marked

the

forme

mean

last.

the relative

as

last.

relations

of the

by using pieces of lining roughed to the shape

leg and foot, and after serrating,pinning them

the

together.

Much

method

cutting

the

which, when

care

be

rough

front

and

the

an

to

fasten

taken

to

The

thus

be

iron

last,using copying

and
paper

back

obtained.

sectional line, and

blotting-paper

from

last laid

the marked

crosses

been

for

of

also be used
has

may

shapes

damped
it

used
the

mark

stain where
may

information

may

pencil to

If due

of

respectively,

be termed

between

shape required

contour

other

foot

leg and

wax

of

to obtain

good plan

distance
line the

fresh

side.

tracing,and

this

over

system of forme-making

the

lead

is laid

the

carefullymarked

and

paper

By splittingthe

several

same

piece of

formes,

the

average

the

from

If the

formes, they would

the two

up

previously

sides of the

custom.

way

removed

averaged,so

both

the

sides of the

outer

or

be

to

trade

is the

symmetrical, as

of

the inner

from

from

along

to the

formes

outside

forme, that will enable

mean

and

and

inside

taken

are

to

process

termed

are

they

as

same

where

off,or

all the

in the waist

the

and

"

removed

feather,turning or cutting it

insole-shape.This

as

that

it is cut

followed

is

to the

"

taken

laster

the

103

means

being

straightline

This

the

last,by

care

by

121

Fig.

down, imitatingas
leaded

down

wood
in

"

line,and, after it has

on

shown

the

to

GRADING.

if

"

pulling followed

strips cross

folded

but

pulled up,

the direction
the

AND

line.

it,will leave

upon
A

little

ordinarypaper
counteract

the

sealing-

to the

last.

tendency

of

MANUFACTURE

THE

122

the

laster's

pulls,this
Marking

be

Measuring

or

SHOES.

plane,during bending

its

the

produces

cannot

AND

direction

to

the

of

results,and

accurate

equalled.
System requires the

ledge
know-

proportions of the previous

but is quicker and a practical
workshop
training,
The
principleof the system is that the points

of

the

method's
method.

and

curves

measurement

last and

the

on

from

all measured

are

method

training method

The

of

alter

or

up,

BOOTS

last, by pulling it slightly in

the

for

to curl

paper

OF

fixed

identical, and

pattern are

point.*

It enables

pattern

produced that is calculated to lend itself to the usual

the differences that may
and
method
adopted in lasting,"
of an
be required in the fitting
upper for various substances
and not
be made
of materials
a uniform
can
principle,
upon
of points
simply by guesswork. The greater the number
of measurement
used, other things being equal,the better.
For
: length,
practicaluse, the followingare recommended
to be

"

toes, joints,and
from

of distances
be used

the

locatingthe
Description of the
left-foot

uniformity,the

insure

"

table

toe," given in the last chapter,should

for

To

instep.

one

points

"

Method.

"

of measurement.
Take

the

first mark

and

"

"

last
the

on

by

"

ference
pre-

front

the

F IG. 104

positionof measurement
Fig. 104). Lay the
a

suitable
*

This

piece

does

system

system gives"
f If this

if it be

were

taken

of

from

instepf (A, B, C,

of toes,joint,and
last with

give

toe

to the

left hand

and, bending the

paper,
not

the

the

exaggerated shape

to

paper
that

upon

the

the

Soule's

properly worked.
ladies' 5's last
the

it would

be

1^ in.

top of the toe of the last in

in

3 in. and

straightline.

in.

spectively
re-

PATTERN-MAKING

last,keeping
the

upon

AND

downward

the

(A, B, C, Fig. 104). A line is drawn

back
of the last (D, Fig. 104) upon

FIG.

taken
is

of

and

and

that

indicate

this

outline,where

practiceto
the

do

done

been

has
it

properly
be

pattern,and

the last and

measure

principlea point of
It is found

most

is obtained

thus

to

instep point C,

The

last,if carefully
executed, coincides
D, Fig. 104.
The

last

is taken

and

this

measurement

shown.

104), and
marked

The

then

These

and

enable
measured

marked

last is also measured

one-half
towards

of
the

this
line

to

from
from

made

paper,
to

necessary

the

on

In

be fixed.

the

seat.

(Fig. 104),

Fig. 106,

on

from
from

and

top of the last,

to

this

pattern

establish

d to

round

taken, and

the

and
seat-point,

; also the
us

little

some

should

the

use

paper

it correct.

measurement

common

convenient
:

now

make

to

Fig.

measurement.

last from

It is

give

line in

requires

the

Fig. 106.

as

Soule's

is the

XYxy

it

remove

"

will

forme

and

"

of the

will

dotted

The

of toe

top

training of
made

be

to

required.

this

being

bottom

the

The

forme

of

of the

care

of the

centre

paper,

tracing

instep

top

paper,

of the pointsof
Aa, B6, Cc the positions

After

and

enable

the

The

marked.

also

toe, joint,and
close to the

the

outline
will

the

the toe, mark

105

last.

upon

last

the
will

system
105

the

move

indicated

now

back

an

to

not

123

tendency towards

positions of

the

paper

GRADING.

by measuring

to

as

(Fig.

(Fig. 106),
from

d to

s.

THE

124

Where
a

MANUFACTURE

these

OF

intersect

for
starting-point

taken
the

at
seat

from

as

measures.

the last"

round

^keeping

straighta line as possible on the

B, Fig. 104 (half of this is measured
s),towards

seat

position.

1/2,and

6, and

This

is

where

in

repeated for

the toes

as

sometimes

seat, but

measurement

tape

cord

or

in

passingthrough

"

Fig. 106

it intersects

from

verifies the

a, and

the

the

joint

positions

3, Fig. 106.

FIG.
The

the

last

as

is used

of the

useful.

most

as

SHOES.

point is

instead
starting-place,

is recommended

the seat

AND

seat-pointwhich

is the

other

BOOTS

girths

"feather

are

taken, and

now

feather," half

to

IO6.

them

of

if

measured

from

applied to pattern

as

N, O, P, Fig. 106.
The

length requiresto
using one edge of the tape
and, starting from
the toe to the

again

top

the

over

from

distance

the

or

feather

"

top

of the

the

seat

In

hands

it is not

absolutelynecessary

be

made

the actual

separate process,

This

is found
so

that

"

of the

an

the

cord,

the seat back

; half

without

length

of

by

toe, proceeding up

the feather

that
as

non-elastic

passing round
the

is done

of this

lasting

experienced person,
cutting of a forme

it may

be

with

combined

standard.

Lasting
*

piece of

puff,to

gives

the

checked, which
a

puff,thence

or

allowances.

over

be

Over

point is
by taking

it varies

Allowances

located
one

by

may

be made

by adding

to the

simple rule, viz. the height of stiffener ; and

instep-girthfrom feather to feather;

quarter of the

according

to the

kind

of foot

or

last,whether

arched

or

flat.

PATTERN-MAKING

forme

nett

sole

will also vary

the thickness

by allowing in length
the

length

former

of

in denominations

averaged

of

the

certain

last, for

the table

way

the

be

would

The

such

as

amount

machine-

these

allowances

inch, and

at other

fixed

the

of the inner

upper.

making,

Sometimes

hand-sewn.

or

of

125

substance

of the

method

to the

as

GRADING.

to the

equal

amount

an

(ifany), and

sewn

AND

number

times

of sizes

over

In

pattern.

upper

are

the

"

Hand-sewn

\ in.

.........

Machiue-sewn,

etc.
...

...

"

stouter
"

Welted

and

the average

The

to vary,

the mode
Pitch

thus

maker.
or

term
or

it

also,and
of the

leg

the

the

to

seat

term

pattern may

more

varietyof

height of

the

incorrectlypitched for
relation

these

cause

of the
upper,

identical.
of

elevation

correspondsto

In this sense,

is used

will

shape

in

not

are

pattern to accommodate
used

"

stretchiness

is used

that

term

signifythe

to

be

in. in seat.

lasting.

principlesthat

describe
is used

is

of

its

also will the

as

would

plan

last and

the

fittingof

amounts

and

the latter

on

forepart,\

"

the
as

be

portion
heel, and

used

by

said to be

height

usually,to

describe

the

to

Sometimes

certain

ways,

of the
when

the

last-

correctly

of heel.
the

it

The

position

foot-covering
portion of

the

126

THE

MANUFACTURE

pattern.

This

variations

of

is

this

foot ;

"

leg position."
be

(2) the

to

material

made, and

of

lasting.

which
In

it is to be

Fig. 107

the

FIG.

given, showing the difference

meaning of "leg position")between
AB

portion

relatively,CD
both

of

made

the

the

from

feet

of

had

substance

same

identically the

leg

same

the

the

flat and

of

mode
arched

pitch (used

them.

The

backwards.
to be

and,

Assuming

clothed

the

in

shaded

with

material, and

then

way,

of

pitched forward,

leg pitched

kinds

these

would

the

shows

be

107.

is

foot

would

(3) by
a

The

by (1)

substance

of

diagram

caused

upper

pitched differentlyaccording
from

SHOES.

AND

would

sense,

type of

or

BOOTS

called

likewise

pitch,in

formation

the

OF

boots

lasted

in

patterns for them

this fact the

pitched differently. To make
more
evident, the illustrations
Figs. 108 and 109 are
backward
given, the former showing a boot with a more
be

pitch than

correctlypitched

were

the

boot

wrinkles
go

shown

pitched

was

in

and

made

in

curve

at

the
the

Fig. 109

the

in the
more

boot

forward

too

across

forward

last

It should

the latter.

boot

wholesale
and

noted

for the

were

would

that

kind

made

for

cause

quarter, besides

length
back

be

much, needing

it,the
loose

room.

Fig. 109

throat, when

looked

one

that

heel

and

the

fuller

is the

factories, because

Fig. 108

foot,then, if

of

allowing

too

if

foot

to

jointed

style often

the
at

excessive
in

profile

THE

128

MANUFACTURE

assume

the

appear

as

of

or

shape

of

Fig. 108
those

of

require

to

stouter

or

of this may

reason

boot, and

made

up

make

provisionfor

Again,

be

by

produce

boot

at

J in.,and

like

Fig.

known

one

at

and

while

These

The

facts

not

and

of the

leg

of the

heel.

In

to be

the

which

upon
of

boot

speaking of
profileline

ankle

bone.

its relative

tip-toe it

the

to carry
to

consider
the

the
a

the

make

very

one

that

high

made
the

ground, or

the

is the

extremes

heel

for
front

of

leg it

throat

When

The

?
A

the

line

alters

foot

is

on

position

mean

boot

constructed

different

It is

should

upon

is intended

step has been

ground again, it is

heel.

boot

flat surface

front

requirea

lower

and

Which, then, is the

ideal.

would

correct

the

the

boot

of

startingfrom

while

ground,

brought to
ground backward.

The

kind, purpose,

walking, this

is

positionto

between

its

the

above

would

ground-line or

stands.

line of the

During

heel

relativelyto
correct

boot

or

the relation

the

to

the front
seen

more

readily remedied.

upon

as

look

will

appreciated

express

boot

relativelyforward.

the

be

depends

positionto

is

taken, and

the

seat, say,

comprehended

to
to

upper.

lasted

would

well

if

occur

line

the

first upper

paring
pre-

the upper

last the

it at

are

used

surface

these, and

and

second

and

would

way,

of

the

term

front

pattern.

material

same

toe

to

necessary

same

drop

toe.

is the

inclination

to

Take

difficulties that

many

the

of

pitch

standard

the
the

Inclination

flat

the

from

by pattern cutters,

enable

the

the

Fig. 108,

109.

the

it is often

lasted

upper,

pull over

like

appear

the

determine

pull over

fellow

the

use

descriptionof

etc.,drop
insertingstiffeners,

seat, say J in.,and

Next

the

cut

stuff and

the

(satin)would

light texture
be pitched more
ward
backless stretchy material.

uppers
when

SHOES.

very

producing the

Fig. 108.

as

of

this in

which,

patterns

AND

stouter

from

seen

consequently

two

assume

the

uppers

of lasting."
principles
The
mode
of lastingwill

"

that

so

BOOTS

and

Fig. 109,

stretchy nature

than
The

OF

customary

be at

which

tion
inclina-

it

to

right angles
stands, and

PATTERN-MAKING

variations

for

made

etc.
side-spring,
and

Forme

for

used

forme

is done

profile. This
the last
outline

of the

also

Make

couple of

to each

lay the mean

just touches

line

repeat the

forme

them

between
The

making

last

should

it

full

forme

be

section will

and

last.

rightangles
that

the

seat, and

the

the outline, and

The

relative

should

and

to make

same

it,so

and

section.

be noted.
the

on

say

ference
dif-

joints,

greater in girth. A

inch

an

at

upon

fitted up,

quarter of

tracingthe

of the

Trace

will be seen,
now

the

and

"

ball

the

the

thereon

"

of paper

of the forme.

operation with

the

better,however,

sheet

this,

pencil upright

sectional outline

lines upon

vertical line the back

mean

be

other, and

horizontal

lead

do

removing

mark

the paper

It would

last.

forme, and

mean

by keeping

To

before

and

out

side,above

its

lying on

position.

system, but

last,flatten it

the

from

paper

Soule's

on

colliers',

as

be understood.

section,should
or
profile,

make

this

from

such

"

of the methods
examining some
standard, or primary pattern, the
covering of a last,or surface-area,

the

between

boot

129

Before

"

producing a

difference
and

Profile.

of

kind

the
made

are

"

GRADING.

AND

be made

from

the

"

fitted-up

"

last.

top of the

toe

in the bare

each

other, the

has

been
from

distance

in the

placed

are

height

the

not

flat

the

measure

lines that

upon

of the
The

same.

base

will

instance
joint-fitted

fitted,is found
the

surface,the distance of the

the level surface

last and

base-line,is
that

from

formes

the two
to

last upon

the

Laying

than

taken

have

to

the

one

the

from

from
toe

taken

yet when

right-angled

are

toe, measured

forme

at

the

from

is

an

the section

and
importantprinciple,
of the
of
The

most

correct

and

forme

at

will influence

of the

methods

is the

initial

last

the

Repeat this with the two sections, and the

the more
equallydistant. The greater the joint-girth
between

the

greater

last.

difference

same

net

is

toe

the toe.

the
This

the determination

for the

tion
construc-

standard.
Standard

Pattern

one

produced
K

from

MANUFACTURE

THE

130

which

various

the

BOOTS

OF

parts

AND

cut, such

are

as

SHOES.

linings,etc., and in a set of patterns is the

It should
be
grade or scale the series from.
and
draft
shape with lasting-overallowances
marked

have

should
From

standard

the

in proper

from

direct

The

the

the

upon

for the kind

of

from

have

foot's

the

from

System No.

at the

B,

heel

of

substance

the

between

This

ankle

and

may

be

particular

certain

data

Find

F, and
B

into

obtained

back, above

the

to

stationary

pronounced

throat

becomes

is raised.
for

horizontal

the

last

line,AB

for which

(Fig.110),

perpendicular,BC.
is the height
D, which

erect

which

the

the

centre

this

name

four

foot

more

the

covering

Draw

for

the

last

forepart of the former.

Also
from D to point E.

the

f F.
ankle-height
and

heel

C, mark

of
that

or

will be measured
the

variations

the

related

at

curve

the

is intended.

desired,

the

based

are

when

at the

curve

(when

surface-area

direction

the

in

be done

may

to

that

elevation

right-hand end, B,

at the

and

relation

acute

The

straightened as

pattern

This

"

observations

heel,the

more

curve.

First, obtain

taken

proportion.

line),the higher the

the

be

system adopted and

Forme.

some

the

upon

heel,becomes
the

completed

1.

Based
is raised

lining

fit each

may

pattern best adapted to

Others

type of last.

gathered

the

several

average

needed

be

of these
systems. Some
the
relations without
giving directly

of

means

to the

etc.

cutter.

Constructinga Standard

by

may
or

and

vamps,

is cut

to

finished

made,

may

forme,

last,according

the

they

standard

previously constructed
from

that

used

one

of the

this sense,
so

vamps,

relation.

experienceof

the

outlines

pattern,in

pattern, quarters, and

other

the

thereon

quarters,

vamps,

is

G.

is measured

the

Divide

by taking one-quarter

the

*
counter-height

from

equal parts, and

of the

built, less

The

between

From

counter

the

G,

from

of the

point

distance
towards

instep-girthof

the last.

t This
would

be

is taken

4J

in.

as

one-half

of

the

foot's

length, and

for

size 4's

(say)

the

portion

toe

and

this

name

the

of

GRADING.

AND

PATTERN-MAKING

Above

H.

off one-fourth

pattern, measure

K, which

mark

131

is also

of

DB,

equal

to

and
parallel to AB
(FM, Fig. 110).
equal in length to one-half of the ankle-measure
at right angles to
and
Through M draw a line parallelto CB
This

AB.

will

line

make

indicate

the

From

of DB.

one-fourth

line

of the

front

standard.

The

FIG.IIO.
is

forme

taken

and

level

put

with

the

base-line, and

at

the

time

Trace
touching point D and the counter-heightE.
the forme, add
the height
lasting-overallowance, and measure
of top of leg of pattern required. The
heel-measure
line may
same

be

drawn,

shown

in

suitable
and

and

the

the

The

will

illustration.
and

curves,

will

average

resemble

the

Fig.

method

be

at

42"

Complete

standard

will

be

with

the

dotted

line

the

tracing, making
ready for cutting out

110.

is

for

constructing a men's
standard, and is illustrated in Fig. Ill, the counter-heightE
F
and
ankle
being proportional to the size selected, and
following the rule given for the ladies'. The marking of a
this diagram, the height
is also exhibited
on
golosh to lock
of golosh being indicated
A straightline is drawn
at N.
from
same

"

"

adopted

N
or

MANUFACTURE

THE

132

T, which

towards
vamp.

the

represents

right angles

At

BOOTS

OF

"

the

to

AND

SHOES.

"-line of the

crease

crease-line

the

draw

golosh
dotted

FI6.III.
line

the

measure

of
of
a

so

and

NP,

distance
The

golosh.

of the

toe

line

from

that

into

divide

front

last.
the

it makes

No.

System

This

only

PK

equal parts
X.

towards

curve

Join

be made

may

pieced-goloshmay

XK

KS.
and

From
obtain

W
range

according to the style

be made
by drawing

the front line passes,

edges of forme, where
an
angle of 90" with the range-line(Fig.111).
2.

is the

applied.

in construction

same

of

instead

thereon

three

using

Before

the

forme, the

and

measurements,

to

do

this

the

preceding,
directly

last is

to mark

it is well

last is used

positionsfor taking

the

as

the

the

various

girth-

following will

be

useful.
Take
lines at
to

these

equal

to

piece of manilla
right angles to each
make
a

size

others
4's

at

other,

as

joint-distance
This

is

a,

of

distance
*

size, and

of convenient

paper

5, c, Fig.

from

usually 3

in.

in.
toe

112.

From

end,

and

mark

Parallel
mark
at

14,

in.

PATTERN-MAKING
from

this

4, above

positions

AND

and

below, mark

marked

are

GRADING.

from

b to

other

4'

sizes.

The

inner

side

the

on

133

instepof slip.

.7

112

To

this

use

and

it until

move

the

level with

^."

nn

of the

its side

last upon

base-line

AB,

the

of

seat

height

Fig.

toe

then

of the

last,should

that

so

the

heel) and

touch

the

in

be

to

thus

mark

is

size

slipba
peat
Re-

lay
positions,

the

touches
this

in

the

relation,

(the

with

when

bent

to

the

in this stage,

When

E.

joint

shown.

contact

back

the
the

feather

the

the

over

bend

Keeping

110.

last,

the

figure denoting

joints,and the girth is

the instep. Having located

for
.?==

top

the

the

round

the

end

locater, place the

the
the
on
positions of the
carefully mark
paper
the last,
on
joints and insteps previously indicated
and
and

See also

System

outline

Fig.

model.

of the

distances, and

the

measure

111.

the

trace

complete

the

Eemove

Fig.

as

110

105.

method

Abased

is

the

of

location

"ankle"

relation

in

longitudinal

the

upon

to

"ankle
In

"

is usual

it

foot, and

the
of

allowance
obtain

upon

the

to

length of

forme,

or

to

last

the

assume

neglect

the

foot's

the

length, and this proportion also gives the

bone
height from the margin of the foot.

forme

Fig.

or

No. 3.

This

First

last

as

struction
con-

senting
repre-

additional

the last.
of the

surface-area

of paper
its outline

piece

to

be

used

last.
for

the

Place

the

standard

C measure,
(Fig.113). From
in a downward
direction, the height of heel the last will carry,
Connect
this
less forepart substance.
the height desired
or
the base-line.
point,B, with the swell of the joint,and construct
and
At A
B
erect
perpendiculars of suitable length, so that

construction, and

trace

Size

4 may

be

taken

at 5 in.

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

134

they pass the

respectively.

toe

end, and

The

base-line

the

BOOTS

AND

of the

back

extreme

AB

SHOES.

into

is divided

forme

four

equal

FI6.II3;
parts, and

of

one

the

sub-divisions,measured

from

B, is marked

E, up
Through this point erect a perpendicular. From
the perpendicularline, mark
the distance
thus
obtain
and
BD,
^.
from
in.
and
indicate
Measure
F.
a
^ If
Through F make
D.

line

and

parallelto AB,

of the

ankle-measure,

perpendicular to
Below

-^f

either

on

H.

and

Decide

AB.

make

K,

at

from

placed
Above

allow

for

in. and

backwards

From

T.
N

from

the

is

necessary,

foot,and

distance
from

taken

patterns

must

one-quarter

S the

the

towards

mark

last

not

be

last

pattern
W

is

length was
scooped out

mark.

and

in.

"throat."

If

by measuring
is to be

measure

distance

leg-measure

that

the

at

line

draw

the foot, which

from

half-heel

size, i.e. f

one

of the

passing H,

because

of

direct

The
-Jin. away.
N.
Complete the

Fig. 113, noting, when

This

From

make

Through
height of pattern

squareness

fix S.

towards
P locate

the

of F

Gr and

the

Passing K, draw the heel-line

working from a heel-measure,
is round,

side

of

is to be

-| in.
taken

illustrated

as
some

used
here.

in

in. away.
instead
of

MANUFACTURE

THE

136

BOOTS

OF

SHOES.

height of heel is to be measured.

a straightline, BEG,
Through this point, B (Fig. 114), draw
line is made
at the joint. Another
to pass
touching the curve
from A to E, and perpendicularlyto this line (AE), justtouching

the

direction

the

back

line

which

AND

in

of the

is used

from

determine

to

To

and

distances

at

the

the

forme,

shall pass.

curve

the

height

line AFHK

is drawn.

the

This
which

points through
obtain
these points,F and
varying according to the

latter

the

are

back

measured

of standard

size

of heel.

TABLE

FOE

ASCERTAINING

HEIGHT

THE

OP

H.

AND

Size
adult.
1 in. heel.

in. heel.

in. heel.

If in. heel.

2
3

4
5
6
7

1)
10

ankle-line

The
one-half

the

is

be
average would
half the
heel-measure
is needed
is

now

from

to

would
used

vary
to

make

an

to

marked
E.

upper,

the

give

or

of

for the
for F

and

H, and

4's pattern the

The

allowance

back
be

leg measured
which

of

pattern

to

may

be
the
be

application to
of this

pattern,

stituting
by sub3", and 4| in.

remedied
of

from

of

height

material

The

on
one-

stretchiness, and

measurements

increasingor decreasing

line

amount

of the

"

lasting. It is averaged at ^ in.

completed as illustrated by Fig. 114.
in Fig. 115.
men's
work
is shown
The
excessive
curve
produced at the
together with the "forward"
pitch, may
mode

The

of the

the

P,

substance
"

such

last.

the width

mark

F
the

of

this

on

pendicular
per-

which

is drawn,

making

equal

to

is drawn

line

42", and

seat

off,and

to

of

AM,

the

From

according
the

angle

marked

according

pattern

back

at

heel-line

The

made

and

through
Through

line CEB.

the

the

drawn

ankle-measure.

to the

as

Jf

f
$

this data.

System

No.

GRADING.

AND

PATTERN-MAKING

137

5.

This

is

quick,

experiencedperson,

method

reliable

of

hands

the

in

and

of

an

producing

/R
(H

B
FIG. 115.
a

direct

standard

previously

make

recommended
The

etc., and

the

for

last is taken

length

from

the

It

forme.

for

is

having

be

to

handsewn

bespoke and

arid marked
and

last without

to

especially
work.

positionof joint,instep,

girths measured.

ascertain

To

the

FIG.II6
height of heel
joint or line
"

the

last

of contact

will
"

on

carry,
a

take

the

last

flat surface, and

and

raise

lay
the

the
heel

138

THE

until

the

the

direct

If

working to
forepart should
the

and

the

make

each

be

of heel
taken

B,

will

be
in

The

and

that

E,

at

the

the

same

way
of the
E

placed to

same

to be

of

(Fig. 116).
of

substance

remainder

used

for

the
structing
con-

time

correct

size

of the

from
F

line AB

in the

toe

(Fig. 117).
the

the
and

scale

and
same

should

at

the

laid

the

on

swell

the
D

of

positionsof

direction
also be

on

half-ankle

respectivelywith

traced

the

ankle-heightfrom

the

last is taken
coincide

for

selected

From

touching the

spring

at

taken

H.

The

standard

right angles to
of C, mark
D, the height
The counter-height,
made.

pattern,

back

and

the

to construct

by using

towards

K.

"ANKLE."

AND

the

to

joint of the last. The last is

taking the necessary
girths located
The

the

spring

of heel, and

D, giving point E

from

from

seat

direction

the

paper.

if the

height

(Fig. 117),

according

marked

the

the

BO

pattern

length

is

measurement
so

heel,

to be used

the

in

table

p. 125, is measured

paper

SHOES.

constructed

"COUNTER"

FIXING

for the

the

table.

FOR

of paper

From

is obtained

the

the

to be

of

and

lines, AB,

suitable

standard,

back

pattern

deducted

USED

two

from

to the

AND

pattern.

sheet

other.

the

at

measure

BOOTS

surface, and

given height

TABLE

Take

the

parallelto

correct,

this

transfer

is

seat

be

toe

OF

MANUFACTURE

on

the

registered.

PATTERN-MAKING

The
the

"

last

removed, apply the

principle of measuring

points.

or

Care
"

lark-heeled

the

should
at

GRADING.

AND

all

be

The

the

material, coupled with

points

taken

back.

the

to the

measures

pattern, following

to

other

have

the

and

lighter
or

presence

some

from

not

139

pattern

stretchy

more

absence

point

of

leather

The
point N will
shape be influenced.
P would
suit a
the
usual
show
non-giving
shaping, while
able
is
leather
material
that
designed for a
lining and suitupper
stiffening. The remaining stages of the completion may
be easilyunderstood
by the inspectionof Fig. 117.

lining,so

will

this

FIG.II7
Observations

Standard

on

in

producing a standard
above
the
spring of
"

"

be
calf-patent,

the

If the
for

be

standard

economical

or

not

to raise the

the

last, else when

upper

it will

similar

circumstances,

Uppers

as

if
difficult,

not

at

be

may

pattern

work, such

for

allowances

drafting purposes,

basis,enablinguniform

be

be taken

of the

toe

clearlylasted

true, any

proper

should

"

therefrom

made

impossible,to get

Cutting, Care

the

feather.

spring, etc.,
made

upon
under

results to be obtained
that

"

are

too

dead

"

in the

THE

140

toe

MANUFACTURE

difficult to last in the

are

to be

nicked," while

"

full

too

The

OF

those

should

be

in

its

of

patterns will depend

relations.

allowances

must

The

"

machine-

sewn,

the

Differences

amounts

standard

cut

in

last to be

The

of the

curves

be imitated
different
become

the

in
when

made-up

bent

sharper,the

the

to

the

pattern

much,

as

the

should

not

upper

should

last

"

on

or

back

and

heavy

be

be

not

standards

for

for

construction

and

often

they

also fit the

motion
first

foot

and

of
shoe

will

will

often
The

produce
waist

hollowed

or

of
too

out

pulled transverselyacross

not

boot
to

gripwell

be
the

be

used

differences

in

The
"

"

for

additional

material.

upper

several

have

of

the

fit the last

should

sets

for

of the

require

Standards

look

Sharp curves
requiringspecialcare.

because

should

fabrics

quarters of
the

"

leather,but should

Shoe
the

give

"

flat surface

to

as

both

lasting-over allowances,
and

not

foot.

scooped

extent

light work,

substances

must

boot.
best-fitting

stages. Separate patterns and

on

making.

spoilthe draft put in the

well-considered
pulls of the previous

instep to such an
by hoisting and

The

in

completed boot

or

and

throat

smartest-lookingand

in

hand-

requires,not only
length to allow for the

Curves

pattern.

the

as

having
lasting-over

riveted, etc.,require

standards
flattest,
plainest-looking

boot

set

fitting.

extra

the

whole

least,and

demands

width-increases, but also additional

The

the

fitted up

"

perfect

as

classes of manufacture.

are

the

wrinkles."

the

lengthand

work

to

"

part
fore-

standard

primary

for different

suitable
for

and

the

length, and

welted, machine-sewn,

various

required

have

possible,because

for turn-shoe

allowances

"

pleats

"

of correct

upon

be made

"

springy

too

of

fittingproperties as

its correct

SHOES.

waist, being tightand

wi1}ha redundance

standard

AND

BOOTS

as

sprung

the

toe

of

much

exactly.

principles(not

so

vital

standard) being observed.

be arranged so that when

at the sides

heel

under

the

ankle,

snugly, to prevent the

up and down
experiencedwith badly designed shoes. The

important feature, to

"

ensure

correct

"

fit,after the

PATTERN-MAKING

selecting of
of

shape
It

would

back
be

not

the

cut

shoe

properly constructed

the

must

GRADING.

