Multinationality and Corporate Ethics:
Codes of Conduct in the
Sporting Goods Industry
Rob van Tulder«
ERASMUS UNIVERSITY ROTTERDAM, ROTTERDAM SCHOOL OF MANAGEMENT
UNIVERSITY OF AMSTERDAM, FACULTY OF ECONOMICS
The international operations of
firms have substantial impact on
the formulation and implementa-
tion of business ethical principles
such as codes of conduct. The in-
ternational sporting goods indus-
try has been a pioneer in setting
up codes and thus provides much
InrRopuction
Controversies about international la-
bor standards have provoked a variety of
initiatives by companies, non-govern-
mental organizations, governments and
international organizations. These initi-
atives have included codes of conduct,
social labeling and investor initiatives
(CEP, 1999; ILO, 1998; OECD, 1999; Sa-
jhau, 1997; US DOL, 1997). These efforts
have reflected attempts to arrive at more
clarity concerning universal moral
norms and the fundamental rights and
Ans Kolk*
relevant experience. Different
sourcing strategies, degrees of
multinationality and national
backgrounds affect the contents of
codes. Moreover, international
(non-governmental) organizations
prove equally effective in trigger-
ing sophisticated codes.
duties of multinationals (Bowie, 1997:
Donaldson, 1989).
The internationalization of business
is, however, also accompanied by the
persistence of national traditions, cul-
tures and regulatory practices. This ap-
plies to business ethics (Langlois and
Schlegelmilch, 1990; Vogel, 1992), envi-
ronmental policies (Kolk, 2000) and in-
ternational innovation strategies (Pauly
and Reich, 1997). Managers must con-
tinue to consider divergent societal and
governmental pressures in home versus
*Rob van Tulder is professor in international public management at the Department of
Business-Society Management.
**Ans Kolk is associate professor in sustainable management at the Department of Accoun-
tancy and Information Management.
‘This paper
s one of the publications resulting from a joint, long-term project on multinationals
and corporate social responsibility. Mirjam van Leeuwen is gratefully acknowledged for her
contribution to cre
1g the datas
on which this paper is based. ‘The authors would also like
to thank the anonymous reviewers for their helpful comments.
JOURNAL OF InrenNaTionat, Business Stupies, 32, 2 (SECOND QuaRTeR 2001): 267-283 267Murinationatrry ano Corporate Ernics
host countries, especially when levels of
economic development differ, and de-
velop mechanisms, strategies and pro-
grams for addressing cross-cultural di-
versity and conflicts (Buller and Mc-
Evoy, 1999; Donaldson, 1996; Jackson,
1997, 2000).
‘The convergence of national and inter-
national strategic peculiarities has been
particularly pronounced in the interna-
tional sporting goods industry. The in-
dustry is largely dominated by six com-
panies equally distributed over the Tri-
ad: two from the US (Nike and Reebok),
two from Europe/Germany (Adidas and
Puma) and two from Japan (Asics and
Mizuno). The American companies were
much quicker in adopting corporate
codes of conduct. In this process, and in
the steps taken towards implementation
and monitoring, continued pressure by
trade unions, consumers, human rights
groups and the government played a
pivotal role. Other leading/dominant
companies in this industry, but with dif-
ferent nationalities and international
supply/production networks, followed
different routes.
This article analyses the evolution of
codes of conduct in the sporting goods
industry — considered one of the ‘best-
practice’ industries in the world as re-
gards the introduction of codes (Sajhau,
1997). The article examines monitoring
and compliance mechanisms included
in the codes adopted and proposed by
companies, societal organizations, busi-
ness support groups and international
organizations. To obtain insight into the
relative position of the industry, the
codes applying specifically to this sector
are compared to a reference set of 132
codes (cf. Kolk et al., 1999 for a detailed
account of this analysis and an overview
of the relevant literature). The compli-
ance likelihood and the stringency of a
corporate code still largely depend on
the interaction of various stakeholders in
its formulation and implementation. The
case of the sporting goods industry sug-
gests that this dynamic process is
heavily influenced by the domestic con-
text and the nature of the industry, but
also by the structure of companies’ inter-
national production networks (Ruigrok
and Van Tulder, 1995; Whitley, 1999).
