Krakow

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
KRAKW
February - March 2011
N68
Poland - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - 5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
Sukiennice
The life & times of
Krakows Cloth Hall
Krakw for
lovers
Where to go romancing
When the outside world is touched by a frosty aura,
I fnd warmth in the special sales ofers.
I warm myself up with a hot cofee and comfort
my senses by spending time in the cinema.
Galeria Kazimierz
Krakw, 34 Podgrska Street, near Kotlarski Bridge
Opening hours:
Mon.- Sat.: 10 am - 10 pm, Sun.: 10 am - 8 pm
www.galeriakazimierz.pl
A union of fre and ice
my mood in winter colours
4
Krakw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Arrival & Transport 10
Tram Map 14
The Basics 16
Culture & Events 19
Where to Stay 25
Restaurants 44
Cafs 80
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 82
Clubs 88
Kazimierz Nightlife 92
History 94
Sightseeing 96
Essential Krakw 97
What to See 98
The Pope 104
The Pope Tour 105
Wawel 106
Kazimierz 108
Podgrze 112
Oskar Schindler 114
Nowa Huta 116
Further Afield
Salt Mines 120
Auschwitz 121
Tarnw 124
Leisure 128
Shopping 130
Directory 136
Maps & Index
City Centre Map 139
City Map 140
Nowa Huta Map 142
Regional Map 143
Street Register 144
Listings Index 145
Features Index 146
This issue sees Valentines Day come round and we have
collected together a selection of the special packages
being offered as well as giving you a few tips including how
to romance your other half with a padlock. See pages 52 &
65. Photo by Zygmunt Put, pl.wikipedia.org
Contents
One of Krakows signature buildings, Sukiennice (or Cloth
Hall) has been central to Krakow life since appearing in
its first guise during the 13th century. Now restored and
upgraded we take a look at its history and what to look
for inside.
6
Krakw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o.
1999-2011. Maps copyright cartographer.
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose
of review, without written permission from
the publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu
10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212
29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Walking through Planty recently I was struck again
at how beautiful and atmospheric this city is. Maybe
it is true that familiarity breeds contempt but I think
it was more a case of familiarity had caused me to
undervalue what a marvellous city this is. There are
photo opportunities on every corner both animate
and inanimate. The challenge of visiting every new bar,
hotel, cafe, club or restaurant seems to become more
difficult with every passing month as the development
of the city spirals seemingly out of control. So while it
may be a little presumptuous to say the country and
Krakow has never had it so good, it certainly feels
that way. As we discovered in our feature about the
Cloth Hall, the city seemed to have been one of the
most magnificent cities in the world during the middle
of the last millennium when trade routes from east
to west passed through here and Krakow was the
capital of a huge kingdom. Yet there is something
good going on for the locals at the moment and
nowhere can this be seen more than in the continued
investment in the service industry particularly the
aforementioned cafes, bars, clubs and restaurants. It
feels that every available nook and cranny have been
turned into something in the past couple of years
and that surely there cannot be room for anymore.
For you the visitor, this is good news in that there are
no shortage of places to relax plus ever improving
tourism infrastructure like the new Rynek Museum give
you even more to see and do. But with quantity comes
a higher likelihood that you will find something of lower
quality. And that is where this handy little guide comes
in. Unlike other publishers out there, In Your Pockets
are genuinely updated (not just reprinted) every two
months. Everything in an In Your Pocket guide has
been checked before it is included by our team of
researchers and writers. So what you have before you
is the result of 6 weeks of hard research and eleven
years of experience. We like to think that with each
issue the guide gets a bit better than before but youll
be the judge of that.
In the meantime enjoy your time in this incredible city
and please let us know what you think of it, us or the
guide at editor_poland@inyourpocket.com
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Katarzyna Burzyska,
ukasz Jankowski, Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, ukasz Jankowski,
Vaughan Elliott
Design Tom Haman
Photography In Your Pocket, Rentapocket
Cover In Your Pocket
Sales & Circulation
Director: Magorzata Drzszcz 606 749 676
Krakw/Katowice/Zakopane
Manager: Anna Szumniak 668 876 351
Warszawa/d
Manager: Marta Ciepy 606 749 643
Wrocaw/Pozna
Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 606 749 642
Gdansk/Bydgoszcz
Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 58 555 98 18
Publisher
WIYP Sp. z o.o.
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot
Company office & Accounts
Basia Olszewska
58 555 08 31
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Printing CGS
Published 20,000 copies,
6 times per year
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
ul. Wenecja 26/5,
31-117 Krakw, tel./fax 12 421 24 48
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl

The Bonerowski Palace is situated in the
heart of Krakow, on the corner of Sw. Jana
Street and the Old Market Square. It is
seated in a meticulously restored and richly
refurbished UNESCO edifice of the Middle
Ages. The elegant interior of the palace
contains both unique polychromes and
beams, gothic column, antique stone safe,
as well as modern forms and technologies,
serving to the safety of the guests. The
palace also prides itself on the Europe
longest, 22-meter long chandelier. The
palace windows face an incredible sight of
St. Mary Basilica, Drapers Hall (Sukiennice),
St.Wojciechs Church or the statue of Adam
Mickiewicz.
We invite you to a newly opened Ristorante
Milano, where you can choose from various
delicacies of Italian cuisine as well as a One
Lounge bar serving top cocktails. The
interiors of the cellars containing an
exclusive One Club, whose unique interiors,
music, and a wide variety of alcoholic
beverages or the one and only VIP Diamond
Room will meet even the most sophisticated
tastes.

THE BONEROWSKI PALACE
uI. w. Jana 1
te.: +48 12 374 13 00
www.paIacbonerowski.pI

ONE LOUNGE & ONE CLUB
Rynek GIwny 42
www.onecIub.pI
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8
Krakw In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
SUKIENNICE - THE CLOTH HALL
A huge excavation of the square started in 2005 and which
eventually took over 5 years to complete is now thankfully
over with the finds now on display in the excellent Rynek
Underground exhibition. And also fully visible once more
is one of the citys defining landmarks the Cloth Hall or
Sukiennice.
Early times
There is proof that a structure or structures of some sort
have existed on this very spot since the mid 13th century. The
original structures would probably have been two rows of stone
trading stalls which would have formed a street between them
right in the middle of the square. Around 1300 a roof would
have been placed over these stalls creating the first Cloth Hall
style structure. This basic structure would have survived up
until the mid 14th century when the Polish king Casimir the
Great allowed construction of a hall for trading and the Cloth
Hall became the centre of the trade of many commodities such
as wax, spices, leather and silks as well as local goods such
as textiles, lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines.
As can be seen in the Rynek Underground exhibition, the area
around where the Cloth Hall stands today was a bustling, crowded,
noisy centre of commerce with merchants passing through the
city and local trades such as cloth makers and metal workers
going about their business. It appears that the development of
the area during the 14
th
century resulted in the original stone stalls
becoming the basements of the new developments. Previously
refuse was allowed to pile up where after it would be covered in
sand which in turn gradually raised the ground level in stages.
This method of dealing with refuse was one of the reasons such
marvellous discoveries were made by archaeologists as they dug
downwards into the various layers of the square.
When in the 14th century, King Casimir the Great allowed for
the structure to take the form of a huge hall, more and more
stalls sprang up around it. This was to become the centre
of trade for Krakws merchants, bakers, cloth makers and
fishmongers, and technically one of the worlds first, if not
the first, shopping malls. The Gothic construction was 108
metres long by 10 metres wide with two rows of stalls and
with arched arcades built at the north and south ends the
structure had the basis of its current shape. This survived
until the mid-16
th
century when a fire destroyed it. A new
structure was quickly built and underwent a Renaissance
facelift overseen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574) and
featured brilliantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-Polish
sculptor Santi Gucci which were added to the faade. At
this time it was probably the most magnificent building in
the whole of Krakow.
At its peak around 500 years ago, the city of Krakow would
have been one of the most magnificent in the world. A royal
city until King Sigismund III Vasa moved his court to Warsaw
in 1596, wars and political interference from her the countrys
neighbours left Krakow in a pretty decrepit state by the time
it was decided to rebuild the Cloth Hall in the late 19
th
century.
The New Sukiennice
By this time (the mid 1870s) Poland had been partitioned for
nearly a century. Krakow formed part of Austro-Hungarian
controlled Galicia but at this time there was something of
a renaissance going on. During the period 1875-79 many
of the outbuildings were torn down and it was then that the
neo-Gothic colonnades and outside arcades were added
by Tomasz Pryliski, a student of Jan Matejko. The interior
was converted into a series of wooden stalls while upstairs
rooms were built to house the first Polish National Museum.
On October 7
th
1879 the Krakow City Council voted to give half
of the upper floor of the Cloth Hall for the creation of the first
Polish National Museum. It quickly became the focal point for
a huge celebration of Polish patriotism attracting Poles from
all three partitions as well as those from exile abroad. Henryk
Siemiradzki, the Polish artist, arrived from Rome and donated his
painting Neros Torches to act as a touch paper for the further
development of the museum. This duly became the first exhibit
in the newly created museum. Over the past 130 odd years the
museum has, with the temporary interruption of two world wars,
continued to display permanent and temporary exhibitions and
today is home to the National Museums Gallery of 19
th
Century
Polish Art. It still features Siemiradzkis work today.
The 20
th
century saw ongoing development of the building
with the most signi ficant work being carried out in the
late 1950s when much of the 19
th
century interior was
replaced. By the start of the 21
st
century, however, the
building, particularly the display areas inside, was in poor
condition and unprepared for the demands of a 21
st
century
museum or shopping area. When the decision was made to
start excavating the square, the opportunity was taken to
modernise the Cloth Hall as well.
Sukiennice today
Started in August 2006 and lasting over 4 years, the
building was given a complete re-modelling with lifts, air-
conditioning and new natural and artificial lighting installed
while kilometres of electrical cables and plumbing were
replaced. Along with that space within the building was
re-worked creating over 1,000m2 of new space above the
traders stalls. Where once were sloped attics, you will now
find terraces overlooking the square below and St. Marys
opposite. To take advantage of them and the adjacent cafe
(open in season only) pay a visit to the Gallery of 19
th
Century
Polish Art where you can pick up audio guides in a number of
languages and which has an adult version and a version for
children. There is also a snazzy iphone app which you can
download for free on itunes (search Nowy Wymiar Sukiennice)
which brings the gallery to life. Alternatively you can hire an
iphone and app there.
Having visited the Gallery upstairs or the Rynek Underground
museum bel ow ground, take a break by vi si ti ng the
Noworolski Cafe for coffee. This place has been here since
the beginning of the 1900s and still carries a hint of the
atmosphere it must have held when Lenin, a Krakow resident
in his younger years, visited here to take coffee. And round
it off by picking up a souvenir or gift in the arcade within the
Cloth Hall. Youll find all sorts of handicrafts, amber and other
jewellery at surprisingly reasonable prices. And youll have
the experience of shopping in what is basically a 700-year
old shopping mall.
Katarzyna Kozakiewicz
10
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
11
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
February - March 2011 krakow.inyourpocket.com
By Train
Krakws main rail way
station, Dworzec Gwny,
is conveniently situated
at the northern tip of the
Old Town, just a couple
of mi nutes wal k from
ci vi l i sati on. From the
platform si mpl y foll ow
the herd down the stairs
and youll find yourself in
the bowels of the main
station building, in one of two tunnels. Here youll find several
ATMs (bankomat) in addition to the ATM in the main hall, and
a currency exchange (kantor) booth (Open 08:00 - 22:00).
Both sections of the station, the two subterranean tun-
nels and the main hall - have left luggage lockers. A large
piece of luggage will cost 9z for one day, and a small one
6z. Make sure you have change. Payphones can be found
dotted around, though you will need to acquire a phonecard
from a newsagent to use them. Stepping onto the square
in front of the train station youll see Galeria Krakowska to
your right, a bus and tram stop on the left side of the square
and straight across youll find a taxi rank. It is only about
a six minute walk to Rynek Gwny from the train station,
arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe
and highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived.
Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels
Hotel and following the crowds through the underpass to
the other side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to
the majority of Krakws hostels, hotels and night life; bear
right, make a left on Floriaska Street and youre on the path
of kings to the market square. Youve arrived. Now how to
escape. Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by
their yellow timetables; arrivals boards (przyjazdy) are the
white ones. Trains run from Krakw Gwny to most major
Polish cities, with almost hourly trains to Warsaw between
06:00 and 20:00. To check the times visit the Polish railways
website at www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has limited but effective
English language functionality. Tickets for internal trips can
be purchased at any counter in the main station hall, and can
even be bought in advance. Indeed, if you want a seat on a
particular train it is best to book ahead. International tickets
are bought at Kasa Zagraniczna windows 9 and 10. If in a
rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the
conductor, but expect a surcharge. Note that tickets for the
shuttle service to Krakw Balice airport, which runs every 30
minutes, can be purchased on-board the train for no extra
fee. The state-owned Polish rail network PKP runs several
types of train. EIC (Express Inter City) and IR (Inter Regio)
trains are the fastest, newest, most comfortable and most
expensive of the lot, and require a reservation which means
arbitrarily paying an extra fee. Prices are still cheap compared
to western rails with the trip to Warsaw on an express train
costing about 40 for the three-hour journey. Cheapskates
looking to cut costs can opt for the markedly cheaper Tanie
Linie Kolejowe (TLK) or Osobowy (os.) trains; you will pay
buttons for the privilege, but getting to your destination will
take twice as long (if not longer) and is guaranteed to try
your good humour. Polish trains are generally on time and
safe these days; horror stories have abated, but, nonethe-
less, travellers on overnight trains to Prague or Berlin should
carefully guard their belongings.
Main Train Station (Dworzec Gwny) E-1, Pl. Jana
Nowaka- Jezioraskiego 3, tel. (+48) 197 57, www.
rozklad.pkp.pl.QOpen 05:00-23:00. Domestic tickets are
also available from the ticket office in the train station tunnel
which is open 24hrs.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of di fferent
traffic and, most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver
behavior result in the common sight of mangled wrecks
around the country. While the road quality issue is being
addressed with EU directives and funding, the size of the
countrys road network means that it will still be years
before results are seen in many places. Almost all roads
outside of urban areas are a single lane in each direction,
meaning traffic is inevitably bogged down by the fleet of
lorries that traverse Poland as well as the routine family in
a horse-cart. This results in impatient drivers overtaking
each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid
oncoming traffic. Be cautious and keep a safe distance
between you and the vehicle in front.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur-
ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2% is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your license and
passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time be-
ing theres only one major highway leading into Krakow via
Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesnt come free.
An 8z toll is paid when you enter and again when you exit
the motorway. Still, its one of the best stretches of road in
the country until the bottleneck begins outside Krakw near
Wieliczka. Driving around the city is incredibly frustrating
with constant roadwork being done, one-way streets and
seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive down:
violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine are in-
credibly high, whether youve realized your infraction or not.
Krakws road network is not at all adequate for the volume
of cars on its roads and parking is yet another challenge.
To say nothing of horse-drawn carriages full of tourists and
trams, the lack of bicycle paths in the city centre also means
sharing the street with unwieldy bicycles above the laws of
the road, and the fact that theyre getting from point A to B
twice as fast as you is yet another smack in the face. Put
it all together and we recommend you ditch your vehicle in
favour of public transportation at the first opportunity. Car
crime is not unheard of and youll be safest leaving your
ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street
parking is available under the large parking signs on the
sidewalk and youll have to buy a pass from the neon-bibbed
warden patrolling the area, though parking machines are
now beginning to appear in some places. Depending on the
location, the cost of street parking is between 3 and 6z.
Areas where parking is available are also marked on the
map in the back of this guide.
Guarded Parking D-3, ul. Westerplatte 18 (entrance
from ul. Zyblikiewicza 1), tel. (+48) 12 421 25 60.
Guarded Parking J-1, ul. Kamienna 2-4 (entrance from
Al. Sowackiego), tel. (+48) 12 633 69 81.
By Bus
International buses arrive and depart from the bus terminal
(Dworzec Autobusowy) behind the train station at ul. Bosacka
(E-1). Here youll find an exchange bureau (kantor) open
08:00-17:00, as well as an ATM (bankomat). Payphones
can be found in the main building, and you can buy phone
cards or SIM cards for your mobile from the newsagents.
Lockers for left luggage cost 4-12z (depending on size) for
24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is
closed between 23:00 and 05:00. Tunnels connect the bus
and train stations. Still the best way to get into town, with or
without getting lost, is to make a right from the bus station
into the train station, walk past the platforms and follow the
ascendant ramp back into daylight. Cut through the main
ticket hall of the train station, cross the square in front of
Galeria Krakowska and take the underpass into the Planty.
Congrats, youre in the Old Town.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.
These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level with
tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus station.
For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.pl which is now
in English. For buses to Wieliczka and Auschwitz (Owicim)
you are likely to travel by mini-bus. These leave from the lower
level and are generally run by independent small businesses.
Tickets for these crowded trips are available directly from the
driver. First come/most aggressive in the queue, first served.
Jordan D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60 91, www.
jordan.pl. English-speaking tour company with buses avail-
able for hire which also acts as a vendor for other companys
scheduled bus services. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
Krakw Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda.
krakow.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 06:00-21:00.
By Plane
Some 17km west of the city centre, John Paul II Krakw Balice
Airport (Port lotniczy w Krakowie Balicach imienia Jana Pawa
II) is small, modern and easy to navigate, though amenities
are limited. Here youll find a 24hr currency exchange offices
and a clutch of ATMs (bankomat), as well as a helpful tourist
information point. There is a left luggage facility at the airport,
and note that youll either need coins or buy a phonecard with
a chip (karta telefoniczna) from one of the newsagents to use
the payphones. The best way to get to and from the airport
is by train. From the airport, a free bus directly outside both
the international and domestic terminals takes passengers
the short distance to the train-stop and can also be used
for travelling between the two terminals. Train tickets are
purchased from the conductor on board the train, and cost
10z. [If leaving from Krakw Gowny train station, look for
departures (odjazdy) to Balice Airport and buy your ticket
on board for no extra fee.] For those who cant be bothered,
taxis stand outside the main entrance to the airport and
should charge between 65-75z to make the journey into the
city. The price goes up by 50% between 22:00 and 06:00.
John Paul II Krakow Balice International Airport
(Port Lotniczy Krakw Balice im. Jana Pawa II)
ul. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00, www.
krakowairport.pl.
Krakow Shuttle D-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 20/6, tel.
(+48) 12 633 01 25, www.krakowshuttle.com. Good
value Krakw and Katowice airport transfers, as well as
tours of hard to reach sights in and around the city (Wieliczka,
Auschwitz). QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Tomasz Chorwat,
pl.wikipedia.org
0800 66 66 66
(TOLL-FREE, STATIONARY LINE ONLY)
or +48 12 266 66 66
(FROM MOBILES WITHIN POLAND)
The Pol i sh rai l net-
work is coming in for
some much needed
i nvest ment af t er
years of neglect and
while track improve-
ments are ongoi ng
(and delay inducing),
there is now a mas-
si ve stati on mod-
erni zati on program
underway which will see 40 stations either modernized
or rebuilt at a cost of 980 million zloty over 5 years.
Krakw Gwny is one of the three projects which is
recei ving financing from the EU and the 63 million
PLN investment will see a brand new transport hub
created. Incorporating an underground station in the
general area of the current platforms the new station
will connect train, local and national buses, airport
shuttle trains and local tram services under one roof.
A new 12,000m2 ticket hall will be created as well as
new waiting areas, cafe, restaurants and passenger
services points such as tourist information. Fully ac-
cessible to the disabled and with a hi-tech monitoring
system the project is pencilled in for completion in the
second quarter of 2012.
Lovers of the old train station need not fret. The local gov-
ernment are in talks to take over the Rosenbaums build-
ing from the train company and convert it into a gallery.
Krakw Train Station
www.pkp.pl
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
13
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Car Rental
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign license or international driving permit. [Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify
the Vienna Convention (America, Australia) cannot legally
drive on their licenses and run the risk of hassle from the
police.] Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a
rental car; ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).
Acecar C-3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36
51, www.acecar.pl. Large selection of cars. Competitive prices. Insurance and unlimited mileage included in rental
price. Friendly, reliable service. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Sat,
Sun Open on request.
Hertz H-3, Al. Focha 1 (Cracovia Hotel), tel. (+48) 12
429 62 62, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at Balice Airport,
tel. 12 285 50 84. Q Open 08:00-16:00. Sat, Sun open
on request.
Sixt ul. Kpt. Medweckiego 1 (Krakow Airport), tel.
(+48) 12 639 32 16, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Europcar I-1, ul. Szlak
2, tel. (+48) 12 633 77
73, www.europcar.pl.
Offering both short and long term rental options with 8
different categories of car available for your individual
needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to
your specific requirements. Europcar is present at all
Polish airports including Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 257 79
00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
J o k a D - 2 , u l .
Zaci s z e 7 (3r d
floor, room 7), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53
68, www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars including
Opel Astra 2, BMW, Subarus up to the spacious Mer-
cedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped
with power steering. Satellite navigation systems are
also available. Special rates offered to those who order
through the Joka website. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat
09:00-12:00. Sunday open on request.
Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7,
tel. (+48) 509 58 88 60, www.
dragonvip.pl. A wi de choi ce of
vehicles from small cars like the
Peugeot 207, through mid-size like
the Peugeot 308 to more exclusive
vehicles. It is also possible to hire a
car with a driver. Delivery and collection of cars in Krakw
is free. GPS is also free of charge. Q Open 08:00-18:00,
Sat 08:00-14:00. Sun Open on request.
While Krakow has no metro system it does have an integrated
bus and tram system which runs from 05:00-23:00, with night
buses continuing after that. Get tickets from the handy ticket
machines at major tram stops or onboard newer trams (there
is an English-language option), or from the driver (immediately
on boarding in older trams where only the single trip ticket is
available). Alternatively keep an eye out for Sprzeda biletw
MPK signs in kiosk windows.
A 15 minute ticket is available costing 1.80z. By our estima-
tion, this is about the time it should take to go 5 or 6 stops,
though its hard to know with heavy traffic sometimes clog-
ging up the tram lanes. If going more than 5 stops we recom-
mend you purchase the old standard fare ticket of 2.50z,
though this does not allow passengers to change trams; if
you intend to change trams you need to buy a one hour fare for
3.10z. 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, 7-day and monthly passes
are also available. Weekend family passes for 10.40z are
another option, giving you and yours (minimum one adult
and one child under 16) unlimited travel on all day-routes,
or consider the Krakw Tourist Card (see Basics), which
includes unlimited free travel on trams and buses amongst
its benefits. Note that ISIC or other non-Polish student ID is
valid for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your ID.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately
on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board.
Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing
out fines to those without valid or proper tickets. They are
obliged to carry ID and to show it upon request.
MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. Jana Broka
3 (agiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 191 50, www.mpk.
krakow.pl.
Public Transport
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around, but beware
of the cowboys sometimes waiting outside the train station
and some clubs. Make sure you choose a clearly marked
cab with a company name and phone number displayed and
a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now
legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journeys end
further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. There is
a taxi rank across the square from the main train station on
ul. Pawia (D-2) or walk up the stairs from the platforms to find
reliable Radio Taxi 19191 on the rooftop parking lot. Expect
to pay 7z plus about 2.30z per kilometre. At night expect to
pay up to 50% more for the pleasure. Whether or not to tip
your taxi driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles
do not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip and
thereby, if youre Polish, the driver may not expect one. But
double standards being what they are, its anticipated that
foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is appropriate,
or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.
Barbakan Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.
barbakan.krakow.pl.
City Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 21, www.citytaxi.
krakow.pl.
Euro Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 64, www.eurotaxi.
krakow.pl.
Mega Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
Radio Taxi tel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radio-
taxi919.pl.
Radio Taxi Wawel tel. (+48) 12 196 66, www.
waweltaxi.pl.
Taxis
Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel.
(+48) 601 20 07 02, www.
avis.pl. Internationally trusted
service offering a range a vehi-
cles from the Opel Corsa to luxury mini-vans. Located here
near the train station and also at Krakw Balice airport (ul.
Kapitana Medweckiego 1, open 08:00-22:00). Q Open
09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Sun open by request only.
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
15
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Miejskie Przedsibiorstwo Komunikacyjne S.A. w Krakowie
http://www.mpk.krakow.pl
Infolinia - 12.19150
Cracow tramlink network map Straenbahn-Netz Krakau
PLAN KOMUNIKACJI TRAMWAJOWEJ KRAKOWA
Tram
16
BASICS
17
BASICS
Jaywalking
A peculiar sight you might come across, particularl y i f
you are from a country which has no (or doesnt respect)
jaywalking laws, is that of a crowd of people standing
obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change.
This peculiarity has extra effect i f you are aware of how
little Poles respect the rules of the road in a vehicle, where
it often feels like a survival of the fittest. The reason for
the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that the
local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a
50zl fine for crossing a road at a place where no crossing
is marked or a 150zl fine when the walk light is red. And
dont think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You
are subject to the law too and your non-residency means
you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful chaps
will even accept foreign currency).
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100z notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food
franchise and bar will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change
for such moments.
Customs
I f you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now
take 10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of
beer. Most countries will not allow more than 800 ciga-
rettes from Poland. A work of art produced before 1945
is classi fied as a cultural good and must be authorised
before it can leave the country. I f the gallery or shop cant
supply the zawiadczenie (permission) when you buy the
artwork, check with the Wojewdzki Konserwator Zabytkw
(Regional Curators Office). I f a book was printed before
1945, youll need permission from the National Library to
take it out of Poland.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore i f you are coming
from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a
plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home
though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with
your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an
electrical store if they cant provide a converter themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using
a separate line speci fi call y desi gned for forei gners in
distress: dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599
999 from a mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist
season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list
of which can also be found in the Directory. If its a financial
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out
for the Western Union logo.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian exclave of Ka-
liningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Krakw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2009)
Poland - 38.135.876
Warsaw - 1.709.781
Krakw - 754.624
d - 747.152
Wrocaw - 632.162
Pozna - 557.264
Gdask - 455.581
Katowice - 309.621
Sopot - 38.821
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Twin Towns
Bordeaux, Bratislava, Curitiba, Cuzco, Edinburgh, Fes,
Florence, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Innsbruck, Kyiv, La
Serena, Leipzig, Leuven, Lviv, Milan, Nuremberg, Orl-
ans, Pecs, Rochester (NY), San Francisco (CA), Seville,
Solothurn, Vilnius, Zagreb
Basic Data
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece
of plastic that allows you free
travel on trams and buses, day
and night. The best bit is free
entry to 30 Krakw museums - an impressive savings
for the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are
available, priced at 50z and 65z respectivel y and
they are valid until midnight on the day indicated on the
reverse. Every venue listed in our guide which accepts
the Krakw Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist
Card symbol Y. Available at all tourist information
of fi ces, for a full list of vendors and benefi ts visi t
www.krakowcard.com.
Tourist Card
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
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Internet Cafes
Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. (+48)
12 397 80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Seven PCs
complete with everything you need to keep in touch.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Nandu B-3, ul. Wilna 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26,
www.nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 -
23:00. 5z for first hour, 4z per hour thereafter. Printing
and cd-burning available.
Post
A bureaucratic nightmare buried under paperwork riddled
with illegible stamps and seals, there is no indication that
Polands postal service - Poczta Polska - will be automated
or computerised during our lifetimes. There can be no
doubt that the post office is one of the most frustrating
places to be a foreigner in Poland, as youre guaranteed to
not understand a damn thing happening there. Your best
ally is the person in line next to you; if theres one person
in the room who speaks not a word of English, its the
qualified clerk at the service window. Also, dont expect any
signs to feature English translations, though all paperwork
has been mystifyingly translated into French (and only
French). When you get to the head of that insufferably
long queue, dont be surprised to be sent to another or
back to the end, paperwork in hand. The declaration that
your nicely wrapped parcel is somehow unacceptable is
another popular reason why you might find yourself ready
to go postal, though there are many others.
If sending something of any monetary or sentimental
value, please, make sure you do so by using priority mail
or better; magic word: Priorytet. Choosing the cheapest
overseas option available will ensure your package is
opened before it arrives and the contents may or may
not be removed. Were not exaggerating.
There are many post offices around Krakw, with Poczta
Gowna at the corner of ul. Westerplatte and Wielopole
(D-4) being the largest and most incomprehensible. All
post offices close early on Saturday, if open at all, and
all will be closed Sunday. Good luck, gringo.
Mailboxes Etc. A-1, ul. Karmelicka 55, tel. (+48)
12 631 20 66, www.mbe.com.pl. A great alterna-
tive to the post office, this city centre shop offers UPS
and FedEX shipping services. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Poczta Gwna D-4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48)
12 421 03 48, www.poczta-polska.pl. Krakws main
and most central post office. Packages are sent from a
separate room to the left of the main entrance. You do
not need to take a queue ticket to buy stamps (windows
2-14) and if disabled you get a free pass to window 9.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Public Phones
After being virtually wiped out, pay phones in Krakw
have made an inexplicable comeback. As such, many
are new and actually work. Almost all of them require
you use a phone card with an electronic chip, which can
be obtained at most kiosks, but not all, so it may take
some perseverance to track one down. The magic words
are Prosz kart telefoniczn. These cards run down
very fast if you are calling cell phones, so if you plan on
making many such calls, get the biggest one you can
find. Ring-a-ling.
Mail & Phones
PLN US$ Euro Pound
2.86z = $1 3.88z = 1 4.51z = 1
1 z $0.35 0.26 0.22
2 z $0.70 0.52 0.44
3 z $1.05 0.77 0.67
4 z $1.40 1.03 0.89
5 z $1.75 1.29 1.11
6 z $2.10 1.55 1.33
7 z $2.45 1.80 1.55
8 z $2.80 2.06 1.77
9 z $3.15 2.32 2.00
10 z $3.50 2.58 2.22
20 z $6.99 5.15 4.43
50 z $17.48 12.89 11.09
100 z $34.97 25.77 22.17
150 z $52.45 38.66 33.26
200 z $69.93 51.55 44.35
250 z $87.41 64.43 55.43
1 000 z $349.65 257.73 221.73
Quick Currency Convertor
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of 25th January 2011
based on 1 = 3.88z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 8.70 z 2.24
Snickers 1.39 z 0.36
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 22.00 z 5.67
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.79 z 0.72
0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00 z 1.80
Loaf of white bread 2.99 z 0.77
20 Marlboros 11.20 z 2.89
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 4.89 z 1.26
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.50 z 0.64
Market Values
18
BASICS
19
CULTURE & EVENTS
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks
and anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors
will often provi de better value than the banks in your
home country or the ATM although for obvious reasons
be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and
close to tourist sights. Shopping around will reward you
with the best rate.
Si nce EU ascensi on and becomi ng a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland and especiall y Krakw have
been on the rise, making the country l ess of a bargain
than i t was fi ve years ago. Having sai d that, however,
pri ces for food, dri nk, cul tural venues and transport
still remain comparabl y cheap in contrast to Western
Europe. A ti cket to the theatre or cinema will rarel y cost
more than 20z whil e admission to most museums costs
around 5-10z.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul
II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is
beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can
understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits of
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Tourists should remember while visiting Krakws many
churches that these arent museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
Safety
In general Krakw is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers
should be on guard against pickpockets; if youre in a bar or
a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not
inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by
car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes
connecting Krakw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette
or a sleeper cabin. Perhaps the biggest danger in Krakw
is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans who can
be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away. Finally, be
suspicious of young women who take an overactive interest
in you and suggest taking you to some dodgy nightclub not
in this guide where after the fact you will be intimidated into
paying for vastly overpriced drinks by thuggish bouncers;
its happened.
Toilets
Generally speaking, toilets in Poland come marked with a
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit
is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge a
nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much
cash youve already spent in the establishment. This is a
practice also used in train stations and most public conve-
niences. Keep small change handy.
Toilet C-3, Rynek Gwny 1 (Cloth Hall).
Toilet C-5, Wawel Hill.
Toilet D- 6, Pl. Nowy.
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have forgotten
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
Basic pronunciation of consonants
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think youve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cze (cheshch) hi/bye
dzie dobry ( jen do-bri) good morning/
afternoon
dobry wieczr (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
tak (tahk) yes
nie (nyeh) no
prosz (prosheh) please
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dzikuje ( jen-koo-yeh) thank you
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
kocham ci (koham tshe) I love you
Mam na imi (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie s toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
Czy mwi pan/pani
po angielsku?
(che moovee
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
Nie mwi po
polsku
(nyeh moovyeh po
polskoo)
I dont speak Polish
Prosz to napisa (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down
Czy mona tu pali (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Can I smoke here?
Jedno piwo
poprosz
(yedno peevo poh-
prosheh)
One beer please
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
2 dwa dva
3 trzy tshi
10 dziesi jayshench
General
Airport lotnisko
Train station dworzec pkp
Bus station dworzec pks
Right/left prawo/lewo
One ticket to jeden bilet do
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
Language Smarts
Polands most historic city, currently weighing in with 11
major theatres and 30 museums, Krakow has always
been the Cultural Capital of Poland, and bore that
banner on behal f of all Europe back in 2000. Galleries
include Bunkier Sztuki (the Art Bunker), Starmach and
Pauza. Classical music fans will be spoilt for choice at the
Philharmonic and Krakow Opera, while those who favour
something more contemporary should beat a track to
Alchemia and Ptasiek. The cultural depth of the city is
easily revealed by the range of its festival calendar, with
annual standouts like the Street Theatre Festival, Jewish
Culture Festival and the Krakw Film Festival, offset by
more eccentric endeavours like the annual Dragon and
Dachsund Parades (respectively), the Pierogi Festival
and Juwenalia (student mayhem!). For the latest Krakw
events information make www.krakow.inyourpocket.com
the first place you visit.
Cinemas
ARS Cinema C-3, ul. w. Jana 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 41
99, www.ars.pl.Q Box office open from 30 minutes before
the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last showtime.
Tickets 12-19z.
Cinema City J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 12 254 54 00, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox of-
fice open 10:00 - 22:45. Tickets 15-28z.
Kijw.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 00 33, www.kijowcentrum.pl.QBox office open
09:00 - 23:00. Tickets 14-22z.
Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 01 79, www.kinoagrafka.pl.QBox office open from
30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 5-16z.
Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48)
12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl.QBox office
open 30 minutes before first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 11-19z.
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.QOpen 08:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Dworek Biaoprdnicki Cultural Centre (Centrum
Kultury Dworek Biaoprdnicki) ul. Papiernicza 2
(Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 420 49 50, www.dworek.
krakow.pl.QBox office open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 -
15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum Spoecznoci
ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel.
(+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org.Q Open 10:00
- 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galleries
Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12
422 10 52, www.bunkier.com.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3z.
International Cultural Centre (Midzynarodowe
Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12
424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z.
Jan Fejkiel Gallery C- 4, ul. Grodzka 65, tel.
(+48) 12 429 15 53, www.f ej ki el gal l er y.com.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Cl osed Sun.
Admi ssi on free.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriaska
18/5, tel. (+48) 602 60 06 79, www.galeriapauza.
pl.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
Polonia House (Wsplnota Polska) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 43 55, www.swp.krakow.
pl.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal-
lery.com.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Space Gallery B-2, ul. w. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 94, www.spacegallery.com.pl.Q Open 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Sun Closed.
Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12
656 43 17, www.starmach.eu.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Museums
Tatra Museum Zakopane, ul. Krupwki 10, tel. (+48)
18 201 52 05, www.muzeumtatrzanskie.pl. A good
introduction to both the culture and wildlife of the region,
Zakopanes charming Tatra Museum features two floors of
diversions including a superb collection of folk art, recreations
of traditional highland dwellings, rather a lot of stuffed brown
bears and much more besides. Upstairs find fossils and a
small natural history section of glass cases full of preserved
animals that live in the area. In Polish only, its still worth a
visit. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00-15:00, Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 7/5.50z.
Opera Stages
Krakw Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz
48, tel. (+48) 12 421 16 30, www.opera.krakow.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before the
performance. Tickets 25-140z.
Philharmonic
Krakw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)
B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance.
Tickets 10-40z.
Theatre Stages
Groteska Theatre A-2/3, ul. Skarbowa 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 48 22, www.groteska.pl.QBox office open:
08:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before
performance. Tickets 14-50z.
Stary Teatr (Narodowy Stary Teatr) C- 3, ul.
Jagielloska 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 85 66, www.stary-teatr.
pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and two
hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-50z. Y
Teatr Nowy E-7, ul. Gazowa 21, tel. (+48) 790 451
322, www.teatrnowy.com.pl.QBox office open 2 hours
before the performance. Tickets 20-30z.
City Information Point (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421
77 87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who can
tell you whats going on and who can sell you tickets as
well. It publishes Karnet (4z), a comprehensive monthly
listing of cultural events in Polish and English, as well as
the free yearly Karnet with an overview of major events
in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Information & Tickets
Concerts
01.02 Tuesday - 31.03 Thursday
Classical, opera, film & tango - The best con-
certs in Cracow
C-3, St. Wojciech Church, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48)
510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com. The Royal
Chamber Orchestra is made up of outstanding musicians,
many Krakow Academy of Music alumni. St Adalberts is
said to be is the oldest church in Krakow and, thanks to
its baroque dome, provides unique acoustics. Q Concerts
every day at 19:00. Tickets 65z. Available before the event.
01.02 Tuesday
Czarno - Czarni
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. When, in 1996, punk rock-
ers Big Cyc recorded a cover of Iggys Passenger with guest
singer Jarek Janiszewski, erstwhile leader of indie group Biel-
izna, the Czarnos were born. More pop than punk they have
veered in styles, even taking in swing along the way for their
third album. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 18/25z.
Available soon at Hard Rock Cafe (Open 10:00-24:00).
02.02 Wednesday - 31.03 Thursday
Chopin Concerts in the Legendary Wierzynek
C-3, Wierzynek Restaurant, Rynek Gwny 15, tel.
(+48) 602 63 60 36, www.newculture.pl. These spe-
cial events take place every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday,
Saturday and Sunday and is a fine opportunity to celebrate
Chopin Year in style. There are recitals by gifted members
of the Cracow Music Academy, many of whom are laureates
from international piano contests. The programme is as
varied as you like, approaching the great mans work from a
number of perspectives. There are Nocturnes summoning
up a Poland divided between other empires, Etudes and
Mazurkas reflecting the sounds of the battle fields and finally
the noble Polonais. A must for all fans. Q Concerts start at
19:00. Tickets 60/40z. Premium 145z. Available at City
Information Point, C-3, ul. w. Jana 2 (Open 10:00 - 18:00).
02.02 Wednesday - 31.03 Thursday
Chopin Concerts in the Palaces of Krakw
C-3, Bonerowski Palace, ul. w. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 510
32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com. Enjoy the music of
Polands greatest composer, Fryderyk Chopin, as performed by
pianists Piotr Szczepanik, Dobrochna Krwka, Witold Wilczek
and Kazuko Tsuji. Everyday, except Tuesday, it takes place in
the Pod Baranami Palace, B-3, Rynek Gowny 27. Come along
and enjoy a concert every day in December and January with
a glass of wine included in the price. Q Concerts every day
at 19:00. Tickets 50z. Available at City Information Point, ul.
w. Jana 2, C-3 (Open 10:00 - 18:00) and before the concert.
02.02 Wednesday
Muniek
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Although this will be a solo
concert by T Love front man Muniek Staszczyk, it is for fans
of the original material. The eponymous debut album of
Muniek was produced and composed with one-time T Love
guitarist Jan Benedek. According to real fans, after hits like
King, Warszawa, Dziko Serca or Stany, the boys were
never the same again, so this should be a chance to catch
up and relive some old favourites as well as check out the
new material. Q Ticket prices and time were undecided at
the moment. Please check our website for updates. Available
soon at Hard Rock Cafe (Open 10:00-24:00).
3Miasto
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
04.02 Friday
Accept
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4. Solingens finest heavy
metal band founded by vocalistUdo Dirkshneider in the early
70s and went on to have a major impact on the German metal
scene in the 80s and the development of speed metal. We all
know the song Metal Heartcontaining covers of two famous
classical themes Tchaikovskys Slavonic March, in the intro,
and Beethovens Fr Elise in the main riff and solo.QConcert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 120z. Available at www.eventim.pl.
15.02 Tuesday
Marika
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11
55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Mainly associated with reggae &
dancehall, Marikas 2008 debut solo album Plenty set out to
prove that wasnt just a reggae singer and by all accounts it
worked, with a large helping of pop being thrown into the mix.
Shes been rubbing some exalted shoulders lately as well, sup-
porting Macy Gray, Gentleman and the Punjabi Hit Squad. One
for the future for sure, inJune she released the slightly confusing
sounding Put your shoes on, put your shoes off.The first
single Uplifter quickly became a hit on alternative radio and at
reggae parties in Poland. Now the airwaves are full of her Esta
fiesta, the latest single. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets
22/28z. Available soon at Hard Rock Cafe (Open 10:00-24:00).
16.02 Wednesday
Deriglasoff
C-3, Hard Rock Cafe, Pl. Mariacki 9, www.hardrock-
cafe.pl. Deriglasoff is the surname of Olaf - guitarist, bass
player, composer and producer known for his work with Kazik
Staszewski. If you like you music a mixture of rock and punk,
then this could be for you. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets
10z. Available at www.eventim.pl and before the concert.
20.02 Sunday
Perfect
A-2, ul. Krupnicza 35. Open any representative of the Polish
music press and you will see critics falling over themselves
to hail Pustki as one of the most ambitious alt rock bands
around. They have just finished the new album Kalambury
with guest appearances by Artur Rojek of Myslovitz and
Kasia Nosowska of Hey, so they are rubbing the appropriate
shoulders too. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110z.
Available at www.eventim.pl.
22.02 Tuesday
Motion Trio and Leszek Moder
E-2, Krakw Opera, ul. Lubicz 48. The great accordion
group Motion Trio will perform together with the equally
great pianist Leszek Moder to mark 15 years of Motion
activity. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 120/90z.
Available at City Information Point, ul. w. Jana 2, C-3 (Open
10:00 - 18:00).
22.02 Tuesday
The National
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4. The National deal in
alternative music with orchestral elements. The leader of
this Brooklyn band isMatt Berninger and he is joined by two
pairs of brothers: Scott and Bryan Devendorf as well as
Aaron and Bryce Dessner. At the moment one of the most
popular bands in the USA alongside the likes of The Editors
or Interpol, they had their breakthrough with the release of
the album Alligator and later Boxer. Q Time and ticket
prices were undecided at the moment. Please check our
website for more updates.
23.02 Wednesday
Indigo Tree
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Indigo Tree is a project
of Filip Zawada and Peve Levy who teamed up in 2009 to
work on some film music. Later on they formed a band and
recorded the album Lullabies Of Love And Death and
in September last year, recorded as the trio - Blanik. Q
Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 20/25z. Available soon at
Hard Rock Cafe (Open 10:00-24:00).
23.02 Wednesday
Patrycja Markowska
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. The daughter of the leader
of famous Polish rock group Perfect, Grzegorz Markowski,
she started her career in 2001, with the album Bd Silna
(I will be strong) which was nominated for a Fryderyk award
for debut album. Her music can be described as pop with
elements of rock and her strong voice always makes an
impression. Q Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 38z.
Available at Hard Rock Cafe (Open 10:00-24:00) and www.
eventim.pl.
24.02 Thursday
Apocalyptica
R- 2, ania Nowa, os. Szkolne 25. Fi nni sh cel l o
metal -masters are busy taki ng thei r brand of mayhem
around Eastern Europe. They st ar ted wi t h covers
of bands l i ke Metal l i ca, Fai th No More or Pantera,
possi bl y i n a garage, but soon moved onto wri ti ng
thei r own materi al . Thi s concer t wi l l be par t of a tour
promoti ng thei r 7th al bum enti tl ed, not i n anyway pre-
tenti ousl y, 7th Symphony produced by one Howard
Benson, of Motorhead and Sepul tura al bum produc-
ti on renown. Q Concer t st ar t s at 19: 00. Ti cket s
115-130z. Avai l abl e at Empi k, Rynek G wny 5, C-3
(Open 09: 00 - 22: 00).
11.03 Friday
Raz Dwa Trzy
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4. One of Polands most
beloved bands, Raz, Dwa, Trzy came together when the
band members were students at the University of Zielona
Gra in 1990. Three months after forming they won the
26th Student Song Festival in Krakw, their blend of rock,
jazz, folk and poetry wooing the crowds and judges, making
them instant stars. Over the course of their career, their
popularity has only increased with their albums selling
hundreds of thousands. This concert will be promoting
their latest album: SkDokd. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Tickets 45/35z. Available at Empik, Rynek Gwny 5 (Open
09:00 - 22:00).
12.03 Saturday
Lao Che & Czesaw piewa
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4, tel. (+48) 12 617
45 45. On tour together: Czesaw pi ewa i s hard to
defi ne, thei r musi c has i n turn been descri bed as a
combo of tango, punk, i ntell i gent rock and pop cabaret.
Whatever you do, expect the unexpected and prepare for
a good ni ght out. Meanwhi l e popul ar Pol i sh crossover
band Lao Che deal wi th matters hi stori cal i ncl udi ng
Sl avi c tri bes i n the mi ddl e ages and the Warsaw Upri s-
i ng. Q Concer t star ts at 20: 00. Ti cket pri ces were
unavai l abl e at the moment. Pl ease check our websi te
for updates. Avai l abl e at Empi k, Rynek Gwny 5, C-3
(Open 09:00 - 22:00).
22.02 Tuesday - 28.02 Monday
Shanties Festival 2011
www.shanties.pl. Poland hosts a staggering 20 shanty
festivals every year and the largest of these is held in
Krakw and this years event should be extra special as
its 30th jubilee. The Shanty Festival has twice hosted
Stan Hugill. He was The Last Working Shantyman, serv-
ing on the Garthpool, the last British commercial sailing
ship. Over the intervening years the festival has grown to
become one of the most important shanty events in the
world, mentioned alongside those in Liverpool, Karlsk-
rona or Rotterdam. This year 18 concerts will tale place
on 4 stages presenting different currents of sea music
including maritime poetry and ballads, traditional sea
songs, contemporary sailors songs and sailors songs for
children with top namers from home and abroad playing.