AND

shall

hooked,
foot

correspond
shown

as

when

worn

to

last, is that
that

of

the

would

give way

shape

of

back

the

of the

while
illustration,
usual

standard,
The

to

should

not

should

FIG.
caused
to

make

point to
*

The

transversely at
the

quarters

be observed
edge

of the

in

this
gape,

in the

same

boot

last.

tendency

of

waist

for

should

shoe

as

the
have

pattern
strain

any

119
point
and

cutting a

quarter must

correct

down

cutting

scooped out,

or

seam

C, it being the

made, and

The

Fig. 119.

hollowed

of

have

together when
of

be

boot

The

by B,

reverse

upon

shoe

come

appearance

the

it

making.

is shown

shoe

produced by

by making

or

of

process

shows

shoe

correct

quarters
the

of

kind

the

during

foot.

likely the

more

the

else

Fig. 118, C,

in
or

141

not

in

lasting would

would

defeat

shoe

pattern.

be confounded

with

the

the

tend

primary

quarter.

142

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

No.

em

forme

it is desired

surface-area

or

make

to

suitable

of

Fig. 120,

the

"

AB

line

the

standard

the

of

seat

equal

There

step.

the

of
rules

of

shoe

for

it

on

line, AB,

the

outline

the

several

are

heel

of

last

distanced

being

height

shoe

lay

horizontal

forme

the

to

for, and

above

paper

(referFig. 116). Trace

fix the height of the back

next

SHOES.

of the

pattern

carry

To

AND

1.

Take

sheet

BOOTS

from

last
the

will

forme.
be

the

determining

this

will

good rule is first to fix the stiffening,or

either
be done
counter
by taking a
height, which
may
of
the
last,* or by using a ratio
proportion of the length
latter rule has advantages to
the instep-girth. The
to
A

amount.

FIG.120.

C, Fig.

as

so

as

T
to

be
a

ensure

the

shoe

in its relation

From

X, along the
obtain

E.

EK.

From

to

another

consistent
front
*

of

the

One-fifth

t If

lower

shoe

of the

back

will

give

along TD, J
"

draft

D.

the

of
above
Join

DT.

in. less than

TS,

E,

at

at

the

right angles to DT,

suitable

and

curve,

draw

from

keeping it as straight as possible

line of the
style required. The

that
last
is

tension

or

make

the

shoe
of the

corner

top of the
to the bottom
edge (seeX, Fig. 120).
line DT, mark, for size 4 adult, 4f in. j
"

curve,

with

ment
instep-measure-

the

from

This

in.

Through
to

entire

height

distance

measure

and

The

the

of

located

120.

for this ratio will

From

and

used

be

may

forme,

One-fifth

it.

recommend

from

passes

length

desired,

is the

use

basis

4J in.

to

should

of this rule.

be

MANUFACTURE

THE

144

where

curve

as

Fig.

top of the

the

at

for

mistakenly
such

amount

T,

amount,

edge

of the

and

the

second

case,

of
of

add

serious

N, Fig.

have

is

after

to

the

former

the

binding tendency,
is

with

an

equal

case

injury

to

make

the

idea

the

does
the

of

in

The

completed.

bottom, would

committed

off

an

on

liable

shoe

done

take

pattern smaller, and

fittingpropertiesof

correct

often

error,

the

off the

the

of

the

rendered

thereby

last

leave

reasons,

sometimes

"

Neither

122.

bottom, and

the

cutting

long-heel measure
therefore

quarter

top (Fig. 1 22). In

back

shoe

trimmed, for any

the

quarter only would

withdrawal

the

from

the

at

of

as

"

the

Complete

pass.

may

be

not

back

draft

as

vamp

SHOES.

AND

121.

should

standards

Shoe

the

of

the

outline

BOOTS

OF

not

shoe.

making

FIG.122
the

shoe

grip well, is

to

off

cut

J in.

from

the

instep,A,

amount
in the waist, X, so as
Fig. 122, adding the same
of the pattern the same.
to keep the instep measure
This
will shorten
the long-heelmeasure,
AC, and will also cause
the shoe to be tight in lasting from A to B.
If the desire

be

to

the

"

draft

"

the

standard, it should

shoe

for

principleshown

same

Vamps,

It is difficult to

"

fixingthe heightof
that

have

low

heeled

to

be

made

between

boot

give
vamp,

to

make

single rule

any

owing
and

boots

vamps

drafted

on

standard, p. 158.

work, and for accommodating

toe-caps. It is usual

be

of proportion

to the differences

shoes, high and

the various

for shoes

sorts

lower

of

than

PATTERN-MAKING

would

be the

shorter

vamps

for

low

vamps

joints,and
be

capped

without

than

heels
are

for

case

would
too

cause

more

be
low

it should

used

in

made

of cap

caps, the kind

for low

heels.

requires
low

vamp
If

exceedingly uncomfortable.
of
they give the appearance

waste

be

H5

high-heeledwork

boots, and

those

made

GRADING.

AND

cutting.
higher

is to

vamp

it would

than

be

straight(Fig,126),

whether

"

If the

wide

FIG I22A
pointed (Fig.122A),
difference.

heights of

or

peaked (Fig.126, B)" decidingthe

that

It is recommended
vamps

be reduced

to

as

far

as

possible the

proportion of

the

forme

in relation to the positionof the joint of

or
last-length,
the foot.
Reducing it to a ratio of the last-lengthhas
the forme-length;the former
advantages over
being preferable,
in length with
will vary
because
the forme
the
or

146

THE

MANUFACTURE

fittingof
in

same

the

last,whereas

the

various

instance,one-fourth
for women's

and

two-fifths
basis for
The
rule

by

OF

the

for low

children's

AND

length of

fittingsof
and

the

and

to

the

winged

vamp

is

expensive

squarer

cut

size.

same

for

high

one-third

instep-lineof

be

the

As

an

vamps,
and

for low
would

boy's work,

regulatingvamp -heights.*
length of wing admits of more
than vamp-heights,and should

approximation

SHOES.

last will

one-third

work, and

high, in men's

for

BOOTS

give a

definite

treatment

be decided

upon

the

pattern.

cut, and

by

long-

the

in

made-up
of the foot,besides causing
goods prevents the easy entrance
much
in
and
difficulty
stitching.Vamps
paste-fitting
with
short
if the
wings are
cheaper to cut, especially
material
to be cut requiresa system, as Fig. 122 A.
The curve, throat,or cue of the vamp
should be designed
in harmony with the style of toe of the last ; a narrow
toe
looking better with a smart, and a square toe with a
should

be

The

curve.

the

tension

button-piece.Lower
button

prevent
used

lasts

on

that

caused

the

by

vamp

freedom

to

of

the

fastening

also for this

used

reason,

causing a tying tendency, to

work
the

button-boot

little extra

are

vamps

other

or

abrasion

for

for

curve

designed easy, giving

counteract

upon

to

foot.

High

fall away

should

vamps

suddenly
"

the

below

be

not

instep,

"

should be
shover
required,a fitting or
taken
used in making, and care
not to springthe toe of the
Vamps for derbies and similar designsshould not
upper.
be high, unless
in the last to
provision is made
proper

but, if they are

cutting tendency

prevent any
in the

and

pattern to balance
below

standard

as

and

shown
to

that

edge

that

of the

in

the

bind

to

by

Children's

"

that

tension
when

deadening

work

should

not

be

the

be cut,

from

pulled

in

foot.
when

toe
as

of the

cut

It

rule, with

foot,
the

on

pare
(com-

vamp

standard,

lastingfrom
would

cause

be

often

shape

of the

may

the

the

curve

fall at V

would

the

upon

effect of the

vamp

on
"

edge

crease-line

would

Fig. 121,

"

of the

the

K, Fig. 121). The

K, and

remedied

"

very

low

vamps.

PATTERN-MAKING

of the forme

toe

line

VN

shows

is

AND

as

the

shown

in

GRADING.

Fig. 120,

crease-line.

Care

147

the

where

must,

dotted

however,

be

ro
c\j

taken
or

the

not

to

crease-line

will be too

upper

difficult to

put the

"

last in

"

at

below

tight round
the waist.

the

the

end

edge

Vamps

of

the

toe,

of the last and

may

be

cut

to

H8

THE

MANUFACTURE

interlock, and

advantage.

in
The

OF

cutting
extreme

small

this
with

must

not

principle,and

long wings, only

areas

of

corner

be

this

SHOES.

is

the

wing

Fig.

123

of

great

may

be

124

FIG
removed, but

AND

BOOTS

overdone.

it is

will

speciallyadaptableto

it often

requires some

trate
illusvamps

sacrifice in

PATTERN-MAKING

AND

GRADING.

149

.0

J3f;

MANUFACTURE

THE

150

the

the

of

smartness

BOOTS

OF

shape

SHOES.

AND

full

effect

the

length

to

economy

desired.

of Designing.

Method

the

Fix

Join

(Fig. 120).
The

of

It

p. 143.

where

and

It is
the

economical

of

have

the

spread

cutting leather
cut

EB

the vamp
the

made

edge

toe.

has

are

springing
leather
increased

and

open,
to best

vamps

by
in

the

VED

to

for

to W

from

complete by

are

It

is

at

by

in addition
line

xy,

toe

by

the

of that

over

the
the

"

the

the

the

to

edge

in

half

DE

be noted
of

amount
same

vamp
in

the

to, the
BH.

in

the

standard,

are

vamp,

increase

amount

of

is

use

alluded

before
the

the

boot
that

shows

is observed

greater economy

interlocking,and

to

flat

are

sprung

it should

tracing shows

cut

"

are

The

twice

for

are

spring,and

shoe-standard.

is increased

dotted

that

convenient

so

to

also

used

standards

from

not

used

and

patterns
of

poses.
pur-

primary origin,no

spring,and

more

several

lining when

cut

the

central

length

and

advantage. Fig.126
on

with

decreased

VH,

work, if the vamps

that

the

from

flat

parallelto VD,

in vogue,

amount

of

The

then

vamp.

small

"dead," and

more

distance

the

foulness

lastingedge

at the

the

on

passes

its

owing

pattern

marked

as

line that

with
especially

completed. Yamps

that

inch,

an

crease-line

line

distance

custom,

In fabric-lined

prevents

the

is resorted

Vamps

reasons,

toe.

fitted

and

draw

the

set, to

or

the

of

kind

lasts that

shows

of

at

of vamp.

old

an

give "draft,"

ABC,

latter,draw

downwards

Springing

dead,

the

crosses

sketching curve

"

locked,

through

this

measure

to

to be

attain

(Fig. 121),and

"

Y,

above

three-ninths

or

Y.

centre

stylerequired.

have

To

system.

it

find

to pass

wing

on
by Fig. 121, and is described
adaptable to designing circular or square

is

that

vamps

in the

made

be

may

two,

one,

line, and

of

is illustrated

This

from

with

and

Method.

Another

doubt,

this

the

according to

The

vamp

of the vamp

curve

distance

of

height

so

By
cutting

upper
that

is

extra

152

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

classes of trade

the

BOOTS

AND

interlocking
goloshpossesses

SHOES.

economical

CD

^
O

advantages,but
where

an

it cannot

unusual

amount

be

adopted
of

for

high goloshes,or

lasting-over allowance

is

the

made, and
be

not

cut

the

in the

finished
dead

cutting
between

the

be

taken

be

used, and
the
The

that

may

of the

excess

the

of
a

be

Also

lend

last the

same

jointed

one.

case

space

as

Goloshes
should

care

Bordeaux

greater than in

desired

for stout

About

one-fourth

being

made

for

of

of the

lasts,with
to

depth

of

wing

calf

vamped

work, while
of

inch

an

good proportion,

"

"

as

caps

with

AB).

Some

goloshes cut

to

enable

the

Method

instepsand heels,
interlockingarrangements.

obtain

with

that may

very

be used

full-jointed

for

narrow-

allowance
is large, as
in
lasting-over
stout
stout
outsides,with
etc., locking
lining,
only be produced to a certain height,viz. oneBD
joint pattern width (see Fig. 124, where
of

finished

the

low

the

is one-third

the

is

heights is

possible to
If

goloshes can
third

the

they are pulled to

Fig.125, A.

vamp

themselves

it is not

the

work,

out,

Examine

lower.

Flat-toed, full-waisted
not

leathers

found

such

for caps, etc.

cut

are

is also

usual

For

principle(c),but

supple

they

to. be

are

in

work.

vamped
do

be

to

given

recommended,

utilized

golosh vamp

differences

same

is

spring.

difference

lighterwork
in

such

trouble

the

to

interlocked.

upon

after

excess

is desired

pleats that

standard

only

height of

boot, and

so

used, cut

that

remove

when

wings being

sometimes

are

or

the

to

owing

wrinkles
boot

153

joined goloshes for patents should

or

interlock,

to

lasting,and

height of golosh

average

Whole

maintained.

GRADING.

AND

PATTERN-MAKING

article to

lasts

require right
"

to be

upper

present

square

and

left

"

properly lasted,and
position.

I.

Having

determined

the

N (Fig.
height of the vamp
Divide
NP
into
right angles to NT.
Ill),draw NPat
three
the line
equal parts, by B, S. Through R draw
RX
If a joined
parallelto a line passing from P to W.
from
the whole
he taken
golosh is required, it may
the point marked
from
golosh by making
by the line
that passes from
the line
M, Fig. Ill
a line at 90" with
This would
RX.
give an interlockinggolosh.
"

"

MANUFACTURE

THE

154

Method

OF

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

2.

Goloshes

designed

not

to interlock

should

have

the

The
vamp-length marked.
height of the back of the
golosh may be determined
or
by the counter
stiffening
rules
which
have
for
been
The
line at
depth,
given.
should
be
right angles to the crease-line of the vamp
the one- third
between
drawn, and a midway distance
*

one-half

and

the

fixes

other

standard.
Method

of this
end

Suitable

line,without
of the

lasting-over allowance,
Cut

out

with

an

golosh.

the

to

dead

for patents, etc.

3.

Fig. 125 show a women's

thereon.
golosh marked
the height required. Draw

interlocking
It is designed by indicating 0,
CD
at right angles to creaseJoin DE.
G- is one-third
line CT.
GF
of CD.
is parallel
The
dotted
line CH
shows
the folded
to DE.
edge of
the paper
used
for cutting the
golosh. If the golosh
to the markings given, no
would
cut
were
room
strictly
for the knife
the wings of
be allowed
between
to pass
the pattern when
Further, the leather has
cutting out.
substance, and
the

desired

the

folded

when

pattern

placed

point made
edge of the

on

in

the

paper

positionwould
paper,
to

be

not

therefore

used,

at

reach

arrange
a

suitable

cutting out the golosh pattern.

This will give the requisiteclearance, etc.
Method
of cuttingand springing.
Fig. 125, A, shows tracingsof goloshes cut to 125, and
The
there indicated
outline.
fixing
by the chained-line
which
of a "pivot point" from
to spring the
golosh,so
distance

from

before

shape of curve, is the

This is often done by using C, Fig. 125, and
first step.
the folded
by placing a needle-point through it, and
beneath
of which
it is thus made
a point,by means
paper
the wings are
elevated, so that the top edge or range of
wings is parallelwith the folded edge. This, however,
it gives a golosh too long, and
is not
correct
a
as
way,
the golosh is fitted,does
in front
which, when
curve
a
G
not
originallydesigned. Then
represent the one
is certainly
is often
selected
a
as
pivot-point, and
as

minus

This

to

would

retain

CH,

be

its correct

length

and

correctly expressed by five-twelfths

lasting-over allowance.

of

the

joint-line

GRADING.

AND

PATTERN-MAKING

point 3,*
this point is

The

productive of a better-fitting
golosh.
When
used.
Fig. 125, is also sometimes
adopted, a deeper golosh wing
may
nearly

one-ninth

take

the

the

paper

of

standard

The

inch.

an

and

produced,

be

best
the

it upon

lay

155

is

process
folded

to

of

edge

golosh,putting 0
and
T (Fig.125) level with
YXra
(Fig. 125, A). Trace
while
in this position,
C to 3 (Fig. 125).
from
T to D, and
Place
the needle
point,or tip of the finger on G, and
raise the wing until
GF
is parallelto OH, the folded
from centre
of front curve
to 3, and thence
edge. Mark
to F.

be

to

Return

(Fig. 125)

on

the
as

bottom

positionand use
pivot,raising the wing until
with
F on the golosh,
tracing.

coincides

back,

Proceed

the

the

to

second

and

(Fig.125, A).

cutting

standard

the standard

Trace

for

used

and
for

first

golosh will be
excessive
spring in
the

YXo??/

as
a

similar

tracing as YXww
(Fig.125, A) will be
will now
obtained.
Seaming, stretching,etc., allowances
be made, and the golosh cut out.
See also Fig. 124.
A
is illustrated
in Fig. 125, B, the
golosh vamp
dotted
other
cut
one
dead, the
showing the vamp
marked
with
cut
spring, using S as pivot. It
vamp,
should
be noted
that the length round
edge has been
increased by the amount
will be
from
V
to P, which
foul
in lasting.
and

manner,

"

"

The
and
of

effect of

golosh

Fig. 126,

be

may

Parts

of

circular

wing,

bottom

further

obviated

Standards

vamp,

The

is

represent, by KMNO,
has
From

by

been
this
*

back
in

shown

as

whole-cut

line

found

front

strap.

crease-line

distance

point is

shoe

several

turned-in

equal

by taking

wKz
to

from

Fig.

back

shoes, etc.),and

the

in

and

vamp,

fancy-cut inserted

drawn,

This

shown

applicable to

athletic,insertion

fastened

it

the

at

seam

by cutting

are

square

comment.

principlethat

canvas,

The

edges.

tightenthe top,

to

G.

Other

no

springing the golosh is

lengthen the

to
a

the

The

goloshneed
is

type of

designs (such
is here

given

whole-cut
After

amount
distance

as

to

shoe,
line wO

the

should

the

120.

be

made.

required
GC.

156

THE

for

MANUFACTURE

turning-in is

NMK

is made,

of one-third

OF

marked

crossing
the

from

the
much

(indicatedby arrow).

The

the

proportion

line

from

Oiv

at

If canvas,

top edge.

variety is usually

standards, the volute

110, 125, 126
The

top

given to

the

the

Leather

upper.

is

varying directions,and
the

different

thus

removing

is done

the

"

during

has

"

that

according

tops of

of the

the

adopted.

be

may

Figs.

rule.

in this

respect.

and

rendered

shoes, owing
the

of

cut

to be

"

blocked

"

lasts,during the
the

to

"

lasted

"

or

to

manufacture,
which

with
efficiency

superfluous expanding properties that

if not

the

to

substance, possessingstretch in

of

curvatures

"Not

construction, and

flat

overlay.

draughting, is

of boots

their

in

employed

K0,

shape

done

be

may

Drafting,or

making

crease-line

geometrical construction,and

is of

what
"

in

the

in

variety

Drafting.

necessary
material

P, show

illustrate

Standard

made

curve

etc.,requiring

(Figs.117, 114) being

(Fig.126, P)

one

SHOES.

AND

the curve
touch
the
instep-piece,
may
or
instep-piece
facing having a suitable

an

is

BOOTS

it

would

change in
shape and measurement,
making the goods unsightlyand
uncomfortable.
To
counteract
this "giving" property of
wear

"

removed

cause

"

constant

leather,the upper is drafted during making, this operation

from
imparting a tension, strain, or draft in the upper
counter

toe, that

to

to close

together when
of the

weight

the

the

upon

tendency

from

removed

is transferred

body

is thrown

strain

insures

the

to the

the

upper,

of

the

last.

foot,and
tension

upper
the

When

the

thus

draft

or

prevents its undue yieldingand consequent loose fit. This

tendency of the opposite sides of the upper to approach
each

other

say, in the

is

usually tested

left hand

by

by taking

the

sole,and

the well-made
then

with

boot,

the

right

alternately,
gently pulling and

releasingthe leg portion

the boot.

boot

or

The

set

or

sit of the

depends

upon

of

this draft

tension.
The

instances

pattern

operation of drafting by
be
; but

assisted
such

by

making

alteration

to be

the
a

maker

may

in

modification

effective

must

some

in
be

the

based

the

upon
Much

is done

does

not

well

at

The
from

to

in the
this

stage

to

reduces

by

toe

the

series of

the

length of

from

counter

at the

back

this shortened

gives

the

make

this clear.

tension,
the

ensures

assisted
"

very

by
dead

efficient

will

"

that

that it will be

fundamental

upper
be

stuff" to

"

easy

or

tension
and

to

When

principle.

127

the

upper,

draft.
the
or

The

to be

draft
"lines

of

it will

last, but

also
toe

there

somewhere

the

pull."

up

fore

seat

is

If the

upper

is

well, and

in the

will

This

draft

be

up

line A.

tight in

will

at the

impossible,to

not

strain

extra

be very

will

pulled

(Fig. 127)

pulled

along

of

replenished by

this

and

is

to that

is

upper

sketch

upper

if
difficult,

springy

dispose of

FIG

pulls,in fact,

upper

the

length has

other

it is very

of the

bottom

from

When

draft, and
with

correctlydirected

to toe.

stretch

taking extra

An

laster.

drafting

"

so

process

the

examine

length

it

of

the idea

least assist in the

the

adopted by

are

pattern with

157

longitudinal strain, produced by dropping the upper

the seat upon
inverted
an
last,and by pullingit well
the

over

principlesthat

same

GRADING.

AND

PATTERN-MAKING

the

surplus
part.

the

obtain
waist.
waist
"

or

foul

THE

158

MANUFACTURE

It is not
to do

work

some

manufacture.

by taking

to draft

necessary

for

so

OF

would

have

causing
it is

effect of

the

undue

an

from

removed

be

erroneous

of the

the

the

from

pattern, gradually
this

would

small,

too

when

Even

seat.

constructingthe pattern,

lesseningthe

its

done

be

not

heel-measure

instep to

to its

detriment

waist, because

forme, before

by

serious

seat

making

strain

the

at

SHOES.

adopted, must

off the

amount

an

AND

well-designedpattern,and

Drafting,when

diminishing to nothing
only

BOOTS

from

measure

instep to

Y
fr~

%.

#-^fc:

i^a

FIG.128.
of the

corner

to

fit the

the

last
In

affected.

heel, thus

because

from
credit

from

last

on

the

amount

at the

instep

of the

top of

to

must

waist

the

reduce

properly.

the bottom
of

shoe, an

will

this

measurement
to

"too

left

instep and

causing the instep of the upper

soon," the inclination
thereby being
with

be
idea

an

taken

from

of

draft,"

"

and
long-heelmeasure,
joint making the upper

Sometimes

an

pattern of
the

not

back

"

and

keeping

cult
diffi-

is removed

amount

shoe

the

placed to
the

the

transverse

160

THE

and

to

scollopedthey
falls

pull round

should

the

be

placed

direction

the

to

near

catered

class of trade

the

that

the

fly is

not

the

over

to

be

pullingstrain
that

instep to heel, so

from

quarter and

If the

for.
so

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

they

instep.

FIG.129.
To
the

prevent the

curve

of the

curling of

front

the

edge

is altered

seam

clingingtendency imparted by

thus

of the
in

button-piece

direction,and

springing the button-fly

Designing the Button-piece.

After fixingthe height or depth of the vamp
required
Am
divide
the
into three
A, Fig. 128,
as
joint-width
Am, from A
equal parts, and at the division one-third
mark

Divide

n.

distance
cB.

The

that

the

heel-measure

cp is two-sevenths
top of the leg of

is four-ninths

of

the

of
the

line
the

whole

cB

so

that

heel-measure

pattern is sub-divided

line

yz

measured

these

the

from
make

so

y.

a
Through
points
outline
the
the
of
buttoncurve
forming
proportion is also
piece edge (see Fig. 128). The same
in Fig. 129.
shown

Connect

suitable

", p,

and

n.

to pass

PATTERN-MAKING

The
should

not, in

boot.
of

There

button

are

two

with

in better-class

machine),or,

graduated. Fig.
former

scollopand

marking

(Fig.129)
in

sharp as

as

lace

may
or

work,
the

shows

130

the

(hand

gouge

back

the

ways

scollopson
button-piece. They

cut

and

boot, be quite

or

one

throat

arranging the

outlined
be

the

at

curves

161

GRADING.

AND

method

of

out.

To

spring the Button-pieceand

Scollopby Gouge.
The

button

(Fig. 130)

is taken

shown.

as

of

point
the

The

end

dotted
from

to

lowered

as

shown

line.
D

is said

to

and

gouge

shown

be

in

is

X,

and

to A

and

by the
tracing is
AX6,

sprung."
test

Fig.

130

sured
mea-

fine

When
"

lined
out-

at

The

to Y.

abed

amount

A.

is inserted

traced

so

and

spring required
from

piece

it

on

continued

cYD

To
the

FI"I30.

is cut

button-fly
gouging select

out, the

complete for
fly,and mark

by 1, 2, 3, 4, and

best

effect is

produced by arranging

that

they

increase

in

This

the

or

cut

out

as

5.

The

size from

and

to D

from

bottom

the
to

scollops
the

top.

accomplished by selectingthe
and
large and small sized scollops,
sub-dividingthem in
proportionfor the interveningscollops. The shape of the
the former
be circular or elliptical,
scollopsselected may
being the easier to graduate.
graduation may

be

Graduating Scollops(circular).
the button-piece taken
from
Fig. 131, abed, shows
show
the
of
amount
The
dotted
line will
Fig. 128.
be
scollops may
prepared in a way
spring." The
smallest
The
similar
to Fig. 132.
by
scollopis made
line drawn
of a compass,
and
at right angles
means
a
"

162

to

the
marked

semi -circle

drawn

first

equal

a,

them

b, c, etc., continuing

at

the

From

semi-circle.

of the

diameter

the

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

distances

are

of

number

the

to

the

construct

d as centre
scollopsdesired, d. From
the largest scollop.
to the required size for
it passes through the lines drawn
AD, and where

of

These

first

button-fly by

the

to

be

scollops to

smaller

the

used,

and

it from

The

radius

the

This

from

point of

bottom

of the

smallest

circle

the

line

AB

is made

intersection

from

centre

the

of the

and

compass,

which

the

is

the

lengthening of

cutting.
they may
aluminium

The

When
be
as

the

is

the

way

up

each

future

by Fig.

button-flyliningmay,

in

of the

edge

the

fly

(Fig. 131),giving the

scollop is constructed.
the

button-bit,

semi-circle

the

for

taken

now

scollopand
scollopshave once

preserved
shown

fly(see AB, Fig. 131).

and

smallest

repeated the whole

leaving a slight space between

for

radii

FIG. 132.

FIG. 131

marking

from

taking
of

diameter

the

of

one-half

Join

applied direct

be

may

circle
semi-

lops.
scol-

remaining intervening

the

the

be determined

will

equal-spaceddivisions

the

of

centre

use

the

to allow

clearance

in

been

graduated
by cutting out in

133.

for

economy

in

cutting,be

PATTERN-MAKING

seamed,

being

care

button-hole

is to

suit several
a

stock

AND

used

not

to

If the

come.

GRADING.

have
lower

163

where

seam

portion is

made

the
to

sizes it enables

to be

cut.

Scollops the

in

reverse

principleto those shown in

be used, and
Fig. 132 may
if

they

bold

made

not

are

too

adaptableto run
and
turn
or
bagged
button-pieces.
"

are

"

Inside

and

outside

should
buttoned

"

"

be

made

patterns,the
having

quarter

ters
quarfor
side
out-

suffiFIG 133

cient

removed

front

allow

to

the

by

from

substance

Fig.

etc.

gives

for the
of

the

displacementthat
the

material

used

would
for

be

the

caused

fly-lining,

134

tion
illustra-

an

of this.
Side
The

Lace.

"

opening

the

inside

side-lace
should

on

of

pattern

be situated

about

one

from

the

edge, and

inch
sole
should

incline forward

to

allow

to

be

the

foot

easilyremoved

and

replaced. The

side

lace,although

not

just

fashionable
now,

is

FIG 134.

an

exceedinglyeasy

boot

to wear,

and

is the

pattern that

will

64

THE

exhibit

MANUFACTURE

the

ab shows

OF

skill of

the

Facings.
"

the

Facings

side-lace

the

on

either

piece

the

designer

opening for

In

Fig. 129,

boot.
of

outside

or

leather.

of

SHOES.

most.

stitched

be

AND

BOOTS

the

quarter

may

cut

from

thin

The

former

be

may

plainor fancy, and Fig. 135 shows

a
design for facing-marker. The marker
(Fig,136) looks well on a plain-cutshoe.
Inside
facingswill present no difficulty
in cutting.
either

Markers

for

designing

shaping of

the

of

curves

primary pattern they

Vamp

assistingin

For

patterns.

numerous

be

may

standard

the

sometimes

are

of
the
or

used.

toe-cap outlines, golosh

curves,

and

shapes for designing the

fancy-cut vamps
(usuallyin the common
trade),are also made.
Fig. 137 gives a
and
few shapes used for fancy-cut vamps,
curves,

K"
a

scollopfor
Elastic

pattern
careful

Sides.

that

the

was

an

skill ; but

in for

below
similar

the
to

lower

the

may

be

great

line

The

amount

of the

web

of

the

having

curve

of the

Fig.

of

foot

The

the

the width

for

ingress

demand

be

be

preventing the

must

to

made

during
the

at

elastic

throat

and

easy

use

the

upon

not

of the

made

to

pattern prevalent for lace

should
come
gore or gusset

heel-measure, and
ab,

pays

proper

too

line of the

that

consideration, so that

egress

curve

well

pattern

should

and

resemble

elastic-side

an

used

gusset, thus

pattern
The

the

the

strands.

sidered
formerly con-

was

task, requiring little

easy

attention.

provision

boots.