A Cascape or Coves
In the 1990s, a wave of voluntary com-
pany codes appeared, triggered by atten-
tion for developments which posed great
legitimacy problems to firms, such as
(tacit) support for oppressive regimes,
international environmental damage or
outsourcing to countries with inferior la-
bor conditions, Well-known examples
are the problems associated with invest-
ing in Burma, human rights in Nigeria,
oil spills in Alaska, the Brent Spar affair
in the North Sea and sweatshops in Asia.
‘As a response, an increasing number
of companies started to draw up codes to
voluntarily commit themselves to spe-
cific norms and values. These codes have
been developed either individually or
under the co-ordination of business sup-
port groups, such as the International
Chamber of Commerce. Business initia-
tives interacted with the continued work
of international organizations, govern-
ments and social interest groups, result-
ing in a veritable ‘cascade of codes’
(OECD, 1999).
A prominent example of this particu-
lar interaction has been the sporting
goods industry, which consists of sports
equipment and apparel, and athletic
footwear. Throughout the 1990s, the sec-
tor bread a wave of codes drawn up by
different actors. Table 1 gives an over-
view of the relevant codes in the sporting
268,
Journal. oF IvrennaTionar Busivess SrupiesRos vAN Tunper, ANs Kouk
TaBLe 1
Overview or Copes or Connucr RELEVANT TO THE
Sportinc Goons InpustRy
‘Type of
‘Name of Gode of Conduct Year Actor
Reason for Adoption
ILO’s Tripastite Declaration of Principles 197910
concerning Multinational Enterprises
and Social policy
Nike's Code of Conduct & Memorandum 1992 company
of Understanding
Reebok’s Human Rights Production 1992 company
Standards
Athletic Footwear Association: AFA’s 1993 BSG
Statement of Guidelines on Practices
of Business Partners
Puma’s Human Rights Undertaking to 1995 company
Observe Universal Standards
Mizuno’s Code of Business Ethics Undated company
‘American Apparel Manufacturers Undated BSG
‘Association: AAMA’s Statement of
Guidelines
Fédération Internationale de Footbal: 1999 10
FIFA’s Code of Labor Practice
Apparel Industry Partnership: AIP’s 1997 BSG
Workplace Code of Gonduct,
World Federation of the Sporting Goods. 1997 10
Industry: WFSGI's Model Gode of
‘Conduct
Clean Clothes Campaign: CCC's Code of 1997 SIG.
Labor Practices
Council on Economics Priorities 1997 SIG
‘Accreditation Agency: CEPAA’s
SA8000
Nike's revised Gode of Gonduct 1998 company
Nike's revised Code of Gonduct 1998 company
Asian Human Rights Commission: 1998 SIG
AHRG’s Human Rights Charter
to regulate the conduct of
multinational corporations
a combination of external pressure
of SIGs and the modia, and
internal willingness to accept
responsibility
4 combination of external pressure
of SIGs and the media, internal
commitment to human rights,
and follow-up to Nike's
initiative
out of concern for the practices of
business partners, and political
and social issues in host
‘countries
to maintain its present
international standing and
business reputation
to express responsibility towards
society
to express commitment to fair and
rational practice of business
to recognize the responsibilities to
consumers and workers
to find a solution to the problem
of sweatshops and respond to
consumer concerns
to ensure that member companies
satisfy the highest ethical
standards in the global
marketplace
to improve the working
conditions in the garment
industry
to provide a standardized, global
system for companies interested
in assessing, monitoring and
influencing the social
accounitability of their suppliers
‘and vendors, as well as their
own facilities
to incorporate AIP standards in its
code
to incorporate Nike’s new labor
initiatives
to promote awareness and
realization of human rights in
the Asian region
2, No. 2, Seconp Quarter, 2001
269