ABS, A/C, ASCD, Auto

Choke, Brake Lamp,

Charge Warning, Cooling
Fan, Defogger, Door
Lock, ECS, EFI
Computer, Fog Lamp,
Fuel Pump, Head amp,
Heater, Horn, Ignition
Control, Lamp Check,
PowerWindow,Starter,
Sun Roof, Tail Lamp,
Wiper Motor etc
Japanese Veh. usage

All vehicles of
Japanese origin
Isuzu, Nissan

Air Conditioner, Head

Lamp, Horn, Tail Lamp
etc.

All vehicles of
Japanese origin
Toyota

ABS, A/C, ASCD, Auto

Choke, Brake Lamp,
Charge Warning, Cooling
Fan, Defogger, Door
Lock, ECS, EFI
Computer, Fog Lamp,
Fuel Pump, Head amp,
Heater, Horn, Ignition
Control, Lamp Check,
PowerWindow,
Starter,Sun Roof, Tail
Lamp, Wiper Motor etc
Universal Application.

All vehicles of
American &
Japanese Origin
Acura, Honda,
Chrysler, Daihatsu,
Ford, Eagle, Geo,
Lexus, Mitsubishi,
Subaru, Suzuki,
Toyota

ABS, A/C, ASCD, Auto

All vehicles of
Choke, Brake Lamp,
European,
Charge Warning, Cooling Japanese & Korean
Fan, Defogger, Door
Origin
Lexus, Toyota,
Lock, ECS, EFI
Daewoo,Hyundai
Computer, Fog Lamp,
Fuel Pump, Head amp,
etc.
Heater, Horn, Ignition
Control, Lamp Check,
PowerWindow,Starter,Sun
Roof, Tail Lamp, Wiper
Motor etc
Universal Application.

Circuit Description
As shown in the diagram we can see a straightforward configuration where a single transistor is connected
in its standard operating mode.
The circuit functioning may be understood with the help of the following points:
Considering the battery to be charged is a 12 volt battery, we know that it is advised to charge the battery
until it reaches between 13.5 and 14 volts.
The transistor base voltage is adjusted using the preset P1, such that the transistor just conducts and
operates the relay at around 14 volts.
This adjustment becomes the high voltage trip point of the circuit and is used to switch OFF the charging
voltage to the battery when it gets fully charged or its voltage reaches around 14 volts.
The lower trip point of the circuit cannot be adjusted as this circuit is too simple and does not incorporate
the low voltage detection feature.
However the transistor is itself equipped with a switch OFF feature in case its base voltage becomes too
low.
Typically a general purpose transistor like the one which is shown (BC547) when adjusted to switch ON at
14 volts may have the lower threshold of around 10 volts, when it might get just switched OFF.
This wide voltage difference between the high set threshold and the lower natural threshold is because of
the involved big hysteresis with the design.
The lower threshold of 10 volts is dangerously low and we cannot wait for the circuit to restart the charging
process until the battery voltage falls to this dangerous 10 volts level.
Allowing the battery to discharge down to 10 volts can make the battery flat permanently and reduce its life.
.
Therefore to eliminate this issue the circuit needed to somehow reduce the hysteresis level. This is done by
introducing a couple of diodes at the emitter of the transistor.
We know that normally a 1N4007 diodes would drop around 0.7 volts across it and two if them would make
a total of 1.4 volts.
By inserting the two diodes in series with the emitter of the transistor, we force the transistor to switch off
1.4 V earlier than its normal specified limit of 10 volts.

Therefore now the lower operating threshold of the circuit becomes 10 + 1.4 = 11.4 volts, which may be
considered just OK for the battery and for the automatic restart of the charging process.
Having both the thresholds updated as per the standard charging requirements, we now have an automatic
automotive battery charger thats not only cheap to build but also smart enough to take care of the battery
charge conditions very efficiently.

Parts List
R1 = 4K7
P1 = 10K preset,
T1 = BC547B,
Relay = 12V, 400 Ohms, SPDT,
TR1 = 0 - 14V, current 1/10th of the battery AH
Bridge diodes = Equal to the current rating of the transformer,
Emitter diodes = 1N4007,
C1 = 100uF/25V
1.

Check the battery. If you do not have sufficient voltage and cranking power, the car simply won't start. The proper voltage is 12.6
volts for a normal car battery. You can test the voltage using a simple multimeter available at most hardware stores. Have
someone attach booster cables to your battery if the engine seems to be turning over slower than normal. If the battery seems
charged, and the starter motor still doesn't turn the engine, the problem may be in your starter motor itself, or the battery cables.
Changing the starter is not too complicated, but if you decide to attempt this, try to find someone who has done it before to help
you, or buy a do it yourself manual that has a description and pictures of what you need to do. Some cars such as Fords have
starter solenoid mounted on the inside fender that you can test to see if the voltage is going thru to the starter motor, if not, some
times you can cross jump the solenoid and start the car. If the car engine is turning quick enough and doesn't try to start, next
check the fuel input to the engine.

2.

2
Make sure you have fuel in your tank. Hopefully your fuel gauge is working, but some lose calibration, and will register
remaining fuel when the tank is dry. You cannot open a true fuel injected system to look for fuel, but on older cars, you can
remove the air filter from the breather housing by taking the wing nut or other fastener off the top and lifting the cover. Here, when
you pump the accelerator pedal, you should see gasoline spray into the carburetor throttle body. Some cars have electric fuel
pumps situated in the gas tank, and having someone listen at the filler cap while you turn the ignition switch from off to run, they
will hear the pump cycle on for a few seconds, then click off when the system pressure reaches the required level. This can tell
you if the pump is not working, but changing the fuel pump is a difficult and possibly dangerous project.

3. 3
Remove a spark plug wire from your spark plug and use an insulation handled screwdriver to ground the metal fitting
inside the spark plug boot to the engine, and have someone turn the engine over while you watch for a spark. You should
have the metal screwdriver shaft about an eighth of an inch from a clean metal surface on the engine, and be careful not to touch
any uninsulated parts of the tool while testing the plug. If you do not have a spark, you have an ignition circuit problem, and
depending on the vintage of your vehicle, you may have to replace anything from a coil wire to an ignition CPU, or computer.