It

"

cuttingof

it is

of
elasticity
come

boot.

button

129.

be

This

pitchedforward,
will

enable

the

PATTERN-MAKING

of the

strands

rubber
the

falls upon

that

The

boot.

the

spring should
with

angles
the

web

the

during

the

line

be at

correctlyfits
of

which

putting

strain

and

on

off of

of

rib.

the
elastic-side

an

foot, to make

the

elastic

an

of the

direction

right

Assuming
from

165

top line of

the

gore.

standard

lie in

to

front

the

GRADING.

AND

it

is to

pattern

the

adaptable to

side, one-ninth

of

inch

an

be

cut

ments
require-

should

be

FIG. 137
taken

the

from

giving
The

top,back

the

web

and

Derbies.

"

design,the

pattern for
principalpoints to
The

latchet,and
material

the
be

to

height of

shape

this from
The

the

of the

width

third

of

the

width

of tab

be remembered

toe

end

toe

this

observed

vamp,

the

property.
reference

by

to

on

There

that

the

of the

are

several

this

plan

vamp

may

method
when

of
difficulty

the

be

the

taken

is to
made.
foot

ways

its
of
on

one-third

position of

the

or

of the

be drawn

and
counter-height,

of the

tion
selectab

substance

line may

vamp.

joint-line. Another
two-fifths

the

being

patterns, together with

will locate

tab

difficult to

not

width
The

corners.

the

the

style is

be

variations.

deciding the height of

from

of the

from

cut

nature, will demand

standard

its

to exert

be obtained

may

ment,
measure-

Fig. 146.

of the correct

the

opportunity

an

principlesof designing

to p. 178

front,reducing it in

and

of

vamp.
as

make

one-

the

It should

entering this

66

increased
not

AND

great,if due provisionbe

the joint of the foot ; and

of

passing in

BOOTS

is

of boot

kind

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

as

joint-width

the

only

correct

is

width

this

tab, but

This
a

for

made

not

greater.

of

SHOES.

the

is
difficulty
will

correct

sitate
neces-

height

of vamp.
If

cutting

direct

to

forepartshould be marked
vamp-height may also be
to the

joint

table

of

give the height when

Fig.

138

last,the

the

on

obtained

distances

greatest width

top of the

front.

by adding, say,

given

on

of the

one

p. 114, which

The
inch
will

made.

will illustrate

twofold

method

of

designing

THE

68

MANUFACTURE

BOOTS

OF

AND

SHOES.

goloshed derby is designed upon the same

plan,only
provisionmust be made to allow leg or quarter to pass to
A

outside

of vamp.

provision should
between

the

If
be

outside

ethe
made
and

boot

is to

for the

be

leather

to
stiffening

lining,because, unless

lined, due
be

placed

the upper

PATTERN-MAKING

be very

stretchy or light,wrinkles
boot.

made-up
the

former

with

Caps

addition

of

should

be

similar

seamed

; unless

of the

used
a

quarter. For
inside

better

Lining

and

upper,

leather.

the

cuttingup
seams,

the

stiffeners

(where

spring in them,

liningshould

to

put
on

for mode

foul material

Lasting

and

the

back
be

gives

advantage

in

Cutting-out.
allowances

as

leather

of

making,
be

when

for

linings,
such

as

with

cut

Shoe

made.

at the

seam

or

during

This

to

with

not, for comfort, have

Seams, Underlays,

contraction

linings should

prevent

buttoned

quarters should

such

necessary,

Whole-cut

etc.

be

made

be

little extra

over,

Fig. 134.

chapter

and
materials),
non-stretching

sewrounds,

in

with

standard

placed at

two

can

See

should

Patterns

be

boots

outside, as shown

and

fit to

buttoned

will

straight,

foot, while

the

from

for the

closing. A seaming-allowance

the

wider.

quarter

quarter, to allow

in

or

narrow

front, especiallyif

the

on

of

produced

are

found

pointed

to be

appear

underlay

given

either

169

be

would

appearance

the latter it would

Patterns

be

may

the

giving

Quarter
the

GRADING,

AND

back.

Allowances.

SEAMS.

Light top-band seams

Glaces, gloves,kid, etc
Levants,

stouter

.......

................

"

kids, calf,etc

Kips, stout levants,

Fabrics, all kinds

inch.
3'2
,'g

.......

calf, etc

stout

-an

.............

..........

"

..................

"

UNDERLAYS.
of

Light leathers, single rows

double

stitching

.........

"

"

rows

"

Stouter

leathers
"

............

"

punching
derbies, punching,

............

"

"

"

etc.

...

...

...

"

"

LASTING.

Sewrounds, glaces,etc
,.

fabrics,machine-

"

Machine-sewn,
"

Discretion

etc.

.........

welted

foreparts

riveted

seats

"

"

should

T3g
\

................

patent, handsewn,

stouter, from

be

given

......

......

"
f

.........

to the

nature

of the

"

,,

"

"

leathers

used:

be

to

made

not

do

work

is

considered.

The

"

cutting

There

of

is

be selected

requirements, but
chief

portion

no

made, that

is

adaptable to

of

of the

from

should

be

else it is difficult if not

heel.

is

The

excessive

bespoke.

lasts throws

the throat

arch
boot

of the

feature
that

suitable
the

shape, etc.,that

the
the

suitable

often

for the

foot,
fit

good

of

factory-

present

these

in

of its correct

out

The

average.

of the faults

usuallyone

formation
con-

only measures

impossible to produce

This

only

care.

not

departure
waist

making

pattern-making

or

also

cause

arch

the

leather

tinny

is the

discretion,thought,and

last should

springor

comfortably

patterns for bespoke

of

often

much

made

and
hard, stiff,

given measurements

requiresso

across

be

may

usually empiricallyperformed,and
to

is the

SHOES.

to have.

Patterns.

Bespoke

that

allowance

an

would

soft, yielding leather

with

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

70

relative

position.
It would

be difficult to arrange

not

constructingbespoke patterns,based

of

and

required
well

to be

here

another

to

apparatus
the

latter

of course,
the

that

refer

foot

p. 64,

on

would

type

of

peculiarconditions.
a

low

instepwill have
Again, the front

back

p. 15

high instep (see

a

rule,larger in

same

ankle

low

dimensions, and
is

thicker,and

it with

experimental
of

of 45".

angle

furnish

40.

These

are,

mind

with

to cope

with

the

have

35", while

high instep will have

large angle with the ground,while

smaller

foot

line

perpendicular

the

angle

system that would

makes

be

by X, Fig.

by

will

but

cases,

It would

contrast

illustrated

an

are

as

registeran

show

variations

and

Fig. 39,

quirements,
re-

average

needs.

would, if measured

shown

that

in

type of foot

requirements

heel-line

to

system

or

upon

such

to suit individual

extreme

enable

would

made

extreme

former

The

method

in
and

of
a

with

angle.

the

leg

is

instep
Fig. 107).

in the

in

distant

more

than

low

instep than
the

The

is found
heel

is

more

of

in

also,as

higher instep of

higher instep type

leg and calf

from

the

foot the

developed.

The

PATTERN-MAKING

flat foot

farther

being

with

rendered

comparatively

similar

to

In

absence

the

that

little

will

whether

be

foot

pattern for

40", and

about

of lasts

the

the

usual

last

these

(which

being

the

bottom

were

was

foot

waist
in

arched

drawn

on

the

given

plan, i"

38", the average

establish

the
A

follows.

number

measured

The

p. 114.

on

of TH

in

(the length
round

the

the

top

joint positions

shown

as

system

coverings.

over) were

determined

covers

may,

flat.

or

surface-area

tacked

were

J is one-third

be

(see Fig.
deciding

proportions; the joint positions on

those

p. 83, where

as

fitted with

and

with

adopted.

draft-

the

from

to

obtained

are

42".
used

are

be

estimation

broad,

or

from

lasts

on

from

flat foot will be

arched

taken

were

covers

line

narrow

that

would

style of

indicating the
the

more

last

of foot

could

Fig. 54,

assist

described

the

of the

of

proportions that
to be

Upon

taken

is

practical method,

the
facilities,

of such

precaution be
draft
49). The

The

in

with

foot, so

require

some

experience,be judged

the

the

type

if

easy

illustrated

the

last and

than

of the

recording

them

last the waist

heel-angle would

40"

The

43".

in

is thinner

comb

say,

that

be noted

the

and

to

from

foot,

foot is

the arched

while

ground,

the

with

varies

ground

experimentsand comparing

these

making

arched

with

the

nearer

the last,it should

42"

the

171

away.

In

foot

from

the ankle

height of

GRADING.

AND

Fig. 60,

of the

lasts

last).

connecting

bottom

top and

When
the
covers
joint-positions.
removed
and
laid flat upon
the cutting-board,
the
were
obtained.
angle of the jointline to the base was
average
fixed by joiningthe end of the
Similarlythe toe-line was
to the Zas"-length,
the seat-end
marked
from
cover
upon
the base line.
The
table of allowances
given on p. 125

used, and

were

in

examining

that

as

the

the

relations

joint girth of

when

laid

and

the rule

flat,was
was

It

'average obtained.

an

thus

of these

the

distanced
obtained

last

was

also

surface-area

observed,

coverings,

increased, so the toe-line,

farther
for

from

the

base

fixing this point on

line,
the

172

MANUFACTURE

THE

pattern.
trouble

enable

To

as

illustrated

in

data

these

to

which
based

has

be

AND

used

SHOES.

with

as

little

designed,and

to

be

is

useful

is

Fig. 141.

Constructor.

designing of
Being

BOOTS

possible,a specialtool

Pattern

from

OF

"

This

tool

to

bespoke pattern, especiallywhen

the
upon

upper

will

average

be

made

cannot

requirements,

be
it may

aid

the

the

last

obtained.
also

be

PATTERN-MAKING

used

when

the

being

made

last is

; ab

made,

is

is made

It may

from

173

in.
X

of

zinc, German

be obtained

y 4

from

At

6.

from
to

tions
deduc-

or

specialrequirements.

13, in. long.

being

is 8 in., and
*

GRADING.

obtainable, the additions

to suit the

tool

The

AND

right angles

The

in.

Messrs.

distance
This

nium
alumi-

silver, or

will

Chapman

"

to

from
make
Hall.

this

be is

b to X
y

equal

174

in

length, when

From

would

is situated

the

of

11

to

-|in.

1,

are

make
one-shoe

top is If in.

BOOTS

The

an

as

of

shown

made

and

angle

of

size

AND

6 to

from

divisions

from

distances

line at

measured

towards

numbered

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

size

-f in.

11

adult's

last.

are

made

and

in illustration.

numbered.
50" with

(|-in.)from

joint line

SHOES.

from

ab
a.

From

The

toe-

continued.
From

is made

T
at

to
an

176

Method

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

of using the constructor.

Upon a suitable sheet
the

laid,and

two

lines

for

placed

next

is

marker

until

placed

the

Keeping

the

height

adult
the

on

division

reaches

the

that

so

are

the

drawn

SHOES.

at

of the

is

constructor

right angles

required is
deductions
are
previously alluded to
is
of the forepart). The
constructor

thickness

the

AND

of paper

cb ; ba,

b the

(Fig. 142). From

measured
(making

BOOTS

base

in

size 8

heel

at

the

back

height of the heel

this position,lower

line ab.

This

of

the

marked.
the

is letter J

tool

(Fig.

FIG. 145.
The

142).

tool

is made

to

coincide

at

with

J,

and

the
to the base line a", and
portion is lowered
of the joint line indicated
While
direction
Fig. 143.
the eight length is marked
the
in this position,
off from
the tool moved
front of the tool, and
backwards
along
the

back

ab until
level

the

with

of

bottom
the

the

(see T, Fig. 141)

is

tool is
The
Fig. 143.
b (Fig. 141) is on
the
next
placed so that the corner
height of heel positionS (Fig. 144), and the base passes
The
direction
of the heel
through J.
(here 42") is
shown
in Fig. 144.
lines TJZ" ; Js;
marked
off as
The

8,

as

shown

toe-line
in

PATTERN-MAKING

AND

Ttf; Jn; bsc in Fig.

sH;

The

completed.

now

width

less
from

of

to

n.

o, the

it from

through

measure

towards
The

toward

Lines

drawn

found.

joint girth

By taking one-half
point t is obtained.

X.

in

will

145

measure

H
6

one-half

F,

to

top edge

XH

and

stages

measuring
half- heel

of Hs

is indicated

base

to

last,

marked

the

the

of the tool

centre

from

the distance

and

From

perpendicular to
and

the
of the

of Jn

The

H.

177

illustrate

tread, is taken, and

the

is marked

measure

GRADING.

6.

db

are

From

point 2 will be
(L, Fig. 141) is placed

FIG. He

(the height of pattern required) and the edge

(db,Fig. 141) kept level with cb (Fig. 145). The line
F6c
is then
is repeated at point 2, and
This
drawn.
the line 1, 2, 3 drawn.
The
points 1 and 3 are found
for
by using one-fourth of the ankle-girthmeasurement
6

on

either
half

an

side
inch.

One-half
5

and

of 2.

Connect

either
7

From

straightlines,as

side of

(Fig. 145).
shown

3
s.

The

to

The
of the

measure

centre

leg
points may

in the

of 4

measure

be

constant
8

is

of

point 8.

will

give

connected

by

illustration,preparatory
N

MANUFACTURE

THE

178

positionmay
here

at

Designing
will be for
is

the
of

34"

in

from

with

necessary

SHOES.

The

curves.

the

by drawing

Elastic-side

ladies' size 4

remaining
42"

be found

AND

instep

long-heelmeasure

to Js.

an

illustrated

(measured

of the

formation

the

to

BOOTS

OF

Fig.
s)

The

146.

of

heel-line

The

pitch-linesJ.

the

for

line

length

first

The

"

pattern and

of the

third.

Pattern.

sH

description
high heel, and

Js

is

two-thirds

4's last ; and

J 'a is

is made

angle

at

ankle

The

is

an

found

as

FIG 147

described

in

leg,except
than

the

After

the

the

curves,

that

previous paragraph, also

it is made
^ in. less at the

measurement

of one-fourth

measurements

of

points
and

the

thus

the outline

obtained,

be
as

The

top of the leg 1, 3 is divided

2, 3,

into
obtain

in

Fig. 147).

four
the

The

equal parts, and

centre

of the

the

line
N

connected
shown
into
N

from
to

gusset

is

connect

top

of the

and

front

back

leg

joint heel, etc.,have

should

located

of

the

measure.

been
with

made,
proper

in the illustration.
four
to

parts (referto
is also divided
of these.

one

with

D.

To
On

PATTERN-MAKING

either

side of D

with

the

will

be

the

AND

mark

sub-divisions
shown.

To

it

where

the

correct

crosses

of
for

pattern

this

P, which

is the

the

that

line
The

By joining

will

ee

147

with

shows

is
the

elastic

an

in

s,

to

explain

difference

the

heel, and

from

passes

Fig.

HO,

of

centre

diagram

pattern.

lower

ee*

obtain

top of the leg,the gore-line

the position of the bottom
of

obtain

position.

remainder

179

of the

crescent, connect

and

in. and

GRADING.

and

curve

also includes
The
illustration
positionshould be noted.
shoe
this system.
the designing of a garibaldiand
upon
The height of the front is regulated by V.
The top of the
line T is connected
with V by a straight line which
passes
to A.

This
Make

vamp.

guide

in

H.

line

TS,

may

be

in the

line
the

of

the

of

in

measures

to

the

etc.,the

vamps,
and

If men's

the

of

for
do

to

various

an

will

give

by taking

from

over

the

crosses

the

shoe

length
of

CD,

pattern

has

half

Fig. 120.

as

standard

or

patterns have
reproduce the
be
which

should

this

of

the
last

the

made.

features

of
the

to

set

is intended.

be

simple, yet
In scaling

trade.

the

between

to be

adaptable
the

parts
round

it

below

find the

To

way.

inch

an

top of the

the

of the

" in each
inch

of

needs

difference

work, mark

t Seven-ninths

must

of

gives,where

measurement

various

distance

is

inch

one

initial

set

selected

grading, the

the

scale

adaptable

usual

series of

or

proceed

the

in

method

last

the

standard, and

The

this
is found

curve

take

After

of

P to D

C, and

set

line.

The

x.

vamp,

direction

or

B, and

to

the

be

dotted

in

completed

produced, a

lasts

shown.

may

point

Every pattern

or

curve

passing from

"

the

the

in the

Grading.
been

from

shoe

the

shown

wing

line

of

line

crease

or

this plan by
produced upon
and
connecting this with
height required,!

"

making

of

fold

of VC.

Shoes.

as

represents the

making

one-third

T,

line

standard

such

as

length-lineof

the

should

be

side of the
one-fifth

gusset central line,

of the instep girth is

fully

mended.
recom-

i8o

THE

OF

MANUFACTURE

AND

BOOTS

SHOES.

The

length of the last,on the size-stick plan,

is measured
by taking the shortest distance through the
in grading parts the ratio of the part to the
last, and
last should
be
originalor standard
strictlymaintained.
If an
through the last, then the
imaginary cut be made
relation of the proportion to the length of the last,or the
understood.

distance
measured

in

their

must

be

start

on

their

length,should

the

is

make

entirety

proportionedto
axial

pattern, which
This

remembered

be

round, may

the

line, but

do

shoes

from

of
the

last,and
the

that

EF, would
The

AB.

ratioed
round
of

the

point.

therefore

The

line

from

what

will

the

last.
be

to

patterns graded,
the

assist

is the

has

that

desire

from

cut

AB

Parts

standard

the

standing
under-

length-lineof

been

said it follows

vamp-height or depth CD, and the golosh depth

be regulated by the proportion it is of the line
the other
hand, be
vamp-wing V would, on

not

the

by

the

last from

standard
To

be"

this

line

round

the

the

axial

the standard

if the

study

parts

throughout

length of

boot
originalor standard
pattern. The diagram, Fig. 148,
like

last.

distance

to

made

boots

or

the

continue

not

the

that

imaginary

to the

be ratioed

important point

an

this

on

length of

the

represents

by noting

but

length-lineAB,
A

to

by

B, corresponding

pattern without

put the parts affected

the
in

the
to

the

lastingover

tabular

distance

length
ance.
allow-

form, it would

PATTERN-MAKING

PROPORTIONED

BY

AND

LAST

THE

GRADING.

PROPORTIONED

BY

LENGTH.

great obstacle
The

alluded

cap).

Stiffeners

(lengths).
goloshes (lengths).
openings.

Back
Shoe

in

regular gradation

to

breaks

and

lengths (vamp

Wing

patterns is the irregularlast-measurements

factories.

STANDARD

THE

LENGTH.

Vainp depths.
Toe-cap depths.
Stiffeners (depths).
Back
goloshes (depths).
Shoe
heights at back.
The

181

between

of

calculation

to, require the

in

sizes

the

upper

in many

use

of the

some

the

already
For

cutter.

instance, if the grading of the heel girth according to

of these

modifications
5

men's

The

of

irregular scales
in

and

grade

of

grade

the

of

size

same

would

then

be

inch

an

attempted,

be

measurements

far

-fyas

the

as

size

the

between

be

youths', would

in

one

size 2, it

" in"

being

less at this break.

There

them

are

do

methods

many

give

not

in

in

use

others

results, while

correct

empirical that they depend entirelyupon

obtained.

results

apparent

them, it will be well

selected

for the

lasts

the

on

small

joint and

width

various

Before

parts of the
of sizes increase

range

instep girths,and

increases

anc^ the

^2

grade for the upper

arranged as follows :

that

waist

portion

of

the

Total

grade
grade

Increase

an

the

tread

^g,
the

inch

J of

then

to

pattern

Increase

half

With

-Jto

the

like

manner.

The

top

the

between
bottom

or

the

obtain

it should

be

portion

size to

the

leg.

heel

girthand

For

other

Instep.

\ in.
^,,

...

Jin.
T's

T25

"

...

fg

"

Tj

"

...

fa

"

pattern

of the

be

...

to the

dimensions

"

ankle, and

proceed in

Comparative System of grading is useful in supplying

patterns
some

of sole at

to the

of

"

of last at

to upper

so

are

for any

user

Joint.

Total

of

examining some
what
grade should
pattern. Suppose

understand

to

trade ; many

the

to

part

or

complete
other

those

already

missing.

in existence

It is also

that

adaptableto

have
obtain

182

MANUFACTURE

THE

of

set

standard

if used

of

illustrated

the

system suitable
conjunction with

in

some

Fig.146

other

Modus

is

system, owing

obtainingtwo

147

or

of lasts from
found

are

for

grading patterns,but

some

that

It is a

in

SHOES.

AND

variations

many

of measurements

scale

establishments.

that

suit

patterns to

patterns

BOOTS

OF

; it is

the

some

scalingchildren's
such

system

as

method

good

very

usually discarded
to

in

favour

in

of

experienced
difficulty

patterns exactly alike

in

in

general character.

operandi.
After

the

been

have

parts
suitable

first.

make

After

the

out, put

stencil

the

smaller

that

also
the

points on
lines.

If

the

marked

on

the

shown

as

patterns

must

positions

of

grading

Fig.
the

taking
for

marked

will

and

marked,

Similar

149.

with
be

measures

not

two

be

to

connected

be

now

of

largest

been

first

one

in

be

the

position as

standards, this

two

the

difficulty.If

the

sheet

has

other

or

marking

"

such

in

one

round

two

on

larger pattern

readily distinguished from

trace

them

obtained, lay

to

paper

pattern

standards, quarters, vamps,

two

afford

parts,

any

such

as

should
be connected
Fig. 149, then the corners
o?XO
and
zZO,
as
shown, producing them
as
will
The
meeting in point O.
point of intersection
whole
for making radial lines for the
give th^ centre

WXYZ

in

the

of

back

found

the

for

the

two

parts

as

there

also tfT in the

The
a

pattern, leavingthe
addition
various
correct

line

or

to

will

the

similar

be

by keeping
by cutting

same

sub-divided

into

intervening.
figure,

See

sixteenth
extra

on

of
the

an

inch

toe

to make

When

are

made

the

knife

under

to

make

either

where

the

to

is

lines

for

the

put round
the

the

increase

be

to

necessary

cutting out,
it

the

positionson
as
equal
many
Xa?, Fig. 149 ;

System of grading is supposed

pattern's length.

alterations

the

sufficient

the

is

centre

After

y.

considered

between

the

way

and

sizes

are
same

One-Sixteenth

system whereby

be

may
distances

patterns

between

curve

the

purpose,

In

z.

that

joined

are

to

the

approximately
outside
is too

of the

great.

84

MANUFACTURE

THE

springdividers
for the

data

being equal

Jf "/-"-"This will be
-""$,
length,J in. girth,and the ankle
of

distances

set to

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

size in

one

to the

joint.

Method.
Take
the

throat

the

the

throat

down

the

other

bottom.

the

throat

the

top,

"f

Leave

From

-"%.

along

of

top

the

as

compass

Put

~.

along

the

sizes.
of the

at

This

is known

error

its

alter

not

the

position for

among

it is defeated

of

of the

many

by

various

means,

given under.

is

Take

the

largesizes,while
joints are also out

The

long.

and

same

throat, giving the

the

to

the

patterns

for the

instep does

system,

of which

leg

appearance
too

the

leaves

the

of

top

look

sizes

position,and

one

toe

system

patterns a stumpy

various

mark

far

as

the

from

toe.

from

smaller

the

with

and

hack,

sixteenth

length

users

the

and

y^,

mark

distance

mark

to

the

the

this

to

set

compass

with

leg

at

The

the

in. in the

and

compasses

mark

the

up

front,

the
the back, and
from
seat
to
along the top, down
size less
the
the
of the
to
toe
one
joint. Add
Join toe to the joint. Place standard
graded standard.
one
pattern half size away from toe of the newly marked
~

and

from

seat

is left
the

top
the

of
the

the
the

on

be

curved
in front

-^

One-Fifteenth

mark

the

back,

Leave

counter.

the

at

-~

-^

or

from

the

it

volute

or

of the

System
consists

compasses

in
and

leave

back

is very

-^

the

on

front

curve.

similar

to

taking one-fifth of
then
marking that

the

one

size

amount

the

size less

To

the

above

swell

and

seat

standard

""

and

(fa in.) in

similar

marked

the

Eaise

instep to throat, graduating to the front

if
the front
of the leg,and
on
leg. Leave

described, and
round

joints.

of the

top

curve

The

the

correct

Add
top, back, bottom, and up the front.
-fa in. to the toe, correcting the joints in a

to the

grade

one

described

vamps

on

one

way

above.
these

systems

make

line

-fa

PATTERN-MAKING

from

folded

end.

Take

level

with

and

piece of
the

mark

to

then

lower

the

paper,

the bottom

portion.
are

different

the

In

the

marked

first method
the

upon
from

the

taken

and

traced

is added

in. at the

toe
on

These

amounts

in the

as

heel

instep, J

standard

his

work

of

"Last

pattern

is taken

toe

end

toe

| in,

standard

the

toe-line

the

heel,

and

while

in

top

first mark
this

and

that

doing

bottom.
first

this

is level

position mark
the joint. Now
shift
lowering the
appears,

lower

ruled
A

of paper,

Shift
dot

on

the

and

from

the

top

until

as

paper
until

is
the

outline.

visible,
toe

at

When

toe-line

until

the

second
on

as

towards

the

first

dots

far

of

the

now

While

the
back

the

the three

pattern

traced

back

line

is

the

the

standard

upon
line is

From

standard

The

with

the

is

and

Pattern

through on the paper.

round
positionmark

this

the

ankle.

marked.

are

marked.

marked
is in

so

in.
-""

suitable sheet

the

this horizontal

On

to toe.

also

joints,

"

separate

is

standard

the

the

two

the

and

ankle.

counter

an

points.

joints,toes, instep,heel, and

placed upon
in the

at

lines

from

of

line, and

at

and

also drawn
the

-g-

Fitting

The

from

line

line from

the

shiftingsystem,

the

is

are

is then

One-ninth

heel, and

follows

it at

in

pattern

and

used

Cutting something as
standard

use

and

toe-counter

various

type
upon

"

get

placed to the credit of

pattern is completed by using

the

is another

to

and

The

to connect

The

of the

the

pattern

centre,

paper,

grade

divided

are

the

in

length of

the

of

standard.

the

at

respectiveparts.

described

vamp

empiric.

each

of

end

The

the

Hannibal's

the

standard

the

counter.

sheet

end.

toe

the

front

with

of the

the

curves

at

the

to

at the

"/Q at

the

standard

drawn

counter

inch

throat

using

the

put

half -size to the

curve,

right-hand

is level

toe

being employed by

ruled

the

and

Shifting Systems of grading in

many

localities

Put

185

at the

graded
the

the half- wing.

There

mark

while

complete

be

GRADING.

% mark,

and

wing

and

paper,

vamp

the

of the

crease

AND

the

to

dot
toe

86

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

traced

touches

the

Again

shift

of the

back

standard,

to

the

out

if

pattern

joint. Cut

until

the

appears.

the

as

of

and

in. is shown

the

with

of the

toe

instep. Shift
from
instep to

the

to

line.

horizontal

distance

bottom

the

lower

then

ankle,

far

dot

second

instep.

instep to the top

in.
Shift again until
top of the leg. Trace

the toe in line

the

dot

the

trace

satisfactory,

System is practisedunder

Geometrical

The

as

Mark

outline.

traced
the

back

instep, keeping

the

at

standard

the

Lower

the

the

as

third

to

the

to

far

as

trace

top.

throat

joint

the

from

SHOES.

