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Garry’s mod – Beyond the basics

Copyright, Anders Møller 2009 - 2010, All rights reserved.



Chapter 1: Proper building

Must have addons

How to weld properly

Weight is the keyword

Sliders of destruction (help, they spazz)


Adv duplicator of doom

What have we learned

Chapter 2: Wiremod

How Wiremod work and communicate


A wire hover-plate

Commonly used wire components

Chapter 3: Building an V-engine
The gyroscope

Setting up the visual part

Doing the Wiremod

Other types of engines

Chapter 4: My watermelon machine

About my watermelon machine

Visuals and Wiremod

What have we learned?

Chapter 5: Fin tool

Fin tool principles

Finned surfaces

Making a finned propeller

Wind with fin tool

My finned plane

Ending words


In this book, I’m going to explain about how the universe of Gmod works.
When your reading this book, I assume that you are already familiar with the
basics of Gmod. You’re able to create basic contraptions, and have mastered
every standard tool. I don’t think Gmod can be compared to real life physics,
as gmod tends to be buggy, and very irrational. This book will go into details
on Wiremod, and fin tool. What is important when you learn something new, is
that you do not just learn how a specific thing is done, but also how it works,
what you did to make it work, and how you can use that new knowledge to
build other contraptions.

Well, why not just go read some tutorials?

Tutorials in many cases, does not teach you the actual knowledge
about the machine you’re learning to build. Which means, you
might be unable to use the knowledge you just gained to build
other contraptions? What this book tries to do, is do explain the
fundamentals of the building process, so you will be able to actually
transfer the knowledge to other projects.

Wiremod and fin tool for instance, especially Wiremod, can be very
hard to learn, if you do not have someone to really teach you the
fundamentals on how this works. Instead of showing you: “How to
build a wire laser canon”, I’m showing you all the necessary
knowledge, that you could use to build a laser canon for instance,

or many other things. Basically teaching you to work with wire and
fin tool in an overall perspective

My word: Spazz means: going crazy, acting weird, swearing word

Chapter 1: Building fundamentals

Must have addons:

Before we even begin, there’s some addons you must have. Some are required
to follow this eBook, other are just general must-have tools. Under all
circumstances I recommend you to get all these addons, if you’re serious
about building. Most can be downloaded from

1. Phoenix-Storms (svn)
2. Wiremod (svn)
3. Weight Stool
4. Cona tools
5. Smart welder
6. Multi no collide
7. Fin tool
8. Stacker tool
9. Smart snap
10. viktor's tools

I won’t go in to details about every specific addon, that can be done with a
simple Google search. Plus many of them, is really easy to understand, just by
looking on their name.

How to weld properly:

Many new players simply don’t know how to weld. First of all, 1 weld does the
trick. It does not matter, if you weld a 100 times on the same 2 objects, or 1
time. In Garry’s mod 9, it did, in the newest version it does NOT. Second, don’t
just weld from object to object. For instance if you have 4 plates named 1, 2,
3, 4,

You don’t weld it like this:

1>2 2>3 3> 4

You do weld them like this:

1>2 1>3 1>4

2>3 2>4


If you follow the wrong method, it will get really unstable. Following the
second correct method, with insure you a stable 1 piece of plate, by welding
every single plate, to every other plate.

That takes ages?

Yeah! Indeed it does. You know what? That’s why Smart welder is a Must have
addon! It enables you to simply select all the props you want welded together,
and then right click, BAM, all your props are welded properly. Remember to
adjust settings in smart welding first, with unlimited max welds per prop, and
unlimited stability welds per prop.


Don’t smart weld objects that is already welded. That makes their position to
spazz. When I build, I do an easy precision weld, and remove the weld, still
freezing it to the position. I do that for every prop that is a part of the
contraption. Then, at last, I smart weld it all together.

Weight is the keyword!

Oh yes, Gmod. Gmod with its kind of retarded unrealistic physics. “it’s not
about the size” we have heard that sentence many times. Guess what, it is not
about the size, it’s about “the weight”. Take a standard Gmod blue barrel for
instance, it floats. Weld a container to the barrel, it sinks. If you then add tons
of weight to the barrel (at least equal to the containers weight) it will start
floating again. Weight means everything in Gmod, mass, dimensions, size,
doesn’t matter. It’s about the weight. If you make a fin for instance, the fin will
get more powerful adding weight to it. Adding weight to a small cola can
thruster will make it as powerful as the big thrusters in the thruster menu.
Remember that guys.