Edit Tips

If the owner's manual doesn't list a fuse or relay for the fuel pump, your car has a mechanical pump, and the only way to
check it is to remove a fuel line, and turn the engine over to see if gasoline comes out, but this is very dangerous!
Look at the wires, hoses, and other components under the hood. Often, one unplugged wire, or one broken vacuum or
fuel line will be the problem, and these are simple and inexpensive to fix.
Listen to your engine when you crank it. If you hear a knocking sound, backfiring, or misfiring, you may have a flooded
carburetor or a serious engine problems such as jumped timing or stuck or broken valves.
Check the owner's manual for fuses, relays, and circuit breakers related to either fuel or ignition. You should be able to
locate these and make sure they are not tripped or blown. In the relay block, you can exchange relays that are the same
size from another component, such as the AC blower, to test the ignition relay.
Even when your car doesn't start when you try the ignition, it may show a "code", or information stored in the computer,
that can be accessed by a technician to find the source of your problem. This may be a "check engine" light, or other
indicator.
It is not possible to cover all the reasons a car won't crank in this article, but if you are able to find a do it yourself book at
a department store or auto parts supply, or your local library, they can help with specific problems.
The best thing that you should do is to have a good mechanic check your car every month so that you can predict any
problem in advance.Good luck!

How to check fuses

Electrical circuits on vehicles are protected by fuses. A fuse is designed to burn or blow out, at an
amperage below the point where damage would occur. A fuse is sized for about twice the normal circuit
draw. For instance, if a device normally draws 10 amps, it would be protected by a fuse roughly 20 amps in
size. The fuse would blow at 20 amps, which is below the current that might burn the circuit. The fuse size
is indicated by the color, and a number marked on the exposed face.

Finding a blown fuse is not always easy. There may be several fuse boxes or blocks in a vehicle. Often,
there is one or more under the dash and another under the hood or in the trunk. An owners manual is
handy in locating the box in which the suspected fuse may exist.

An easy way to test fuses is with a volt-meter. This check is done with the ignition on. With the black voltmeter lead grounded and a pointed probe on the red lead, the tiny piece of exposed metal is touched.
Touch one side of the fuses and then the other. If the meter reads current on one side, but not the other,
the fuse is bad. If neither side reads current, the circuit is not active. This means the key may need to be
on, or another problem exists upstream of the fuse.
If both sides of the fuse read current, the fuse is good. This is much easier and more certain than removing
fuses to inspect them. Many times this method will find a bad fuse, that appears to be good.

How to check a standard relay

A relay is a magnetically operated switch. The purpose is to allow a low-amperage circuit to control a
heavier device. A relay is often used with computers to control analog devices. The computer may supply
power or a ground to a low-amperage relay that turns a high-amperage device on or off.

In the diagram above, the computer supplies current to the relay, which is grounded. Once energized, the
relay conducts power to the fuel pump. This arrangement allows the computer to control the pump which is
too heavy to control directly.

A typical automotive relay has four or five terminals. These terminals often have numbers, as shown above.
This circuit can be tested with an ohmmeter. Conductivity is indicated by a reading of near zero resistance.
An open circuit would show OL or open-lead, which means infinite resistance.
The terminals numbered 85 and 86 power a magnet that closes the relay. Terminal 30 is the controlledcircuit input. Number 87 and 87a are the switched connections. On the five-terminal relay, 30 and 87a are
connected, when no current is applied. This provides a closed switch until power is applied.

When terminals 85 and 86 are energized, 30 and 87a are disconnected, and 87 is turned on. On a fourterminal relay, 87a is omitted, and 30 and 87 act as a single switch. These relays can be tested by checking
continuity between 30 and 87a. Next power and ground are applied to 85 and 86 while checking number 30
for continuity to 87.
With fuel pumps, testing can be a bit tricky. The computer will
at most power the relay for a few seconds when the key is
switched on. Continuous current is applied after the engine
starts.

In the fuel pump diagram, current at terminal 87, when the switch is turned on, indicates a good relay and
fuses. No power at 87 would require checking for power at 30. If there is no current flow at 30, the fuse
would be checked. If there is power at connection 30, power and ground would be checked at terminals 85
and 86.
The relay is used to control a great many things on automobiles. Power windows, headlight circuits and
windshield wipers are a few. All relays will have a controlled circuit and a low-amperage on-off circuit that
energizes the magnetic coil. On vehicles that use several of the same relay, on different circuits, switching
one for another is a quick way to verify a problem.
The fuse and the relay account for a large percentage of the problems the average enthusiast will
encounter. Learning how to check these devices makes diagnosis far easier.

How To Test Your Main Relay

Testing the Main Relay in Honda Cars

Refer to this chart detailing the terminals of a Honda main relay.

NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the main relay is okay.
Before you start replacing this or that, if you suspect you have a bad main relay in your Honda, you should perform this
test to be sure. Most parts suppliers don't take returns on electrical components, so buying a part you don't need will
really hit you in wallet with this one. If your Honda is suffering from hot start problems, this diagnostic test might be
helpful, too. The steps below make references to the illustration below, so you might even want to print it out for help
while you're working. Here's the test:
1. Remove the main relay.
2. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 4 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal
of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal
of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the main
relay.
If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal of
the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main
relay.
If there is continuity, the relay is OK; If the fuel pump still does not work, keep testing down the wiring harness
toward the fuel pump.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.

HOW TO TEST RELAYS (How to repair Relays)

WHAT IS A RELAY

A basic automotive relay is a switch operated by an

electromagnet, this is controlled by either a small switch (headlight switch etc.) or a control
module/ECU (fuel pump etc.) .This takes the load off the switch etc. and only small wires
are required behind the dashboard. If you look at the diagram you will see that the relay
connects pin 30 and 87 together. So for a quick test, just bridge them together with a fused
wire see picture. If you want to test further connect a meter between 85 and 86 you should
see battery voltage when you operate that circuit (note fuel pump relays only work for a few
seconds to prime or when cranking).
TESTING VEHICLE RELAYS

HOW TO REPAIR RELAYS

CLICK HERE FOR HOW TO REPAIR RELAYS

RELAY PIN TERMINAL NUMBERING

Many automotive relays now have continental markings and diagram on side to help with
pin identification.
1 = 15 or 86 CLICK FOR FULL LIST
2 = 85
3 = 30
4 = 87A
5 = 87
To bridge this relay you would connect 3 and 5
MORE RELAY TYPES

Whats a Relay?

A relay is just a small switch whose movement is caused by the action of an electromagnet inside. When power
is applied to the relays coil, the electromagnet comes alive and pulls across the switching contacts.
Relay Types

Single Pole, Single Throw

The simplest relay is a single pole, single throw (SPST) design. This designation refers to the switching part of
the relay where when it's activated, one wire (a "single pole") can be connected only one way (a "single throw").
Just like an on/off switch, when you power up the relay's coil, the connection is made; when you unpower the
coil, the connection is broken.