AND

from

until

also the

the

from

the

down

Mark

standard

Trace

leg.

is shown

line.

positionmark

this

in

While

the

BOOTS

several

names

Radial, Parallel Rule, Tool, SetProportional,

but in principle
etc.
Square,Sector, Proportional-Compass,
results exactly are
The
is the same.
same
produced by
such

"

the

as

"

all these

instruments, and

derived

from

the

grading

width

101, if the

to

corresponds
machine

underlying

understood, enabling the

system

also to the result

described
be

adjustments
*

truth

mathematical

it

set

this
to

on

to

be

The

zero.

method

99

pp.

should

adapted

to

be

many

graded upon the

operations with intelligence.Patterns
geometric or proportionalsystems have all the parts scaled
in true proportion. If the ratio of the joint,instep,
heel,
ankle, leg,height,etc.,be expressed in terms of the lengthline,then
alluded

all the

words, the

be

will

to

preciselythe same
grade is always in

in
of

amount

above

the methods

patterns produced upon

In

ratio.
the

other

ratio to

same

length-unitincrease,as the proportionexistingbetween

this it will be
length and the portion graded. From

the
the

readily deduced
the

that

the

greater the grade.

where

custom,

for all

used

the

larger the fittingof

But

same

this does

unit

fittings.The

of

conform

not

grade

the

is

pattern
to trade

supposed

patterns graded upon

to

the

portional
pro-

system in its strict applicationis usually found

be in
*

Euclid

from

error

The
and

demonstration
the

sixth

the

lasts at the
of this theorem

proposition.

instep;
will

be

and

found

the
in

the

be

to

top of the
sixth

book

of

PATTERN-MAKING

leg is

scaled

in

AND

different

unit

GRADING.

than

is

187

customarilyadopted.

taken
the various
measurements
at which
are
positions
proportionto the length and the lengthare also graded in true
of the system may
be understood
unit used.
The application
of an
by taking an example, with a standard
upper.
The

the

Take
set

from

which

it is desired

and

geometric method,

the

on

standard

trace

grade

to

its outline

with

F 16.ISO
a

fine line

C, D

E,

on

is the

towards

sufficient
number

sheet

pattern.
the

length beyond

point

is

that

it is best

AE,

and

to cut

as

are

the

to make

the

point

many

standard

the

to

now

little where

matters

line

of the

toe

of sizes

radial

of paper
as
Fig. 150, where A, B,
Make
the counter-height
a line from

A, continuing it

pattern

to mark

thereon

the

required in grade. A central

be
in principle it
found, and
point is placed; but for convenience
it

some

selected

of the

curves

fractional
should

part

also

of the

be

of the
venient
con-

pattern

as

88

THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

sharply as possible. This will usually be attained by

of the length AE
E
from
selecting the point one-third
then
(seeG, Fig. 150). A shoe size (ifEnglish measures,
\ in.) is to be divided into the same
proportion as the
line, and

toe-counter

and

In

to

the

150

size is

whole

\ in., and
results

compare

on

the line from

the

toe

which

it is intended.

drawn

at

mark

a,

as

Connect

etc.

the

when

to the
At

paper

of

as

with

cut

the

constructed
This

standard

A,

line

for
Aa

is

A, in the direction

required,1, 2, 3,

are

E,
to

E, for

done.

the

say

From

sizes

of

(Fig. 151) is
equal in length to

end,

to AE.

been

been

of paper,

one

be

required.

in. for

of

line AE

counter

points

has

credit

now

has

outside

sizes

the

to

what

shoe

many
these

other

tool should

piece

right angles

placed

-|in.,making

follows:

as

separate

with

tool is made

drawn

at

radial

for the

placed

amount

increase.

radial

of

subdivisions

A, repeating them

Fig.

each

the

the

illustrated,and

as

lines 3E, EA,

and

FIG.151.
Aa, it is ready for
radial
tool

centre

To

use,

G, in Fig. 150, and

with

level

use.

the

line AE.

put

lay
Where

the
the
the

end

edge

AE

toe, A,

at

the

of the
crosses

(Fig. 151), H/i gives the grade from A (Fig. 150).

Lines
radiating from G will be drawn
through the
principalpoints desired to be graded (see Fig. 150, GB,
GO, GD, etc.). If continuing to use the radial tool,the
E
end
of it should
be placed upon
the radial centre
G,

at

and

where

the
the

portion

of

distance

of the

base-line

pattern

crosses

to

be

the

radial -line

graded,

the

at

the

transverse

of grade.
give the amount
If the pattern be prepared as described
above, and
the
the amount
from
of proportionalgrade be marked
in Fig. 150, the remaining points
points AE, as shown
be found
without
using or making the radial tool.
may
the
the
After
from
radiating lines have been drawn
G
the various
to
centre
points required, a set-square
tool will

be

may

used

B, C, D,

at

the

Place

etc.

while

straight-edge

to

the

slide

the

Then, where
radial

the

Instead

of

One
laid
in

the

the

on

the

rule

to

the

top

half

the

rule

fully
care-

point already
required grade will
give the same
the parallelrule,

the

set- square,

but

it is not

the

or

tool,

radial

convenient

so

to

use.

trated
illus-

proportionalcompass,
by Fig. 152,

instrument

is

the

to

be

can

for the

Fig.

6 in. be

here

method
If

150.

the

One
of the points used
grade previously marked
be used.
two points may

line AE

each
or

grade

to

used, it will

to divide

useful

very

pattern cutter,

applied

amounts

in

any

be

to

the

exactly as

The

the

and

fingers put
portion of
from
moving;

it

will

sector

results

as

given.
A

of

be

the

of the
to

found, and

the

should

bottom

keep

moved

employed.

rule

and

Fig. 150,

firmly

be

points, such

the

to

new

set-square

may

of

edge

crosses

B, the

the

parallel rule

'0

is found.

grade

of

amount

of

is reached.

at A

from

it to

one

set- square

line

and

paper,

until

"

the

hold

keeping

"

as

square,

the

set- square

venient
con-

Firmly

straight-edge
graded divisions

the

and

set

Fig. 150.
straight-edgeto

the

be

one

in

shown

of

put

other

of the

side

relation

this

in

side

points* of
(Fig. 150),

AB

as

189

grade

one

two

to

pattern, such

and

the

obtain

to

set-square

the

GRADING.

AND

PATTERN-MAKING

time

trated
illuscompass

be

sary
neces-

into two

must

have

found, otherwise

FI6.I52,

MANUFACTURE

THE

igo

OF

BOOTS

equal parts,instead of the usual

of larger size be used,
compasses
from

depart

to

the

loosen

and

the

rule

nut

C,

the

standard

legs

ab shall span

nut

should

AB

are

then
made

(Fig.150), and

is

but

adapted

it retains

conforms

the

sets

span

to

of lasts that

unit

have

of

grading.

measurements

should

method

to

the

legs db, the required

other

prevent

the

the

upon

various

breaks

in

trade

them, it is

method

of

table
the

size-stick
of

measurement

used

be

to

valuable

very

described

one

the

positions

principle.This

different

places
the
on

the

on

toes,joints,
the standard

following mode

the

then

graded,

from

made

pattern. The positionsof

instep,heel,ankle, and leg being indicated
about

measurements

the

as

the

on

geometrical

locatingthe positionsof

adopted, such

be

better still,a
p. 114, or,
the back
from
located
on

last and

GA

as

and
regularityof appearance,
If it be thoroughly understood, it
grade,English or foreign,and for

on

will

line,say

the

lasts.

for any

be used

compass
it until the

remove

radial

any

the

by using

used, while

can

to

adapted System is founded

method,

the

is found.

grade
The

be necessary

not

Take

trial

pair of

legs AB is equal to the length of

the
time
(Fig. 150), and at the same
the number
of sizes to be graded. The
be fastened
rather
tightly. The legs

AE

then

if

But

it will

down.

by

and

three.

SHOES.

the

between

distance

laid

AND

will

be

:
"

Carefully mark
of paper

sheet

making the
previously
on

be not

taken

it is

method

to

the
a

across

the

imperative

pattern
table

and

pattern

that
the

For

last.

last

be

to

are

graded,

have

that

Select

this

ment
measure-

identical,even

of location-distances.

been

in

accuracy

positionsof

the

suitable

upon

recommended,

as

from

standard

of the

outline

an

lines

the

round

if it

suitable

(which is usually either the seat of the

and from
this point
pattern or the counter-height line),
radial lines ; *in Fig. 153 will be the point selected
draw
this point
draw
the
for the present description. From
radial
the central
line
Aa, and from
point also make
point as

centre

the

line to C.

From

mark

either

side

as

many

sizes

as

MANUFACTURE

THE

192

same

This

illustrated
has

is the

line

obtained

in the

in

made-up

boot

it adds

but
the

round

upper

an

is

toe

extent

the

shortened, very

often

in

the

last.

Another

of the

front

upon

the

the

bottom

in of the vamp

Blocked

fronted

curve

of the

is the

case,

way

this

patterns

Remedied.

the

the

be

often

the
This

laster

in

are

error

toe

of the

makes

short

better

draft.

when

upper

front

are

not

way

of

of the

down
often

the
cut

that

the

the

be
of

front

seam

bottom
is

waist

is

tight

off the

straightening

throws

strain

the

increase

length

lasting.

If not

remedying

the

golosh caused
front

to

reverses

acute

of

done,
over-

falling
through

of the

pattern.

in the front

blocking pattern,and
remedied
by adopting in a
at

with

matter

when

and

curved

vamp,

lasted

the

is the

too

the

in

feather.

This

vamp.

some

dealing

sit clear

not

the

by

material

along

when

front

curve.

top of the

back

practice of straightening the

are

the

An

"

producing a

if the

does

useful

rounding

parts

suitable,and

practised

but

goods

it may

is that

upper

so

being too sharp

curve

obtained

patent, it will be

of the

of the

or

been

other

Any

clearlylasted

often

seam,

edge

standard.

It

liningsdo

however, it is
the

of

above

curve

front

that

of the

made

error

YT

the

pattern be made dead, it

of the previous error.
The

lengthened, the edge

lasting,and

than

feather,and

effect

this

parallelto

for the last.

troubles

of the

also

where

certainlyimparts
throughout the depth of the

something of the nature

to get
extreme
difficulty
If the

has

is drawn

how

the laster in

the

of

vamp

and

much

tension
the

to

p. 180, and
the vamp
on

Fig. 153,

vamp.

false idea.

of

original boot

way.

shorter

to assist

is, however,

It

same

on

(which

vamp

standard

too

curve

supposed

the

cutting of patterns

is sprung

seam

of

line from

to

in

SHOES.

the

as

grading

of

Patterns,

in the

made

The

height

AND

alluded

front

of the

Errors

Some

is

the

of

crease-line

been

demonstrated

recommended)

as

front

been

the

Through

has

BOOTS

proportion

p. 91.

on

method

pattern

and

appearance

possessed.

often

OF

this

moderate
Shoe

quarter

UNIVERSITY
OF

"#

PATTERN-MAKING

with

seam,

the idea of

is liable to
the

such

seams

and

seam

for the side

those

as

the

on

to

gallthe

foot of

and the
slippers,
often spoilt
used in Wellingtons,
are
principleof rounding or curving the

Curves

wearer.

193

the clipping
properties.It
assisting

strain

cause

GRADING.

AND

of

seams

applying the
seams
accordingto the nature of the material. Patterns
cut to formes producedon Soules or the mitre methods
are
often found to be too springyat the toe,and the front seam
is too short,owing to the neglectof not making allowances
by

not

for the

on

in

TV

openingsof the slitswhen

Fig. 120, VN is correct,but

for

patent leathers the

is too

of the

corner

suitable.

more
"

the last. For instance,

while
springy,

forme

would

be

tongues of such designsas the

The

"

Langtries are usuallytoo baggy,and this should

It
principle.
by the use of the curved seam

termed

the

across

faultyin
the

of the

its

are

the

round

than

be

medied
re-

is often

often cut to

foot,somewhat

pull
in

heel-line.
for

their allowance

cover,

bar shoes

Strap or

insteprather

the direction

of

draft."

"

latively
re-

Lining patternsare very

The
substance
stiffenings.

and
stretchiness,

the

of

mode

making
made-up

fullyweighedand allowed for. In the

boot very often the vamps, toecaps,
etc.,of the largersizes
look out of all proportionto the original
sized boot,and
this may be prevented by remembering that the relation
of the parts of the made-up boot that are
measured
throughout their entire lengthon the imaginaryaxial line
of the boot are proportionedto the length of the boot,
while the wing and other portionsthat are not so measured
have

to be

in
proportioned

are

Long Work.

supposedto be
skill.
special
and

The

"

is not

shapesof long work

initial difficultiesare
It is advisable

to

the lasted boot,and

to

cuttingof long-work patterns is

specialbranch

There

alluded

use
use

the last.

relation to the distance round

so

overcome,

the term

pattern cuttingrequiring
variation

much
in short

as

the term

of

"

"

to
"

spring

when

work, and

the rest is not

draft

"

in the

apply only to
to describe

the

style
the

so

difficult

the

of
prUfperty

here
principle

to.
O

THE

194

as

MANUFACTURE

it would

The

OF

modes

cutting the

of

be illustrated

uninitiated

the

to

appear

AND

BOOTS

various

first

on

kinds

SHOES.

of

inspection.
boots

long

may

by describingthe Field, Butcher, Coachman's,

Regulation,Wellington, and Dress Wellington. The bespoke

houses
in the cuttingof the pattern as
not so particular
are
would
be

be deemed

machine-sewn

made

shapes
practically

those

who

work

for

passage

have

heel

boot

fails to

to

The

upper.

short

cut

the

when

work,

the

One

by

cutting long

of

the

this

that

foot

the

into

of

class

it may

the

for

made-up
the

to

line, and

the

cut

laid,

and

height, and,

at

end

one

of the
traced.

The

one-half

of the

base-line

from

about

inch

tongue,

last at the

The

the

is in

are

given

as

The

seat.

last

the

is

counter-

of the

seat

marks

correct

on

on

the

position,the positions

this

allow

is to

The

marked

for

the

and

outline

seat.

the

The

top is

made

of

the

requires enough

for

the

allowance

heel

by the tongue
well
as
stiffening,

pattern

Constructor"

scale

The

is obtained
position-line
by taking
and
it
last's length,
along the
marking
ankle
is made
the perpendicular. The
in excess
of that obtained
by measuring

and

than

is marked.

touches

taken

lining

front

etc.

amount

smaller

with

measurement

This

foot.

styleof boot
perpendicular.

time, the jointsand

same

last

the

placesof

an

sharp,and

last.

erect

back

the

coincide

to

While

paper.

that

so

the

at

made

are

be

for this

pattern

Up this the height of heel desired

such
a
counter-height (taken from
measured
from
the
p. 138) is next

last

should

too

to the

the

Sportsman's.

method

taken

work

be

not

relation

positionin

is to draw

the

made

neglect to provide

cutting

throat, so

Elcho, Field, or

the

the

to

portion

in

of its correct

the

case

former

mistake

may

is resorted
to, and
oppositeextreme
fit in the heel, causing a sloppiness
during

Attention

given

In

they

the

Then

wear.

the

time, is

first

of the

boot.

out

only

factory,where

welted.

or

closer

the

for the

necessary

thickness

the

and
as

for the

about

substance

shape

half

of

an

of

of the
inch

calf.
may

shown

be

constructed

by Fig.

141.

by
The

the
mode

"

Pattern
of

using

PATTERN-MAKING

this

will

tool

AND

be

understood

143, 144, 145, 146, and

is. about
this

15

or

16

in.,for,say,

illustrated.

style is

lines

construction
AB

clearness.

tongue

147.

have

The

GRADING.

by referring to Figs. 142,

The
height of this design
In Fig. 154
seven.
a size
preliminary
unnecessary

been

omitted

heel-line

is the

is needed

for

195

CD

and

this

for
the

design.

the

sake

calf.

The

of

fold
four-

inclination

c
F

154.
Fig.
will
of

be

one,

varied

the
of
the

to the

kind

of

This

boot

may

adopted.

golosh or
to make

as

vamp

and

opening
rule being that
the leg below
D,
heel-measure.

too

from
the

low
F

down
in

and

cut

the

be

taken

leg of

1 54

should

strap

want

or

with

should

Fig.

distance

buckle

be

Care

quarter.

the

making-system,

the

to the
not

be

is used

whole
not

pattern,

other

side

less than
to

fasten

196

the

opening

It is well

inside.
boot

the

which

E,

at

to

to

assume

an

has

incline

the

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

gusset-tongue
top

forward

upright position at

allow

to

the

the

on

top when

made.

Wellington.
The
it

fronts

are

is customary

the

From

front.

leather

usually purchased ready blocked,

direct
to
to
apply the measures
throat

one-half

and

the

the

of

heel

155.
Fig.
is marked

measure

of the

top one-half

joined
from

with

the

"fg in.
where

The
way
AB

direction

the

calf

make

the

At

curved

height is about
of proceeding

is made

of the
is

measurement

straight cut.

bottom,

Another

in

line
13

placed;

distance

to

is illustrated

full heel-measure

this

2J

of

is
in.

distance

some

14

the

At

seat.

for
in
and

of

seven's.

Fig. 155,
AC

some

PATTERN-MAKING
less.

4- in.

GH

EF

is the

ins.

from

the

materials

and

out

is made

calf, the

some

AND

the

same

centre

from

GRADING.

the

bottom.

be

not

P.

heel-measure.

EF

The

straight-cutline is
-^ in. for lighter.

Wellingtonwill

the

as

being

197

taken

amount

about
The

is distanced

in. for

stouter

cutting of a dress
a
Wellington can

when
difficult,

be

properly cut.
Fig. 156
gives a made-up long boot (a
dress

Wellington),and

show

what

is

positionof

the

correct

leg. The side

straight when

be

must

seam

the

will

made.

ButeJier.

This,
and

and

the

jockey,

15

to

nearly the
They may
making
sheet

design.
designed by

be
line

on

erecting a
angles to the

line

end

of

drawn

edge

of the

to the

omitted,
full

to the

The

throat

seat

is the

the

long

to

pattern
the

and

over

would

the
be

the

trousers

the

that

The

2^ high.
to

so

case

the

needs

of

does

not
a

the

top

applied
If this position
distance
equal
now

consideration.

it

for the

applied

to

point

from
the

in. from
throat

the

the

to

measure

curve

in.

requires adapting

in

about

is made

counter

calf

with

of

from

The

intended

allowances

made

now

measurement

heel-measure.

measurement

taken

back,
in

same

suitable

one-half

is

at

is made

for

under

case

the

is

measure

place it

with

line

drawn

measure.

the

of

measurement,

tracing.

calf

is to

etc., is taken, and

counter,

the

rule

good

heel-measure

heel

The

line

the

from

positiongiven

is measured

point a
height of

The

The

pattern.

last

this

at

and

the

of

length

the

determined,

now

FIG. 156.

right

at

upright line, and

right angles to the base.
is

as

one

this

boot

as

at

first

One-half

from

be

suitable

and

at

are

in

paper,

line.

from

and

high,

same

of

made

are

in.

16

coachman

the

case,

demand

measurement

as

measure

any

allowance

taken

round

198

THE

the

MANUFACTURE

naked

leg.

quarters

to

The

difference

147.
other.
obtain

of
way
the method

use

couple of

the

seat

producing

be about

from

three-

this kind

of

design would

illustrated

lines

the

From

will

SHOES.

inch.

an

Another
be to

AND

BOOTS

OF

are

usual

of the

by Figs. 141, 142, 143, to

made
at right angles to each
to
height of heel is marked

pattern (B, Fig. 157).

Often

an

FI6.I57.
allowance

is made

here

for

the

kind

lasting" handthat the positionof leg in making

sewn
or
so
be easily obtained.
The
is drawn
pitch-lineBA
may
either
with
the
pattern constructor
(Fig. 141) or by
of the length of the last, which
making it two-thirds
the pattern is supposed to be for.
At A the joint-line
is
machine

"

of

200

THE

MANUFACTURE

It should
a

long

pass,

the

be
the

boot

same

as

usually all
height of the

foot

line

CD

CB

is to

AB,

in

for.

is harder

approached

that

the

former

down

than

in

farther

In

idea

of

the

at

157

low,

an

for

throat, from

the

the

higher

case

the

width

latter

to

kind

flat foot the

the

the

leg of

the heel

the

boot.

angle

than

in

making

to

whereas
sufficient,

foot in the
at

SHOES.

to allow

as

is considered

clearance

provided

AND

heel,so

of the

Fig.

the

the

the

that

passage

the

that

noted

is

affects the

BOOTS

OF

ground,

By making
line

the

will

of

foot

entrance

to

case.

or

of

The

is

as

be

the foot

foot.

arched

leg

OB,

So

required

method

of

PATTERN-MAKING

fixing F in Fig. 158

applied in other long
Sewrounds.

making requiresalso
in short

work.

The

out, and

that

after

be

It may

work.

"

"

the

shoe

second-

turned, and

is sewn,

in the fit of the

inaccuracies

lasted,any

this.

provides for

also

201

of
cutting of patterns for this mode
a
specialattention not so demandable
round
fact of a
being made inside

The

"

GRADING.

AND

in the

top,or

lasting

thereof,is apparent,renders it therefore necessary, if correct

be paid to
attention
should
work
is to be made, that due
the
the

rightcutting of the upper

evil of the generalityof

Usual

the

machine-

by

cut

patterns

spring is

much

Too

for sewround-makers.

cutters

sewn

pattern.

mode

of cutting.
in Fig. 159
line AB

A
the

and

points,1
to the

last,

with

takes

is to

X2

parts, and
Aa.

for

the

like
toe

of

to

point 2, 2X

is drawn

for

parts

in

at

the

is made

A"

seam-line

curve

three

into

is made.

suitable

parts,

is divided

is made

is made

from

a,

6,

and
four

into

at

right angles

to

2.

After

shape will appear as W (Fig. 159). This

to be the best shape
pattern is supposed by many
gripping property so essential to low-cut shoes

cutting out
form

length

into three

It is divided

divided

through

in

right angles
joint of the
equal to
if a
allowance
for
lasting-over,and
it
be used, something also for the space
At

is

line

cut.

This

an

up.

from

2.

line AB.

"shover"

to

to be

size about

suitable

is drawn

these.
is too

the

It

is,however,

bad

of

form

pattern.

The

springy.

If the

like
made
the wings were
more
opening between
those of an interlocking
golosh (seeFig. 124, p, 148), much
better
better
results could
be obtained
in making, and
shoes
would
result.
It is supposed to be a
appearance
by
very difficult thing for patent leather shoes to be made
machine

without

showing (that

abomination

to

the

shoe

If it is desired to remedy this,the pattern

trade)wrinkles.
should
be right. The
waist
of a
shape of the average
"round

"

should

be

studied, so that proper

provision in

the

upper

"

pattern
this

If

sole.

pulled

of the

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

202

be

"

The

side

for the
the

done

not

SHOES.

waist

narrow

of the

cause

seams

AND

quarters

detriment

to the

across,

shoe.

made

be

may

BOOTS

are

of the
be

likely to

fittingproperties

lot of trouble

to

some

FIG. 159,
folk.
the

If the

side

present

seams

any

principle,and
of dosed

work

of

reason,

be

understood, it should

Different
difficulty.

experimented with,

and

rounding or curving

materials

the results watched.

should

not

be

PATTERN-MAKING

GRADING.

AND

203

Experiment.
Take
it

on

board,

These
Take

in

seam

the

(that is,

normal

of

need

piece
be

to

rather

the

straight,

depends

strain

Testing

several

relative

amounts.

Patterns

In

workshop.

machine

is

patterns

should

not

enlarges

the

as

that

used

the

prevents

should

pointed

awl,
should

machine

Patterns

to

pattern,

these

cut

the

marked
graver

be

of

should

found

be
as

it

of

the

of

uniformity.

is

on

the

material

to

after

be

Hartford

be

legibly

quite

closer, without

bad

often

but

materials,

used.

be

The

also

paper
hard-

fine

cut,

It

The

with

paper

shape.

making.

closely

binding

brass

pattern.
marked

and

All

its

zinc.

or

The

the

easily.

tin,

the
with

bound

be

iron,

distorts

the

in

use

metal.

round
may

to

and

and

and

making.

in

card

pasted

paper

in

of

determine

soon

may

be

oval

or

material

metal

they

may

fitting, design, etc.,

material,
way

will

will

amount

bear

to

or

comparison

be
or

leather

case

to

be

brought

seamed

piece

The
the

of

edges

round

of

across

get the

position

nature

cardboard

cut

proper

patterns

cut.

of

they

to

originally

be

former

used

are

seam

the

to

in

latter

shears

Hand

the

as

kinds

the

the

In

brass.

is

put

are

making

right

The

to

former

upon

that

and

its

resume

it

pull

seam).

bag,"

"

to

removed,

than

removal

to

the

to

down.

rubbed

and

closed

lay

length.

its

along

cut

vigorously

found

be

be

now

and

will

seam

edges

should

and

examined,

be

to

straight

hand,

them

the

material

making

pieces

two

the

of

piece

stored

increasing it,

should

seams

enough

in

having
with

the

the

to

as

convenient
be

the

last,

on

the

judgment

clicker's

want

CHAPTER

OR

CLICKING,

THE

cutting of

the

of the

of

pattern

of the

come

from

same

The

various
that

cutting,which
in

the

the

systems,

produce
the

be

would

the

not

actual
skins

be
into

cut

to

the

The

Skins

uppers.

demands

want

of

the

to

which

quality.

relative

quality,

instructions

in

the

considerably modified
the

prevents the utilization

or

wear,

of

defined

the

various

boot

(either

etc.,is

uniformity in

the

ready manipulation of

the

of

clickingis acquired by

duce
proto

not

material

systematic training

the

of

want

good quality line) to

in manufacture

very

factory
satis-

most

differ in their

be

to

advocated, owing

cutting. Although

ledge
know-

systematic placing

differ in their

have

of

judgment

of

results

upon

and

skin

in

to the

cannot

cheap cuttingor

despised.

mind

the

keen

skin

branch

requires a

systems of placing
dispositionof the leather in the

best

operated

the

It
the

class of animals

study

patterns, the
to

cut, and

adherence

skin

important

an

impossible to give rigid

practice of

uniformity in

be

LEATHERS.

shoes.

material

parts of

it is

and

parts of

the

on

character

so

is

Rigid

the

the

leathers

to

various

direction.
of the

UPPER

boots

materials

the

disposeof

CUTTING

upper

manufacture

VI.

of

the
the

patterns upon

skin.
The

art

and

much

preparation
the
of

earlier
not

valuable

outside

the

stages of

knowing

what

time

could

board

be

saved

by

practice. Many

clicker's
to do

considerable

career

rather

is
than

careful

failures

through
not

ence,
experi-

the

being

in

want

able

to

do

it.

CUTTING

OR

CLICKING,
The

more

cutter

of his trade

processes

that

assuming

he

LEATHERS.

UPPER

for his

the better

is able

know

to

gets

about

the

after

productions,always

his

adapt

to

205

knowledge

his

to

work.

(the skins of larger animals, such as oxen, horses,

etc.),Skins (from calves, goats, sheep, deer, seal, etc.),and
Hides

Kips (the small

yearling cattle)are

or

of upper

leather.
and

substance,

or

improvement

in

They

the

higher breeds

The

substance

difference

the
of

in

hide

is taken.

hides

that

Skins

from

and

the

the

the

for

the

hides

and

The

during

its removal

skin,

the

tanyard, affects
Some

mode

the

restored

to its green

Anatomical

leaves

the

layers :
the
the

true

the

hair

skin,
has

matter

making

to

is
sort

or

composed
called

of

animal

or

wool

; the

corium
The

; and

hair

from

the

necks

the

the

neck.

grain,
of

sex

or

the

quality of
the

female

than

those

place of slaughterto

the

leather

when

salted,and

are

be

the

it

Skin.

skin

it is

before
has

that

the

to be

the

skin

and

the

is

is converted

tissue."

These

of

the

white

skin

the

of

fatty

leather-

true

into
white

four

adipose

operation of
It

skin

of

outside

of

portions
outside

the

consists

epidermis, or

interlacing bundles

"connective

When

"

mainly

commenced.

corium)
of

and

the

before

removed
can

proper

(cutis,dermis,
This

be

made

commenced,

the

slaughtered.

skins

preventing purification of

from

of

or

which

condition.

Construction
back

The

affects the

that

quality of
be

tanning operationscan

from

finest in the

coloured.

dried, others

are

the

is taken

of

the

become

class afford

lighterin

male.

ness
thick-

the age, kind

by

proportion in

are

when
skin

texture

the

made.

in

animals

better

dye

finer in

the

heavy

of

produced therefrom,

leather

from

and

which

from

being

animals

the younger

take

animal

the

do

is accounted

Large

thick

are

facture
manu-

proportion to

breed, state of health, or the food of the animal

the

the

they are thin and spready.

qualityof the skin from

and

class of animals

same

In

of cattle

less thick ; in the

for

considerablyin

vary

quality.

breed

used

skin

leather.
fibres of
fibres

are

206

THE

dense

MANUFACTURE

OF

and

and
resisting,
closelyinterwoven,

are

become

looser

loose.

during

Some

the

but

these

middle
the

near

more

The

fibres.

is

Here

and
elementary fibrils,

flesh side

are

so

contains

skin

the

ally
they gradu-

it becomes

loose

very

grain

portion of

until

open,

of these

fleshing."

"

compact with
their

and

in

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

fibres

ingly
exceedremoved

are

exceedingly close and

they are separated into
interlaced that they can

scarcelybe recognized.
The

are

of

The

older

tanning

fibres in the

skins

those

of

the

peltinto

and

mineral
the

upon

it into

"

leather

Tanned

be

may

taken

found

functions

from

in the

tanned,

leather.

former

when

of

young
skins

of

is

and

the

acting upon

leather

of

resists water
softness

its

tanned

less than

and

decay, it

under

retains

conditions

its

that

verting
con-

fibre.
It

cannot.

leathers

into

tawed

of

be reduced

Chromed

or

table
vege-

pelt,transforms

leather

tawed.

tanned

qualitiesto

other

may

soaked
produced by a soluble chrome
which
the
is precipitated
on
by reduction
fast gaining popularity.
productions are
many

depends

preservative method

Tawed

leather.

stretch

converting

former

the bark

elements, whereas

leathers

of

ways

The

chroming.

or

Tawing

into

different

are

and

the

generalized as tanning,tawing,

astringentproperty

skin
its

The

Preparation.

products,which,

in

They

process.

ones.

Modes

to

the

flexible than

more

are

proportion of fine
They are very stable,

fibres.

in

changed

small

is required for
great elasticity

where

the animal.

animals

"

elastic

"

little

very

found

are

also

fibres called

yellow
and

skin

true

is

the

skin,

Chrome

superior

leather.

