VASANT R KOTHARI - has done

Master’s in Textiles Technology from

DKTE’s Textile and Engineering
Institute, Ichalkaranji (Shivaji
University, Kolhapur), Maharashtra.
He has also done Diploma in Export
Management (Apparel Export) from
the Indian Institute of Export
Management, and Garment Export
and Merchandising Management
from NIFT, Bangalore. Presently, he’s
working as an Assistant Professor in
Department of Fashion Technology,
NIFT, Bangalore. (This is one of the
inputs from the series of his articles)

Basics of knitting - Weft knitting

K nitted fabrics provide comfortable
wear to almost any style of garment.
Most knits contour to the body's
silhouette without restricting movement
because of its open structure. This makes
knit fabrics ideal for innerwear, bodywear
and sportswear garments. While many
variations of knit fabrics exist such that
used for hosiery, there are two basic types
of knit fabrics—weft knits and warp
knits—and it’s the direction in which the
yarns making up the fabric are looped that
determines which type of knit the fabric
is. From these two types of knit fabrics
come various subtypes that consumers
encounter in fabric stores and read within
garment descriptions.
Weft knitting is the simplest method of
converting a yarn into fabrics. Weft
knitting is a method of forming a fabric in
which the loops are made in horizontal way
from a single yarn and intermeshing of
loops take place in a circular or flat form
on a crosswise basis. In this method each
weft thread is fed, more or less, at right
angles to direction in which fabric is
formed. Each course in a weft knit builds
upon the previous knitted course. Most
of the weft knitting is of tubular form. It is
possible to knit with only one thread or
cone of yarn, though production demands
have resulted in circular weft knitting
machines being manufactured with upto
192 threads (feeders).
Common weft knits
In woven fabric structures, three weaves,
are called basic weaves, viz., plain, twill
and satin. In a similar way, in a weft knitting
structure, the following four structures are
considered as basic weft knit structure.
• Plain jersey fabric • Rib fabric
• Purl fabric • Interlock fabric
Plain jersey fabrics, also known as single
jersey, have an identifiable right/face and
wrong /back side. Other types are known
as double jersey, just as the name implies,
uses two sets of yarns on opposed needles
resulting in a heavier fabric that looks the
same on either side. Double knit fabrics have
little stretch; retain their shape and works
best for tailored garments. Each of these
fabric types is unique in appearance and
function.
Plain jersey fabric
Plain jersey fabric is the simplest weft
knitted structure that is possible to
produce with one set of needle. It is very
economical to produce. It is having definite
face and back and is most easily
recognised. Face is having all knit stitches
with smooth texture, while back is having
purl stitches with textured and mottled
appearance. These fabrics are produced
on flat as well as circular machines.
Characteristics of jersey knits
• Stretch crosswise and lengthwise
• Stretches more in the crosswise

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• Tend to run or ladder if stitch breaks
• Fabric less stable and curls when cut
• Special finishes counteract curling and
improve stability
• Highest machine productivity
End-uses of jersey knits
• Sheets • Sweaters • Terry robes
• T-shirts • Men’s underwear
• Dresses • Hosiery and pantyhose
• Fully fashion garments
Jersey knit variations
• Fleece • Intarsia • Jacquard knits
• Knitted terry • Knitted velour • Lisle
• Plaited knits • Silver-pile knits
Fig: Plain jersey fabric
Rib fabric
Rib fabric is a double jersey knitted fabric
with vertical rows (wales) of loops meshed
in the opposite direction to each other.
Simplest rib fabric is 1 x 1 rib having
alternate wales knitted to the front and
back. The ribs tend to close up to create a
double faced fabric, which has the same
appearance on both sides. Rib knits
fabrics are produced with the knitting
machines having two sets of needle,
normally positioned at rights angle to each
other.
Characteristics of rib knits
• Also called as double jerseys fabric
• Its reversible fabric • More elastic than
jersey knits • More thicker than jersey
knits • More stretch crosswise than
lengthwise • Edges do not curl • Very
stable • Running and laddering still a
problem • More expensive to produce
• Next highest machine productivity
End-uses of rib knits
• Collars and cuffs • Necklines • Bottom
edges of sweaters • Double knits
jackets •Knit hats • Men’s hosiery
Fig: Rib fabric
Purl fabric
Purl fabric has loop knitted to the front
and back on alternate courses, in contrast
to a rib fabric, which is knitted to the front
and back on alternate wales. A simple purl
fabric looks like somewhat like the back of
jersey knit on the both side of the fabric.
The simples purl fabric is known as 1 x 1
fabrics. Purl fabrics are made on knitting
machines called purl knit machines or links-
or-links machines.
Characteristics of purl knits
• Slowest of the knitting machines
• Both side similar appearance
• More expensive
• Good stretch in all direction
• Stretches out of shape easily
• Crosswise stretch less than a jersey knit
• Thicker than jersey knits
• Does not curl
• Can be unroved from either end
Fig: Purl fabric
KNITTING VIEWS/NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2010/
End uses for purl knits
• Infant and children’s wear
• Sweaters • Scarves
• Fancy garment parts
Interlock fabric
Interlock structure consists of two 1 x 1
rib fabrics knitted one after the other by
means of two separate yarns, which knits
alternately on the face and back of the
fabric and are interlocked together.
Interlock is a reversible fabric, which has
similar smooth appearance on each side.
Interlock is produce on a cylinder and dial
circular weft knitting machine, with
alternate long and short needles opposite
to each other on cylinder and dial.
Characteristics of interlock knits
• Reversible • It does not curl
• Firmer fabric • Less extensible as
compared to other jersey fabrics
• Heavier and thicker as compare to rib
• It unroves from the course knitted the
last • Costlier fabric • Better insulator
Fig: Interlock fabric
End-uses for interlock knits
• Outwear fabric • Dress wear
• Skirt • Blouses • T-shirts
Variables in weft knitted fabric
A great deal of variety may be created by
manipulating the following:
• Fibre content • Yarn type and twist
• Fabric count • Colouration • Finishes
and • Variations of tuck, knit and miss
stitches
(In the next issue, we would be discussing
about Plain jersey and rib fabrics.)
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