In this diagram the relay's coil is yellow. Near to the coil you can see a switch, which is open. This is called a
Normally Open contact - it's open when there's no power being applied to the relay. When power is applied to the
relays coil, the single contact closes. This is a Single Pole Single Throw relay - SPST. SPST relays have four
terminals - two are to power the coil and the other two are the connections for the internal switch. As you can
see, there is no electrical connection between the pair of contacts for the coil and the pair of contacts for the
switching side of the relay.

On automotive SPST relays, the pins are given standardised numbers. The coil connections are 85 and 86, while
the two connections for the internal switch are 30 and 87. However, most general purpose relays dont have any
numbers on the pins instead the functions of the pins are shown on a little diagram on the body of the relay.
The most common use for a SPST relay is to use a small electrical current to control a large electrical current.
For example, a radiator fan might be triggered by a temperature switch. The temp switch is capable of flowing
only 2 amps, but the radiator fan at switch-on takes 15 amps (and then settles back to 8 amps continuous).

If you wire the radiator fan to the switch like this, after a few weeks the switch would fail its contacts are being
hugely overloaded.

The solution is to add a SPST relay that is wired into the circuit like this. Neither the relay coil nor the switching
part of the relay have polarities both can be connected either way around to 12V and Ground. As we said
earlier, a relay is very hard to blow-up!

Single Pole, Double Throw

But wouldn't it be good if we had a contact that was broken at the same time as the switch was made? That's
what happens in the Single Pole, Double Throw design. Another contact has been added that is Normally Closed.
When the relay is energised, this contact is broken and the other one (the Normally Open contact) is closed. We
still have only a single pole to be switched, but now it can be connected two ways - a double throw design. This
type of relay is therefore called a Single Pole, Double Throw relay. As you can see, it has both Normally Open
(NO) and Normally Closed (NC) contacts. Some people call this a changeover relay.

A SPDT relay allows you to control two devices, switching one off as the other is switched on. A recent example
of where I needed to use a relay in this way is in a fuel system that needed to be switched between two different
fuel pressures. To raise the fuel pressure, a solenoid valve had to be turned off and at the same time, a fuel pump
needed to be switched on. Both devices draw a fair amount of current so a heavy duty automotive relay was used.
SPDT automotive relays use the following codes for their pins: the coil connections are again 85 and 86, the
normally closed output is 87a, the normally open output is 87 and the input is 30.

The circuit diagram for the fuel system relay looks like this. Power is normally supplied to the solenoid through
the Normally Closed (NC) relay contact, energising the solenoid. But when the relays coil is activated (by

closing the High/Low Fuel Pressure switch), the relay pulls the contact across, switching off the solenoid and
switching on the fuel pump. The High/Low Fuel Pressure switch has to handle only enough current to switch the
relays coil, so this can be a light-duty switch (eg a boost pressure switch or a microswitch).

Double Pole, Double Throw

A Double Pole, Double Throw relay allows you to switch two different circuits simultaneously. The 'Double
Pole' bit just means that it has two separate inputs that can be switched - and we now know what the 'double
throw' stuff means. With this type of relay you can:
- turn on two completely independent circuits
- turn one off and one on
- turn off two completely independent circuits
These relays are less common in automotive aftermarket use and so dont have coded numbers for the pins.
So what use is a DPDT relay, then? Again, Ill use an example from a recent car modification I have been
working on. What was needed was the on-demand disconnection of two oxygen sensor input signals to the ECU.
The two signal wires from the oxy sensors to the ECU needed to be kept completely separate, so they couldnt be
joined together and a SPST relay used. Instead a DPDT relay was used. (It didnt actually have to be a double
throw design, but DPDT relays are more common than SPDT designs.)
Using a Relay

Using a relay is made a lot simpler if you follow these steps.

Draw a circuit diagram. The first step is to draw a simple circuit diagram showing where the
wires go. Which wires go to the relay coil, which to the Normally Open and Normally Closed
contacts of the relay?
Decide what type of relay is needed. If just one connection needs to be switched on and off,
youll use a SPST design. If two connections need to be switched, a DPST or (more commonly) a
DPDT design will be the one to use. A changeover (where one device is switched off and the
other switched on) can use a SPDT or a DPDT design.
Work out the functions of each pin. If its a standard automotive relay, read the numbers. If its
a general purpose relay, look for the diagram on the relay body. If neither of these apply, by
careful use of a short-circuit protected power supply and a multimeter, you can work out the
functions of each pin. (Unless you use too high a test voltage, you cant damage the relay!)
Wire the relay coil first. If you wire the relays coil first, youll be able to check that the relay is
working by listening to its click.

How Complex?

Its easy to think of relays as being suitable for just simple car modifications, but thats not
always the case.
This circuit shows the use of two relays that deactivate traction control without affecting
ABS or stability control. The system works by connecting the un-driven wheel ABS sensor
outputs to the driven wheel ECU inputs, so that the ECU cannot see a speed difference
between the undriven and driven wheels. The modification is automatically switched off
whenever the brakes are applied, or by a manual on/off switch. This diagram shows only
half of the system - the complete the system just mirror-images the wiring for the other side
of the car.
The total cost of the modification was well under AUD$30 relays are cheap! For more on
this approach, see Modifying Electronic Car Handling Systems, Part 3
Relay Specifications

In addition to its contact configuration (SPST, DPDT, etc) there are at least three other specifications that are
important.

Coil voltage

This refers to the voltage which the relay is designed to have its coil triggered by. A nominally 12V relay is fine
on car voltages, even though they can extend as high as 13.8V. However, you shouldnt use a 5V coil relay on a
12V system. (But note that a 24V relay, if its a sensitive design, will often work fine on 12V!)

Coil current

This is the amount of current the relay coil will draw when energised. This can be expressed directly in
milliamps, or indirectly as a coil resistance. A very sensitive relay might have a coil resistance of 360 ohms. 13.8
volts divided by 360 ohms gives a coil current of 0.038 amps, or 38 milliamps. In other words, the switch that
youre using to operate the relay has to handle just 38 milliamps. But this is a very low value of required current.
A typical automotive relay is more likely to have a coil resistance of 80 ohms, giving a coil current flow of 170
milliamps. (13.8/80 = 0.17 amps)

Maximum Contact Current

This spec refers to the max current that a relays contacts can handle. To avoid arcing, you should use a factor of
safety where the max current of your switched circuit (even when it first switches on with a current gulp) is less
than the relays spec. Automotive relays are available with current ratings like 25, 30 and even 60 amps. Be
careful when checking max current specs that the listing is for the DC at or above the voltage youll be using
ie, in cars, 13.8V. For example, a relay rated at 10 amps at 240V AC is not the same as one rated at 10 amps at
12V DC.
Other specs that you might fine listed include life (ie how many millions of operations the relay will do before
failure) and perhaps response time.