Some of the programme looks like this:
23.02 Wednesday
19:00 30th of MKM Szkwa Jubilee Concert
CK Rotunda
24.02 Thursday
19:00 Remembrance Concert
CK Rotunda
23:00 Port Tales part I
Stary Port Tavern
25.02 Friday
12:00 Concert andChildrens show
CK Rotunda
18:00 Stars of the 30th
CK Rotunda
20:00 Rock Shanty Concert
aczek Club
23:00 Shenandoah 2011 Sailor Opera
CK Rotunda
23:00 Port Tales part II
Stary Port Tavern
26.02 Saturday
12:00 Concert and Show for Children
CK Rotunda
17:00 Sea Songs Concert
CK Rotunda
21:00 Shanty & Jazz Concert
Pod Jaszczurem Club
22:00 Contemporary Sailors Song Concert
CK Rotunda
23:00 Port Tales part III
Stary Port Tavern
27.02 Sunday
12:00 Traditional Sea Songs Concert
CK Rotunda
18:00 Final Concert of the 30th
CK Rotunda
23:00 Port Tales part IV
Stary Port Tavern
28.02 Monday
20:00 Port Tales part V
Stary Port Tavern
QTickets 30-43z. Pass 225z. Available at CK
Rotunda (Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun) and Stary Port (Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri
09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00).
Shanties Festival
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
25
WHERE TO STAY
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent into
elite status as a European destination, there is no lack
of accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy
5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to B&Bs,
historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels - you wont be
hard-pressed for a place to stay. Dont forget that you can
now easily compare hotel rates online thanks to a function
on our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - that scours
booking engines for the best rates based on your criteria,
with results often well-below the rack rates we list here (you
can thank us later). Bear in mind that all prices listed below
include VAT (8%) and breakfast, unless indicated. Hotels list
their prices in euros, dollars or zoty; expect to be charged
based on the days exchange rate and asked to pay in zoty.
Cream of the Crop
andels Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12
660 01 00, www.andelscracow.com. One of the first
things youll see when you step off the train is this ultra-
modern hotel designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can be
no doubt about location. Full of odd curves, recessed floor
and wall lighting, Andels hosts a restaurant, bar and spa
centre (with fitness studio, sauna and massage services).
Rooms feature LCD TVs, CD and DVD players, in-house mov-
ies and light, bright colours, while the rooftop terrace of the
Andels apartment is simply unbeatable. Q159 rooms (153
singles 75 - 210, 153 doubles 95 - 230, 6 apartments
330 - 420). PTYHARUFGKDW hhhh
SPLURGE: The Sheraton and the Grand both have
suites that top the 1000 per night mark, with the
Presi dential sui te at Hotel Stary and apartments
of Palac Bonerowski also coming close. Feel like
your splurging without spending so much by booking
yoursel f and the missus into the Komorowski Luxury
Guest Rooms.
CHEAP: Greg & Tom are the most spacious, Nathans
Villa the most social and Goodbye Lenin the most
kitsch all are good options. For centrall y located
budget lodging that trades drunken backpackers for a
proper bed and some privacy, try Tournet or Basztowa
Guestrooms. Alternatively, visit the nightlife section for
suggestions on how to not sleep at all.
LADS: Pack mentality suggests you stop pissing around
and just book into the ever-hospitable Sheraton. How-
ever, if you need to cut costs, look into the Ibis or stay
central in Campanile or Pod Wawelem. Or just make
a reservation at the place you stayed in when your other
buddy got married last year. Wed suggest an apartment,
but we know youd destroy it.
FAMILIES: Why not put the fam in an apartment? In
addition to allowing everyone in your clan a bit more
room to roam, you can also squeeze as many offspring
into the bed as possible at no extra cost and the kids
can be as loud as they want without irritating anyone.
Except you.
Accommodation at a Glance
231
Become a fan of Krakow In Your
Pocket on Facebook
is all we can advise. Q Open 09:00-16:00, Thu 12:00-19:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Closed every 2nd Sunday of the month. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 4/3z.
04.01 Tuesday - 31.12 Monday
Krakw Under Nazi Occupation 1939-1945
K-4, Schindlers Factory, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12
257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. This exhibition focusses on the
life and times of Oskar Schindler, perhaps the citys most
famous wartime resident. There are photos of the Polish
and Jewish communities showing how they coped with the
Nazi onslaught and occupation. Q Open 10:00-18:00, Mon
10:00-14:00. Closed the first Monday of every month. Last
entrance 90 minutes before closing. Admission 15/13z.
Guided tours in English for groups of over 15 people, 16z
per person. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.
Nowa Huta 1949 plus O-2, Nowa Huta Museum, os.
Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75, www.
mhk.pl. Nowa Huta was perhaps communist Polands grand-
est excursion into social engineering, apparently an idea from
Uncle Joe Stalin. Built from scratch immediately after the war,
it grew to be a steel town of 200,000 people and, significantly,
no churches. Come along and see archive films and photos of
what the communist dream was supposed to look like. Q Ad-
mission 5/4z. Wed free. Open 09:00-16:00, Wed 10:00-17:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Also open every second Sunday of the month
and closed the following Tuesday to make up for it (and create
maximum confusion). Last ticket sold 30 minutes before closing.
Festivals
04.03 Friday - 05.03 Saturday
II Cracow Reggae Festival
Kwadrat, ul. Skaryskiego 1 (Prdnik Czewony). Make
mine a large one and get ready for two days with top name
Polish Reggae stars. In total there will be 8 bands and an
after party at the end of each day. Come along and cool your
wheel to the likes of Raggafaya, Kamil Bednarek, Star Guard
Muffin, Junior Stress and more. Q Concerts start at 18:00.
Tickets 35-70z. Available at Empik, Rynek Gwny 5, C-3
(Open 09:00 - 22:00) and before the concert.
Theatres
05.03 Saturday
Axe! Polish Dances in Punk Key
C-3, ania Nowa Theatre, os. Szkolne 25 (Nowa Huta),
tel. (+48) 12 680 23 40, www.laznianowa.pl. This is that
strangest of beasts, a musical telling the history of Poland during
the 80s and 90s from the viewpoint of a rock vocalist. The music
is based on Polish punk rock, performed in a more trance or New
Wave style, with songs from the likes of Kult, Dezerter, Akurat
or Siekiera Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 20/30z. Availbale
at City Information Point, ul. w. Jana 2 (Open 10:00 - 18:00).
27.03 Sunday
Legends of Shaolin
A-2, Auditorium Maximus Hall, ul. Krupnicza 35, www.
makroconcert.com/pl. Go on a mythival journey back
through 1,500 years of Chinese history in this two-hour show.
The monks are real and range in age from 7 to 75 years old.
The display includes the story of how Shaolin was created with
authentic costumes from the period and music helping to con-
jure the eastern atmosphere. A highlight should be the audience
participation section where members of the public try their best
in the various disciplines - a kind of Kung Fu Generation Game
is how I imagine it. Q Event starts at 17:00. Tickets 100-160z.
Available at Empik, Rynek Gwny 5, C-3 (Open 09:00 - 22:00).
25.03 Friday
Seweryn Krajewski
A-2, Auditorium Maximum, ul. Krupnicza 35. Seweryn Kra-
jewski was one of the leaders of Polish beat legends Czerwone
Gitary, finally quitting the band in 1997, after 32 years. Hes a
singer, songwriter, guitar, bass, keyboard and violin player and
hasnt been resting on his laurels. In 2009 he recorded a hit
album with Andrzej Piaseczny and now hes promoting his lat-
est Jak tam jest released on January 11th. Q Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 160z. Available at www.eventim.pl and City
Information Point, ul. w. Jana 2 (Open 10:00 - 18:00).
03.04 Sunday
Maryla Rodowicz
G-2, Wisa Sport Hall, ul. Reymonta 22. Rodowicz is the best-
selling and highest-earning Polish singer of all time. She plays pop,
rock-pop and folk and has been doing so since 1962, recording
2000 songs, 20 albums, as well as releasing LPs in English,
Czech, German and Russian. 2008s Jest Cudnie was produced
by Smolik while last years best of PRO-Fanacja collection was
available to just 120 fans! The crazy world of rock, eh... Q Con-
cert starts at 19:30. Tickets 80z. Available at www.eventim.pl.
Exhibitions
Great Cracow - Great Chances (Wielki Krakw - Wiel-
kie Szanse) C-3, History Museum, Rynek Gwny 35. An
exhibition organised to mark 100 years since the expansion of the
borders of Krakow by the then president Julian Leo. This enlarge-
ment lead to new opportunities for the town, hence the title of the
show, which features documents, photography and publications
showing the development of Krakw around 1910 - 1915. Q
Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z. Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed
Mon,Tue. From November open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon,Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
07.11 Sunday - 03.04 Sunday
To the hell of Sachsenhausen
K-4, Schindlers Factory, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12
257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. This is an exhibition depicting the
events surrounding the systematic extermination of a large
section of the Polish elite - doctors, intellectuals, teachers
and so on - during WWII. It is based on material from archives
of Jagiellonian University and Sti ftung Brandenburgische
Gedenksttten. The exhibi tions were first displayed at
various camps themselves, Sachsenhausen included. Q
Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z. Guided Tour 50z. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Closed the first Monday
of every month. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
19.11 Friday - 31.03 Thursday
Zbigniew Libera. The Gay, Innocent and Heartless
H-3, National Museum, al. 3 Maja 1, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. For the first time, the works of Libera, the pioneer
of critical art, will be presented in the national Museum. The
exhibition includes a cycle of photos taken from his debut in
the 80s which investigate the impact of the mass media on
peoples identity. Q Open10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, audioguide 15z. Sun free for
permanent exhibitions.
24.11 Wednesday - 20.02 Sunday
Kitchen - The Housewifes Kingdom
C-3, Hipolit House, Pl. Mariacki 3, www.mhk.pl. This, lets
face it, rather unPC sounding exhibition presents the kitchen from
the XIX century. It includes elaborately decorated coffee mills,
irons, washing machines and all that sort of thing. There will also
be adverts and recipes from those times if old pots and pans
werent exciting enough. Get there early to avoid disappointment
26
WHERE TO STAY
27
WHERE TO STAY
Copernicus C- 5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 34 00, www.hotel.com.pl. You ve chosen wel l .
Few hotel s i n Central Europe can match the standard
set by Coperni cus, and i ts a fi rm favouri te of vi si ti ng
di gni tari es, wi th guests i ncl udi ng George W. Tasteful l y
uncl uttered the hotel i s decorated wi th heavy wood-
work, marbl e, ri ch fabri cs and wal l frescoes - some
dati ng from the 14th centur y. Enj oy roof top terrace
vi ews of Wawel , gourmet food or the fi tness centre
and swi mmi ng pool housed i n the medi eval cel l ars.
Q29 rooms (3 si ngl es 800z, 17 doubl es 900 - 980z,
8 sui tes 1200 - 2000z). PTJHAR6FLG
KDCW hhhhh
Grand C-2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08
00, www.grand.pl. Krakws first five-star hotel has long
been established as the citys most luxurious and has the
legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private suites
with original murals, coffered ceilings, stained glass windows,
ornamental fireplaces and ceremonious service create the
imperial ambiance the hotel has built its reputation on since
its 19th century stint as the Czartoryski Palace, while a
business centre and fitness club add modern conveniences.
Q64 rooms (55 singles 80 - 260, 45 doubles 100 - 280,
9 apartments 175 - 1500). PTJHAR6UFL
GKD hhhhh
Grdek D- 3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90
30, www.donimirski.com. The honeymoon choi ce.
Brought to you by the same team behind the Pugetw
and Mal taski, so the quali ty comes as no surprise. The
interior, desi gned by Swiss studio IKRL, is redol ent of an
aristocrats country retreat, and the individually designed
rooms come wi th vases of fl owers, bathrobes and a
homel y l ook that reeks of romanti c class. Adjacent to
a Domini can convent, Grdek of fers an air of compl ete
sereni ty an recentl y made the j ump to 5 stars. Q23
rooms (21 singl es 390 - 670z, 18 doubl es 440 - 670z,
2 apartments 610 - 840z). PTHAR6UG
KDW hhhhh
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D-4, ul. Wielopole
4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow.pl. Noth-
ing short of top-level standards courtesy of the Holiday Inn.
Easy-on-the-eye navy blue colours, staff who fuss over you
and large rooms make this the reliable choice one expects.
For the best price check out their web page which sports daily
special offers. Q154 rooms (124 singles 109 - 199, 124
doubles 129 - 219, 30 suites 159 - 299). PTJHA
R6UFLGK hhhhh
Hotel Art Niebieski & SPA H-3, ul. Flisacka 3,
tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.niebieski.com.pl. A
relatively new five-star hotel and spa on a quiet corner
of the Wisa riverbank, the Niebieski is designed to be
environmentall y sustainabl e and energy ef ficient, wi th
a harmonious holistic interior arrangement that extends
from the new Vanilla Spa throughout the entire hotel. The
spacious rooms feature wide, comfortable beds, unique
modern furnishings and soothing colours, and the third
floor apartments offer gorgeous views of the Wisa River
and Wawel Castle from their terraces. The philosophy of
well-being also applies to the Vanilla Sky on-site restau-
rant which serves light fusion cuisine with only certi fied
organic ingredients. There is also a 3-star hotel directly
next door owned by the same people i f youd rather keep
some of your cash to spend i n the spa (si ngl es 250-
280zl, 290-320zl). Q40 rooms (38 singles 390 - 480z,
38 doubles 450 - 550z, 2 apartments 920 - 1000z).
PTHAUFGKDW hhhhh
SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Dreams
come true
Sheraton Krakow Hotel is ideally
located near Wawel Castle, on the
bank of Wisa River with amazing
views to both. It is just a 10-minute
walk from the famous Market Square
at the Old Town.
232 Pccms wilh Sweel Sleerer Bec
3 Peslcurcrls: The live Peslcurcrl,
SomePlace Else with outdoor
Terrace&Garden, Qube Vodka
Bcr&Ccle
Lirk6Sherclcr, Exclusive CluL
Lcurge, Sherclcr Filress wilh
Swimmirg rccl
5 Leelirg Pccms: ccrccily ur lc
300 delegates
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Dreams
come true
Sheraton Krakow Hotel is ideally
located near Wawel Castle, on the
bank of Wisa River with amazing
views to both. It is just a 10-minute
walk from the famous Market Square
at the Old Town.
232 Pccms wilh Sweel Sleerer Bec
3 Peslcurcrls: The live Peslcurcrl,
SomePlace Else with outdoor
Terrace&Garden, Qube Vodka
Bcr&Ccle
Lirk6Sherclcr, Exclusive CluL
Lcurge, Sherclcr Filress wilh
Swimmirg rccl
5 Leelirg Pccms: ccrccily ur lc
300 delegates
Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384
08 08, stary.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits inside
one of Polands top hotels. Gain entry via a huge hardwood
door that automatically swings open, James Bond-style. Oc-
cupying a former aristocratic residence many of the original
details have been retained, to go alongside chic touches such
as a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation
comes with bathrooms fitted with Italian marble, and sumptu-
ous rooms filled with creature comforts. A subterranean pool
open to all can be found in the cellars, while perched on top of
the hotel is a recommended albeit seasonal rooftop bar with
views staring onto the main square. Q53 rooms (8 singles
590 - 800z, 34 doubles 690 - 900z, 4 suites 1140z, 6 apart-
ments 1190 - 1900z, 1 Presidential Suite 1790 - 2280z).
PTJHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Komorowski Luxury Guest Rooms C-1, ul. Duga
7, tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.komorowskikrakow.
com. This honeymoon haven has all the hallmarks to make
it the perfect romantic getaway including king-size beds,
heated floors, 40-inch LCD televisions and two-person
Jacuzzis with jet massage - some rooms even include tubs
with water illumination and built-in stereos, as an in-room
waterfall tinkles nearby. (We couldnt find the button that
makes rose petals fall from the ceiling, but were sure its
there somewhere.) Tastefully designed in Art Deco style,
these immaculate rooms represent the highest standards
in Krakw, buoyed by the personal service of owners Jerry
and Bart themselves. Located just north of the main square
on ul. Duga, you almost wish they were further away so you
wouldnt have to explain why you havent left the room all
weekend. Check the website for details of their Romantic
Getaway packages. Q3 rooms (3 singles 349 - 489z, 3
doubles 359 - 499z). Breakfast 20z. TARLGW
Paac Bonerowski (Bonerowski Palace) C- 3,
Rynek Gwny 42/w. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 12 374 13
00, www.palacbonerowski.pl. A masterpiece of a hotel
occupying a historic property dating from the early 16th
century - King Jan Sobieski walked these corridors back in the
17th century. Many of the original details have been retained
and restored, including gothic columns and medieval ma-
sonry and rooms come beautifully appointed with voluptuous
drapes and elegant furnishings. Features of note include a
sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering above, as well as
the full range of top-class services. Best of all rooms come
with grandstand views facing the main square, allowing you
to do all your holiday snaps from the comfort of your room.
Q14 rooms (8 singles 120 - 140, 8 doubles 160 - 180, 6
apartments 220 - 450). PTHARUFGKDW
hhhhh
Radisson Blu B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12
618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com. Over 400 paintings
from the Krakw Academy of Art decorate the walls, while
other trimmings include high-speed internet access, gym and
ice-making machines on each floor. Choose between rooms
decorated in either ocean (turquoise shades, smooth lines)
or city-style (scarlet colours and edges). Regardless, both
boast three telephone lines, heated bathroom floors and
the best TV units youll find in Poland. Q196 rooms (148
singles 565 - 774z, 148 doubles 565 - 774z, 19 apart-
ments 900 - 1340z, 29 Business Class Room 760 - 880z).
PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhhh
28
WHERE TO STAY
29
WHERE TO STAY
Sheraton Krakw A-5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12
662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow. The choice of
the stars. This is where the Real Madrid football team stayed
back in 2004, though usually its wealthy tourists and corpo-
rate travellers who bustle through the glass-covered atrium
in this sparkling five star venture. Rooms come decorated
with chequered scarlet colour schemes and state-of-the-
art amenities. Q232 rooms (224 singles 475 - 950z, 224
doubles 535 - 1025z, 7 suites 919 - 2269z, 1 Wawel Suite
2412 - 3970z). Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGK
DCW hhhhh
Upmarket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429
60 70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired
by the age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with
state-of-the-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded
down here and this is one place which guarantees the
memorabl e stay that this hi stori c ci ty requi res. Q22
rooms (20 singles 115 - 170, 20 doubles 125 - 200,
2 apartments 175 - 250). PTYJHARUF
GKD hhhh
Best Western Premier Krakow Hotel ul. Opol -
ska 14a (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 376 37 00,
www.krakowpremier.pl. I f youre thi nki ng of stayi ng
i n the worl ds l argest hotel chai n, then you probabl y
know what to expect. Wel l , hang on, thi s i s the ni cest
BW we ve ever seen. Opened i n 2008, thi s thoroughl y
modern, whi te-washed ef for t hardl y l ooks l i ke i t was
turned out by the cooki e cutter; wi th a strange red
and whi te peacock feather pat tern decorati ng the
facade, thats evi dent strai ght-away. The rooms are
standard - free i nternet, LCD TVs, mi ni -fri dge, safe,
Pi casso repri nt - and hotel ser vi ces i ncl ude l aundr y
and 24 hour room ser vi ce i n case you need a bottl e of
champagne at 3 am. A day spa, swi mmi ng pool, sauna,
fi tness room and busi ness faci l i ti es are al so avai l abl e,
as wel l as a shuttl e bus ser vi ce ferr yi ng guests from
the hotel - j ust nor th of the centre - i nto the Ol d Town.
Q169 rooms (73 si ngl es 55, 92 doubl es 63, 2 sui tes
127, 2 apartments 127). PTHAR6UFL
GKDCW hhhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627
37 77, www.accorhotels.com. The kind of place where
doormen and porters wear gold braiding on their uniforms.
A grand effort, Francuski squeezes classic furniture into the
rather tight quarters. Beds are large and all rooms feature
minibars, internet access and trouser press. Q42 rooms (4
singles 308 - 562z, 23 doubles 308 - 562z, 15 apartments
405 - 620z). Breakfast 50z. PTJHAR6FGK
hhhh
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw I - 4, ul. Marii Ko-
nopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.
com. This new luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisa
has more to of fer than j ust spectacul ar vi ews of the
ri ver and Wawel. The first Hil ton Garden Inn to open in
Poland, the brand is desi gned to tame the tensi on of
demandi ng busi nesspeopl e. Rooms come wi th l arge
workspaces, a separate li ving area wi th a pull -out sofa,
ergonomi c chairs desi gned to relax your back and full y-
adj ustabl e beds. Arguabl y the most comfortabl e hotel
room youve ever stayed in, a 24-hour business centre,
fi tness centre, conference facili ti es, bar and restaurant
are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147 singl es 282 - 366,
147 doubl es 321 - 417, 7 apartments 481 - 625).
PTHARUFLGKW hhhh
Hotel Kossak A-5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12
379 59 00, www.hotelkossak.pl. The team behind
the hi ghl y-lauded Senacki Hotel have added a star for
their new ef fort near the Wisa ri verbank, whi ch opened
in April. 60 elegant, well -appointed rooms with flatscreen
TVs, wi fi and adj ustabl e ai r condi ti oni ng - more than
two-thirds of whi ch overl ook Wawel Castl e - are at your
disposal, as well as a large conference centre wi th state
of the art audio-visual equipment and a classy 6th fl oor
restaurant i deal for receptions and daydreaming from
the terrace. Q60 rooms (55 si ngl es 490 - 530z, 55
doubles 540 - 580z, 5 suites 840 - 880z). PTHA
R6UFGKDW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. Floriaska 35 / w. Marka
20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl.
Ni ce choi ce. Located a short wal k from the trai n stati on
and ri ght on a corner of the royal route i ts di f fi cul t to
feel l i ke youre stayi ng anywhere other than the heart
of the ci ty. Modern conveni ence i n an el egant ol d bui l d-
i ng, the dapper rooms i ncl ude everythi ng youd expect
from a new upmarket hotel and guests can enj oy the
use of a fi tness room and sauna, as wel l as conference
faci l i ti es and a styl i sh restaurant wi th a l auded chef
(Rafa Targosz) cal l i ng shots behi nd the scenes. Q35
rooms (35 si ngl es 450 - 600z, 23 doubl es 500 - 700z,
1 apartments 960 - 1200z). PTHARFLG
KDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47
37, www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand ef fort insi de a full y
restored tenement buil ding near the Barbi can. Swish,
spaci ous rooms come wi th ri ch col ours and modern
trappi ngs of feri ng a fi ne bal ance between past and
present: wi fi and satelli te TV in each and the doubl es
even come wi th proper beds. The restaurant is full of
stained glass, theres a beer garden in summer and a
full set of business facili ti es to boot. Q48 rooms (45
singl es 260z, 42 doubl es 320z, 3 apartments 500z).
PTHAR6UGKD hhh
Monopol C- 4, ul. w. Gertrudy 6, tel. (+48) 12
422 76 66, www.r thotel s.com.pl. I f you vi si ted
Krakw approximatel y fi ve years ago you may remem-
ber the Monopol as a ri ght house of horror. Times have
changed and the Monopol is now unrecognizabl e from
i ts former state. Soft col oured rooms come wi th fl ow-
ers, internet access and an airy aestheti c, bringing i t in
line wi th the competi tion. Q74 rooms (1 singl es 165 -
249z, 54 doubl es 185 - 339z, 18 tripl es 235 - 409z).
TJHAR6UGKW hhh
Novotel Krakw Bronowice F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej
11, tel. (+48) 12 622 64 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Not the best location around, nor does it look like Prince
Charmings palace from the outside, however this big func-
tional box hotel has undergone major renovations to make it
more comfortable than ever. The rooms have changed little
as they were already some of the largest in town and would
seem even more spacious if the beds werent so big; with
over 300 of them, this is still one of Krakws larger hotels,
and as such primed for large conferences and tour groups
casting a glance at the higher end of the hotel market. The
restaurant has expanded and the lobby has been turned into
a lounge with books and the daily foreign press to peruse.
Start the day with a few lengths in the swimming pool, and
finish it with late night cocktails in their bar. Q305 rooms
(304 singles 246 - 379z, 304 doubles 246 - 379z, 1 suites
473 - 609z). Breakfast 54 z. POTHAR6UFL
GKDCW hhhh
The word Krakw originates from Krak (or Krakus), the
fabled ruler of the Vistulan tribes, who according to leg-
end founded the city some time around 700AD and who,
among a great many other possible things, valiantly led
an army against the Gaulles in Carinthia. Further legends
surrounding Krak include either him or one of his two
sons slaying Smok, the equally implausible dragon who
once lived in a cave inside Wawel Hill, and that of his
daughter Wandas refusal to marry a German prince, an
act that led directly to her spearheading a victorious at-
tack against an invading Germanic horde. Wanda ended
her days by throwing herself in the Wisa in order to save
Poland from further peril, and they all lived happily ever
after. Parallels have been drawn between Krak and St.
George, as well as the Czech ruler, Krok. You decide.
Whats In a Name?
30
WHERE TO STAY
31
WHERE TO STAY
Novotel Krakw Centrum H-3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel.
(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. Decorated
with bright blue and orange patterns the Novotel Centrum
offers all the comforts youd associate with a big brand
name. The hotel includes air-conditioning from top-to-bottom,
sauna, one of Krakws few hotel pools and facilities fully
geared towards the disabled. The upper floors feature views
overlooking Wawel Castle. Q198 rooms (192 singles 330
- 675z, 192 doubles 330 - 675z, 6 suites 610 - 1060z).
Breakfast 65z. PTHAR6UFGKDCW
hhhh
Pod R (Under the Rose) C- 3, ul. Floriaska
14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.hotel.com.pl.
A beauti full y restored histori c hotel, and formerl y the
stamping ground of Tsar Al eksander I and Franz Liszt.
Recent renovati ons have done nothi ng to disturb the
character and rooms come wi th state-of-the-art facili -
ti es, Persian rugs and important l ooking anti ques. Q57
rooms (50 si ngl es 650 - 720z, 37 doubl es 720z, 7
apartments 1200 - 1600z). PTJHA6UF
GKDW hhhh
Polski Pod Biaym Orem C-2, ul. Pijarska 17,
tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www.podorlem.com.pl.
Fabulously located between the Czartoryski Museum and
Fl oriaska Gate, this incredi bl e hotel of fers vi ews of the
onl y survi ving section of the ci tys medi eval defensi ve
walls. One of the ol dest hotels in town, the Whi te Eagl e
has been operating as an inn since 1815; after becoming
state property under communism i t was returned to the
Czartoryski famil y (yes, they of the famous art coll ection
and Da Vinci painting next door) and is today again one
of Krakws most exquisi te, yet overl ooked accommo-
dation options. Rather than bl ending the modern wi th
the anti que, the Whi te Eagl e has stayed i n character
going 19th century all the way; rooms are full of ori ginal
frescoes and archi tectural details whil e provi ding all the
expected ameni ti es. Q57 rooms (28 singl es 293z, 21
doubl es 360z, 5 tripl es 435z, 3 sui tes 636 - 727z).
PTJHA6UGW hhh
Pugetw D- 4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48) 12
432 49 50, www.donimirski.com. At last Krakw can
boast the attractive, boutique hotel that it deserves. No
expense has been spared creating this intimate spot and
your accommodation comes with embroidered bathrobes
and some 200 television channels to veg in front of. Rooms
come with their own unique design, and names like Conrad
and Bonaparte. Our favourite, the Kwiatkowski apartment,
features oil paintings, bone china and soft cream fabrics.
Treat yoursel f. Q7 rooms (2 singles 250 - 280z, 1 doubles
380 - 470z, 1 triples 420 - 510z, 1 suites 400 - 420z,
2 apartments 520 - 610z). PTHAR6LGW
hhh
Qubus Hotel Krakw J- 4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel.
(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. A cool
design includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an
angle from the hotels faade. Air-conditioned rooms come
furnished to high standards and feature 26 inch televisions,
broadband internet as well as an ironing board to help with
keeping up appearances. Unsurprisingly theres a heavy
business slant to this hotel, with five conference rooms to
pick from, while for after-work moments take timeout in the
fitness centre - complete with top floor swimming pool with
views stretching over central Krakw. Q194 rooms (183
singles 129, 170 doubles 146, 10 suites 180 - 197, 1
apartments 220 - 237). PTHAR6UFGK
DCW hhhh
Rezydent C-3, ul. Grodzka 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 54
10, www.rezydent.krakow.pl. Outstandi ng qual i ty
found behind a medieval faade. Suites are decorated in
contemporary fashion, while the doubles and singles come
with vaulted ceilings and original stencil-work. On the main
strip, so expect noise. Q30 rooms (14 singles 85 - 100,
14 doubles 95 - 115, 1 triples 118 - 125, 15 apartments
118 - 155). TJAR6UGW hhh
RT Monopol Jazz C-4, ul. w. Gertrudy 6, tel. (+48)
12 422 76 66, www.rthotels.com.pl. The latest offering
from the reliable RT group provides a space in which, in their
own words, artists create a new style of comfort. With a jazz
theme, rooms are bright and decidedly different, coming with
all the mod cons youd expect from a Polish three-star hotel.
Located inside the same building as the RT Monopol, theres
also a decent restaurant plus the added bonus of being
located just a couple of minutes away from the Old Town.
Q18 rooms (18 singles 280 - 319z, 17 doubles 299 - 419z,
3 suites 399 - 489z). PTHAR6GKW hhh
Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00
00, www.hotelrubinstein.com. Its no longer possible to
refer to Kazimierz as Krakws upcoming district. Kazimierz
has well and truly arrived, and this place is the proof. In
keeping with the spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein
come with elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and
antique details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and
all are treated to modern finishes that include gleaming
bathrooms, air conditioning and satellite TV. Situated right
in the thick of the tourist trail, so expect a host of sights right
on your doorstep. Q27 rooms (22 singles 450 - 640z, 18
doubles 480 - 700z, 5 suites 830 - 2000z). PTHA
RUFLGKDW hhhh
Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86,
www.senacki.pl. A beautifully renovated historic building is
the setting for this high-standard hotel. Well-appointed rooms
include easy colour schemes and great views of old Krakw.
Planted between Wawel and Old Town Square. Q20 rooms
(18 singles 380 - 450z, 14 doubles 450 - 540z, 2 suites
500 - 615z). PTAR6ULGW hhh
Sympozjum ul. Kobierzyska 47 (Podgrze), tel. (+48)
12 261 86 00, www.sympozjum.com.pl. A smart hotel
with different colour schemes on each floor. Polite service
and soft rock music greets you in the lobby, while the
basement houses meeting rooms and a swimming pool.
Bedrooms are large, quiet and fitted with soft carpets and
good minibars. However the plush Krysztaowe Spa may
be the best reason to book into this rather fine hotel in the
tweenlands where Dbniki and Podgrze meet. Q80 rooms
(75 singles 80, 75 doubles 100, 5 apartments 140 - 230).
PTHAR6UGKDC hhhh
Wentzl C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64,
www.wentzl.pl. A world-class hotel with the best views in
the city. The rooms come decked in rich fabrics, hand-woven
rugs, beautiful carpentry work and original artwork. The staff
will do anything, within the realms of decency, to ensure a
smooth stay: from booking opera tickets to reserving flights.
Q18 rooms (18 singles 129 - 159, 18 doubles 139 - 169,
8 triples 169 - 199). PTJA6LGKW hhhh
Follow POLANDIYP on
ASCOT HOTEL
31026 Krakw,
ul. Radziwiowska 3
Phone +48 12 384 06 06,
+48 12 384 06 66
Fax +48 12 384 06 07
e-mail: rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl,
recepcja@hotelascot.pl
www.hotelascot.pl
Three star Ascot Hotel offers its
guests modern, functional rooms
and an intimate, comfortable atmo-
sphere in the very centre of Krakow.
Your Hotel
in the heart of Krakow
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33 comfortably rooms (2 suites) all air-conditioned
conference room | restaurant | summer garden
ul. Jzefa 24, 31-056 Krakw
tel: + 48 12 432 50 10, fax: + 48 12 432 50 20
e mail: biuro@astoriahotel.pl
www.astoriahotel.pl
32
WHERE TO STAY
33
WHERE TO STAY
Ascot Hotel E-3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48) 12
384 06 06, www.ascothotel.pl. A modern front shields
a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints of classic
works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free internet
access inside each room. Smartly appointed rooms come
with reddish carpets and bouncy beds, while the shining
white bathrooms also include hairdryers - not always a given
in Poland. Q49 rooms (40 singles 75, 36 doubles 90, 7
triples 105, 2 quads 120). PTHA6ULGW
hhh
Astoria D-6, ul. Jzefa 24, tel. (+48) 12 432 50 10,
www.astoriahotel.pl. Good value in a great location com-
fortably around the corner from the bohemian debauchery
of Plac Nowy, Astoria is a top choice for those intent on
exploring the old Jewish Quarter and being part of the
neighbourhood. The rooms are comfortably-sized with suites
and family studios also available, and all are equipped with
air conditioning, internet, satellite TV and some dusty old
contraption called a radio. Park your car in their guarded
underground lot and hit the sauna after a hard day of lazing
about cafes and beer gardens. The hotel restaurant serves
Polish and international dishes and is open for passers-by
too. Q33 rooms (33 singles 190 - 300z, 24 doubles 230
- 350z, 6 triples 270 - 390z, 2 apartments 300 - 450z).
PTHARULGKD hhh
Atrium C-1, ul. Krzywa 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 03, www.
hotelatrium.com.pl. Clean, spacious rooms furnished in a
subtle, Scandinavian fashion. The well-equipped conference
room can fit up to 70 people and apartments are equipped
with kitchenettes, living room and two beds. Q52 rooms (42
singles 65 - 69, 39 doubles 75 - 85, 8 triples 90 - 100, 2
apartments 110 - 115). PTHAULGKW hhh
Benefis A-6, ul. Barska 2, tel. (+48) 12 252 07 10,
www.hotelbenefis.pl. A decent deal with bright, sunny
rooms that reflect the age of the hotel - brand new. Of note
is the top floor apartment, complete with slanted skylight
and a separate lounge area. Q20 rooms (12 singles 230
- 280z, 12 doubles 250 - 330z, 8 suites 300 - 380z).
PTAR6UG hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424
26 00, www.campanile.com.pl. The bright rooms come
decorated in the Campanile flagship colours of cream and
green, and feature satellite TV and bathtubs. Ask for one of
the top-floor quarters that overlook the surrounding Planty
Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles 199 - 279z, 105 doubles
199 - 359z, 1 apartments 480 - 520z). Breakfast 35z.
PTJHAUGW hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48)
12 299 00 00, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern build-
ing offering clean-cut, functional accommodation and a
western attitude to service. Free wireless internet access
for guests, as well as regular promotions to keep an eye out
for. Recent renovations have seen all the rooms upgraded.
Q219 rooms (219 singles 44 - 64, 219 doubles 54 - 69).
PTHARUFLGKDW hhh
Classic D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03
03, www.hotel-classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect,
Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an
exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town.
All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and air-
conditioning. Q30 rooms (25 singles 55 - 75, 25 doubles
65 - 85, 3 triples 76 - 135, 5 apartments 108 - 160).
PTJAR6ULGK hhh
Cracovia H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 12 424 56 00,
www.accorhotels.com. A massive concrete facade hides
an interior that resembles an Austin Powers set. Furnishings
are average and the bathrooms can be cramped, though
all the expectations of international hotel service will be
met. Its vast size makes it a popular choice for busloads of
tourists. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Pets
welcome at an additional cost of 39z. The building has wifi,
but youll have to buy a special card at reception to get on
the grid. Q314 rooms (306 singles 130 - 399z, 191 doubles
162 - 399z, 8 apartments 499 - 799z). Breakfast 35z.
POTHAR6ULGKW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65,
www.hoteleden.pl. A modern Kazimierz hotel that caters
to all, but keeps Jewish guests in mind, with fragments of the
Torah on the doors, Krakws only truly kosher restaurant,
original paintings of Kazimierz li fe, and the only mikveh
(Jewish ritual bath house) in Poland. On top of that they also
boast a salt cave to regenerate your body and spirit. Q27
rooms (25 singles 180z, 21 doubles 250z, 5 triples 330z,
2 apartments 450z). THA6UGKDW hhh
Express by Holiday Inn ul. Opolska 14 (Krowodrza),
tel. (+48) 12 614 57 00, www.krakowexpress.pl. Boast-
ing some of the most comfortable beds in the city, as well
as what surely rates as the longest corridor (105 metres),
all rooms are equipped with internet access, cheerful blue
colours and cable TV. Q181 rooms (181 singles 159z, 181
doubles 159z). PTHAUGKW hhh
Floryan C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431 14
18, www.floryan.com.pl. A very good choice. If youre not
travelling lightly then the singles and doubles can appear
Mid-range
Abel E- 6, ul. Jzefa 30, tel. (+48) 12 411 87 36,
www.hotelabel.pl. A charismatic hotel with eccentric art
and assorted bric-a-brac in a lobby that also comes with
piles of tourism pamphlets to peruse. The warm welcome
supplied by the receptionists is similar to the ones found
in family-run enterprises, and the set of wooden stairs
leads guests to rooms primly furnished with modern fit-
tings and light colours. One of the best deals in the area.
Q14 rooms (3 singles 100z, 8 doubles 150z, 3 triples
180z). AGW
Alef C- 6, ul. w. Agnieszki 5, tel. (+48) 12 424
31 31, www. al ef .pl . I mmerse yoursel f i n Jewi sh
Kazi mi er z by booki ng a room above the eccentri c
and enchanti ng Al ef restaurant. Rooms are smal l and
nothi ng speci al , i ncl udi ng pri vate bathrooms, smal l
wal l -mounted TVs, a phone and l i ttl e el se to make
you prefer spendi ng ti me i n your room over the cafes,
bars and restaurants l i tteri ng the nei ghbourhood. A
bi t pri cey i n our opi ni on, but at l east theres a l i f t and
the l ocati on doesn t get much bet ter. Q43 rooms
(43 si ngl es 160z, 38 doubl es 240z, 2 tri pl es 290z).
HAR6GKW hhh
Amber B-2, ul. Garbarska 10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06
06, www.hotel-amber.pl. Set across two floors and a loft
the Amber combines pleasing cream and caramel colours
to compliment the light and modern interiors. Rooms offer
satellite TV and internet access, as well as generous duvets
in which to sink inside. Found down a quiet street just minutes
from all the action. Q18 rooms (2 singles 319 - 350z, 18
doubles 399 - 499z, 6 triples 499 - 599z). PTHA
RUFGKDW hhh
34
WHERE TO STAY
35
WHERE TO STAY
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12
45, www.klezmer.pl. A former mikveh (Jewish ritual bath
house) has been converted into a spacious hotel with pleasant
staff and sometimes very large rooms. The bathhouse in the
cellar is now an occasional theatre. Q10 rooms (7 singles 43
- 52, 7 doubles 56 - 65, 3 apartments 92). HA6GK
Maltaski B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12
431 00 10, www.donimirski.com. Enter the lobby, replete
with chequered tiles and fireplace, and youll get a preview
of the class that lies behind the faade. Rooms come with
fluffy robes on the beds, cream colour schemes and classic
furnishings. Business service on offer include conference
facilities, translation services and organizing temporary of-
fice space. Q16 rooms (16 singles 350 - 570z, 13 doubles
430 - 570z). PTHAR6ULGW hhh
Park Inn by Radisson A-7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel.
(+48) 12 375 55 55, www.krakow.parkinnhotel.pl.
One of Europes fastest-growing hotel companies, Rezidor
has plonked a modern colossus across the Wisa from
Kazimierz, which must be eyeing the interlopers simple,
modern curves and colour scheme slightly dubiously. This
mid-ranger in Dbniki features a fitness room and wellness
centre, impressive business facilities, a bar and grill restau-
rant, lots of parking and an additional 152 kitted-out rooms
in Park Inns signature colours: looks a bit like a Twister mat,
but conjures fond memories.Q152 rooms (150 singles 90
- 120, 150 doubles 100 - 140, 10 suites 180). Breakfast
15. PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh
Petrus G-4, ul. Pietrusiskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 269
29 46, www.petrus.net.pl. A mountain retreat within the
city limits. Tucked next to Twardowski Park, most rooms
offer views of the lakeside rock formations, and come ap-
pointed with comfortable colour schemes, satellite TV and
the odd piece of abstract art. Adjacent hiking trails make
this a great tonic to Krakws more sterile options. Q27
rooms (24 singles 47, 17 doubles 65, 3 triples 96).
THAUGKW hhh
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12
426 26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with
a futuristic look and a location that stands in the shadow
of Wawel Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours
with internet access and CNN available to veg in front of the
television. Find modern bathrooms attached to each room,
and a sharply designed restaurant on the ground floor. Q48
rooms (47 singles 136 - 295z, 41 doubles 166 - 380z, 1
apartments 550z). PTHAR6UGKD hhh
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44,
www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by
Stanisaw Wyspianski over the staircase is the first thing to
catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but
functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You
might not get all new amenities, but you do get 175-year-
old tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles 199z, 24 doubles
299z, 7 triples 390z, 2 quads 470z, 2 apartments 395z).
PTJHA6GKW hhh
Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. (+48) 12 422 12
33, www.hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917
this grand corner structure catches the eye the moment
you leave the train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-
lingual welcome and awesome lobby, while suites come
decorated in a mock 19th century style that help evoke
Krakws golden years. Q61 rooms (43 singles 205z,
32 doubles 245z, 15 triples 329z, 3 apartments 429z).
TJHA6KW hhh
cramped, but the apartments are positively huge. 90s chic
prevails with spotless parquet floors, lots of colour and
IKEA-style vases and lamps dotted around. Q21 rooms (21
singles 250 - 350z, 21 doubles 320 - 430z, 8 triples 500z,
3 quads 560z). PTHA6GKW hhh
Fortuna A-3, ul. Czapskich 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 31
43, www.hotel-fortuna.com.pl. A pleasant hotel inside
a 19th century tenement building, across the street from
a palace owned by the National Museum (which is also
nearby). At Fortuna you can expect beaming faces behind
the reception desk, while upstairs the spacious freshly-
renovated rooms feature wi fi and satelli te TV and are
well soundproofed from the trams that roll by outside. A
sound choice. Q25 rooms (18 singles 230z, 15 doubles
300z, 5 triples 350z, 2 apartments 350z). THAR
6ULKW hhh
Fortuna Bis A-3, ul. Pisudskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12 430
10 25, www.hotel-fortunabis.pl. A welcoming hotel with
a charming green, gated courtyard and wraparound balcony
festooned with flowerpots and shrubs. Rooms have a com-
fortable, homey atmosphere and come with free internet, and
guests get a 10% discount in the rustic restaurant serving
local specialties. Make use of the guarded parking and find
most of the citys attractions within easy walking distance.
Get in touch to negotiate prices. Q23 rooms (8 singles 230z,
12 doubles 300z, 2 triples 350z, 1 apartments 350z).
THAR6ULGKW hhh
Hotel Kazimierz D-6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12
421 66 29, www.hk.com.pl. Beauti ful stained glass
windows inside the restaurant fill this hotel with an upscale
ambiance. Upstairs simple, modern rooms meet three-star
standards, generally have at least one sloping wall, and come
with spongy wallpaper you cant keep your fingers off. Q39
rooms (39 singles 140z, 29 doubles 180z, 2 triples 220z).
PTHA6UGW hhh
Ibis Krakw Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel.
(+48) 12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. You
know what to expect with the Ibis brand. While not an ad-
venturous choice the guys behind the French chain show
an unflagging commitment to maintaining international
standards and high-grade service. Spotless furnishings
and a central location add to the appeal and rooms have
recently been fully renovated. Q175 rooms (175 singles
199 - 229z, 175 doubles 199 - 229z). Breakfast 29z.
PTJA6ULGKW hh
Jordan C-1, ul. Duga 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 92, www.
jordan.pl. Rooms are compact and straight-forward affairs
and although not state-of-the-art, facilities have a newish feel
about them. The glass elevator is a nice touch, and the hotel
is walking distance from the train station. Q19 rooms (15
singles 150z, 15 doubles 250z, 10 triples 330z, 1 quads
400z). TJHARGKW
Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. Smack bang in the middle of the
action, this classic Kazimierz three-star gem may not offer
the most spacious rooms in the city but what it lacks in
square metres it more than makes up for with other things.
Friendly and genuinely helpful staff oversee everything
nicely, plonking chocolates on pillows and providing tea-
and coffee-making facilities in all the rooms. Theres free
wireless internet too, and a decentish cold buffet breakfast
served in the downstairs restaurant. Q11 rooms (4 singles
230 - 260z, 6 doubles 270 - 398z, 1 suites 400 - 520z).
PTHAR6GKW hhh
A peaceful and intimate hotel in the centre of
Krakow's Kazimierz district located in the
renovated interior of a 19th century building.
Comfortable rooms including
bathroom/shower, satellite TV, radio,
telephone and Internet access. We also have
an in-house restaurant.
Ul. Kupa 15, 31-057 Krakw,
Tel: +48 12 430 66 97, +48 12 430 67 00,
Fax: +48 12 430 67 26
e-mail: hotel@karmel.com.pl
www.karmel.com.pl
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we ofer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
ofer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
Krakw has something of a fixation with dogs; where
else in the world will you find an annual fancy dress
sausage dog parade. To enjoy the sight of dogs dressed
as pirates and musketeers make sure you visi t in
September and in the meantime, after marvelling at
the glories of Wawel Castle, take time out to view one
of Krakws true oddities. From Wawel take the short
walk to (B-6) Bulwar Czcerwieski to find a statue of
Dok (Jock) the Dog.
By all accounts this chap was a happy and no doubt
philosophical little Polish dog who was left tragically
orphaned when his owner had a heart attack in his car
in 1990 on the citys busy Grunwald Roundabout (Rondo
Grunwaldzkie). Left behind when his master was taken
away in an ambulance, Dok waited patiently for his
friend to return for a year before finally going to live with
a lady who used to come and feed him. After the lady
died in 1998 poor Dok was taken to a local dog hostel
from where he escaped on his second day of captivity
and was promptly levelled by a train. Not the happiest
story the world has heard, youll agree.
Anyhow, in 2001 a sculpture of Dok was unveiled at
Bulwar Czerwieski close to where his original master
passed away, with an inscription reading most faithful
canine friend ever, symbolizing dogs boundless devotion
to his master. The work of sculptor Bronisaw Chromy
(yes, the same man to blame for the ghastly Wawel
dragon sculpture), a collection box in the back is for
helping fellow orphaned animals.
Dogs
36
WHERE TO STAY
37
WHERE TO STAY
Wawel C- 4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13
00, www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top mi d-
range offers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary
of a recent renovation, making i t even more of a steal.
Set insi de a histori c townhouse, some of the 19th cen-
tury secessionist touches have survi ved, including the
glass roof of the entrance and iron balustrade of the
stai rwel l. A magni fi cent mural l ed courtyard wi l l have
you wi shi ng i t was summer al l year round, whi l e the
fabul ous mosai cked wellness centre will have you not
cari ng to step outsi de at all. Q39 rooms (29 si ngl es
250z, 29 doubl es 350z, 1 apartments 480 - 600z).
