Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2, 291-302 DOI 10.

1007/s12221-010-0291-6

Assessing the Relationship among Fabric Constructional Parameters, Fractional

Reflectances and Cover Factors of Polyester Fabrics by Experimental and
Mathematical Methods
Mine Akgun, Behcet Becerir*, and Halil Rifat Alpay
Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering & Architecture, Uludag University,
Gorukle Campus, Bursa, Turkey
(Received July 20, 2009; Accepted November 17, 2009)

Abstract: This paper focuses on the assessment of the relation among constructional properties, fractional reflectances and
cover factors of fabrics woven from polyester yarns. A novel equation for the calculation of the relation between fractional
reflectance and fabric cover factor was proposed and the usage of the equation was assessed by reflectance measurements. 48
polyester fabrics having different constructional parameters were used and the fabrics differed from each other by their cover
factors. The warp yarn type and count, warp density and warp yarn twist were the same but weft yarn count, weft yarn fiber
count and weft density were different for the fabrics in the experimental sub-groups. The reflectance measurements were con-
ducted on the pretreated but undyed fabric samples as well as on the individual yarn systems of the same fabrics. Fabrics with
the same cover factors exhibited different fractional reflectances. Reflectances were found to be dependent on the cover fac-
tor as well as on yarn fiber fineness, yarn count, yarn density and fabric weave. The changes in crimp of the yarns according
to different construction parameters also governed the changes in fractional reflectances of fabric surfaces. The proposed
equation was tested according to different fabric construction parameters and it was concluded that fiber fineness and weave
pattern were among the most important parameters which govern the total light reflectances from the fabric surfaces,
although they are not incorporated in the calculation of the fabric cover factors. The proposed equation was used to explain
the effects of these components on the reflectance behavior of the fabric surfaces and on fabric cover.
Keywords: Fractional reflectance, Cover factor, Polyester fabric, Fabric cover, Weave pattern

Introduction research is going to be made upon light reflectances from

Fabrics which are composed of yarns are divided into two
main categories which are woven and knitted ones. Woven
fabrics are made of two sets of yarns, a lengthwise set called
the warp, and a crosswise set called the weft. Yarns are
usually consist of many different kinds of fibers, continuous
or staple, parallel or twisted, tightly or loosen. Woven fabrics
are classified as to weave or structure according to the
manner in which warp and weft cross each other. The three
fundamental weaves are plain, twill and satin. The light
reflection from cloth relies on that of yarns and the woven
structures [1].
The composition of light and its interaction with the
surfaces are still among the scientific research topics which
are studied the most but still remain partly unsolved. The
reflectance models of rough surface have been widely
researched [1-6]. The proposed models have assumed
fabric surfaces. These physical forms include the properties
of fibers, yarns and fabrics and they must usually be taken
into account in more than one dimension. A physical change
which seems relatively unimportant among the others may
affect the scientific results in a way that can not be predicted.
For that reason, the surface and reflectance properties of
woven fabrics comprise many parameters that have to be
controlled, and even independently sometimes.
In order to perform scientific researches on the properties
of interaction of surfaces with light, some parameters may
be needed to be incorporated in a single parameter. The
cover factor of the woven fabrics incorporates the yarn
densities and yarn counts to establish the covered area by the
yarns and it provides a valuable tool for considering the
relation between surfaces and light.
Fabric Cover

microscopic facets to be specular or Lambertian in reflection,
and most of them are based on geometrical optics. Studies
on physical optics are made and a general reflectance
framework is proposed [7]. A few researches are focused on
woven cloth simulations [8-11], and material and weaving
structure properties of cloth are considered.
There are many topics which are related with the physical
forms of the textile materials to be considered when a
*Corresponding author: becerir@uludag.edu.tr
The cover of a cloth may be judged by the appearance of
the cloth held up against the light, and it depends not only on
the number of threads per cm and their linear density, but
also on their regularity, hairiness, fiber composition, twist
and the cloth finishing processes [12,13-19,20]. The cover
factor indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is
covered by one set of threads [14]. The cover factor thus
indicates the degree of closing or cover, the proportion of the
area which is covered by the projection of the threads. It is
well known that ooziness of yarn, flattening in finishing and