Conclusion

Relays can be useful in nearly every electrical or electronic car modification. Get your head around their use and
youll never regret having spent the time to find out how they can be used.

Automotive Wiring Tips - Using Relays

Things To Consider When Wiring Accessories...

When wiring anything in your vehicle that draws heavy current such as high powered offroad
lights or audio amplifiers, there are a few things to consider. Number one, make sure you use
wire that is rated for the amperage that the accessories is going to pull. It is always better to
have wire that is OVER rated rather than wire that is not rated high enough. If wire is used
that is not rated to handle the current that your accessory will pull, the result could be
overheated wires that could melt the insulation or the electrical plugs found throughout your
vehicle (see image below), causing a short or worse yet it could result in a fire. If you know
how much current your accessory will draw you can determine what gauge wire is
appropriate for your application.
Personally I like to use wire that far exceeds the current draw of my accessory. It's overkill but in a few applications
I've used heavy gauge stranded industrial wire with water and chemical resistant insulation. That way there is no
question as to whether the wire is rated high enough or not. If this approach is taken, it is very wise to place a fuse
at the battery end as close to the battery as possible. Most wire in a vehicle, if shorted out, will burn up before the
battery overheats and possibly explodes. If wire that is over-rated for vehicle use is used and a short occurs, a
short will most likely result in damage to the vehicle of some sort unless a fuse is put in line as close to the battery as possible. With the
fuse there, in the case of a dead short, the fuse will burn out first before any damage could occur.

Where to Get your Power

The second important thing to consider when adding accessories is to
determine where you will get your power. Many people will consider
tapping into the hot wire of an existing circuit using something called a Ttap or quick slide connector, which are designed specifically for tapping
into an existing wire. This is not always a good idea for several reasons.
First and foremost, tapping into an existing circuit puts additional load on
that circuit. The additional load placed on a circuit or wire may exceed
the limits of those wires, connectors and fuse. Overloading a circuit will
do one of two things. First, it may blow a fuse. So people will sometimes
place a larger fuse in the fuse block to handle the extra load on that
circuit. BAD IDEA! The fuse may hold but the resulting extra current may
be more that the wire is rated for creating heat that can melt wires and
connectors and start fires! The connector to the right was overloaded
and fused two adjacent terminals together, causing a short the blew the
vehicles main fuse. Before the fuse blew the connector actually started
to burn. The wire that carried the extra load also had melted its
insulation and in places was exposed. Luckily for the owner of this
vehicle, it did not result in a fire but in many cases it does.

Above, a melted electrical connector

that had been overloaded.

A better idea....

T-Tap
connector

With accessories that pull a lot of power it is always better to get your
power directly from the batteries positive terminal rather than tapping into the existing fuse block or
wiring harness. In most cases the vehicles existing fuse blocks, wires and connectors are not rated to
handle the additional load of high powered accessories such as offroad lights and amplifiers. If you are
the kind of person that likes to add all kind of goodies to your vehicle it might be worth installing an
additional fuse block that handles non-critical items like offroad lights, CB radios, power inverters, audio
equipment, etc. This additional block can then be powered by a heavy duty wire capable of carrying the
current required of all the accessories on the block. Be sure to fuse the block at the battery.
Another important thing to consider is how you control the switching on/off of the power to your
accessories. In almost every case where high current is required, the switch you will use to turn on
the power should not handle the load because most switches are not designed to handle higher
amps. The job of switching the power is better left to a relay. What is a relay? A relay is a device
that, through a magnetic induction coil, turns on the power for you. The switch that is installed in the
cab of your 4x4 actually only powers the relay itself which draws very little current. In most
installations a 30 AMP relay from Radio Shack (Auto Relay Cat. Number 275-226) will do unless
your amperage demands exceed 30 amps. I like to used a lighted switch in the cab to let me know if
driving lights are on.

Offroad Lights or Accessory Wiring Diagram using a 4 - Pole Relay Relay

Click to Enlarge
The method I use for wiring the lights and other external accessories, for the most part, follows the
diagram pictured above. As in the diagram a wire is run from a 12 volt power source to the switch in
the cab and out to the relay placing a fuse at the source of the power. (Follow the relay's wiring
schematic when connecting the wires to the relay) One of the relays terminals goes to ground. Then
run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the relay placing a 30 Amp fuse in line very close to the
battery. Do not connect the power to the battery until all wiring is done. Then I run a single heavy
gauge wire out to the lights or other accessory. If installing lights, split it into two leads at the lights. If
you do this be sure the wire is rated to handle BOTH lights since it will carry the current of both. The
diagram shows two leads coming from the relay. Then I run the second wire of the lights or other
accessory to a good ground on the frame of the vehicle. If the wires will not be soldered together and
crimped connectors will be used it's a good idea to put a dielectric paste on the connectors where they come in contact. This will prevent
corrosion as time passes ensuring a good connection. Then double-checked all wiring before plugging in the power.

How to solder and fix the Main Relay.

*
Introduction: The Honda or
Acura turns over but won't
start in hot weather is a
symptom of a main relay
going bad. This is the result
of
the
poor
solder
application from the factory.
As a consequence, raise
areas on the joint indicate a
"dry joint" which can lead to
an open circuit. The dry,
open circuit is the main cause of no start. This is partly caused by the buildup of heat on the
terminals which expand, contract and subject to vibrations. It is likely that a layer of hard oxide has
built up inside the solder joint. The layer of hard oxide has to be removed by desoldering. Other
than this, there are no known mechanical problem with the main relay.
Quick Guide

Step A)

Step B)

Look for the symptoms by using your sense of sight and sound. This can be confirmed by
following the main relay basic troubleshooting below, usually performed when the car won't start.
Once confirmed that the main relay is dead, or if your car is over 8 years old, remove the main
relay and desolder the weak joints and apply a fresh rosin core solder. The instruction on how to

do this can be found below. Or if you like other options see solutions.html

Step C)

Finally, install the main relay and test drive the car. The car should restart and idle on even the
hottest day.

For this repair project you will need a main relay and a set of proper tools:
Where can I find the MainRelay?

Honda/Acura

Acura

Honda/Acura

a 15-30 watt soldering iron (or

600F - 700F) *

a Rosin core solder (Rosin is

less corrosive) and

a solder wick (copper braid)

(wicks/braids are bit tedious
and usually wasteful on large
jobs, but the wick is a good
choice for this project.) or
a Desoldering pump (usually
requires many attempts) or

a Desoldering iron (simple to

use, How to use, see step 1.)