PTJHARGKDW hhh
Wielopole D- 4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422
14 75, www.wielopole.pl. An i ncredi bl y good deal
found three mi nutes from the Ol d Town. Si mpl e, spot-
l ess and recommended, thi s hotel features a matey
wel come i n recepti on, and l arge rooms decked out i n
sof t browns. Q35 rooms (8 si ngl es 249z, 27 doubl es
349z, 6 tri pl es 429z). PTAR6ULGKW
hhh
Wyspiaski D- 3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48)
12 422 95 66, www.hotel - wyspianski.pl. Whi l e the
bl ocki sh faade doesn t promi se much, the Wyspiaski
i s wel l wor th ever y one of i ts three stars. Rooms have
been thoroughl y moderni sed and feature rather natty
patterned duvets, pri vate bathrooms and tel evi si ons.
The gl eami ng coaches regul arl y parked outsi de testi fy
to i ts popul ari ty amongst tour groups. Q231 rooms
(150 si ngl es 48 - 135, 109 doubl es 55 - 135, 81
tri pl es 81 - 170). OTYHA6ULGKW
hhh
Budget
Alf L-4, ul. Klimeckiego 24, tel. (+48) 12 656 19 42,
www.hotelalf.pl. A good deal for travellers willing to take
public transport in and out of town, rooms are old but clean
and bathrooms have been renovated. Take bus N115 from
the train station to the Szklarska stop or take tram N20 to
the Klimeckiego stop. Q115 rooms (36 singles 95 - 140z,
58 doubles 140 - 200z, 12 triples 190 - 245z, 12 suites
70 - 220z). THA6ULGKW hh
Aparthotel Sodispar I-1, ul. Lubelska 12, tel. (+48)
12 631 26 31, www.sodispar.pl. Comfortable flats and
rooms with names like Glasgow and Amsterdam rented
out for both short and long term stays (min three nights).
All rooms boast internet access, telephone and satellite
TV, as well as modern bathrooms. Apartments are in one
building fifteen minutes walk from the old town. Q13 rooms
(4 singles 20 - 40, 4 doubles 30 - 40, 4 triples 35 - 60,
4 quads 35 - 75, 3 apartments 35 - 70). No breakfast
served. PTRGW
Art- Mont C-1, ul. Krowoderska 27, tel. (+48) 12
429 17 78, www.art-mont.com. Found in a quiet and
interesting part of town alive with colourful shops and
people just north of the main centre, the clean i f some-
what Spartan rooms are packed with pine furniture and
little else. Some bathrooms are shared and others are
en suite, a couple of rooms have their own kitchens and
access to the internet is available to all. A good budget
option for people in town to make the most of the sights
who dont need the amenities offered by a hotel. Q10
rooms (10 singles 70 - 100z, 10 doubles 110 - 160z,
4 triples 160 - 200z, 3 quads 220 - 240z). Breakfast
12z. TAR6G
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Royal C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35
00, www.royal.com.pl. This utterly charming hotel in an art
nouveau turn of the century building gives you an experience
you could only have in Krakw, and thats a statement many
pricier hotels cant make. Authentic in every way - from the
reception area with a canopied desk, glass phone booth and
wonderful secessionist staircase, to the spacious rooms fitted
with pre-war furnishings, carpets and wallpapers - as Royals
facilities have been modernised (now garnering 3 stars) the style
has stayed exactly as it was a hundred years ago. The unbeat-
able location directly faces Wawel Castle from the confines of
Planty Park, and the ground floor Pod Wawelem restaurant is
another reason to recommend this romantic olde world hotel.
Its where we would stay in Krakw if we didnt already live here.
Q98 rooms (32 singles 230 - 340z, 33 doubles 330 - 485z, 9
triples 430 - 585z, 12 quads 530 - 685z, 9 suites 410 - 605z,
3 apartments 595 - 880z). TJHA6UGKW hhh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,
www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically styl-
ish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel
for those willing to taxi into town. All rooms boast unique bal-
conies and furnishings with an individual touch. Q45 rooms
(25 singles 150z, 17 doubles 210z, 12 triples 270z, 4 quads
330z, 4 suites 300z). PTHA6UKDW hhh
Saski C-2, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 42 22, www.
hotelsaski.com.pl. A classic hotel with big plant pots, tall windows
and rococo-style cabinets and sofas in each room. The hundred-
year-old lift which inches its way to the top can always be relied on
for some brief moments of entertainment. The Metropolitan res-
taurant, right next door, serves the best breakfast in Krakw. Q60
rooms (42 singles 195 - 260z, 33 doubles 260 - 320z, 5 triples
335 - 390z, 11 suites 380 - 510z). TJHA6KW hhh
Basztowa Guest Rooms D-2, ul. Basztowa 24, tel.
(+48) 12 429 51 81, www.hotelsinkrakow.pl. Neat
rooms between the train station and market square feature
parquet floors and a classic design accentuated by the use
of dark woods and oil paintings. Q26 rooms (22 singles
150z, 22 doubles 150z, 4 triples 195z). Breakfast 24z.
JA6G
Cybulskiego Guest-rooms A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 6,
tel. (+48) 12 423 05 32, www.freerooms.pl. Famous
for once claiming to have cattle in their rooms, Cybulskiego
have upgraded their accommodation and now offer small,
pleasant apartments armed with kitchenettes (with kettle),
bathrooms and parquet floors. Q16 rooms (16 singles
80 - 140z, 16 doubles 120 - 170z, 8 triples 150 - 190z).
THA6ULGW
Etap Krakw Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii Krajowej 11a,
tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.accorhotels.com. Some
distance from the city centre this place - like all Etap hotels
- offers terrific value for money. The tiny little rooms pack a
powerful punch and have comfy beds, televisions, enormous
windows and impressive bathrooms (with shower, no bath).
For what you pay you get a hell of a lot; recommended. Q120
rooms (120 singles 139 - 145z, 120 doubles 139 - 145z, 16
triples 139 - 145z). Breakfast 19z. PTA6UGW h
Home & Travel I-1, ul. Wrocawska 5a/1, tel. (+48)
12 633 80 80, www.hometravel.pl. Large, airy rooms
complete with leather couches, dataports and generously-
sized bathrooms. Theres plenty of attention to detail,
including sweets and water coolers in the hallway. Q18
274 - 294z, 1 quads 274z, 4 apartments 240 - 350z).
TJARLGW
38
WHERE TO STAY
39
WHERE TO STAY
Panorama I - 5, ul. Lipi ski ego 3/1, tel. (+48)
12 260 64 01, www.hotel - panorama.pl. Occupy-
i ng the bottom fl oors of a hi gh-apartment bl ock, the
Panoramas panorama may not be what you expect.
Rooms are stark and basi c, but al so cl ean and modern.
The curtai ns are i nef fecti ve agai nst a bri ght dawn. Q19
rooms (4 si ngl es 110 - 170z, 10 doubl es 150 - 240z,
5 tri pl es 195 - 290z, 1 sui tes 300 - 400z). TY
HA6UGDW hh
Patria J- 4, ul. Limanowskiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 656
22 60, www.hostel-patria.pl. A great choi ce for those
who want budget pri ces, but no drunk backpackers
throwi ng up i n the si nk. Dorm rooms are total l y new,
and boast sol i d pi ne beds, skyl i ghts and TV. Shared
bathrooms are spotl ess, and theres al so several pri -
vate rooms that sport ki tchenettes, showers and TV.
Breakfast i s served i n the adj oi ni ng fi sh restaurant.
Q20 rooms (20 si ngl es 60 - 120z, 20 doubl es 130 -
180z, 20 tri pl es 180 - 210z, 20 quads 200 - 240z).
TAGKW
Quality Hotel Krakw ul. Conrada 35 (Bronowice),
tel. (+48) 12 290 80 00, www.qualityinn.com. A stark
modern exterior, not too di fferent from the structures found
in retail parks, is the home of the best deal in Krakw. Youll
probably find yoursel f taking a taxi to town, but at these
prices youll find plenty of loose change to play with. The
lobby comes in startling orange shades, with PC terminals
al l owi ng guests free i nternet use, whi l e rooms come
with a few-frills design that nonetheless looks modern
and includes TV, tel ephone and shower. Q106 rooms
(106 singles 149z, 101 doubles 149z). Breakfast 25z.
THA6UGKW hhh
Rubens J- 4, ul. Rejtana 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 58
34, www.hotel - rubens.pl . You l l fi nd the Rubens
perched j ust across Most Pi l sudski ego i n a restored
pr oper t y dat i ng f r om 1910. Wood f l oor ed r ooms
have a touch of the ol d worl d about them and i ncl ude
patterned rugs, pai nti ngs and fl owers, whi l e at the
same ti me touti ng modern day necessi ti es such as
i nternet access and TV. Q13 rooms (1 si ngl es 99z,
5 doubl es 169z, 3 tri pl es 220z, 1 quads 280z ).
TAR6GK
Start H- 5, ul. Kapelanka 60, tel. (+48) 12 269
22 10, www.hotelstart.com.pl. A recent renovati on
to thi s 1980s bl ock has rai sed the star-rati ng of thi s
hotel to 2-stars and Start now of fer cl ean, comfort-
abl e and very af fordabl e accommodati on a 10-mi nute
taxi ri de away from the ci ty centre. TV and en-sui te
bathrooms throughout as wel l as on-si te conference
faci l i ti es and restaurant are avai l abl e. Q66 rooms (42
si ngl es 140 - 160z, 42 doubl es 160 - 180z, 14 tri pl es
200 - 220z, 9 quads 220 - 240z, 2 apartments 350z).
THA6UGKW hh
Tournet D- 6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292
00 88, www. accommodati on.krakow.pl . Excel -
l ent pension-styl e accommodation in the heart of the
Kazimi erz quarter. Rooms come wi th cl ean bathrooms,
col our ful duvets and ef fecti ve heating. The more expen-
si ve rooms have TVs and huge doubl e beds, whil e all
have a kettl e and alarm cl ock. And there have recentl y
expanded wi th the openi ng of the Czarny Koci o ( The
Black Caul dron) restaurant downstairs. Q17 rooms (17
singl es 100 - 140z, 16 doubl es 120 - 180z, 10 tripl es
220z). TAGKW
Apartments
Hotels are just so passe, you know? Honestly, the market in
Krakw is ideal for short-term apartment stay and the city is
littered with literally hundreds of them, many in outstandingly
central centuries-old locations. Not only does staying in an
apartment afford you more privacy, space and comfort, it
also helps you feel less like a tourist and more like part of
the neighbourhood. Best of all, in most cases, apartment
rental actually represents a better value for your money than
a traditional hotel stay. If youre travelling in a group, with the
family or even just your spouse, we recommend looking into
apartment rental when considering accommodation options
in Krakw; below weve listed some of the best.
NEW
Antique Apartments B-2, Plac Szczepaski 2, tel.
(+48) 12 430 21 67, www.antiqueapartments.com. A
company offering a whole host of apartments throughout
Krakow with all mod-cons, good standards and lots of nice
local touches such as ceramic stoves. Look out for those
apartments located in a building a stones throw from the
main market square. Q39 rooms (39 apartments 180 -
420z). Breakfast 20z. TALKW
Apartamenty Muzyczny Krakw B-2, ul. Karmelicka
5, tel. (+48) 692 42 82 11, www.muzyczny-krakow.
com. Proprietors of two locations in the Old Town, with five
fine apartments on ul. Karmelicka (B-5) and three more even
closer to the market square at ul. Gobia (B-3). The nicely
furnished Karmelicka apartments link the past with the present
in design and detail and amenities include washing machines,
electric cooking ranges and wifi. Meanwhile the Gobia location
operates more as a budget hotel with guest rooms (with private
bathrooms and hallway kitchen annexes) and three apartments
of a slightly lesser standard aimed at larger groups. Families
and couples may favour Karmelicka, but the Gobia location is
one of the best values weve seen, especially for large groups
that book ahead. Q11 rooms (8 singles 129 - 189z, 8 doubles
160 - 289z, 3 triples 190 - 340z, 2 quads - 239 - 295z, 8
apartments 160 - 505z). Breakfast 15z at Gobia location;
no breakfast served on Karmelicka. T6LGW
Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriaska 39, tel. (+48)
12 431 00 26, www.apartmentskrakow.eu. Several
locations around the historic centre - including Floriaska
and Grodzka - with accommodation fitting up to six people.
Take a look at these prices, they are basically unbeatable.
All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, cable TV
and internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant
modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged.
Q18 rooms (18 apartments 120 - 300z). Breakfast 16z.
TJA6ULGKW
Apartmenthouse Grodzka
4 Grodzka Street
open daily: 11 a.m. - 9 p.m.
phone/fax: +48 12 421 48 35, kom: +48 660 541 085
e-mail: info@krakowforyou.com
Apartmenthouse Grodzka C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel. (+48)
12 421 48 35, www.grodzka.net.pl. Top-rate accommodation
with facilities that include fridge, LAN and cable TV. The interiors are
a tasteful mix of old and new: original brickwork and timber touches
combined with chic designer furnishings. Q11 rooms (11 apart-
ments 180 - 450z). Breakfast 25z. THAR6FGDW
Apartments ORLOWSKA TOWNHOUSE Krakow
C-2, ul. Sawkowska 26, tel. (+48) 508 99 79 79, www.
apartments-cracow-oldtown.com. Five high class apart-
ments fitted with hand woven rugs over stripped wood floors,
luxurious carved wood beds and deep pillows. Dark wood
antiques and views of old Krakw complete your immersion
into this regal city. It should come as no surprise the own-
ers behind this operation are the same team behind one of
Krakws finest dining experiences, Cyrano de Bergerac, in
which guests will receive a 10% discount. Q5 rooms (5 apart-
ments 70 - 105). Breakfast 20-25z. PTHR6LGK
10%
discount
just like
home
Plac Szczepaski 2
31-011 Krakw
tel. +48 430 21 67, +48 664 056 605
booking@aapt.pl, www.antiqueapartments.com
In Poland, name days (imieniny) are widely celebrated
and have traditionally been given a greater importance
than birthday celebrations, particularly as one gets on
in years. Printed in every local calendar, these name
days represent the feast days of Catholic saints. Every
day of the year is assigned two saints one male, one
female and chances are if you share a name with a
saint (as almost all Poles do), you too have a Polish name
day. Some names are even repeated more than once in
a calendar year, in which case you celebrate the name
day which falls furthest in the year from your birthday.
Name Day celebrations in Poland are social events,
traditionally involving the gathering of friends and fam-
ily at the celebrants home or in the bar of their choice.
Differing slightly from western birthday celebrations in
which the celebrant is often seen as a guest of honour
and might expect to be bought drinks all night, in name
day gatherings the celebrant traditionally plays the role
of host, buying drinks for friends and ensuring that guests
are taken care of. In return, guests should bring small
gifts (typically chocolate, flowers or vodka) as you would
on someones birthday. The Polish birthday song Sto Lat
(A Hundred Years) is sung, and its mindless simplicity
might be tempting for foreigners to criticise until they
reflect on just how dreadful the English happy birthday
song actually is. Name Days are so important to Polish
culture that in Krakw, they are prominently displayed
in all of the citys trams, thereby ensuring that you know
who you should be buying flowers for that day; information
that youll find less readily available on these same trams
is the name of the line or the destination of its next stop.
Polish Name Days (Imieniny)
40
WHERE TO STAY
41
WHERE TO STAY
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12
422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. These high standard
apartments right in the heart of the city come furnished in
a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing scarlet and
white colours. All have microwave ovens, air-conditioning,
hairdryers and high-speed internet connection, however
the hike up to the third floor may not suit all guests. Q21
189 - 269z, 3 quads 189 - 269z, 7 apartments 365 - 727z).
PTAR6GKW
Cracow Lofts D- 6, ul. Boego Ciaa 7, tel. (+48)
608 26 04 05, www.cracowlofts.com. I f youre looking
for something a little more Brooklyn than typically Polish,
contact these guys. Small but sharp lofted apartments
and studios are available in great locations, particularly
Kazimierz. Their limited number ensures extra care and bet-
ter service, including itinerary help, airport pick-up, and you
can even rent a retro bike to complement your Brooklynite
living space. Booking available through the website. Q11
rooms (11 apartments 80 - 160z). No breakfast served.
PTAR6W
Golden Lion Apartments B-3, ul. Szewska 19, tel.
(+48) 12 422 93 23, www.goldenlion.pl. A set of at-
tractively furnished rooms catering for groups of up to five
people. Rooms come in soft brown shades, some furnished
with a couple of period flourishes and a kitchenette. A shared
kitchen and dining room is also available for the independent
cook. Laundry service is available, and checkout times can
be negotiated. Q11 rooms (11 apartments 180 - 400z).
PTA6GW
Krakw City Apartments D-2, ul. Szpitalna 34,
tel. (+48) 504 23 59 25, www.krakowapartments.
info. Lodge insi de a 100-year-ol d Ol d Town buil ding wi th
rooms overl ooki ng a courtyard, guaranteei ng a good
ni ghts rest. Li ft access means theres no lugging bags
up stairs, and apartments come with modern furnishings,
li ving room and ki tchen. Most can handl e four guests,
wi th one apartment sl eeping up to seven guests. Q12
rooms (12 apartments 170 - 450z). No breakfast served.
TARGW
Krakw Homes J- 3, ul. Odona Bujwida 1/1- 3,
tel. (+48) 509 82 82 22, www.krakowhomes.com.
These ni ne astoni shi ng apar tments, draf ted by top
desi gners, will certainl y gi ve your stay in Krakw a bi t
more flair than a conventionall y classy hotel room - for
about the same money. Recommended by BBC Good
Homes, these peerl ess apartments feature a pl ethora
of plasma TVs, a jacuzzi in one case, and more aesthetic
accoutrements such as a zen garden - embedded i n
the actual fl oor of the flat. Combining simpli ci ty, styl e,
el egance and attention to detail, finer flats are hard to
find. Q9 rooms (9 apartments 50 - 200). Breakfast
10. PTARLGDW
Off White Business & Leisure Apartments E-6,
ul. Kupa 6, tel. (+48) 12 376 40 40, www.offwhite.pl.
This new apartment building in Kazimierz offers modern
minimalist sui tes and studios for the i Pod generation,
available for short or long-term stays. With eight apart-
ments over four floors, the top two levels are occupied
by the superb penthouse with a fireplace, skylights and
a private entrance with its own elevator. Aptly named,
these suites dont dare wander off the greyscale, so be
careful your wardrobe doesnt embarrass you by ruining the
uber-chic aesthetic. Q9 rooms (9 apartments 70 - 140).
PTHAR6GKW
Red Brick D-1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. (+48) 12 628 66
00, www.redbrick.pl. Named after the renovated 19th
century red brick building that houses this magnificent set
of apartments. These are superb lodgings and inspite of
the historical surrounds accommodation touts all the trap-
pings of the modern world; from 32 inch televisions to fully
fitted modern kitchens. Those looking to splash out should
consider booking the two level apartment, equipped to host
as many as six people. The customer is king here and Red
Brick can provide transport to and from the airport, as well
as shopping services so all that you need is already sitting
on the shelves upon your arrival. Q16 rooms (16 apartments
260 - 460z). Breakfast 25z. TAR6LGW
Royal Plaza Apartments A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 24,
tel. (+48) 12 422 36 17, www.royalplazaapartments.
com. An excellent Old Town location within easy walking
distance from Wawel marks Royal Plaza out as a new one to
watch. Beyond the tantalising name and an award-winning
building find no less than five gloriously appointed living
spaces complete with modern fittings and all mod cons
including wireless internet and, as winter approaches, much
appreciated under-floor heating. Prices are comparable to
an average hotel room, and with the addition of a lift this
one is definitely worth further investigation.Q5 rooms (5
apartments 210 - 320z). PTHAFDW
Sekret Kazimierza E- 6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48)
693 12 48 14, www.kazimierzs-secret.com. Situated
on the upper floors of a 19th century Kazimierz tene-
ment buil ding, there are ten apartments to pick from,
all decorated in their own unique style. Choose from the
cl ean, li ght col oured l oft apartment named Ameri can
Dream or the Deutsch Apartment which sleeps six and
includes French windows looking onto a courtyard and
a scattering of traditional German keepsakes. Dont let
the homely style fool you, all accommodation is equipped
with modern kitchens, high speed internet access and CD
players should you be travelling with your music collection.
Q10 rooms (10 apartments 170 - 380z). No breakfast
served. TAR6G
Sleeping in Krakw C-2, ul. Sawkowska 4/9, tel.
(+48) 601 29 22 92, www.sleepingincracow.com. This
might possibly be the best private apartment in the city. This
enormous two-bedroom property is right in the city centre
and comes with a great optional extra, what they call the full-
fridge option. Yes, for an extra fee they will fill up the chiller
with tons of goodies. Brilliant. Q6 rooms (6 apartments 170
- 300z). Breakfast 22.50z. PTA6GW
Venetian House C-3, Rynek Gwny 11, tel. (+48)
12 346 46 69, www.venetian-house.com. If you want
to keep your finger on the pulse of Krakw, you cant do
any better than staying spot on Rynek Gwny - the cultural
heart of the entire country. The only apartment hotel located
on the main market square, Venetian House offers 14 four-
star quality apartments at prices that have rather shocked
the competition. Modern and elegant, yet simply furnished,
all apartments come fully equipped with air con-, cable TV
and wifi, and 8 offer views overlooking the largest market
square in Europe. Q14 rooms (14 apartments 300 - 550z).
No breakfast served. PTJAUGW
Krakow, ul. Kupa 6
www.ofwhite.pl info@ofwhite.pl
Follow POLANDIYP on
42
WHERE TO STAY
43
WHERE TO STAY
Hostels & Dorms
It used to be a day couldnt go by without a new hostel
opening in Krakw, and our guess is the numbers
peaked somewhere near 70 in the summer of 2006.
Though many have closed doors since, more continue
to open and there is certainly no shortage of beds for
the prospective backpacker in Krakw, with the quality
and value of hostels in the city being incredibly high.
That said, the best are routinely booked full months in
advance, so i f you just turn up without a bunk during
high season youll almost certainly find one, but it might
not be located quite where youd prefer (ie, above your
favourite nightclub). While we dont have space here to
list every cot in Cracow, below weve included the best
of the bunch. Sleep it off.
Basia Hostel E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki, tel. (+48)
602 63 77 28, www.barkabasia.pl. A magni fi cent
i dea for a hostel, Basia is a fairl y large boat compl ete
wi th a bar-restaurant for the ul ti mate l ow budget ac-
commodation experi ence. Theres si x doubl e rooms on
board, communal bathrooms, free wirel ess internet, free
bedding and a tel evision in the common room shoul d you
need i t. Luxury i t isn t, but i f youre l ooking for a wacky
bedtime experi ence youll find Basia pretty hard to beat.
Q6 rooms (6 singl es 70 - 80z, 6 doubl es 80 - 100z).
Breakfast 10z. A6GKW
City Hostel D- 3, ul. w. Krzya 21, tel. (+48) 12
426 18 15, www.cityhostel.pl. The bi ggest hostel
i n Krakw, j ust mi nutes from both the Rynek and trai n
stati on, so expect i t to be swamped wi th l arge groups.
Rooms run from wel l -mai ntai ned pri vate doubl es to
el even bed dorms, and each come wi th ensui te bath-
rooms; al l sti l l i n sparkl i ng shape. Thi s i s one of the few
hostels in town equipped to handl e disabl ed guests, and
other bonuses i ncl ude free l ockers and free breakfast
for earl y bi rds. Q18 rooms (1 si ngl es 80z, 5 doubl es
120z, 1 tri pl es 165z, 3 quads 200z, 21 Dorm beds
35z). A6UG
Flamingo Hostel B- 3, ul. Szewska 4, tel. (+48)
12 422 00 00, www.flamingo- hostel.com. Consi s-
tentl y ranked as one of the best hostel s, not onl y i n
Krakw but the worl d, Fl ami ngo bui l ds i ts reputati on
on the fri endl i ness of the staf f and thei r wi l l i ngness to
gi ve guests personal tours of the ci tys seedy ni ghtl i fe,
much of whi ch takes pl ace di rectl y across the street.
Smal l, col our ful and comfortabl e wi th a ni ce common
area, rooms range i n si ze from doubl es to ten bed dor-
mi tori es and the faci l i ti es on of fer i ncl ude free i nternet
use, l aundry, ki tchen and a l ovel y gl ass-covered out-
door di ni ng area. Q12 rooms (6 doubl es 130 - 160z,
1 tri pl es 120 - 150z, 1 quads 160 - 200z, 54 Dorm
beds 40 - 70z). AGW
Good Bye Lenin J-3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12
421 20 30, www.goodbyelenin.pl. Socialist realist post-
ers hang from the walls inside this original commie-themed
hostel, and the common room even touts a vintage TV from
the 50s. Dorms come with wooden bunk beds, and sleep no
more than ten maximum, the free breakfast is more generous
than most, theres an internet room available, and if you let
them, the owners will probably buy you shots all night in the
downstairs bar. If fully booked try their second location in the
Old Town (C-3, ul. Grodzka 34), and consider a visit to their
Zakopane location across from Tatra National Park. Q14
rooms (4 doubles 140 - 150z, 70 Dorm beds 40 - 60z).
A6GW
Morawica Morawica 285, tel. (+48) 12 285
58 00, www.motell.pl. Morawica is close to Balice
Airport and has easy access to Katowice and Krakw
highways. Clean, modern rooms and extras such as
sauna, restaurant, petrol station and car wash. Q32
rooms (32 singles 120z, 32 doubles 160z). Breakfast
18z. PTHA6UGKDW hhh
Neohotel Airport ul. Topolowa 12, Rzska, tel.
(+48) 12 626 06 88, www.neohotel.pl. 3km from
the airport, this conveniently located layover hotel has
a bit more going for it. More closely resembling a house
than a high-rise immediately lends it that apt home-away-
home cliche and the small, tastefully modern rooms feel
fresh-pressed and uncreased. With more apartments
and suites than single rooms, its a little unclear why
you and your pals would want to get so comfortable so
far from Krakw, but if youve got a reason, take it here.
9 suites 199 - 320z, 1 apartments 370z). Breakfast
20z. PTAR6UGW
Pod Kamykiem ul. Balicka 51, Rzska, tel. (+48)
12 636 17 48, www.podkamykiem.pl. If youve got
an early morning flight then a night at Pod Kamykiem
is well worth considering. Three kilometers from the
airport, this is everything youd expect from a Krakow-
ian pension: a huge suburban house with clean rooms
furnished in a plain, prim style. Q10 rooms (10 singles
150z, 10 doubles 220z, 10 triples 280z). Breakfast
25z. TAR6LGW hh
Airport Hotels
Good Bye Lenin Lets Rock C-3, ul. Grodzka 34,
tel. (+48) 12 430 30 53, www.goodbyelenin.pl. Built on
the success of their ventures in Kazimierz and Zakopane,
Good Bye Lenins latest effort is located right on the royal
route between the market square and Wawel. Playing free
love hippie culture ying to the communist kitsch Iron Curtain
yang of their original venture, here youll find all the same
advantages of late check-out, free wifi, free large lockers,
free towels (deposit necessary) and linen, and a rockin
breakfast buffet that continue to make the Good Bye Lenin
team one of the best in Krakw for cheap comfortable ac-
commodation. Q8 rooms (2 doubles 130z, 46 Dorm beds
29 - 55z). A6GW
Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. (+48) 12 422
41 00, www.gregtomhostel.com. A top hostel with a
close-by second location on ul. Warszawska 16/5 (D-1).
Both offer internet, DVD player and bike rental, as well as
hostel standards such as free laundry, kitchen and linen.
Aside from a guaranteed warm welcome, the biggest boon
here is a refusal to pack rooms out with as many beds
as possible, making it ideal for travelling couples. Clean,
modern furnishings, this is as chi c as hostelling gets.
Another third central location is now at ul. Zyblikiewicza
9 (D-3) and 2 apartments at ul. w Jana 13 (C-2). Q15
rooms (12 doubles 140 - 170z, 3 quads 280z, 23 Dorm
beds 55 - 70z). AGW
Mamas C-3, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 429 59 40,
www.mamashostel.com.pl. This 15th century building
formerly housed a cinema and a photo gallery and Ania, the
propreitor, has gone to pains to preserve this artsy legacy.
Comfortable furniture and sepia photographs decorate
the common room, and a small balcony looks out onto
the courtyard. Sunny dorms come with heavy pine beds
certi fied to hold individuals weighing up to 300 pounds.
Q7 rooms (1 doubles 160 - 180z, 54 Dorm beds 45 -
60z). AGW
Momotown D-6, ul. Miodowa 28, tel. (+48) 12 429
69 29, www.momotownhostel.com. The outside wall
of this budget (yes, even by hostel standards) hostel is
the first thing that will catch your eye: weird graffiti such
as Jeanette, the best a man can get clearly aimed at the
drunken student niche. Inside expect standard dorm rooms,
decent bathrooms and friendly, multi-lingual staff who have
clearly been trained to explain every rule and regulation to
every customer. No lockout, curfew or checkout. Additional
rooms available nearby on picturesque Szeroka Street.
2 triples 165 - 210z, 4 quads 200z, 52 Dorm beds 35 -
50z). ALGW
Mundo D- 4, ul. Jzefa Sarego 10, tel. (+48) 12
422 61 13, www.mundohostel.eu. Wi th one of the
hi ghest overal l standards i n town, Mundo was ranked
one of the top 10 hostel s i n the worl d i n 2007. I deal for
coupl es on a ti ght budget l ooki ng for pri vacy ami dst a
soci al envi ronment, the emphasi s here i s on doubl e
rooms rather than dorms, as youl l fi nd few of the
l atter and ei ght of the former: si x wi th proper doubl e
beds, though onl y one wi th a pri vate bathroom. Al l the
rooms are mi ni mal l y decorated i n a styl e associ ated
wi th vari ous countri es as di verse as Ti bet, Hawai i and
Russi a. Located i n a qui et l ocati on between the Pl anty
and Kazi mi erz, there is a relaxing pati o, a large common
room, ki tchen area and bar, whi l e other advantages
i ncl ude bi ke rental, i nternet and free breakfast. Q12
rooms (9 si ngl es 120z, 9 doubl es 160 - 180z, 16 Dorm
beds 45 - 50z). AGW
Nathans Villa Hostel C-6, ul. w. Agnieszki 1, tel.
(+48) 12 422 35 45, www.nathansvilla.com. Krakws
original hostel. Thereve been a million copycats since, but
none do it better. Thats partly down to Nathan, a man who
takes the happiness of his guests seriously - even if it that
means drinking till dawn with them. Theres a bit of a reputa-
tion for revelry here, and youll find the party in the basement
where a network of chambers house a bar, billiards room and
even a mini-cinema. But this is more than just a hedonists
hostel, as proven by the top-notch conditions of dorms and
bathrooms. Wi fi and public computer is available on the
ground floor and ensuite privates have been added to cater
to the higher-class of backpacker as well. Q21 rooms (4
singles 164 - 184z, 4 doubles 160 - 180z, 1 apartments
308z, 114 Dorm Beds 42 - 62z). JA6GW
Secret Garden Hostel & Pension D-7, ul. Skawiska
7, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl.
Secret Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost
options, and its also one of the best. Certainly the most
colourful, quarters come with names that leave no doubt
over what colours to expect on opening the door, from
Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms
come with comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms
are neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrought iron
furnishings and colourful bed spreads. The common room
features low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the
test, plus theres laundry services, free internet access
and a garden for barbecues i f the season is right. Secret
Garden Hostel also has a small guest house just north of
the Old Town and a fantastic little apartment close to the
main hostel. Q23 rooms (16 singles 85 - 99z, 16 doubles
130 - 160z, 4 triples 165z, 1 quads 200z, 14 Dorm beds
50z). TAR6UGW
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44
RESTAURANTS
45
RESTAURANTS
American
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. The international Hard
Rock Caf chain has set up shop on some of the citys most
hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica. Inside youll find
an absurdly large number of staff members milling around
amongst rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton Johns
spectacles to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish
legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over
three levels, stop by to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a
scarf John Lennon once wore. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (24-
89z). PTAUGSW
Jeffs J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel.
(+48) 12 433 03 30, www.jeffs.pl. Youll find Jeffs
inside a shopping mall but that does nothing to deter the
American expats and well-heeled locals who use the place.
This is your classic TGIs-style affair, only these guys do it a
little better, with both the steak and ribs regularly eliciting
glowing reports from Yank exiles. Staff with sugar smiles in
skimpy denim shorts keep the drinks flowing while interiors
are your standard soup of road signs and number plates.
Live music every Friday and Saturday from 17:00 to 21:00
and Sunday from 14:00 to 17:30. That bit of info may well
be the deal-clincher or killer depending on your penchant for
eating with music in the background. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
(19-69z). PTAUEXSW
Love Krove D-6, ul. Jzefa 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 15
06. Too gourmet to be considered American-style, Love
Krove takes the burger concept and pushes it beyond your
expectations; in fact, well beyond the capacity of your open
mouth and maybe your stomach too. These burgers are
so stacked with tantalising toppings (including guacamole,
gorgonzola, rucola, chorizo and more) you can hardly fit them
in your face, and its good sport watching the locals try to
knife and fork them (sigh). Served on a fresh roll with a side
of perfectly fried potato wedges, most of the burgers on the
menu come overflowing with mustard, mayo, salsa or sauce,
meaning you may want to build your own to make eating less
of a mess. The pop elements of the small white interior,
including the absurdly hip cartoon mural, are a nice change
of pace, and no matter how you like your burger, if you like
them at all, youll enjoy the comforts of Love Krove. QOpen
12:00 - 21:00. (14-18z). TA6GSW
Rooster B-2, ul. Szczepaska 4, tel. (+48) 12 411 36
72, www.rooster.pl. The equivalent of Americas tasteless
Hooters chain, despite this being Poland the poor girls look
just as bad in their tiny orange shorts which create an almost
blinding glare against their artificially tanned legs. Luckily
theres sports on the box and good value upmarket burger-
fare to tuck into so nobody notices you leering. Heaven for
lads, and especially dads who can always convince the wife
and kids thanks to a well-segregated non-smoking section,
kids menu, play area and even a toy with the meal. In summer
the rooftop terrace is a treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 01:00. (19-48z). TJAXSW
Sioux Classic C-3, Rynek Gwny 22, tel. (+48) 12
421 34 62, www.sioux.krakow.pl. This franchise does
cowboy and injun kitsch at its finest. Beautiful squaws and
amateur ranch-hands in ten-gallon hats swagger about the
cattle wrangling decor, serving pseudo-Mexican and Ameri-
can chow to customers inside stagecoachs. Its all in good
fun, with outrageous ambiance and a hysterical English menu
(featuring dishes like Steak a la Blunt Arrow in Bisons Rump)
making up for the inevitable kraut and pickles in your burrito.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-100z). PTJA6GSW
SomePlace Else A- 5, ul. Powi le 7 (Sheraton
Krakw), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, www.sheraton.com/
krakow. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than
a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a
one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of
Uncle Sams favourite bar food including nachos and some
other Tex-Mex offerings. As the rock memorabilia and diner
dcor suggests, this place doesnt take itself as seriously
as most hotel eateries, and its one of your best bets for
catching the game of your choice, be it NFL or MLB. Loosen
the tie and belt at the same time. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (40-90z).
PTAUX
Yummie B-3, Rynek Gowny 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 34
44, www.yummie.pl. If you support the slow evolution of
Krakows UNESCO-listed market square into a shopping
mall food court, theres no better way to put your money
where your mouth is than at Yummie. The menu consists
almost entirely of frighteningly large chicken parts, chicken
burgers and more chicken inventions, though it would be
unfair if we failed to mention the Enemies of Chicken sec-
tion whose three options are steak, salmon and ribs (for all
you vegetarians out there). The seasonal outdoor seating is
a godsend compared to the boring brick interior piped with
cheesy music which somehow manages to impose fast food
franchise appeal onto some of the most regal real estate in
Europe. Poles get a pass, but you get a punch in the mouth
if we catch you eating here. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (14-35z). PTAGSW
Austrian
Austriacki Smak D-6, ul. Meiselsa 11, tel. (+48) 12
357 90 50. In what appears to be the heartfelt work of a
husband and wi fe team, this lovingly styled albeit pleas-
antly understated offering to the world of Austrian dining
features a wealth of dishes that once graced the tables of
the city during its period of Austrian rule. Alongside the more
household treats of Tyrolean ham, rosti and strudel sits other
less well-known nosh including Alpine pizza (your guess is
as good as ours) and something called grstl. Theres also
mouth-watering chocolate cake for those with room left to
shovel more in after their mains plus the added bonus of
a log-burning stove for those ghastly Krakw winter days.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (15-38z). TIVGSW
Bagels
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierzs
link wi th the western world, Bagelmama has swapped
neighbouring synagogues, ending up across from the oldest
such building in Poland. Fitting place, as it could have easily
With the development of the market in Krakow, the num-
ber and diversity of places to eat has become incredibly
wide. Thats not to say that its all good, as ethnic cuisines
continue to be brutalised in an attempt to make them
more acceptable to Polish palates and some industry
insiders will even tell you Krakws esteemed culinary
rep is a bit generous.
Added to that the sheer number of places available now
means that while you dont have to search for a place
to eat it is worth taking a moment to find a place worth
your custom and time as well as being aware of those
places with prime location worth avoiding. Our print guide
carries a wide selection of those while our website and
iphone app carry even more.
The figures we quote in brackets are the cheapest and
costliest main courses on the menu. The opening hours
we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough
guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
youre looking for.
Splurge
Wierzynek remains the king of Krakw - the citys oldest
restaurant, right on the Rynek. Wentzl and Pod Ra are
arguably not far behind, but if you want fine dining that doesnt
bludgeon you over the head with huge hunks of meat, our
top picks are the French Cyrano de Bergerac and the
sophisticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus.
Cheap
A traditional Polish milk bar is as cheap as youll eat
anywhere with a menu in your life, and the clearly marked
Bar Mleczny at ul. Grodzka 43 is the easiest to find.
For something Polish with a bit of atmosphere try Pola-
kowski. If youre not a fan of Polish food, Bagelmama
is tough to beat or head to Momo for something healthy
and - youll never guess - green.
Lads
Rooster remains the default choice for stag dos thanks
to the visual feast the staff provide, or visit Jeffs where
the skimpy outfits are less of a fashion disaster. For local
feed try Pod Wawelem where huge portions of meat are
served with side dishes of more meat - enough to make
the most carnivorous caveman consider a light salad for
his next meal - and the bathroom features a vomitorium
for those who over-consume.
Families
Take the nippers to Sioux for wild west dcor and a
kids menu, or better yet, drag them to Pod Wawelem
or Lodziarnia (see Cafes) - home to the citys two best
rumpus rooms - where theyll wear themselves out in the
ball pit while you devour hunks of meat and drain steins
of lager in the former, or debate the merits of coffee vs.
cocktails in the latter. Everybody wins.
Couples
Finding a romantic spot in this city is not difficult. The city
itself is a marvellous backdrop for a romantic weekend
and with cafes and restaurants seemingly on every cor-
ner and tucked into picturesque courtyards you shouldnt
have to search far for something. Our trips though are
Resto Illuminati, Marmolada and Aqua e Vino or for a
particularly memorable evening, take a cab out to enjoy
the outstanding views at U Ziyada.
Dining at a Glance
been Jews of this very synagogue that invented the doughy
ring all those years ago before emigrating to America. Yank
owner Nava has brought that tradition back to Krakw with
Bagelmama, the big, bright caf where he scurries back
and forth filling orders, refilling coffees and chatting with
customers. A variety of fresh bagels come with the toppings
of your choice, with options including sun-dried tomato cream
cheese, humus, al fal fa sprouts, fresh salmon and more.
Also more than worth a mention is the welcome return of
the Bagelmama burrito. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00
- 19:00. (7-15z). TA6UVGSW
Chinese
Bei Jing A-3, Pl. Sikorskiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 357 50 87.
This might be Krakws most authentic Chinese restaurant,
vouched for by the three dozen Chinese students that inex-
plicably marched in as we were leaving. Choose from a large
ul. Dajwr 10, Krakw - Kazimierz, tel. 12 346 16 46, www.bagelmama.com
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La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town
The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
46
RESTAURANTS
47
RESTAURANTS
variety of traditional dishes with vague descriptions featuring
all manner of meats, seaweed and even tofu (though you
better ask to ensure tofu dishes dont also include meat,
ours did). Prices and quality are generally higher than most
local Chinese outfits and the waitress offers honest advice
about how to order well. A page of the menu has been ad-
justed to Polish taste, which also extends to the picture of
the Pope which interrupts the typical red and gold interior of
paper lanterns and folding fans. Spend over 50z and you
even get 2 fortune cookies (in badly translated Polish) at the
end. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-58z).
A6GSW
Czech
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel.
(+48) 12 426 01 01. Presumably the Bohumil side of
this unique enterprise, Diego i Bohumil combines Czech
and Argentinean cuisine in one locale through the friend-
ship of the two owners. The menu is split evenly between
the two, and the multi-lingual menu helpfully explains that
almost every Czech entree can be easily explained as a
slight variation on a familiar Polish dish like goulash, potato
pancakes or fried cheese; not that thats a bad thing.
Simple, solid and affordable, DiB is big on friendly, not
fancy, making it a great place for after-work gatherings,
watching a football match or relaxing on the quiet terrace
(in season). While the Argentinean wines are well-stocked,
perhaps the biggest disappointment is the lack of Czech
beer other than Bernard pilsner. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(13-36z). TAIGSW
French
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sawkowska 26, tel.
(+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl.
Krakws finest French restaurant is a magni ficent white
tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout
the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras
and the occasional experimental hit. Located in a medieval
cellar against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries, if youre
going to push the boat out while youre in town, there are few
better places to push it than here, and thats a fact recognized
by none other than the Michelin Guide. If youve no boat to
push, drop by between 12:00 and 17:00 for unbeatable
value during lunch (9-32z). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (9-89z). PTAR6EX
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. The courtyard ter-
race is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the
interior has a pleasing elegance as well when theres a gale
outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained
staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does the
chef, clearly, as he turns out classics such as veal in a port
wine sauce, or fresh foie gras with port and armagnac. The
set tasting menus are a good value at 65z. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (22-58z). PTA6XSW
Paese C-4, ul. Poselska 24, tel. (+48) 12 421 62 73,
www.paese.com.pl. This veteran Corsican restaurant
offers a bit of romance in an extremely pleasant maritime
Mediterranean interior full of wicker furniture, a fireplace,
fishing nets, lanterns, old maps and a thatched ceiling. High-
lights of the menu are the Corsican bean soup with bacon
and garlic (11z), while the fish platter and beef fondue offer
an extremely good deal to couples. What you really shouldnt
miss are the desserts, sorbets and French wines, making
Paese recommended for dining for all. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(19-39z). PTA6GSW
Fusion
NEW
Edo Fusion D-6, ul. Miodowa 8, tel. (+48) 12 426
24 24. A poke in the eye for anyone who claims that the
Krakow restaurant scene has reached bursting point. The
chaps at Edo Sushi have expanded into the premises next
door and opened a fusion restaurant which has met with
a positive reaction from the locals straight off based on
our reconnaissance. The high standards set in the original
sushi joint are carried over and the modern interior with
lots of green, is a calming space to enjoy dishes such as
yaki gyoza (Japanese dumplings) or a delicious sirloin steak
marinated in salt and pepper. A great place to eat before
setting off to explore the nearby Pl. Nowy nightli fe scene.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (24-51z).
PTAUGSW
Georgian
Gruziskie Chaczapuri C-2, ul. Floriaska 26, tel.
(+48) 509 54 28 02, www.chaczapuri.pl. For reasons
we simply cant comprehend, this Georgian food franchise
seems to have taken over the Old Town. Equally incompre-
hensible is how with a menu so vast everything comes out of
the kitchen virtually the same - sketchy meat of your choice,
shredded lettuce and cheese wrapped in a stale tortilla,
preceded by a frozen dinner roll; no disrespect to Stalins
homeland, but thats hardly the most original take on cuisine.
Affordable, sure, but essentially a rip-off when you consider
the cost to the kitchen, whose late hours nonetheless make
this place popular with large parties more preoccupied with
their tipple than nosh inside the rustic interior. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (15-35z). TAGSW
We invite you to enjoy our
original Indian dishes.
Catering service available
LL. SAwK0wSKA I3I5
PB0NE: uI2 4232282
www.INBLS.PL, INBLSINBLS.PL
0PEN I2:uu22:uu, FRISAT I2:uu24:uu
TBE BEST INBIAN CLISINE IN T0wN
Greek
Akropolis C-5, ul. Grodzka 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 77
25. They do Greek food here, but its certainly not as the
gods intended. Sit inside amid a flimsy interior of Doric
pillars and wall frescoes or else form a line outside their
kebab window i f youre curious to learn what it feels like
to have your guts skewered by Neptunes trident. QOpen
09:00 - 05:00, Fri 09:00 - 06:00, Sat 09:00 - 07:00. (17-
25z). TGS
Hungarian
Balaton C- 4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. (+48) 12 422 04
69, www.balaton.krakow.pl. A surprise resul t on the
Krakw dining scene. Sure i t l ooks seedy but the good
news is that the servi ce is excell ent and the food rep-
resents one of the best deals youll find. The fish soup
acts as an excell ent prelude to your steaming plate of
goul ash. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (17-
36z). PTAGS
Deli Bar D- 6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. (+48) 12 430 64
04, www.delibar.pl. A bri ght modern eatery whose
orange wall s come decorated wi th bl ow-up photos of
paprika and goulash. I t doesn t take a brainbox to work
out whats the order of the day here, this place is Hun-
garian through and through, and youll find a stack of
red hot, spi cy dishes on the menu. And i ts not j ust the
bl oodthirsty whore catered for here, non-carni vores get
a fair choi ce of fish, salads and soups to test. Best of
all, the pri ce to quali ty ratio is posi ti vel y of f-the-scal e.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (12-
28z). TUGSW
Polish tipping eti quette can be a bi t confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a wai ter coll ects the money,
youll be horri fied to learn that in Poland uttering the
word dzi kuj e (thank you), or even thank you i n
English, is an indication that you wont be wanting
any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very
embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress
then typically does their best to play the fool and make
you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or
conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your
change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size
of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only
say thank you i f you are happy for the waitstaff to
keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to
only use the word prosz when handing back the bill
and the payment.