It

strength,pliability,

would

destroy ordinary

leather.
Selection of Skins,
of
The

the

skin

determines

positionor

also influence

length

is

The

"

absence
the

nearly

size,shape,quality,and substance
its value

of

same

profitablein cuttingthan

specificpurpose.

flaws, fleshcuts,and

stretchiness

Square skins, i.e. when

selection.
the

for

as

the

long

width,

narrow

are

skins.

the

usually more
Long

skins

the

shoulder.

veiny necks,
in

shown

skin

is the

and

is

is

butt, and

of the

in

This

latter

skin.

The

generally the

SHOES.

neck

and

skin

that

the

male
than

the

female

diagram

also

shows

in texture

coarser

Fig. 161.

division

usual

the

AND

level
cutting advantages as one
a
diagram of a
Fig. 160 shows

same

has

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

208

portion A (Fig. 161)

stoutest

best

and

part.

It

FIG. 161.
for the

is used
the

strain, such

most

quality the
better
texture

boots

best

that

as

lighter than

demand

and
B

vamps.

portion of

than, the butt.

but

boots

portions of

the

is the

experience

ribs, and

is in

skin, being equal to, if

is the
the

shoes that

shoulder, which

ribs.

It is used

not

is fine in
for

lightbut firm,strong material.

parts of
D is the

OR

CLICKING,

CUTTING

neck

which

is often

skin

(seeFig. 160).

the shoulder.
is

fairlyfirm.

which
much

is
as

and

is the

flabby.
The

usually thin

is less firm than

F is the

rule.

is shown

weak,

flank,which

shank, which

is the

especiallyin
possible,

209

stout, especiallyin the male

backbone
and

LEATHERS.

belly,which

It is stretchyas

soft,loose,and

and

veiny

UPPER

in

should

and

is

Fig. 160
be

light
by A,

avoided

as

calf-skins.

FIG. 162

Systems.
"

In

materials

cuttingup

for

it is

economy,

system of placing the

great advantage to adopt some
depends upon the class
patterns. The best system to use
and
the variety of qualities
of work
to be produced. The
mode

of manufacture

selection
The

cut

of the
and

will determine

will

best

system

height,as
the

also

best

well
method

to
as

have

its influence

use

for

the

shape,of

to

be

certain

in

the

pattern.

the pattern

adopted.

All
P

these

conditions

the

as

In

cutting

fabrics

of

height

into

pattern

of

nature

leather

the

adopting

when

into consideration

taken

the

well

as

lining and

of

width

decide

whether

the

illustrated

in

advantageous
If

the

carries

side

on

then

threads

warp
the

tern
patto

as

so

at

the

the

righthand,

it

should

be

waste

avoided

on

may
some

widths
to

head
the

the

the width

adopted. A
be

rangement
ar-

Fig.

waste

no

to

of

stuff

the

leave

of

the

most

of

direction

is

163

across

arrow

Figs.

or

162

The

system

162

adopt.

FIG. 163.

be

must

system.

linings,the

will

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

210

in

this

illustration

greatest strength

running

the

by resorting
system Fig. 163.

length

shows

of

the

lining.

of

the

material

that
strongest, while those threads
weft or woof, are relativelynot so strong

go

across,

in the

the
The
are

the

ordinary

lining. The quality of both threads should be considered

when
In
making a selection for a particularpurpose.
workshops vamp
linings for shoes are cut so that
many
the toe runs
width-ways, the strongest threads
being
the vamp.
This
across
cutting of the lining is also
resorted
avoid

to

the

in

bal

wrinkly

and

buttoned

work

by

some,

to

lining in the madethe stripe

up goods. It is used for striped liningswhen
the height of the boot.
is required to run
In some
cases
it certainly does
facilitate the clearing of the linings.
This is illustrated
It is also advocated
in Fig. 1 64.
by
the tearing of the
first
to prevent
some
lining when
the toe during the lasting.
pulled over
With

certain

appearance

shaped patterns

of the

and

suitable

leather, it is

advisable

often
of

CUTTING

OR

CLICKING,

proceed

utilizingthe damaged
the

that

of the
After
in

system has
conjunction with
space,

been
its

system

for

smaller

some

would
the

result

system

taken

to

to

present,

from

the

be

may

setting
up-

pattern
the

keep
strictly
to the

so

avoided.

the

occupy

the smaller

systems, the largerthe skin and

the

pattern,

allows

that

most

range,

flaws, etc.,were

no

neighbours
be

of

out

get

selected

should

care

of

uniform

Broad, largeskins lend themselves

system.
of

uniformity

surface

which

to

211

material, to get the

than

portion

waste

greater

the

though

as

LEATHERS.

adhere

upon

Rather

results.

would

cutter

and

adopt

to

placing the patterns

economical

UPPER

least
to the

adoption

the

pattern in

Small

patterns

FIG.161
the
proportion,

large skins

and

the

repay

to

adopt

deemed

would

adopt
of

case

in

that

The

will

the

size

the

of

get the best results

would
were

and

of

consideration.

substance, texture, and

where

as

far

present and
skins

best

For
the

of
in

the

A
as

be advisable

not

substance

remaining

determination

under

advantageously

most

system of placing the patterns.

large quantities of work,

level

system.

circumstances

levelness

in the

the

is concerned, which

if other

influence

use

that

important.
the

and

of

be used

cutting area

to

the conditions

are

adoption

system may
the

easier

the

skins

were

the

the

skin,

parcel,

method

to

production
are

fairly

stretchiness,a system that

THE

212

MANUFACTURE

skins

that

match

up,

be

the

to

all for

work

produces

are

BOOTS

side could

one

irregularand

very

system

OF

that

be

that

produces the

SHOES.

used, whereas
are

with

difficult to

very

work

the

in

greater advantage

AND

to match

long

would
that

so

run,

for

quantitiesof work, irregularskins, grained leathers,

and
sorts of coloured
goods, a system of placing the
many
is
patterns that lends easilyto the matching as the work
be
recommended.
But
for large
proceeded with would
skins
of fairly
quantities of a particularpattern with
small

characteristics,the

uniform
space
for

be

may

side

one

suitable

The

in

the

first

quality,etc.,to
of

utilization
latter

calls for the

least

adopted,even

portionsof

Some

that

system

are

though the work

produced
skin
skin, demanding another

be cut

men's

with

up

patterns

are

the

is
of

pattern reversed.

better

adapted

systems than the patterns of

larger in proportion to the

to

women's
skin

the

work.

than

the

be resorted
systematicplacing cannot
to,
then the edges of patterns having similar curves
should
be
sponding
arranged to meet, and the straight-edges
placed to correin the next pattern. The
ones
shape of the same
design of pattern, the height,
the
heel
and
instep measure,
former.

When

will make

considerable

in the amount
used.

This

of material
be understood

may

by testinga couple of
patterns upon

marking
patterns

the

Fig.
pattern

cut

heel-measure

for

person

(referto

p.

with

42).

The

and

of

different

afterwards

167
of

systems

They

leg

fully
care-

comparing

occupied. Figs. 165,

area

166, and
165

number

employing

measuring
the

men's

sheet of paper,

same

systems, and

ence
differ-

are

illustrate

placing

taken

flat foot

leg is

from
and

also

three

pattern.
standard

low-angled
low in height.

OR

CLICKING,
In

the toe
at the

in

is made
time

same

also

straight line.

one

needing

way,

throat

the

to touch

keeping

This, of

second

of the

the

produces
to

first row,

of the

backs

course,

213

pattern is made to fall

reversing the pattern,
curve

the

skin

second

the

without

straightline,AB, and,

upon

of

back

system Fig. 165, the

LEATHERS.

UPPER

CUTTING

all

work

of similar

selected

be

row

166.
.

quality,and

this method

of

The

way

other
is

Work

cut

faces

plan

without
into

kind
and

is

work

of

the

produced

the

same

pattern placed
the

touches

toe

all

one

way

by

placing.
trated
illus-

Fig.

167.

upon

this

matches

or

having
second

pattern upon

same

corner

The

AB.

straightline

reversed

the

top front

the

that

the

shows

Fig. 166

system.
so

with

cut

to cut

By

skin.

carefully calculating
the

pattern, it
which

seen

of the marked-

number
out

of

surface-area

will

cut

into the least material

If
of

pattern of

top, as

self-same

well

as

Fl 0.167.

be

can

(seealso

p.

241).

greater heel-angleand

being higher

systems, it will be

in the

different

leg,be

demonstrated

used

without

style

for the
doubt

THE

that

the

the

selection

shape, size,and
of

number

the

of

in

parts

height

of

that

system

of

minimum

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

214

pattern will influence

will produce a given
Fig. 168

area.

shows

./68.

the

system

same

line

skin.

The

centre

of the

as

AB

skin.

illustrated
is

supposed

It will

be

Fig. 165, adapted

in

to

seen,

be

the

without

to

backbone

a
or

measurement,

.169.
to cut

The

165.
cut

into

on

the

more

work

than

material

produced

right-hand

on

side

the

this
of

the

pattern

plan matches
line

AB.

used
the
The

for

Fig.

quarters
pattern

216

MANUFACTURE

THE

generallyadapted
that

vamps

in

cut

are

BOOTS

OF

may

of material

be made
in

given

also be

worked

side

pattern, and

area.

to

get the

front

and

backs

may

mode

of

least

be

capped

of the

Fig.

elastic-

placing
possible
and

be removed

cutting

plan

system, and

the

underneath

smallest

the

on

p. 145.

on

the

If the

variation

large

seam-fronted

into

necessary

cut

material

'

to

illustrates

to

in"

fronts

172

them

Fig. 122

short

they
presents itself,

to "run

Elastic-side

'

For

long-winged,low vamps.
without
spring,and where
surface

SHOES.

AND

the

from,
there-

system will be
173

is

system

of

Fig.

area.

Fig.]72.
the

system

running

the

for

backs

straight-cappedfront.
is exhibited

in

Fig. 174.

The

CLICKING,

Systems
and

176.

CUTTING

OR

for

Shoe

LEATHERS.

UPPER

placing shoe quarters

given

are

and

linings,top-bands,inside

counters, tongues, and

sectional

other

many

217

in

Figs.175

outside straps,

patterns

may

175.
Fig.
also

be

arranged

illustrations

be

cut

given

will

to

here

system,

upon

the

make

but

the

principlequite

plain.
should

Clicking Principles. Skins

"

quality,and

substance.

The

largestand

be

sorted

stoutest

are

to

size,

usually

Fig.i74.
reserved

for

largest skins
greater

economy,

the

largestsizes.

should
on

be
the

cut

lines

Some

into
that

the
the

advocate
smallest

largerthe

that

the

sizes

for

area

to

218

MANUFACTURE

THE

be cut

in

the

proportion to

effected.

the

But

BOOTS

OF

pattern the greater

of the

substance

prevent the adoption of such

cases

SHOES.

AND

If the

plan.

that

should
the

for
skin

and

flaws

pierced through
do.

This

cutter

will

free

from

or

utilize

be

inferior

some

portion

the

if the

size of

started

either

backbone.

The

the

as

former

flaw
the

at

the face

by

strain

under
a

be

the

button

should

be

side

resorted

the

enable

in

part

some

and

that

is

button-piece
boot;

compatible.

left-hand

be

not

sometimes

workmen

much

quarter of

outside

be

should

inclusion

for

subjected to

observation, such

on

should

piercing,will

of

instead

the

be

not

fly,in

underlay
may

marking,

to

that

as

They

instrument.

amined
ex-

flesh cuts

back

the

well

grain noticed.

indicated
blunt

The

cutting,and

the broken

used

the face and

flesh before

with

be

be

on

marking

well-

purpose.

should

The

skin

and

is wide

grown

many

pattern

large, then

be

on

in

would

skin
a

the economy

or

or

The
from

to, when

the
skin
the
the

176.
Fig.

qualityand
permit

of

substance
work

of the

being

cut

skin

at the

without

butt

and

deviating

backbone
from

the

CLICKING,

system
the
to

proposed

The

work

the

it is advisable

should

closer may

all clear

at

not

be faced
them

seam

completed

viz. the

demand

that

that

tightestportions run

the

that

seams

marked

go

with

and
be

be

Fine

grain.

the

markings

should

with

in

texture,

preventing

way,

boot.

Leathers

that

The

or

ings
fine mark-

however, may

vamps,

grain,while

calf,
box-

or

with

be matched

are

markings

the

regards

as

coarse.

bold

in

Strasburg moroccos

as

up

with

similar

lasted

matched

coarse

matched

in

to be

them

quarters matching

in

grain,such

should

material

awry

intended

the

that

quality. Very light leathers

should
be carefullywatched, so

substance, tightness,and
the

the backbone.

generalrule,so

the cutter

as

upper,

as

at

work

for the

from

start

219

be weak

skin

suitable

or

to

up

LEATHERS.

If the

worked.

be

to

backbone, and
be cut, then

UPPER

CUTTING

OR

the

quarters may

be

The
portionsthat
grained material.
should
be
are
subjected to strain during the manufacture
cut firm to preserve the marking or impressions. Coloured
leathers
should
be
carefully matched, and usually it is
mated

with

advisable
several

After

be

the

in

placed
and

without

doubt

such

kip

the
and

patterns should
in

view

the

procedure

be

The

skins

should

desired,and
sold.

The

the

"

three

and

the
qualities,

skins

the whole

to

suited
for

use

obtain

the

fit

work

to

the

or

parts

cut

up

for.

into
It is

heavy leathers,
results,the

best

closely,keeping

exhaustive," and

mode

This

cut.

is often

the

of
one

work.
be

may

be
that

subsequentlyinto
be

selected

is termed

selective,"and

skins

To

of
adaptability

for women's

used

"

split.

of

one

upon

it is most

method

best

skin, as the

same

shades.

with

boards, and

of work

kind

the

varying

substances

the

upon

of

proceeded

be

may

sorting into

purpose

as

parcelare

cutting

lines.
may

complete pairs from

to cut

skins

The

finer

when
cut

as

cut

upon

the

this

mode

is determined

far

as

plan

selective

goods of
method

inferior

as

upon,
the

possible into

portion not suitable, left

other

known

to be

to

the

quality

disposed of

quality,or

is resorted

the

it may

for the

very

best
fine
as

SHOES.

of

selected

are

very

quality

that demand

production of goods

the

quality,for

AND

the skins

where

bespoke work,

or

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

220

first consideration.

The
the

third

skins

then

for

the

cut, and

work.

the

of

bulk

prevent undue

to

immediately adaptable

the

goods

are

not

portions

patterns for

other

into

quality

the

These

waste

cut

are

possibleof

as

near

as

others,

of the

of combination

sort

selected

being

desired

is

way

stock.
Stretchiness

line

direction

or

class

or

in the

which
the

as

if tanned

in which

the skin

is not

lines

of

much

of

amount

relative stretch and

properties will
leathers

that

portions

of

strict
when

are

very

tanning

notice

that

in the

on

the

produced goods.

of

the

pair,in
The
of

similar

stretch

tightness
skin.

portionsare
be

taken

or

way
"

or

tightness,"and

in

It does

be

with

But

lines
a

they

the

arrange

so

obtained

are

principleinto

is to

stretch

on

any
effect.

mate

pair or

up

stretch

tightness and

the

to

stretchy

reached, if a fairly
to

this

maintained

necessarilymean

not

cheap work,

regard

that

material, so
a

of

such

that

necessary

to carry

in

work, paying due

of the
far these

how

material, that the best results

great point,even

the

determine

taken

skin, and

so

the

on

must

great sacrifice of economy

the

not

lines

care

of

out

will

be

must

the

tightness."

When
cutting
cutting up.
firm, or when
cutting the primest

the inferior

good skin, great

tions
direc-

the

placingthe patterns

leathers,or when

same

animals, but the

of

the

to

general lay

mode

skin, it is

the

in the

lines of

"

various

tightnessin

influence

adherence

patterns

in the

skins

substance, quality, and

largelythe

the

termed

of

the

property

pulled or strained,

when

yieldsleast

variation

tightness in

This

also

is

most

differently. The

dressed

or

pulled,the

stretches

or

skins, and

of

are
tightest,
relatively

There

gives

line of stretch."

"

kinds

several

of skin

are

The

it

is

skin

"

in

known
technically
varies

Tightness, When

and

of

opposite sides

direction.
of stretch

diagram

form

"

pull across
Fig. 177

the

will

"

lines

give

this

the

relation,* where

the

tightness,"and

LEATHERS.

UPPER

CUTTING

OR

CLICKING,

lines

indicate

lines

cutting

arrow

circular

221

the
them

"lines

of

"lines

the

of stretch."
A

of

speculation is prevalentas to the cause

being relativelytighter in a given direction,

deal

good

the

skin

some

affirming that

even

by
as

of

though

the

the

direction

the
or

lines

lay

"

of

tightness
direction

definite

termined
de-

are

it

But

hair.

of the

relative

for the

cause

"

seems

of the

177.
Fig.

tightnessof
of the
of the
the

"

This

lines," and

same

Experts

is

to the

do not

to indicate

their

angle

shank
to

agree

making

an

given only

for the

cause

some
tightness,"

those

diagram
not

is the

line at about

backbone

skin

hair.

lines of

flanks, while

"

the

start
indicate

absolute

of

from
the

direction.

lay

to the

as

them

or

tion
direc-

direction

radiate

from

degrees to the
the same
position

60

differences

between

the

THE

222

MANUFACTURE

diagramized in Fig. 177,

as

the

direction

by using

in which
From
the

the

the skin

brief

skin, and

with

the

is

remarks

others

mode

SHOES.

Fig. 178.

to

be the better

to the

reference
will

understood

be

fibres,and

view

the

Fig. 179

an

ox

is

of

of the

shoes

should

mode

of

few

lasted

bespoke
upon

edge
is the

houses
method

"

the

the

of

which

with

the direction

place

in

boots

so

(a)
of

line

sidered.
con-

shoe

pers
up-

that

the

heel

to

the

edge.

The

former

of the

and

is resorted

"

The

greatest

material

much

or

seams,

direction

stretchy

toe,

toe, (b)

to

mostly adopted.

demands

the
and

be

and

counter

one

"

greatest tightness

from

to vamp

tight seam,"
and

removed.

to

be cut

i.e. from

disposingof

tightnessis termed

be

of

view

next

Boot

direction

moved,
re-

greatest tightness,

tight

may

animal

Disposing.

way

material

tightness
suggested.

determined

best

these

been

the skin

Methods

in

the

give a

we

with

Having

portion
pro-

of the

cause

In

may

the

has

stretch

and

the

of

skin

the

after

ment
move-

by examining

muscular

second

The

positionof

and

"tight to toe,"and

elastic

and

determine

will

is termed

which

gives the

locomotion

animal

vamp

of

structure

stretching property.

or

i78.
Fig.

tion
direc-

chapter dealing

of fibre

kind

from

The

determined.

the

given concerning

bottoming leathers,it

(c) tightacross

indicate

prefer to

similar

tightwill

fullyby

more

while

AND

tightnessbeing ascertained,the

of the relative

cause

BOOTS

OF

to

in

when
"

horsing

the

adjoins
called
of

boot

or

devolves,

least

portionsof

the

portion

is

the

best

appearance

may

be

placed under

blemishes

very

the

under

immediately
should

leather

inferior

toe-caps

is desired.

Flaws

the

this

kind

Boots.

Button

flexible,but

reasons,

inside

quarter for the

quarter

Seam-to-toe.
cut
If

of boot

be

it to the

the

best

as

be

thin, pliant,

buttoning

be

tight in width.
better fitting
of

the

should

portion,

and

the
the

be

To

nomical
eco-

upper,
smaller
for

the

used.
obtain
from

across,

adopted, the
stiffener.

buttoning.
un-

For

used,
quarters
outside, enabling parts too small

quarter, cutting away

fasten

for

and

of

permit

to

flies should

to be
"

tight
this

piece should

button

outside

and

inside

The

"

tough,
The

fly; but

or

the

as

be

overlays,etc.,

piece

adjoiningof the vamp.

Facings should be cut from the firmest and
utilizingthe lighterportionfor the topbands.
far

stiffen ers.*
when

under

in

the

excusable

only

button

extend

not

of

immediately

the

money

the

of

portion

over

or

disposed

which

quarter

article for the

inferior

judiciouslyworked

that

risky business, and

This

be

may

be

covers

the

tops of the legs,and

times
cheap work may some-

the

in very

f.180.

The
in

The

173, 174, 175.

over

or

portion of Figs.167,

darkened

in

bal

is intended

idea

same

wear

material.

best

the

needs

quarter which

and

lace vamp

strain

parts where
qualities.

shows

Fig. 180

in

shading

The

or

parts

portions

the

quality,and
place,the lower

strain takes

the

the

that

So

greatestwear

best

the

demand

the

where

shoe

or

SHOES.

AND

stiffener, are

roughest usage.

to bear

upon

the

above

and

vamp,

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

224

the

the

best

wear,

seam

to

front

clicker

should

stretch

the

fronts

feather, and
as

much

superfluous material, relying

as
on

should
when

possible the
the

paste

to

OR

CLICKING,

joined under
to

UPPER

LEATHERS.

the

fronts

should

towards

the

Vamps

be

may

the stretch

to

the front.

during blocking across

or
tight-to-toe
tight-across,
of lasting,
and kind
trade, method

cut

the class of

according to

"

"

top of the leg. This will allow

be removed

225

tight-to-toe
gusset the back should be
back-seam
going awry in lasting. Blocked
be tight-to-toe,
the
inferior portion
with

prevent the

Shoe

CUTTING

of material.

Cutting. For

Bespoke

best

"

obtained, and

quality is

therefore
cutting would
and
suitabilityfor

be

bespoke, high prices are

Economic
great consideration.
ness
a
secondary consideration,fit-

the

be attained.

primary objectto

intended

purpose
The

partswould

be matched

from

oppositeplaces,either side of the backbone.

bespoke is produced in a factory,or where
economy
consideration,order

specialrun
Calf

or

Calf

Wax

being

curried

skins

excel

their
blackened

Skins

the

calf

darker

than

and

marks
be
and

short
firm.

skin

between
and

not

flesh cuts

the

and

level

backbone

should

feel
and

exude
that

in

well

rounded

be

freedom

are

French-

should
firm

and

There

oftentimes

the

be

the butt

are

and
from

be

should

hidden

as

on

offal

plump

free from

straightas

suddenly.
when

flabbynor
be

in

should

feel

fall away

be

are
"

growth

neck

skin

mellow, and
not

the

short,and

should

not

skins

kippy

"

The

veins.

substance, and

fingershould

grease.

The

English

hand, and

free from

edge of

The

skin.

The

shanks, etc.,should

The

thumb

in

wards
bark, after-

standing
notwithflexibility,
They are curried and

the

skins.

should

There

with

best, being mellow, more

last easier,and
is of a better

the

English

the shoulders

ragged ends.
possible. The
The

cut, and

the

grain,harsher
They should be

out.

got

of

side

the

on

appearance.
well

be

is

oleaginoussubstances.

thinness.

is considered
to

with

strength and

flesh

durable, conforming
appearance

stuffed

or

in

first tanned

are

comparative

on

dressed

would

When

in.

or

These

work

stock

the

being

folded
"

tinny,"

freedom

the black

face.
Q

from

226

MANUFACTURE

THE

The
the

material

Several

superiorwork,
bone

and

bone
back-

purposes.

make

serviceable

of

qualitiesmay

grades

is needed

good judgment

SHOES.

for inferior

reversed, and

blackened.

when

produced, and

and

cutting,the hip

In

oftentimes

are

AND

best for

usually avoided, except

be

necks

BOOTS

considered

are

being finer.

should

be

skins

female

texture

The

OF

in

the

cutting

costing.
calf is dressed

Memel

the

on

grain,and

is not

much

used.

calf is

Russet

not

calf at

American

The

the

first

appearance.

finer,but it is

sight appears

article,either for appearance

calf,under various trade names,
and

into

general use,
looking article.

calf -skins

In brown
and
that

opening

and

Calf
selected

haired

be

be mated

is tawed

calf-skins
are

and

scudded

the so-called
taken

and

good

spicuous,
growth marks are conin placingthe patterns

and

accomplished

in

drums, with

The

hair
with

after

damping,

with

blunt

are

soften

and

sometimes,

and

egg-yolk. They

to

The

are

are

them,

are

are

dyed black, and

are

is

salt.
of

drained, and
posts, working

wetted

dressed

un-

Germany

In

over

again

and
mixture

them.
skins

are

tawing

of alum
and

staked, i.e. drawn

They

The

mixture

ing
clean-

Next, they

drench.

bran

combined.

knife.

salted

or

They

dung.

drying,the skins are moistened

into
oil,flour, and egg-yolks worked
operationsare

grain.

dried

is loose.

After

these

the

on

in water, after which

pured

cleansed
in

finished
tanned.

not

until the

and
fleshed,

and

and

softened

are

limed

matched.

or

calf is boarded

Kid

they

is largelycoming

be

may

should

Willow

wear.

the least strain is

arranged where
experienced,owing to the tendency of their
crackingwhen subjectedto strain. The shades

be

of colour

or

usuallya good wearing

should

care

they

likelyto

is

currying

finest sort.

reliable

Chrome

so

lining and

its smooth

calf is buffed, hence

Satin

for

calf is considered

Bordeaux

purposes.

both

imported

and
with

after

shaved,
oil,flour,

grounding

CLICKING,
rubbed

are

OR

the

on

finallyironed
The

CUTTING

grain with
them

give

to

cutting of
cut

skin.

Firm, large kids

the

for the
The

number

of

well

The

with

English

the

on

They
the

not

white

and

The

"

beaded

not

make

English.
is

suitable

very

kinds

three

It does

grain.

good dressing. The

closer than

the

the

fibres

German.

French, especiallynear
the knife

make

The

The

when

for such

small
fibres

when

ideal leather

an

varieties

kind, and

have

both

for

or

up,
for
the

"

and

compact.
in

turning

softness

or

therefore

are

dense

are

suitable

suppleness

for

necessary

appearance

German.

the

on

therefore

soft, and

selection

appearance

poor

of

and

of the

are

work, where

handling

The

edge readilyfrom

grain readily breaks

The

leather

and

of

importance

this

fine

and

beading."

"

or

kids

the

"

do

the

backs.

French

leather

The

the

"

blue

finer than

take

tightermaterial.

purposes.

supple as

or

in the

when

carefullywatched

relative

make

up,

short

appear

and

in

turning

be

to

the

pipe,if

or

up

grain. They
"

have

is firm

soft

so

being skived,
for

kinds

English,French,

kid

flesh side
are

than

work

adaptable for systematic cutting,

are

paired

are

readilybreak

not

substance

for commercial

one
fluctuating

usually met

surface.

producible,and
qualities

them

keeping

fatty composition,being

in

dispositionof

correct

227

requiresgood judgment, the

feelingdifferent

softer
lighter,

LEATHERS.

fine,smooth

calf kid

when

but

UPPER

pipes,and

is

does

hence

completed. They

not

to the

consequent

not

are

of German

those

as

purposes

the

and

or

required.

factory produce,owing
processes,

"

so
or

nice

in

English

makes.

German

The

that

appearance
of the

Some

sized skins
The
to

German
the

they
the

on

makes
in

some

skins

introduction

back.

They

as

sequence
con-

are

chrome

English.

similar

considered
of

usually white-backed.

are

the

equal to

makes
are

and

grain. The fibres are of such a

easily,having a flannellyor loose

skive

are

larger skins,

are

in

coarser

are

nature

kids

to the

The

French

smaller

skins.

cheap cutting,but owing

calf

they

are

not

being

228

MANUFACTURE

THE

dressed

sufficient

in

BOOTS

OF

quantities to

AND

SHOES.

the

supply adequately

demand.
Calf

and

japanning,

is done

japanning
of

paint

is

before

stretched

well

is

Patent

on

the

the

stretched

japanned
by coating

are

applied,and

skins

are

dried

in

finallythey
stove

at

flesh

side.

Several

varnished.

The

from

temperature

with

blue.

are

or

The

skins

Prussian

linseed, lampblack, and

coats

enamelling

160"

to

170" F.
Patent

should

It should

be firm

also

It should

coming
Vamps

be

may

folded

patent

should

worked

be

may

utilized.

The

of

system,

the

that

Straight

Patent

the

caps

be

point

couple

of

Caps

are

cut

to

in

advantage

considerably

in

rows

class of

to

row

on

regulate
row

be

may
when

the

the

grain

It is made

quality.

if

cut

second

also

be

may

best

the

placed.
systematically
tipping is japanned or enamelled

varies

be cut

to the

first

from

may

drawn

peaked,

left

than

cut

Vamps

straightline being
cap

Amazeen,

on

when

butt, according
a

edges.

appearance

vamp

backbone.

If the

butt.
cut

so

better

brittle.

not

the

clean-cut

ensure

of the

toe

the

japan

to brittleness.

folded,if skived

or

kin, having

across

side

patterns are
side, and

in

solid,but
or

will

This
"

the

grain side,the japan

or

qualityof patent, when

to
at

same

be

neck,

each

taken

Luf

edge.

and

work

the

brown

the

board.

turned

"

on

raw

to the

from

cut

to the

next

if left

up

be

little offal.

flabby,and

tendency

any

have

flaws, and

in texture, not

be elastic without

should

and

free from

be

from

splithides.
Horse

Hides

dressed

are

as

cordovan,

leather

durable, fine in texture, and

polish.