Start by carefully prying the main relay:

Clip----->

Stick a flat small flat screw driver in the crack.

Separation Steps:

What to look for:

Fig. 12

1. Stick a small flat head screw driver in between the wall flap (a clip) and the relay base.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Do not go in too deep. Pry it open just slightly.

While holding it still, use the same screw driver, pry the other side.
While holding this side still (and cleared of the locking edge) pull the relay straight out, or forward.
Installation is reverse of the procedure (Note: The main relay will only go in one way into the housing.)

Note: Do not stick the screw driver too deep inside. You may damage the relay's mechanical or electrical parts.

Fig. 4
The image above shows one good and several bad examples. More soldering examples (external link.)
Examples:

The amount of solder (before) is too little. The joint (before) is a cold solder joint.
CAUTION:

Try not to heat the joint too long with a 40 Watt or above soldering gun, because the
copper traces on the circuit board may lift.

Health warning:

Do not over expose your lungs or eyes to the fumes. Wash hands with soap and
water after handling the PCB's and leads.

Desolder the inadequate terminal (1) and the faulty terminal (2). (same as fig. 12 above.)

Desolder using a pump

Desoldering using a desoldering iron.

Desolder using a wick

1.) Press and hold the air vacuum bulb. Apply the desoldering iron tip so that the terminal penetrates within its orifice.
2.) When the solder liquefies, start gently to rotate the desoldering tip so that the components terminal can be eased away from the
sides.
3.) Release the air vacuum bulb just long enough to suck the solder.
Note: If any solder remains are left on any terminal after attempting to desolder it, resolder it with fresh solder and repeat the
desoldering process.
A clean removal should look like this:

NOTICE:

Parts could fall into the main relay if more than two terminal are desoldered at once. Always desolder one
terminal then go to step two below.
The large terminals may require a 40 watt or higher soldering iron. The large terminals rarely fail and could be
skipped.

Heat the terminal and the copper trace with the iron tip while applying the rosin core solder to the terminal.

If you do have a joint which looks in need of rework don't be tempted to just reapply the iron. This is unlikely to succeed as the solder
in place will have no flux in it, so the flow across the joint will be worse than when it was first made. Better to remove the solder,
using a desoldering pump or copper braid, and make the joint again. The flux's job is to strip away all of the grease from the surfaces

to be soldered, thus ensuring that the solder will flow properly. A concave should be formed with an angle of 40 and 70 from the
horizontal.
Click here if you still have trouble creating a perfect joint.
A good solder job should look like this:

(Optional) Clean with steel wool, inspect for imperfections then use a conformal coating material. Conformal coating
enhances performance, improves electrical stability as well as accidental shorts and thermal shock. Their ingredients include varnish,
epoxy, parylene, polyurethane, silicone, acrylics, or lacquer. Coatings are applied in a liquid form; when dry, they exhibit
characteristics that improve reliability. These characteristics are:

Heat conductivity to carry heat away from components

Hardness and strength to support and protect components
Electrical insulation to preventing accidental shorts
Low moisture absorption
Prevents oxidation * tip: If your Honda digital clock currently works, now is a good time to protect it with conformal coating.
To remove the conformal coatings simply use acetone.

Install onto the vehicle in a lower, practical location*, easily accessible in the future. Your work is done.

See all locations >>

Further explanations:

What causes the main relay to fail?

Short answer: The term 'cold solder joint' best decribes it. This develop over time with thermal cycling on parts that are not properly
fastened and are essentially being held in by the solder alone. They may flex the connection due to vibration or thermal expansion
and contraction. More info at FAQs page.
What is the solution to this problem?
The dry solder joints could have been easily eliminated if the solder quality is consistent and a concave should be formed with an
angle of 40 and 70 from the horizontal. Four terminals and maybe more on the main relay are known to show signs of a cold solder
joint.
Should I remove the old solder?
Yes. The old solder is of poor quality and damaged. Black areas on the joint indicate a "dry" joint. This is caused by dirt in the joint
area and will result in an unacceptably high resistance. A soldered joint which is improperly made will be electrically noisy, unreliable
and is likely to get worse in time. It could work initially and then cause the main relay to fail at a later date.
If it seems to take an unusually long time for the solder to spread, this is another sign of possible dirt and that the joint may
potentially lead to a failure, usually in the form of stalling in traffic and won't start. It is hard to judge the quality of a solder based
on the appearance of the joint because you cannot see how the joint had formed inside. So it is really a small price to pay to do it
right the first time.
What happens if I just reheat or add additional solder to the joints?
The joint area will result in an unacceptably high resistance. Your symptom may return much earlier than a brand new main relay.
The car may stall in traffic and won't start. See our observations.

My Honda does not like to start sometimes when it is hot out if I don't let the fuel pump prime and then try to start it? Can this be
a main relay problem?
Yes. But this can also be a sign of loss in fuel pressure overnight. Usually, the bad solder joint will make the main relay "lazy" and
won't start until after a second or so. There are two ways to distinguish these signs. The "check engine light" that goes off the
moment the car starts and the when the key is turn to ON, the fuel pump doesn't whirl right away is a sign of a bad relay. If the car
starts only when the ignition switch is first cycled on and off several times then the fuel pressure may have been lost. This is most
often due to a bad fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, the fuel injector o-rings or the fuel injectors.

My check engine light is on (code 16) and it won't start. Is this caused by the main relay?
Yes. If the ECU doesn't receive the power from the main relay, a diagnostic code
(fuel injectors) will show up on the diagnostic
indicator after retrieving the code. This is followed by the typical "no power to the fuel pump." A no start with a steady on "check
engine" light could also mean a bad ECU power supply.

When I turn on the car the main relay starts clicking. I changed it out and still the same thing. What is causing it?
The main is getting low current. The result is a fast clicking relay. The current comes from the battery. The ECU then outputs the
current on pin A7 on the ECU. The fix is to make sure the car battery is strong, connections tight and fully charged. Then make sure
that the check engine light is not on and the ECU is properly grounded.

My 90-94 Accord doesn't shifts properly and the "S" (D4) light is blinking, can this caused by the main relay?
Yes. This can happen when the ignition is ON and the ECU/TCU power supply from the main relay drops out momentarily. The
dropout in power can be preceded by a sounds like relay(s) clattering in the dash for a few seconds. The clattering sound may also be
the sound of transmission interlock system misbehaving, which may indicate a bad TCU. Or the clattering is the main relay itself,
which can cause the TCU to go into a limp mode to protect itself. This could cause the transmission to stay in the wrong gears or
won't shift at all. Read more about this under transmission.html#mainrelay.
What can make the main relay hot.