Despi te the fact that the average wai tress in PL onl y
makes a pal try 10-15z/hr, a customary tip is still
onl y around 10% of the meals total (though being
a forei gner may make staf f expectant of a bi t more
generosi ty). As such, we encourage you to reward
good servi ce when you feel i ts deserved. Fi nal l y,
i t is not common to add the tip to your credi t card
payment because wai tstaf f are forced to then pay
tax on the gratui ty; most likel y you will not even be
abl e to l eave a tip on your card. Have some change
handy so you can still l eave a cash tip, or ask your
server for change.
Tipping Tribulations
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12
422 37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. All around not
a bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent,
but the same couldnt be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken
Masala Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree
extra spicy here certainly wont leave your kids orphaned.
If nothing else its a decent diversion from all the menorahs
and prayer shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants.
Find a pleasant interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of
Himalayan mountain scenes and photo albums of the owner-
ships journeys in the homeland. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-38z). PTA6UIVGSW
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. A l ong narrow space
decorated with beads, patterned fabrics and pictures of
Maharajas posed atop elephants. Theres a near constant
line of people filing in and out, attracted no doubt by the best
Indian food Krakw has to offer. Spice levels rarely threaten
to reach volcanic, but this is nevertheless a vast improve-
ment on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. The interiors
a bit dumpy and the toilet is outside in a public corridor, but
the food keeps you from complaining and the business lunch
specials are a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (22-42z). PA6GS
International
4 Seasons E-6, ul. Szeroka 12 (Rubinstein Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.hotelrubinstein.com.
Breaking with ulica Szerokas Jewish obsession, the Ru-
binstein Hotel restaurant has also broken with its rather
Jewish-sounding namesake - changing its title to 4 Seasons
to make it clear this aint no kosher and klezmer house.
Offering an enticing collection of European dishes, this
ultra posh effort features boys dressed in penguin attire,
stone surfaces and immaculate cutlery arrangements that
positively gleam under the lighting. If youre really feeling like
an heiress, stay for breakfast: served 07:00-11:00 (40z).
QOpen 17:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (20-68z).
PTAUEGW
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the
classic urek soup - we do not think we have ever tasted bet-
ter - before moving on to more notable nosh like the venison
that will have you wondering how such simple flavours can
be so rich. The superior quality of this establishment has
been grandfathered into Krakws restaurant scene, and
offers the rare chance to eat well right off of Mozarts flat-
wared face. Q Open 07:00-11:00, 12:00-23:00. (39-79z).
PTYAUGW
Ancora C-4, ul. Dominikaska 3, tel. (+48) 12 357
33 55, www.ancora-restaurant.com. A crisply designed
restaurant with bedsheet white walls and table settings,
an open kitchen and carefully tended shrubs guarding the
doorway, Ancora puts itself forward as a smart alternative
to Krakws antique-stuffed cellars. Serving creative con-
temporary cuisine alongside the requisite Polish dishes and
an awe-inducing 400 bottle wine list, since opening Ancora
has consistently won the accolades of many (including that
Michelin bloke) and continues to be one of the citys best
spots for a sophisticated dinner date. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(48-68z). PAGS
Aperitif C- 3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33
33, www.aperitif.com.pl. Thi s ci ty- centre bargai n
near Ma y Rynek features a creamy interior li vened by
bri ght orange tabl ecl oths and garden dining in the back
during the summer. Whil e the atmosphere and interior
may invoke the Medi terranean, the 16-19z lunch menu
(Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isn t above simpl e favouri tes
like cheeseburgers. The dinner menu reveals no lack of
creati ve muscl e wi th dishes like mussels in red or whi te
wine sauce (31z) and farfalle with spinach, blue cheese
sauce and pine nuts (25z) at li ghtwei ght pri ces. Aperi ti f
is an all round deli ght. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (21-59z).
TAUXSW
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422
01 06, www.baroque.com.pl. An attracti ve modern
space thats created plenty of ripples with a drinks menu
that is second to none including an impressive 100 or so
vodkas. But its not just about drinking, as theres also a
menu to peruse that includes a decent spread of salad,
pasta and grilled salmon. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (23-58z).
PTAXSW
Bom Fogo D-4, ul. Wielopole 4 (Holiday Inn Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 619 03 00, www.hik.krakow.pl. An interest-
ing restaurant inside the Holiday Inn with swirly patterned
carpets and curvy interior features. The menu is Mediter-
ranean in content, with a page devoted to specialties of
the local cuisine in case you havent already had enough. A
private dining room is available to special parties or those
who simply cant bear the site of watching others eat. For
after dinner drinks retire with the cocktail of your choice
to the Reflections bar. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. (40-75z).
PTAUGSW
Boogie Caf Resto Bar D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 43 06, www.boogiecafe.pl. A small, shining
black and white restobar with pics of the jazz greats and a
soundtrack that is strictly live jazz on Thursday, Friday and
Saturday nights, and chillout all other times. On the menu
its cheap light bites, baguettes, salads, snacks and pasta.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (12-29z).
AUEXSW
Cafe Oraneria (Orangery Cafe) A-5, Pl. Kossaka 1,
tel. (+48) 12 379 59 50, www.percheron.pl. Featuring
marvellous views of Wawel, this classic venue starts the day
with a wide selection of breakfasts including bacon and eggs
and the good international food just keeps on coming. More
than just a place to eat and drink, the seasonal rooftop terrace
is one of the few places in town in which to soak up the citys
atmosphere whilst taking in one of the best views around.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (15-68z). PTA6GSW
Coltrane Restaurant & Music Bar B-1, ul. Biskupia
4, tel. (+48) 12 633 05 27, www.coltrane-restaurant.
pl. If youre looking to bypass American frat kids and British
rugby teams then head to this secret den, a sleek and shining
jazz haunt situated in an area completely off the Lonely Planet
radar. The design throws no surprises your way, with the stan-
dard collection of black leather and pics of trumpeters, but the
new Mediterranean-leaning menu is worth investigation and
the live music aint bad either, though youll only get to listen to
it on the weekend. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (14-42z). PAEGSW
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl. Inside one
of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find one of its most
exclusive restaurants. The menu aims high, and gets results
with gourmet choices that change with the seasons in order
Undamaged by the Nazi cyclone Krakws old town is one of
the few town centres in Poland which remains in its original
form, and as such represents a breathing history lesson.
With a past that stretches back several centuries its not
hard to unsuspectingly find yourself doing your boozing
and dining inside a part of history. Hands down the most
famous restaurant in town is Wierzynek (Rynek Gwny 15)
whose opening in 1364 was attended by five kings and nine
princes. The premise of the gathering was to stop Europe
going to war, though by all accounts the banquet turned into
a 21 day feasting marathon, with drinking playing a big part
in proceedings. The restaurant has been drawing big names
ever since, with Spielberg, Castro and Daddy Bush being a
few of the names to have crossed the threshold. Then there
is the recommended Polish restaurant U Babci Maliny (ul.
Szpitalna 38), which formerly housed the Cyganeria caf, a
popular post-day job meeting point for high-ranking Nazis.
Outside a plaque commemorates a heroic attack on the
caf by Jewish resistance fighters. Drink in more modern
history in the Noworolski caf (Rynek Gwny 1). This is
the spot where Lenin would entertain both his wife and his
mistress, while the art nouveau paintings are the work of
Josef Mehoffer. Jama Michalika (ul. Floriaska 45) was not
only the favoured meeting point of all the artsy types in the
Moda Polska art movement, but also the home of Polands
first cabaret, The Green Balloon. The opening night was
so nerve racking for the compere he got blind drunk before
swearing at the audience and falling off the stage. Thats
show business, and the success of the cabaret was guar-
anteed from thereon.
Eating History
20 Krupnicza St., Cracow
Phone: 12 430 08 38
www.dynia.krakow.pl
Open:
Mon-Sat 8:30 - 22:00,
Sun 9:00 - 21:00
Something good to start the day - a tasty breakfast.
Yummy salads and pastas for lunch.
Long cool drinks in the evening.
50
RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
to incorporate fresh local produce as much as possible. As
the menu updates itself, the quality remains constant, and
here youll find one of the best wine lists youve laid eyes on.
Original frescoes still grace the elegant gothic interior where
the aristocratic cuisine has been enjoyed by Nobel prize win-
ners (Miosz, Szymborska) and political dignitaries (Vaclav
Havel, Helmut Kohl). At Copernicus you get what you pay for,
making it easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-89z). PTAUIEGSW
Dominikaska 2 C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 07 50, www.restauracja-dominikanska2.pl.
Hung with poster-sized black and whites of interwar Krakw,
this new cafe and restaurant aims to present the ancient city
in a modern way. A cafe area with sofa seating is for those
who come for the modestly priced 4z coffee, while a more
formal dining room lures patrons with its Polish and Mediter-
ranean inspired fusion menu. Kids also get their own menu
and play area, and even the blind have been considered with
Krakws first braille menu. Unfortunately this guidebook isnt
in braille, so the blind may never find out. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (18-55z). PTAUEGSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12
430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Ultra stylish, with a
design that incorporates lots of shining leather, bare bricks
and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is the garden,
an absolutely ace spot festooned with plant life. The menu
features decent breakfast options, spaghetti, soups and
chicken and pork cooked up in a variety of ways, as well as
a range of low-cal meals for those whove had enough of pop-
ping out of their buttons. This being Poland, you can expect
the staff to look rather nice as well. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (13-27z). TAGS
Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. (+48) 12 633 65 20,
www.karmelicka52.com. A completely un-Krakowian effort
with a futuristic design that relies on clever lighting, a spacious
set up and a slick atmosphere more commonly associated
with the lounge bars of the capital. By day the menu is as
adventurous as any youll come across in Krakw with asian
styled fusion offerings picked at by a chic crowd. The darker
it gets the more this place melts into a pre-club spot, with
Bambi girls sipping expert cocktails. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (18-49z). PAXSW
Figa z Makiem C-2, ul. Sawkowska 10, tel. (+48) 12
423 76 76, www.figazmakiem.com.pl. A great location
for a nice, but casual and affordable meal out, Figa z Makiem
delivers a surprisingly well-translated menu of rich meat
and seafood mains in an interior of white-dressed wood
furnishings and wood-panelled walls. Our duck breast with
honey-mushroom sauce served with tagliatelle pesto (43z)
turned out to be a bit of a light meal, but was nonethelss deli-
cious, with the poppy cake with hot fig sauce being a worthy
namesake for this pleasant addition to Krakws ceaselessly
increasing culinary scene. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (11-43z).
TA6UIGS
Floriaska C-2, ul. Floriaska 43/6 (first floor), tel.
(+48) 12 421 08 70, www.restauracja-florianska.pl. A
cracking addition to Krakws Old Town, a nice design uses
patterned wallpaper and antiques, though the restaurant
manages to maintain a chic, modern aesthetic. The menu
is international with a slant towards the Italian end of things,
and includes a sirloin steak in a pepper which we can
recommend. The in-house speciality, boar stroganoff with
rosemary and chanterelles with courgette-potato cakes,
comes highly recommended. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (13-
56z). PTAIGSW
Good Food C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 4, tel. (+48) 603 12
34 98. Not exactly the organic, health-conscious vegetar-
ian eatery the name might have you hoping for, the fact that
youre in Poland becomes sadly apparent when you discover
that the name Good Food actually implies yet another grill
house - this one primarily specialising in shish-kababs,
steaks and sausages. Greek dishes are in abundance, with
the Moussaka offering an underwhelming alternative to
sirloin in this small cafeteria that doesnt even have its own
toilet. Good Grief is more like it. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (7-
26z) TAUGSW
Grande Grill 15/16 C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48)
12 424 96 00, www.grandegrill.pl. Krakw has plenty
of courtyard gardens, but few can equal this one. Packed
with plants hanging from timber beams this is an attractive
venue, and under the stewardship of Wierzynek, Krakws
most legendary restaurant. Great environs come with great
service and arguably the finest steaks and grilled animals
in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14-65z). TAGSW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego D-3, ul. w. Krzya 15, tel.
(+48) 12 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.com. Our bar of
choice in central Krakow, though theres more to Nic Nowego
than late nights and blank memories. Tom the owner is a chef
by trade, and his menu - which is served right through the
day and well beyond traditional dinner hours - goes above
and beyond pub standards to include great daily soups, a
spicy chilli, the citys best baguettes and the most authentic
Irish breakfast in town. The food comes complemented by a
slick, metallic interior that buzzes from dawn till closing, and
the wifi explains why youll see so many of the same patrons
here during and after work hours. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri
07:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. (10-
25z). TA6UGSW
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine and Wine) D-6, ul. Jzefa
13, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, www.kuchniaiwino.eu. This
local favourite offers a quiet, intimate setting for a romantic
dinner just off the bohemian debauchery of Kazimierzs main
square from which you can try to pluck a date for one of the
best meals in the area. Choose between pork tenderloin
in Fourme dAmbert or truffle sauce, while the beef comes
with your choice of green olive tapenade or garlic sauce.
Also on offer and recommended is the sirloin steak with
Camembert sauce or garlic butter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(21-65z). TA6IGS
Main Square B-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423
12 41, www.mainsquare.pl. Set in the wonderful Renais-
sance Paac Pod Baranami (Palace under the sheep), Main
Square is a luscious setting steps away from the bustle of the
main Market Square. Step inside the minimal, white interior
where the wine glasses and fine table setting do most of
the talking for the decor to enjoy modern interpretations of
Italian and Polish classics. Prices can only be considered as
reasonable considering the location and surroundings with
our cheese pierogi and onions and urek just creeping over
30zl. In warmer times, the romantic inner courtyard setting
is recommended while the 19zl lunch menu offers excellent
value offering a club sandwich, fries, salad and a dessert.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (18-54z). PTA6VGSW
Metropolitan C-3, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48) 12
421 98 03, www.metropolitan-krakow.com. Rumours of
a decline have been exaggerated, this is still Krakws best
breakfast with a choice of British fry-ups or American-style
maple syrup pancakes to help soak up the liquid indulgences
of the night previous. Metropolitans breakfasts are the stuff
of legend, though this place is by no means a one trick pony.
52
RESTAURANTS
As the hours tick by this cosmopolitan, wood-fitted spot
fills up with an urbane crowd taking their pick from a quasi-
fusion menu. Best of all an open kitchen means theres no
chance of some jester choosing to do obscene things to your
order. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 15:00. (18-64z).
PTAGSW
Milk & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson Blu
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 88 88, www.milkco.pl. Unfor-
tunately Milk & Co no longer dishes out their elaborate lunch
buffet, having gone a la carte with their usual selection of
original, healthy fish and meat options. However, the ever-
popular Surf & Turf extravaganza on Thursday, Friday and
Saturday nights remains, and at 135z with beer, wine and
drinks included is actually a heck of a bargain. Enjoy giant
prawns and seafood alongside tender juicy steaks and ribs
and to hell with the calories. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (35-80z).
PTA6UGW
Nova Resto Bar D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 502
29 14 41, www.novarestobar.pl. A vast canteen space
that makes use of wood partitions to separate tables and
abstract art to add to the visual diversions. Theyre not fooling
anyone, this eyesore has the aesthetics of a school dining
hall. The foods not that much better either, the low prices a
direct reflection of the culinary quality. On the plus side Nova
isnt a bad shot if you want a cheap meal that isnt a frozen
french bread pizza or roadkill kebab. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(22-53z). PTA6GSW
Padre B-3, ul. Wilna 11, (entrance from ul. Olsze-
wskiego), tel. (+48) 12 422 08 66, www.restauracja-
padre.pl. Arranging the marriage of Indian and Italian
food, Padres menu features both pastas and curries. With
coloured lamps and twinkling treasures, the cellar has all
the atmosphere of an underwater grotto, only the golden
oldies that get airplay detract from the mysticism. In spite
of a hidden off-Rynek location this place seems a bit of an
open secret, its garden and subterranean chambers packed
throughout the day thanks to the reputation of the solid Indian
offerings and reasonable prices. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (16-
44z). TA6GS
Piwnica Pod Wierzynkiem C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel.
(+48) 12 424 96 00, www.grill15-16.pl. Occupying the
cellars of the historic Wierzynek building, this grill house boasts
of the best steaks in Krakw, specialising in American T-Bones
and deer steaks. Under the stewardship of Krakws finest
restaurant, you can also expect Wierzyneks peerless quality
and service. Wintertime also sees the opening of a heated
outdoor tent for those who prefer to do their drinking and dining
with a view. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (21-65z). PTAGS
Plaa Krakw (Krakw Beach) I-4, ul. Ludwinowska
2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, www.plazakrakow.com.
In addition to summertime sand and sun, the large Plaa
Krakw (Krakw Beach) development also features a fan-
tastic restaurant. Rather than go the salty, seaside shrimp
shack route, Plaa somehow succeeds in being stylishly
modern and even elegant despite deck flooring and a plastic
canopy ceiling. While the bar/club side features low, loungy
white sofas, candles and starched tablecloths create a
refined atmosphere more suitable to the classy menu on
the dining side of this open-air establishment. Choose from
stand outs like fish broth and seafood with orange (15z) and
sirloin with parsley mousse (59z). Dont miss the attached
photo gallery and get ready for DJ parties kicking off after
22:00. QAs we went to press the venue called to tell us they
have closed until April because of the weather. (33-58z).
TA6UEGSW
10.02 Thursday - 21.02 Monday
Charming Valentines at the Relais & Ch-
teaux Copernicus
C-5, Copernicus, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 34 00. This 5-star hotel package includes 2 nights
in a standard double room with a buffet breakfast each
morning. Theres a four-course a la carte dinner for two
at the Copernicus Restaurant, drinks not included, for
the evening in between. To work off the calories theres
free use of the swimming pool, sauna and fitness club as
well as a relaxing 60-minute massage for two.Q Price:
1820z. Reservations on phone.
10.02 Thursday - 15.02 Tuesday
St.Valentines Day at the Amadeus Hotel
D-3, Amadeus Hotel, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12
429 60 70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. For a romantic
Valentines day experience the Amadeus has prepared
two options: a two-day stay for 150 and a three-day
stay for 250. The prices include one or two nights,
depending on which option you choose, breakfast served
to your room, a romantic candlelit dinner in the Amadeus
restaurant with a specially prepared menu and glass of
wine. After all that you can go and relax in sauna, nice.Q
Price 150-250. Reservations on phone.
11.02 Friday - 15.02 Tuesday
Romantic Evening at the Qubus Hotel
J-4, Qubus Hotel Krakw, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel.
(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. At the
Qubus your 500z gets you one night in a Junior Suite.
Theres a candlelit supper served in your room if so desire
as well as sauna, swimming pool and jacuzzi. Breakfast
is also included in the price and check out has been put
back till 15:00 the following day, so youre bound to leave
rested and relaxed.QPrice 500z. Reservations by phone.
12.02 Saturday - 20.02 Sunday
St. Valentines Evening at the Bonerowski
Palace
C-3, Bonerowski Palace, Rynek Gwny 42/w.
Jana 1, tel. (+48) 12 374 13 00, www.palac-
bonerowski.pl. For this most romantic of evenings
the Bonerowski has an extra special menu ready. The
aperitif is a glass of Prsecco Malibran followed by oysters
with lemon on ice, pumpkin creme with a hint of truffle,
crocus tagiolini with rabbit ragu or lamb chops with mint
puree and chocolate sauce. Theres chocolate dessert
with chilli peppers and ice-cream. The choice of what to
do just got much harder.Q Price 249z.
13.02 Sunday - 14.02 Monday
Valentines Day Brunch at the Sheraton
A-5, Sheraton Krakw, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12
662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow. On Valen-
tine Days the Sheraton is offering a very special Sunday
brunch, all for 135z. If you fancy something in the eve-
ning, theres also a romantic supper offer with a 4-course
meal for 155z, the 6-course option is also top value at
185z, at the hotels exclusive Olive restaurant. Theres
an overnight option with either brunch or supper, the cost
of a room is an extra special 350z. A perfect idea for
surprising the one you love. Q Price 135-185z. Open
12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30. Reservations on phone.
Valentines ideas
54
RESTAURANTS
55
RESTAURANTS
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriaska 14
(Pod R Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.
com.pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under
a glass-covered atrium in the Pod R hotel. A piano sits
on a raised platform, and higher up theres a balcony with
tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a
veritable list of birds and forest animals, including a rather
tasty dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then so
are the standards. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-115z).
PTJAUEGSW
red.lounge&garden E-6, ul. Kupa 6, tel. (+48) 12
376 40 52, www.red-lounge.pl. The garden of the title is
now closed for the winter, but this quintessentially Kazimi-
erz eatery is still very much open for business with plenty
inside to keep the hungry punters coming. Decked out in an
eye-popping style of red and black, the international food
starts early with a good choice of breakfasts and continues
through the day with such tantalising offerings as a Devils
steak with honey-herb baby carrots. We thought the barman
had just been attacked by local yobs when we popped in,
but were relieved to discover his face is always full of metal.
QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (22-52z).
PTA6GSW
Restauracja Cafe Sukiennice C-3, Rynek Gwny
1/3, tel. (+48) 12 422 24 68. Back in full flow after the
renovation of the Cl oth Hall, the cafe too has been gi ven
a faceli ft. The menu stretches from cof fee to breakfast
to full -bl own ol d Polish dishes such as pi erogi, goulash
and veal and steak dishes wi th a range of sandwi ches,
salads and soups for those l ooking for something more
snacky and a good value lunch set at 14.90zl. The prices
are now more realisti c compared to days of yore but the
location is still the number one reason to visi t. The sheer
number of decent al ternati ves wi thi n a stones throw
mean that i ts greatest pull is the seasonal terrace whi ch
all ows to enj oy your cof fee, i ce cream or snack perched
in the middl e of the square, the di f ference being that you
wont leave wi th the same feeling of disappointment that
you once woul d have. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (15-57z).
A6VGSW
Restauracja Unicus C-2, ul. Floriaska 35 / w.
Marka 20 (Unicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27,
www.hotelunicus.pl. Award-winning Polish chef Rafal
Targosz oversees an enticing range of predominantly Polish
dishes in this recommended, atmospheric hotel-based cellar
restaurant. Among the many interesting treats populating
the excellent value menu is a splendid pheasant breast on a
bed of creamy pasta, savoy cabbage with bacon and lightly
smoked plums. For those who cant afford the airfare, the
restaurant website boasts one of Mr. Targoszs legendary
recipes. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (38-59z). PTAUGW
Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gobia 2, tel. (+48) 12
430 73 73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Though the name
comes off as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminatis
connotations of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an
apt portrayal of this attractive restaurant hedging modern
Warsaw style into a medieval Krakw setting. Most enjoy-
able and undervalued is the ability to dine in ancient vaulted
brick surroundings without being buried underground in
a windowless crypt. Check the wall-length blackboard for
daily specials before considering char-grilled pork fillet rolled
in pistachios with Marquis potato and honey herb glazed
vegetables. Also worth checking out are their daily lunch
specials served 12:00 - 16:00 and theres reassuringly no
need for blood rites to be a regular. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30.
(25-63z). PTA6EGW
Resto Illuminati
ul. Golbia 2, 31-007 Krakw
tel: +48 12 430 73 73
e-mail: resto@restoilluminati.pl
www.restoilluminati.pl
To us Food is not about I`m hungry,
I want to eat... It`s about passion,
it`s about nourishing the soul,
it`s about feeding the eye and
stimulatingthe palate... It`s about us.
Head Chef Michael Cooney - Resto Illuminati
Live piano concerts
from Tuesday to Saturday evenings
I f you find yoursel f being approached by a young lady
or ladi es taki ng an overacti ve i nterest i n you and
suggesting you join them for a drink, please exercise
common sense and scepticism. While we do not wish
to suggest you arent the handsome dude you clearly
are, we have received reports of situations in which
foreign men are lead to a random bar or club by flirta-
tious young women, where upon later attempting to
leave they are intimidated into paying vastly inflated
bar tabs by thuggish bouncers. This well-known scam,
which has sadly moved into Krakw from the Baltic
states, is very real and has been shamefully enabled
by the inaction of city authorities, who you shouldnt
expect any sympathy from i f you fi nd yoursel f i n
trouble. Use common sense and your intuitive pow-
ers to avoid dodgy-looking clubs in the Old Town that
arent covered by this guide or vouched for by someone
you trust; after all, i f you cant trust a womans taste
in clubs, you shouldnt trust her taste in you either.
Be cautious about your company and dont let them
order a drink you dont first know the price of, and you
should have no problem having a blast in Krakw. By
and large this city is an extremely safe place to be
and to enjoy yoursel f and the locals youll meet out
socialising will respect you i f you respect them. Gone
are the days when a foreigner would be greeted with
awe and unfortunately too many idiots in years past
took advantage of the locals hospitality by urinating
all over it. Be nice and be careful and youll have a
trip to remember.
Hey Handsome
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when
a plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski, his wi fe
and ninety four other passengers crashed by the city
of Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped
trees as i t came i nto l and, before turni ng upsi de
down and plunging to the ground. The president and
his entourage had been flying in to mark the 70th an-
niversary of the Katy Massacre, a notorious episode
in which Stalin ordered the execution of approximately
22,000 Polish officers. For decades Russia had denied
responsibility, and only recently had steps been taken
to mend bridges.
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were
left impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin &
Co. As with all high profile disasters speculation as to
the cause continues to be rife. The official Russian air
authority report into the incident laid the blame squarely
on the pilots who they claim ignored instructions to land
elsewhere because of the poor weather conditions.
They also suggested the presence and distraction of
unauthorized personnel in the cockpit as the key to the
tragedy. At first this had been thought to have been the
president himself a man who once notoriously insisted
his pilots fly against their judgement and land in war torn
Tbilisi though black box evidence now points to the
intrusion at members of the entourage.
While Kaczyski had been widely forecast to lose heavily
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the
heads of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland
lost its political, military and economic elite. Despite
Kaczyskis unpopularity the outpouring of grief was
unmatched since the death of Pope John Paul II, and
churches packed out as mourners paid their respects.
In the capital thousands lined the streets when the bod-
ies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyski were returned, and for the
next week the streets outside the Presidential Palace
were turned into a giant shrine as people converged to
lay flowers and light candles on April 17th alone, over
100,000 mourners gathered in Pisudski Square to listen
to a state service.
But even i n death Kaczyski remai ned a di vi si ve
and controversial figure. The decision to bury him in
Krakws Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of
monarchs and saints, split Poles down the middle, with
many protesting the decision with the slogan Warsaw
for Presidents, Krakw for Kings. Held on April 18th
the funeral was marked with a service in Krakws St
Marys Cathedral, before the coffins were transported
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.
The funeral has entered Polish history as a landmark
event that will never be repeated. Since then however
President Kaczynskis twin brother and his opposition
party have openly accused the current government
of negligence and relations between Poland and Rus-
sia have been strained by what the Poles see as a
total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.
A tragic incident that initially united Poles and Poland
and Russia in grief now appears to be helping divide
both even more.
Disaster in Smolensk
56
RESTAURANTS
57
RESTAURANTS
Make a day
of it
Brunch at Sheraton Krakow Hotel gives
you time for the people that really matter.
Savour our sumptuous buffet and listen to
the Live Jazz in the unique atmosphere
of a glass roof Atrium. Bring the whole
family as children can enjoy a Special
Kids corner.
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Jazzy Sunday Brunch
at The Olive Restaurant 12 PM to 5 PM
including selection
of beverages
Price
135per person
PLN
Make a day
of it
Brunch at Sheraton Krakow Hotel gives
you time for the people that really matter.
Savour our sumptuous buffet and listen to
the Live Jazz in the unique atmosphere
of a glass roof Atrium. Bring the whole
family as children can enjoy a Special
Kids corner.
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Jazzy Sunday Brunch
at The Olive Restaurant 12 PM to 5 PM
including selection
of beverages
Price
135per person
PLN
Rocking Horse C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12
426 54 40, www.rockinghorse.pl. Deceptively large with
two entrances, three distinct dining rooms and a courtyard
garden (in season), Rocking Horse offers a comfortable
hideaway, suitable for a quiet dinner date or group get-
together. Enjoy a glass of wine in the garden where church
bells compete with the stream of an over-zealous fountain,
or retreat to an interior of colour-contrasting rooms curiously
tied together by a lack of real rocking horses (perhaps extinct
in PL since the days of the hussars) and an abundance of
very small framed images of rocking horses. The menu runs
the range of Polish grilled specialties, adding some simple
pasta dishes to round things out at this affordable, if not
particularly memorable, restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-50z). PTA6IXSW
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Scandale Royal suc-
cessfully skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro
by being one of the most stylish places to be all day and
night. In more shades of violet than we knew possible, it
nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length
windows and a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors
like a fragile firepole. On the card youll find salads, pastas,
and meat dishes to taste, with proper breakfast in the morn-
ings and an after 22:00 menu (featuring tapas) late night,
when everything inside from the cushions to the clientele
looks edible. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00.
(18-57z). PTAUXSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69,
www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant which
seems to draw most tourists at least once during their
visit. Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere of
complete elegance make it a great venue for your special
last night meal, and the food rarely disappoints. Choose
from dishes like Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce in what
has come to be known as one of the cornerstones of
Krakws culinary scene. An excellent breakfast (8:00-
12:00) destination as well. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (37-71z).
PTA6UGSW
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429
12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Opening after its sister
establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved
Krakw legend status just as quickly. What makes it so spe-
cial is not the location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly
staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for
so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up
on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful. All of Krakw should be like
this. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (32-58z). PTAIGSW
The Olive A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.sheraton.com/krakow.
Top class Mediterranean dishes served inside the imperial
environs of the Sheraton. The glass roof makes it possible
to dine under the stars while the foliage dotted around adds
to the al fresco atmosphere. The best ingredients money can
buy are complemented by graceful service and some superb
live piano. Fine dining at its best. Q Open 06:30 -10:30,
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00
- 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00,
18:00 - 22:30. (30-92z). PTAUEGW
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel. (+48)
12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A sensory
delight with crimson flourishes, feathery boas and gilt picture
frames providing an air of Parisian decadence. A private
members area and a pair of black-suited door police add an
air of exclusivity while the live jazz concerts performed every
evening are worth the visit alone. The high-end, high-quality
European dishes are an added bonus, and brought to you
by a busy team of beautiful waitresses dressed in evening
wear. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. From
March open 10:00-02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-03:00. (18-78z).
PAEG
NEW
Trufla C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16
41. The Krakow dining scene continues to improve and this
cosy place at the Pl. Szczepanski end of Tomasza is a good
example. In the past this place would have been a standout,
now it is simply pretty good but that shouldnt take away from
what is a decent meal at a decent price. A simple predomi-
nantly white dcor with wooden furniture allows you to relax
while you consider their handwritten menu featuring changing
dishes, all of which are original and Italian influenced. Both
our pork and chicken dishes came with very tasty sauces
and well cooked vegetables, prepared by chefs not afraid to
conceal their kitchen secrets thanks to their open kitchen.
With limited tables and a seemingly already loyal band of
followers, reservations might well be recommended. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. (16-40z). PAS
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 384 08 06, www.lhr.com.pl. Hotel Stary won
an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace
restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the modern
with finely preserved details of this ancient building. Serving
fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu
changes like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a
steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients.
Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who
have been regulars for years, try the revelation that is tuna
carpaccio with truffle and parmesan flakes or splash out
on the lobster. A gem. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (65-129z).
PTA6UGSW
Vanilla Sky H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.niebieski.com.
pl. The flagship restaurant of the new 5-blinger Art Hotel
Niebieski, Vanilla Sky takes a healthy approach as the citys
only restaurant to get all of their ingredients from certified
organic sources, and the chef has constructed a tantalising
menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that will
make you want to happily commit to the eco-craze. Choose
between options like grilled lamb cutlets in herbs with
polenta, fried tomatoes and young spinach or Argentinian
steak served with Paris baguette and Provencal vegetables.
Set in the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotels
third floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous Yamaha
Grand Touch piano on which live concerts are given by a local
maestro Wednesdays to Saturdays from 19:30-21:30 and
Sundays from16:00-18:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-59z).
PTAUEGSW
Wentzl C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 429 57
12, www.wentzl.pl. In the upstairs of an historical 15th
century building on Krakws market square (nice view, huh?),
Wentzl itself can trace its lineage back to the 18th century.
Today its one of the citys most exclusive and elegant eating
establishments, highlighted by fine service, timber ceilings
and a collection of noteworthy paintings from the Ecole De
Paris circle - a group of Jewish artists living in Paris during the
interwar period. The real masterpiece will be on your plate,
however, and presented to impress. Dishes like saddle of
venison in Grand Veneur sauce are worth every zoty, and
the view of Mariacki is free. QOpen 13:00 - 23:30. (58-68z).
PTA6UGSW
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RESTAURANTS
59
RESTAURANTS
Aqua e Vino B- 3, ul. Wilna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12
421 25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. Still as exci ti ng as
the day i t opened. I talian owned, this chi c cellar space
comes decorated in a minimalist styl e wi th cream and
black col our combinations, and an atmosphere redol ent
of downtown Mi l an. Hal f restaurant, hal f l ounge bar,
the beauti ful l y presented di shes come cooked up by
house chef Francesco. Earni ng rave revi ews from al l
corners, thi s meri ts a pl ace on any must vi si t l i st
you may be keeping. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (22-56z).
PTAGSW
Avanti Ristorante B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. (+48)
12 430 07 70, www.avanti.krakow.pl. Gilded mirrors,
linen tablecloths, lots of cool, off-white colours and a Ro-
manesque theme add bags of class to this underground
Italian restaurant just west of the Old Town. Highly rec-
ommended by those reportedly in the know, the menu
includes a handsome range of pasta, fish and other classic
Italian dishes. Also on hand is the handsome ground floor
orangerie, with a similar menu and a garden cafe - both
worth a visit when the weather permits. QOpen 15:00 -
23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (22-59z).
PTAGSW
Carlito C-2, ul. Floriaska 28, tel. (+48) 12 429 19
12, www.restauracjacarlito.pl. Even amongst all the
neon kebab signs and stalls selling Made in China fluffy
dragons Carlito still manages to stick out like a sore thumb.
This space is positively huge upstairs and down - including
a fantastic rooftop terrace overlooking Floriaska - and
dolled up to look like a traditional, i f not slightly tacky,
trattoria with the quintessential burnt sienna walls, wine
bottl es, chandeli ers and sculptures. I ts casual dining
well-suited to large groups in this tourist magnet serving
the full galaxy of Italian dishes, with particular attention
paid to the popular thin crust pizza prepared in plain view
at one end of the restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (18-
56z). PTAUGS
Cosa Nostra E-6, ul. Dajwr 25, tel. (+48) 12 429 00
97, www.cosanostra.krakow.pl. Naming a restaurant in
honour of a crime syndicate responsible for common terror
seems a little odd. Still the mafia are always a good gimmick,
and its certainly a better idea than launching a restaurant
with an Idi Amin theme. Located on a less travelled corner
of Kazimierz this restaurant features exposed brick walls,
rough plastering and an informal trattoria ambiance perfect
for planning the messy demise of sworn enemies. On the
menu everything from simple pizzas to more complicated
main courses with wine suggestions added thoughtfully
below. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
(15-100z). TAUEXSW
Delecta Restaurant is located in the
heart of Podgrze - one of the oldest
districts in Krakw
Ul. Limanowskiego 11 Krakw
tel +48 12 6565541,12 4235001
www.restauracja-delecta.pl
Italian
Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 18,
www.aldente-krakow.com. A light and airy room with a
cream and modern look. This is where the local sophisticates
have been seen heading, drawn no doubt by Sardinian cuisine
prepared by the imported chef. Authenticity is topped off by
the ingredients, most of which come shipped direct from
Italy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-49z). TAUEGSW
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. This is upmarket
Italian food served to an increasingly discerning audience, all
of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and
how it should be cooked. Pressure is on then, but the Amarone
boys come through every time. This is a superb restaurant,
with a setting to match - under a giant glass covered skylight.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-69z). PTAUEGSW
Bagelmama E- 6, ul. Dajwor 10, tel. (+48) 12
346 16 46, www.bagelmama.com. Kazi mi erzs
favouri te bagel spot i s a great pl ace to start the
day. Q Breakfast ser ved 09: 00-12: 00. (8-17z).
TAUGSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48)
12 430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Dynia has
an extensive breakfast menu, which weve gladly gone
back to time and again. Most of the offerings are simple
Polish morning standards - scrambled eggs with chives,
omelettes with jam or fruits - however, more hearty
creations like the sausage-laden hultajski set (13z)
and fishy sailor set (16z) are also available as well as
English breakfast for 20z. Q Breakfast served 08:30-
13:00. TAGS
Europejska C- 3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48)
12 429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. The market
square l ocati on and comfor tabl e, yet cl assy atmo-
sphere of the i nteri or make Europej ska a favouri te
of touri sts and el der ex-pats. The extensi ve break-
fast menu sati sfi es a vari et y of tastes wi th i ts
set Engl i sh, Pol i sh and Vi enna breakfast pl atters
(27-39z), wi th pl enty of oml ettes to choose from. I f
youre not ready to take on a meal at thi s hour, the
sel ecti on of cof fee dri nks and tor tes wi l l sweeten
anyone up. Q Breakfast ser ved 08: 00 - 12:30.
PTAGSW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego D- 3, ul. w. Krzya
15, tel. (+48) 12 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.
com. Unl i ke the others l i sted here, Ni c Nowego
serves great breakfast al l damn day and ri ght up
to the next. Wi th perhaps the onl y proper I ri sh
breakfast i n Krakw, the menu al so i ncl udes om-
el ettes and toasted sandwi ches. Not onl y i s the
owner a chef, but he al so patroni ses hi s bar on a
regul ar basi s, creati ng a wel comi ng atmosphere.
Q Breakfast served 07:00-02:00, Fri 07:00-03:00,
Sat 09: 00- 03: 00, Sun 09: 00- 02: 00. (10-25z ).
TA6UGSW
Metropolitan C-3, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 421 98 03, www.metropolitan-krakow.com.
Uni versal l y hai l ed as peerl ess, breakfast here i s
conveni entl y served until 16:00 on the weekends.
With sound American and English skillet breakfasts
and mapl e syrup-smothered pancakes as menu
options, you may not even be tempted to approach
the imposing breakfast buffet (served 07:30-16:00,
19-60z) - an upscale assortment of meats, cheeses,
fruit, pastries, and eggs made to order. In the end, the
quality of the food and the friendly service make you
want to return as soon as youve walked out the door.
Q Breakfast served 07:30-11:00, Sat 07:30-16:00,
Sun 07:30-15:00.
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66
69, www.szara.pl. Decent breakfasts served on the
Market Square from 08:00. Choose from a selection
of set menus all priced around the 5 euro mark rang-
ing from cereals and yoghurts, a mackerel and egg set
right through to a fried eggs and bacon, all with coffee,
tea and fruit juice. Q Breakfast served 08:00-12:00.
(18-21z).
Breakfast
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RESTAURANTS
61
RESTAURANTS
Da Cesare B-2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 00
87, www.dacesare.eu. A splendid, unassuming restaurant
tucked away down a little-explored street with a genuine and
extremely capable Italian driving the kitchen, Da Cesare is
all about simplicity, chequered tablecloths, lovely staff and
knock-out food of which the latter cant come recommended
enough. Predominantly from the region of Calabria, dishes
feature some marvellous twists including the use of hot
chilli. Well worth the five-minute walk west from the Old
Town. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12-
49z). TAGS
Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Gwny 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 32
79, www.dapietro.pl. A dark network of rooms decorated
with black and white pictures of Romes Colosseum, and
tables laid with candles and silverware await you inside this
cellar restaurant. Portions are enormous, and the spaghetti
comes heaped with garlic, capers, olives and anchovies,
and accompanied by a tray of bread and olive oil. QOpen
12:30 - 24:00. (39-68z). PTA6XSW
Delecta J-4, ul. Limanowskiego 11, tel. (+48) 12 423
50 01, www.restauracja-delecta.pl. As of yet, there sim-
ply arent many good places to eat in Podgrze, making this
one of your best options if youre searching for dinner in the
area. A warm, comfortable trattoria with wooden tables, spice
garlands, a fireplace and a large pizza chef working in one
corner, Delecta offers simple, affordable Italian and Polish
food in an intimate setting without any heavy-handed formali-
ties. The pizzas are good, the smell of olive oil and rosemary
hits you as soon as you walk in the door, and there have been
times when we didnt want to leave. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (18-46z). PTA6IXS
Fabryka Pizzy (Pizza Factory) E-6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel.
(+48) 12 433 80 80, www.fabrykapizzy.pl. Often rated
as Krakws best pizza, Fabryka has expanded to a com-
manding four locations throughout the city since starting as
a project of students at the Economic University some years
ago. The secret isnt the pleasant wooden and brick interiors
or the slightly precious prices; clearly its in the ingredients
and the list of premium toppings unheard of in other pizza
joints, including feta, camembert, roquefort and traditional
Polish mountain cheese, capers, mussels, crabmeat, beans
and Tabasco (!!!) to name a few. The cherry on this sundae,
however, is the arrival of extra marinara sauce with the pie
- a mind-blowing event for anyone now grown accustomed
to the unilateral substitution of cheap, translucent ketchup
for red sauce. If thats not amore, well, we dont know what
is... Also at ul. Sawkowska 3 (C-2) and Lubomirskiego 41 (J-
2). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (12-26z).
PTAUGSW
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48) 12 429
51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. Tucked behind the Pugetw
Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to impart the corner-
stones of Italian cooking - from pizza and calzones to gnocchi
and fresh tortiglioni - now extending themselves to new favou-
rites like pork with spicy chocolate sauce (33z). Combining
sophisticated service with a casual atmosphere, dine in an
interior of colourful photos of Italy, stout wooden tables and
a timber ceiling, or enjoy the terrace seating in short-sleeve
weather. Reliably recommendable. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-44z). PTAUGSW
InVito Pizza & Pasta D-3, ul. w.Tomasza 33, tel.
(+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.pl. The concept
here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior with a com-
fortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good company and
affordable food. The decor nicely balances touchstones
Don't choose
between authentic
and afordable ...
we'll give you both.
Ul. w. Tomasza 33
tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92
Open: 11:00 23:00
Fri Sat : 11:00 24:00
www.invitopizza.pl
email: krakow@invitopizza.pl
Burger King D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 713 86 14 88, www.burgerking.com.pl.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (10-17z).
PTAUGSW
Chimera Salad Bar B- 3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel.
(+48) 12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. This
beautiful courtyard buffet has been sealed off from the
elements and now overflows with ambience year round.
Its not the best veggie fare in town, but its fast, easy,
cheap and a great place to relax and theyve now got a
lunch set for 20-30z QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (12-24z).
TAIGSW
KFC D-2, ul. Floriaska 33, tel. (+48) 71 386 19
88, www.kfc.pl. Also at ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska,
D-1) and ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz, E-7). Q
Open 08:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-05:00 (11-19z).
PTAUGSW
McDonalds D-2, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 608 31 35 93, www.mcdonalds.pl. Also on
(D-2), ul. Floriaska 55, (B-3) ul. Szewska 2, ten locations
total and potentially more i f you portly chumps keep
patronising this place. QOpen 05:30 - 22:30. (11-18z).
PTAUGSW
Pizza Hut J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimi-
erz), tel. (+48) 12 428 53 72, www.pizzahut.pl.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (15-31z).
PTAUGSW
Pod Oson Nieba (Beneath the Sheltering Sky)
C-4, ul. Grodzka 26, tel. (+48) 12 422 52 27. Commonly
known as the best kebab in Krakw and as such youll find
the prices keep creeping up thanks to the ever-present
queue by the outside hatch. Civilized sorts will choose to
do their dining inside, in which case theres two counters
to choose from - one serving kebabs, the other dishing out
set meals that consist of a strip of meat and a pile of cab-
bage, pizza or pasta. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 04:00. (12-30z). PTAUGSW
Przekski Wolnica 4 D-7, Pl. Wolnica 4, tel. (+48)
12 423 24 24. Formerly Paroles Paroles, that place
was the subject of the Polish version of the Kitchen
Nightmares (Kuchenne Rewolucj e). Hosted by the
Polish restaurateur Magda Gessler, her solution was
to re-invent the place completely from a Mediterranean
restaurant into something that resembles her own
excellent Przekski Zakski opposite the Presidential
Palace in Warsaw. Essentially a fashionable eat on the
run place where the food on offer is all classic Polish
snack dishes - hams, herring, pork in jelly - washed
down with a shot of vodka. The difference here being
that they also offer a selection of Polish main courses
as well. Prices are cheap and youll see this place coming
into its element late at night as hunger attacks the party
crowd. When else would you seriously want to eat pig in
jelly? QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
(6-19z). PTAUGS
Subway C-3, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 19 66,
www.subway-galeriakrakowska.pl.QOpen 09:00 -
24:00, Thu 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. (9-18z). PAUVGS
Quick Eats
ristorante pizzeria caff
62
RESTAURANTS
63
RESTAURANTS
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12
430 04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find Krakws
best pizza dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven
and the choi ce of numerous other I tal i an standards
prove Mamma Mia is more than a one trick pony. The
interior - clever lighting and exposed bricks - makes a
cool backdrop for casual dining, and their army of regulars
are testament to Mamma Mias growing reputation, even
l uri ng them i n for breakfast (served 7:00-12:00) wi th
sandwiches and muffins. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (14-44z).
PTAUGS
Milano C-3, ul. w. Jana 1 (Paac Bonerowski Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 374 13 00, www.palacbonerowski.pl.
Perhaps the most magnificent building on the market square,
wed be remiss if we didnt mention Bonerowski Palaces
classy in-house restaurant. A small collection of intimate
rooms decorated with all manner of oddities including a
rocking horse provide ample opportunity to tuck into a fine
range of Italian and international dishes. The clientle is
mixed albeit mostly well-heeled, whilst the almost inaudible
music comes as an extremely pleasant surprise in whats
becoming an increasingly noisy city. All in all a great choice
for pushing the culinary boat out when youre in town. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (49-65z). PTA6UGSW
Pepe Rosso E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 431 08 75,
www.peperosso.pl. Two floors to this restaurant - upstairs
its a crisp whitewashed dining room, and one closed to those
with a smoking habit. Instead smokers find themselves
directed downstairs, into a charming stone cellar that would
be even better if they switched some music on. Everything
on the menu looks good, and you wont be disappointed by
the beef fillet; cooked exactly to your orders. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (22-80z). PTAGSW
of a casual, rustic trattoria with the elegance of numerous
wine racks and classic black and white Belle Epoque pho-
tos, thereby outshining the menu which is little more than a
concise list of budget pizzas and do it at home pasta dishes
that come out of the kitchen quickly. With cute students on
the orders, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the stereo
and low totals on the bill at the end, theres really not much to
disagree with. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
(15-33z). TAUGS
La Campana Trattoria C- 4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Planted on
pi cturesque Kanoni cza street, La Campana Trattoria is
a compl etel y di f ferent restaurant in summertime when
i ts worth visi ting j ust to relax in the gorgeous i vy-green
garden and cobbl ed pati o: full of sunli ght and singing
birds, i t may be the best dining environment in Krakw.