Sliders of destruction:

You are always told to avoid sliders, people say they are buggy. They are not
that buggy anymore I think. I almost have no problems using sliders anymore,
there’s just some basic rules you have to follow when using sliders

Again, weight is one of the keywords if you want to control your sliders. A very
low weight object, is more likely to spazz out, than an object with more
weight. Don’t ask me why, that’s just how stuff work. Another thing is, if your
slider spazz, don’t give up, give it a few tries. Try to switch the object your
using it on, try with multiple sliders. IMPORTANT: no collide anything the slider
object is in path with. In general, no colliding things prevents spazz. Also,
when talking sliders. It can be about “the size”, wider “objects” tends to have a
better relationship with sliders.

Adv duplicator of doom

The adv duplicator is basically retarded. If you save stuff that contains
following: hydraulics on ball socket props, sliders, and explosives. You might
be doomed when loading it. Hydraulics on ball socket items tend to get all
messed up and spazzy when loading them from an adv dupe file. It’s most
likely to happen when the hydraulics are attached to a fin with ball sockets.

The reason why the hydraulics spazzes when loading, is because of the adv.
Duplicator. Hydraulics spazz when weight is changed on an object and then
saving and loading it. You have to return the objects, to normal weight, before
saving it. Then loading it, and changing the weight again to the desired weight.
What the wire team should do would be to make the weight standard, when
loading the object, then 2 seconds after, change the weight to what it was

saved as. Then it wouldn’t be buggy at all. I will contact the wire-team to hear
their opinion on this

Sliders doesn’t always get affected by saving, it’s not very common at least.

Explosives tend to blowup when loading the machine, not very often anymore
though. If it’s explosives, remove the wire connect from the explosive before
saving, and then wire up when you load.

In general, capture your contraption in action, before saving it. Then you at
least had a little good time spent with a working contraption.

What have we learned?

You’ve learned how to weld properly, how to avoid things going
mad. In general how not to build like a newb in gmod.

Chapter 2: Wiremod

How Wiremod works and communicates:

Wiremod is one of the most important addons to Garry’s mod. Without

Wiremod, Garry’s mod really wouldn’t be much fun. Wiremod is a way to make
things automatic, without the user controlling every event that happens. You
have a bunch of gates and tech stuff which will help you make things
automatic. For instance, a door that automatically slides open when you’re
near it uses Wiremod to automatic that event. Wiremod is not very hard to
learn, but you need to understand how it actually communicates. It’s not
enough to learn how to build a big automatic laser gun, if you don’t know how

the laser gun actually works, and can’t transfer that knowledge to other


Wiremod communicates through values. Positive values like 1, enables a Wire

component, while negative values will opposite the event/reaction. The neutral
0 will deactivate a specific component. There are tons of components to choose
from. I must admit, I’m no “wire god”, and there are components that I simply
do not know how to use, I’ve never really had any challenge that required
components I normally didn’t use.

As I said in the introduction, this book is intended to explain how the basic and
a little more advanced Wiremod works.

A thruster powered “hover-plate”

I’m going to do an illustrated example of how a basic value connection would

work. We will make a “hover-plate” that is able to go forward, and backwards.
All on 1 thruster.

For the experiment, I’m going to use:

A Wiremod thruster

2 Wiremod button

4 standard hoverballs

1. Make the following setup: A 2x2 phx plate, with a 1x1 to hold to controls
and Wiremod.
2. Add 4 wire hoverballs on each corner of the setup, with a good strength
and low wind resistance
3. Add Wiremod thruster with a force multiplier of 100, to the center back
of the 2x2 plate. add 2 buttons to the plate: 1 with a off value of 0, and

an on value of 1. The second has an off value of 0. And an on value of -1
checking the box: “toggled” will make the value continuously send until
you use the button again, while not toggled only makes it active when
you press the button.
4. You add a gate next two the buttons, and “arithmetic gate” more specific
an “add” gate. Here’s how it should look now:

5. Choose the wire tool: you can switch between what part of the
component you wire by pressing the right mouse click, and place the
actual wire on the left click. Hover over the thruster with the wire tool,
you will see the input: “A” this is where the thruster will receive it’s
values. Press the left key on the thruster choosing the “A” input. Now, go
to the “arithmetic add” gate and left click that. Now the thruster is wired
to the arithmetic output, every value the arithmetic holds, will be send to
the thruster

6. Wire the arithmetic “a” input, to the positive valued button by scrolling
the inputs on the right click mouse button.

7. Wire the “b” input to the other button

8. Now release it and see how you can go forward and backwards

How does it work?