When a fuel pump demands more current, heat would be generated as a result of increase resistance in the fuel relay contact points.
In this case the relays will act as heat sink. This is a sign that the contact is worn. The picture above explains why. When a relay
contact becomes corrupt, caused by arcing or other means electrons will converge in poorly conductible space, creating a high
resistance and heating up the relay. The relay wounded coil can also generate heat. Replace the relay if you suspect that the main
relay is running too hot. Since heat poses a risk of another solder joint failure.
Sometimes a fuel pump may run endlessly because the relay contacts have welded together. Another term for this is resistance
welding.
Tip: A brand new main relay will most likely use the same poor quality solder/application. It's recommended that you observe the
solder application quality before installing the main relay. A brand new main relay will have a practical lifespan of 8-10 years, unless
they have been updated.

Overview Solution FAQs Find it Technical Details Troubleshoot Relay Resolder

TROUBLESHOOTING THE MAIN RELAY

You may read the FAQ for more basic troubleshooting, otherwise just follow this troubleshooting flow chart before performing the
main relay bench test.
The main relay typically fails in three ways.

1. One is when there is only 1 click after turning the key and the fuel pump won't run.
2. The second is when the check engine light is steady on (no clicks) and the fuel pump won't
run.
3. The third, most uncommon, is when the check engine light goes on and off normally (click
on and click off normally) and the fuel pump won't run. This symptom needs to be tested in
order to rule out the possibility of a dead fuel pump or a bad power supply that is too low
to run the fuel pump.
Basically, if the fuel pump is running the main relay i s fine.

If there are no clicks but the harness connector power supply is good, (how to test below)
then the main relay is most often bad.
The troubleshooting flowchart (which uses your senses) below is an accurate diag nose if
your symptoms follow the flow of the chart.

Car Won't Start

Main relay
troubleshooting for most
Honda/Acura PGM-FI
relay and harness

Turn the ignition

switch to ON.

Does the check

engine light go on
then off?

The ignition switch,

ECU , fuses 1 2 -G- or
main relay faulty.
See problem solution
below.

Is there a relay
click when the
check engine light
goes off?

Does the fuel pump

whirl for 2 seconds
when the check
engine light is on?

Main relay is dead.

Fuel pump may be

dead. Check the fuel
pump.

Main relay is OK.

See ignition.html
for help.

Problem: Won't start, the relay won't click and no fuel pump sound.
Solution: Follow the steps below to check the power supply.

1. Disconnect the main relay from the connector. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2.
Connect your red probe to terminal 1. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the ECU fuse.

2. Turn the ignition switch to ON. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red
probe to terminal 5. There should be battery voltage. If not then check the fuse or the ignition switch.
3. Connect your black probe of your multimeter to terminal 2. Connect your red probe to terminal 1. There should
be battery voltage. If not then check the ignition switch or the fuse(s.) Turn the ignition switch off.

If all checks fail then go back to step 1. But instead of using terminal 2, use body ground. If all checks pass then

the ground is faulty.

If all checks pass then the main relay, ECU or fuel pump may be faulty. Continue with main relay bench test.

Note: With the relay connected and the key turn on, the check engine light must go on then off after two seconds in order for the fuel
pump to run for the initial 2 seconds after the key is turned on. Another words; no ECU, no fuel pump priming.
If everything works and you still don't hear the second click from the new main relay then the ECU or the connections may be broken.
Main Relay bench test:
Introduction: Basically, the most common main relay circuit comes in two flavors. Notice the differences between the two identical
looking relay side by side below. Now notice that only terminal 4 and 6 are swapped. This means that the troubleshooting procedure
below should work for both types of main relay.
The main relay usually fails intermittently. That means that by the time you have it ready on the bench, the problem have probably
disappeared. You have three choices when the car won't start:

You can run the bench test quickly or

Ignore the bench test completely and rely on the first set of troubleshooting flow chart above and have your main
relay taken apart and compare it to this image [mainrelaydryjoint.html] to find the culprit bad joint.

Main relay bypass: Bypassing the main relay to get the car running. A few have asked how to bypass the main relay. Simply remove
the main relay from the harness connector and short the three terminals on the wire harness connector together and turn the
ignition switch to start. Here are the terminals.
First
generation
relay:
Battery(1)
fuel
Second
generation
relay:
Battery(7)
fuel
Acura Legend and TL: Battery(1) fuel pump(7) and ECU/injectors (3).

pump(7)
pump(4)

and
and

ECU/injectors
ECU/injectors

(3).
(6).

WARNING: Do not short the battery power (+) to terminal 8 (or terminal 1 for the 95-97 Civic) on the wire harness connector or
there may be an internal ECU damage.
The following test is for most Accords, mainly for the Accord 88-94 and for the Acura or for most generic main relays.
Step 1: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.4 terminal (for the Accord) or No.6 (for the Acura) and the battery negative to
the No.8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No.5 terminal and No.7 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, go to step 2.

If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.

Step 2: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.5 terminal and the battery negative to the No.2 terminal of the main relay.
Then check for continuity between the No.1 terminal and No.3 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, go to step 3.

If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.

Step 3: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.3 terminal and the battery negative to the No.8 terminal of the main relay.
Then check for continuity between the No.5 terminal and No.7 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, the relay is OK. If the fuel pump still does not work, check the harness and/or fuel pump.
If there is no continuity, resolder the relay terminal and retest.

For the Civic 95-97.

Step 1: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.2 and the battery negative to the No.1 terminal of the main relay. Then check
for continuity between the No.5 terminal and No.4 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, go to step 2.

If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.

Step 2: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.5 terminal and the battery negative to the No.3 terminal of the main relay.
Then check for continuity between the No.7 terminal and No.6 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, go to step 3.

If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.

Step 3: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.6 terminal and the battery negative to the No.1 terminal of the main relay.
Then check for continuity between the No.5 terminal and No.4 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, the relay is OK. If the fuel pump still does not work, check the harness and/or fuel pump.
If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.

Note: This relay is the same version as the Acura, but differs only by the printing. This would mean that these species of relay are
manufactured in two formats.
Main Relay in Circuit Test

Main Relay Terminals: For most Accords: While still connected to the vehicle check that:

1. Yel/blue should have +12 volts battery, always.

2.
3.
4.
5.

Blk should be grounded always. Connect your negative voltmeter or DMM lead here.
Blk/yel should have +12 volts with ignition ON.
Not used.
Yel/blk should be +12 volts with ignition ON.