It

should

butts,cordovan
horse
and
the
and

hides.
easy

to

marketed

be

is

high

Crup

from
etc.,are made
-cross-pieces,
portions of
Crup, when
properly tanned, is waterproof,
; but

wear

feet of the

not

susceptibleof taking
lasted so tightlyas calf.

that

wearer.
as

if

badly tanned,

Horse

enamelled

hides

horse.

are

The

burns

and

blisters

and enamelled,
split,
bellies

are

stuffed

OR

CLICKING,
and

sold

"flat calf "and

Skins

They

shumac

kid.

vary

considerably in

memel

goat, levant

leather

made

selected

goat, and

from

are

the

chroming by
The

acid

is added
chromic

the

manner

reduced

in the
water

is

if

and

outline

An

follows

as

carefully
of

the

"

to

in

the

acid

acid.

chromic

this

In

fibre is

and

in

bichromate

the

fibres

fixes itself

salt,which

chromium

green

in boiling
quite insoluble, even
of
fact, converting it into a perfect kind

fibres,rendering
"

the

thoroughly struck
then drained, or pressed,and passed
consistingof thio-sulphateof soda, to
In this
to liberate
sulphurous acid.
until

bath

second

of

part

they remain
through. They are

are

leather.

process

solution

which

of

dition
having been brought into a suitable confirst treated
in a solution
of
tanning, are
added
has been
sufficient
of potash, to which

liberate

to

goats,

skins

bichromate

into

and

varieties

Strasbourg,are

durable

two-bath

for

acid

oily

"

Persian

goats.

glace chromes,

as

very

Moroccos

sheep

skin.

goat

chromed

are

from

made

are

"

for

used

is also

tougher than

dressed.

variously

are

229

size, thickness, and

finer in texture, and

are

tanned

They

hide

Horse

horse

quality. They
skins.

LEATHERS.

UPPER

smooth.

grain or

as

Goat

CUTTING

it

leather.

"

bazils."

side

wool.

When

Persian
have
the

not
covers

Glove

tanned

much
or

sumach,
skins.

value

tawed, and

and

stuffed,they

are

outsides

considered

"

For
The

of boots

glove
best

are

or

kids
of

of

known

the

as

called

are

best.
are

as

grain,

"skivers."

moroccos

proportion to

are

or

upper,

Imitation
The

sumach.

known

are

called

and

wearing capacity,and

Kid.

chiefly used.

skins

bark

split,the

is in inverse

skins

sheep

with

are

sheep

with

purposes

Sheep

kids.

with

from

by tanning

for leather

they

tanned

made

are

made

tanned

Sometimes

being

Koans

when

Skins

Sheep

not

are

sheep skin

its value
alum

for

mock

mock

kids.

Sheep

skins

favoured

for

shoes.
the

French

skin

of

the

lamb

is

production. They

THE

230

MANUFACTURE

tawed, which

are

After

fleshingthey are

time.

The

skins

with

drenched

mixture

tawed

drench.

alum, salt,flour, and

of

and

exposed

to

of

smallness

skins

in

relation

subjected
when

is

soft,

very

liable

for work

to the

cutting,owing

The

climate.

wet

kid

suitable

not

and

cleansed

yolk,and

egg

Glove

dyed.

second

now

are

beam.

the

fleshed

then

They

soaked,

are

on

thoroughly

then

pliable,stretchyleather, and
to be

knife

blunt

skins

The

bated," and

"

bran

dried

are

by

are

follows

as

unhaired

limed, and

then

to

is done

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

the

pattern, and

the

to

necessityof cuttingall one way of the stretch, and matching

of competent
the work
produced, is only entrusted to men
judgment.
Russia.

Real

"

durable, and
tanned

with

is

from

with

given
produced,some

not

should

makes

heavy

used

grease

hot-footed

to match

They

sold

memel

as

Satin

tanned

with

smooth

appearance

of the

is to

be

are

memeled

the

grain,

grain split of
The

an

easy

can

leather

to cut

for vamps,

and

be

out

Hide, etc., are

for

the

satin,but

the

to

carried

the
in

grain

is

givesthat
largeness
up.

The

systematic
this

grain splitsof
the

and

large hide,

Owing

face,to its fullest extent.

used

on

grain is buffed, and

noticeable.

avoided

the

those

for

used

times
often-

if clean

to

cutting.

are

pattern

hides

great care

curried, and

the

Grain, Glove

evenness

slitters,"
are

placing of
on

is

and

Some

side,it is considered

backbone

the

"

in the

butts.

hemlock.
so

of

want

difficult to cut, and

tanned

is the

Hide

The

during

for

manufacture, and

its

termed

are

shoe

in

are

odour

usually fine

is

wearer.

up

heavilyweighted.
and

imitations

Many

leather,and

Butts, sometimes

work.

oil.

only having the scented

this expensive leather.

it somewhat

be taken

Shoe

its

birch-bark

of

no

adapted for

in colour

It is
peculiarodour.
willow, poplar,or larch,and the

the

is tanned

Hide

It has

grain.

and
strong, pliant,

is very

of them

the characteristics
Eussia

leather

distinguishedby

bark

is

scent

Russia

has

leather,
similar

not

been

232

THE

and

flanks

MANUFACTURE

only

suitable

are

The

Sorting Qualities.

"

for
being responsible

one

it is often

open

the

to

sorter

in

For

"

patterns,many

to

serve

for several

by

handled

would

have

not

in

Fig.

of

each

and

stopping

second

step

for
used

also

usually

found

former

to

be

the

the

be

thus
in

Offal

cut

ing
designbe made

parts may

be

may

factories

cut

that

press.

Revolution

type is illustrated

head, rises

or

or

the

the

at

completion
his

operator presses

and

dies

out, returning

highest point, until

released

by

treadle.

measuring
with

in

use,

machine

collectingthe
skin

of

for

dies

work,

in smaller

even

work

beam,

the

on

Machines

The

mallet

suitable

at

qualities.

Topbands, facings,

patterns.

treadle, it descends

the

on

the

pattern,

sometimes

also

several

named

revolution, and, when

foot

are

and

The

181.

of

sets

clicking press

for the

of the

of different

one

little consideration

of these

greatest

the

straps, tongues, etc., may

the

dies

for

is

advantage.

to

the

portions

or

one,

portionsof

By giving a

press.

the

stuff

cut

decision

used

be

the

placing

variously shaped

large enough

certain

outside

and

under

of

in

obtain

or

smaller- sized

making

may

inside

To

that

so

relyingupon

cutter

judgment

positions.

weight

Machinery.
knives

to the

of

provided,

for

but

responsiblefor qualities
;

errors

cutting,not

The

considered

large establishments,
uniformity of quality is

in very

right

be

utilized

shape.

cutter

cutting,several-sized

material, when
be

of the

abuse, owing

to

patterns should

may

instead
qualities,

be

to

so

or

make

in

wards,
after-

to

patterns in awkward

economy

sorted

may

the selection.

adherence

strict

essential,for

the

makes

it

purpose,

be

advisable

It is sometimes
a

this

work

cut

into

by separate men,

where

for

SHOES.

AND

cutting leather.

dear

very

BOOTS

OF

surface-area

advantage.
the
has

various

measured

the

"

There

Sawyer,"

mechanical

measurements

is

placed between

of the

skins

two

kinds

are

and
means

the

"

Justice."

provided

observed, when
the

roller

or

for
the

feed

the

and
a

roller

front

wheel.

upper
or

feeds

above

slight distance
inches

each

from

The

"

other,

allows
to the

the

roller

wheel

of the wheels
a

and

to

so

an

material

the

anything

is

on

placed

757.

upper

involuted

finger,preventing

registering.

that when

rise,and

of the

substance

of

two

some

mounted

of wheels

number

FIG.
the

consists

machine

shaft, is arranged,

this

levers,pivotedat the back,

between

"

Justice

233

arranged that the leather put on the

its highest point. Separated by a
on

shaft,so

board

LEATHERS.

UPPER

CUTTING

OR

CLICKING,

wheel, this

lever

pivoted

automatically adjust
used.

On

the

itself

face of each

slot is

made, into which

wheel

from

works

slipping without

THE

234

MANUFACTURE

Attached
is coiled
the

over

back
to

of

the

drum

Before

using,the

with
of

in

the

tube

proportion lowering
The

lowered,

to

mark

(cut

the

to

the

in

of

number

end
Each

with

main

float carries
feet.

represent square

its tributaries

is coiled

the

are

the

round

spindle
in

rises,and

the

tube, and, according

main

the

filled

attached

water

to

scale is effected.

the

machine

proved by using pieces

is

foot, half

square

feet

other

tube.

The

float.

passes

pulleyat

portioned

off.

foot, etc.),

square

the sections,and
skin, totalling

up

so

of the

accuracy

of cardboard

on

wheel

bottom

to

and

cord

the

wheel, the

the amount

units

tube

main

at

cord, which

works

placed

equal

When

water.

is

over

the

at

is

of the

is fastened

connected

tube, in which

wheel

passes

SHOES.

AND

rim

cylinder,which

is

lath, marked

each

cord
and

BOOTS

the

as

The

metal

tubes

vertical
a

the

machine,

hollow

the

spindleof

material.

of

the

to

round

OF

This

thus
skin

ing
obtain-

placed

through the machine, and the area indicated,coincides with

that obtained
when
using the cardboard
patterns.
The
skiving,scarfing,or bevellingof the various parts
by machine, is often done in this department,so that any
damage may be easilyreplaced,etc. The Douglas skiver
(a fixed knife machine) is used for the heavy leathers,and
the Amazeen
(a revolving knife
see
Fig. 187, and p. 247)
for the lighter
leathers.
Machines
for scollopingthe edges of vamps,
caps, toplinings,etc.,are also used, and an illustration of Squire's
machine
is given in Fig. 182, which
of the best for
is one
this purpose.
also used
are
Toe-cap perforatingmachines
"

in this

department.

Costing. Calculatingthe
and

qualitiesof
and

up
not

to

number
from

judgment.

selected

skin

The

into

requiresa

mode

the

be recommended.
of

the cut work

of the

cost

"

often

kind

The

considerable

adopted

as

to be

the

of

sections

ence
experi-

marking

pattern to be costed
cutting up of the skin, or
of

them, is very little better,when

parcel,so

various

most

suitable

they are
to

is
a

selected

produce

the

CLICKING,
work

under

be cut

from

consideration,and
skins

not

that

the

the cost, as
ascertaining
work

235

the work
It is

is to

impor-

182.

conditions

same

afterwards

favourably selected.

so

FIG.

tant

LEATHERS.

UPPER

CUTTING

OR

should

those

under

be

observed, when

which

the bulk

of the

is to be cut.

For
of the

various

qualitiesa

produce. Further,
out

to

the

for."
and

The
the

product
are

not

it is desired

instance, suppose

cutter

suppose

to cut

relative

cost

pricesdetermined
of the bulk
cut

upon

brand

dozen

obtain

the

cost

of calf

kid

will

of them

into

to

be

given

what

right up
they are fit
is then apportioned to the results,
used as a basis for testingthe

of the

the

certain

to

same

trade.

"

If the

plan,viz.

the

bulk

of the

kids

Exhaustive,but

have

that

into orders

cut

are

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

236

been

not

SHOES.

AND

selected

to

properly

etc., they will proqualities,

duce,
that
then, the conditions
being different from
ruling when
estimating the sample parcel, the cost will
This
is the more
be uniformly realized.
not
apparent
the

exhaust

the

when
the

test

has

cutter

in the

If lots of leather

samples
taken
of

to be

are

submitted
for

cuttingup
The

the

way

bulk

skin

is

patterns

costingpurposes,
be taken

has

plan.
as

be

should

record

careful

been

merchant

care

in

prevent inaccuracies

to

lots.

leather

costing.Leather

leather

the

by

selections,and

size,weight, etc.,should

when

"

in

run

cutting,but
following the same

lot from

for enhanced

allow

to

"

or

economical

bulk

used

"

worked

"

to obtain

case

restricted

the

into

skins

is

purchased by

be considered

should

bought

hand

per dozen

much

so

"

in

much
so
by weight ; or by surface
per square
foot. When
in which
the
manner
purchased by weight,
the weight is produced should
Leather
be noted.
heavily
weighted with fattysubstances
or
glucose is unprofitable,
or

and

"

tricky

of the bulk
When

stuff.

cut

be

taken

well

of the
the

as

of each

bulk,

look

to

measuring

or

the

and

included

in the

usage

and
has

that

mentioned
material

that
and

total,and

labour
certain
with

labour

are

should

skin

be verified
costed

is

skins

some

then

the

is measured

accordingly.
together,a

which

advantages,among
imperfect

by

of skin, should

the

sometimes

no

be

may

skin, and

measure

Every portion of

be

may

tried

the

of

skin, as

tested,when

be

method

breadth

get the square

to

be relied upon.

should
the

should

each

which

brand

Skins
and

of

there

that

other

any

length and

not

weight

of the

cost

records

careful

parcel,so

cheaper.

multiplyingthem

Material

and

surface-area

the

to the

is sufficient to add

purchased by measurement,
of

mind

buying by hand,

average

disputewith
supposed

in

borne

cheaper the cutting,and

the

substance

be

purchased by
that the lighterthe
a
slightincrease in

cutting leather

When

cost.

should

weight, it
material

to

cost

properly estimated,

and

may
of

be

cutting

any

extra

CUTTING

OR

CLICKING,

the

attention

given by

readily to

his account.

of

limited

Fabrics, whether
cost

cut

in

the

number

of

will

give the

"

of the
a

given

fabric is

easily.

(either as
and

"

the

that

those

produce

pairs that may be

by dividing the priceby
obtained

which

The

piece,and

same

quality
it is

the

by

for

used
the

"

fittings

"

"

or

stuff into

thirds,"

or

the

only
way

the cost.

costed

are

questionappears-

seconds,"

cut

be

pattern,and
regards shape,that affects

as

"

may

the

over

only when

inferior)the

of

particular part.

taken

area

best,"

"

number

of that

equal all

It is

is credited

qualities,the

amount

an

of the leathers

Many
as

pairs

is distributed

area

237

material

are

being known,

area,

cost

question of

the

the

yard, and

per

cost

of

number

his

to

to

LEATHERS.

of
difficulty
pricesto the several qualitiesbeing many.
for outsides or linings,
be easilycosted.
can

allottingrelative
The

cutter

simplest materials

The
work

UPPER

of

just

selecting

into

prime

that difficulty
is
qualities,

experienced.
instance, supposing

For

dividing
the

cut

as

cost

price

of the

in

they are not, in this

though no difference

case

of

Persians

facings.

The

material, and

cut

the

number

socks, by
of

socks

be, strictly
ing,
speak-

may

between

into

some

of the

socks,

sorted,so

they are priced

Compare this with a
topbands or toplinings,and

case,

existed.

into

facings,by
the

by

There

quality

cut

roan

skin

is determined.

difference

but

the

their

introduction

office,demand

the better

of this selection alters

the

as
costing. The topbands are not so valuable
the facings,and if topbands only were
required,leather
inferior in quality and cheaper in price could he used, so
that in pricing the cost of facings and topbands, the topwould
be priced on
such a basis that they could
bands
the facings. Area
he produced in quantity without
only
the facings are
determines
the cost
is not
what
here

mode

of

"

enhanced

in

value

the

over

area

cost, for

selection

or

quality purposes.
The

cost

be determined

of the

various

qualitiesof

by cutting up

the skins

given design may

considered

suitable

238

THE

into

that

MANUFACTURE

OF

design,only

absolutely
necessary
the work
various

This

be

often

cut in

is done

to

then

other

into

be costed

SHOES.

designs where

that

other

at such

price that

without

the several

skins, which

After

qualities. The

quantity,if demanded,

produced
without
producinglargelines

are

"

AND

palpable waste.

save

by assuming

from

in

sorted
carefully

qualitiesshould

they could

working

"

in order

is cut, it is

BOOTS

loss.

qualities

yield that

quality

of stock.

cut up yielded five

Suppose a skin cost 12s.,and when
ladies'
lace boots, and one
Sorted
pair of shoes.
pairs of
there
in qualities,
pair best, two pairs
were,
say, one
shoes were
The
seconds.
seconds, and two pairs thirds.
To
price,start at the lowest quality of the easiest and
cheapest produced in quantity. The shoes, cut out of
other skins,or roundings, could
be produced for, say, Is.
be
total of this would
per pair. The
"

This, taken
divided

to be

shoes

pair of
from
pro

at

...

the

rata

original cost, would

the five pairs.
among

pairs of thirds is ascertained

being produced in quantity without
This would
sources.
probably be Is.
The
cost of five pairs is
average
the

Is. Qd.

Is.

two

used

to

price the

seconds.

The

pair shoes at Is.

pairs 3rd lace at Is.
pairs 2nd lace at 2s.
pair 1st lace at 3s.

then

of

basis

of

its

from

other

Total, 3s.

Qd.

9d.
2s.
so

The

3d.,and

far

11s.

cost

loss

...

...

cost

on

leave

be

may

being, say
".

d.

"

...

9d.
...

...

3d

30
...

...

12

to illustrate is,that all

principlethis is intended
parts or portionsare priced on such a basis that, if called
in a given quantity, it may
be
to produce them
upon
done without
less
loss,or producing other parts that are use-

The

for

utilitypurposes.

Estimating the
commended,

cost

viz. that

is often

of first

done

on

obtainingthe

plan not
average

to

cost

be
per

THE

240

MANUFACTURE

the

Taking

OF

BOOTS

per

Ib.

price given

to obtain

the

best

add

50

seconds
"

AND

per

add

thirds

25
"

fourths
"

"

fifths

of

test

cutting,often

proportionof
would

rate

be

waste

from

vary

is considered

should

the

fair

when

to, is

to determine

the

the

whole, and

this

cuttings to

or

the

pricing

If it be considered

such

About

the

purposes,

20 per

be noted

It should

from

"

"

as

resorted

cutting.

sellingstuff,etc.
for

same

1 in 5 to 1 in 8.

deducted

abatement

12J
original.

"

being priced

cent.

per

"

the

"

cent.

33^

"

basis, then

as

SHOES.

that

allow

to

nothing

for

slow-

to make

necessary
time

proper

cent,

an

do

to

is

so

profitper centage is added.

Where
facilities are
provided for measuring leather,or
where
skins
the costing
are
purchased by measurement,
the

verifyingof

and

Some

basis.

of the

area

certain
than

have

absolute

useful

for

area

in contrast

The

the

be

The

Fig. 167, per pair

goloshed leg shaped as

as

of 107
area

obtain

To
a

sq.

in.,and

would

the

number

be

of

easily
the

goloshed leg

and

any

triangleis
recognized

best

rules.

gives the
triangles

area

which

of

area

would

be

Fig.

92

sq.

is

shows

pair of

such

in.

such

system

Again,

the

gives an area
pair
per
the
system as Fig. 168,
cutting-

168

sq. in.

of

calculated
to

pattern,first divide it into

plane figures. Usually

adopt.

woman's
now

the

more

cutting basis.

cutting-area,
by

on

surface-area

trianglesare
each

128

cut

on

minimum

the

Fig. 165,

to

surface-

surface-area

to compare

this,refer

sq. in.

90

of the

pattern, giving
the

obtained

area

measurement

cutting surface

that

straight-topgoloshed leg,and
would

the

of

amount

cuttingpurposes,
with

of

itself,so

area

on

measuring

shape

the

illustrate

To

done

the

advocated

influences

only

be

may

pattern.

area,

the

same

shoe

so

treated.

calculated,which
The

total

of the

shows

Fig. 183

of the

pattern.

may
areas

The
be

man's
area

done
of

all

of

by
the

CUTTING

OR

CLICKING,

"

in

Measure

183.

In this

the

c, d.

In

inches

it is 7*1 in.

case

take

calculate

To

Example.

LEATHERS.

UPPER

241

trianglea, b, c, Fig.
length of the base, a, 6.
of

area

the

Then

perpendicularheight,
this

it is 2*8 in.

case

multiply the
base by half the perpendicular
height,and the product gives
The

the

area.

pattern for
pattern

certain

measuring the
between

system may

of

number

out

the
*

times, and

will

following example

of

Surface-area

Cutting

pattern
,,

"

"

"

"

of

to

cut

system,

of

Cutting
(a) cut

90

167

92

168

sq. in.
"

"

"

"

107

pattern

169

115

170

128

5)

J5

J J

))

"

,,

"

"

"

"

"

as

71

175=
,,

"

"

to

system,

176

,,

"

81

84

"

175

(")

"

"

"

"

Surface-area

165

patterns:

"

"

(a)
(6)

Fig.

"

Surface

Cutting

as

difference

the

illustrate

and the cutting

-area,
surface-surest,

the

enclosed.

{ thus

area

given

by marking

obtained

The

is to

cutting-area of

The

be

rule

,i

cuttingresults of a
-area.
shaped pattern,an estimate of the cutting
particular
this used to give the comparative
be obtained, and
may
By keeping

careful

records

for convenience

It is recommended

of the

and

accuracy

that

decimal

scale

be used.

t Or

half the

J To

get the

useful

base
area

multipliedby the perpendicular height may be used.

of the shapes thus enclosed,the followingrules will be

"

The

rectangle,square, rhombus, or rhomboid, is found by

product of the length by the perpendicular height. The
circle equals half the product of the circumference
by the
of the radius multipliedby 3'14159.
the square

area

of

obtaining the
area

of

radius, or

MANUFACTURE

THE

242

basis

similar
The

plan
of

cost

that

to

SHOES.

being

arranged

described.
in

range

standard

the

providing

ascertained,

sizes

AND

qualities

previously

various

the

BOOTS

for

value

the

costing,

for

on

OF

may

be

size

sample

or

easily
be

known.
A

It

is

to

acquainted
7

over

of

number
useful

to

parts

with

the

4's

women's.

the

and

parts

have

be

may

weighed,

and

texture

equal

of

number

cut

table
extra

in

cut
results

card

from

prepared
cost

entailed

cardboard

of

compared

with

in

the

sample

such

on

in

cutting,

even

an

pattern.
plan
say,

be

to

to

CHAPTER

FITTING

UPP"R

VII.

AND

MACHINING

CLOSING.

OR

THE
is

putting together of the various parts while stitching

fitted
termed
fitting."These parts are, where possible,

as

"

intended
The

is

an

shoes.

needle

and

adhesive.

the

performed

thread,

or

by fittingtogether by

portions
the

the

actual

be,

effect

pieces that

of

one

patterns

when
and
of

the

cutting to
the

displacement
view

has

in

been

be

any

made

to

of

upon

aimed

suitable

fit,part

of
to

the
that

size

plane

at

seams

To

this

have

the

in

part

made
and

The

of the

modus
will

on

the

by

the

shape

occupied when

particularcase

adopted

to

been

in

to substance.

due

be

maintained.

have

alteration

pattern

be

to

allowances

the

fittingadopted

which

either

alteration

either

should
rigidityof the seam
non-yieldingadherents.

stiff and

the

together

preparatory

to

such

should

The

cut

are

cutting-board, or
pattern-maker for
upon

leather

overlap

with

with

parts

an

large degree

object

of

fittingdepends

the

The

the

substance.

be increased
The

the

unite

to

of
flexibility

the

end, the

not

of

and

with

of

use

certain

are

fittingproper,

otherwise

the

boots

means

put

are

without

There

to.

by tacking

work

the

machine,

initiatoryprocesses.

should
that

of

of

manufacture

either

of the

parts

be

excellency or

these

various

It may

just alluded
to

the

of the

branch

important

directly under

processes

pattern-cutter.

together of
fitting

Some

methods

the

designed by

correct

upper
and

and

sequent
con-

material

fitting,
operandi

depend, then,
preparing the pattern.

THE

244

To

AND

the

this difference

clearlyunderstand

Take

Experiment.
"

this

cut

to

calf-kid,roan, kip, calf,etc.

should
the

he

laid

short

two

exactly

over

seamed

sides

"

1" in. by 6 in.,and

linen

and

the

the

other

substances

that

seen

piece, it

to

the

get

would

and

be

lining

fit the

to

make

to

necessary

Fig.
illustrated

been

beyond H,

lining

the

make

will

experiment
the

The

will
of

in

first process

cut.

If

have

lay

to

be
used.

and

"

the

how

the

materials

out

where

work,
and

the

allowed

When

two

for

in

this

the

to

stouter

piece.

The

amount

varies

with

used.

after

ascertain

If, however,

part, P,

to be removed

has

the

counting
the

method,
flat-paper-pattern
made
during fittingfor the

fittingis simplifiedand
Skiving.

show

actual

them

This

necessary

closely to
two

be

outside

stouter

the

on

to

material

estimated

of the

substance

parts,etc.,is
are

also

will

184.

amount

fit

It

with

it smaller.

by Fig. 184, EH,

the

shows

CD,

as

Eepeat

results.

compare

HP

has

round

seaming they should he hent

displacement of the lining noted.

After

184.

mended
recom-

lining,glace Persian,
linen
A piece of the cut-out
a
piece cut from calf, and
together,as abt a'b',in Fig.

piecesof

some

is

about

pattern

SHOES.

student

try the following experiment

to

use

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

way

allowances
substance

correctly

been

pattern, the

they

process

of

cheapened.
pieces

of

leather

have

to

be

UPPER

AND

FITTING

overlapped they
idea

is that

the

be

must

bevel varies

scarf^or

MACHINING

skived.

suitably

with

reduction

substance, the
both.

If

When

reduction

that

taken

underneath
"

The

matched
be

to

as

than

clumsy,

for

The

For

"

The

kind

and

If

incorrect

turnino--in

p.

for

work

its

of the

term

leaded

of

be

as

different

overlapping,

figure.

same

sort

of

skive

or

""

from

shive, a slice.

timber-joint.

is often
upper-leathersplittingmachine
portionsof the upper of uniform
substance, but the
the edges.
localities

will

leaving a
supporting properties.

purpose

in the

by CD

not

may

is removed

to

the

reduce

materially

that

used

AB

detriment

"

to

substance

be

must

mined
deter-

be

only required
the

where

skive

will

made

of skive

J An

" Some

the

Where

seam.

overlapping portion

bevel

to be derived
from

seam.

to

weaken

by Fig. 185,

Supposed

f Derived

solid

nicely adjusted,so

be

of the

it be

the

not

yet

of the

inside

make

to

por-

others

etc.,is illustrated

seams,

be

not

the

bevel, without

proper

should

bring the portion

to

should

the

that

so

strength,then

illustrated

stouter.

"

weakening

its purpose.

substance

on

stouter,

the

the

on

done

referringto a lap-joint to a
edge of the overlapping portion

seams

reduce

edge.J

by
be

for

from

in

substance, it will

to

thicker

uniform

the

apparent

quarters, etc.,are

necessary

tions

the

undue

any

or

vamps

of skive

width
to avoid

as

here

to

goloshes,care

as

sufficient substance

be

it necessary

are

edge, while

retain

must

is

make

we

"

"

feather

will

rally,
Gene-

equal

are

affixed

be

mostly

portions

lumpiness

no

This

upper.

would

such

skiving

united

modified

by bevellingshouldj be
is to

The

joined,shall present

be

to

lighter material

the

then

substances

two

skive*

case.

In practicethis would
be
the'appearanceof one.
accordingto the strength of the materials skived.
if the

245

The

of each

the conditions

substances, when

two

CLOSING.

OR

confuse

is reserved

this

term

with

for the inserted

used

beaded."

"

"

to make

reduction

bead."

The

the
here

various
refers

correct

to

usage

MANUFACTURE

THE

246

of

turned-in

the

that

substance

in two

of

ways.

feather

"

to

be

part should

original substance
edge

"

SHOES.

AND

material.

This

The

skive

be

in such

main

portion

together equal

the

may

the

to

be

may

plished
accom-

gradually brought

that

manner

be

in should

portionthat is turned
when
in positionthe

The

scarf is desirable.
of such

BOOTS

OF

turned

when

in

together with the leather of the body, be of the

of the original. This kind of
substance
turning-in skive
of
in Fig. 186.
It is the form
is illustrated by A and
a
it may,

"

"

skive
of

skiving

It is the
"

"

reduced

to

curl when

by

of

the

Fig. 186.

edge

cause

of the

to the gauge

way

turning-in

"

would

other

b in

and

to

substance

edge,which

being put

adaptable

The

feathered

shown

most

machines.

The

turning-in.

turning-in is
of skive

sort

folding

to

for

hand

for

adapted

most

"

or

is not

tendency

foldingmachine.

Fig. 186.
The

be performed,
skiving by the hand-process may
from
the body of the
by pushing the knife away
the
or
by drawing the knife during usage towards

either
user,

who

person
while

the

latter

of calf

nature

long,clean
bites.
the

skives.

be

should

of

work

taken.

uniform

folded-in

taken.

the

followed,
be

work

The

kip.

or

with

is used

former

skiving

the

of the
material

At

any

throughout
should

be twice

as

skive

must

length.
wide

as

sweep

as

The
the

the

or

and

knife

which

determine

its entire

strokes

of the

cutting edge

rate, the

of

by taking

short

by

as
long
G-enerally,

turning-in,

be done

may

knife, or
will

for

materials

adaptable for

more

condition

texture

is to

is

sweeps

The

The

practice
possible
leave
skive

fold

to

the
for
be

248

THE

OF

MANUFACTURE

The

impracticable.

of

easy

"

to

Amazeen
transmitter.

1400

revolutions

that

the

the left

on

disc
motion

to

revolves
bevel

bevel

central

screw,

shaft

works

of skive

roll.