291
292 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2
regularity improve the cover of cloth, so that the indication
given by the cover factor is not a sufficient measure of this
quality but it gives a very suitable basis of comparison for
any experiment at investigation, not only of cover but also of
hardness, crimp, permeability and transparency, limits of
picking, etc., in which fabrics of similar cover factors show
similarity [15].
The concept of similar cloths can be made from the same
fibers which still differ in five respects which are; the yarn
count, the ratio of the yarn counts in warp and weft, the ratio
of the yarn spacing, the average yarn spacing, or the weave
may differ. Such cloths, however, can be compared for one
simple property that is the proportion of the total area of the
yarn. It is possible, therefore, to consider cloths which differ
in many ways as being similar if they possess the same
fractional covering power [16].
For any fabric there are two cover factors: the warp cover
factor and the weft cover factor. The cloth cover factor is
obtained by adding the weft cover factor to the warp cover
factor. The cover factors can be adjusted to allow for yarns
of different relative densities-either because of the yarn
structure or because of the raw material used. The cover
factors in SI units are calculated by multiplying the threads
per centimeter by 3.3 and dividing by the square root of the
linear density of the yarn (in Nm count) (eq. (1)). The
resultant cover factor differs by less than 5 % from the
cotton cover factor pioneered by Peirce [15] which
expressed as the number of threads per inch divided by the
square root of the cotton yarn count.
K = 3,3 × n-
-------------- (1)
Nm
where;
K: cover factor,
n: yarn density (thread/cm),
Nm: yarn count in Nm (metric count; length in meters of
1 g of yarn).
For any given threads spacing, plain weave has the largest
number of intersections per unit area. All other weaves have
fewer intersections than the plain weave. The likely weavability
of all fabrics woven with the same weave and from similar
yarns can be forecast from their cover factors [14].
The cover factors allow a more simple, general and
consistent specification of a type of cloth, which may vary in
weight, than particular combinations of thread per inch and
counts, just as the twist factor distinguishes doubling weft,
twist, voile and crepe yarns for all counts [15].
When widely varying cover factors are used for warp and
weft, a high cover factor in one direction can generally be
compensated by a low cover factor in the other direction [14].
Proposal of the Relation between Fractional Reflectance
and Cover Factor
A novel approach to assess the relation between fractional
Mine Akgun et al.
reflectance and fabric cover factor was presented which the
formulation was based on equations (1) and (2);
The calculation of fabric cover given by Peirce [15,17] is
presented in equation (2).
Kwa × Kwe
Kf = Kwa + Kwe – ---------------------
- (2)
28
where “f” stands for the fabric, “wa” stands for the warp,
and “we” stands for the weft.
This paper proposes equation (3) for the assessment of the
relation between fractional reflectances and cover factors:
Kwa Kwe
Rf = Rwa × -------- + Rwe × -------
- (3)
Kf Kf
where;
Rf: reflectance of the fabric (in fractional form)
Rwa: reflectance of the warp yarns (in fractional form)
Rwe: reflectance of the weft yarns (in fractional form)
Kf: fabric cover factor
Kwa: warp cover factor
Kwe: weft cover factor
The fractional reflectance of the fabric surface is a
combination of the fractional reflectances of the warp and
weft yarns. But, as the two yarn systems have intersections
with each other in the formation of the fabric surface, the
calculation of fabric fractional reflectance must consider
their contribution to the surface reflectance by taking their
cover proportions in the total covered area. Equation (3) can
predict the fabric fractional reflection from the well
engineered composition of the separate warp and weft
yarns.
In this study, the relation among fabric constructional
properties, the fractional reflectances and the cover factors
of polyester fabrics having different construction parameters
were investigated. A mathematical approach was presented
and a novel relation between fabric cover and fractional
reflectances was proposed. The proposed equation was
tested by using the experimental data and the validity of the
new approach was discussed. It was found that the
reflectance of the fabrics depended on the construction
parameters and on the cover factors of the fabrics as well as
on the fiber fineness of the yarns and on fabric weave.
Polyester fabrics showed different light reflecting
characteristics although they had the same cover factors. The
proposed equation gave reasonable results with the
experimental data.
Materials and Methods
Fabrics composed of yarns having different yarn counts
and filament numbers were used in the experimental part.
Also different weave structures were considered to assess
the relation between fabric reflectance and fabric cover
factor through the properties of fibers, yarns and fabrics.
Assessing Fractional Reflectances of Polyester Fabrics Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2 293