6. Blu/Red (auto only) Blk/grn (manual only) should be +12 volts at START.
7. Yellow should have +12 volts temporary with ignition ON, if idling or start Yellow should have +12 volts.
8. Grn/blk should ground temporary with ignition ON or idling, if idling or start Grn/blk should ground.
If all readings are okay except on either terminal 3) ECU-Injector or terminal 7) Pump then the relay is dead and should
be should be soldered.

Main Relay Acura Legend, TL, and RL Bench Test.

Step 1: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.4 terminal and the battery negative to the No.8 terminal of the main relay.
Then check for continuity between the No.5 terminal and No.7 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, go to step 2.

If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.

Step 2: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.6 terminal and the battery negative to the No.2 terminal of the main relay.
Then check for continuity between the No.1 terminal and No.3 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, go to step 3.

If there is no continuity, solder the relay terminal and retest.

Step 3: Attach the battery positive terminal to the No.3 terminal and the battery negative to the No.8 terminal of the main relay.

Then check for continuity between the No.5 terminal and No.7 terminal of the main relay.

If there is continuity, the relay is OK. If the fuel pump still does not work, check the harness and/or fuel pump.
If there is no continuity, re-solder the relay terminal and retest.

Factory unabridged Legend first generation main relay and fuel pump test and how to install fuel pump.
Factory unabridged 95-97 Civic main relay test

cache

The Main Relay will click three times during the starting process. When problems arise, one of those
clicks (usually the third) is missing, making those clicks a handy diagnostics tool. If you consistently
hear/feel all three clicks, the Relay is fine. DO NOT REPLACE IT.

Turn ignition to ON (but not to START): Click 1

Check Engine light goes off: Click 2
You now turn the key to START: Click 3

Waaay up under the dash on the driver's side, up behind the dash in a diabolically difficult place to get at lurks a
critical device known as a PGM-FI Main Relay, or EFI Main Relay. Honda usually places the Main Relay very
close to the ignition switch, for obvious reasons, and they all look the same (albeit with slightly different colors
and part numbers), so these photos should help you locate yours.
The photo sequence below shows the PGM-FI Main Relay location for the '90-'93 Integra, one of the easier
vehicles to deal with for this item. Many other Hondas very frustratingly have their Main Relay in basically the
same location, but above the hood latch, which seems innocuous enough, but creates huge headaches (see
more photos below).

In all cases, you need to remove a large piece of plastic trim called the Knee Bolster. This trim covers
all the wiring and structural members that festoon the area immediately under the steering column.

1) View of under-dash of '90-'93

Integra. The knee bolster is the
filler panel under the steering
wheel. The coin box is in it.

2) Pop coin box loose on one side with a screwdriver to push the pin out
of its recess. Careful not to mark up the dash or break something. It
doesn't take much effort to release the pin.

3) Remove remaining screws and

pull rearwards to carefully pop tabs
loose on top. Knee bolster is now
free.

4) It's under there! It's always

close to the ignition switch.

6) Another view. Camera was held

near floor and pointed upwards.

Two quite awful locations chosen by Honda

'88-'91 Civic/CRX.
THIS is the "diabolically difficult place" the text
above refers to.

5) There are two relays in this

particular location. It's the larger
one behind the small one.

Here, you are the center console (you always

wanted to be one, didn't you?), and are looking
towards the left (driver's) side of the car.
In this car, you have a choice:
1) You can pop the guts out of the casing (see
below), leaving the casing in place, or
2) You can remove it by undoing the fixing bolt
(see below).
Neither method is fun, and either will take you
about a half-hour of fiddling back-and-forth.
'92-'03 Civic/CRX.
It's a bit better than the '88-'91 Civic, but not as good as the
'90-'93 Integra. Yours may be here if it's not in the Integra's
location. The knee bolster has been removed here as well.
Notice this particular Relay housing is grey instead of black,
and the bracket is pointing upwards.
In these two pictures, you'll notice the plastic trim that's in
front of the bolt that holds the Main Relay on. It's this trim that
makes the Relay so hard to get off the car, since it prevents
the application of a socket to the Relay's bolt.
It appears to me that you could easily unbolt this Relay by
heating up a very small wrench with a torch, and bending it
right behind the head..

Tips for the '88-'91 Civic:

Removing guts from the casing
If you are unable to remove or flex the trim in order to get at the bolt, you can simply remove the guts of the
Relay from its casing. Get a very small flat-blade screwdriver, and pull the locking lugs outward (the lugs are on
the short sides of the Relay).
Start with one side. Push the screwdriver gently between the Relay housing and its bottom plate, and pry
outwards until that side releases. Tilt the bottom plate on an angle to keep the lock from re-engaging, then do
the other side. After the guts have been removed, you may unplug the electrical connector.
This approach may be more trouble than it's worth though, so you might just want to try unbolting it anyway.
Read on...

Unbolting the entire Main Relay

In this pic, you're lying down on the floor of your car,

looking skyward. The mounting bolt is directly vertical
above the outboard edge of the hood release in the pic.
The Relay's mount bracket points downwards, so the
bolt is lower than the Relay.
From jim beam:
"It's one of those guys you unscrew half a flat at a time,
then flip the wrench over - you know the type? it helps
to get the hood release out of the way too. Then the
next most fun thing is unplugging the wiring. It's held by
cable tie to the body, about 1" from the plug, so you
have no room to maneuver. But there's room to pop
the mounting for that tie-mount with a screwdriver or
pair of needle-nosed pliers. Once the Relay's free to
move, then puzzling it out is merely an exercise in
patience. Even if you know where the wretched thing is
& what you're doing, it's still a half-hour job!!!"

What the Main Relay looks like up close:

Some of the casings seem to be grey and some black. Sometimes the bracket points up and
sometimes down. Incidentally, the bracket can be easily pushed off and remounted the other way if
you need to do that.

How to Test an Automotive Relay

X
By Richard Asmus, eHow Contributor, last updated March 22, 2013

Print this article

How to Test an Automotive Relay

Automotive relays are used to control any accessory that draws more than 30 amps of current, including
power windows, lights, fog lights, air conditioner, fog horns, heated windows and many other
accessories. When an accessory doesn't work, perhaps the relay failed. The easiest way to test it is to
replace it with a known good one. If you don't have a spare or don't want to buy one just to find out, you
can test it, but you will have to know how to use a multimeter. Have a question? Get an answer from a
Mechanic now!
Other People Are Reading

How to Test a Car Relay

How to Test a Four Terminal Relay

Things You'll Need

Electronic test leads with alligator clips on each end.