The

to be

bevel
before

adjusting screw.
the

scarf.
with

This

the

on

is well

shaft

is made

to

also

to

the

will

the

any

raise

and
will
feed-

should

with

the

the

be

knife-

knife

the

the

thumb-screw

before

knife-screw

prevent
feed-roll,should

the

by

on

gear

adjustable

main

adjustment
It

is driven

by
screw
knife-bracket-adjusting
the
desired
given
angle to the

gear

any

gives
extremity

gear

bevel

loosening the

the

and

knife

is

knife-bracket

1200

seen

its lower

raw-hide

driven

from

and

The

E.

is

gear, to the feed-

worm

at

speed
high-

new

by Fig.
imparts motion,

and

another

roll-feed

the knife

machine

makes

machine

worm

shaft,that

enable

of

of

means

The

desired

The

It will be

vertical

knife-shaft.

means

of the

right

that

gear

loosened

shaft

knife-

the

"

balance-wheel
minute.

the

the

Machine.

per

hand, by
a

added

leather-skivingmachine
The

main

To

D.

"

Amazeen

"

"

187

splendidly protected,

the

to

Descriptionof
from

SHOES.

operator. The
other improvements make
manipulation and adjustment.

minimizing accident
and
adjustingscrew
more

also

are

cogs

AND

BOOTS

by

bevel

of
altering
knife
coming in contact
knife
be adjusted for a

flatter skive.

place the guide

To
be

be turned

should

to

roll, so
the

edge

edge

without

uniform

for

of the

back

"

of

edge
top

material

or

may

The

knife.

of the

edge

The

the

that

bring

to

the

over

in front

as

back

come

the
position,

screw

so

The

operator.

The

the

released,and

in

guide

is

the

feed-roll

shaft

towards

the

shaft

justed
guide should be adhighest part of the feedbe

close

presented directly to
is returned
as

that the

so

possibleto

the

knife

contact.

knife

must

be

kept keenly sharp

to

produce

skiving.

Amazeen

"

will

produce excellent

if carefullystudied
turning-in,
Machines

of the

the

shaft

as

S should

set-screw

are

also used

for

by

the

reducing

work, especially
operator.

or

skiving the

toe

portionof
the

with

the

allow

visible
Ink.

of the

edge

The

"

leather.

of vamps,

be

coloured

it

composition that
coloured goods,the
ink

smeared

over

and

toe-cap

it will be necessary
is to

This

curves.

flat to the leather, and

serrations

or

care

reach

do not

to

goloshes,quarters,etc.,if not
the

same

of

face

the

as

If for

to the leather.

be

of the

the

of such

and

black,*
~b"jet

f should

stain

or

confined

be

tint

same

hair, will be useful

The

of the

toe-caps or

by

vamps

marker, compass,

prior to

parts would

executed

The

good

work

of

means

black

ink

may

of

perforating
perforatingpliersor
the

of
facingsby means
non-cuttingawl, demand

either

by

hand

be turned

should
The

the

bo

in

sulphate of iron and

spreading.
dyes are useful for this

of

bichromate

is added

When
knife

is

out
evenly throughbe

of

decoction

careful

quarters,or
short

from

facing-

machine.

or

turning-inmay

made

parts.

regular amount
portions of topbands

by taking

turned-in

edge

the

to

as

fittingtogether of

course.

line,or

inch

an

hand-processa dull,blunt,

The

its entire

edge.

the

be done

the

by

used.

marked

of

side, which

either

Turning-in of the edges of the vamps,

The

often

blunt

or

be

not

for this purpose.

machine, marking imitation

other

plate

Preparatory Processes, such

Other

attention

metal

one-sixteenth

to within

reaches

edges, and

the

to

leather.^ A fine,short-haired

the face of the

tooth-brush, protectedby

which

the

positionof

readily adheres

ink

should

The

added

vamp-toe,

material.

the

the

should

ink

If black, the

the

skives

fold.

edges

in, should

turned

largelyused

size.

that the nicks

be taken

should

for.

is

the

portion to lay

folded

249

machine

skiving,if for turned-in work,

nick the edges of the inside
or

the

CLOSING.

OR

machine

Another

operation marks
figuredenoting the

to notch

as

"

Gott

"

same

After

the

The

vamps.

this purpose.
at

MACHINING

AND

FITTING

UPPER

to

from
and

the

dullcut

facings

logwood chips,to
A

potash.

little gum

will prevent

t Aniline

J To

remove

ink

parts of tartar with

stains from
one

purpose.

fabric

oxalic

part of powdered

alum

acid
is

should
more

not

be used.

suitable.

Two

MANUFACTURE

THE

250

should

show

Machines

This

machine

over,

and

so
an

for

The
cuts

and

shape,flat
should

the

nicks

or

or

them.

The

Work

when

turning-in,which is best done

made, and not by allowing on
which

amount

Uniform
should

varies

skiving

is also

that

be twice

the

at

of the

Fig.
The

"

or

in

is

by

may

this

amount

the

patterns

of

the

the

cutter.

of skive

width

portion.

188.

machine, is illustrated
folder,or turning-in

followingwill give the principalparts :

The

by Fig.188.

By

"

Lufkin

edges

-edge pattern

raw

discretion

folded-in

them

"

"

essential,and

ing
vary-

folder.

turns

even

by having
a

"

folded

to be

cutting an
to

requiring

Lufkin

"

edges,folds

curved.
on

them

width.

adaptablefor

is the

flattens

left

have

uniform

of

are

of its kind

or

of

leather

others

SHOES.

AND

turning-in,some

best

compresses

be to any
machine

of

bead

given shape, while

shapes.

for

used

are

of

work

level

BOOTS

OF

the

"

that

be operated by the thumb.

may
to give the cuts
lowering it, the knife may be made
nicks closer together or finer.
This will be necessary
in

turning

the

feed,

The

feed

cuts

to the

or

If the

curves.

general work

on

the

is set

to

nut

is moved

serration

is

give

about

lower

the

up,

greater.
10

to 14

inch.

be

is the

smaller

distance, between

is the

It should

nut

lifter used
raised

to

when

feed-bar

raise and

placing the work

presser-spring. The

feed-bars.

to be

folded.

pressure

on

UPPER

FITTING

the

AND

feed

feed

should

the

be

CLOSING.

251

light as possible,just sufficient

as

to

leather.

The
the

OR

MACHINING

screw

former

will

increase

when

desirable

the

pressure,

feed

slips.
E is the ball-screw
thumb-piece used to regulate the
stroke
of the folding-lever. It should
be so
adjusted
that when
the folding-lever,
the folded material
is under
and
the link on
the driving-wheel is at its highest,the
the
If it does not move,
spring should slightly move.
should

nut

only being

the

decrease

or

little.

the

screw

be

the

loosened, and

If

the

folding-leverhas

is turned

of

out

the

G- is adjustable,and
gauge
width
of the turned
folded
or

the

leather
when

gauge

curve

of

work

be

first to prevent

removes

lever,K,

the

The
and

the

work

machine

is
or

certain

raised

the

gauge

at

towards

up

the

folding-

the

the

nicking

400

revolutions

driving-wheelhas

three

respectively.

The

per

minute,

grooved wheels,
transmitter

adjusted

coated

cement
"

and

The

allowed

skived
to

when

It is used

knife.

speed

will.

The

mutilation.

correspondinggrooved wheels, enabling the

at

the

knife.

about

run

work,

the

on

pressure
without

pass

under

the

3 in. diameter

pressed harder

pressed down, prevents

passing

is under

balance

to

when

seam

5, 4, and

when

of the

seam

the

as

fold.

some

be

such

little from

away

wide

too

lever,enabling
of the

kept

towards

starting

right-hand lever,H,

operator,
other

When

regulate
edge of
the guide-

The

edge.

should

necting-link.
con-

to

reached,

are

material

gauge.

should

The

curves

the

vamp,

the

against

inside

is used

is directed

folded

be

pressure,

balance-wheel

the

in

turned

much

too

The

to

screw

edges

dry, being

in

are

has
to

condition

be

with
when

tacky."
The

knife

requires

careful

attention.

It

should

be

sharpened on its bevel edge only, and the cutting edge

kept perfectlysquare with the sides. It is adjustable,so
*

Made

of carbon.

from

virgin

It should

rubber

be fine,and

dissolved
not

too

in

naphtha, benzine, or bisulphide

stringy.

THE

252

as

of

to
an

go

MANUFACTURE

below

inch, and

the
set

OF

under-knife
so

that

the

BOOTS

cutter-block

or

cuts

are

edge as possiblewithout
being visible
when
inside curves.
so
on
especially

Fig.
The
on

under-knife

its front

face where

or

SHOES.

AND

the

on

folded

the

near

as

sixteenth

face.

This

189.

cutter-block
the knife

should

passes.

be

It must

sharpened
be

kept

UPPER

straightso

that

close to the

knife

is illustrated

also

are

of

the

The

of

success

substances

depends

contact

with

surfaces

to this

are

affixes

and

scollop,and

is

Machines

and

fancy-stitching
indicating the design of

stitchingbe

if ornamental
flowering,
"

shape

markers, for

flower

Adhesives.

It moulds

back-strap beading,

for

perforators or

189.

expedite button-work.

to

adjusted

Urquhart button-scollop

The

"

the

to

machine

used

etc.

be

must

253

clean.

cut

by Fig.

beading

useful

very

it may

Beaders,

insertion

the

that

so

CLOSING.

OR

knife, and

fit the

it may

Button-Piece

beader

MACHINING

AND

FITTING

needed.
adhesive

an

upon

the

to be

united.

used

unite

to

of

using quite
dries
much
the pasty substance
itself. Paste
as
as
by
be
little as possibleshould
as
evaporation,and therefore
used. The tenacityof an adhesive
depends upon its intimate

two

the

dirt and

time

is the

Paste
made
of

used

term

by mixing

tenacious, brown
is

Starchy

mass,

starchy pastes it
adhesiveness

with

boilingwater

and

is

cheap.

smooth,
when

green,

and

be mixed
and

the

lumpy.
to

the

starch-

is

sticky,

speedy decomposition.
to

mass

to

add

smooth

in

It should
in

is added

prevent mould,

some

add

To
the

added

to be

are

flottr is rich

good paste.
Alum

ing
paste, boil-

quickly stirred.
glue,to increase

Preservatives

stiffness.

making, and,

in cold

starch, although less durable.

It makes
not

Gluten

mass.

prevent decomposition.* Rye

to

is insoluble

Starch

two

than

is advisable

and

of

consist

liable to

being added,

water

used

Most

water.

very

should

materials

with

cereals

glutinous

adhesive

more

of

gluten.

covered

when

but

swell, forming

cells

It

and

by rubbing

and

ingredientsthus

substances, starch
water,

removed

obstacles

hammering. Sufficient
drying before stitching.
to signifythe homogeneous
mass

flour

the

farinaceous

the

for

be allowed

must

chief

The

be

may

surface

into the

paste well

the

Air

air.

manner

gluten,
be

quite
cases

many

acid.
salicylic

acid, oil of winterCarbolic, sulphate of quinine, oil of cloves, salicylic

and

boric

acid,

are

used

to

prevent

fermentation

and

as

an

secticide.
in-

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

254

Dextrine, starch

broken

blunted

and

glycerine is

added.

sometimes

for leather
When

water.

allowed

its

is

dry
of

cause

brittleness,
adhesive

more

vermin.
It is very

somewhat

adhesive, but
leather

the

on

the other

with

into contact

being put

by

rubber.

dry

to

lessen

Dextrine

is disliked
from

is made

Cement
be

hot

To

needles.

pastes,and

flour

must

is used

gum

or

SHOES.

AND

brittle,and, if excessivelyused, is the

it is very

than

in cold

It is soluble

purposes.

British

or

gum,

BOOTS

before
It dries

substance.

proof against insect life.

Cold-iuater Glue is made
by mixing (a) and (b),putting
in a steam
bath
the mixture
until
corporated
thoroughly in-

flexible,and

is

"

(a)

quart water,

1 Ib. fish

The

glue

(6)

Dissolve

to soak

,,

in

Shoemakers
with

water,

warm

added

Paste

glue.
2"

oz.

2^

oz.

in water

calcium,

"

is made

of water.

by taking barley-meal and,

into

mixing

night.
magnesia,

chloride

quart

one

all

thick

paste. Hot

is

water

bring it to the required consistency. It should

then
be placed in a warm
place to ferment, which
may
be ascertained
smell.
This
is a tenacious,
by the sour
to

smooth

paste, free from

paste

may

be

lumps,

and

is

splendidadherent.
dragon or gum
gum

from

made

tragacanth.
There
such

as

several

are

the

"

proprietary pastes
Shoe

Sphinx

Paste

"

and

"

For

affixing patent beading, an

gelatinein acetic acid may
dissolving
Modes

differ in

may
of

of

certain

two

by

the

headings, flat and

Flat
fittingis the
"

"

round
term

"

made

by

be used.
of processes

adoption or

machines, the principlesmay

"

market,

Gum."

adherent

"

caused
fitting,

the

Hedoral

Fitting. Although the sequence

"

"

on

rejection

be classified under

fitting.

used

to

describe

processes

256

THE

MANUFACTURE

of iron

16

to

end

one

rotated.
which

in.

this

"

also

of

allows

it to

revolve.

also

the

"

cuts

out

an

to

collar,

of the

arm

be

can

is fastened

collar
to

it

to

shape

down.
for
are

this

purpose,

and

either

good

makes.

The

latter

if

welt

Fig. 190

seam.

The

"

Union

is fastened

this bar

used

also

are
"

Attached

handle, by which

gives origin

part required to rub

SHOES.

AND

in. in diameter.

1"
a

end

or
Rapid
ploughs or

down

is

other

Machines
the

bar

The

which
pedestal,
of the

about

long,and

of

BOOTS

OF

shows

welted,

as

well

as

rubs

seam-rubber.

Fig. 190.
Treatment

of the

upper

(a) By
so

that

of

may

"

be treated

leaving

they

are

the

either

the
the

insertinga

the

various

outside

raw-edge, i.e.

stitched.

liningto

show

outside, and
bead

between

level bead.

trimming
the

in both

outside

and

off

outside

lining.
(e) By turning

sections

"

lining and

flush when

(b) By turning in
(c) By turning in
lining.
(d) By

edges of

The

Edges.

lining.

the

and

UPPER

FITTING

If

the

AND

edges

MACHINING

be

to

are

OR

bound, they

CLOSING.

257

done

either

are

by(1) The

arranged equally
accommodated

(2) The
being first

stitched

outside

similar

the

laid over,

"

out

edge"

work

There

are

outside

to

press

stitched

and

ing,
stitch-

are

lining are

very

brought

edge as possible.
again, giving a very

former

the seam,
for

bagging
general use,
as

in

of

consists
and

on

or

same

the

obviate

used

for

of

use

rubbing

and

the

turned-over

beading

the

Watson

machines.
and

the

couple of fingersmade

line with

hammering

to

stitched-on

"

or

this

flat. The

folding-outlevers arranged
hammer, enabling smaller curves

in
to

latter machine

front
be

arrangement
of the

anvil

operated upon

greaterfreedom.

with

Laced

Women's
"

fitting

Boots.

woman's

suit the class of work

used.
be

"

known

types

machines

The

the

and

"

"

bagged

"

are

is the hammer
has

and, after

(e). This
produced by method
the edges is largely adopted to

with

Machines.

The
out

binding being
the lining
over,

the

to

near

as

and

of

two

Columbia.

pulled

to that

dealing

for

seams

binding

well

methods

"bagged"

or

out

cost

Bagging

the
laid

turning in, and

paste during fitting.

reduce

the

then

"

well

amount

seamed

turned

of

style

"

then

of the

appearance

method

"

method

and

the

face

together and
It is then

lining,that is,

off.

The

similar.

is

binding

seamed.

run-and-turn

"

and

outside, and

the

"French-bound"

trimmed

the

U-fold.

the

to

being placed above

The

outside

the

bound-and-held-over

"

the

to

where

method,

cover

between

(3) The
closed

to

liningand

the

over

"

flat-bound

"

so

When

stage. The
fitted work

that

boot

and

the

and
stitching

are

greatlysubdivided,

there

is

followingorder
as

an

of processes
sequence
the flat is modified
on

lace

the processes

arranged

The

"

example

no

of
:

loss of time

other

to

machines
it should

between

procedureis given

of

for

"

each

paste-

StitchingProcess.

FittingProcess.

Seam

(2)

inked,

and

(1) Work skived

facings marked.

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

258

webbed,

closed

of

linings,

strapped, or
as
required.

stitched

open-

(3) Quarters closed, openings

stitched
(ifrequired),and facstitched.

(5) Topbands, etc., stitched

(4) Topbands, facings,and

side-liningspasted on.
rubbed

(6) Seams

fitted to

quarters

(7) Quarters

and

down

and

linings.

lining

round

stitched

seamed

at toe.

flat slab allowance

(Ifon
must

on.

at heel

be made

stiffeningsubstance

and

outside,

of

stretchiness

for

etc.)
in.
turned
Edges of fittings
(8)Stayed,and vamp fitted.

stitched

(9) Vamp

included

tongue

and

on

treated

or

separately.

prefer to punch the upper

plan to be recommended.

Some
a

Buttoned.

Women's

piece
to

the

former

The

before

quarter before
method

for flat

When
For

the

may

be

is

completing
generally liked

the

owing

If the

The

button-piece.
to

the

patterns

are

worked

the

former

is

are

trouble

correct,

usually preferred.

will
paste fittingthe following description

serve

as

an

"

Process.
Stitching

FittingProcess.

(1)Skiving,inking,buttonholes,* etc.,

on

holes,the latter is the cheaper method, however.

holes

illustration

fitted

by practicallycompleting the buttonattaching to the quarter, or by attaching it

the lining.
experiencedin fitting
and

boot

button

ing,
vamp-

either

plans,

two

"

eyelets before

for

marked.

Button-

(2) Lining closed,webbedstrapped,or open-stitched,

piece beaded.
*

Sometimes

this is done

in the

cutting-room.

MACHINING

AND

FITTING

UPPER

259

and

closed

(3a) Quarters

fitted, side-

(3) Topbands
linings.

CLOSING.

OR

stitched.

Button-piece
and
stitched round
worked
(if
required),button-piecestitched

open

to

quarter.

(4) Topbands, etc.,stitched.

seamed
buttonto
Lining
lining.
(5)Lining fitted to quarter.
in.
Topband turned
(7) Yamp fitted.

(6)
of

round, and

toe

lining seamed.
(8) Vamp stitched.
METHOD.

ALTERNATIVE

FittingProcess.

(1) Skive, ink,

Stitched

StitchingProcess.

mark

(2)

holes,

Close

linings, web,

strap, etc., close

etc.

to

quarter

and

button-piece

close

quarters.

if

(3)

Fit

linings.
(5) Fit

topbands
lining

to

in

topbands,
button-piece.

turn

(7)

Bar

Men's

and
Laced

flat, of which

the

side-

Open seam
required.
(4) Stitch lining to buttonpiece lining.

outside,

and

bead

(6) Stitch round,

(8)

there

"

are

stitch

button-piece. Seam
lining.

vamp.
Boots.

and

to

Men's

work

two

modes

Stitch

is fitted
of

of

toe

vamps.

either

procedure

of the flat and

block
by a combination
following descriptionof the operation will
fittingon the block :

block,
The

and

or

"

on

the

on

the

methods.
illustrate

"

After

the

work

is

skived, inked, etc.,the

liningsare
seamed, and, if required,webbed, backstrapped, or openThe
stitched.
pasted and
topbands and facings are
The
stitched
fitted to the
block.
on.
lining is now
backs
The
or
down,
stitched,
legs are closed, rubbed
Outside
outside
stitched
or
or
facings are
strapped.
stitched.
The
lining is lightly pasted or quarter-leg
pasted. The
quarter-legor back is fitted to the lining,
the turning in done.
and
After
hammered,
drying it
the last and
is removed
from
After
round.
run
again

260

MANUFACTURE

THE

putting

block, the vamp

the

on

The

stitched.
before

the

variation

work,

when

of which

is

parts

closed

at the

wards
after-

and

is

pasted
punched

often

adopted

for

machine,

flat-bed

on

on

and

eyeleted

goloshed
brief

scription
de-

given.

fitted

topbands
be

not
must
lining,which
quarter or leg is fitted,and

the

to

The

back.

The

usual.

skived, etc.,as

are

facings are

and

SHOES.

is

upper

fittingis

stitched

AND

pasted on.

are

vamps

of flat

The

BOOTS

OF

topbands, etc., turned in, and

The
toe of lining is seamed,

the

quarter stitched

the

round.

the

golosh fitted on, and

of the heel.
inch
The
closed
to within
an
lining and
and loop fastened,
leg is closed, and outside, inside-strap,
and the golosh stitchingcompleted.
Men's

Buttoned,

fitted in several

Like

"

other

and

designs,this

boot

be

may

ways.

skiving,inking, etc., the linings may be closed,

backstrapped, topbands and button-lining stitched on,
and stays for buttons
The
pasted on.
quarters are now
the button-piece attached, and, if
to be closed, etc., and
then
be placed to
It should
beaded, the bead affixed.
the
Careful
round.
lining and seamed
turning and
rubbing out should be the next operation. The buttons
should
the
be
and
front
sewn
on
whipped up, and
goloshed by one of the usual methods.
After

Fitting without
be obtained

when

the

usually adopted.

and
be

dotted

patterns

the

best

results

be

made

those

over

portions in Fig. 191, A, show

lines indicate
the topband
intended

are

to

do

duty

heel

when
it is pasted to
lasting,
stiffener,
obviatingany pleats,which would

the

left loose

seen

of material, the

substances

liningis

this method

closed

strap held

lining at

until

when

on

as

and

far

as

is
the

stitched

to

certain
stitching,

while

the

several
be

enable

work

shaded

The

If the

facings.

To

pattern should

The

is removed.

what
and

"

holding the

in

modifications

Pasting.

in

for

must

strap

otherwise

its

entirety. The
golosh height,and the inside

adopted
to

similar

position.

The

UPPER

FITTING

AND

MACHINING

Fig.

191.

OR

CLOSING.

261

262

MANUFACTURE

THE

quarters B, Fig. 191,

the

facing

stitched
turned
side

marked.

to

the

and

run

turned

are

back

The

of

topband

the

at

held

on

idea

of

AND

in

The

stitching.

the

the

front, and

The

lining.

top

quarters

tongue (b) at

are
one

capped, etc., and

is

golosh

the

placed carefully in position,and

back, and

while

SHOES.

closed, etc., and

is

the

down

round, catching in the

(see C, Fig. 191).

closed

BOOTS

OF

This

description will give

according
being modified

principle,it

an

to

circumstances.

Sewing Machines.
for

There

"

Some

stitchinguppers.

stitching
three, or
of

this

at

lines of

class

of

are

one

others

the

also

are

type is used

Motion

etc.

latter
The

ornamental

or

from

of electric motors

use

when

the

from

the

from

has

of the

arrangement

of

source

essential

stitches

crewel-

foot

steam,

for
"

work,

power,

machines

is

such
etc.

power,
other

the

engine.

advantages, especially
at

considerable

where

or

distance

irregular

an

required.

for

mechanisms

or

or

gas,

many

is located
stitching-room
main

two,

making button-holes, lace-holes,

derived

obtained

being

The

for

be

may

make

manufactured

half-chain, zigzag, overseaming,

Another

will

plain

cylinder,post, or
fiat-bed,

Machines

automatically making fancy

as

of

row

stitchingsimultaneously. Machines

either

pillar description.

are

make

only

of machines

varieties

many

operation, while

an

more

are

the

formation

of

stitch

"

Device

(a)

for

carrying thread

through

the

material,

viz. the needle.

(6) Arrangement
viz. the

for

determining

the

length

of

stitch,

feed.

(c) Appliance for taking the thread and forming the

stitch, viz. the looper,
shuttle,or rotatinghook.
or
for keeping thread
threads
taut,
or
(d) Contrivance
viz. the tension.

(e) Arrangement
while

These

stitch is

results

possible strain

holding

being formed, viz.

should
to

for

the

be

material

the presser

accomplished

sewing medium,

with

whether

in
or

position
clamp.

the
it be

least

silk,

264

MANUFACTURE

THE

The

lock-stitch

under
The

second

or

value

with

the

the

sectional

that

with

view

of the

of

the

the

near

Formation

centre

The

"

oscillations

in

continuous
action

to

The

second

stroke

previously made,
drawn

up

second

loop.

similar

the

spreading
given.
of

of

This

the
will

chain

of

the

loop
be

of

needle

has

looper

detains

the

rising.

is further

the

through
The

loop

rotating looper

the

understood

is very

only during
the

of

twist

by

an

is

loop

first

looper detains

the

complete

better

the

is made

vibrating one;
a

loop.

point is arranged

the

needle

the

small

ing
gradually approach-

The

while

action

forms

is formed.

material

The

that

needle

has reached

begins to rise,and
has
previously lain

loop when

the

it goes

it

been

little.

descends

with

the needle

needle

the

by

or

needle, during

The

machine,

needle, and

the

and

the

to

to

of

arc,

that

it while

spreads

may

inter-

looper."
be by

"

restricted

the

point

194.

thread, and

looperhas

risen

twining
inter-

by

device

When

thread

enter

stitch.

by

material, and

the

its lowest

the

work

this

of

the thread.

The

shows

is formed

rotation.

closelyto

adjusted to

of the

the
of

the

accuracy

threads

two

chain-stitch

through

the

been

underside

action

the

upon

thread.

Fig. 193, A,

beneath

The

upper

the

possible; Fig. 193, B, gives

as

top and

of Stitch.

the

has

material.

looping a single thread

Fig.

depends

lock-stitch, the

of the

appearance

of

interlockingpoint

centre

as

the

thread

interlocking of

the

by

of this class of stitch

which

fall in

is formed

SHOES.

AND

BOOTS

OF

the

thread

is

examination

Fig. 194.
To

form

lock-stitch

charged with thread, which

loop formed by the needle
upper
thread.

thread

is thrown

over

shuttle

or

is made
on

the

its

rotatinghook
to

pass

upward

is used

through

journey, or

spool containing the

the
the

under

UPPER

FITTING

The
it

needle

before

as

lowest
be

point begins
the

the

rise

to

point

it and

loop,enlarging
when

of the

taking

needle

by. Fig.
hook

loops

out

by

for

leather

grooves,
to

carry

owing
the

The

the

slack-

thread

have

work

196.
with

rotary

by Fig. 196.

sewing-machine depends upon

two

necessary

through
the

the

thread,

tendency

of

after

close

to

piercing.
One

of
than

longer
when

needle

other, and

the

(Fig. 197, A)

groove
away

the
short

the

from

shuttle
groove

or

long
should

point

hook.

in

needle

bar, the

is

grooves

setting the

the

be

the

of

Fig.

197.

The

(Fig. 197, B)

should

always

is illustrated

Needles

needle.

material

to

thrown

are

rendered

to

of

its

highest point,a

stitch

the

is illustrated

action

that

of

this

under

This

is formed.

formation

The

"

its

loop

enters

it the
to

with

it reaches
causes

Fig.

similar, and

is very

the

with

195.

195.

Needles.

shuttle

returned

has

This

slowly.

complete interlockingstitch

Fig.

when

sewing material, and

the

265

CLOSING.

through the material, taking

descends

thrown, and

and

OR

MACHINING

AND

face

the

shuttle

266

or

hook
the

the

latter

long

looper

shuttle

the

long

to the

protectsthe

groove

hook

or

AND

the

to

enter, is performed by

loop (Fig. 197, C),

threading

short groove

thread

SHOES.

of

Similarly,when

groove.

from

BOOTS

throwing

The

point.

for

thread

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

from

always

up,

(Fig.197, D). The

undue
injury during

Sufficient sewing material

through the material.
paid out through the eye of the needle to form a

its passage
be

must

for

loop large enough

hook

to

through.

After

the

the

thread

shuttle

or

drawn

again
of

eye
it

is

the

and

as

relation

the
that

so

passing

to

The

thread.

eye of the needle

be

be

friction

to

the

fro of the

and

sage,
pas-

through
needle,

by

pass

must

subjected

caused

the

fore
there-

must

perfectlysmooth,
large as possiblein
size of

the

to

the

needle.
needle

If the

large

size

the

for

stitches; and

miss

if it be too

and

in such

top

of the
in

file-mark
the hook
if too

low

in

hole

Figs. 221
the

it is

shank

should

222, the needle

that

the

Care
needle

likelyto damage
have

In

and

the

same

the

small, the

self-setting,

is

be inserted

needle-bar.

larly,
simi-

of the machines

most

needle

the

needle-bar.

machines

set, it should

Fig. 198.

the

cases

on

the

will

will be broken.

thread
In

the

of

machine

thread, the

Fig. 198.

be too

eye

the

is set
hook.

relation

machines

should

should

rightto
be

be

the

trated
illus-

set to the

taken

with

correctly,because
When
correctly

as

that

shown

by

FITTING

UPPER

When

AND

of the

groove
the

When

needle, and

advisable

loop

may

be

twisted

similar

the

other
The

work
as

is
eye

way,

thrown

those

the

of the

the

267

threading

thread

end

until

in the

it enters

thread

is

in

twist

needle,

the

on

hook

is

that

so

of

the

199.
will

thread

the

needle

the

the

squarely

it

employed,

will

be

be

treated

slightlyturned

in
in

direction.

point
the

but

end

slightly turn

to

reverse

the

lowering

Fig.
shuttle.

CLOSING.

by Fig. 199.

hard

extra

sometimes
the

by placing

illustrated

as

eye,

OR

rotary presser-wheel is used

be facilitated

may

MACHINING

of the

points are
used

needle
chisel-

for fabric.

variously positioned in
of the needle.