Table 1.Constructional parameters of the fabrics

Fabric Fabric Warp count Warp density Weft count Weft density Kwa Kwe Kf
code weave [denier/filament] [thread/cm] [denier/filament] [thread/cm]
F1 Plain 70/36 60 100/36 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F2 Plain 70/36 60 100/48 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F3 Plain 70/36 60 100/144 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F4 1/2 Twill 70/36 60 100/36 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F5 1/2 Twill 70/36 60 100/48 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F6 1/2 Twill 70/36 60 100/144 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F7 1/5 Satin 70/36 60 100/36 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F8 1/5 Satin 70/36 60 100/48 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F9 1/5 Satin 70/36 60 100/144 15 17,46 5,22 19,42
18 17,46 6,26 19,82
20 17,46 6,96 20,08
F10 Plain 75/36 60 75/36 27 18,07 8,13 20,95
32 18,07 9,64 21,49
37 18,07 11,15 22,02
F11 1/3 Twill 75/36 60 75/36 27 18,07 8,13 20,95
32 18,07 9,64 21,49
37 18,07 11,15 22,02
F12 1/7 Satin 75/36 60 75/36 27 18,07 8,13 20,95
32 18,07 9,64 21,49
37 18,07 11,15 22,02
F13 Plain 150/36 35 70/72 18 14,91 5,24 17,36
22 14,91 6,40 17,90
26 14,91 7,57 18,45
28 14,91 8,15 18,72
F14 Plain 150/36 35 100/35 18 14,91 6,26 17,84
22 14,91 7,65 18,49
26 14,91 9,04 19,14
28 14,91 9,74 19,46
F15 Plain 150/36 35 150/96 18 14,91 7,67 18,5
22 14,91 9,37 19,29
26 14,91 11,08 20,09
28 14,91 11,93 20,49
294 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2
Materials
Yarns and Fabrics
48 polyester woven fabrics with different construction
parameters were used. The fabrics were woven under
controlled mill conditions in order to obtain the exact
construction properties. After weaving, the woven fabrics
were pretreated under mill conditions and prepared for color
measurement in the laboratory. The construction parameters
of the fabrics were given in Table 1. Twill and satin fabrics
were weft faced ones. The fibers of the yarns had round
cross sectional shapes. The warp yarn properties and warp
densities were the same for the corresponding sub-groups.
Weft yarn properties were different from each other in the
corresponding sub-groups. The differences were weft yarn
count, weft yarn density, weft yarn filament number and
consequently weft crimp in the sub-groups.
Methods
Preparation of the Yarn and Fabric Samples for Color
Measurement
The reflectances of the samples were measured on a
Macbeth Reflectance Spectrophotometer (MS 2020+) from
400-700 nm under a D65/10 o illuminant and in SCI
(Specular Component Included) mode. The fractional
reflectance values were recorded according to AATCC
Evaluation Procedure 6 [18].
The samples were prepared as four replicas for the
reflectance measurement. Four reflectance measurements
were made on each replica with a sample rotation of 90 o and
the fractional reflectance of a sample was calculated by
using total sixteen measurements.
Reflectance measurements of the replicas (single layer)
were made on a black background. The single layer replicas
were laid on the black background (black background color
coordinates; average %R: 4,88; average K/S: 9,27; L*: 26,3;
a*: 0,04; b*: -0,29; C*: 0,29; ho: 277,69) with a slight
fastening from the sides; neither causing any tension nor
change in surface characteristics (fabrics or yarns).
Figure Positioning of the yarns in the fabric during color
1.
measurement; (a) taken by a digital camera and (b) taken under the
microscope (20 times magnified).
Mine Akgun et al.
For the reflectance measurement of the samples in fabric
form; polyester fabrics were cut in 5 × 5 cm pieces and they
were laid as single layer on the black background, while for
the reflectance measurement of the samples in yarn form;
the yarns of one system (warp or weft) were taken out from
the fabric construction with a pair of tweezers, neither
destroying the structure nor the construction of the remaining
yarn system. The yarns were laid on the black background
and the reflectance was measured just as explained above. A
photograph representing the yarns before the measurement
was presented in Figure 1. The yarn system which was taken
out from the fabric structure by a pair of tweezers was absent
and the remaining yarn system was held slightly tight from
the both sides and it was ready for the color measurement.
Measurement of the Crimp
The crimps of the yarns in the fabric structures were
measured according to ASTM D3883-04 (2008) by Shirley
Crimp meter [21].
Statistical Evaluation
Measured reflectance results were compared with each
other according to statistical analysis of ANOVA and the
relation between the measured and calculated reflectance
results were compared with each other according to
correlation analysis.
Results and Discussion
The fractional reflectance values; as fabric reflectance,
warp reflectance and weft reflectance, were presented for the
three groups of fabrics in Figures 2-10. The first group of
fabrics (F1-F9) was woven from the same weft yarn count
which had different filament numbers (denier/filament
number; 100/36; 100/48; 100/144). These group of fabrics
differed from each other in weft densities (15; 18 and 20
thread/cm), in weft yarn filament numbers and in fabric
weave pattern (plain; 1/2 twill and 1/5 satin).
The second group of fabrics (F10-F12) was woven from
the same yarn in weft direction (75/36 weft yarn) and they
differed from each other in weft densities (27; 32 and 37
thread/cm) and in fabric weave patterns (plain; 1/3 twill and
1/7 satin).
The third group of fabrics (F13-F15) was woven from
different yarns in weft direction. The yarns differed from
each other both in yarn counts and in yarn filament numbers
(denier/filament number; 70/72; 100/35; 150/96). Also the
fabrics differed from each other in weft densities (18; 22; 26;
28 thread/cm). All the fabrics in this group had plain weave
pattern.
Percent Crimps of the Yarns in Fabric Structures
The yarn system (warp or weft) takes the crimp according
to the properties of the other yarn system. These properties
Assessing Fractional Reflectances of Polyester Fabrics Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2 295