The arithmetic add gate, stacks values it receives, and can send it to other
things that need the specific value it holds. The receiving part is always chosen
first, meaning that we in this instance clicked the thrusters A input, and
connected it to the add gate output automatically when we left clicked the add
gate. Now we connect the arithmetic add gate to the two buttons, selecting the
add gate first makes it the receiving part. A button cannot receive any values,
only output. That’s why there’s no letter options when you hover it.

We need the positive value to make it go forward, and the negative value to
make it go backwards. The “1” multiplies with the value of the thruster’s
multiplier on 100. If the value is “1” it makes it go forward with a 100 force. If
the value was 3, it would multiply with 3, and make it go forward at a setting
of 300 force.

Now, I want you to figure out yourself how to make it turn right and left for
instance. If it seems logical for you now, you’ve understood how it works, and
you can transfer the value sending to other components, and other projects.

Here I’m going to mention the most popular components in Wiremod, and how
they work.

1. Target finder: A target finder is a device, that can track things. It’s
normally used to track stuff like players or props, but it can be really
specific, and for instance target players with a specific steamID. It will
e.g. be used in a sliding door, that automatically slides open when I
player comes near. In that case, it’s roll would be to track the players
around the map. When a target is acquired, it sends out the value one,
which can activate different events. A target finder does not output
specific information about the location of the object your tracking

2. Beacon sensor: A target finder’s buddy. A Target finder is by itself, is

not much worth. But with a beacon sensor connected, it becomes much
more useful. A beacon sensor goes specific about the target finder’s
target. It can output many things, such as distance. And it’s very useful
combined with a comparison gate!

3. Gate – Arithmetic this contains some of the most important gates, the
add gate allow you to store a value obtained from multiple devices. The
round up gate removes decimals from a value, and rounds it up, also
very useful if the value needs to be shown on e.g. a screen.

4. Gate – Comparison A very important type of gate. It’s used to compare

two values, if the comparison matches, it will send out the value one.
Equal, greater than, less than is pretty straight forward. Is in range
(inclusive) is a gate, that compares 2 values. If value A, is between a

minimum and maximum value, it will send out the value 1. Is in range
(exclusive) is simply the opposite, saying. If value A isn’t between
minimum and maximum, it sends out the value 1.

5. Gate – Memory Also a very important gate, if you want to do more

advanced stuff. The d-latch, stores 1 value and only 1. The “clk” is what
is supposed to activate the value, while the “data” is the actual data It
receives. It sends out the value that the data contains, if the data
changes, the value it sends changes. The latch (edge triggered) basically
is a toggled version of the d-latch. When the “clk” (activator) is
activated, it sends out the data until the “clk” is pressed again. The
“toggled” gate, will let you set both on and off value. The “toggled” is
always edge triggered.

6. Gate – Time Very useful, lets you make for instance a counter. The
smoother is very useful too, it determines at what rate, you want a
specific action to be carried out.

7. Speedometer One of the most basic Wire components, everyone knows

how to use that. It can be used to indicate the speed of an object. Also
great with a comparison gate.

8. Screen The screen is used to show a value from a wire component, very
simple to use and understand.

9. Sound emitter Well, emits a sound. Activated by the value 1 or higher.

10. Adv. Input Well, lets you gradually increase decrease a value.
Great tool for engines, thrusters, anything with a adjustable value!
Another option is the Arithmetic increment/Decrement gate, which is
wired and can be controlled with buttons, adv pod controller etc.

11. Button well guess what, it’s a button :O You can activate deactivate
values with it. What a surprise.

12. Input Looks for specific keyboard numbers pressed, also dual input
that can look for 2 presses.

13. Adv. Pod controller Amazing tool, connects to a pod. And

everyone in the pod, can control the outputs.

14. Constant value The most important wire component, makes a

values, that other components use. It’s a visual number, you could say.

That was some of the most used basic wire components. Go experiment with
it, find out what you can use in your contraptions. And, experiment with other
Wire components. The name tells a lot about the specific component, and
once you get the basic wire rules, sending values etc. Then it will be pretty
easy to use all the other components.

Good luck with the Wiremod.