In winter, retreat to the small, warm interior of unfinished
wood and wine bottles and dream of better weather. From
the same tri ed and true team behind Mid Malina and
Wesel e - two of our favouri tes (and the Mi chelin Gui de
agrees) - the pastas and risottos are as good as youd
expect, and theyre pl easantl y preceded by a bowl of
unshel l ed peanuts. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (16-52z).
TAGS
Leonardo D-3, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. (+48) 12 432
22 55, www.leonardo.com.pl. A series of dining rooms,
including one filled with Da Vincis scientific sketches, and
another crammed with hams hanging from the ceiling and jars
of pickles; evoking a provincial kitchen atmosphere. Using
hand-picked ingredients the kitchen staff create some of the
best meals in the region, including a superb deer served in
juniper and red wine sauce. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (21-79z).
PTAUGSW
FRESH
FISH
EVERY
THURSDAY
AND
FRIDAY
UL. SZPITALNA 20-22
KRAKW
TEL. +48 (12) 429 68 50
FAX: +48 (12) 432 22 56
WWW.LEONARDO.COM.PL
I f you have an opinion about any of the venues listed
in this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors
to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about
it. Every venue on our website now has a function for
comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical,
so spill it.
Cafe Manekin comments
This bar is cosy, friendly, and gives you a warm feeling as
soon as you go in. It offers a good selection of herbata
(teas) and wonder ful coffee-based beverages. The
atmosphere is great and makes this place definitely
worth a visit!
Sara Ferrara, 10 January, 2011
Kura comments
The sushi master i s real l y Japanese, that makes
a di f ference to any other establ i shment i n Krakow
and actual l y South Pol and as wel l . Raw fi sh i s wel l
sel ected and fresh and del i ci ous. .Warm di shes
made exactl y to the Japanese taste. Wor th tr yi ng:
Fat t y Tuna and beef Car pacci o- out st andi ng.
Besi des-real l y good musi c and ni ce peopl e as a
staf f:)
Mark Krakow, 21 December, 2010
Sioux Classic comments
My wi fe works for the US State Dept, based i n
Krakow. Two days ago we ate i n The Si oux Ci ty
Restaurant i n the Market Square and were sadl y
di sappoi nted. I do not know i f i t was our accent
or the fact that we took a whi l e to order. But the
Guy servi ng our tabl e was too rude for me to go
there agai n. The food was OK and I mean onl y OK.
I woul d advi se any potenti al user to gi ve thi s pl ace
a wi de berth.
Milcars Hatfield, 09 December, 2010
Wierzynek comments
Fi rst ti me I vi si ted Krakow i n December 1939
escaping to Hungary. Coul d not af ford time or money
then. Second ti me i n 1989 on June 2 el ecti on day
wi th my wi fe. Had fantasti c few meals and afternoon
cakes and tea downstai rs at Wi erzynek. Thi rd ti me
in 1994. Took my son to Wi erzynek and he woul d not
go to any other restaurant for the rest of our stay
i n Krakow. Thank you for the fantasti c epi curean
experi ence.
Tad Kowalski - SHELBURNE, VERMONT 30
November, 2010
Kawaleria Szara Smaku comments
Very good coffee from Italy, Bologna - Attibassi!
Gregorio Ferrara, 19 January, 2011
Irish Pub Nic Nowego comments
I ts wor th poi nti ng out i n a ci t y that has a few
I ri sh bars that thi s i s the best pl ace i f you want
a fami l i ar face, decent food, good beer and no
aggro. I end up i n Krakow 5 or 6 ti mes a year
because of wor k and t hi s i s al ways my base.
Br eak f ast , l unch, supper, pi nt s, spor t and a
genui ne wel come. I can t understand why there are
not more of these around the countr y. Thoroughl y
recommendabl e.
21 January, 2011 Sean Davis - Sopot
Have Your Say
64
RESTAURANTS
65
RESTAURANTS
Portofino E-6, ul. Wska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 37,
www.portofino.pl. Italian food at a decent price served (in
season) on a fine little terrace in Kazimierz. With no pizzas
clogging up the menu you can expect good pasta and some
wonderfully tossed salads: the caprese, made with good qual-
ity mozzarella and freshly crushed basil was a delight. Inside
its all round tables and things get a bit more formal. Drop by
between 12:00 and 16:00 for a special lunch menu featuring
most of the menus entrees plus a soup starter for only 20z.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65z). TAUIGS
Studnia ycze (The Wishing Well) D-6, Pl. Nowy 6,
tel. (+48) 12 429 53 37, www.studnia-zyczen.pl. Superior
Italian served in a rather bare setting, where creaking wooden
floors are the order of the day. The food is better than the Krakw
average Italian, with the gnocchi the pick of the lunchtime menu.
With good views of the busy if less than salubrious square the
tables by the open windows are rarely free: reserve if you want
one. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (12-40z). PA6EXSW
Trattoria Soprano B-3, ul. w. Anny 7, tel. (+48) 12 422
51 95, www.trattoriasoprano.pl. Very closely resembling
Carlito, this warm trattoria cluttered with potted plants, ceram-
ics and decorative embellishments would feel busy even if it
wasnt packed full of hungry patrons every night of the week.
The menu of quality Italian classics and pizzas changes slightly
as various veggies come into season. Comfortable, affordable
and reliable, Soprano reminds you of the simple pleasures of
eating out. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (19-64z). PTAGS
Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. (+48) 12 292
55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This delicious venture
wins our gold gong for Krakws best pizza, a sentiment shared
by pretty much anyone whos come into contact with this place.
Either do your dining in their knockout back garden during the
warmer months, or take to a dusky lit dining room complete
with log fire and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously
experimental with choices including roast turkey, almonds and
avocado, and the chef also extends his repertoire to cover numer-
ous Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-29z). TAGS
Vinci E-6, ul. Szeroka 10, tel. (+48) 12 423 08 74, www.
vinci-krakow.pl. An Italian offering from the proprietors of
Portofino, Vincis Tuscan orange colour palette and seasonal ter-
race seating are well-attuned to sunshine, and even the interior
is a bit of a pick-me-up when there isnt any outside. Brightened
by coloured tiles behind the bar, the wooden floors, majestic
lanterns and a decorative ceiling with wooden framing create
a comfortable rustic elegance. While the menu wont bowl you
over, it is reassuringly devoid of pizza, giving more credence to
the classic and delicious creamy pasta dishes. Fine food at a fair
price. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (15-46z). TA6IGSW
Virtuoso C-3, Rynek Gwny 44, tel. (+48) 664 03 36 78,
www.virtuosoristorante.pl. With this long, narrow location
on the market square, the owners have taken an admittedly
awkward space and turned it into a slick-seeming restaurant
that skirts the line between elegance and imitation. While the
red-tied waitstaff who take your order with a little electronic
gadget, the extensive menu and food itself - a celebration of
Italys elaborate culinary culture - play their respective roles
quite well, take a closer look at the interior and you begin to
notice how the pale unfinished timber framing clashes with the
wallpaper, how the black shag carpet exhibits the dirt it collects,
how the canopied ceiling hides cheap plastic roof sheeting.
What youre meant to notice, of course, is the fashion runway
entrance, the competence of the cuisine and the long cocktail
list - the latter of which only serves to suggest that Virtuosos
glass-half-empty elegance would be better served strictly as a
bar. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (18-59z). PTAIESW
After the invasion of Poland, the Nazis set about cultur-
ally crippling the country by eliminating its intellectual elite.
Krakw, Polands cultural capital, was an obvious target and
all the more necessary to subdue as the Nazis intended to
Germanise the entire region. Jagiellonian University, the sec-
ond oldest in Europe, was deemed to be of particular danger
to Nazi plans of brainwashing the population and under the
codename Sonderaktion Krakau, the Nazis orchestrated an
attack against Jagiellonians academics. On November 6th,
1939, German authorities ordered the Universitys rector to
require all professors to attend a lecture on German plans
for Polish education. The invitation was sent and when 144
professors gathered in lecture hall 66 of Collegium Novum,
as you can guess, no lecture took place there. Everyone in
the building was arrested, including non-academic univer-
sity employees and a few students. The flimsy context for
the arrest was that the university was operating without
German consent and all 183 detainees were sent to
Sachsenhausen or Dachau. Although initially spared the
gas chambers, the dire and disease-ridden conditions of
the concentration camps in winter were enough to claim the
lives of 15 professors before international outcry pressured
the Germans into releasing some of them. In February 1940,
101 professors over the age of 40 were released, though
5 died from poor health within days. The other 62 victims of
Sonderaktion Krakau became victims of the concentration
camps. Upon returning to Krakw the survivors formed an
underground resistance university in 1942, of which Karol
Wojtya the future Pope John Paul II was a student. Today
a plaque in front of Collegium Novum (B-3, ul. Gobia 24)
commemorates those professors who died or disappeared
and black flags are hung from all university buildings each
year on November 6th.
Sonderaktion Krakau
Valentines Day is a relatively modern concept in Poland
and, like Halloween, seems to have come from the west
over the past 20 years. For Poles the traditional lovers
day as it were would be Kupaa or St. Johns night which
is celebrated on the night of the 21st of June. Marking the
beginning of summer the tradition sees young women
making wreathes (wianki) of flowers which are then cast
off onto the water. According to tradition if your wreath
joins up with another you will have found a friend for life,
while if a young man snatches yours from the water you
will have found a partner for life.
Valentines day, however, is now established and you
will see many places promoting special Valentines Day
packages and offers. While we list those elsewhere, here
are some other ideas if you are here over the Valentines
weekend and want to romance your significant other.
First of all you could find yourself in very few cities more
suitable for a romantic weekend. The old town forms a
wonderful backdrop for a romantic tryst and a stroll around
its cobbled streets certainly helps set the mood. You might
also be interested in following a new tradition that has
sprung up in Krakow at the citys Love Bridge. The Father
Bernatek footbridge which links the Kazimierz and Podgorze
districts has been adopted by young lovers and follows a
trend seen in a number of other cities around the world.
The first thing youll notice about the bridge is that it is
covered in padlocks, many engraved with the names
of lovers. The legend behind this particular tradition
is remarkably modern. In 1992 Italian author and film-
maker Federico Moccia published a love story entitled
Tre metri sopra il cielo. The book told the story of two
young Italian lovers. The hero convinces his girl that it
is traditional to seal their everlasting love by attaching
a padlock to the third lamppost from the north side of
Romes Ponte Milvio. Having closed the padlock the key
was then thrown into the Tiber flowing below signifying
the bonding of the pair forever. While the book later went
onto become a film, the story prompted a series of Love
Bridges to spring up all over the world. In Krakow young
couples have taken to engraving padlocks with their
names before fastening them to the bridge and together
throwing the key into the Wisla. As you can see many
couples have already done this and the water below
the bridge must be swimming with small padlock keys.
After having secured your padlock take a stroll through
the old town, the particularly atmospheric Pl. Mariacki
and onto Planty, the park area ringing the old town. This
is a particularly magical place at this time of year, even
more so if covered in freshly fallen snow. Having set the
mood and no doubt worked up an appetite, why not head
for a romantic meal at one of the old town restaurants
offering special Valentines Day deals. While you would
struggle to go wrong at many, take a look at three of our
favourite places on or near the square Resto Iluminati,
Marmolada or Aqua e vino. And then having wined and
dined your partner finish the evening in one of our favou-
rite places for a romantic nightcap The Piano Rouge
on the square. The perfect end to a romantic evening.
You can pick up an engraved to order padlock in the
Galeria Kazimierz shopping mall. Letters cost 2.50zl
each and you should order it at least a day in advance.
Valentines Day
KRAKOW, Market Square 44
phone: +48 664 033 519, 664 033 586
www.rynek44.pl
R I S T O R A N T E
ONE PLACE
LOTS OF TASTES
KRAKOW Market Square KRAKOW Market Square 44 44
R I S T O R A N T E
POLISH
& ITALIAN
SPECIALITIES
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K A R C Z M A
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RESTAURANTS
67
RESTAURANTS
Musso Sushi A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48) 500
11 79 15, www.mussosushi.pl. The 4-year progression of
an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to go something like
this: Year one the city receives the moniker The New Prague,
year two a jillion hostels open, year three a jillion clubs open,
and year four - where Krakw currently finds itself - its all sushi
restaurants. Musso sushi seems to benefit from those who
came before by not having to try so hard. The menu is more
simple and straight-forward and here the chefs (shaved-head
Polish men that they are) are actually brave enough to prepare
your food right in front of you on the other side of the long dark
wooden bar which can seat about 30 people on its three sides.
They do a commendable job and we actually find eating here
to be more of a joy than an exercise in pretension. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (36-52z). PTA6VGS
Sushi 77 B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 10 94,
www.sushi77.com. Continuing its march across PL with the
conquest of Krakws Old Town, this highly regarded sushi chain
has hardly lost a step, delivering the real deal to a city that has
already proven it has a strong appetite for edible art. Sushi 77
may as well get in now, before its name denotes the number
of Japanese restaurants it can count as competition. Priding
themselves on their secret rice preparation recipe and imagina-
tive sushi sets, this is also the only place in Poland where you
can enjoy the innovation of warm sushi. Less awkwardly formal
and more affordable than the rest, 77 truly wins with authentic-
ity. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-59z). PTAVGSW
Sushi Bar Sakana C-2, ul. witego Jana 8, tel.
(+48) 12 429 30 86, www.sakana.pl. Sushi authorities
whove found themselves journeying around Poland will
already be familiar with the Sakana brand. With outlets
in Pozna, Wrocaw and Warsaw, opening in Krakw was
always the next step, and the team at Sakana have recre-
ated exactly what youll find in their sister restaurants;
excellent fresh sushi served up in a bamboo clad interior
decorated sparingly with rice paper panels and lanterns.
Enjoy a cleansing miso soup, or opt for expertly prepared
sets of Cali fornian maki made by staff clearly schooled
in the delicate art of Japanese culinary mastery. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
(30-50z). PTA6UVGSW
Youmiko Sushi Bar B-2, ul. Szczepaska 7, tel. (+48)
12 421 26 99, www.youmiko-sushi.pl. Ornamented with
shining red discs on the pristine walls this goes beyond the
standard oriental dcor, and theres absolutely no faulting the
sushi - prepared in front of your eyes by experts. Tucked in
the depths of a narrow passage between the market square
and Plac Szczepaski, both venue and menu are tiny, serving
to prove that old saying about small packages. Popular for a
business lunch, takeaway or have them deliver. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (20-63z). A6VGSW
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar D-3, ul. w. Tomasza
29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. The
sushi boom that seems to have consumed Warsaw is in
full stride here in Krakw as well. Zen outdoes much of the
competition by hitting the authentic Japanese interior dead
on with a first floor sushi canal arrangement where custom-
ers can snare different servings as they float by; dishes are
colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your
inflating tab. On the more formal second floor, dine ala carte
on traditional floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort
not to pander to purists, but rather create an amalgam of
European and Asian ingredients and flavours with dishes
like sake-marinated beef or duck marinated in orange and
cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-300z). PTA6VGSW
Japanese
Edo Sushi D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 3, tel. (+48) 12 422
24 24, www.edosushi.pl. Krakws first Japanese restau-
rant can now sit back and look at what their success and
excellence has wrought upon a restaurant market rapidly
approaching Warsaws level of sushi super-saturation. Edo
still stands as one of the best with a huge menu inside a calm
environment filled with recorded bird songs and rice-paper
panels. Check out the private room; a traditional shoes off
experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
23:00. (29-54z). PAGSW
Genji Premium Sushi D-5, ul. Dietla 55, tel. (+48)
12 429 59 59, www.genji.pl. While virtually unheard of in
Krakw a few years ago, Genji is the latest in a line of raw fish
flayers to come to town, and the high quality food, prepared
by Japanese sushi chefs, makes an instant argument for
itself as the cream of the local crop. An upstairs sushi bar
leads to an intimate brick downstairs dining area where each
table occupies its own room. Taking itself a bit too seriously
to explain some of the kitschy decor touches, the extensive
menu of Korean and Japanese dishes and expensive sushi
sets also includes condescending directions on how to
eat your food. However all is forgiven when it arrives, with
eyebrow-raising prices justified by the spot-on results. Pre-
mium indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-60z). PTAVGSW
Horai D-7, Pl. Wolnica 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 03 58, www.
horairestaurant.pl. A veritable veteran of the sushi scene at
this point, Horai had a significant hand in turning Plac Wolnica
over from a culinary no-mans-land to a stable of respectable
restaurants. An enticing menu with broad appeal covers
Japanese and Thai cuisine with an extensive selection of sushi
sets, curries and grill offerings inside an appealling interior of
rice-paper partitions, origami hijinks and enormous illuminated
panoramas of Tokyo in the back room. One of the most afford-
able meals of its kind in town and still one of the best. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (17-50z). PTAUVGSW
NEW
Kura D-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 502 37 71 80, www.
restauracjakura.pl. If you are one of those people who likes
to see ethnic food prepared by a native of that country, then
Kura should be on your list. Just off Kazimierzs Pl. Nowy, find the
man in question going about his business in a compact, modern
setting. We plumped for the set menu Kura 120 which was
enough for one and a half male appetites, which was very tasty
and allowed us to sample from across the menu. Incidentally
120 refers to the price not the number of pieces of sushi you
get although they do a 50 piece for 100zl take-away special. The
Japanese chef is so insistent on authenticity that the restaurant
is closed on his day off apparently. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (10-150z). PTAGSW
Miyako Sushi D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 12 628 72 52, www.miyakosushi.pl. The first outfit to
introduce the sushi phenomenon to this now overly soy-sauced
city, Miyako fell victim to their own popularising of the craze
when they folded up their main location on the market square.
Little surprise there, however, as the brand has always shone
brighter in its more modern locations inside the city shopping
centres - Krakowska and Bonarka. A standard range of sushi
at each takes a backseat to the sashimi sets: an investment
of 45z buys you a bargain 20 cuts of raw fish, though the pride
of place comes reserved for the gyututaki - strips of raw beef
marinated in vinegar. Also at ul. Kamieskiego 11 (I-5, Bonarka
City Center, open 10:00-21:00). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. (21-79z). PTAUSW
While Krakws regal associations are common knowl-
edge, its easy to remain ignorant of its connections with
communism, and speci fically Comrade Lenin who for
two years called the city home. Lenin arrived in Krakw
on June 22, 1912 on the overnight train from Vienna,
wife and mother-in-law in tow. Working as a freelance
journalist for Russian papers like Pravda he took rented
lodgings first on Krolowej Jadwigi, behind the Salwator
tram terminus, and then on ul. Lubomirskiego 47. His
favoured hangout was Noworolski caf (Rynek Gwny
1), a spot he used to entertain both wife and lover, and
letters to his mother also reveal him attending concerts
at what is now the Graffiti Centre on ul. w. Jana. One of
Lenins great passions was ice skating, and hed often be
seen spinning deft moves on an ice rink which once stood
close to the Botanical Gardens. In warmer months hed
pass time cycling in the Wolski Forest as well as taking
romantic walks through Bonie Meadows.
Summers were spent in Poronin, just outside Zakopane,
where he would play chess and hang out with Polish
heavyweight writers like Witkiewicz and eromski. His
reputation as a good-for-nothing finally caught up with
him however, and on August 8th, 1914 he was arrested
as an enemy of the state and imprisoned in Nowy Targ.
Released days later he returned to Krakw to pack his
bags and fled to Switzerland. Within years the show-off
ice skater would become one of the most famous names
in world history.
Lenin in Krakow
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start
with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled
(usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame
seeds, obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every
other street corner in Krakw, and are so inescapable
theyve become an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact
the obwarzanek is one of only two Polish foods currently
protected by the EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known
as the Krakowian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name
from the Polish word for par-boiled and therefore differs
slightly from the bagel, in addition to being its interna-
tionally popular counterparts predecessor. Though the
origins of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and
hotly-contested, most agree that it was invented by
Krakw Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted
the decree that formerly restricted the production of
baked goods to the Krakw Bakers Guild. First written
mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile dates back to
1394, meaning that its been a daily sight on Krakws
market square for over 600 years. Though increased
tourism in recent years has jacked the price of an ob-
warzanek up to around 1.30z, youll still see countless
people on the go munching these pretzel rings. Tasty and
filling when fresh, the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek
leaves a lot up to chance. Krakowian bakers produce up
to 200,000 obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the
fact that on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-
by date of about three hours. As such, finding a hot one
is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki
also feed Krakws entire pigeon population when in the
evenings the citys 170-180 obwarzanki carts essentially
become bird-food vendors.
The Obwarzanek
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU
countries with no or very few prohibitions on smoking, a
new law brought in on the 15th November 2010 aimed to
limit the activities of smokers in public places.
Smoking is now completely banned on public transport in-
cluding taxis, trains, company cars, public transport stops,
childrens playgrounds, schools, universities, workplaces,
sports arenas and other places where the public gather.
Owners are obliged to clearly place a clear and visible No
Smoking sign and anyone caught smoking by either the
police or local city guard is subject to a 500zl fine.
There are, however, exceptions. It is possible to smoke
in some bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places.
The law states that there can be a SEPARATE ROOM
created for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated
and closed off from the other public areas (originally this
was only going to be permitted in premises over 100m
2
,
but that doesnt seem to have been included). As many
places listed in this guide are simply too small to allow
for a separate room, this has automatically made them
subject to the ban. To help you to find or avoid places
which will continue to allow smoking on the premises we
have used the following symbols throughout the guide
G This place has a complete ban on smoking on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Having now had some time to gauge reaction it appears
that owners have followed one of three courses of action.
Firstly they have through choice or necessity obeyed the
law and the whole premises are now non-smoking. A
second group, generally those with bigger premises, have
exercised their right to build a smoking room. The third
group have examined the wording of the law and then driven
an articulated lorry through the holes left by incompetent
legislators. We have seen examples of entire bars allowing
smoking by making the vast majority of the place smoking
with a small area in the front, back or downstairs, set aside
for non-smokers. We have even seen an example of two
restaurants joining together and claiming the smoking area
is in one restaurant while the non-smoking area is in the
one next door. And were not sure if some of the bars and
clubs in Kazimierz are even aware that there is a new law
at all. The looseness of the wording of the new law and
the apparent inability or will to police it suggest that while
it will certainly reduce smoking in many public places, it will
still allow it to continue in a lot of others. Choose carefully.
Smoking
68
RESTAURANTS
69
RESTAURANTS
Jewish
Ariel E- 6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79
20, www.ariel - krakow.pl. Youll hear mi xed reports
emanating from Ari el, and whil e our turkey steak was
li ttl e better than disappointing weve met more than a
number of peopl e extolling the virtues of Ari els vari ed
Jewish cuisine. The setting is typi cal of the distri ct, wi th
anti ques and hei rl ooms al l udi ng to the Kazi mi erz of
yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated in a charmingl y
cluttered styl e. The li ve musi c is a popular draw, though
you may appreciate i t l ess when you l earn you are being
charged to listen to i t. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (15-65z).
PA6UIEXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Ka-
zimierz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17.
From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row
of early century trade shops and is decorated with awnings
relating to the areas Jewish heritage. Things are no less
colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines
and carpenters work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great
attempt at capturing the Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit
for those tracing the districts past. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(18-39z). AUESW
Klezmer Hois E- 6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12
411 12 45, www.kl ezmer.pl . Late 19th centur y
dcor and a j umbl e of rugs and pai nti ngs; the i nte-
ri or of Kl ezmer Hoi s fol l ows the Kazi mi erz code for
i nteri or desi gn but i ts the strong menu that keeps
the staf f busy and the restaurant packed. We rec-
ommend the chi cken i n honey and gi nger. Each ni ght
sti rri ng musi c reci tal s keep the crowds amused and
the wi ne fl owi ng. QOpen 11: 00 - 21: 30. (17- 47z).
TA6EGSW
Latin American
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel.
(+48) 12 426 01 01. Two enterprisi ng fri ends have
consummated the strange marriage of their strikingl y
di fferent national cuisines in the form of Diego i Bohumil
- Krakws uni que Argenti nean-Czech restaurant. The
menu is an even split of dishes from the two countries
and should soon be available in English, making it all the
easier to evaluate ordering Argentinean highlights (like
empanadas or Canelones) other than the steak - still a
reliably fantastic value at 36z. Located on a quiet street
midway between the Old Town and Kazimierz, enjoy the
range of Argentinean wines in the simple interior, where
images of gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the walls
al ongsi de characters from Czech fol kl ore. Great food
and great prices have made DiB a fast favourite. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (13-36z). TAIGSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22
77, www.manzana.com.pl. This time we were happy to eat
our own words for dinner. On a return trip to Manzana, there
was narry a nit to pick: the food was excellent and we can
heartily recommend the salmon, which not only looked, but
tasted exquisite. Manzanas New Latin concept consists
of meat and fish dishes alongside reinvented classics (the
massive burritos can be prepared a number of ways) served
in a chic interior of dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and
low-level Latin music. Though the prices aim a bit high, the
service and atmosphere are comfortably relaxed, making
Manzana the kind of place youd want to frequent often.
QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 22:00.
(22-99z). PTAUGSW
Pimiento E- 6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25
02, www.pimiento.pl. Behind the gloss and sheen of
Pimiento, this place is about meat and little more; big
unapologetic hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in
town, Pimiento gets all their meat straight from Argentina,
so i f youve had one too many Polish cutlets and want a
proper steak, head here. Prices appear steep until you
remember how much a good steak costs wherever you
last had one, and a selection of South American wines
wash it down. A second location in the Old Town at ul.
Stolarska 13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-96z). PTAGSW
Mediterranean
Bistro Marago B-3, ul. Podwale 2, tel. (+48) 12 429
40 06, www.maragobistro.com. Bright and breezy hoch-
basement bistro on Podwale, across the road from Planty
Park. The menu is vaguely Mediterranean, though it has a
few Polish touches (such as five types of pierogi). Good staff
and a friendly vibe is given off by the local after work crowd
that seems to use the place as a dining room. Well worth
your time. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. (14-28z). TAIGSW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E- 6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 430 14 51. This little cafe/restaurant pretty much
represents everything we love about Kazimierz: a charmingly
kooky, casual atmosphere of effortless originality created
by candlelight and a clutter of battered musical instruments.
The food - risottos, pasta, salads, pizza and more - is gener-
ous in portioning and rich in flavour without any notion that
your wallet will be, making Warsztat an excellent detour from
the days agenda. Recommended but one word of warning.
They are likely to move premises to D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 1
sometime during February. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (15-43z).
A6GSW
Mexican
Burrito Buffet J-1, ul. Warszawska 20/3, tel. (+48)
12 633 04 09, www.burritobuffet.com.pl. Great news
for anyone who wasnt aware that theres good Mexican in
Krakw, there most certainly is. Serving quesadillas and
wraps the size of a beer stein, get yours loaded with chicken,
pork, beef, fish, shrimp, or beans and cheese in addition to
the assortment of fresh veggies and sauces standard with
each. No pickles or cabbage in sight, instead enjoy genuine
Mexican fillings like refried beans, jalapeos, guacamole
and hot sauce thats properly hot. With burritos the way
they should be, ie. made to order, it beats the carrots out
of a Krakowian kebab and for about the same price too.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (9-15z).
AUVGSW
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo C- 4, ul. Poselska 20,
tel. (+48) 12 421 54 41, www.tacomexicano.pl.
This perpetually packed veteran restaurant is one of the
most popular in Krakw and its a damn shame. Meals
are preceded by peanuts (not tortilla chips and salsa),
the margaritas are strong but shallow, the spicy sauce is
shockingly mild, theres not a black bean in sight and meals
come buried beneath two sides of pickled cabbage. The
cheerful Mexican cantina interior is the primary highlight
and we can only guess that its the novel and disorient-
ing dissimilarity between Polish and Mexican cuisine that
continues to make El Pueblo the coveted choice of every
local couple out on a cheap date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Thu 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (22-40z).
PTA6XSW
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any
Polish restaurant or bar mleczny in town, weve given
you our picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy
camper and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego!
Bigos
Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in
large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingre-
dients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage,
leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms,
garlic and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically
Bigos translates to big mess, confusion or trouble in
Polish. Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway
and the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes
underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Polish
restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured on
the strength of their Bigos; weve had the best at Mid
Malina, Bar Smak and Kamils moms house.
Gobki
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists
of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army
gobki before a battle outside Malbork against the
Teutonic Order, and their unlikely subsequent victory has
been attributed to the hearty meal ever since. Bolster
your own courage at Polakowski or try the creative
veggie versions at Vega Bar.
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, youd be best served to buy it at a road-
side stand as youre driving through the countryside, but
there are two places in Krakw that have proven peerless
when it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria where its
served with pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where
the servings slip right off the bone and are so impossibly
large wed prefer not to know where they came from.
Kiebasa
Sausages, and in Poland youll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties
to watch for including Krakowska, a Krakw specialty
seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry
sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a
blood sausage filled with groats and pigs blood. These
youll find in any delikatesy or butcher shop, but head to
the Hala Targowa marketplace (E-4) anytime between
nightfall and sunrise to get a taste of Krakws most
famous sausage. Here, two old-timers have been serving
kiebasa out of a van, cooking it over a woodstoked grill,
since time immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand.
Naleniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you
can dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way
out in any dodgy Polish dining establishment, Kolanko
6 succeeds in making them memorable, while Vega Bar
has a unique Ukrainian interpretation which cant be beat.
Cracovian Cooking A-O
Pierogi
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie),
sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawber-
ries or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings
like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly
limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere in
the city; head to Zapiecek or Pieroki U Vincenta for
impressive arrays of original options or head to U Babci
Maliny for an unconventional fried (not boiled or steamed)
Pierogi served with a wooden fork on a plate made of bread.
Placki
These greasy, fried potato pancakes (placki ziemniaczane)
are very similar to Jewish latkes (if that means anything to
you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served with sauce
or goulash on top, sometimes with fruit or simply with sour
cream, you cant go wrong with the stations of Plac Nowys
roundhouse (D-6; the longer the queue, the better the food),
and Babci Malinys Placki po Wgiersku is generally
accepted as one of the most delicious and highly-caloric
meals youll ever have anywhere in your life.
Smalec
Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage
or a taste of urek generally draw the line here. An animal
fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better,
we say) and served with hunks of homemade bread,
Smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug
of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt
should give you lashings of this prior to your meal; try
Chata,Pod Baranem or Polskie Jado.
Soup
Poland has three signature soups: Barszcz, urek and
Flaczki. A nourishing beetroot soup, Barszcz may be served
with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a crokiet or Pierogi
floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drink-
ing. It doesnt get any more Polish than urek a unique
sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg
chucked in. Our vote goes to Bar Smak, recently beating
out Od Zmierzchu Do witus urek z jajkiem as the
best in town (an accolade not to be underestimated), but
you also cant beat U Babci Malinys batch eaten out of a
breadbowl. If youre of strong constitution and feeling truly
adventurous, spring for Flaczki beef tripe soup enriched
with veggies, herbs and spices. A hearty standby in most
kitchens, we personally save the pleasure for compromising
situations involving mother-in-laws, but you can take your
chances at Chopskie Jado.
Zapiekanka
The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train sta-
tion in PL and youll get a stale baguette cut in half, covered
with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and
squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least.
However the vendors of Kazimierzs Plac Nowy (D-6) have
made a true art out of the Polish pizza. With endless embel-
lishments and add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked
cheese, chicken, pickles, pineapple, feta you name it),
garlic sauce and chives have essentially become standard
procedure at this point. Because of their popularity youll
witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the
Roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 6/7z its a great value
and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave
town without having tried a Plac Nowy Zapiekanka would be
felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Krakw.
Cracovian Cooking P-Z
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RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
Polish
Awiw E-6, ul. Szeroka 13, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 79, www.
awiw.pl. Beetroot soup never tasted so good as it does at
Awiw, accompanied with tasty croquette potatoes. Twenty-five
different kinds of pierogi are also on hand for those tired of
potato and cheese standbys. Given Szerokas not unfounded
reputation as a growing tourist trap you could do worse than
at this place, where though overall the food does not win
prizes for originality it will not cost you a fortune either. If all
the tables out front are occupied (as they usually are), dont
miss the patio at the back. And they have now added a heated
garden for winter. Q Open 12:00-22:00. From March Open
10:00-22:00. (8-49z). TAIEGSW
Bar Grodzki C-4, ul. Grodzka 47, tel. (+48) 12 422
68 07, www.grodzkibar.zaprasza.net. Experience the
days of commie Poland in this delicious blast from the past.
Find everyone from tramps to war veterans tucking into the
cheapest food youre ever liable to stumble on. Dine on boil-
ing hot plates of traditional Polish goo and cabbage amid an
interior reminiscent of a young offenders unit. Downstairs
take your food in a typically atmospheric Krakowian cellar.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (8-19z). 6GS
Biaa Ra I-3, ul. Straszewskiego 16, tel. (+48) 12
421 51 90, www.restauracjabialaroza.pl. While many
of Krakws finer restaurants emphasize everything that is
medieval about traditional Polish food, Biaa Ra has no dif-
ficulty demonstrating it as entirely contemporary and (gasp)
European. Well-presented, outstanding fish and meat dishes
(our pork sirloins coated with bacon, walnuts and basil with
rokpol sauce (42z) were delicious) betray the prices, and the
pre-meal cabbage pastry - while an apt introduction to Pol-
ish culinary invention - does a disservice to whats to come.
Popular with older holidaymakers staying at the next door
Radisson, Biaa Ra offers fine service and fine dining in a
spacious off-white interior of gold columns and understated
swirl patterns with a fireplace and frosty chandeliers. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (18-60z). PTAUIGSW
Bordo B-3, ul. Gobia 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 19 01.
Seemingly trendy for not trying to be overly trendy, this ver-
satile new locale functions as a bar, cafe and cheap eatery
serving meat cutlets, pierogi and other Polish standards. The
results are nothing to turn your nose up at and represent a
great value - particularly the daily special which includes
soup, entree and dessert for only 13.90z. The courtyard
garden full of hanging plants is a lovely spot for a budget
lunch, while the tastefully modern interior is a more intimate
spot for young couples enjoying cocktails and cheap beer
until long after the kitchen closes at 22:00. Bordos the kind
of place that requires little to be said, other than we like it.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (13-24z). AXSW
Chata C-1, ul. Krowoderska 21, tel. (+48) 888 10 11 00,
www.polskakuchnia.com.pl. Hardly where one would expect
to find a rustic mountain cottage, this largely unheralded Polish
folk restaurant just north of the Old Town is one of the best in the
area and offers a great introduction to carnivorous inclinations
of traditional Polish cuisine. Meals begin with some of the best
smalec (savoury lard spread) weve ever had as guests peruse a
budget menu that comprises a veritable menagerie of grilled ani-
mals. A great winter oasis, step off the dirty streets into Chatas
homely interior - made almost entirely of large unfinished timber
logs, from the walls to the tables and benches - and relax near
the fireplace on one of the many sheepskin rugs that make up
the decor. In summer, stop in for a cold beer and traditional beer
snacks. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 23:00. (12-45z).
A6IEGSW
Polish traditional cuisine
Ul. Octun 5
tel. 12 4211901
vvv.ucrdc-krnkcv.pl
Summer garden
1lc ucst prccs r tcvr
Chimera B-3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12
12, www.chimera.com.pl. Once combining budget food
with sophisticated surroundings, the sumptuous cellars of
Chimera have been given over to the fine dining establish-
ment that once resided next door, while the budget buffet is
now only on the terraced garden (see Quick Eats). Elegant
and ethereal with a surrealist sense of humour amidst the
secessionist decor, this underground charmer is favoured
by local art mavens and academic owls dining on a range
of Polish game options (geese, rabbit, deer) unveiled from
beneath silver serving domes at the table. A stage hosts
puppet shows on weekends and evening piano recitals
are frequent. Splendid. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-55z).
TA6IEGSW
Chopskie Jado C-3, ul. w. Jana 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 51 57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. A usually reliable
romp through the glories of Polish country cooking. The
menu is a labyrinth of peasant dishes, with a vast choice
of what nomrally amounts to enormous helpings of meat
and potatoes, and complimentary lard to start your meal.
Bright blue interiors come decorated with jars and pickles
and strings of sausages, and staff are kitted out like saucy
country wenches. Also on ul. w. Agnieszki 1, C-6, (Open
12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00.) QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12-49z). TAGS
C.K. Browar (H.M. Brewery) B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7,
tel. (+48) 12 429 25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. A
huge and rowdy cellar complex with a restaurant, bar and
disco in three seperate sections. The food is pretty tasty,
well priced and Austrian-inspired. Their home-brewed beers
come by the glass or in tall pipes: a private tap on your table.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (19-45z).
PTAEXSW
C.K. Dezerter (H.M. Deserters) C-3, ul. Bracka 6,
tel. (+48) 12 422 79 31, www.ckdezerter.pl. Yellowing
pictures of soldiers posing in trenches and a collection of
19th century clocks decorate this rustic-styled restaurant.
Food has influences from around Central Europe with big
helpings of steaks, pork, chicken and other farm animals.
The Slovak cheese soup is a good starter, the pork in brown
sauce a decent follow-up. While you wont regret your visit
you probably wont be making plans for a return. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
(15-37z). PTA6UGS
Gospoda Koko B-3, ul. Gobia 8, tel. (+48) 12 430 21
35. The real virtue of Koko is revealed at 2:00 in the morning
when you want a civilised sit down meal without the company
of tzatziki dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of
stodgy Polish classics like pierogis and fried cutlets for the
same price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a
handy alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach
without making a mess of their shirtfront. Formerly stuffed
into an obscure back corner, Kokos popularity has brought
about the opening of a second street-side dining room which
significantly outclasses the original space in terms of rustic
charm. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. (10-14z). TA6GSW
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34 (ground floor), tel.
(+48) 12 428 15 20, www.hawelka.pl. Krakws moved
on, but Hawelka hasnt. If you want to experience the Krakw
of olde, this enduring, achingly formal holdover is the place
to do it, just like Queen Elisabeth II, the King of Greece and
numerous Austro-Hungarian Archdukes before them did at
one time. The menu is an encyclopedic choice of traditional
Polish game and seafood dishes served without interruption
or reinvention since 1876, and the dining room is a very green
(popular colour in those days) trip back to the turn of the
Eccentric, flamboyant and tragic, Witkacy combined these
ingredients to become one of Polands premier avant-garde
icons. A prolific playwright, painter and photographer, the
Warsaw-born, Zakopane-reared weirdo was at the forefront
of Polish abstract art. The mysterious suicide of his fianc in
1914 (whom he was accused of butchering) compelled him
to seek solace in Australasia where he became involved in
scientific expeditions. On hearing of the outbreak of war he
returned to fight for an elite Tsarist unit. Serving with distinc-
tion against the Germans he was wounded, and returned
to Poland to continue his descent into the depression that
was to dominate his life.
As he plunged into heavy spells of morphine, cocaine
and peyote abuse his paintings became all the more
inspired. Twisted portraits of his high-society friends
(heads springing from penises, beastly animal shapes
flying in the background) became his trademark. He
experimented with all forms of modern art, started his
own theatre company in Zakopane (an hour south of
Krakw) and expanded on his philosophical theories.
A rabid anti-communist, Witkacy was hell-bent on proving
that an individuals aims would always be different from
that of society and state. When the Red Army crossed into
Poland on October 17, 1939, sensing the end of civilisation,
he shot himself. Originally buried in a far-flung corner of
the Ukraine, Witkacys body was returned to Zakopane
in 1988. But in a scene that wouldnt have been amiss
in one of his satires, it eventually emerged that bungling
officials had buried the wrong corpse. Visitors to Krakw
can see a large collection Witkacys wacked-out paintings
on the top floor of the National Museum (H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1).
Witkiewicz
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RESTAURANTS
20th century with a reproduction of Jan Matejkos massive
Prussian Homage looming over the proceedings - perhaps
the only inauthentic thing about having a meal in this leg-
endary local institution. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-69z).
PTAXSW
Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69,
www.jarema.pl. Classy Eastern Polish and other dishes
from the region in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century set-
ting. Waitresses in traditional costume serve from a large
menu including steak with quail eggs, a few vegetarian
dishes, pheasant and wild boar. Despite the harking back
to the good old days, this is not your classic tourist trap.
Highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-49z).
PTA6UIVEGSW
NEW
Karczma Staropolska C-3, Rynek Gwny 44, tel.
(+48) 664 03 36 78. Polish restaurants going for that country
cottage theme are 10 a penny in Krakow these days, but this
one justifies inclusion because of its location on the Rynek,
its bright new dcor (think stripped pine, fake windows) and
the presentation. The pork chops with gravy comes served on
a silver platter with real gravy, and the sides of baked potato
slices and roasted beetroot complimented the dish perfectly.
Waitresses in authentic dress compliment the dcor which
will look all the better once its been lived in for a bit. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (16-45z). PTAIEXSW
Kawaleria Szara Smaku (Cavalry) B-3, ul. Gobia
4, tel. (+48) 12 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl.
Three vaulted rooms decorated with an equine motif - paint-
ings of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and
hunting trophies - as well as an atmospheric whitewashed
courtyard featuring a stone fireplace and potted shrubbery.
The menu is a strong review of upmarket Polish dishes with
wild boar and suchlike making appearances. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00. (23-56z). TAUIGSW
Kuchnia u Doroty D-6, ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48) 517
94 53 38. Legendary local favourite serving traditional Polish
dishes with slightly more ambiance than a milk bar. A great
introduction to the concept that so much food could cost
so little, the house specialty potato pancakes with goulash
could easily feed a cavalry and still have a little something
for you left over. Delicious home cookin. Dorota, yer a doll.
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (8-15z). IGS
Marchewka z Groszkiem D-7, ul. Mostowa 2, tel.
(+48) 12 430 07 95. This friendly little cafe/restaurant off
Plac Wolnica has Sunday morning stamped all over it. The
decor of antique furnishings and framed curiosities is half
home-sweet-home, half Kazimierz half-light and the menu of
Polish staples, breakfast items, pastas and salads brings
above average results at below average prices. The highlight,
however, has to be the assortment of bottled microbrews
and Ukrainian beers, making The Carrot and Pea as ideal for
an early evening drink as it is for a morning coffee. Recom-
mended. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (9-20z). TAUGSW
Marmolada C-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49
46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. While Krakws su-
per-saturated restaurant market has seen plenty of tankings
of late, the team behind the ever-popular and duly praised
Mid Malina continues to expand. Marmolada - their latest
- follows the tried and true trend of Polish and Italian dishes,
prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large stone oven
before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long and cavernous,
Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns, canopied ceilings, big
timber tables and poinsettas to create their unique combina-
tion of a comfortable local atmosphere and low prices with
great food and service. Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors
down from the citys most exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek),
and leave with a 30z receipt. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-
52z). PTAUEGSW
Mini-Bar Endzior D- 6, Pl. Nowy 4b/14, tel. (+48)
12 429 37 54. Trust the line of cheapskates, tramps
and drunks that form a queue outside this hole-in-the-wall
budget experience. These sorts know a bargain when they
see one and Endzior can stake a claim as a bona fide
Kazimierz legend. Found in the Plac Nowy roundhouse,
invisible cooks serve up the best zapiekanka in the district
through a small hatchway, though its the massive cutlets
that have got us making repeat visits. There is no better
place to line your stomach before hitting the bars than
this popular snack bar. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Closed
Sun. (10-15z). S
Mid i Wino (Honey and Wine) C-2, ul. Sawkowska
32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl. Cham-
pion dishes of traditional Polish fare in a setting piled as
high as the food with muskets, antlers and suits of armour.
All extras (vegetables, bread) cost extra, and youll need
to explain clearly how you expect your meat to be cooked;
but the flair of the service, quality of the food and fondness
of the folk musicians playing full force nearby create a fun
atmosphere thats completely worth being in. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (14-68z). PTAUEGS
Mid Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka
40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Con-
sistently excellent meals have seen Miod Malina establish
themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book
ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by
the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking res-
taurant comes with raspberries painted onto the walls and
a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral
touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy cottage
atmosphere, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and
Italian cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low
making a visit here not just recommended (as the Michelin
Guide 2010 did) but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-
45z). PTAUIGSW
Nostalgia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12 425 42
60, www.nostalgia.krakow.pl. Smashing Polish cuisine
served inside an intriguing interior that features a fireplace,
wood beams and a galaxy of rural decorative touches. Its
a light and warming design with plenty of glass bottles and
rusty trappings to act as visual diversions and the menu
proves equally well thought out. Choose from local classics
like the wonderfully fluffy pierogi or opt for the king-sized duck
served with baked apples. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-75z).
PTAUIXSW
Ogniem i Mieczem (With Fire and Sword) J-5,
Pl. Serkowskiego 7, tel. (+48) 12 656 23 28, www.
ogniemimieczem.pl. Crowded with barrels of mead, bear
skins and even a winged Hussar, the timber interior is a
masterpiece. But the history isnt confined to the dcor - the
recipes were researched in the local Jagiellonian Library. Its
essentially a feast of meat with roast pig on a spit being the
specialty. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 21:30. (25-
50z). PAUIXS
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RESTAURANTS
Percheron Restaurant A-5, ul. Zwierzyniecka 31,
tel. (+48) 12 379 59 50, www.percheron.pl. Located
inside the same premises as the recommended Orangery,
Percheron offers a wealth of international food amidst
modern furnishings and photographs of old Krakw. Dine
on a range of dishes from carpaccio (allegedly the largest
selection in the city) to fish to fresh pasta. The restaurant is
also available for large bookings for groups looking for that
extra-special occasion. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00. (15-68z).
PTA6UGSW
Pieroki u Vincenta D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 12, tel.