Figure 2. Fabric fractional reflectances of first group of fabrics.

Figure 3. Fabric fractional reflectances of second group of fabrics.

Figure 4. Fabric fractional reflectances of third group of fabrics.

are yarn count, yarn density and weave pattern. Warp (c1 %) fabric construction parameters chosen. The both crimps
and weft (c2 %) crimps (in Figures 5-10, on x-axis) changed increased as the weft yarn density increased. Also warp
mainly with the changes in weft density because of the crimp increased and weft crimp decreased as the weft yarn
296 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2
count increased. The crimps decreased as the yarn float
length in the corresponding fabrics increased.
Fabric Reflectances and Fabric Construction Properties
The changes in fabric fractional reflectances with fabric
construction parameters were presented in Figures 2-4 for
the first, second and third group of fabrics respectively. The
fabric fractional reflectances in Figure 2 increased regularly
as the weft densities and weft yarn filament numbers
increased and as the fabric weave patterns changed from
plain to satin.
The fabric fractional reflectances in Figure 3 increased
regularly as the weft yarn densities increased and as the
fabric weave patterns changed from plain to satin; similar to
the results obtained in Figure 2.
The fabric fractional reflectances in Figure 4 increased
regularly as the weft yarn densities increased. The fractional
reflectance values differed from each other according to
different weft yarn counts and their filament numbers.
In Figures 2-4, the fabric fractional reflectances increased
as the weft yarn densities increased and as the fabric weave
patterns changed from plain to satin. The increase in weft
density meant that the yarn number in unit area increased.
The weave pattern which changed from plain to satin meant
that the weft yarn floating length in unit area increased. The
both increases led to a greater fabric area which reflected
the light and consequently the fractional reflectances
increased. Also the fractional reflectances increased as the
filament numbers of the weft yarns increased in Figures 2
and 4.
Warp Reflectances and Fabric Construction Properties
The changes in warp fractional reflectances with fabric
construction parameters were presented in Figures 5-7 for
the first, second and third group of fabrics respectively.
The warp fractional reflectances in Figure 5 showed two
Figure 5. Warp fractional reflectances of first group of fabrics.
Mine Akgun et al.
major characteristics from the viewpoint of increase and
decrease of the numerical values presented. The reflectances
decreased gradually as the weft densities and % warp crimps
increased. However, the reflectances increased slightly as
the fabric weave patterns changed from plain to satin.
The warp fractional reflectances in Figure 6 showed
almost the same behavior of the fabrics presented in Figure 5.
The warp fractional reflectances slightly increased as the
weave patterns changed from plain to satin. However, they
gradually decreased as the weft densities and % warp crimps
increased.
The warp fractional reflectances in Figure 7 showed the
same behavior of the fabrics presented in Figures 5 and 6.
All the fabrics had plain weave patterns and the reflectances
decreased as the weft densities and % warp crimps increased.
In Figures 5-7, the warp fractional reflectances decreased
as the % warp crimps and weft yarn densities increased. The
fractional reflectances decreased as the weft densities
increased because the crimps taken by the warp threads
increased. The increase in crimps of the warp yarns caused a
low amount of light reflection from the surfaces due to the
fabric surface roughness caused by the high crimps.
Probably a diffused reflection occurred from the surface, not
a specular one. However, the warp reflectances slightly
increased as the fabric patterns changed from plain to satin
because of the longer float lengths of the weft yarns in fabric
structure which caused a gradual decrease in warp crimps.
Probably diffused reflection was minimized by an increase
in specular reflection. In Figures 5 and 6, % warp crimps
gradually increased as the weft densities increased but they
gradually decreased as the fabric patterns changed from
plain to satin. The changes in weave pattern caused weft
yarns to take low crimps which resulted to low crimps in
warp yarns and high reflectances. It must also be pointed
that warp yarns had the same yarn count and had the same
density in the corresponding sub-groups.
Assessing Fractional Reflectances of Polyester Fabrics
Figure 6. Warp fractional reflectances of second group of fabrics.
Figure 7. Warp fractional reflectances of third group of fabrics.
Weft Reflectances and Fabric Construction Properties
The changes in weft fractional reflectances with fabric
construction parameters were presented in Figures 8-10 for
the first, second and third group of fabrics respectively.
The weft fractional reflectances in Figures 8 and 9
increased gradually as the weft yarn densities and % weft
crimps increased and as the fabric weaves changed from
plain to satin.
The weft fractional reflectances in Figure 10 also
increased gradually as the weft yarn densities and % weft
crimps increased. The fabrics (F13-F15) presented in Figure
10 had plain weave pattern.
In Figures 8-10, the weft fractional reflectances increased
as the weft yarn densities and % weft crimps increased and
as the weave patterns changed from plain to satin. The
reason of the increase could be explained as follows; as the
weft yarn densities increased and as the weave pattern
changed from plain to satin, the solid area on the surface
which reflected the light increased. The even surface
characteristic caused specular reflection to be maximized.
An overall discussion of the Figures 2-10 showed that
fractional reflectances of the polyester fabrics changed
Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2 297
considerably with the changes in fabric construction
parameters. The fabric reflectances were in close relation
with warp and weft reflectances and they were primarily
affected by weft properties because of the chosen fabric
construction parameters. Fabric reflectances and weft
reflectances increased as the weft yarn densities and the
number of filaments in the weft yarns increased and also as
the fabric patterns changed from plain to satin. However,
warp reflectances decreased as the weft yarn densities
increased. The reason of the decrease in warp reflectances
was the crimp of the yarns. The warp crimps increased
because of the increases in weft densities which led to an
uneven positioning of the warp yarns on fabric surface.
However, weft reflectances increased as the weft densities
and weft crimps increased. The fabrics had weft faced
constructions and the situation of weft yarns on the fabric
surface governed the total reflectances dominantly. Because
of that reason, the changes in the weft reflectances were
superior on fabric and warp light reflectances. The changes
in weft yarn properties (yarn count, % yarn crimp, yarn float
length and yarn filament number) and the changes in their
location in the structure (plain, twill and satin weave) could
298 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2 Mine Akgun et al.