The

sharp, and

be

must

of

shaped, instead
The

direction

taper

chisel-shaped or

relation

to

the

of the

for leather
or

round,

flat

direction

point
of the

cutting or piercing

268

THE

point

MANUFACTURE

OF

of the needle

in relation

largelydetermines
in the

pointed
point
for

is

more

has

to be

the

line of

stitchingvery

stitch

of

off,"a needle

stitch

stitching; but
for

or

that

work

stitchingis required.

sometimes
for
cloth, linings, fabrics, and
leathers, a needle with a round
point ( " ) is used.
of needle

is also advisable

Needles

that

stitch is

required

a
as

"

thus

is

pearly

well

"

point that

thus

the

to

what

stitch

is

This

required to

cuts\, points should

When

leather.

that

be

be

known

makes

used

that

cut

than

sunken

more

the

where

is sometimes

stitch,a point is selected

the

drawn

required,giving

If the

"

to be

for work

used

are

light

stitchingelastic gussets.

for

perforatethus /

face stitch

slit

the

cuts

For

kind

the

punctures the

work,

stout

posited
de-

differently

"pearly"

stitch and

or

when

of work

to the line

heavy

hammered

"

kinds

spreads the

for

stitch

line of

For

less transverse

SHOES.

AND

of the

various

selected.

that

or

parallelto

to the

appearance
For

are

one

sunken

that

work.

needles

used

leather

the

BOOTS

puncture

|.
Various

names

of their needles
The

W.

"

"

; for instance

W."

the

given by

are

for

makers

points

the

"

are"

names

Eeverse.
Flat.

and

Cross

flat.

that

cut

used

for Face

Sunk

O.S.

Spear.

$
Sunk

stitch.

Twist.

Twist.

stitch.

Sunk

\
Sunk

stitch.

slitch.

stitch.

The

Singer

"

"

Bound.
that
and

used

cut

"

Twist.

Sunk

fabric.

Cross,

Wedge.

Keverae.

"

for Elastic
and

are

names

Flowering

Drawn

stitch.

face

stitch.

Sunken

or

stitch.

more
"

The

Bradbury

Co.

Flat
that

The

or

the

following:

the

needle

"

Cross,

Twist.

chisel.

cut

point of

use

than

reverse."

/
may

be

named

in

reference

to

UPPER

FITTING

the

direction

and

would

AND

MACHINING

in relation

it takes

be

follows

as

The

the

to

needle-eyeplane,

"

of needle
"

leather

"

""

eye

point would

cut

"

''reverse"

"

"

"

round

of

size

is known

is not

that

This

makers.

the

using Stubbs'

this variance

partly accounts

of

The

needle

with

that

is

material

enable

will

with

Feeds.

similar

Some

"

the

few

tests

taken

givenWheeler's
,,

Jones'

No.
...

...

""

?"

""

""

?"

Jones'

...

(Hollington's make)

Singer's(Hollington's)

)"

(Perkins')

...

Singer's(Company's)

needle

ing
select-

the
be

one

when

of the

of

the

stitching

softness
used

of

when

thread.

must
at

to

sizes

to choose

filled up

nature

few

given

when

thread," is
well

Perhaps

various

in mind

fortunately
un-

desirable

that, with

selection,as

substance

arrangement

of

results

"

The

smaller-sized

bear

size

micrometer.

employ

will be

place.

in

by making

for the fact

given

that
its

closers

number, but

seen

or

point to

also influence

will

The

hole

depositedin

compared

use

punctures

thread

silk

to

be

gauge

needle, various

stitchingmaterial.

by

uniformity

can

tests,*either

number

"

needle

there
among

cloth

or

"

The

269

CLOSING.

direction
"

OR

the

be

eye

provided
of the

needles

to

move

are

here

THE

2;o

the

along

work

by given

be

must

automatic, and
the

beyond

The

the

In

above

it

it

as

(2) The

by

machines

and

222.

feed

the

feed

for the

mechanical

and

of

work, pressure
enables
is in

foot

material,

to

the

with

length of

to

stitch.

repetitionof

the
the

and

(1).

constructed
is

of

feature

by Figs.221

288

under-feed consists of a device under

being continuouslydelivered from above
foot before
commencing to sew.
presser
operator

it,using it

motions

motion

in machines

pp. 287

on

the

work,

work.

be found

can

required,followingthe
The

is

motion

"

foot

of

an

foot, controlled

serrated

for

ready

illustrated

by lowering

of

as

to

the

turn

to

centre

contour

of the

while

sharply

the
when

turn

part being stitched.

this

of

under-feed

the

work

type

are

as

enters

or

:
"

feed

(1) The
presses

(2)

to the

up

desired

the

rises,and

its serrated

amount,
teeth

surface

side of the material

under

feed,together with

The

(3) The
with

the

to settle the

four-motion

The

afore

operator

top-feedor

binding,patching, repairing,
etc.,and

the

follows

of

pressure

pressure

of

foot returns

style of

for flat

needle

the

several

consist

motions

foot lifted from

The

(4) The

This

motion

were.

amount

This

of

means

movement

determined

the

This

upon

either

be

may

(1) Applicationunder

(3)

stitch.

are

fop-feed the

four

The

spring.

clamp

perfect regularity,

amount

There

feed

four-motion

under-feed.
appliedfrom
a

the

of

of the

time.

to

in

SHOES.

performing this.

of

ways

time

AND

dependent

not

determination

from

work

BOOTS

amounts

determining the length

thus

by

OF

MANUFACTURE

the work,

being stitched.
forward

moves

thus

deciding the lengthof

the

feed

of

material, which

is

is held

lowered
in

out

the
of

position by

the
stitch.

contact

the

top

pressure.

(4)

The

feed

Passing by

returns

the

ready

to

"drop-feed"

motion

perform
and

"

(1).

draw-feed,"

the

MANUFACTURE

THE

272

case
weavers

OF

AND

BOOTS

to chafe
not
so
as
perfectlysmooth
or
boat-shaped shuttle, familiar

chieflyused

for

thread.

the
to

known

type of motion

SHOES.

reciprocating.

as

is illustrated

lever

race

the

the

^0

with

limited

Its

needle.

paid

thread

out

that

objection is

varies

as

For

to

reversing

good

appearance

50

222

be

centre
cent,

amount

1^ inches.
thread

the

on

of

end

or

the

when

strain

more

the

taken

and

about

strain

one

ends.

form

speed is

stitch,where
of

shuttle

not

every

answers

vital

ment.
require-

reciprocatingboat-shaped shuttles
usually provided with independent take-ups,owing
with

not

small

amount

of

"

slack

Fig. 202.
pass

per

is

through

The

other.

or

the

from

beginning
only adapted

paid out

is

would

the

at

and

passage

see-saw

in any

tension

nearly

the

Machines

to the

slack

the

from

consideration, this

are

than

it is delivered

spool,amounting
delivered

as

the

Owing

deposited with

be

to

thread

Less

of shuttle

this form

round
of

of the

eye

by

fro in

type of shuttle

This

stitching thread

the

and

to

of motion

form

speed.

of friction caused

minimum
the

of

range

the

allows

that

it is

complete motion,

with

plane.

same

conclusion
of each

by Fig. 201,

travels

and

201

folk, is

most

reciprocatingshuttle

The

pi

The

through.
have

The

this form

"

for the

needed

shuttle

to

Fig. 203.
machines
of shuttle.

illustrated

in

Figs.221

and

UPPER

FITTING

oscillatingshuttle

The
shuttle

contains

OR

is shown

273

202.

This

by Fig.

the

is freer from

to-and-fro

in

one,

illustrated

machines

restricted

arc

and

by Figs.213

tively
rela-

bobbin, that

disc-shapedspool or

CLOSING.

of thread, and
large amount
angular strain when deliveringthe thread.
contains

is

MACHINING

AND

of
219

The

motion
The

circle.

this

have

type

of shuttle.

rotary hook

The

is

extensively used for sewingby Figs.203 and 204, the latter

now

is illustrated

machines, and

Fig. 204.
also

twisted

loop,and, owing
have

215
The

spool or
opened

by Fig.

bobbin
and

the

the

to

position.

size of the
illustrated

It

throws

hook, takes

by Figs. 205

type of shuttle.

rotary shuttle

illustrated

shown

this

in

case

Machines

of slack.

large amount
and

bobbin

the

showing

is

206.

case
case

form

The

much

in

The

bobbin

but

use,

(Fig. 207)
Fig. 208 shows

block

closed,while
removed.

not

shows
the

is
the

same

is also

case

by Fig. 209.
T

274

THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

UPPER

TENSION

THREAD

FITTING

AND

MACHINING

DISC-"

CONTROLLER

"

Fig. 206.

fig. 207.

OR

CLOSING.

275

276

THE

OF

MANUFACTURE

Fig.

BOOTS

208.

Fig. 209.

Fig. 210.

AND

SHOES.

UPPER

AND

FITTING

MACHINING

OR

CLOSING.

277

Fig. 211.
Tensions.
threads

may

"

The

tensions

be either upper

or
or

placed

tautness

under.

The

upper

upon
tension

the
is

THE

278

MANUFACTURE

the

arranged by
tension

as

210.

the

shuttle,actuated

perfectly uniform
the

material

tension

is

kept

tension

lock

stitched.

In

be

The

vibratory.

the

feed, and

it

foot

be

place

the
or

spring pressure

can

top

Where

"

the

of the

eye

of the

is to

by

the

shuttle,or the hook

has

passed through

it should

take-up,and,
be

before

to its

through

out

of the

dip

required. Its
passed round

the

passant, it is

en

always brought
stitch,or

to

it has

upon

removed,

amount

is

may

tion
examina-

an

paid

loop

is the

after

work

is shown

the

commencing
the

greater than

the

of

bulk

the

independent take-up

pull

under

the

keeps

up

Fig. 212,
that

is

needle-bar, an

function
the

needle

of

variety,or

of slack

amount

centre

tension.

readily understood

the

is

wheel

the face plate

Fig. 211, where
exposing the spring,etc.

Take-ups.

threads

in the

machines

of
thus

two

Fig.

in

A,

screw,

possible,the

as

either

be

may

regulatedby

is

the

high-speed

adjustment being performed with

Pressers

of

known

discs

two

small

take

may

constant

as

by

SHOES.

AND

passing between
(B, Fig. 212). The lower

essential,so that
the

BOOTS

thread

discs

spring in

OF

in

loop. D,

noted

be

to

highest point before

work

the

removing

from

machine.

Check-springs. These

are

"

They
stiff or

lightthe

troublesome

Direction

in

It

should

the

This

"

and

the

be

can

operator

in

(Fig. 215).

right

the
and

is

hands

The

of

Thomas'

No.

machines

revolve

(Fig. 206)
(Fig.219).

Jones'

in

user

ence
refer-

improved

(Fig. 213), Singer's Right-hand

Cylinder,Singer's Buttonhole

(Fig.221)

too

comment.

should

wheel

Bradbury's
the

by

further

no

Cylinder

towards

Wilson's

needs

balance

Singer Left-hand
revolve

readily understood

thus

The

"

(Fig. 205), Singer's I.M.

as

trollers.
con-

and
if they are
safety-valves,
the thread
and if too weak
slip,

212, and

of Motion.

from

and

stitches

up.

Figs.206

to

as

thread

termed

work.

to

Threading

away

act

sometimes

(Fig. 218), and

wheel
clock

leather

should
in

turn

Thomas'

machine

Wheeler
from
circular

(Fig. 222).

and
left to
head

28o

MANUFACTURE

THE

OF

friction

tension,materials,and
and

thread, other

The

shuttle
reciprocating

while

the

The
from

200

driven

at

Some

350.

to

for leather

speed
much

very

of the

other

from

kinks

knots.

or

the

of

not
must

are

reverse

twisted

for

the

and

rightly twisted

for

such

and

Thomas.

There

carefully selected
thrown

Their

Silk

Threads

has

B., Howe,

Jones

as

one

machines,

Wilson

and

thread.

on

entering.

machines

twist

improper

an

hook

Singer

follows

as

up

be

looselyor

generally three

are

used, viz. silk, cotton, and

brieflysummed

or

too

too

loops being

side,thus preventingthe shuttle

long fibres,free

of

be

machine,

stitches,the

missed

stitching

for upper

composed

"twist"

be

may

speed.

Threads

"

should

kind

particular

causing

be

It

The

tightly twisted.
for

should

purposes

of

to be

said

be

may

specialmachines

greater rate

Threads, Silks,Cottons, etc.

and

work

200,

to

up

per minute.

300

to

up

speed.

the

higher

be driven

may

be driven

finer the needle

The

points.

machine

SHOES.

AND

things being equal,the

oscillating
may

average

BOOTS

closing agents
merits

be

may

is
elasticity,

much

of

is soft,and
lends
itself easily to the
good appearance,
tensile
The
threadways.
passing through the various
be about
5 Ibs. for black
breaking strain for No. 16 would

dyed,
for

for white

whereas

yellow

natural

or

no

is

stretch.

work,

to

much

Thread

closing. It

account

similar

is
is

as

the

most

practically

agent with
of
and

selection

resistingabrasive
It

strength.
of

"

finish

soft

"

does

some
is trouble-

silk,and

has

the

medium

friction

of the

three

under

bobbin

thread, with

silk

hardness, it takes

size in silk.

The

used

material

troublesome

strong, and

of its

stands

Silk

Ibs.

difficulty.

the

Ibs.,while

agents.

as

appearance

although

to abrasive

largelyused

nice

cheapness

about

7J

highest power

for

this

removes

power

the

It has

present such

not

three

hard, smooth, surfaced

It is used

friction.

On

be

it is about

colour

friction of either

least abrasive

Cotton

it would

of

amount

It is

notice.
as

top

will show

one.

than

largerneedle

following table

for

"

UPPER

FITTING

Size of needle.

20-24

...

1"

matured

The

quantity

...

leathers, ^ with
of

silk

for

make

be resorted
The

works

of

machine

that

Points

is free from

freely,but
close to the

as

thread

be

passage

over

paid

needle

the

shuttle

material) and

passed

when

flat-bedtype

every

kind

and

there

Various

through.

is shown

in

Fig. 213.

for

trimming
closing. Two
the

For

same

the
or

seam
more

number

of slack

the

of

for

needle

has

after the needle

friction

the

points to

size of the bobbin.

; the

of stitch

attachments

very
that

machines

or

large variety.

perform almost

stitches

that

can

affixed, such

are

as

large quantity of work to

instance, the High Speed Singer

enable

To
at

be attached

this

can

the

same

needle-bars
of

rows

of

of the

varieties

and

214A

trimmer

operation as that of
be provided, percan
forming
the number
as
stitching

the

provided. By causing
dozen
two
needle-bar,some

produced. Figs.214

feed- wheel

the amount

of needles

be

the

take-up (which must

; the

comprise

are

the shuttle

rigid,and

eye

position;

combination

trimmers, guides that

put

its

that

"

is

the thread

up

These

"

In the

desired.

hook

threadingup

Special Machines.

the

are

that

oot
presser-f

possible;

as

or

independent,pulling

left the

the

through

out

; that

the

when

attention

consideration

cramped

should

the needle.

play laterally
;

too

not

by

require

under

is

(if used) is positive; that

be

by

seam

off"

"hammering

to, to close the holes made

the needle-bar

be

of

yard

yard by chain-stitch,

each

solid seam,

good

Mechanical

selection

be

each

For

be

can

seam

4J yards.

To

be

of

given length

used.

be

silk may

22

say

"

set

of 0 size with

needle

glace,a

approximately calculated thus

about
2 J yards ; for
lock-stitch,
about

...

...

as

60

used, while for calf kid and similar substances

be

and

70

30

20

light materials, such

silk may

22

...

...

12-14

...

80

40
...

16-18

...

For

"

...

...

18-20

...

Thread.

Cotton.

Size of silk.

281

CLOSING.

OR

MACHINING

AND

show

horizontal

movement

of stitches

the head

and

may
under

282

THE

MANUFACTURE

OF

Fig. 213.

Fig. 2U.

BOOTS

AND

SHOES.

FITTING

UPPER

MACHINING

AND

Fig.

of

Singer

No.

varieties

of ornamental

machine

which

can

32

also

215.

machine, which

stitches.
be

283

CLOSING.

2UA

Fig.
view

OR

Fig. 215
arranged for

makes
shows
various

some

33

Wheeler
purposes.

284

Trimmers,

more

or

one

Figs. 215A,

sketch

of

rows,

two

rows,

BOOTS

etc.,are

SHOES.

AND

the

among

ments.
arrange-

Fig. 2I5D.

Fig. 2150.

Fig. 215B.

Fig. 215A.

In

OF

MANUFACTURE

THE

and

215B, 215C,

215D,

and

over-seam

shown

are

variety

stitch

spectively. These
machines

be

holes worked

crewel

or

work

produced upon

machines,

Fancy

machine.

Wilson

patterns
also

seven

some

upon

(Fig.

the latter illustration

216), and
shows

of

arranged

lace- holes

working

for

re-

classes

also be

can

Wilson

by Fig.

shown

as

caii

217.
Button-holes

Fig. 216.
is the

best

Singer

for

driven

Cylinder

either

speed, or upon
by foot-power.

machines

are

useful

upon

can
a

be worked

Reece, which

Singer. Fig. 218

for

shows

goloshingand stitching

Fig. 217.

Fig. 218.

286

THE

MANUFACTURE

work

put together without

shows

sketch

Pillar

Singer

R.H.

219

machine.

are

also

closingreferred
One
vertical hook
of the high-speed,
the
Fig. 220, and Fig. 2 20 A shows
of

method

SHOES.

AND

previous pasting. Fig.

post machines

or

adopting the
in

of

BOOTS

OF

when

very

useful

to

p. 260.

on

is shown

machines
hook

and

spool and

Fig. 219.

vertical
The

shaft
Thomas

constructed
to work

that

in

that
any

imparts

head

circular
the

elastics,
putting

mover

in

Fig.221.

on

motion
or

"

"

direction

in

the

or

to the

universal

hook.
machine

presser-footcan

required.

It is useful

toe-cap patches,etc.,and

is

so

be made
for

pulling

is shown

288

THE

The
make

MANUFACTURE

reciprocating
is

shown

in

BOOTS

OF

Fig.

shuttle

leather

222.

Fig.

222.

OF

UNIVERSITY

THE

SHOES.

AND

machine

of

the

same

INDEX

digiti,25

minimi

ABDUCTOR

Bones, composition of, 6

25
pollicis,
Adductor
27
pollicis,

cuboid,

cuneiform, 9

in childhood, 5

Adhesives, 253
Adult

foot,37

Alden's

"

metatarsal, 9

="

of foot,7

scale, 69, 74, 75

of

leg, 6
propertiesof, 4
scaphoid, 9

Alligator,231
Allowances

for

lastingover,

124
,

lasting,169

"

to be

made,

when

55

form, how

observations,

Anatomy
,

various
,

of heel-measure, 52

Angle

Bony

foot, 56

lasts,108
taking impressions,58

for

Breech

pattern,

Button

boots,159,

Ankle, weak,

Calf
-

kid,

226

skins, 225

Camper's sole-shapes,86
theory, 38
Cartilage,5

of foot, 13

Arteries,

28

Astragalus, 8

Casts, plaster,48
Characteristics

BAGGING

machines,

Ball-measure, 62
wood,

11

patent, 228

transverse, 13

Arches

ligament,

girth,59

Arch, longitudinal,13

102

Bespoke cutting,225
patterns, 170
Block

224

Button-piece headers, 253

CALCANEO-SCAPHOID

11

Ankle-joint,10
Ankle-measure, 59
Anticus
17
tibialis,

Beech

101

skin, 205

Animal

surement,
mea-

of, 4

uses
,

Box

divisions, 2, 3

position of

Boot

32

shoemakers',

74

62

determined,

of foot, 2

determine

to

of measurements,

system of measuring,
Anatomical

tarsal, 7

61

measuring,
scale

American

lasts,108

257

of

feet

at

different

periods,36
Charme

wood,

102

Check-spring, 278
Chopping, 105
Clasp bone,
C 'lassed

standard

07

measures,
U

INDEX.

290

Feet, full,47

of feet, 44

Classification

Classifying lasts,108
Clicking, 204
principles,217
Comb

slim,

of animal

usually

skin, 205

Fibula,

Fitting up lasts, 116

without

Costing, 234
Cote grading machine,
Cottons,280
Cuboid
bone, 9

98

Flat

foot, 11-14

Fleshy foot, 56
Flexor

bones, 9

accessorius, 27
brevis

21
pollicis,

"

Derbies, 165

with

Foot, arches

sides,178
when
measuring
without
weight of

elastic

and

impressions,58

I ody,

adult, 37

the

Divisions

of

Dorsal

2,

determined,

of stitch, 26 1

Formation

156

40

taken, 59

anatomical, how

Form,

81

Drafting standards,

to be

Foot-measures

interossei,28

Draft, 56,

walking,

when

Footfalls

qualities,222

of anatomy,

the. 50, 53

measuring

Disposing

of, 7

foot

56
of motion, 278

of, 13

bones

Direction

digiti,27

25
pollicis,
longus digitorum, 21

62

Diiferences

digitorum, 27
minimi

waists, 108

Designing

pasting,260

Fittings,68, 117

Cutting patterns,119
DEAD

"vith,46

met

variety,34

Femur,

of foot, 2

Deductions,

46

types of, 42

Comparative system, 181

Composition of bone, 6
Constructing sole-shapes,86
principles,91
upon

Cuneiform

difference, 47

national
,

lasts,108

Construction

long, 47

Forme,

120,

French

measurements,

129

79

Drop waists, 108

Dutch

measurements,

Duties

of measurer,

79
55

raising heel,

EFFECT

of

sides, 164

84

Girth

measurements,

Glove

pedistat,64
brevis

Goat

digitorum,

longus digitorum, 17
17
proprius pollicis,

24

skins, 229

Goloshes,

151

Grading,

179

machines,

Feeds,
Feet

at
,

and

98
94
fittings,

systems,

Fascia, plantar, 1 3

61

61

hide, 230

sizes

FACINGS, 164

80

kid, 229

English sizes,54
Extensor

decreases,
increases,

"

Elevations, 66
Ellis's

system, 186

Geometric
German

Elastic

19

GASTRO-CNEMIUS,

96

Grain, 230

269

different

average,

47

periods,36

HANNIBAL'S

Heart-wood,

sole-shape,88
103

INDEX.

Heel

angle, 52
elevating,84
girth,59
Heel-girth locator, 64
Heel-measure,

291

Lasts, slipper,111
where
wood
,

bones

Leg,

59

Length allowances, 61
Ligaments, 11

Historic, 1
Hooks, 271

calcaneo-scaphoid,11

hides, 228

interosseus, 11

bone

How

is nourished, 5

plantar,11

to

of, 6

position,126
Leg-measure, 59

79

Hides, 205

Horse

used, 102

muscles, 16

in foot, 52

Heel-measures,

spring

Huckle-bone,

151

vamps,

Line

of contact, 82

of muscular
Lines

IMPRESSION-BOX,

action, 24

of stretch, 220

58

of

tightness,220

Impression-paper,58
Impressions of foot, 58
Improved scale, 76

Lining patterns,

Inclination, 128

Long heel-measure,

tape, 62

Interosseus

Longitudinal arch, 13
Longus digitorum, extensor,

ligament,

11

Lower

79

measurements,

limbs,

Lumbricales,

JOINT, ankle, 10

Machinery, 232
for making
Markers, 164

in foot, 11

231

Measure

to be

of construction

of

sections, 101

foot,2

the

61

French,

German,

105
,

115
,

-,

sectional, 109

shoe,

on,

80

foot, 53

positionsof, 3
scale

of, 68

Measurer, the,
116

observations

111

79

Irish,79
of the

boot, 110

comb, 108
fittingup,

sheets, 67

allowances, 125

Last-making machinery,
Last-measuring machine,
Lasts, block, 108

foot, 59

foot, 50

Measurements, Dutch,

Lasting allowances, 169

of

operation,59
Measurement

taken

Measuring allowances,
105

Knowledge

over

lasts,105

May's sole-shapes,88

231

LAST

27

Cote, 98
grading, 98

girth-measure, 59

KANGAROO,

17

MACHINE,

Joints, 10

Kips, 205
Knifing,

62

work, 193

Instep-bone,9
Instep-measure, 59

Kip,

169

Locater, heel-girth,64

Ink, 249

Irish

113

to measure,

55

Measures, tape,
115

Mechanics
Medium

55

of foot, 30

68
fitting,
Medullary rays, 103

79

INDEX.

292

of bone,

Membrane

buttoned

Men's

laced

interossei,27

ligament, 11,

boots, 260

boots, 259

Plantaris, 19

bones,

Plaster

Metatarsal

23

casts, 47

moulds,

constructingsole-shapes,

for

Methods

Plantar

48

Potlameter, Scott's, 63

86

Pointed

Meyer's line, 39
sole-shapes,86

toes, 93

Porpoise, 231

theory, 38
Military positionof standing, 39
Mode
of walking, 37
of fitting,
Modes
254

Positions

Muscles, 15

Principles of clicking,217

in the

to

foot,21,

"

bones,

lasts,113

measure

Preparation

of skin, 206

Pressers, 278

of scale

leg, 16

of the

of measurement

24

of measurements,

of sole-shapes,81

Production

Profile, 129
of muscles,

NAMING

Properties of bone, 4
Proportions in feet, 35

15

68
fitting,

Narrow

in infants, 36

foot, 37
difference

National

of sole, 82

in feet, 47

of sole for various

Needles, 265
Nerves, 28
Ninth

system, 74
QUARTER
anatomical, 32

OBSERVATIONS,

proportions

Obtaining

of

soles

sizes,91

various

Operation
Os

sizes, 91

extensor,
Proprius pollicis,

of

measuring,

Quarter-inch

59

heel,

shoe, 1

Rubbing

of foot, 57, 81

84

Rise, 68
Roman

Osteology, 4

system, 70

for
RAISING

calcis,7

Outline

patterns, 169

255

seams,

Running,

30

Russia, 230
PARIS
points,55
Pass-May grading, 94
sole-shape,88

Pattern-cutting,119
Pattern-making, 119
Patterns, breech, 101
to

last, 122

Pedistat, Ellis's,64

Pencilling round the foot, 57

Peroneus
brevis, 19
longus, 18
tertius,18

Phalanges,

10

hide, 230
SANDALS,

Sap-wood,
Satin

103

hide, 230
shoe,

Saxon

Scale, Alden's, 69
,

American,

improved,

74
76

quarter-inch,70
with breaks, 72

Scales

of measurements,

Scaphoid-bone, 9

Plan, 56

Scollops,161
Scott's podameter,

Plans,

Seams,

Pitch, 106, 125

Plantar

66

fascia, 13

169

Seam-to-toe,

224

63

68

17

68

INDEX.

150
Springing of vamps,
Square toes, 93
Standard
drafting,156

Seat, 82
Sectional

lasts,109

Sections

of lasts, 101
262

Sewing machines,
Sewrounds,

Sheep

129

pattern,

201

28

measurements,

entering

for

67

measures,

skins, 229

Sheets

107

Spring,

104

Seasoning woods,

293

67

Standing,
four-squareposition,39
military position,39
,

Stanley last-measuring machine,

185

Shifting systems,

Stitches, 263

Shin-bone,

Straight lasts,32

butts, 230

Shoe

lasts,

Stretch, 220

111

of bones, 4

Study

225

anatomy,

Shoemakers'

of wood, 103

Structure

standards, 140
vamps,

115

of cutting, 209

Systems

grading,

of

Shoes, 179

96

Shuttles, 271
Side lace, 163

TAKE-DPS,

Silks, 280

Taking
fittings" grading, 94

and

Sizes

Tape
Tarsal

Skin, 28

Tendon
construction

selection of, 206

55

bones, 7
Achilles, 19
277

Tensions,

Theory, Camper's,
Meyer's, 38

205

Skins,

of, 205

draft, 57

measures,

Size-stick, 54
anatomical

279

38

Skiving, 244
247

machines,

Tibia, 6

foot, 37

Slim

area,

anticus, 17

Tibialis

Slipper lasts,111
Sole

280

Threads,

posticus,20
Tightness, 220

81

82
proportions,

arch, 13

Transverse

Sole-impressions,58

Transversus

Sole-shapes,81

Tread, 82

Camper's,86

Treatment

of

constructing, 86

Turning

in, 249

Hannibal's, 88

Types

Meyer's, 86
Pass-May, 88
upon

various

soles, 51

of feet, various

169

UNDERLAYS,

sizes,91
types, 51

edges, 256

of feet, 42

91
principles,

Soles

pedis,27

Upper fitting,243
of bones, 4

Uses

Soleus, 20
Sorting lasts

in

pairs,104

Soule's

system,

120

Special machines,
Splits,231

Spokes, 103

144

VAMPS,

232
qualities,

281

springing,150

Variety

in feet, 35
scales

Various
use,

70

of

measurement

in

INDEX.

294

"

Width

82

WAIST,

buttoned

Women's

62

measure,

"

proportionsof sole, 81
boots, 258

laced,257

Waists, dead, 108

Woods,

drop, 108
Walking, 28

beech, 192

the
,

Wax

Way
Weak

footfalls,40

calf skins, 225

of

tight,222

ankle,

BY

WILLIAM

CLOWES

AND

102

heart, 103

sap, 103

structure,
used

11

THE

PRINTED

charme,

103

for lasts, 102

END.

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Vertical

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to

from.

Order.

Copy

Guaranteed.

TREE.

TREES.

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Selling Trees

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The

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in the

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(Light

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Weight

facturers

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FILLERS.

Kingdom

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