Chapter 3: Making an V-Engine

In this chapter, we will build a basic v2 engine. Building this engine, teaches
you the principles of building a V engine, and you would be able to build bigger
engines like v4’s, or maybe even v100’s :D

The gyroscope

The Gyroscope is essential when making an engine. It determines when the

thrusters/pistons in the engine is supposed to thrust/ignite by measuring
angles of the wheel.

Setting up the visual part

First of all, precision is one of the keywords when building an engine. Keep it
as precise as possible!

1. Spawn a 1x1 phx plate, 2 barrels from the Phx useful menu. Now
position it as on bellow illustration. Change the weight of the barrels to
50, to have the right weight ratio when pistons is added.

2. Axis a wheel from the “ PHX transportation props” menu (the

one on the picture) Just set the friction to 1, and unlimited
torque limit.

3. Create a sign from the: “Comic useful props menu”. The sign
will act as a piston. No-collide sign with the barrel, and
connect it with 2 sliders to the barrel, as seen on the picture
bellow (hint! Right click the barrels sides. The barrel is a little
buggy, so don’t right click the signs sides)

4. Now, add a thruster to the center of the sign. Like

5. Repeat the process for the other barrel, making a new sign, thruster and
connecting slider.
6. Now, for the right barrel. Make a normal rope with the “Rigid” box
checked, from the center of the thruster, to a little over the center on
the wheel, as seen here

7. Repeat for the other barrel, but this time. Slide the thruster down to the
bottom of the barrel, and connecting the rope opposite the other barrel.

8. The visual should now look like this. Release the wheel and the 2 pistons,
remember to no collide the signs, thrusters, barrels, and the wheel. Now
give it a spin, and see If the pistons will move and work probably. After
that, return it to the original position.

Doing the Wiremod

Doing the actual Wiremod of an engine, actually isn’t that difficult. First of all,
you need to know how an Engine’s pistons work. The piston pushes down,
making the wheel spin. In this case, we have 2 pistons, which means we will
have to divide the wheels rotation by 2. 360 divided by 2, is 180. We want one
of the thruster push from 10 – 180. And the other from 190 – 360. As you see,
I leave 10 degrees without thrust, between each thrust. That basically makes
the engine run smoother. And that’s what we want, a stable and smooth
pressure on the engine is really important, especially if you want to transfer
the power by phoenix gears e.g.

1. First off, create a Gyroscope, and weld it to the center of the wheel like
this. Remember to no-collide

2. Now, we will do the Wiremod at the back of the engine.

3. Add a “arithmetic Round up gate. Connect it’s A input to the Gyroscopes
“Roll” output. Make a Screen, and connect that to the round up gate.
Place the screen like on bellow picture, then you will have an overview
over what angle the wheel is at, just to ensure the wheel is spinning
right. If it spins right, it spins from 1 – 360 counterclockwise. If not,
simply flip the Gyroscope around.

4. M

t value. The the number of values to “4”. Value 1 = 10. Value 2 = 180.
Value 3 = 190. Value 4 = 460.

5. Now make 2 comparison gates “Is in range (inclusive)”

6. For comparison gate nr 1, set the “value” to the roundup, min to

constant value “10” and max to value “180”

7. For nr 2, set the value to round up gate, and min to 190, max to 360.

Now we have comparison gates measuring at where the wheel is. If the value
of the gyroscope angle is between 10 and 180, comparison nr 1 sends out the
value “1”. If it is between 190 and 360, comparison nr 2 sends out the value 1.
Now what we want, is the thrusters to respond to these 2 values.

8. Make an Adv. Input, with a max value of 100. You decide which buttons
9. Now, make 2 “memory gate – toggle while (edge triggered)” . Set the
“Clk” to one of the 2 comparison gates. It’s important that each is wired
to two different comparison gates. The “on value” they receive, will be
set to the Adv. Input. The function “while” is wired to the same
comparison as you wired the “clk”. Just leave off-value alone, as it’s
default is 0.

10. Now, Connect the Thruster that’s roped to the top of the wheel, with
the memory gate gate that has the comparison with in range between 10
and 180.

11. Next, connect the thruster at that is roped to the bottom of the
wheel, to the memory gate, that has the comparison with range between
190 and 360.

12. Give it some thrust, around 100 on the Adv. Input (you could make
a screen for that too!) Push the wheel a little with your physics gun. And
it should run!!! :D

My v12 engine

I’ve made an v12 engine, and it basically goes around the same principles.
What I simply did was to divide the wheels rotation (360) by 12 = 30, set it
up. Then Connect rope, turn the wheel 30 degrees, connect next rope. And
then keep on doing that, until I was done. Then I simply wired the engine like
we just did, telling each thruster when to thrust, using a gyroscope!