Figure 8. Weft fractional reflectances of first group of fabrics.

Figure 9. Weft fractional reflectances of second group of fabrics.

Figure 10. Weft fractional reflectances of third group of fabrics.

have maximized the specular reflection because the fabrics have maximized the diffused reflection from them. The both
(twill and satin ones) were weft faced ones. These changes light reflection characteristics determined the fabrics’ light
made an opposite effect on warp reflectances which could reflection.
Assessing Fractional Reflectances of Polyester Fabrics Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2 299

Fractional Reflectances and Cover Factors
The cover factors of the fabrics were given in Table 1.
Because of the construction parameters of the fabrics, warp
cover factors in each sub-group were the same. Also the weft
cover factors of the first and second group of fabrics
changed with the changes in weft densities and they were the
same in their sub-groups. The weft cover factors of the third
group of fabrics were different from each other because of
the different weft yarn counts in the corresponding sub-
groups. The fabric cover factors changed with the same rule
of weft cover factors.
The cover factor in the warp or in the weft direction is
calculated by using the yarn density and yarn count in the
related direction (eq. (1)). The cover factor of the fabric is
calculated according to the Peirce formula (eq. (2)). The
calculated cover factors do not take neither the weave
patterns nor the yarn filament numbers into consideration. In the
present work, different fractional reflectances were obtained
at the fabrics with the same cover factor. The reflectances
changed considerably with the weave patterns and with the
filament numbers of the weft yarns. Although the fabric
cover factor was a measure of the cover of the fabric, the
light reflected from the fabric surfaces changed in relation
with the other construction properties besides the yarn count
and yarn density.
Statistical Evaluation of the Reflectance Results (ANOVA)
Fractional reflectances were tested according to factor
analysis of variance and the means were compared with each
other according to Student-Newman-Keuls (SNK) Test at
0.05 significance level by using a statistical package program.
The statistical results (ANOVA) of the measurements for
different factor numbers were presented in Table 2 for the
first, second and third group of fabrics.
The ANOVA results supported the changes obtained in
fractional reflectances and their relation with fabric construction
parameters. When the ANOVA results were considered for
fractional fabric and weft reflectances; the fabrics with satin
weave, the fabrics with the highest weft densities and the
fabrics having the yarns with the highest filament numbers
had the highest reflectances. The fractional warp reflectances
showed almost the same behavior but the highest warp
reflectances were obtained at the fabrics with the lowest weft
density. The crimp of the warp yarns increased as the weft
yarn counts increased because the fabric surface roughness
increased and warp reflectances decreased.
Results of the Proposed Equation
The calculation components and the results of equation (3)
for the 48 different fabrics were presented in Table 1 and they
were compared with the measured results in Figures 11-13.