(+48) 501 74 74 07, www.pierozkiuvincenta.pl. This
cult eatery has enjoyed enough success to open a now
stunning six locations around Krakw. Though it may be
impossible to reinvent a food as versatile as the pierogi,
U Vincente has tried with apple and liver, minced meat and
lentils, and chicken and spinach among the two dozen or
more options - and top it off with your choice of a variety of
sauces and extras. Popular, cheap and cheerful (thanks to a
sunflowered Van Gogh interior), takeaway may be your best
option at peak feed times. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:00. (9-40z). AGS
Pod Anioami (Under the Angel) C-4, ul. Grodzka 35,
tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. Sit in the
cellar and you can watch your shashlyk and steak grill right
before your eyes. Filled with benches and casks, Under The
Angels presents good food and an engaging atmosphere.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (26-64z). PTA6GSW
Pod Baranem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48)
12 429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. An admirable
establishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed
brick and wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural
of Krakw in one of the rooms, offset by framed photos of
family and guests on the walls, creates a truly comfortable
and classy dining environment. Serving Polish standards
including Jewish-style carp and cream of wild mushroom
soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features more meat than
youll find at a livestock market, with deer and wild boar get-
ting into the menagerie as well. Our shredded pork wrapped
in cabbage leaves with mushroom sauce left us more than
satisfied, but the true standout was the complimentary pre-
meal smalec and bread - maybe the best weve tasted in
Krakw. For those stricken with food allergies, this is one of
the only places in town to offer gluten-free meals, of which
their menu dedicates a page. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-
65z). PTAIXS
Pod Lwem J-4, ul. Jzefiska 4, tel. (+48) 519 37 47
37. Not exactly compelling proof of Podgrzes oncoming
emergence from its wartime shadow, Pod Lwems opening
is nonetheless noteworthy testament to the districts de-
velopment. Unfortunately the boring, understated interior of
candy-striped benches and a few strips of wallpaper suggest
that something is definitely missing here. That something
might be imagination or merely stronger investment. Playing
it safe with standard Polish fare, Pod Lwem sports an English
menu and certainly has its foot in the door in a neighbourhood
about to be directly connected to Kazimierz with a new bridge.
Maybe theyll use it to cross the river and realise its going to
take a little more creativity to turn this area into a real dining
destination. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(9-46z). TAIGSW
Pod Socem (Under the Sun) C-3, Rynek Gwny
43, tel. (+48) 12 422 93 78 ext.16, www.gehanowska.
pl. A typically beauti ful Old Town cellar which includes a
stone carving of Mr. Sun casting an eye over diners. The
pancakes are a substantial meal in themselves, and theres
a heap of grilled and skewered animals to pick from as well.
Meals are delivered by an efficient team of scurrying wait-
ers and pretty blondes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (15-48z).
PTA6ISW
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.
eu. The place to visit i f youre looking to hit your daily calorie
quota in one meal. Huge portions of acceptable food helped
by enormous amounts of veg, cascade off the steel pans
and wooden boards theyre served on, while uni formed
staff weave between the bench seating serving frothing
steins of lager. Great for groups and families, kids have
their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak
up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic live
folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and hal f-price on
Mondays, and theres a handy vomitorium in the mens
room - i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering
from over-consumption to hock their recently imbibed pork
hocks.QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (15-45z).
PTAUEGSW
Polakowski D-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421
21 17, www.polakowski.com.pl. The definitive local dining
experience. Join the queue and order big plates of piping hot
food dished up from metal containers, before bussing your
dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from the likes of
cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet salad sides,
soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far better than it
looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave. Essentially
an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the extra yard (or
justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and English lan-
guage menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich witych 10 (C-4) and in
M1 (Al. Pokoju 67). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (7-20z). AGS
Famous restaurant on the Royal
Route from Wawel Castle to the
Main Square.
Traditional Polish cuisine using old
recipes and a charred beech wood
grill. Courtyard garden and
a medieval atmosphere.
Te time seems to stopped
here and one can still feel the
atmosphere of medieval Cracow.
www.podaniolami.pl
catering service
Krakw, ul. Grodzka 35,
Reservation:
012 4213999
Polskie Jado Compendium Culinarium C-2, ul. w.
Jana 30, tel. (+48) 12 433 98 25, www.polskiejadlo.com.
pl. A hunters heaven with big slabs of animals cooked to local
recipes and served up in dinosaur-size portions by multi-lingual
staff. This chain of restaurants have established themselves
as the place to go for a first time test of Polish hospitality, and
the rough cut, faux peasant interiors really come alive when
the sound of live mountain bands pass through. Expect all the
mainstays of Polish country cooking to make an appearance
on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-80z). PTAGS
Polskie Jado Kuchnia Polska i Ocienne C-3, Rynek
Gwny 23, tel. (+48) 12 423 81 35, www.polskiejadlo.
com.pl. The brainchild of the man who formerly owned the
Chopskie Jado group, its no surprise that the interiors of Polskie
Jado are as near an approximation to his previous venture as
the name is, albeit this time within the ancient confines of a fine
market square location: turquoise walls offset by rough hewn rock
and vaults, corners cluttered with clanky farmyard tools and peas-
ant furnishings. Yet this is more than a mere copycat; in fact, the
menu is far superior to its predecessor and despite giving Polish
food and hospitality a bit too much of a Disney treatment, Polskie
Jado still makes for an ideal introduction to both, particularly for
groups. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (16-80z). PTA6GS
Ssiedzi D-6, ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48) 500 03 32 18,
www.oberza.pl. The creaking menu of classic Polish food
boasts a breakfast like at your neighbours house whatever
that means, but dont let a baffling outburst of Dada prose put
you off. The staff are refreshingly friendly and the honeycomb
of rooms in the cellar sets the stage for a collection of more
comprehensible tucker such as a classic white borsch and
trout with almonds. Our most recent visit found a giggling
lady student from Guinea waiting tables, possibly a first for
the city. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (11-80z). TAEXSW
76
RESTAURANTS
77
RESTAURANTS
Stodoa 47 D-2, ul. Floriaska 47, tel. (+48) 12 292
49 25, www.stodola47.pl. A rustic surprise on flashy Flori-
anska street, Stodoa 47 leaves the door open for those who
may not have grown up in a barn, but wouldnt mind eating
in one. Full of farming falderal, haybales, chopped wood and
animal skins, the menu of grilled meats - including roasted
turkey in apricot sauce (20z), rabbit saddle (45z) and wild
boar (64z) - makes the absence of livestock inside Barn 47
seemingly less of a mystery. Polish classics served up with
the usual sides of beet, cabbage and buckwheat. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (12-64z). TAIGS
U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sawkowska 17, tel. (+48) 12
422 76 01, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl. Entering this
hidden cellar through the courtyard of a building on the corner
of Sawkowska and w. Marka streets, youll descend the
stairs and greet a crossword-puzzled babcia who decides if
you can enter this kitschy country cottage of wooden benches
slung with sheep hides. Youll be grateful to have garnered her
approval once youve tried the soups served in breadbowls
and pierogi served on breadplates (really), to make no mention
of the city-famous placki po wgiersku - an enormous plate
of potato pancakes smothered in goulash, cheese and sour
cream. With budget prices for outlandishly large and delicious
servings, this should be a go-to for anyone being introduced
to Polish food...or who hasnt eaten in three days. Also with
a location at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-25z). PTAVEGSW
U Zalipianek B-3, ul. Szewska 24, tel. (+48) 12 422
29 50, www.bary.krakow.pl. Named after a village near
Krakw known for its colourful houses, U Zalipianeks bright,
traditional floral patterns are juxtaposed with the curmud-
geony old-timers occupying the seats. More than likely most
of the conversations revolve around crappy pensions and
the good ol days when everybody had a job. Thus the clients
cheerfully pay 1z for the coat check and another 1z for the
toilet. Still worth a visit for the unique and amusing atmoshere
- especially when the summer terrace is open - the budget
menu consists of all the Polish faves, though theyre unlikely
to have your first choice. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (11-40z).
PTA6GS
Wesele C-3, Rynek Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60,
www.weselerestauracja.pl. If youre a fan of Mid Malina,
and lets face it, who isnt, then its time you visited Wesele, a
project brought to you by the same gang behind MM. If your
Polish is as good as your Chinese then the first thing youll
need to know is what the name means - its wedding, and
the interiors are a dead giveaway, filled with ribbons, flow-
ers and candles. An impressive venue alright, and with all
the clinking glasses and smiley people it doesnt take much
vision to imagine you actually have gate crashed a wedding.
The menu is classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it
was meant, and the goose breast is fabulous. Also recom-
mended by the Michelin Guide 2010. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(16-64z). PTAUEGSW
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place:
according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was at-
tended by five kings and nine princes. Since then its been one
esteemed guest after another, with former diners including
De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influence the
way the globe spins, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau
and Kate Moss. A set of wooden stairs lead to a series of im-
posing rooms decked out with tapestries and plantlife while
a seriously high-end menu includes sturgeon, deer and lamb.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (35-115z). PTAEXSW
W Starej Kuchni C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 8, tel. (+48) 12
428 00 22, www.wstarejkuchni.pl. The angle on this most
recent of Polskie Jado offerings is pieconki: dishes cooked
in the large wood-fired stove in the middle of the restaurant.
Seemingly prepared beforehand, the large-portioned food
goes in and comes out fast with terrific results including po-
tato pancakes, assorted meats, the homemade dumplings
which precede each meal, and even desserts like roasted
apples with caramel and Advocaat. The folk decor is typical
of the brand with emphasis here on antiquated kitchen
knickknacks and utensils recreating a pre-electric village
eatery. Also at ul. Szpitalna 40 (I-2). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(13-49z). PTA6UIGS
Zapiecek Polskie Pierogarnie C-2, ul. Sawkowska
32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.zapiecek.eu. Poland
in a nutshell. Join legions of happy locals tucking into the
legendary pierogi served with no fuss, no formality by an
unsmiling lady from behind a counter. It is a long way from
fine dining but for a quintessential Krakw experience there
are few better places to come. A constant stream of custom-
ers watch on as an older lady pinches the pierogi together
in an old piec (tiled heater) right before your eyes. Q Open
24 hrs. (8-10z). GS
Portuguese
Piri Piri G- 3, ul. Na Boniach 7, tel. (+48) 12 426
02 24, www.piri.krakow.pl. Pi ri Pi ri doesn t exactl y
make a great first impression. Obscurel y l ocated at the
far end of the Bonia, next to a rugby fi el d used to train
dogs, Piri Piri occupi es a large courtyard full of warped
wooden deck furniture with some seriously bad feng shui.
Being that this comes to you from the same team as the
former Brasserie and has to overcome a very challenging
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3ROLVK&XLVLQH
Stodoa 47 Restaurant
Floriaska 47, 31-019 Krakw, tel. 12 292 4925,
rvoigt@interia.pl, www.stodola.pl,
l ocation, youd expect a li ttl e more than a battered beer
garden wi th a strange orange interior attached. Granted,
i t is the onl y Portuguese ki tchen in town and of fers a
respectabl e menu featuri ng fai rl y pri ced entres l i ke
mackerel wi th leeks in creamy sauce (24z), so i t has that
going for i t, authenti c or not (we don t know, we li ve in
Poland). Still, we can t help but think that i f youre going
to put so much energy into going out to eat in Krakw...do
you want to do i t here? QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (11-32z).
TA6UEGSW
Russian
Kalinka C-4, ul. Gertrudy 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 32 57,
www.kuchniarosyjska.com. This colourful, oft-overlooked
restaurant actually oozes authenticity. With festive drapes
and tablecloths, ornate murals, shabby paintings, obligatory
babushka dolls, a scene-spoiling television playing outra-
geous Russian music videos and a few older men nipping
vodka shots as they watch, this is as close to a Russian locals
eatery as youll find anywhere in the East. The food is just as
credible and we challenge anyone to find a better beetroot
soup than their barszcz po kijwsku. Russian, Ukrainian and
Caucasus specialities at bargain prices are prepared by a
Russian classical guitarist whos happy to play if you ask.
Lunch specials, Ukrainian beer, caviar crpes and dried squid
beer snacks round out the hit list of this true original. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (20-46z). TAUGS
Follow POLANDIYP on
September 30, 2010 saw
the grand opening of (gasp!)
a new footbridge in the city.
Not that the ever yones
been crying out for one, the
brand new Father Bernatek
Footbri dge (K adka Oj ca
Bernatka) straddl i ng the
Wisa and linking Kazimierz
with Podgrze in the south of the city occupies a site
between ul. Mostowa and ul. Budziskiego where several
road bridges have stood in its place before, the last
being dismantled way back in 1925. The leaf-shaped,
130m, 700-tonne structure which has been designed
to accommodate both pedestrians and cyclists was
designed by a local company led by the architect Andrzej
Getter, coming in slightly over budget at a sobering 30z
million, a controversial sum for many Krakw dwellers
who believe the money could be spent more wisely
and who also object to the name (the bridge has been
Christened after a certain Laetus Bernatek (1847-1927),
a monk and pharmacist who helped build a hospital in the
city among other philanthropic deeds). Others disagree,
seeing the money well spent as part of the continuing
gentrification of both areas at either end. Among the
other names mooted but discarded were Podgrze
Footbri dge and Charl es Footbri dge, al though l ocal
revellers are already referring to it as the Party Bridge,
a fitting moniker as its presence will among other things
speed up the process of getting from the clutch of bars
and clubs situated at either end.
Father Bernatek Footbridge
Pawel Swiegoda,
pl.wikipedia.org
78
RESTAURANTS
79
RESTAURANTS
Winiowy Sad C-4, ul. Grodzka 33, tel. (+48) 12 430
21 11, www.kuchniarosyjska.com. From the same team
as Kalinka, Winiowy Sad features the same menu of caviar
blini, pelmieni and delicious Russian classics that would rival
that of the villages best babushka. Also on hand is part-time
chef and classical guitarist Yury Beychuk, serenading diners
every Friday and Saturday night at 20:00. This, their primary
location through a Grodzka passageway, features a slightly
more elegant interior of candles and crummy folk paintings,
and you can expect to find some fur on the coatrack. Thor-
oughly authentic and affordable. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10-50z). TA6EGSW
Seafood
Farina C-2, ul. w. Marka 16 (corner of ul. w. Jana),
tel. (+48) 12 422 16 80, www.farina.krakow.pl.
Homemade pastas and great fish dishes have won Farina a
devoted local following and industry accolades. The aromatic,
high-quality Polish and Mediterranean cuisine is matched
by the setting: three bright, breezy rooms decorated in a
comfortable, homey style fitted with unfinished wood. The
best time to visit Farina is between Thursday and Sunday
when the seafood and oysters, imported from Brittany and
Italy, are the most fresh. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (19-99z).
PTA6UIVXSW
Thai
Samui B-3, ul. Wilna 10, tel. (+48) 12 430 02 65,
www.samui.com.pl. No-one would fault you for not being
aware that theres great Thai food in Krakws city centre,
but now that you know, we recommend you do something
about it. With an enormous menu of well over 150 items,
dont miss the delicious soups with Thai herbs and coconut
milk before choosing the meat of your choice (our halibut
was excellent) to add to a range of curries, or stir fries with
di fferent sauces - black pepper, honey, basil, ginger and
chilli among them. There are plenty of vegetarian dishes as
well, and all come with rice and very reasonable price tags.
Rounded off with friendly, knowledgeable service and Asian
dcor that doesnt overdue itself, well be back soon QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (20-35z). PTA6GSW
Shanti K-1, ul. Dekerta 24, tel. (+48) 12 290 03 75,
www.shanti-restauracja.pl. In creating Krakws most
ambitious Thai restaurant, Shantis expert chef - fresh off
spending ten years at the helm of Warsaws Marriott restau-
rant - has brought a bit of capital flavour and style to this very
obscure corner of Podgrze. Off the beaten path is putting it
mildly, but Shanti certainly merits the 12z cab ride from the
city centre. Enjoy the likes of dim sum, Thai fish cakes, pad
Thai and a variety of meat, fish and veggie dishes - all expertly
prepared, delicious and exceedingly affordable. The modern,
casual interior - featuring lots of Asian lettering and an enor-
mous gold Buddha behind the bar - twins as a stylish cocktail
bar serving exotic concoctions made with fresh fruit juices and
yogurt, poising Shanti to become a staple of both the culinary
and nightlife scene despite the risky location. Recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (17-50z). PTAUVEGSW
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiski C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48)
12 421 92 94 ext. 25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran
restaurant has survived the test of time and continues
to serve up consistently decent, stodgy food - shashlyks,
steaks, pork, pierogi, potatoes and borscht - at suitably
Ukranian bargain prices. Small children running amok all
over the gorgeous courtyard garden further adds to the
authenticity, but may have you heading to their folksy cellar
where pleasant peasant-dressed staff keep the bottles of
underappreciated Ukrainian beer coming to your table. Try
all ten varieties and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl victim.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (10-41z). TAGSW
Vegetarian
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62
02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best caf south of ul. Jzefa
since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a classic Ka-
zimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and square-side
summer seating, Mynek also serves a smattering of yummy
vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread, quiches and
a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho, but served
hot). They now also offer Ayurvedic cuisine courtesy of a
chef from Sri-Lanka as well as Sunday breakfast complete
with live classical music between 10:00 and 12:00. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. (15-23z). PTA6EGSW
Glonojad (Algae-eater) D-2, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 346 16 77, www.glonojad.com. Were the first to ap-
plaud the opening of any vegetarian restaurant in PL, and
while Glonojads concise, eastern-inspired menu - featuring
curry, samosas, burritos and daily specials - is a refreshing
alternative to your typical Polish cafeteria, the fact that the
aforementioned mains hit rather low on the flavour scale
and are served with two sides of standard slaw/salad in
an uninspired interior means the end result isnt that far off
from being a sort of veggie milk bar; albeit one with beer and
wine, wifi and even a computer to use. Fast, filling, healthy
and a great value for your money, Glonojad is sure to be
popular with students sick of greasy cutlets, but will sadly
leave those with an appetite for more creative veggie fare
unsatiated. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
(8-15z). TAR6GSW
Green Way C-3, ul. Mikoajska 14, tel. (+48) 12 431
10 27, www.greenway.pl. Despite the somewhat soul-
less corporate packaging, this is an excellent vegetarian
effort well-favoured by students and travellers. Serving pita
sandwiches, samosas, crepes, quiche, curry, enchilladas,
some delicious spinach dumplings as well as daily specials,
the prices are fair and affordable, though the ambiance
leaves a bit to be desired. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (7-21z). P6GSW
Momo D-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. A
cheap and cheerful vegan restaurant (Krakws only) churn-
ing out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a
good choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and
even kimchee. Popular with left-leaning schoolteachers, the
wacky backpacker set and people that refuse to stop smil-
ing, Momos prices remain ludicrously cheap and the food
is both healthy and worth coming back for. Try the excellent
spicey sambar soup and dont forget to smother your food
with their coveted peanut sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00.
(10-17z). T6UGS
Vega D-4, ul. w. Gertrudy 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 34
94, www.vegarestauracja.com.pl. A great alternative
to Polish meat and starch menus; though the prices have
gone up (get used to it, people), the food remains some of
the best vegetarian fare in the city and therefore a bargain.
A comfortable, slightly feminine interior is characterised by
strange astrological paintings and eclectic music that keeps
bordering on new age, but wont stay put. All around excellent
whether youre a rabbit or not, with the biggest stand-out
being the salad bar. Also on ul. Krupnicza 22 (A-2). QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. (9-16z). TA6UVGS
A lot has changed over years since communism got knee-
capped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destination as
popular as Krakw hardly seems any more alien or adventur-
ous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or Venice. And while
many of the old ways of the old days have disappeared or
become slightly disneyfied, one relic remains steadfastly un-
Western: the Polish milk bar. These steamy cafeterias serving
traditional cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners
and students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland
and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a gas
station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few coins
you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit an extremely
well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to the milk bar (bar
mleczny in Polish) is a required cultural experience for anyone
who has just set foot in the country.
As in so many things, Krakw has the distinction of being the
birthplace of the bar mleczny. Polands first milk bar was actu-
ally opened on Krakws market square on May 30th 1948
in the townhouse now occupied by the upstanding Szara res-
taurant. Named Pod Bak (Under the Milk Churn), originally
no hot dishes were served; this was a place where you went
simply to enjoy milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25
litre glass with a straw (so classy). Run by the government,
this was the new partys clever attempt at popularising
milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by Polands
large surplus of dairy products. As restaurants were nation-
alised and then shut down by PLs communist authorities,
more and more milk bars appeared across the country and
began offering cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses and
especially workers; quite often meals at the local milk bar
were included in a workers salary. By the mid-60s milk bars
were widely prevalent across Poland as the party concept
was to provide cheap, fast food to everyone (as cheerlessly
as possible apparently). In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage
cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered
omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods
like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism
that many bar mleczny resorted to chaining the cutlery to
the table to deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning
youll still notice today that most milk bars use disposable
dishes and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic
cups with a spoon - those spice cellars were stolen in the
late 50s. Similarly, the orders are still taken by blue-haired,
blue-veined, all-business babcias - usually wearing an apron
over their nightgown and slippers - and the food is as inspired
as ever, the only difference being meat isnt rationed anymore
in modern PL. Indeed, todays milk bars evoke a timelessness
to be savoured just as the milk soup with noodles served
to schoolchildren in PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse
of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however,
fortunately for us all, many of these feed museums were
saved and continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through
state subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall
off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. Below
are a few of our favourites in the city centre:
Bar Grnik A-2, ul. Czysta 1, tel. (+48) 12 632
68 99. The editorial fave. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (4-8z). GS
Bar Targowy J-3, ul. Daszyskiego 19, tel. (+48) 12
421 14 37, www.bary.krakow.pl. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00,
Sat 07:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. (3-10z). GS
Pod Temid C- 4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12
422 08 74. The easiest to find: look for the blue and
white Bar Mleczny sign. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. (7-
14z). UGS
Milk Bars
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I
t took fve seconds to transform Po-
land from a country bustling with
confdence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraf carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its lef wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof frst into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
whos who of the Polish elite.
Te head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
Te irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalins henchman
slaughtered Polands best, was not lost.
Te Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there, said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another
former president, described Katyn as a
cursed place, and of horrible symbolism.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the most tragic event in Polands
post-war history thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
A small patch of fowers and candles
lef by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
diferences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two
minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. Te silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Pol-
ish nation stood to attention and refected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
Te parents of the pilot in charge of fying
the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
Te tragic death of the head of the
National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturdays plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will afect monetary
policy and other issues.
Te succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
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Issue 15 ()
Warsaws Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nations grief
80
81
CAFS CAFS
Kolanko N6 E- 6, ul. Jzefa 17, tel. (+48) 12 292
03 20, www.kolanko.net. One of Kazi mi erzs most
underappreci ated venues, Kol anko has pl enty goi ng
for i t. The mai n attracti on may be the l arge summer
garden wi th pl enty of shade, sun and greenery, but the
onset of winter can t take anything away from the cheap
menu of soups, salads and creati vel y-stuf fed sweet and
savoury crepes whi ch have become ensconced in l ocal
l egend; nor the deli cious and too-often overl ooked l ocal
amber and dark beers on draft. Quirky atti c kni cknacks
combined wi th kl ezmer and worl d musi c sel ections gi ve
Kolanko 6 an escapist atmosphere well -appreciated by
coupl es, laptoppers and l oners like oursel ves. Recom-
mended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
TA6UIGSW
Lodziarnia C- 4, ul. Grodzka 13, tel. (+48) 668 42
06 86. Wonder ful. What l ooks on fi rst take like your
standard Sunday i ce cream parl our hi des a huge secret
upstairs. No, not the steady stream of pretty girls who
spoon their sweets here; rather the enormous chil drens
playground. Heaven sent for parents tired of dragging the
kids from museum to museum, here you can si t and have
a coffee, cocktail or ice cream whil e the young tykes play
until their hearts content in a very safe environment. An
expanded menu of pastas and salads now means i ts
even possi bl e to forget to call the babysi tter and still
enj oy a rel axi ng di nner date. Hurray. QOpen 09:30 -
24:00. TA6GSW
Main Square B- 3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48)
12 423 12 41, www.mainsquare.pl. An impressi ve
location not just offering a cup of tea or coffee but also
breakfast, l unch and al cohol. Found i n the Pal ac Pod
Baranami in the corner of the square, next to the legend-
ary cinema of the same name, their attractive 19zl lunch
of fer i s one to watch out for. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
PTA6VGSW
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. A true labour
of love, filled with dusty shelves groaning under the weight
of thousands of titles with broken spines. This is not just
the best English language bookshop youll ever find in East-
ern Europe, but also an atmospheric caf where budding
playwrights convene for muted whisperings and American
cookies, bagels, pies, the best drip coffee in town, and now
wine thanks to the recent opening of a comfy wine room.
Ground zero for ex-pats, the bulletin board is an important
community rallying point. A requisite pilgrimage point for
foreigners; dont miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 21:00. A6GSW
Nowa Prowincja (The New Province) C- 3, ul.
Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 693 77 00 79, www.nowaprow-
incja.krakow.pl. An ideal respite and rendezvous location,
we have to give the nod to Nowa Prowincja over its next
door sister cafe (Prowincja), if only for being the roomier of
the two. A sparing wooden interior, this stellar coffee bar is
primarily furnished with chatting friends enjoying delicious
coffee and maybe the best hot chocolate in town - so thick
you need a spoon. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
6GSW
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
47 71, www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this
local classic inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the history
which reflects the li fe and times of Krakow during the last
century or so. Opened as a family enterprise in 1910, this
place has witnessed and suffered directly from the rise
and fall of the 20th centurys extreme political systems.
Famous as the place where Comrade Lenin would come
and read the papers before going on to achieve greater
things, WWII occupation later saw Noworolski become the
top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the business was taken
away from the family by the communist authorities before
being returned in 1991. Things have changed little in terms
of style and service since then, making Noworolski a bit of
a creaky throwback favoured today by well-dressed locals
in the autumn of their years, but the exquisite art nouveau
interiors are among the most decadent in town and well
worth a look. Youll find cheaper and better coffee in the city
but it wont be served to such an atmospheric backdrop.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AXSW
Opera Cafe Pub Restaurant C-2, ul. w. Jana
10, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 01. Gall ons of purpl e and
futuristi c glass booths upstairs make Opera something
of a refreshing al ternati ve to the tri ed and tested dcor
formulas hereabouts in what currently exists as predomi-
nantl y a cocktail bar but that aims to expand i ts ki tchen
over the comi ng months. The staf f are tremendousl y
fri endl y to the point that theyll gi ve you directi ons to
another bar even i f you don t buy a drink. Now thats
servi ce. The musi c is cool and laid-back, something that
compliments the equall y sophisti cated room at the back
compl ete wi th a rather astonishing chandeli er. As well
as an impressi ve array of cocktails, the current food op-
tions are limi ted to light snacks, but dont let that put you
of f. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
PA6XSW
Pierwszy Lokal... C-3, ul. Stolarska 6/1, tel. (+48)
12 431 24 41. Known for its labourious, unmemorisable
name - and as one of the only places in the centre where
you can enjoy local delicious Dragons Head beer (amber
or porter) - this long-standing favourite blends seemlessly
into a bar in the evenings. With eclectic music and a relaxed
atmosphere, Piewszy Lokal is a great place to meet friends,
relaxing on the leather sofas or chatting around the candlelit
tables. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00
- 24:00. P6XSW
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedla C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 429 40 85, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A superb
collection of confectionary supplied courtesy of Wedel, Po-
lands best-loved brand. Find chocolates, cakes and pralines
of every description, every bit as delightful as the aproned
girls that serve them. Interiors are worthy of this kingdom
of temptation and include a vaulted glass ceiling and black
and white pictures of Wedels founding fathers. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. PAUGS
Siesta C-3, ul. Stolarska 6, tel. (+48) 12 431 14
88. A charmi ng veteran cafe j ust of f Ma y Rynek on
Embassy Row, Siesta is a great place to rest the feet
between strolls of the Old Town. Moderately decorated
with framed pictures and adobe colours, Siesta attracts
groups of all ages and pursuits, thanks in part to its long-
standing as one of the few establishments of its kind to
not have been shrouded in suffocating smoke before the
ban came in. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:30 - 24:00. GS
Sodki Wentzl C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12
429 57 12, www.slodkiwentzl.pl. Allegedly the best ice
cream in the city, and weve found no reason to dispute the
claim. With a revitalised interior, this caf proves that the
Rynek is far more than just a case of dodging tourist traps.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6UGSW
Krakw is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals
that of celebrated western capitals like Paris, perhaps
even outmatching them pound for pound. The Kazimierz
district is particularly known for its atmospheric cafes,
filled with candlelight, antiques and Old World mystique.
Most Krakowi an cafes al so ser ve beer and the l i ne
between cafe and bar can be a blurry one. The venues
weve listed here tend to favour coffee and cakes and
when most cafe/bar establishments are turning up the
music for their til last guest clientele, these are more
often closing their doors.
Cafe Botanica C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 12 422
89 80, www.cafebotanica.pl. This one has it all from beer
and cocktails to coffee and chocolate; breakfast platters
to toasted sandwiches, salads and wraps. As the name
implies, Botanica is full of plants and a recent expansion
includes even more seating in a glorious upstairs glass-
ceilinged orangery. Ladies love it, making this an ideal
venue place venue for a cheap casual lunch date, though
the playlist of Jack Johnson and Macy Gray may make the
skin crawl of anyone who didnt come to Krakw to relax in
what feels a bit like an American liberal arts college cafe.
QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. PA6UXS
Cafe Gobia 3 B-3, ul. Gobia 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 24
19, www.cafegolebia3.com. Positioned just well-enough
to avoid the brunt of tourist traffic, this little bohemian cafe
in the Old Town is full of all the things necessary to be quint-
essentially Cracovian: oddball clutter and artwork, wobbly
tables, beer-drinking students, coffee-slurping laptoppers
and paper-perusing academics. The site of frequent photo
exhibitions, drop in for a drink, scribble some verse down
on a beermat and drop it in the blue postal box out front to
participate in a long local tradition: the Poetry Gutter. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 6UGSW
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430
62 02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best cafe south of ulica
Jzefa (sorry Rkawka), Cafe Mynek is a great escape from
the bustle and buggery of Plac Nowy - particularly when the
sunny outdoor seating on Plac Wolnica is open - while still
retaining everything we love about Kazimierz. The artsy
atmosphere includes an adjoining gallery and occasional
live concerts. Mynek is also one of only a half dozen estab-
lishments in Krakw serving strictly vegan eats, including
homemade humus. Recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PTA6ESW
Cafe Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Changing its name
from RossAmores, the interior of Cafe Wierzynek hasnt
changed much, still compromised by the loud pink floral
patterns and fabrics on the furnishings - even the tabletops
have enormous cherubs and orchids on them. Shame really,
because it makes an otherwise appealing space look a bit
like a buffoonish birthday cake. What has changed is the
menu, full of hot soups, healthy salads, breakfast choices,
naughty desserts and pricey coffee drinks. By the same team
behind Wierzynek, Krakws oldest restaurant, there are
plenty of hearty meat, fish and pasta entrees in the cafe for
those who cant pony up for the restaurant proper. QOpen
09:30 - 23:00. PTAUXSW
Camelot C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421
01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collec-
tion of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors
pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local
stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no less
than a city institution. An extensive menu features all-day
breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm lo-
cal liquors, and the elevated seat in the window may be the
most romantic spot in town. Check out the upstairs gallery,
or descend to the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience
the delightfully strange, often a tad corny, always endearing
Loch Camelot cabaret. Recommended all around. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. T6IGS
Camera Cafe B-3, ul. Wilna 5, tel. (+48) 601 19 03
81. Framed film stars overlook modern starlets stirring their
chocolates while silent films play in the background of this
curvy, creamy cafe/bar. Marrying movies and chocolate,
Camera Cafe offers a wide range of chocolate cocktails - and
were not talking about powdered cocoa, here; more like
spoonable pudding. A number of other sweet indulgences
are on hand, as well as good breakfast options and a few
other savories. Great for impressing mum in the afternoon
or a date in the evening. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. PAGS
Cheder E-6, ul. Jzefa 36 (entrance from ul. Jakuba),
tel. (+48) 12 431 15 17, www.cheder.pl. Opened by
the Jewish Culture Festival Association in a former prayer
house, Cheder continues Kazimierzs obsession with its past,
serving as a Jewish cultural centre and cafe. A large open
space with wooden furnishings, Cheder hosts lectures, film
screenings, concerts and other events promoting Judaism;
however its most impressive resource is the in-house library
of Jewish-related books, many of which are in English. What-
ever your relationship with Israel, this quiet, non-smoking,
wifi-enabled cafe is undeniably one of the best places to work
or study in town, with a delicious cup of Isreali coffee served
in a traditional finjan to guide you. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
TA6GSW
Chocoffee B-3, ul. Wilna 8, tel. (+48) 502 36 83
84, www.krakow.chocoffee.com. In a city renowned
for its cafe culture, its rare for a new cafe to vault itsel f
towards the top of pile immediately upon opening, but
thats exactly what Chocoffee has done(hardly a surprise
i f youve been to their excellent Wrocaw location). Hal f
chocol ate shop, hal f cof feehouse, here youl l fi nd an
assortment of to-die-for filled chocolates, pralines and
truf fl es, but i ts the cof fee concocti ons that keep us
coming back. Try a tantalising array of aromatic spiced
coffee-chocolate compositions and other liquid aphrodisi-
acs, hot or cold, to go or to stay in the stylish smoke-free
interior piped with chill-out music. Recommended. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. PTAGSW
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 429
34 93, www.europejska.pl. An elaborately elegant atmo-
sphere prevails inside this classically decorated local legend.
Gramophones, suitcases and other ephemera tastefully
clutter this classy upscale venue. Flawless bartenders are
there to guide your way through the impressive list of tortes
and beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PTASW
Jama Michalika D-2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12
422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Not so much a caf
as a lesson in local history. Established in 1895, it was here
that the Moda Polska movement was founded, with many of
the leading artists of the day choosing to take their libations
inside this grand looking venue. Decorated with stained glass
and artwork from the fin-de-siecle era this caf serves as
a favoured stamping ground for elder tourists in colourful
clothes, though the poker-faced nature of the staff limits
the appeal of return visits. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 23:00. PTAUIEXSW
82
NIGHTLIFE
83
NIGHTLIFE
Bars & Pubs
Awaria D-3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel. (+48) 12 292 03 50,
www.klubawaria.com. This small dodgy, dive bar is known
for its live rock and blues concerts (Thursday-Sunday), patient
barmaids and plastered, hard-livin local clientele who are never
too shy to buy a sober stranger a drink. Steamy and frightfully
claustrophobic, Awaria features a narrow underground corridor
leading to the long wooden bar which, with no room to pass on
the other side, is one of the most poorly designed spaces weve
ever seen. Pass it you must if you want to see the band in the
next room, where youll encounter the hazards of drunks spilling
or stealing your drink as tables topple over and someone rocks
out on the harmonica. The fact that theres barely enough room
to sit in front of the bar might explain why people are dancing on
top of it to the Tina Turner and Elvis classics on rotation after
the band blows off. Legendary. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
15:00 - 04:00. AEGW
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06,
www.baroque.com.pl. Over several rooms of plush seating,
high fashion photographs, dangling chandeliers and a spacious
garden during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a sharp
and modern space that mixes in the new with the old. It looks
attractive enough, but theres one reason alone to be visiting,
namely a range of cocktails that many argue are the best in
the city. Choose from knock-out creations like the Polski Spring
Punch or get your head down and do your best to rip through
their choice of over 100 vodkas. Mojitos seem to be the most
fashionable drink in Krakw these days, and while their mixology
is no longer a secret science, Baroques still look the best and
come in positively huge portions. And expect to find a new bar
and dancefloor opening in the cellar from February. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2/1, tel. (+48) 782 60
29 99. In almost no time at all, this small bar has managed
to establish itsel f as a cult hangout thanks to a simple
concept few places follow anymore: good music and good
people equals good times. Unpretentious with an interior of
unfinished wood, brick walls and a small upstairs balcony
level with a great view of Plac Szczepaski, the solid gold
playlist rotates funk and soul, Led Zep, Prince, the Beastie
Boys and MJ. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. EGW
Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel.
(+48) 12 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.pl. To get the
most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when adjoining
courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco dance arena.
On those chillier evenings make for the warmly lit crimson
interior which comes illuminated by hundreds of flickering
candles, while drinkers down potent concoctions under the
conceited gaze of gold buddhas. Check out the unique mez-
zanine level for something a little different, while couples
suffering a lull in their relationship should choose a cosy nook
and study the wall paintings of randy Indian figures entwined
in Kama Sutra embraces. A recently opened extension is a
reflection of the places popularity. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PAUX
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikoajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68.
What the Great British Pub once looked like before the brewing
industry was mugged by alcopops, Wetherspoons and silly
smoking laws. Squint and you could be in the Rovers Return,
what with all the glass sconces, booth seating and pictures of
fox hunting toffs. The Brit associations and centre stage loca-
tion mean a fair chance of running into groups of lads freshly
dispatched from an EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair
atmosphere which would otherwise be ideal for an after-work
beer and maybe a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. AW
I f you bel i eve urban l egend Krakw has the hi gh-
est densi t y of bars i n the worl d. Si mpl y hundreds
of bars can be found i n cel l ars and cour t yards
stretchi ng from the Ol d Town to Kazi mi erz. Whi l e
we have great fun i n tr yi ng them out, i t woul d
be i mpracti cal to tr y to l i st them al l here. So we
have pi cked out pl aces of note and a few to warn
you of f whi l e gi vi ng you some recommendati ons
bel ow. The ni ghtl i fe scene i s a constantl y changi ng
beast but youl l general l y fi nd the more upmarket
and shi ni er pl aces i n and around the ol d market
square, whi l e a tri p down to Kazi mi erz wi l l see
the atmosphere and the surroundi ngs become a
l ot more rel axed.
With more tourism, prices are climbing and you can
expect to pay around 7 to 10z for a large beer in most
bars. The opening hours we list are flexible and an es-
timation given to us by the bars and clubs on when you
can expect to find them open. With no set closing time
you can basically expect that if people are drinking, the
barman is pouring.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
youre looking for.
Elite
Those who want a touch of cl ass wi l l fi nd them-
sel ves at home i n Stalowe Magnolia - an i mpres-
si vel y dressed musi c venue wi th premi um dri nks,
or vi si t Paparazzi and Baroque to engage i n the
best cocktai l s i n Krakw debate. Baccarat and
One Lounge are the best- dressed new ki ds on
the bl ock, whi l e Taawa gi ves a more professi onal
pul se to Kazi mi erz.
Students
Not your most discriminating demographic, students will
go anywhere theres fun music and cheap drinks - namely
Bdne Koo, Gorczka or ubu- Dubu (Wielopole
15), while those with intent to impress head to Rdza,
Frantic and Cien.
Lads
Pod Papugami - where matches are on and the
staf f are used to boi sterous behavi our - wel come
stag groups, as does Prozak, a supremel y naff meat
market popular wi th l ocal girls who like forei gn boys.
For a huge sel ecti on of Pol i sh and forei gn beers
head to Beer Gallery - they have over 150. For the
most acti on per square metre head to Wielopole
15. Al ternati vel y, keep i t ci vi l i sed i nsi de Irish Pub
Nic Nowego.
Couples
Couples looking for some face time should snuggle in a
cosy corner of wita Krowa, hide out inside a cabinet
in Caf Szafe, soak up the karma sutra ambience of
Buddha Bar, converse by candlelight in Mleczarnia or
stay home and listen to Barry White.
Hipsters
Take your tight pants and non-prescription specs to
Miejsce, your unfinished novel to Dym, your photog-
raphy portfolio to Pauza and your self-destructive side
to Pikny Pies.
Nightlife at a Glance
Bunkier (Bunker) B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel.
(+48) 12 431 05 85, www.alchemia.com.pl. At-
tached to Krakws best contemporary art gallery, this
encl osed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembl es a
spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been re-
placed with couples, happy hour colleagues and English
teachers gi ving pri vate l essons around wobbl y tabl es
and chairs. A year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of
heaters), Bunkiers inviting atmosphere is marred only by
the slow to completely negligible table service that cant
be circumnavigated. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. AXW
Cafe Szafe A-4, ul. Felicjanek 10, tel. (+48) 663 90
56 52, www.cafeszafe.com. Owned by two amiable art-
ists, Cafe Szafe has a warm, inviting atmosphere unique to
most Krakw bars - a trait which has endeared it to locals
and expats alike. With a secluded back room that frequently
hosts concerts, film and photography exhibitions, Szafe
gracefully accommodates barflies and event attendees
simultaneously. Red stencilled walls and enormous blue
cupboards and wardrobes - some of which can be sat in -
adorned with strange organic sculptures of birds and other
creatures furnish this long-time favourite. Recommended.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. EXW
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12
429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and
bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which
is made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily
self-proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of
smoke. How many advances and grants have been blown
here its hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and
youre guaranteed to become a character in at least two
unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back
then; back before all our ambition and drive went into drink,
we went broke and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory
days. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PGW
English Football Club D-3, ul. Mikoajska 5, tel. (+48)
12 421 01 49, www.efckrakow.pl. Apparently the number
of punters coming to town demanded it. Quite literally wall-
to-wall football with team shirts hanging off every available
space, three lions on the floor and Sky Sports beaming
down their banal brand of hype and hyperbole. This is noth-
ing less than stag heaven, and as such expect weekends
to be awash with Brit lads bowling around bragging about
last nights prostitute. Real men will take advantage of the
tables out back that come fitted with their own private beer
taps, though they sadly ruined one of the centres best
courtyards, formerly of Klub Re. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat
10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PXW
Hard Rock Caf C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sit back enjoying your cock-
tail or beer overlooking the square and the Cloth Hall from
Hard Rocks split level glass bar. The chaps here know how to
make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all
you need after a day facing stern museum curators. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PAUGW
House Of Beer D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance ul.
Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, www.houseofbeer-
krakow.com. House of Beer may be the best of the bars
improving the beer culture of Polands drinking capital, with
over 150 bottles and eight draught beers on hand in this
high ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas. Bottles can be a bit pricey, but the local Dragon
(Smok) on draft for 8z is a steal. QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. PXW
Theres a number of ways to survive winter in Poland,
and weve tried them all; from dressing up like Eskimos
to sitting at home in our pants. Of all the methods
none however rewards as much as headi ng down
the pub. Its in these noble establishments youll find
the answer to the ice age, namely a pint of grzane
piwo thats hot beer to you and me. Now it might
sound rancid but give it a try. Youll get a frothing beer
served piping hot wi th a choice of various flavour-
ings cloves, cinnamon, honey, ginger and an array
of fruit juices. Grzane wino mulled wine is equally
popular at this time of year and is particularly decent
when using a dry red.
Coupl e of thi ngs a veteran will keep their eye out
for; firstly, the distant ping of a microwave is usually
a giveaway that they dont know what theyre doing
behind the scenes. You most certainl y don t want
your drink fried. Secondly, ask for a mug, not a glass.
Drinks lose their temperature fast so its always best
to have a mug, preferably a sturdy clay chap. Thirdly,
and a gentle prod to any simpletons, remember your
drink is going to be scorching hot when i t arri ves.
Gulping it down in one is going to seriously hurt. And
remember, i f youre trying this at home, never let the
drink hit boiling point. Thats disaster. I f youre too
scared to get creative yoursel f then youll find ready-
to-heat mulled wine on sale in off-licenses - look for
Grzaniec Galicyjski.
Hot Beer
Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13),
tel. (+48) 12 617 02 50, www.vinoteka13.pl. This
tasteful bar marries the posh delikatessen and wine shop
it lies between offering tortes and paninis, as well as wine
by the glass. Located in Krakws nicest shopping mall,
drinking wine under a stairwell has never been this classy
and makes for a welcome break from being teased by the
3000z shoes for sale nearby. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PAUGW
Wine Garage H-1, ul. Jzefitw 8, tel. (+48) 606
74 55 47, www.biowina.pl. A unique wine bar/shop
dedicated to organic, biodynamic and Free Trade wines
coming from monasteries and independent vintners
across Europe. Those with a burgundy nose will im-
mediately recognise it as one of the most exceptional
collections theyve seen and the modern interior and
bar provide no reason not to uncork one at once. An
obscure location, but definitely worth seeking out, a new
city-centre venue was promised at the time of going to
press. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PAGW
Winiarnia Klimaty Poudnia C-4, ul. w. Gertrudy
5, tel. (+48) 12 422 03 57, www.klimatypoludnia.
pl. A simple interior designed to mimic a sunny Mediter-
ranean farmhouse comes with all the requisite flagstones
and timber beams, while the menu breezes through
numerous sweet and savoury French offerings. The food
menu is small and concise, the wine list is anything but,
and definitely worth perusal. Find this highly likable wine
house in a courtyard across from the Planty. QOpen
13:00 - 24:00. AUIEXW
Wine Bars
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Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. (+48) 12 431
02 21, www.irishmbassy.com. Cheekily stationed in
the midst of Krakws embassy row, the massive Irish
MBassy is a popular place for weekenders and expats to
get their passports punched and forget where they are.
Numerous TV screens beam down live sports over three
stories of original brick and gothic details, punctuated by
sponsorship signage, sports and Irish memorabilia. Abso-
lute madness during matches, the doe-eyed staff do well
to keep track of the orders fired at them, while a decent
line of pub grub - burgers and baguettes - makes this a
one stop solution for a long night. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
PAEGW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego (Nothing New) D- 3, ul.
w. Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 61 88, www.
nicnowego.com. Similar to a cosmopoli tan Dublin Bar,
the Irish-owned Ni c Nowego continues to serve as the
expat communi tys primary source of hangovers. Black-
clad candi dates for Miss Polska serve up a wi cked array
of drinks from behind a sl eek metalli c bar, including the
best Guinness in Poland, while Sky Sports keeps a largely
forei gn audi ence capti vated. And the food goes beyond
the quali ty youd expect to find in a bar thanks to the
owner Tom being a chef by trade. Handy serving hours
mean food is availabl e as l ong as they are open, some-
thing whi ch has saved our bacon once or twi ce. QOpen
07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun
09:00 - 02:00. TA6UGSW
Katedra C- 4, ul. Poselska 9, tel. (+48) 12 294 88 60,
www.katedra.krakow.pl. Practically unobtainable for a
very long time indeed, beers from small Polish breweries
have finally arrived in Krakw, and Katedra offers at least
40 di fferent labels from around the country. A slightl y
creepy interior based on the legendary Polish fantasy film
of the same name features planetary murals and crawling
vines painted on the walls, while behind the bar youll find
several games which youre encouraged to play as you
get slowly sozzled. Though sounding a tad adolescent,
the atmosphere is laid back and Katedra remains a good
option for a delicious, civilised drink with friends. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. PUGW
Klub Re D-3, ul. w. Krzya 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 08 81,
www.klubre.pl. Your standard Krakowian cellar bar in most
respects, Re is a stand-out for bringing touring international
acts to Krakw. Indeed, some of the citys most exciting and
memorable concerts happen at this small venue, including
contemporary indy bands from home and abroad. Check the
(Polish-only) website for information on future events. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. EXW
Non Iron D-3, ul. w. Marka 27, tel. (+48) 12 429 41
98, www.non-iron.pl. A small, dingy, obscure locals bar,
theres one reason and one reason only why you should visit
Non Iron. Not the atmosphere, company, music or design,
but for cheap, delicious beer. Here youll find a varying array
of Czech and local microbrews, often including dark and
amber ales from Krakws Smocza Gowa brewery (13z/
litre), Kozel and Primator, all served on draft in beauti ful
beer steins. Touting itself as a sports bar, there is indeed a
tele streaming snooker, footie, rugby or some other match
of maximum irrelevance, but the old timers snorting beer
foam at the bar would hardly notice. If youve been boozing
in PL long enough, you may find yourself sympathising with
them on an uncrowded afternoon when a beer here with your
back to the boob-box becomes the most rewarding moment
of your week. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. GW
Ol dsmobil Pub D- 3, ul. w. Tomasza 31, tel.