Other types of engines

What we just made, was an V boxer engine. You can also make engines called
“Slapper engines”. I’m not going to explain how to do that, there’s already a
lot of tutorials on that type of engine. Slapper engine produces more power,
and runs more stable. But I don’t think they look very cool, they look a little
silly actually. A V engine looks much cooler on for instance a car or something
like that.

Chapter 4 – My watermelon machine

My Garry’s mod watermelon machine has become quite popular on YouTube,
at my channel:

It’s not because it has taken much skill to make, it’s more the simplicity, and
concept the machine is build on.

I’m going to cover how to make it step by step, though it’s for you more
important to see which techniques I use, to make it become a reality.

It’s basically a moving plate, moving under 2 prop spawners, a box, and a
melon. In the movie, I’m using cona tools sensors to sensor where the plate is.
Where’re going to do it a little different. Instead of sensors, we are going to
use rangers instead. Rangers is a Wire component, and it’s more important for
you to get familiar with that. In the movie, I’m also using a very low powered

thruster, to make the plate move. We’re going to use hydraulics instead, as it’s
more precise.

Visuals and Wiremod

We aren’t going to make it look pretty, what’s important is the actual wire.

1. spawn a 1x1 phx plate, and stack it an extra 250. Like on this picture

2. Add another 1x1 plate with Wire-hydraulics to the existing plate.

Remember to uncheck the box fixed. Add 2 hydraulics like on this
picture. Right-click with the hydraulics tool on the plate, make a separate
plate, and left click to place the controller on that. The controller contains
the information about the length of the hydraulics, we can change that.
Also, add 2 sliders, one in each side.

3. Spawn a watermelon

4. And a box, both from the comic useful props menu

5. Use the Wire prop spawner tool, and left click both. You see they actually
become invisible, when not highlighted. Therefore I recommend selecting
them both with the multi no collide multi tool, that will make them blue
until your finished, and then you simply left click with the multi no collide


6. Place them in the path of the hydraulic plate. Not much higher. Like

7. Let’s wire this part first. First of, we need the hydraulics to move. So,
make a “memory – toggled (edge triggered)” gate. Make a constant
value of 250, make a wire button with an on value of 1, and an off value
of 0 remember to uncheck “toggled”. Now wire the “clk” to the button.
The on value will be connected to the constant value of “250”.

8. To smooth things out, make a “time – smoother” gate. Add another

constant value of 20. Connect the “rate” to 20, and the “value” to the
memory gate. Now, make sure the memory gate shows the value 0, if
not, press the button once. Connect the hydraulic controllers to the
“smoother” gate.

What we’ve basically done so far, is to place the prop spawners. And, make
the hydraulic move. The button sends the value 1, which activates the

memory, which then sends the value 250, while the button is active. The
smoother then smoothes the value 250, and gives the hydraulics that value.
The hydraulics will now use that value as their length.

Now what we need to do, is to make the prop spawners react, when the
plate passes under them.

9. Make 2 rangers, both with “show beam” and “output distance” checked.
set the beam length to around 45, and place them like this:

10. Now make 2 “arithmetic – add” gates. These will hold the value for
the prop spawners, we won’t connect them directly to the rangers,
because we want to add a reset button in the end.
11. Make 2 “comparison – Greater than” gates. Make a constant value
of “0” . Now, connect the comparison A to one of the rangers, and the
other comparison A to the other ranger.

12. When the plate now passes, it will send out a value greater than 0,
which will make the comparison gate send out the value 1. Now we want
the each individual add gates we made, connect to one of the
comparison gates.
13. The first prop spawner, is the box. Connect its “spawn” input, to the
add that is attached to the ranger beside it. And the opposite for the
other prop spawner.
14. Now it should spawn a box, when we pass the 1 ranger with the
plate, and a watermelon, when we pass the other ranger with the plate.

In the video, I have that little push out system. You can make that too, it’s
build on same principles as I just showed you right now.

So things you could try on your own, is:

1. Make a reset button! You could do that by sending a huge negative value
in to the prop spawners add gates, when you press a button. And then
reset the hydraulics.
2. Add the little push out thing. That can also be done using sensors and

If there’s any problem with spazz

Check out the “Sliders of destruction” chapter. If that doesn’t help, try
changing weights. Attaching sliders in other directions, use other props. Don’t
just give up :- D

Chapter 5 – Fin tool

Fin tool principles

Fin tool, is to me, one the greatest addons I’ve ever used. I’ve always been
excited about building planes, and with fin tool it becomes much more realistic.
Fin tool simulates aerodynamics, which makes it possible to power and steer
for instance airplanes.