Table 2. ANOVA results

Fabric reflectance Warp reflectance Weft reflectance
Group No. Factors Treatment
*Rank *Rank *Rank
1 (Plain) 3 3 3
Weave pattern 2 (Twill 1/2) 2 2 2
3 (Satin 1/5) 1 1 1
Filament number 1 (100/36) 3 3 3
1 (denier/filament number) 2 (100/48) 2 1 1
3 (100/144) 1 2 2
Weft density 1 (15) 3 1 3
(1/cm) 2 (18) 2 2 2
3 (20) 1 3 1
1 (Plain ) 3 3 3
Weave pattern 2 (Twill 1/3) 2 2 2
3 (Satin 1/7) 1 1 1
2
Weft density 1 (27) 3 1 3
(1/cm) 2 (32) 2 2 2
3 (37) 1 3 1
Weft yarn count 1 (70/72) 3 1 3
(denier/filament number) 2 (100/35) 1 2 1
3 (150/96) 2 3 2
3 1 (18) 4 1 4
Weft density 2 (22) 3 3 3
(1/cm) 3 (26) 2 2 2
4 (28) 1 4 1
*The rank is presented from the highest reflectance to the lowest reflectance.
300 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2 Mine Akgun et al.

Figure 11. Comparison of the measured and calculated fractional reflectances of the first group of fabrics.

Figure 12. Comparison of the measured and calculated fractional reflectances of the second group of fabrics.

Figure 13. Comparison of the measured and calculated fractional reflectances of the third group of fabrics.