(+48) 12 425 40 00. Two secti ons; a tradi ti onal
wooden bar area i n the fi rst, compl ete wi th a smal l
screen to watch any spor ts acti on, and booth seati ng
i n the si de room. A car theme prevai l s throughout wi th
sepi a pi ctures of vi ntage cars fi l l i ng the ochre col oured
wal l s. Prop up the bar wi th the l ocal s whi l e staf f fi x
cocktai l s l i ke Sex i n a car, or enj oy the l argest sel ec-
ti on of whi ski es i n town. QOpen 12: 00 - 03: 00, Sat,
Sun 16: 00 - 03: 00. X
One Lounge C- 3, ul. Rynek G wny 42 (Pa ac
Bonerowski Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 13 52, www.
milanokrakow.pl. This narrow l ounge bar in one of the
Ryneks most coveted l ocal es seems to be l ooking down
i ts nose at everyone else. Set in an earl y 16th century
palace, One Lounge has gone minimal modern wi th an
interior of whi te walls and whi te l eather l oveseats wi th
skinny glass tabl es. Whil e i ts all qui te comfortabl e and
features li ve musi c from 20:30-mi dni ght on Thurs, Fri
and Sat, i t al so does an i mpressi ve j ob of renderi ng
one of Krakws most stori ed buil dings utterl y soull ess.
Fortunatel y in summer you can escape to seating ri ght
on the market square, but theres no lack of that nearby.
I f you want to pay the hi ghest pri ces on the Rynek, mi ght
as well do i t in the Ryneks most pretentious interior.
Against the whi te backdrop everyones sure to comment
on how much your spending power stands out. Bravo.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAEXW
Paparazzi D-3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
45 97, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Krakw cocktail culture
started here. A long, narrow space plastered with candid
pics of celebs practicing their pout, Paparazzis cocktail list
is second to none and this remains first choice for anyone
looking to clinch deals over invigorating concoctions fixed
by a team of specialists. Two TVs playing sports and Mur-
phys on tap add to the overall appeal of this celebration of
celebrity. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
PAXW
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriaska 18/3, tel. (+48) 12 422
48 66, www.pauza.pl. One of the trendi est drinking
dens in the Ol d Town, head to this unmarked first fl oor
bar to feel like youre in the know. Full of stylish haircuts
and sexy dresses, Pauza twins as a photography gall ery
wi th per fectl y illuminated hi gh-quali ty exhi bi tions, mak-
i ng the hipsters feel j usti fiabl y art-smart. Furnishi ngs
are modern wi th l ow l oveseats and stool s and some
enviabl e tabl es in the windows overl ooking Fl oriaska.
Despi te an atrocious queue for the toil et and typi call y
trendy house musi c, thi s i s one of the best hangout
spots in the Ol d Town. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. IXW
Pikny Pies C-2, ul. Sawkowska 6a, www.piekny-
pies.pl. Such was the outcry when this cult venue was
forced to change locations a few years back that many
responded as i f they had lost their favourite drinking buddy
to an untimely overdose. Well, hes back and his tolerance
is stronger than ever. Full of the same unwashed artists
and Dylan Thomas impersonators on the muralled ground
floor, Pikny Pies 2.0 draws a fair number of students to
its downstairs dancefloor where DJs play party hits on
weekends, in addition to occassional live acts. Essentially
by drunks, for drunks, you can disregard the listed hours:
this place never closes and continues to be the best choice
in the Old Town for a late night, but not a nightclub. Slop
factor: 5 out of 5. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
04:00. PUEX
After a dozen or so hangovers and extra trips to the shop
for toilet paper, Polish beer despite making a favourable
first impression for whatever reason generally leaves
one understanding why vodka is so popular in Poland.
Walk into any bar in Krakw and youll likely find one of
the following national brews available: ywiec, Tyskie,
Lech or Okocim; line em up, blindfold yourself and we
doubt your palate can tell the difference between them.
Locals will argue that since international buyouts (which
explains the prevalence of similarly uninspiring foreign
brands like Heineken and Carlsberg) the quality of some
of these brands has declined, but thats beside the point.
Basically drinking ywiec and Tyskie gets really boring
really fast for anyone with a real affinity for beer. What
too often goes unrealised is that similar to the US which
also gets a bad rep for its big market national beers
Poland has many independent regional microbreweries
that produce delicious beer. Though almost impossible
to find in any shops or bars as recently as a year ago,
this trend seems to be happily changing and there are
now several bars in Krakw where you can enjoy local
brews that dont taste like filtered horse urine.
In and around the Old Town,Pierwszy Lokal(see Cafes)
serves delicious Smocza Gowa (Dragons Head) dark
and amber ales on draft, while Non Iron offers the
same (when available) on top of its exciting assortment
of Czech and regional microbrews. Though Krakw
does have its own microbrewery in CK Browar, the
virtue of the beer is entirely undermined by the horrible
atmosphere created by the thuggish clientele; true beer
connoisseurs will instead make a visit to cosy Kat-
edra,which offers halfway to a hundred bottled Polish
microbrews, or newcomerHouse of Beerwhich claims
to offer three times that many.
In Kazimierz, our favourite place has to be the charming
and chirpy Beer Gallery whose 150+beers are a delight
and will keep you busy for weeks trying to decide the
best. Then theres Smocza Jama, whose cooler houses
a fine selection of hard-to-find ales you can help yourself
to and features Fortuna brews on draught. In Kolanko
6 (see cafes) youll find Smocza Jama on draft; Szynk
similarly offers a dark and amber local draft as well as
bottled Kozlak and the Ciechan microbrews you may have
had a chance to try in Warsaw. Finally, Marchewka z
Groszkiem (see Polish Restaurants) has a respectable
line-up of bottled Ukrainian and Polish microbrews,
including several flavours of Ciechan.
Unfortunately, national distribution of Polish microbrews
is almost non-existent; case in point: you can get the lo-
cal Piast lager in every bar Wrocaw, but you wont find a
single bar or shop in Krakw selling it. Getting your hands
on a choice Polish microbrew is nearly impossible without
going to one of the places above or directly to the source,
however there are a couple exceptions for those who
want to sip a brew at home or need a little something for
the train ride (hey, isnt that illegal?). TheAlkoholeat ul.
Miodowa 21 in Kazimierz (D-6, Mon-Fri 08:00-23:00; Sat,
Sun 08:00-24:00) has a decent selection of national and
international beers probably the best youll find in any
shop in Krakw without trudging out toAlmain Galeria
Kazimierz (J-3, see Shopping). Otherwise we recommend
you start conditioning yourself as a vodka-drinker. Na
zdrowie. Literally.
Where To Drink Good Beer
Let us
invite you
The casual fun style sports bar offers
9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique
atmosphere and delicious tex-mex
cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and
professional staff make SomePlace
Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy
time with your family, friends, business
partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through
world stadiums, courses and halls
because life is better when shared.
sheraton.com/krakow
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
Let us
invite you
The casual fun style sports bar offers
9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique
atmosphere and delicious tex-mex
cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and
professional staff make SomePlace
Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy
time with your family, friends, business
partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through
world stadiums, courses and halls
because life is better when shared.
sheraton.com/krakow
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
86
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NIGHTLIFE
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel.
(+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.
pl. After a couple of refurbs, Pod Papugami has doubled
its capacity, the upstairs has been beset by some fake
brick finishing and brightened a bit, and though it may
have l ost some character, generall y i t now feel s l ess
like youre doing your drinking inside an ephysemic lung
than previ ousl y (not a bad trade-of f). Over two l evels
full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac, a billiards table,
plasma screens streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and
pints of Murphys, Guinness and Kilkenny, Pod Papugami
has a friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and
gentlemen alike. A great place to meet people and find
out just what exactly the craic is, PP actually captures
everything we like about being in an Irish bar. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. PAUXW
QUBE A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow.
Located in the Sheratons magnificent showpiece atrium,
QUBE is as sexy a spot as youll find for a drink in Krakw,
as youll notice from the glass ceiling many stories above
and the beauti ful waitresses gliding around dispatching
cocktails fixed by the expert barstaff. QUBEs real claim to
fame however is the 200 brands of vodka, served not on
ice, but in special shotglasses made of ice - a fantastic way
to introduce yourself to one of PLs leading exports (after
wives, cheap labour, moustaches and machinery). QOpen
08:00 - 01:00. PAUGW
Relaks D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 28, tel. (+48) 12 422 53
23, www.kluborelaks.pl. Welcome to Coolsville. Done
up in retro 70s pop style, Relaks is full of bright rainbow
colours, gummy bear lamps, vintage tables and chairs you
wish were in your own apartment and vintage ashtrays that
almost make smoking seem elegant. With low-key lighting,
this cafe/bar takes on a laid-back breezy atmosphere in the
afternoon and evenings before getting a bit more Boogie
Nights on weekends. Refreshingly un-Cracovian (no crum-
bling bricks?), if you like Spokj, youll find a bit more space
here and the cheap drinks and soundtrack of funk and blues
have Relaks set to overcome its salty name and establish
itself as a hipster mainstay. QOpen 10:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. PAGW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, www.sheraton.com/
krakow. Nine plasma screens for live sports, friendly staff
and a quality menu of bar eats that steers towards the Tex-
Mex end of the spectrum make SPE an easy place to witness
your down time overpower whatever itinerary you thought
you had in Krakw. The list of world beers goes above and
beyond the usual choice of local liquids, and the American
interior is a combo of Yank road signs and pics of rocknroll
heroes. Though not open late, this low-key expat and itiner-
ants bar is still your best bet for convincing the staff to help
you watch your favourite MLB, NFL or NBA team in action.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. PAUXW
Spokj C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, www.spokoj.pl. Play out
scenes from The Spy Who Shagged Me inside this trip back
to the 60s. Brown and orange colours permeate throughout,
and authentic touches come in the way of vintage radios
rescued from the attic, furry disco balls and a zany choice
of colours. But this place is no junk store throwback, the
interior looks sharp and snappy, complimented by music that
runs from funk to disco to jazz, making it popular with young
hipsters-in-training. QOpen 10:00 - 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:00,
Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. XW
Sports Pub C- 4, ul. Grodzka 50, tel. (+48) 12 422
40 73, www.sportspub.pl. Thi s formerl y character-
l ess cel l ar has been fi l l ed wi th the requi si te memora-
bi l i a, a bi l l i ards tabl e, footbal l tabl e (free!) and 6 LED
TVs to gi ve you an al ternati ve to some of Krakws
more stag-happy sports pubs. The tel es aren t huge,
but there i s a three metre proj ecti on screen ready for
the bi g match; that sai d, we can i magi ne thi ngs getti ng
pretty cramped. Wi th more l ocal s than forei gners, thi s
stands as a better pl ace to fi nd some casual sports
cameraderi e or chal l enge the nei ghbourhood j oysti ck
j ockeys to Pro Evo; pl ay free every day and ask about
frequent tourneys. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat,
Sun 13:00 - 01:00. EXW
Stary Port (The Old Port) B-3, ul. Straszewskiego
27 (entrance from ul. Jabonowskich ), tel. (+48) 12
430 09 62, www.staryport.com.pl/krakow. Krakows
only sailor bar could be best described in three words only:
Never-ending drunken singalong. This candlelit ship-in-a-
bottle is packed full of students and seamen on permanent
shore-leave and the selkies, sirens and sea-wenches that
love them. Surrounded by nautical knick-knacks, salty,
sea-creased musicians sing shanties into the wee hours
(particularly on Thursday nights) and fellowship is found
at the bottom of every bottle. Our favourite pub/plank to
walk. Fetch aft the rum, Marcin! QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
PAEXW
wita Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriaska
16, tel. (+48) 12 429 59 51, www.swietakrowa.
com. Perhaps the most enchanti ng and l ai dback bar i n
the Ol d Town, wi ta Krowa i s an i ntoxi cati ng al chemi c
el i xi r of al cohol, i ncense, candl el i ght, cl oves and ambi -
ent eastern grooves. Hi dden i n a smal l, soul ful bri ck
cellar of f Fl oriaska, The Hol y Cow i nhabi ts two ori ental
si tti ng rooms sl ung wi th prayer fl ags, l ow cushi oned
stool s and two l ofted l ounge areas. Ami abl e barmen
conj ure a range of i nvi gorati ng al cohol i nfusi ons and
i n wi nter thi s i s the per fect hi deaway for a hot krupni k
(and maybe an opi um nap). We mi ss the terrari um,
but wi ta Krowa i s sti l l a hi ghl y recommended cul t
hangout. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat
16:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. XW
Tram Bar C-3, ul. Stolarska 11, tel. (+48) 12 423 22
55, www.trambar.pl. You will love the menu: a faithful re-
production of the Krakw transport map with station names
replaced by drinks. Next stop, Herb and Honey Coffee?
Located next to the US Consulate Tram Bar is alternative
without going over the top; here you can escape the standard
Krakw tourist crowd, but avoid the more artsy types who
make so many places in the city unbearable. QOpen 07:30
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. AGW
Vis a Vis C- 3, Rynek Gwny 29, tel. (+48) 12 422
69 61. Perhaps the onl y space on the Rynek to survi ve
Krakws tourist boom wi th i ts scummy integri ty intact,
Vi s a Vi s i s a ti mel ess l ocal favouri te happy to tel l
forei gners to piss of f whil e indul ging pensioned Polish
drunkards until their heads hi t the beermat. Sadl y forced
to inflate to 8z a pint, this is still the cheapest drink on
the Rynek, making i ts seasonal outdoor tabl es the first
you shoul d l ook for a seat in before sending your most
competent compatriot to fetch a drink insi de the small
stool -laden bar where watching the l ocal bar fli es makes
for an intri guing social study. One of the few remaining
remnants of the real Krakw that the Rynek has l eft.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. UGW
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mix-
ing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
wi ni wka i s a cheap, dangerousl y easy to dri nk,
cherr yfl avoured vari ety. Youl l see students and
pensioners alike buying trays of i t at the bar, as well
as toothl ess tramps sharing a bottl e in corners of
tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefrui t j ui ce is
often added to cut the sweetness of this bri ght red
monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ubrwka
One of Pol ands most popul ar overseas vodka
exports, ubrwka has been produced i n Eastern
Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type
of grass speci fic to the primeval Biaowiea Forest
that straddles the border (a blade of which appears
i n each bottl e), ubrwka is fai nt yell ow i n col our,
with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste
which has been described as floral or having traces
of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on
its own, ubrwka is most commonl y combined with
apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
Goldwasser
A celebrated Gdask tradition since 1598, Goldwasser
is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat
gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in
the world, Goldwassers secret recipe contains some
20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but
spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint.
While we thought turning the potato into vodka was an
example of creative ingenuity, were not sure what sort
of statement the practice of turning gold into vodka
makes about Polish culture...
Polish Vodka
w w w . n i c n o w e g o . c o m
Irish bar
Nic Nowego
The One and Only 100% Irish
Owned Bar and Restaurant
People ask Why Nic Nowego ... Well, with over 300
bars and restaurants in the Old Town of Krakow we
decided on something a little different the bar with
Irish owner and Polish name that has been serving the
Local Community and Tourists alike for the last 8 years.
Here you find service with a smile, the best pint of
guinness outside of Dublin and all day breakfast
to die for. You are welcome -
modern Irish bar Nic Nowego
ul. w. Krzya 15, 31-028 Krakw
tel.: 12-421-61-88
Mon - Fri 7:00 - 3:00, Sat - Sun 9:00 - 3:00
nicnowego@yahoo.com
88
NIGHTLIFE
89
NIGHTLIFE
Clubs
With roughly 120,000 students and a growing tourist
industry egging it on, Krakws club scene continues to
expand beyond reason, with each successive offing trying
to out-swank its predecessor. The main hedonist high
streets are Floriaska (C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where
narry a medieval cellar will be left unthronged by sexed-up
students on a Friday night, or head to the tenement at
Wielopole 15 (see our box) and work your way through
four clubs in one building. For the specifics of whats on
daily visit krakow.inyourpocket.com and check out
our Events Calendar - giving you a breakdown of all the
evenings club nights with one click. Clubs in the Kazimierz
district appear in their own section.
Baccarat C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67
60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Walk beyond the velvet rope
of Baccarat and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of
money has been spent on making this arguably the most
stylish and extravagant music club in Krakw. Covered in
plush upholstery and full of fine touches including every
elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant mirrorball DJ station,
and even a room with a dancepole and wallsize mirror that
can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat clearly raises the bar on
Krakws nightlife scene. Of note is that this swanky swish
tank of a place and was a standard bearer in the smoky
days of Krakow cellar bars by being the first to go completely
non-smoking and it shows. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAX
Bdne Koo (Vicious Circle) C-3, ul. Bracka 4 (first
floor), tel. (+48) 500 19 01 42, www.blednekolo.pl.
Through the courtyard and up the stairs on your left, Bdne
Koo enjoys a sound reputation for stellar DJ sets and never-
ending parties, despite the fact that its little more than a
dive. That said, its exactly the kind of dive we enjoy - full of
students, cheap drinks and eclectic above-average music.
True, every room of the unimpressive interior looks exactly
like the last - red walls, red lighting, random photos and brown
leather couches with cigarette burns - but the sheer size of
this first floor tenement is sprawling, overlooking both the
street and the courtyard with a fantastic balcony. On week-
ends expect to hear it coming a block away, expend some
cash at the door and miss church in the morning. QOpen
09:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PAEXW
BonTon C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 4, tel. (+48) 603 12 34
98, www.bonton-krakow.com. BonTons biggest draw is
the daily drink specials luring young lads and lasses down the
long corridor and into this oasis closed off from the rest of
the world. A ground floor bar features a few tables that make
use of the sky as a ceiling, while down a unique set of stairs
with water flowing under them (used for a flirty photo shoot
during our visit) youll find a huge dancefloor, a wall of falling
water, plenty of seating and a bar on top of two enormous fish
tanks. Its a decent gimmick enhanced by primary colours,
giving BonTon a fun atmosphere where students move their
feet to keep from falling down. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 04:00. PAUGW
Centrala C-3, May Rynek 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 67,
www.klubcentrala.pl. Descend the most dangerous stairs
in Krakw into this positively massive club and music venue
spidering throughout several underground rooms with two
bars and even two garden spaces. Full of uneven plaster
painted over in white, the entire place looks like it could
be wrapped in gauze, while the pipes overhead have been
painted in bold colours to stand out. The stage hidden in the
very back looks set to become a great venue for catching lo-
cal live acts and DJ sets, while the preceding rooms possess
more of a laid-back bar atmosphere, making it permissible to
meet for a beer without getting all tarted up and teasing the
boys. Good bottles beers from the Okocim brewery make it
worthwhile. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PXW
Cie (Shadow) C-2, ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422
21 77. One of Krakws best clubs for several years running,
Cie is a wet dream for foreign lads weaned on commercial
house music and enjoying favourable exchange rates while
being fawned over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of
their sex appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone
numbers under the interrogation lamp of the morning, but
witness yourself scrambling back for more. More posturing
than truly exclusive, your impatience with the door queue is
the most likely thing to keep you out of Cies dark medieval
cellars, as long as youve made the effort to look the part
and can stand up straight. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. PAXW
El Sol B-1, ul. Batorego 1, tel. (+48) 506 39 84 76,
www.elsol-krakow.pl. Known as Krakws premier La-
tino club, El Sol might just as soon be known as Krakws
premier club for young peopl e who actuall y know how
to dance. DJs spi n sal sa, samba, merengue, cumbia,
bachata, latin pop, latin rock, bossanova, reggae and
reggaeton rhythms for a packed dancefloor of twirling
hourglass angels and Erasmus student showmen. The
fact that the dancefloor is in a separate room excuses
shyness, but also makes it di fficult to pick up a random
partner or enjoy as a spectator. Despite the passion of
the patrons and the sophisticated taste in music, a cel-
lar bar is still a cellar bar and this one gets as sticky and
grotty as the next. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. EX
Forty Kleparz I-1, ul. Kamienna 2-4, tel. (+48) 606 38
83 13, www.fortykleparz.com. Making use of a neglected,
oft-unnoticed 19th century Austrian bastion north of the Old
Town, Forty Kleparz has emerged as Krakws hippest new
destination for live music and club nights. Drawing an im-
pressive number of quality national and foreign artists to its
stage since opening, the 200 person concert hall posesses
modern professional sound and lighting while the areas flank-
ing it feature plenty of chic seating, screens for viewing the
action on-stage and two bars. Open Thursday to Saturday
and during events only, to get there take trams number 3 or
7 to the Nowy Kleparz stop. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAUEX
Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 790 53 93 30,
www.frantic.pl. Dance alongside hourglass figures in what
has roared back from a recent refurb to reassert itself as
one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets. The redesign is
your typical Krakw cellar contrast of rough exposed rock,
modern-minimal decr and illuminated boxes, but the newly
installed soundsystem has lured the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cats pajamas. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. PAEXW
Gorczka (Fever) B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48)
12 421 92 61, www.goraczka.com.pl. This main line
meatmarket is full of eager students, men with wandering
hands, sweaty couples making out and an overabundance
of dudes with spikey hair. If you arent keen to dance theres
really no place to hide in this relatively small cellar club where
extremely loud music is managed by quality DJs keeping the
flesh in friction with proven dance hits rather than whatever
Poland is a country with a rich football heritage, fanatical
supporters and a major European tournament to look for-
ward to hosting. However there are major problems with
corruption, and a pretty serious hooligan issue. So while
watching a game here is not discouraged, be warned.
Poland as a national side has finished 3rd in 2 World
Cups and the older fans among you will remember
the likes of Grzegorz Lato (Golden Boot winner at the
West German World Cup of 1974), Kazimierz Deyna and
Zbigniew Boniek (one hal f of the great Juventus midfield
pairing with Michel Platini). Poles are big fans of the
game but the current state of the game in this country
is depressing. A series of defeats, poor performances
and lack of new talent have Poles thankful that they
quali fy for Euro 2012 by way of being hosts but fearful
that this will result in a series of high profile thrashings
at the hands of some of the continents bigger sides.
At club level things are even worse if that is possible.
With the national side typically recruiting from the limited
number of players plying their trade in foreign leagues,
Polish clubs are even worse off. Their standing in Euro-
pean competition is a disgrace with their last representa-
tives in the group stage of the Champions League being
Widzew Lodz in 1996. The 2010/2011 season saw all
bar one Polish entry in Europe out by the end of August.
However in Krakow you are able to see 2 of the coun-
trys biggest clubs and experience a match day quite
unlike anything you might be used to. Say it quietly but
Wisa, formed in 1906, are Krakows biggest club with
twelve league titles with 7 having come since 1999,
but European glory has proved elusive. Wisa play their
matches at ul. Reymonta 22 inside what ultimately will
be a completely rebuilt 34,000-seater stadium.
Cracovi a, al so founded over 100 years have the
distinction of being Polands longest surviving profes-
sional outfit, as well as the late Popes team of choice.
Founded in 1906 the stripes won four league titles
during the interwar period, and followed it up by scoring
another success in 1948. Since then the trophy cleaner
has had nothing to do but clear away cobwebs. Having
moved into a newly built stadium, Cracovia tickets are
cheaper although security is tighter.
One thing to be aware of in Polish football is the peculiar
allegiances that exist between supporters of different
teams and more importantly the animosity amongst others.
When two friends are playing each other expect a cheery
atmosphere, bbq and beer being provided by the hosts and
the distinct lack of uniformed police and security. If however
enemies are playing each other, expect baton wielding,
armoured police and scenes from Braveheart. Complete
lunacy. For the record Wisla Krakow are big friends with
Lechia Gdansk and Slask Wroclaw and big enemies with
their local rivals Cracovia with the Krakow Derby carrying
the nickname The Holy War. Cracovia are good friends
with Arka Gdynia and Lech Poznan who just happen to be
local rivals of Wislas friends. Can you spot a theme? The
animosity between the two was stoked in early 2011 when
a well-known Cracovia fan was beaten to death in what
appeared to be an organised attack by fans of Wisla. Sup-
porters groups have claimed that the incident had nothing
to do with football or the bulk of genuine supporters and
more to do with hooligans, drugs and turf wars.
Local Football
ul. w. Jana 18
Tel. 012 422 61 01
012 422 82 99 www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
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90
NIGHTLIFE
91
NIGHTLIFE
rubbish they think is popular in London right now. Its a playful
atmosphere and youre guaranteed to have a drink spilled
on you, but nonetheless, youve got every reason to feel bad
about yourself if youre heading home alone. Be prepared to
show ID and dont be surprised to see a streetfight out front.
QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAEX
Imbir D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35. I f youre tired of trendy
new clubs that give themselves Google meta-tags instead
of names (El ectro-hop dub n bass techno trip-trance
dance party toni ght at Chillout Music Gallery Cafe
Lounge & Cocktail Concept Club! Starts 22:30. Entry
20z.), then you might enjoy reminding yoursel f how it feels
to hang out in a classic Cracovian student club. Remem-
ber when going out in Krakw meant tumbling down the
stairs of a cellar into a raucous dive full of cheap drinks,
sociable students, wacky absinthe-inspired artwork and
unpredi ctabl e, outdated musi c? Where the beer taps
hadnt been cleaned for years, the bricks were black with
tar, and when the legs of your chair suddenly fell out from
under you a vodka shot would be extended rather than
a hand? I f it werent for Imbir, we might miss those days.
As eclectic and unpretentious as they come, check their
Facebook page for everything from concerts and DJ sets
to cult movie nights and variety shows. QOpen 18:00 -
04:00. PEX
d Kaliska C-3, ul. Floriaska 15, tel. (+48) 12
422 70 42, www.lodzkaliska.pl. Having achieved cult
status in d with their eponymous club, the vanguard d
Kaliska art collective has given Krakw this gleamer full of
antique furnishings, glass and chrome, smoke and mirrors,
bare bums and absurdist art. Indeed, the entire labyrinthine
cellar is decked in the veteran art groups work, which deliv-
ers a beautifully balanced low-brow-high-art concept largely
through an outlandish abundance of boobs indifferent to their
own exposure, and has succeeded in attracting Krakws
bohemian savant set. A deliberately disorienting use of
glass and mirrors makes the club a potential deathtrap for
blind drunks, and the toilets employ the mindtrick of two-way
mirrors to make you think the whole place is watching you
pop your squat. A dancefloor devoid of house anthems with
a lofted DJ station and stage for live concerts helps make
d Kaliska an exciting multi functional must-see venue.
QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. PAEXW
Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna 1,
tel. (+48) 12 421 12 17, www.klubministerstwo.pl.
A well-loved design in this subterranean sinners resort
features lots of tile, gold brick, exposed rock, two bars, two
DJ stations and raised seating areas to retreat from the
dancefloor action where an eclectic range of funk, old school
and break beats are likely to lure you. The smell of Tabasco
from mad dog shots lingers at the bar where bronze ass-
groping barstools give you a free frisking. Always packed with
students and party people, Ministerstwo hosts the citys best
midweek party on otherwise sleepy Tuesday nights and the
laidback ground-floor garden is one of the best kept secrets
in Krakw during the warmer months. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00,
Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Prozak C- 4, Pl. Dominikaski 6, tel. (+48) 512 35 53
05, www.prozak.pl. Having fallen from favour amongst
Krakws most serious clubbers, Prozak has worked hard
to re-establish itsel f on the cutting edge of the citys club
scene and succeeded impressively with a long-running
line-up of top international DJs on weekends: Icelands
Gus Gus was presiding over the party as we wrote this.
Occupyi ng a seemi ngl y endl ess maze of underground
rooms over two levels with an incredible four bars and
three dancefl oors, the crowd is fun, flirty and forei gn-
friendly as DJs rattle the decks until the natural selection
of those with blondes and those with kebabs takes place
in the blurry li ght of another dawn. Much of Krakws
expat community has Prozak to blame for their long-term
tenure. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00.
PAUEG
Rdza (Rust) C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 600 39
55 41, www.rdza.pl. This cave-like basement with a door
queue rates as one of the best clubs on call in Krakow. Look
your best to make it past face control then take your place on
the dance floor alongside delicious looking party creatures.
Imported DJs and the cream of Polish house music keep the
party rocking into silly oclock. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. PAG
Shakers B-3, ul. Szewska 5 (first floor), tel. (+48)
660 11 40 34, www.shakers.com.pl. Actually the name
references the cocktail twisting barstaff, but there are still
plenty of shimmying posteriors in here. Shakers is your
classic Cracowian cocktail club: just snooty enough for
the concept to succeed, but not so up its own...shaker
that you wont have a great time. DJ nights range from
funk to electro, with the action happening on an intimate
dancefloor between the bar and posh toilets. Cocktails
range from 12 to 27z and the though the list isnt so
creati ve the bartenders put on an impressi ve j uggling
show. Violet walls, black booths with gaudy gold pillows
that match the round gold tables and the ubiquitous FTV
make up the decor of this velvet rope affair. Dole out the
1100z for a bottle of Dom Perignon and youve got a free
invite to the swanky VIP room. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Jazz Clubs
Harris Piano Jazz Bar C-3, Rynek Gwny 28, tel.
(+48) 12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl. This down-
stairs jazz den is frequent host to outstanding concerts, yet
remains one of our least favourite venues thanks to the small,
cluttered seating arrangement: If you havent reserved a
table for the show, youll find nowhere to sit and if you have
reserved a chair, once you take your seat youve no chance of
getting up again. Aggravating the dilemma are the girls on the
market square baiting more and more tourists past the ticket
vendors where theyll then have no view of the action. Though
Harris can be hotter than a suana in summer, it serves as
a great winter bolthole best enjoyed when musicians are at
the bar, not on stage. Q Open 17:00-02:00. From March 15
Open 13:00-02:00. PEGW
Night Club 66 J-1, Al. 29 Listopada 165, tel. (+48)
12 418 16 50, www.nightclub66.pl. While a few
nightclubs around the Old Town have become downright
dodgy of late, this discreet pleasure den north of the
centre doesnt pull any punches. Ogle playful stripteases
as multiple vixens grace the oddly, shall we say, amoeba-
shaped stage at the same time, eager to undress each
other; Pole-on-pole action at its best. Laid out over two
200m levels, the decor is a screwy mix of odd lighting and
organic shapes and guarded parking ensures your wife
doesnt take a golf club to the family car. Beer and booze
start at 9z and there are a variety of private dances
available; for more of an idea, check out the film on 66s
website: skintillating. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PAX
Adult Entertainment
Wielopole 15 (The Complex) D-4, ul. Wielopole
15. What looks like a dirty, dingy, unkempt tenement
from the outside, is actually...well, just that, but with
thousands of people herding themselves through it
every weekend. One of Krakws most legendary late
night destinations, 4 separate clubs sling shots inside
the sloppy confines of this 3-story fumbling free-for-all.
As none employ strict face-checks or entry fees, its
easy to stagger from venue to venue (though you cant
take your drink with you) - creating a never-ending house
party throughout the building from 20:00 to 8:00 in the
morning every uninhibited night of the week.
On the ground floor, Playground represents a more
mainstream, bare-bones Polish discotheque with boom-
ing techno music, barely-legal girls and messy patrons
unable to climb the stairs. Should you survive the ascent
yourself, youll find two of Krakws more unique clubs:
Caryca and ubu-Dubu. The object of a recent renovation
and dancefloor expansion, Caryca has sadly traded much
of the evocative candlelit atmosphere and saggy furnish-
ings that made it popular with hipsters as a laid-back
alternative to its neighbours, for a louder soundsystem
with little leftover space to escape from it. Music varies
from electro to reggae to hardcore techno on the small
sweaty dancefloor in the back, depending on the order of
the evening. Across the hall is ubu-Dubu, a communist-
themed disco playing old school dance hits like ABBA and
MJ. Strewn with second-hand furnishings, red tide relics
and spilt beer, ubu is a contagious, fun-loving venue filled
with students, holiday-makers and mirthy mavens letting
their hair down and picking their feet up. Should ubu close
its doors on you (sometime around 6 am), you can bet your
final zoty that upstairs Kitsch wont keep you out. The
citys foremost meat-market, Kitsch is often referred to as
a gay bar by track-suited locals - perhaps the only social
group the club doesnt smile upon. A friendly, colourful, fur-
fringed disco with a massive dancefloor full of foreigners
on the prowl and dressed-down, sex-up students wholl
make out with almost anything including the mirror, Kitsch
is a sticky-floored, shameless, shambling sex-pit, the likes
of which youre not likely to forget. A swarming dancefloor
with brass poles provides Pole-on-pole action while pop
hits that cater to the clubs name keep the crowd gyrating.
While the four clubs are owned separately, they all share
one thing in common: quite possibly the most offensive
toilets your five senses have ever had the misfortune of
encountering. Though the neighbours have been trying
in vain to shut down this hedonist haven for the last six
or seven years, Wielopole 15 continues to be the most
popular party in town; a visit to which any pleasure-seeker
is obliged to make. Stumble out of the doors on a Sunday
morning and wander into nearby Hala Targowas weekly
flea market for one of the most absurd bender-enders of
your blessed little life. Sleeping is giving in...
Wielopole 15
PiecArt C-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 64
25, www.piecart.pl. The most attractive of Krakws jazz
dens, and as such a honeypot for pompous, preened jazz
know-it-alls. The vaulted interiors make for great acoustics
and frequently attract the biggest names in the city during
Wednesday and Thursday night concerts, but stand warned
about the rife snobbism of punters and staff alike. QOpen
14:00 - 01:00. AEX
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2, ul. w. Jana
15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www.stalowemagnolie.com.
Not dissimilar to a 1920s Parisian brothel, the interior of this
legendary venue is an appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and
deep sofas, with jewel-encrusted pictureframes and strings of
red fairy lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instruments
cling to the walls as a team of young waitresses in evening
dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The live music
is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced chanteuses croon-
ing into the night to the appreciative applause of sharply attired
couples and Rolexed businessmen. A small fee gets you into the
VIP section with its own DJ station and bar, where plush, silk-
canopied beds forbid bashful behavior. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. PAEX
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel. (+48) 12
431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A pet project from
the same team behind Stalowe Magnolie, so expect much
of the same. The interior is a sensory delight washed in red,
with plush loveseats, scattered cushions, exotic lamps and
an outstanding bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian
decadence is matched perfectly with live piano and jazz
performances. Q Open 18:00-02:00,Fri 18:00-04:00, Sat
12:00-04:00, Sun 12:00-02:00. From March Open 12:00-
02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-04:00. PAEG
92
93
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
regulars and increasing number of tourists queuing before
the indifferent barstaff. The cellar, when its not being used
as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts
in town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer
festivals. Quintessential Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Mon
10:00 - 04:00. PAIEXW
Aloha Caf D-6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel. (+48) 12 421 25
89, www.alohacafe.pl. This kitschy Hawaiian pub features
a colourful cocktail list with David Hasselhoff on the front,
walls adorned with photos of palm-lined beaches and sand
spread liberally across the floor. Most fun are the telephones
installed at each table, enabling you to order your next drink
without getting up, or call the cutie at the next table without
having to do the hard work of getting her number first. The
weekend beach parties and luaus beckoning local barefoot
beauties in coconut bikinis and grass skirts, are an excellent
excuse to get silly. High five. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 06:00. AEGW
BeerGallery E-6, ul. Warszauera 10, tel. (+48) 601
40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. A beguiling jamboree of
reproduction 18th-century furniture and cutting-edge dcor
sets the stage for a friendly affair populated by chirpy locals
and over 100 beers including the fabulous La Trappe and
Kozel to name but a couple of tipples. Upbeat, and including
the addition of a small dance floor towards the back, this
is what Kazimierz was invented for. A splendid option for
lovers of a good night out, especially those who appreciate
their ale QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
PUIEGW
Esze D- 6, ul. Jzefa 18, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27.
Featuring the all too familiar regimental Kazimierz accou-
trements including a dazzling composition of old and new
dcor, Esze bursts onto the scene like a sel f-conscious
balloon. Long and thin and separated into several small
rooms, the drinks are predi ctabl e as are many of the
conversations rattling backwards and forwards between
the image-conscious locals occupying the furniture. The
teenage gentleman on duty during our visit was charming
enough, plus theres home-made apple pie to stave off
the hunger and a small fireplace waiting in the wings for
the impending winter. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. UIXW
Eszeweria D- 6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19
27, www.myspace.com/eszeweria. Though seemingly
oxymoronic, Eszeweria actually thrives thanks to the stew-
ardship of ambitious, music-loving bohemians. Perhaps em-
bodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not directly
on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world antiques, candleabras,
frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls regularly play host
to some of the citys most novel concerts, having become
the go-to contact for overseas artists slumming around
Europe. Though the stage (or lack thereof) is awkward, the
atmosphere is intimate and friendly, and the restroom may
be the most romantic in town (no wonder theres a queue).
Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 05:00. EXW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails in
Krakw - test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series
of sleek rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who
look like they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food,
an enormous garden (heated in winter) and sexy service,
this is modern Krakw at its strongest. You may not want
to leave. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00.
PAUXW
Les Couleurs D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 42
70. The quintessential thinking mans cafe, Les Couleurs
is a special favourite among Krakws aging, dog-faced
bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized,
non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered
with classic French posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg,
Kazimierzs most well-lit bar - and one of its most well-loved
- is an anytime affair where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and
blood are as interchangable and easily confused as work,
pleasure and art; as day and night. Recommended. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PUXW
Lokator D-7, ul. Krakowska 27, www.lokator.pointblue.
com.pl. One of Krakws most unique venues, Lokator is a
veritable independent culture centre for art, film, music and
publishing. Despite being a bit on the fringe of the citys nightlife
scene, Lokator has nonetheless survived thanks to an insular,
yet perseverant creative community that organises and sup-
ports its events, including concerts, film screenings, gallery
openings and the publication of a bi-monthly culture magazine,
Mrwkojad (Anteater). Laid-back yet refined, Lokator features
red walls covered in silk-screened prints by in-house artists,
an upright piano and an especially dark and mysterious beer
garden. An adjoining bookshop (open Mon-Sat, 12:00-20:00)
sells the work Lokators own publishing company and other lo-
cal scribes. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. EXW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 783
09 60 16, www.miejsce.com.pl. Opened by the owners of a
retro interior decor store by the same name, Miejsce instantly
established itself as Krakws hipster headquarters. With half
the patrons not hesitating to go behind the bar themselves,
here youve put yourself at the centre of a closely-knit social
scene, which a flapper dress or oversized spectacles and tight
pants will ease your integration into, if thats the goal. Decked
out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps of different shapes and
sizes, offset by hastily painted white walls and fantastic Polish
film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly original with a post-industrial
artsy atmosphere that makes a nice departure from the brood-
ing, gloomy nostalgia of the districts other offerings. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. AUXW
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85
32, www.mle.pl. The most glorious beer graden in Krakw,
and right next to the site of several scenes in Spielbergs
Schindlers List. If that parade gets rained on, take solace
in the cross street interior with an Old World atmosphere
of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky portraits, wooden
floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling street-side windows
(not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great place for
a romantic evening conversation or afternoon coffee with a
book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once about:
taking things as they come. Recommended. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AGW
Moment E-6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00,
www.momentcafe.pl. From locals to tourists, laptoppers
to hipsters, they take all kinds in Moment and seem to know
how to please them all. The interior has recently swapped high,
sturdy tables for low, loungy sofas with splashy fabrics, and
though its not really an improvement (in fact it now just looks
like an extension of Nova next door), the menu is better than
ever with bargain breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps, salads
and a range of larger entrees. Plenty of Plac Nowy seating and
evening drink specials are yet more reasons why Moment has
become a popular place to lose track of time, not to mention
the clutch of inaccurate vintage clocks lining the walls, giving
you a handy excuse for missing your next day rendezvous with
last nights club conquest. Though this would be an ideal place
for it. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PAEGW
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish
district began back in the nineties, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict build-
ings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area
that passes for furniture, add a shelf of liquers and presto!
- open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the
spirit of the neighbourhood. The district quickly became
synonymous with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight,
antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of
alcohol one might be able to commune with a lost, forgotten
world beneath the haze. As the areas clean-up, aided by the
1993 release of Schindlers List, brought more and more
tourists to its historical sights, Kazimierz went through a
renaissance that saw it quickly develop into the citys hip-
pest neighbourhood. Today the area is chock-a-block with
bars, clubs and restaurants, even ousting the Old Town per
square metre, and though a trace of that original charisma
vanishes with each new cocktail bar opening, there is no
better place in Krakw for a night out. Kazimierzs history
makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it is the districts
nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much of the mystique
it still carries today.
Bars
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00,
www.alchemia.com.pl. One of Krakws most evocative
bars, aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia
candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of
the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day with
square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemias murky
mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy
Omerta D-6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul. Kupa),
tel. (+48) 501 64 84 78, www.omerta.com.pl. Easy to
overlook thanks to a tired mafia theme replete with pics and
quotes from The Godfather, Omerta makes up for the lack of
originality with the best beer list in town. A lesson in local beer-
manship, almost all of the 50+ ales are Polish and the menu
breaks them into categories, even ranking them for you; discover
the joy of miodowe (honey beer) among others. Well-tempered
locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat visits are inevitable
and encouraged. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00.
Ptasiek (Birdy) E-6, ul. Dajwr 3, tel. (+48) 12 431
03 41, www.ptasiek.eu. Thanks to engaged manage-
ment, a great sound system and intimate downstairs stage,
Ptasiek has emerged as one of the best live music venues in
Krakw, and subsequently a primary hangout for Krakws
young maestros and melody-makers. Wednesday night
jam sessions show off the best of the music academy with
tunes grooving well into the morning. The aviary dcor is a
bit off the mark, but fares better upstairs where youll find
the usual Kazimierz knick-knacks amongst black and white
photographs and a couple of sofas. With a great atmosphere
and good people, its always a letdown when Ptasiek closes.
Expect to hear Jazz/Acid. Jazz/Blues and Rock depending
on the night. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Wed 15:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. AIEXW
Singer D-6, ul. Estery 20, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. One
of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that
was to come essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic
of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and
candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its
long tenure, lofty reputation and occassional intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 2:30 am when tabletops turn
into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip
and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer
and other ethnic music, the entire bar begins to feel like a
ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of
time are obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few good ones here.
QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. AIXW
Smocza Jama (Dragons Cave) E-5, ul. Miodowa 43,
tel. (+48) 601 40 88 70, www.miodowa43.pl. Promoting
Polish micro-brews, Smocza Jama features unpasteurised
ales from the Fortuna brewery on draught, or help yourself
to the wide selection sealed inside the cooler, including the
recommended Zoty Smok, Czerwony Smok, Srebrny Smok
or Czarny Smok (thats Gold, Red, Silver or Black Dragon to
you and I). A wonderful maze of underground rooms, deco-
rated with dragon illustrations and playing golden oldies of
the 60s-80s provides the setting in which to devour some
of the best beer in town. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00. PGW
Szynk (The Tap Room) D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel.
(+48) 695 41 50 66, www.szynk.pl. A cosy place for
a quiet drink and a bite to eat, Szynk is designed for those
who appreciate great beer and good conversation. The
labels claim its their own, but we suspect the dark and
amber beers dispensed on draft hail from none other than
the Stary Browar brewery - either way, its delicious and all
too uncommon around town. Youll also find Kolak, Wiezen
and Ciechan Miodowy available in bottles, not to mention big
plates of traditional Polish grub and hot ciabattas that hit the
spot. The owners can often be seen pottering around and
gossiping with customers amid the interior filled with village
detritus featuring washboards and lanterns, skeleton keys
and empty pictureframes on the walls. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. AG
Club Clu E-6, ul. Szeroka 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 26
09, www.clubclu.pl. Half lounge, half club, and proof
that theres more to ulica Szeroka than klezmer music
and second hand furniture. The red-lit lounge room is the
perfect space for after-party moments with its choice
of white sofas and understated interior of gas lighters,
sculptures and exposed brick walls. The dance floor is
more futuristic and fills with sweaty clubbers shaking
their hips to house, rnb and latin sounds. QOpen
18:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAGW
Pozytywka (The Music Box) D-6, ul. Boego
Ciaa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 82, www.pozytywka.
pl. A stark, industrial motif comes paired with classic
dance music and red, blue and green disco lights. Its
completely un-Kazimierz in design, but not in atmo-
sphere. A popular pre-club spot with projections, exhibi-
tions and even strawberries laid out on the bar. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. PAGW
Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 00,
www.taawa.pl. Orange-skinned mini-skirted solarium
casualties will feel at home in this modern discotheque
of prismatic lights and LED screens with silhouettes of
naked girls reclining in Martini glasses on the silver walls.
Carpeting, illuminated glass tables and purple leather
furnishings round out this refreshingly one room affair
where long-legged lookers dance to disappointingly
mainstream music. Looking to outclass Krakws other
clubs, Taawa succeeds easily, especially in design, with
strict facecheck and dress code. Due to close sometime
during Feb/Mar for redecoration so be warned. QOpen
21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAEXW
Kazimierz Clubs
94
95
HISTORY HISTORY
One of oldest cities in Poland, archaeo-
logical evidence proves that there
were settlements in the Krakw area
as early as the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill dating
back - way, way back - to 50,000BC.
Legend attributes the citys founding
to Krakus, the mythical ruler who
vanquished the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds named
after Krakus and his daughter Wanda,
located in the Podgrze and Nowa
Huta distri cts respecti vel y, were
probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date the
settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly later in the 8th century,
when it was the capital of a tribe of pagan Slavs known as the
Vistulans. By 966, the date of the first written record of the
citys name, Krakw had already grown into a busy commercial
centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians,
passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being
incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the
990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city devel-
oped rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038
Krakw became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle
becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in
1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287.
Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded
by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which
would be modernised over the next few centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which
were closely connected with and would later be incorporated
into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364
he founded the Krakw Academy, now known as Jagiellonian
University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in
Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian
Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its
golden age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new
buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel
Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture.