I’m not doing any step by step tutorial, on how to build a fin tool airplane.
There’s already a lot of tutorials out there, doing that. I’m introducing you to
fin tool, making you understand, how you on your own can use it.

The efficiency of the fin is determined by 2 things

1. The weight of the object

2. How much efficiency you apply in the menu


Finned surfaces

When making an airplane, you make flaps to steer the plane. Flaps is finned
surfaces. When a flap moves down, the wind will grab it, and move the wing
the flap is attached to up. And opposite. That’s also how normal planes

maneuver and steer. You also use fin tool on the wings, and some of the tail.
Not too much though, around 25 is enough.

When making flaps to steer an aircraft, you use wire hydraulics, and 2 dual
inputs. The dual inputs is used to give the hydraulics length values, which will
make the flaps go up/down

No lift, and lift. These to options are the most relevant, when making stuff like
airplanes. No lift, will be used for flaps, ailerons, etc. While lift, is used on for
instance wings. Lift means, that the faster the specific object goes, the more
lift the object receives. That means, that you actually has to go fast with the
plane, to take off.

Making a finned propeller

You can make a propeller like in real life. You won’t have to soft cut edges, like
in real life. But, you can create the windmill effect, pretty easily actually.

Here’s an example, of the windmill effect works. This is a propeller, it’s a phx
gear, with 2 finned sticks on it. Notice how the sticks are turned opposite, that
creates the wind-mill effect. You can see, which way the propeller would turn,
by looking at the fins direction.

If we imagine, that we pulled this finned propeller up, towards the sky. Why
would see that the wind would push the right stick first, and make it go right,
counterclockwise. Remember to adjust weight, so that the phx gear on the
image weighs more than the propellers themselves, else it will spazz.
Propellers are always “no-lift” finned

A propellers Power, is determined by 2 things

1. The fins weight

2. How much efficiency is applied

I say this again, the size of the propeller has NO influence, on the
power of the fin.

Fin tool in water

Fin tool is also great to power boats, making screws for instance.
Screws can be build on the windmill effect, like propellers can.

You can also steer for instance a boat in the water, making a
hydraulic controllable fin at the back of the boat. A “roar”.

Wind with fin tool

Fin tool has a checkbox called “wind”. When “wind” is enabled, the object will
act like it’s being thrown around in the wind. The wind changes direction, and
how fast and powerful the finned object moves in the wind, is again
determined by the weight, and efficiency of the fin.

This option, is VERY useful, when you want to make a sailship for instance. A
guy on YouTube named “dalesparrow” has made a great fin tool sailsboat, go
check that out!

My finned planes

On my YouTube channel:

You can checkout examples of how I use fin tool, to create my contraptions
and airplanes. The 2 I have on the channel, is both double winged. The
“palmZ” is really agile, because it’s very good balanced. Always remember to
keep things balanced on an aircraft, both with the fin and the weight tool.

The second version of my fin plane on there isn’t balanced as well. But It has
more steering options.

Go experiment with fin tool, see what you can use it for. In my opinion, a
contraption is always more cool, when realistically build.

Troubleshooting fin tool:

If your hydraulics are too weak on your fins, download viktor’s tool pack. In
that, there’s a tool that allows you to adjust the strength of a hydraulic.

Remember also to balance your aircraft, makes it fly more well. And adjust the
weight ratio, so the propeller wont spazz.

Ending words

I hope you enjoyed this book. And actually gained some

knowledge, that you can use for other contraptions, than these
mentioned in the book.

In general, be creative, don’t give up. Giving up in Gmod will

basically not allow any success at all, because many things really
require a couple of tries before you succeed.

Try new ways of building the same contraption, think smart, think
logical. In fact, you can be lucky enough to discover ways of
building a machine, that could be transferred to real life building.

You’re all welcome to contact me at my private e-mail address:

If you have any questions!

If you Garry, ever stumble over this book. I would first of all thank
you for the great content. But also, think further. Maybe, build this
game on another better physics engine, that’s able to deal with
Garry’s mod’s great opportunities.

Copyright, Anders Møller 2009 – 2010, All rights reserved.