Warp cover factors (Kwa) were the same for all the fabrics
in the corresponding sub-groups because warp yarn counts
and warp densities were chosen the same for all the fabric
types in them. Weft cover factors changed as the weft yarn
counts and densities changed in the corresponding structures
in Table 1.
The measured and calculated fractional reflectance values
were presented in Figures 11-13 according to the construc-
tional properties of the fabrics.
Fabric reflectances increased as the weft yarn densities,
weft yarn counts, weft yarn filament numbers (for the same
weft yarn count) increased and as the fabric patterns changed
Assessing Fractional Reflectances of Polyester Fabrics
from plain to satin (yarn float lengths increased and yarn
crossings decreased) in Figures 11-13.
In this study, fabric samples were woven with the same
warp and weft yarns in the corresponding groups and sub-
groups. In these groups of fabrics, the weave patterns
changed but cover factors of the fabrics remained the same.
Reflectances increased as the patterns changed from plain to
satin which meant that reflectance from unit area increased
due to weave pattern and surface regularity.
The fabrics with the same yarn counts and yarn densities;
as a result they had the same fabric cover factors, had
different reflectances which originated from the differences
in the other fabric construction properties. These different
properties were yarn filament numbers and fineness, yarn
floats and yarn float lengths in the different fabric weave
patterns. Filament fineness is not considered in the
calculation of the fabric cover factors but yarn density and
yarn count are taken into account.
The increase in reflectance value meant that the light
reflection by unit surface increased. The increase in
reflectance by fabric surface showed that the light which fell
on the surface was reflected back as result of less absorption
of the light by the surface. The absorption of the light
depends on the light absorbing molecules on or in the
surface. In this study, the measurements were made on white
yarns and fabric surfaces which did not include any light
absorbing molecules, i.e. dyes. The light was reflected by the
yarn and fabric surfaces according to the surface and
construction properties of the yarns and fabrics.
The increase in reflectances implied that some specular
reflection of light took place on fabric surfaces. In color
science and color measurement, specular reflection is the
result of regular and gloss surfaces in which the incident
light is reflected by an angle almost equal to the angle of
incidence. When the textile surfaces are considered, there
are two main reasons of specular reflection from the
surfaces. The first origin of the specular reflection from
textile surfaces is the regularity of the surfaces. As the textile
surfaces become regular, which means that as the intersection
of the warp and weft yarns decreases (satin weave fabrics),
the surfaces become like glossy surfaces and light reflection
increases. When plain, twill and satin weaves are considered;
the amount of specularly reflected light is greater at satin
surfaces than the remaining two because of the less
intersections of the warp and weft yarns and long floating of
the yarns in satin weave. Plain weave surfaces which have
the highest number of yarn intersections are matte surfaces
when compared with twill and satin surfaces. The light is
usually reflected diffusely from plain weave surfaces. The
second origin of the specular reflection is the diameters of
the fibers and yarns in the fabric structure. Because of the
thin diameters of the fibers and yarns, the light back-
scattering from the surfaces increases. When the light enters
a thin filament, e.g. a microfilament, it is not fully absorbed
Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2 301
in the fiber and it leaves the fiber from the opposite surface.
The light falls on another filament and back-scatters to the
air. This phenomenon which is encountered especially at the
fabrics woven from microfilaments increases the amount of
reflected light and surfaces appear lighter. For this reason,
fiber fineness and fiber diameter affect the amount of
reflected light from the surface.
The fabrics which were used in the experimental part
