ClipperGuy Says… Understanding Clipper Motor Types

Ivan Zoot explains the three basic clipper motor types and
how to know which one is right for the clipper cutting task
at hand.

How do you know which tool to pick up to create the look

you are after? How do you know that the clipper you choose
is up to the task or is right for the hair density and
texture of the client you are preparing to cut?

Different tools are designed for different cutting

applications.

If you know the clipper motor types and their benefits you
can reach for the right tool every time.

There are three basic clipper motor types. Magnetic motor

clippers are very popular for a number of reasons. Pivot
motor clippers are less well known and feature a bit of
mystery. Rotary motor clippers offer unique benefits that
many clipper cutters enjoy. I will explain all three motor
types in detail as well as cite popular examples of each
clipper motor style.

Magnetic motor clippers

Magnetic motor clippers offer high blade speeds. They are

popular with many clipper cutters. They can be found at a
wide range of price points, power levels, sizes, weights
and finishes. They range from top-of-the-line professional
tools to low cost, home use cheapies.
The high blades speeds of these magnetic motors are a big
benefit for smooth cutting action and feel. The downside
is lower levels of blade torque or power. The blades of
magnetic motor clippers are moving so fast you can barely
see the cutter blade when the clipper is switched on. This
high speed allows the clipper to plow smoothly through hair
and leave behind a velvety finish to the hair.

If you press your thumb down on the moving cutter blade of

a magnetic motor clipper you can stall the motor. This
demonstrates that although the blade is moving quite fast,
the torque or power is lower than one might expect. As a
result, magnetic motor clippers are ideally suited to dry
hair cutting. All textures and densities of hair will feed
and cut well with magnetic motor clippers. Thick, heavy,
wet hair will bog or stall many magnetic motor clippers.
If you are intending to cut a lot of hair of this type it
is suggested that you give a pivot motor clipper a try. We
will discuss these in detail below.

Magnetic motor clippers are great for cutting with snap-on

guide combs or attachment guards. These guards are
typically used on dry hair so it is natural for them to be
used with magnetic motor clippers.

The Andis Improved Master clipper is one of the most

popular magnetic motor clippers in the professional barber
game.

Most magnetic motor clippers feature adjustable blades.

The standard blade adjustment range is from 000 to #1 blade
lengths. This is roughly equivalent to a range of 1/100 of
an inch at the shortest and 1/8 inch at the longest. Blade
adjustment is typically controlled by a blade adjustment
lever found on the upper side of the clipper housing.
Higher end tools feature a friction adjustment. This
allows the blade to be positioned and held securely at any
point throughout the blade length range. Some lower end
adjustable blade clippers feature a series of click
positions for the blade adjustment range. These clicks are
great for returning to the same length position repeatedly,
however for world class tapering results you will likely
need to place the blade in between clinks in many cases and
that just cannot be done.

The snap on guide combs that are sold with many magnetic
motor clippers are labeled with cutting lengths. These
numbers, English fractions, metric millimeters or ordered
numbers from 1 through 8, refer to the length of hair to be
left behind in the wake of the clipper. These numbers are
based upon their cutting lengths when used on the clipper
with the blade adjustment in the 000, “close” or “closed”
position. Here is a link to a great video on a snap-on
guard cutting technique.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uh93hUCW
HA4

All clippers need to be oiled regularly. It is recommended

that blades be oiled after every use. There is a great
YouTube video that demonstrates proper clipper oiling and
care procedures. Watch it here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Y3cb2d-
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Pivot motor clippers
Pivot motor clippers are popular tools for a wide variety
of clipper cutting applications. The pivoting design of
the clipper motor results in a clipper blade that runs at
half the speed of a magnetic motor clipper blade. If you
look at the clipper blade you can easily see that the blade
is just not moving nearly as fast as the magnetic motor
clipper blades do.

The trade off is that the blade has significantly more

cutting torque, force or power than magnetic motor clippers
offer. If you press your thumb down on the moving cutter
blade of a running pivot motor clipper you will likely cut
your thumb before you will stall the blade.

This higher torque or blade power makes pivot motor

clippers ideal for cutting thick, heavy hair. If you
typically shampoo hair prior to cutting and, as such,
clipper cut on wet to damp hair you will love the feed and
power of pivot motor clippers. The lower blade speed will
require that your cutting action and hand motions be a bit
slower and more deliberate than you might use when cutting
with a magnetic motor clipper. The smooth feeding and
awesome power of pivot motor clippers are well worth the
trade off.

The Andis SpeedMaster has been a very popular and strong

selling example of a pivot motor clipper. The pivot
motor’s design is more compact and features fewer moving
parts. As a result, pivot motor clippers are smaller,
lighter and easier to handle than many magnetic motor
clippers. They are more durable, too.
Many cosmetology schools provide pivot motor clippers in
their student kits because they are small, light, easy to
hold and relatively inexpensive.

Most pivot motor clippers feature adjustable blades and

include snap-on guide combs.

Stylists and barbers appreciate these durable clippers for

their simplicity, power and value.

Rotary motor clippers

Rotary motor clippers are the work horses of the hair
cutting business. Rotary motor clippers offer both high
blade speeds and high cutting power.

More motor equals more speed. More motor equals more

power. More motor equals more clipper. The bigger the
motor, the bigger the speed and power, but the trade off is
that this can become a very big and a very heavy tool. It
all comes down to balance. Ideally a great rotary motor
clipper will have plenty of speed and power, but will not
have gotten too big and heavy to be reasonably nimble and
functional.

Most very large animal clippers are wicked fast and mighty
powerful but just too big and heavy to be practical for
human hair cutting use.

Rotary motor clippers range from about 2,400 strokes per

minute (SPM) at the low end of the spectrum to 4,500+ SPM
at the top of the range. A speed of about 3,300 SPM is
ideal for most human hair clippering. Rotary motor
clippers are offered in single speed models, 2 speed models
and even 5 speed models. There are a few variable speed
units out there. These feature a dial which allows a full
spectrum of speeds. Most of these are animal grooming
tools repackaged for sale in the beauty and barber business
and not really viable as human hair cutting choices.

Different blade speeds offer cutting options and choices.

Slower blade speeds build up blade heat from friction at a
slower rate. Faster clippers get hot faster.

Blade speeds also affect the feed rate of hair into the
teeth and through the blade.
Cutting on the scalp where the blade is in contact with the
client’s head can be more comfortable for the client with a
slower blade speed in use. Slower blade speeds also
provide greater cutting control in these precision fading
and tapering applications.

High blade speeds are preferred for off the scalp cutting.
Techniques like classic clipper-over-comb and free hand
afro shaping benefit from blade speeds high enough so as to
feed and cut hair without pushing and distorting hair
position.

The Andis BGRc is an example of a high powered, high speed

rotary motor clipper. It strikes a balance between size,
weight, power and speed that makes it a good choice for
many hair cutters.

Rotary motor clippers are offered with either adjustable

blades similar to the other two motor types or featuring
detachable blade systems.

These detachable blades snap on and off easily. They offer

a wide range of cutting lengths and special applications.

The Application Chart

The chart below provides a quick reference for selecting

the right clipper motor type for many cutting applications.

Choose the right clipper for the job

Best clipper
Work to motor choice
 Be performed Magnetic Pivot Rotary
Dry Tapering X
Damp/wet cutting X X
Snap-on guard use X X
Military cuts X
Fades on textured hair X
High volume chain shops X
Afro shaping X X
Flat top cutting X X
Students and beginners X
Home use X