Car battery (can be the one in your car)
Multimeter

Show More

Instructions
1. Test the Relay
o

1
Remove the relay from its socket.

2
Connect one end of one of the test lead to the positive terminal of the relay coil.

Sponsored Links

Diagram creator library

GWT / GXT library for creating diagrams in your application.

www.motigon.com
o

3
Connect the one end of the other test lead to the negative terminal of the relay coil.

4
Connect the positive lead to the positive terminal of your car battery.

5
Connect the negative lead to the negative terminal of your car battery. You should hear a click
as the relay energizes. If it does not click, the coil is bad and the relay needs to be replaced. If it
does click, proceed to step 6.

6
With your multimeter in the ohms position, connect the meter's test leads across the common
(C) terminal of the relay and the normally open (NO) terminal. You should read a direct short,
showing that the relay has closed and the contacts are connected. If you do not, the relay
contacts are bad.

How to Troubleshoot an Automotive Relay

Print this article

The use of relays in an automobile is to keep high amperage wires under the hood rather than in the cabin
of the vehicle. The reasoning is that high amperage wires used for the headlights, fans, air conditioning
and starter pose a risk of fire if they become shorted. It is safer to keep high amperage wires outside the
cabin where there is less flammable material, such as carpeting and upholstery. Low voltage amperage
wires from the cabin activates these relays. Have a question? Get an answer from a Mechanic now!
Other People Are Reading

How to Check if a Relay is Bad

How to Test a Car Relay

Things You'll Need

Volt/Ohmmeter
Short jumper wire with alligator clip ends

Show MoreInstructions
1.
o

1
Remove the suspect relay. There will be a minimum of four terminals on the relay. Two of the
terminals are dedicated to the object it operates. Direct battery power (B+) is constantly present
to one terminal. The second terminal is the power wire to the object being operated. The third
terminal is the switched power terminal. This terminal gets its power from a switch on the dash
or the ignition key. The fourth terminal is a ground. Some relays have more than four terminals,
which just means they have several switched terminals. These have multiple ways to activate
the relay. Use the voltmeter to check the socket vacated by the relay for one of the four
terminals to have power continuously.

2
Turn the ignition switch to the run position. If there is another switch (such as the light switch for
the lights) turn it on. Re-check the relay socket for a second terminal to have power. This is the
switched terminal.

Sponsored Links

Document Management
Share with your team or clients. Nothing to install. Try it Free!

www.smartsheet.com

3
Turn the voltmeter to ohms. Check the last two terminals for the one that is a ground. The
grounded terminal will show a number, which is ohms of resistance. If the ohmmeter shows a
one or does not react, there is no continuity and that particular terminal is not the ground. The
opposite terminal will be the lead to the object being operated.
o

4
Jump the terminal that showed continuous power to the terminal to the object being operated.
Install one end of the jumper into the continuous power terminal. Take the other end and briefly
touch the other terminal to make sure the object functions. If it does not work it should be
replaced.

5
Hold the relay in the same position as when it was removed and jump the switched power
terminal and the ground terminal. To do this, take one jumper wire from the battery positive to
the switched terminal on the relay. Hook the alligator clip to the ground terminal on the relay and
briefly touch a good ground. Every time it is grounded it should click as it is activated. It can also

be felt between the fingers when it activates. Connect the voltmeter between the other two
terminals and when the relay terminal is grounded, voltage should show on the voltmeter
indicating a closed circuit. When the ground is removed the voltage will be lost on the voltmeter.

This particular one is out of a Honda CRX but I don't know of any Hondas that don't use one of these
things. Inside its casing there are actually two relays mounted to a printed circuit board. Here's a
picture of the beast with its cover removed.

Since relay coils are relatively heavy, and the relay assembly is bolted solidly to the car, vibration
sometimes causes hairline cracks to form in the solder joints on that printed circuit board. This can
cause intermittent failures, which are especially likely to happen when the car has been parked in the
sun on hot days.
When you turn the engine over, there is enough pressure in the main fuel rail to supply the injectors,
so the engine starts, the ECU re-applies the ground to the second relay and the fuel pump runs
continuously from then on. So if your car won't start, listen for that fuel pump! If it doesn't run for two
seconds each time the key is turned from the off to the run position, you're not going anywhere, and it's
probably a sulking main relay that's the cause.
Another common problem also caused by the main relay is that the car starts fine, but stalls as soon as you
release the key. In this situation, it may take many attempts at starting before the car will continue to run with
the key released. Posts complaining of this seem to peak during warm-weather months.
How does the Main Relay work? Click here. (Has pictures too!)

How to fix? Well you can just replace the damn thing, or pay a mechanic to do it. Or if you know how to
pilot a soldering iron, you can touch up those soldered connections on the printed circuit board. It's not
hard to get the cover off, it's just held on by plastic tabs at the edges. The main difficulty is just getting
at the thing. For fault finding instructions here's a good site
And here's a site with more info on fixing it.
Another possible cause of the same symptoms can be lurking further up the same chain of
interconnections. The ground that the ECU supplies to the second relay isn't anywhere near the ECU.
It is in fact way up front on the engine! There are several wires originating from the ECU that are

grounded on the engine block (probably so there won't be problems with bad engine to bodywork
ground straps). On the CRX these wires are attached near the thermostat housing. Other models may
differ. If the connection of these wires to ground is loose or corroded, you can get symptoms similar to
a bad main relay.

How to Check a Standard Automotive Relay

X
By David Sandoval, eHow Contributor

Print this article

Typical automotive relay

Automotive relays are used to activate a high-current electrical circuit by using a low-current switch. If a
relay
is
improperly
installed,
the
relay
will
fail
to
function
correctly.

If a relay switch does not appear to work, check it using a 12-volt power source and a digital multimeter.
Have a question? Get an answer from a Mechanic now!
Other People Are Reading

How to Test a Car Relay

How Does a 12 Volt Relay Work?

Things You'll Need

Single-pole, single-throw automotive relay

12V DC power supply

Alligator-clip voltage test leads (2)

Digital multimeter with installed probe leadsShow (1) More

Instructions
1.
o

1
Attach one end of the first alligator clip lead to the relay terminal labeled 85. Attach the other
end of this alligator clip lead to the positive power supply terminal. Attach one end of the second
alligator clip lead to the negative power supply terminal.

2
Turn on the multimeter and set the measurement scale to Resistance or Ohms. Attach one
of the multimeter probes to the relay terminal labeled 30. Attach the other multimeter probe to
the relay terminal labeled 87. View the multimeter display. If the relay is working properly, the
multimeter will display an error message demonstrating that the resistance is beyond the
multimeters measurement capability (such as by displaying an infinity symbol).

o
o

3
Attach the free end of the second alligator clip lead to the relay terminal labeled 86. View the
multimeter display. If the relay is working properly, the display will show a resistance value
between zero and two ohms.