included the both origins of specular reflection at different
levels in the corresponding sub-groups. The light reflectances
from the fabric samples increased as the patterns changed
from plain to satin (surface regularity increased) and as the
filament diameters of the yarns decreased (back-scattering
effect increased).
The fabric cover factor correlates the fabric surface cover
with the light reflection (or light transmission through the
fabric) from the surface. The formulation of the fabric cover
factor considers the area covered by the yarns but it does not
consider the interaction of light with the physical properties
of the surface. The experimental results presented in this
paper indicated that the light reflection from the fabric
surfaces also changed with the weave patterns and filament
fineness of the yarns. The proposed equation stated a novel
relation among the covers of fabrics, warp yarns and weft
yarns and their reflectances.
The results presented in Figures 11-13 revealed that the
results of the proposed equation fitted with the actual results
obtained from reflectance measurements. Also the proposed
equation considers the effects of the more regular surfaces
on reflectances.
Correlation Analysis of the Proposed Equation with the
Reflectance Measurements
The correlation analysis between the measured and
calculated fractional reflectance values were computed for
the three groups of fabrics separately. The correlation
coefficients were found as 0.881079, 0.889424, and 0.962625
for the first, second and third group of fabrics respectively.
The overall correlation coefficient of the results is 0.940349.
The high correlation coefficients indicated the validity of the
proposed equation for the experimental details of the study.
Conclusion
The experimental results showed that fabric fractional
reflectances and weft fractional reflectances increased as the
weft yarn densities increased and as the fabric patterns
changed from plain to satin. Also the fractional reflectances
changed with the changes in yarn filament numbers. Not
only fiber fineness but also fiber number is important in light
reflecting properties of the yarns and fabrics. Warp
reflectances changed according to the changes in weft yarn
properties because warp yarns were constant in the
corresponding fabric structures and behaved according to
302 Fibers and Polymers 2010, Vol.11, No.2
the yarn crimp that they had taken in the structure. Warp
reflectances showed slight increases as the fabric patterns
changed from plain to satin but they also showed slight
decreases as the weft yarn densities and weft yarn diameters
increased in the corresponding fabric groups. The changes in
warp reflectances occurred although the calculated warp
cover factors were the same. Cover factor is calculated by
using the yarn density and the yarn count but the results
showed that fabric, warp and weft reflectances changed
considerably by the changes in fiber fineness, fiber number
and weave pattern. Changes in reflectances could be
considered as changes in cover of the fabric.
Reflectances of the fabrics changed considerably although
they had the same fabric cover factors in the corresponding
sub-groups.
Fabrics woven from the yarns having the same yarn count
in plain and in satin weave had the same fabric cover factors.
But their light reflectances were much different from each
other because of the changes in cover of the different
weaves. The proposed formula presented a novel relation
between the fractional reflectances and cover factors of the
fabrics.
A general statement can not always be made expressing
that the cover of the fabrics increase as the weaves change
from plain to satin because the cover of the fabrics also
depends on the fiber fineness of the fabric constituting yarns.
The yarn properties which are related by fiber fineness can
compensate the effects of changing weave pattern on light
reflectances.
The equation proposed in this paper can be used in
investigating the effects of yarn filament fineness, filament
number and fabric weave on the cover and on reflectance
properties of the woven fabric. It gives reasonable results
with changing fabric construction parameters.
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