However, after several centuries of roaring times the citys
fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in
1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swed-
ish House of Vasa, Krakws importance began to decline,
resulting in Sigismund IIIs decision to move the Polish capital
to Warsaw in 1596; however Krakw maintained its role as
the official site of royal coronations and burials.
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish
Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed
20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed
the worlds second democratic constitution (after the US)
on May 3, 1791, however only days later the countrys more
militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia,
Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of
Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition
transpired twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputa-
tion as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in
1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated his
famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it eventually
failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the
entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795)
and Krakw became part of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Krakw became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed the city in advance
of the wars end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Krakw, setting up command of their General Government
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated in to the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgrze district, with
the Liban and Paszw work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated on
January 18th 1945, with the fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation began,
and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the countrys
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Krakws intellectual and artistic heritage through industri-
alisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Krakws
archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Krakw
is arguably Polands most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2010 the city was visited by over 8 million people.
966: First written record of the city
990: Incorporated into the Piast dynasty
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1241: The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: Coronation of King Wadysaw the Short in Wawel
Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Krakw
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Li thuanian grand duke Jagi ell o creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Krakw to Vienna, defeating the Turks and sav-
ing Christian Europe
1734: Coronation of King August III, the final coronation
in Wawel Cathedral
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussi an army captures Krakw after the
Kociuzko Uprising; citys regalia stolen and lost
forever
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgrze
district
1942: Establishment of the Paszw concentration
camp in Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtya
inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Party-free el ecti ons i n Pol and; Communi st
regime crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to par-
ticipate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into
national mourning
2007: Krakw cel ebrates the 750 anni versary of
obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a
tourist destination
2010: President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk
Russia; Kaczyski and his wife Maria are con-
troversially buried in the Royal Crypt at Wawel
Krakw Historical Timeline
One of the most fas-
ci nati ng tradi ti ons for
touri sts and Krakow-
ians is the hejna (pro-
nounced haynow) a
short, mel odious bugl e
call played every hour
from the east, west,
north and south si des
of St. Mary Cathedrals
l ef t tower (C-3). Ergo
the most fasci nati ng
and envi abl e profes-
si on carri ed out 54m
above the city has to be
that of the trumpeter
who plays i t.
Mi cha Ko ton has been responsi bl e for the tradi -
ti on si nce 2006 when he took over the rol e from
hi s father, Jan Ko ton, Seni or Fi re Marshal l for
the Krakw Fi re Bri gade. Jan hi msel f had been
cl i mbi ng the 239 steps of St. Mar ys tower to
carr y out the tradi ti on si nce 1971, keepi ng the
hejna i n the fami l y af ter hi s own fathers 35-year
sti nt. But the j ob i s more than a source of pri de
and fami l y heri tage. The seven fi remen chosen to
pl ay are on cal l for a 24-hour rotati on then of f for
48 hours. Whi l e on cal l , they must be al er t ever y
hour to ri ng the church bel l and pl ay preci sel y on
the hour. The seven trumpeters carr y out thei r
dut y wi th great di sci pl i ne, as such a l ong-l asti ng
tradi ti on cannot be negl ected. And what a tradi ti on
i t i s. The most commonl y read l egend traci ng the
hejna i s that one morni ng i n 1241 the Tar tars
i nvaded Krakw (as they al ways do). The warni ng
song was bl ared to arouse the sl umberi ng ci t y
to arms. The man pl ayi ng was shot i n the neck,
thus abruptl y cut ti ng of f the song i n mi d-mel ody.
To thi s day, the tune cuts of f i n mi d-recapi tul ati on
symbol i zi ng Krakws vi gi l ance as wel l as com-
memorati ng the l one ni ght guard who aroused the
ci t y to defence, thereby savi ng i t. However, Pol i sh
j ournal i st Leszek Mazan wrote i n Polityka maga-
zi ne that he bel i eves Ameri can j ournal i st John M.
Kel l y fabri cated the l egend i n 1929. Whi l e l i t tl e
to no documentati on regardi ng the ori gi ns of the
song has been found, Mr. Ko ton and the other
pl ayers are cer tai n the songs stor y far precedes
John Kel l ys wri ti ng as a fi re warni ng for the ci t y.
The mel ody came from Hungar y and was appro-
pri atel y used as a warni ng for fi res or i nvasi ons
as the word hejna i n Hungari an means wake up.
Pri or to the 15th centur y when the tower on St.
Mar ys was compl eted, thi s warni ng was sounded
from the ci t y wal l s, whi ch i s most l i kel y where the
l egendar y trumpeter was shot and ki l l ed. Whi l e
the hi stori cal bi r th and devel opment of Krakws
trademark remai ns a myster y, any vi si tor or Kra-
kowi an wi l l surel y at test that the hejna s l i vi ng
tradi ti on defi nes and shapes Krakw. I n addi ti on
to pl easi ng vi si tors abl e to wi tness the bugl e cal l
l i ve from the church tower ever y hour, the tune can
al so be heard al l over Pol and when i t i s broadcast
l i ve ever y day at noon on Trj ka Radi o, number
99, 3 on the radi o di al i n Ma opol ska.
The Hejna
Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
96
97
ESSENTIAL KRAKW
Arriving upon Krakws main
market square or Rynek (C-
3), you are now standing in the
heart of Poland with your finger
on its pulse. Historically, cultur-
ally and spiritually the Rynek
and Wawel may be the two most
important sights in the country
(sorry Warsaw). The largest me-
dieval market square in Central
Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200
metres square and functions as
the citys social gravitation point.
Lined with cafes and restau-
rants, filled with people, pigeons,
street performers, musicians
and horse-drawn carriages, this
is a place of festivals, concerts,
parades and other events. At
its centre lies the impressive
Cloth Hall or Sukiennice - a neo-Gothic structure which
has evolved and grown over the years, serving as a market for
merchants since the Middle Ages. Directly before you as youre
leaving Floriaska is St Marys Cathedral or Mariacki - one
of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country famed for its
incredible altarpiece and stained glass. Its from atop the taller
of the two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated
tune every hour on the hour - dont miss it. On the other side
of the square youll find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing
platform at the top (open in season) and a theatre and bar in
the former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
pl. Wszystkich witych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica (B/C-4) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisaw
Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while directly before
you are three more incredible stained glass windows by
Krakws favourite son in a specially-made modern building.
Ulica Grodzka leads you past Peter & Pauls Cathedral
(C-4) with its striking sculptures of the 12 disciples posed
before it. Cut across the small square to your right and youll
find yourself on one of Krakws most handsome streets,
ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul IIs former residence
is at numbers 19-21, which now house the Archdiocesan
Museum (C-5). Kanonicza lets out directly at the foot of
Wawel Castle (B/C-5), the citys defining landmark. A
source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel
is worth spending half a day exploring, as well as the Wisa
riverbanks below.
Other Old Town highlights include the famous Czartoryski
Museum (D-2) - lucky enough to claim one of only a handful
of Da Vinci paintings on display in the world within its collec-
tion, but unluckily for you its currently closed for renovation.
Instead give some time to the fabulous 20th century art
collection on the top floor of the National Museum (H-3).
The Old Town is also home to the second oldest university in
Central Europe. Jagielloian Universitys Collegium Maius
(B-3) is the schools oldest building and was the studying
place of Copernicus. Take an hour out to see the incredible
library and lecture hall, as well as the oldest surviving globe
in the world to depict the Americas. Anyone looking to do
some bizarre bargain hunting should head to one of Krakws
catch-all marketplaces, with Stary Kleparz (C/D-1) and
Hala Targowa (E-4) - especially during its Sunday morning
flea market - being bona fide cultural experiences in their
own right (see Shopping for more). Finally, if youre looking
for a leisure activity on a lovely day, the ascent to the top of
Kopiec Kociuszko (F-3) is well-rewarded with fantastic
views of the entire Old Town.
SIGHTSEEING
Rynek Gwny PKO
Peter & Pauls Cathedral soylentgreen23, pl.wikipedia.org
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with
the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of Polish
kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from the
14th century to the very end of the 16th century. Most of the
Old Towns prime sights (more information on which can be
found in these pages with help from the index) lay along this
route from the Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many
of less noble lineage, however, the route begins at Krakws
train station, a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from the
station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in
the green space that encircles the Old Town known as the
Planty (D-2). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty was
once a series of medieval forti fications surrounded by a
moat. After Polands Third Partition in the late 18th century,
the order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph
I to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks
to local effort the northern parts of the wall were spared,
including the magni ficent Barbican and Floriaska Gate.
Walking the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of
the Sowacki Theatre (D-2) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A
marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a
bit difficult to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable
ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead,
the circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2) was added to
the citys defences in the late 15th century while, directly
across from it, the Floriaska Gate that officially began the
Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and youre
on one of Krakws main commercial streets. Behind the
Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont fail to notice
the architectural detail of the facades. On this street youll
find the Jan Matejko House and Museum, as well as the
underappreciated Pharmacy Museum (C-2).
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongels stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities
in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not
to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego
set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the en-
chanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced
to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb
of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of the most
beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated
by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever UNESCO
World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka
Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of
majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares,
cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks
and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Krakws historic
centre is the pride of Poland.
What To See
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with
Wawel towering between them. These three areas are requisite
for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day - and have
been given their own separate treatment with accompanying
cultural listings within this guide. Though one could spend their
life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards,
cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (weve
attempted to make a life out of it), if you get the opportunity,
dont hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgrze. Just
beyond Kazimierz, Podgrze is the citys most naturally beautiful
and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage trail also naturally
leads here where the worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation
played out and Schindler made a name for himself.
Within these pages youll also find a section devoted to Nowa
Huta, one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built.
Designed to be the antithesis of everything Krakws Old Town
represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the massive steel-
works and other commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram
ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more should
strongly consider daytrips to Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkenau
and Tarnw, information about all of which youll find here by
reading on. However long your stay, the meticulously updated
information in this guide will help you make the most of it. Enjoy
exploring Krakw and Maopolska.
Cloth Hall Rodrigo Galindez
St. Marys Basilica
City Tourist Information D-2, ul. Szpitalna 25, tel.
(+48) 12 432 01 10, www.infokrakow.pl. The official
city tourist office. Also on ul. w. Jana 2 (10:00-18:00).
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.com. Also at
ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, 12 421 13 27, Open 09:00-21:00)
. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Y
Jordan Tourist Information and Accommoda-
tion Centre D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
60 91, www.it.jordan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Maopolska Tourist Inf ormation C- 4, ul.
Grodzka 31, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 06, www.mcit.
pl. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information Office Marco der Pole C-3,
Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 431 16 78, www.krakow-
travel.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.
Tourist Service Center (Centrum Obsugi
Ruchu Turystycznego) B-5, ul. Powile 11, tel.
(+48) 12 616 18 86, www.infokrakow.pl. Cunningly
hidden away in the side of Wawel Hill and consequently
hard to find if youre coming from the wrong way, this new
and much welcome tourist information facility contains
an information point about the city, specific information
about Wawel, even more information about the region
in general plus everything visitors need to know about
events. Theres also a gift shop and a rather splendid
little snack shop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Wyspiaski Pavilion C- 4, Pl . Wszystki ch
witych 2, tel. (+48) 12 616 18 86, www.infokra-
kow.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Tourist Information
Floriaska Gate
special B
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WHAT TO SEE
99
WHAT TO SEE
Hall, a mad mi x of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothi c, Renais-
sance and Baroque archi tecture, all crammed together
i n a hi ggl edy-pi ggl edy j umbl e of rel i gi ous styl es. The
earl i est par ts of the bui l di ng date from at l east the
11th century, pre-dati ng the Rynek and explai ni ng i ts
seemi ngl y random posi ti on wi thi n i t. St. Adal bert had
his own cul t foll owing at the time, whi ch explains how
i t managed to survi ve. A l ook insi de is well worth i t, not
l east because the fl oor si ts some two metres bel ow the
sur face of the main square. Q Open 07:30-17:00. No
visi ting during mass pl ease.
St. Bernards (Koci
w. Bernardyna) C-5, ul.
Bernardyska 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 16 50, www.bernar-
dyni.com.pl. With most eyes
and cameras pointing towards
Wawel its easy to miss St.
Bernards, a church and mon-
astery founded by St. John of
Capistrano (1386-1456), a
Franciscan priest who made
a name for himself by among
other things encouraging anti-Jewish pogroms. Constructed
in the second half of the 15th century, St. Bernards was
meant as a refuge for those wishing to atone for their sins and
live in accordance to the teachings of St. Francis of Assisi.
Fearing it would be commandeered as a strategic base by
the invading Swedish troops the Poles burnt the church to the
ground in 1655, later rebuilding it in its current baroque style.
The church is currently undergoing renovations and is open
on a Sunday but you are requested not to wander around
with a camera during mass. Q Open Sun 07:00-18:30. No
visiting during mass please.
Guided Tours
St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka) C-3, Pl.
Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 05 21, www.mariacki.
com. Tartar invasions of the 13th century left the original
church in a heap of ruins and construction began on St.
Marys using the existing foundations. It doesnt matter
how many times you see it, the altarpiece, stained glass
windows of the nave, and the blue, starred ceiling will take
your breath away. The magnificent altarpiece was for 12
painstaking years the principal work of the 15th century
German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz), and depicts the
Virgin Marys Quietus among the apostles. Surrounding the
altar are polychrome paintings by Matejko, Mehoffer and
Wyspiaski. Several local legends are attached to St. Marys.
The architect of the smaller tower murdered his brother (thw
architect of the taller), apparently jealous that his structure
was shorter and less elaborate. Racked with guilt he then
committed suicide by throwing himself off the roof of the
cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is home to one of
Krakws most enduring traditions. The bugle call played on
the turn of every hour apparently takes its origins from an
event in 1241. Having spotted invading Tartar forces on the
horizon, a lone fireman started playing his trumpet to alert the
habitants of Krakw. He was shot with an arrow in his neck,
abruptly cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town was
roused from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of this
event, seven local firemen now have task of tooting the tune
every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates
back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed the
whole custom was invented by an American in 1929. QOpen
11:45 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 6/3z.
St. Marys Basilica
AB City Tours ul. Kociuszki 49, tel. (+48) 12 427
27 57, www.abcitytour.pl. Their large fleet of electron-
ic golf-carts zips tired-footed tourists around all the sights
in town, while informational audio recordings explain
Krakws history in English, Polish, Spanish, German,
French, Italian, Norwegian, Hungarian, Japanese, Dutch,
Russian and Portuguese. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Y
Agnieszka Sababady tel. (+48) 600 21 24 98,
www.krakowguide.pl. The history, culture and legends
of Krakw and the area with an English- and German-
speaking licenced guide and interpreter. Personal recom-
mendations available. Q Prices negotiable.
Cool Tour Company C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48)
12 430 20 34, www.cooltourcompany.com. Major
sights, history of Poland and a lot of fun included in an
entertaining walk with professional guides. Meet at St.
Adalberts (the tiny church on Rynek Gwny) at 10:00
and 14:00. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00.
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12
421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.com. The best value
trip to Auschwitz on offer. Also at ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, 12
421 13 27, Open 09:00-21:00). QOpen 08:15 - 19:00. Y
Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12
430 07 26, www.cracowtours.pl. Variety of tour pack-
ages including city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines
and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 500 09
12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising in communist
themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Sendzimir Steelworks.
Experience Stalins gift to Krakow - one of the worlds only
centrally planned cities - in a genuine Eastern Bloc Trabant
601 automobile. Q Communism Tour 129z per person.
Discover Cracow C-2, Pl. Mariacki 7, tel. (+48)
519 40 41 74, www.diyguide.pl. Explore Krakw on
your own with this DIY audio guide. This sightseeing
programme plays through an iPod and headphones,
allowing tourists to learn the history and legends of
over 87 points in the city at your own pace. Pick up the
application at their office or at other locations on (C-4)
ul. Grodzka 28-30, (C-3) Rynek Gwny 1 and (C-3) Rynek
Gwny 7. All open 10:00 - 20:00. QOpen 11:30 - 17:30.
Horse-drawn Carriage Rides C-3. Carriages are hired
on the market square or May Rynek and rides generally cost
250z/hr, 175z/30min. Routes are individually determined.
Marco der Pole C-4, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48)
12 430 21 31, www.krakow-travel.com. A well-
seasoned outfit with an info office at Plac Mariacki 3,
Marco der Polo organises daily walking tours, regional
daytrips and tailor-made programs for adult and school
groups. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Tourist Guide Association (Stowarzysze-
nie Przewodnikw Turystycznych - Krakw)
tel. (+48) 725 72 52 00, www.guide-cracow.pl.
These well-connected linguists can help you find and
book tours of Krakw in English, Czech, French, Spanish,
Portuguese, Italian, Dutch, Swedish, German, Polish,
Russian, Slovak and Serbo-Croatian.
Churches
Theres hardly a resident of Krakw who doesnt have a
church for a neighbour. While the number of churches,
cathedrals and monasteries in the city is almost end-
less, weve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the
most remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch here.
All of these places of worship are still active to varying
degrees, so please be respectful and try not to visit
during services.
Holy Trinity Church (Koci w. Trjcy) C- 4, ul.
Stolarska 12, tel. (+48) 12 423 16 13. Built in 1250
by Dominican friars from Bologna, the church lost many
of its treasures when it was gutted by fire back in 1850.
Rebuilt in 1872 this huge structure is now an important
evangelical centre. The image of Our Lady of the Rosary,
found inside the Rosary chapel, is said to have healing
powers. QOpen 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:00. No
SS Peter & Pauls Church (Koci w. Piotra i
w. Pawa) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350
63 65, www.apostolowie.pl. Krakws premier Jesuit
Church was built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples
standing on the gates outside are its most striking feature,
although the interior has been extensively renovated and
the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building
is now evident. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.
No visiting during mass please.
St. Adalberts (Koci w. Wojciecha) C- 3,
Rynek G wny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.
kosciolwojciecha.pl. Krakws ol dest church si ts not
unlike a l ost orphan at the southeast corner of the Cl oth

Jakub Haun
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101
WHAT TO SEE
Museums
Krakw is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours
and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration
can strike visitors as willfully eccentric, until one stops to
consider how much patience and care - and how little capital
- is invested to maintain such high standards. It is for this
reason that philanthropic visitors may even see fit to throw an
extra zoty into the collection box. Alternatively, cheapskates
and paupers should note that all branches of the National
Museum are free on Sundays. The museums listed here are
in the Old Town, while Kazimierz and Podgrze museums are
listed in their respective sections of the guide.
19th Century Polish Art Gallery C-3, Cloth Hall, Rynek
Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 424 46 03, www.muzeum.krakow.
pl. Open again after a lengthy closure, the magnificent 19th
Century Polish Art Gallery is better than ever. Comprising four
separate spaces above the Cloth Hall, the works on display
cover painting in Poland throughout most of that century and
beyond. Of particular interest although by no means inclusive
are the Italian-born, Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarellis Portrait
of Stanisaw August Poniatowski in Coronation Dress from
around 1790 and, a century on, Wadysaw Podkowiskis Frenzy
from 1894. Other painters of note on display whose works
shouldnt be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski,
Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw Witkiewicz. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z, audioguide 5z.
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtya
(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynaa Karola
Wojtyy) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. John Paul II lived
here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtyla, the young priest with
a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are on show) and later
as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan
doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beautiful
sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among the
items on display, you will find presents to His Holiness from
heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the
attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect
to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Personal guided tours
available or for groups up to 30 people in French, English and
Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket 12z. Guided tours 60z.
Archeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologiczne)
B-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00, www.
ma.krakow.pl. Fresh from a recent boost of cash, Krakws
one-time lacklustre Archaeology Museum has been trans-
formed into something actually worth going to have a look at.
As well as some fine examples of life from Maopolska during
the Stone Age and a brilliant room dedicated to local clothing
from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the museum houses a
permanent collection of artefacts from ancient Egypt includ-
ing some beautiful shrouds, a number of intricately decorated
sarcophagi and some mummified cats. The latter exhibition
is best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide, available when
you buy your ticket. Q Open 09:00-14:00, Thu 14:00-18:00,
Fri , Sun 10:00-14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 7/5z, Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace (Paac Biskupa
Erazma Cioka) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12
429 15 58, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This early 14th
century palace holds two permanent exhibitions of the
National Museum, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th
Centuries and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. As you
could have guessed, both exhibits consist entirely of sacral
Elvis Presley G-4, Al. Elvisa Presleya. One of Krakws
least known, hardest to find and most bizarre monuments, this
tribute to the King is a pilgrimage worth making. Though located
on an avenue named in his honour, its little more than a foot-
path into the beguiling woods of Zakrzwek and the picturesque
quarry that lies beyond. A large standing stone with Elvis face
set in it and half-submerged in silicon, this seemingly wacky act
of randomness is an in-all-seriousness tribute from the Krakw
Elvis fan club. Recently the Kings hair was spray-painted blue
and he can usually be found in the company of artificial flowers.
The perfect occassion for an outing, youll find Elvis by depart-
ing Al. Gen. Zieliskiego for ul. Zielna, somewhere near where it
meets ul. Pietrusiskiego (G-4) on the map in the back of this
guide; where the road ends youll find the King.
Grunwald Monument (Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1, Pl.
Matejki. The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint
armies of Poland and Lithuania against the Teutonic Knights
on July 15, 1410, is considered to be one of the greatest
battles ever to take place in medieval Europe. A defining
moment in Polish history, the battle was immortalised in
Krakw with the unveiling of this weighty monument in front
of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary
of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulskis (1877-1919) original
masterpiece was, not surprisingly, destroyed by the occupy-
ing Nazis during WWII and the copy that now stands in its
place dates from 1976, having been faithfully reproduced
using sketches and models of the original. At the top on his
horse is the Lithuanian king of Poland Wadysaw Jagieo, his
sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his
cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked
on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The
dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic
Orders Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.
St. Francis Basilica (Bazylika w. Franciszka)
C- 4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422
53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Our favourite church
in Krakw thanks to the gorgeous interior Art Nouveau
murals by native son Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely
balance the organic and geometric with unique florals pat-
terns that make this the most colourful place of worship
in the city. Wyspiaski also made the eight stained-glass
windows around 1895, including the controversial and
iconic centerpiece, God the Father in the Act of Creation.
Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis Basilica was
the first brick building in the city and is well worth pop-
ping in, even for those who could care less for looking at
another church. Q Open 09:45-16:15, Sun 13:15-16:15.
No visiting during mass please.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C- 3, Rynek Gwny. One of the
most i mpor tant statues i n Pol and, the l arge l i keness
of the romanti c poet and nati onal hero Adam Mi ck-
i ewi cz (1798-1855) was ori gi nal l y unvei l ed i n 1898
to cel ebrate the centenar y of the great mans bi r th,
and, l i ke so many other symbol s of nati onal pri de was
destroyed by the occupyi ng Germans duri ng WWI I .
The statue that stands i n the Rynek today i s a 1955
copy of Teodor Rygi ers ori gi nal , and i s a popul ar and
easi l y recogni sabl e meeti ng pl ace. Li thuani an-born
Mi cki ewi cz (whos most famous work, Pan Tadeusz
begi ns wi th the words Li thuani a, my countr y! and
who i s known and l oved by the Li thuani ans as Adomas
Mi ckevi i us) never vi si ted Krakw unti l 35 years af ter
hi s death. Hi s body l i es at rest i n the Cathedral cr ypts
j ust down the road at Wawel .
art from before the idea of art was applied to non-religious
subject matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most
of it came directly out of Krakws own churches or others
in the region, and most of it is admittedly superb, if thats
your thing. If its not, its a bit of a snoozefest. The highlight
is without doubt the strange 16th century Christ Riding a
Donkey, a near li fe-size wooden sculpture of everyones
favourite model doing just that with vacant eyes and the
mule atop a wagon. Eerily beautiful. Note that at the time of
going to press the Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic
exhibition was temporarily closed for renovations. Its hoped
to be open again in January but isnt guaranteed. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket
24z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Muse-
um) B-3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07,
www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Jagiellonian University is the third
oldest university in Europe, founded by King Kazimierz the
Great in 1364. Its picturesque courtyard ranks as one of the
most beautiful of the city. An amiable English-speaking guide
will take you on a 45-minute tour of the Treasury, Assembly
Hall, Library and Common Room. Along the way, you will see
the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. It was in
1492 that astronomer Nicolas Copernicus began his studies
at the Jagiellonian, developing his own theories about which
way the world spins. You need to call or visit in advance to
book a place on the English-language tour, which takes place
Monday through Friday at 13:00. Q Open 10:00-15:00, Sat
10:00-15:10. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before
closing. Admission 12/6z for permanent exhibit, 16/12z for
entire museum (including gallery and scientific instruments)
or tour. Got all that?.
102
WHAT TO SEE
103
WHAT TO SEE
Geology Museum (Muzeum Geologiczne) C- 4,
ul. Senacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 19 10, www.ing.
pan.pl. One ti ny room gi ven over to the provi si on of
information about the rocks and geol ogi cal structures
in the Krakw region. Featuring a few glass cases full
of rocks and crystals wi th Polish explanations, i ts not
exactl y going to bl ow you away, but i ts ni ce enough as a
brief interlude all the same, and theyve also thoughtfull y
provi ded a brochure in English to help demysti fy what
is a specialist subj ect to say the l east. QOpen 10:00 -
15:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Cl osed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
Admission 4/3z. Last Sat of each month entrance free.
Groups by prior arrangement.
Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitw) C- 3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.
pl. The Hi pol i ts were a merchant fami l y who l i ved
i n thi s fi ne bui l di ng around the end of the 16th and
begi nni ng of the 17th centuri es, al though the bui l di ng
dates back consi derabl y fur ther than that. The i nsi de
has been transformed i nto a seri es of recreati ons of
typi cal Pol i sh bourgeoi s houses from the 17th to the
earl y 20th centur y, and i s i nteresti ng for the i nsi ghts
i t gi ves i nto how the other hal f l i ved as wel l as bei ng a
showcase for some trul y remarkabl e furni ture. Hi ghl y
recommended. Q Open 09: 00-16: 00, Thu 12: 00-
19: 00. Cl osed Mon, Tue. Cl osed ever y 2nd Sunday of
the month. Last entrance 30 mi nutes before cl osi ng.
Admi ssi on 7/5z, Wed free.
History Museum (Muzeum Historyczne) C- 3,
Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 00, www.
mhk.pl. Establ i shed i n 1899, Krakws superb Hi story
Museum charts the trade, cul ture, pol i ti cs and dai l y l i fe
of the ci ty from 1257 unti l the end of the Second Re-
publ i c i n 1939. Unfortunatel y the 17th-century bui l di ng
i ts housed i n conti nues to undergo renovati on works,
meani ng the permanent gal l ery i s cl osed. Currentl y you
can enj oy the annual exhibi tion of Szopki, the tradi tional
Krakow Chri stmas Cri bs. You can al so vi si t the Greater
Krakw - Greater Opportuni ti es 1910-2010 exhi bi ti on,
an i ntri gui ng show hi ghl i ghti ng ef forts to grow the ci ty
over the l ast century or so. Both run unti l February 28,
2011. There are no exhi bi ti ons i n March whil e new ones
are set up. Q Szopki exhi bi ti on. Open 09:00-18:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00-19:00. Last entrance 30 mi nutes before
cl osi ng. Greater Krakw - Greater Opportuni ti es 1910-
2010 exhibi tion. Open 09:00-16:00, Thu 10:00-17:00.
Cl osed Mon, Tue. Szopki exhi bi tion. Admission 8/6z,
famil y ti cket 16z. Greater Krakw - Greater Opportu-
ni ti es 1910-2010 exhi bi ti on. Admi ssi on 6/4z, fami l y
ti cket 12z. Y
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum
Historii Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego)
H-1, ul. Jzef itw 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32,
www.mhf.krakow.pl. Allegedly Polands only museum
dedicated exclusively to photography, this recently reno-
vated museum is a real gem for fans of the art form and
features some interesting exhibi ts. Laid out in several
cupboard-size rooms that also play host to a series of
changing photographic exhibitions (the current one being
a retrospective by Krystyna yczywek), an old darkroom,
heaps of ancient cameras and a nice collection of histori-
cal images of Krakw. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Mon, Tue admission for
groups of minimum 5 people only. Reservations must be
made 7 days in advance. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/5z, Sun free. Groups of 5-25 people
3z per person. Y
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3,
ul. Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Jan Matej ko was an hi stori cal
painter whose work and li fe is honoured in the house where
he was born, and would eventually die in the 1890s. As
well as some witty imaginings of Krakw medieval li fe,
studi es for gargoyl es and coll ecti ons of Renaissance
furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of
Matejkos li fe is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses
in this recently renovated museum. This is a fascinating
tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many
parts. Those with a special interest in Matejko may want
to visit his workshop and manor house in Nowa Huta (see
Nowa Huta Museums). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Last ticket sold 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16 z. Sun free for
permanent exhibitions. Y
Jzef Mehof fer House (Dom Jzefa Mehof -
fera) A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 370 81
86, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Mehof fer was one of
the turn of the 19th centurys arti sti c el i te, a ski l l ed
stained-glass artist collaborating wi th Wyspaski on the
i nteri ors of numerous Krakw churches and i mportant
bui l di ngs. Thi s, hi s house, was where the ar ti sts of
the Moda Pol ska ( Young Pol and) movement often met
and i s a del i ght to vi si t, fi l l ed wi th el egant furni shi ngs,
Art Deco to i mpressi oni st-era art and many sketches,
desi gns and fi ni shed stai ned gl ass pi eces that attest
to hi s i mportant arti sti c l egacy. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Cl osed Mon. Last entrance 30 mi nutes before cl osi ng.
Admi ssi on 6/3z, fami l y ti cket 12z. Sun free for perma-
nent exhi bi ti ons. Y
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.krakow.pl. This modern build-
ing was created by legendary Polish film director Andrzej
Wajda, a native of Krakow who saw the private collection
of Feliks Jasieski exhibited during WWII. Upon winning the
Kyoto city prize in 1987, Wajda donated the US$340,000
grant for the construction of the museum. The 6,500 piece
collection that so entranced him is part of the museum
but after many years on display it has made way for a new
temporary exhibition entitled Japan with tatami under
your feet. Spread over 4 rooms each reflecting one of
the four seasons, see traditional Japanese wooden toys,
musical instruments, costumes as well as a film about
li fe in the modern Japan. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
15/10z, family ticket 25z, group ticket 60z, Tue free.
Guided tours 100z.
National Museum in Krakw (Muzeum Narodowe
w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 295
55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Far from being the
shoeless peasants many cynical historians would have us
believe, previous generations of Poles have in actual fact
excelled in the arts. The superb National Museum of Art
in Krakw showcases many such examples of their work.
As well as a number of world-class temporary shows, the
museum also houses fine collections of Polish applied arts
and weaponry and gives its entire top floor over to the
permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition, a truly awe-
some collection - showcasing the works of such visionaries
as Kantor, Wyspiaski and Witkacy - that any gallery would
be more than proud of owning. The museum also houses a
small bookshop and Tribecca caf. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/5z, audioguide 5z. Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
Ry n ek Un d er -
gr ound (Podzi -
emia Rynku) C-3,
Rynek G wny 1,
tel. (+48) 12 426 50
04, www.podziemi-
arynku.com. Opened
in a blaze of publicity
in September 2010,
the 38z mi l l i on hi -
tech museum, which is the first of its kind in Poland, is
subtitled In the Footsteps of Krakws European Identity
and is laid out as a journey in time in which visitors can
not only see the past but feel it as well thanks to the
inclusion of a battalion of touch-sensitive screens.
Approximately four metres under the squares surface
and mostly taking up a space that was once a series
of underground stalls from a predecessor to todays
Cloth Hall, the 6,000-square metre museum follows the
path of the citys history from the first settlers in the
region right up to the death of Pope John Paul II on April
2, 2005 a few months before the original archaeologi-
cal dig began. After negotiating the scrum thats the
combined ticket office and cloakroom, visitors enter
the main exhibition space via a film projected on a wall
of smoke and subsequently follow a clockwise trail that
takes in some truly remarkable exhibits placed in their
original surroundings.
Relying heavily on screens and holograms, permanent
exhibition highlights include displays of trade in the city,
transport and a fascinating look into life in Krakw before
it received its charter the very same year the Main Market
Square was laid out. The museum cleverly combines
modern technology with original artefacts, among them
the remains of an 11th-century cemetery, the so-called
Wielka Waga (Large Scales) uncovered during the dig
and comprising equipment used for weighing lead and
copper from Romania in the Middle Ages (note this is not
due to be open to the public until June 2011), and the
skeleton of a horses head.
Those used to more tradi ti onal museums wi l l be
pleased to know theres still plenty of reality among
the virtual exhibits including the usual array of coins,
clothing and other earthly remains. In addition to the
touch-screens, which proved hugely popular when we
went round, are audio guides in English, German, French
and Spanish, and a caf plus two shops selling food and
souvenirs respectively at the end of the circuit. Before
you arrive there make a point of taking a look at the
series of short, subtitled documentaries covering di f-
ferent ages of Krakows history which can be found in
the passage to the right before you head towards the
exit into the cafe area.
Expecting some 300,000 visitors annually, Rynek Under-
ground is limited to 300 people at a time and is proving
very popular with sometimes massive queues of people
allowed in at 30-minute intervals. To avoid waiting, tick-
ets can be bought in advance online and shown at the
door. Find the entrance towards the northeast corner of
the Cloth Hall facing St. Marys Basilica. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed every first Tuesday
of the month. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing.
Admission 13/10z, Mon free.
Rynek Underground
Palace of the Arts (Pa ac Sztuki) B- 2, Pl.
Szczepaski 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 66 16. This gorgeous
Art Nouveau buildings exterior depicts the highs and lows of
the creative process, with a few famous Poles incorporated
in. The interior is a whitewashed setting for regularly chang-
ing exhibits of Polish contemporary art. More a gallery than
a museum, this ones easy to miss. QOpen 08:15 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/4z.
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2,
ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Located inside a wonderful 15th-
century building, Krakws brilliant Pharmacy Museum is
laid out on several floors and includes all manner of exhibits
from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops
to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really
good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of inter-
est is the small exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and
brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. QOpen 10:00 - 14:30, Tue
12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before
closing. Admission 9/6z.
Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa
Polskiego) Al. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12
642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Until recently this
magnificent museum was little more than a place of marginal
interest to flight enthusiasts, most of them from Poland. With
the help of just under 46z million though, this is all set to
change. The aforementioned fortune has been spent on a
brand new, propeller-shaped building on four floors, bursting
with hi-tech goodies including a cinema and an interactive
space for children alongside a library, museum shop and a
collection of planes including a marvellous Blriot XI dating
from 1909 and a Polish-built RWD from the 1930s. Consider-
ing some 80 per cent of the financing came from the EU its a
little bit disappointing to see that most of the displays are in
Polish only, but dont let that put you off too much. The rest
of the museum remains intact, including hangars and build-
ings containing some remarkable machines, plus uniforms,
photographs and even a complete Spitfire with Polish mark-
ings. The outdoor section (the museum is located on an old
airfield) is littered with aircraft including several Russian-built
fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw Pact. All in all, the
entire ensemble provides exactly the kind of entertainment
and education a museum should provide, and can take up
literally hours of time wandering around. Way out of the city
centre on the way to Nowa Huta, take tram N 4, 5, 9, 10,
15 or 40 or bus N124 or 424 and get off at the AWF stop.
A taxi if called in advance should coast around 25z each
way. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Y
Wyspiaski Museum (Muzeum Wyspiaskiego)
B-2, ul. Szczepaska 11, tel. (+48) 12 292 81 83, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Dedicated to the beautiful works of
Stanislaw Wyspiaski (1869-1907), Krakws foremost Art
Nouveau artist and one of the citys most celebrated sons.
Of particular interest are the sketches and paintings of his
children, the designs for the stained glass windows of the St.
Francis Basilica and the model of Wawel Hill transformed into
a Polish Acropolis. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/4z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
richardschofieldphotography.com
104
105
THE POPE TOUR THE POPE
The death of the first non-Italian Pontiff in over 400 years on
April 2, 2005 plunged Poland into national mourning. Wawel
Cathedrals Sigismund Bell sounded for the first time in a
quarter of a century and bars and clubs across the country
closed their doors as a mark of respect. Tributes from world
leaders poured in and flags up and down the country were
draped with black ribbons. Despite being born some 50km
to the southwest of Krakw, the city remains the spiritual
home of the man born plain Karol Jzef Wojtya who became
better known to the world as Pope John Paul II.
Early Years
Born on May 18, 1920 in the small town of Wadowice, Karol
Wojtyas rise through the ranks of the Catholic Church was
swift and surprising. Charismatic and at times unconventional,
his hands-on approach saw him circle the world 27 times in
pursuit of his vision of bringing together people of all faiths. An
often embarrassing thorn in the side of Polands communist
regime, his influence is often cited as one of the key reasons
behind the rise of Solidarity and the subsequent fall of com-
munism in the late 1980s. The second of two surviving children
born to Emilia Kaczorowska, a school teacher, and Karol
Wojtya, an administrative officer in the Polish army, Wojtya
was left without any immediate family at just 21. His mother
died in 1929 when he was nine, His elder brother Edmund, an
established doctor, died three years later after contracting
scarlet fever from one of his patients and, shortly after mov-
ing to Krakw just before the outbreak of the Second World
War, his father died, leaving him with only distant relatives
on his mothers side, and, so some argue, a hankering for a
new family which he eventually found in the Catholic Church.
In Krakw
In 1938 Karol Wojtya graduated from High School in Wado-
wice and immediately enrolled on the Polish Studies course
at Krakws Jagiellonian University, moving into Spartan
quarters with his father at ul. Tyniecka 10, just across from
the Grunwald Bridge where a plaque honours the fact in the
basement. In those days he was known more as a sports
fanatic and outdoor type rather than for his religious beliefs,
excelling as a swimmer, skier and adept goalkeeper. After a
brief spell of military training in anticipation of the German
invasion of Poland in September 1939, Wojtya spent his
days cutting stone at the Zakrzwek quarry and his nights
studying theology after becoming inspired and enlightened
by the Catholic layman and youth leader Jan Tyranowski. A
continuing interest in the Arts also saw him writing poetry and
performing in the Studio 38 underground theatre company in
strict defiance of Nazi edicts. Shortly after his fathers death, in
1942 he began clandestine seminary studies run by Cardinal
Adam Stefan Sapieha, the Archbishop of Krakw. After the
war he resumed his studies until his ordination as a priest on
November 1, 1946. Wojtya heard Mass every morning at the
Church of St. Stanisaw Kostka at ul. Konfederacka 6. He would
preach his second Mass there on November 3, 1946, the
day after he had delivered his first in the Crypt of St. Leonard,
underneath Wawel Cathedral. Shortly after, Wojtya travelled
to Rome to complete his doctorate in theology where he also
ministered to Polish immigrants and refugees. Appointed as
auxiliary bishop of Krakw on July 4, 1958 at the age of just
38, Polands youngest bishop spent the next five years living
at ul. Kanonicza 19, now the citys Archdiocesan Museum.
His final Krakw home where he lived from 1963 until his ap-
pointment as Pope was the Bishops Palace, adjacent to St.
Francis Basilica at ul. Franciszkaska 3. He became a cardinal
in 1967 and, in what was seen as a shock appointment, was
elected the 263rd Pope on October 16, 1978.
Communism
Wojtyas nomination to Archbishop in 1958 was originally
supported by the Communist Party of Poland, who initially
saw him as a benign character. However it wasnt long
before he became a cause for concern. While never directly
appealing for rebellion, his congregation recognised the dual
meaning in expressions like Christs truth and freedom
under God. In 1979, a year after assuming the papacy and
the name of John Paul II, he returned to Poland in what is
commonly regarded as the pivotal point in the downfall of the
communist system. He preached 32 sermons across Poland
in nice days, and created what has been called in some circles
a psychological earthquake. His brief return offered hope
and unity to the Poles, lighting a flame that later exploded
into the Solidarity revolution. An assassination attempt in
1981, rumoured to be the work of a KGB/Stasi plot, did little
to shake his faith, and he later visited and forgave his Turkish
assailant. His final visit to Krakw in 2002 will live long in the
memory of many locals, culminating in a massive outdoor
sermon that drew a staggering crowd of 2.5 million people.
Upon his passing, Pope John Paul II left a lasting legacy, not
least in his work to combat world poverty, his fierce criticism
of armed conflict and his commitment to bringing the Church
back to the masses.
Pope Tour
Before he was elected to the Papacy and became Pope John
Paul II, Karol Wojtya spent the better part of 60 years living
in and around Krakw. Remembered among other things for
his boundless energy, its safe to say he visited an awful lot
of places in the region prior to 1978, a great many of them
particularly special to him and together worthy of a book of
some considerable size for the connoisseur that space here
doesnt allow. Surplus to the major Pope-related sights in
Krakw already covered in this guide are a handful of other
places of interest outside the city centre. The following three,
which can all be visited easily within a day, are considered the
most representative and are as a rule all included as part of
the scores of Pope tours offered in Krakw by many of the
companies listed in our Tour Guides section
John Paul IIs Family House (Dom Rodzinny Ojca
witego Jana Pawa II) ul. Kocielna 7, Wadowice,
tel. (+48) 33 823 26 62. Located some 50km southwest of
Krakw, the small town of Wadowice features a population of
around 20,000 and is fairly unremarkable beyond the fact that
it was here on May 18, 1920 that the future Pope John Paul
II was born, an event thats turned the otherwise sleepy mu-
nicipality into a major place of pilgrimage complete with tacky
tourist trappings. Everything of interest revolves around the
towns small central square, the appropriately named Plac Jana
Pawa II, including John Paul IIs Family House (Dom Rodzinny
Ojca witego Jana Pawa II), now a museum dedicated to
the great mans life and work. Comprising the original three
rooms that made up the Wojtyas apartment as well as an
extension, the items on display include relics from John Paul
IIs life, countless photographs and a wooden crib inside the
room he was born in. Next to the house stands Virgin Marys
Offertory Minor Basilica (Bazylika Mniejsza Ofiarowania
Najwitszej Maryi Panny), a rather splendid 15th century
structure renovated in the 18th and the site of Karol Wojtyas
Baptism on June 20, 1920. Inside is a chapel dedicated to him
as well as a likeness in the form of a rather bizarre-looking
wooden statue. John Paul II had a remarkably sweet tooth.
During his 1999 visit to Wadowice he made a passing remark
on his fondness for kremwka, a local cream cake he used to
buy in the towns Karol Hagenhuber confectionery shop at the
other side of the square thats now a bank. The locals went
wild for his comment and just about every shop in Wadowice,
regardless of whether it sells food or not, now sells slices of
kremwka for the delectation of the towns visitors. The house
is temporarily closed for renovation. A temporary exhibition
is open in Dom Katolicki on ul. Kocielna The renovation work
is expected to last until late 2012. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon Admission 5/2z, family ticket 8z.
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska ul. Bernardyska 46, Kal-
waria Zebrzydowska, tel. (+48) 33 87 66 304, www.
kalwaria.eu. The story behind the foundation of Polands
first and Europes largest Calvary, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska
Park, is as incredulous as it is unpronounceable. Located
mid-way between Krakw and Wadowice just off the road
to the latter, the story begins with the wife of Mikoaj Zebrzy-
dowski (1553-1620), Voivode (Governor) of Krakw who had
a vision of three burning crosses on the very hill the park is
now located. In recognition of Mrs. Zebrzydowskis powers a
series of over 40 Baroque churches and chapels dedicated
to several faiths were built on the site at the beginning of the
17th century by none other than her husband. The crowning
glory is the marvellous Baroque St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika
Matki Boej Anielskiej), the first building to be constructed
and the work of the Giovanni Maria Bernardoni and Paolo
(or Paul) Baudarth. Completed in 1609 the church is part of
a larger complex including a Franciscan monastery, simple
accommodation for the thousands of pilgrims who flock here
every year and the Calvary itself. A UNESCO World Heritage
site since 1999, several routes are available for those wanting
to follow it. Connections with the late John Paul II are manifold.
The park was one of his favourite places, and he visited the site
on countless occasions to relax during his life. Q Pilgrimage
times 09:00-17:00. Church open 06:00-18:00. Sun 06:00-
20:00. The pilgrimage route is a 7km path going through the
forest. While you will find English, German and Italian priests
available as guides in season currently only Polish priests are
able to cater for groups of 15 and above. To organise a guide
call 33 876 63 04. Guides are free but donations are welcome.
Sanctuary of Divine Mercy (Sanktuarium Boego
Miosierdzia) ul. w. Siostry Faustyny 3 (agiewniki),
tel. (+48) 12 263 60 64, www.milosierdzie.pl. The final
destination, located in the southern suburbs of Krakw and
an immensely important place in the late Popes life, the
Sanctuary of Divine Mercy in the district of agiewniki is a
new church standing on a larger site including a 19th-century
convent where Karol Wojtya visited to pray daily during the
War. The place is most famous for being a place of pilgrim-
age for followers of an obscure, semi-literate nun and mystic,
Faustyna Kowalska (1905-1938) who saw a vision of Christ
on the evening of February 22, 1931. In it, Jesus appeared
with red and white shafts of life emanating from his heart, an
image known as the Divine Mercy and that is supposed to
have miraculous healing properties. The small church inside
the convent contains a fragment of bone from the body of
Faustyna and is a major site of pilgrimage for Catholics all over
the country. The new church, known as the Sanctuary of Divine
Mercy (Sanktuarium Boego Miosierdzia) was consecrated by
the Pope during his visit to Poland in 2002. Faustyna herself
was beatified on April 18, 1993 and eventually canonised
on April 30, 2000. Attached to the church is a tower offering
superb views of the city including the nearby construction site
of the new yet still incomplete John Paul II Centre. The tower
is free to visit although donations are appreciated and will go
towards the decoration of the interior of the Sanctuary. Q
Basilica and viewing tower Open 08:30-17:30, Eternal adora-
tion chapel Open 24hrs although St. Faustynas tomb is only
open 06:30-21:00. No visiting during mass please. Admission
to viewing tower free (donations welcome).
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska Park model.
Kalwaria Zebrzydowska Park
Tourist Information ul. w. Siostry Faustyny 3
(agiewniki), tel. (+48) 12 263 60 64, www.infokra-
kow.pl. On-site English speaking tourist information
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Tourist information
106
107
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the
hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in
Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not
least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish
version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster
Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predomi-
nantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture
dating from around the 14th century onwards, visiting Krakw
and not seeing Wawel is like playing tennis without a ball.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that cant fail to
inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which
the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibi-
tions, Wawels must-see highlights include the Cathedrals
mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of Polands very
own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather
permi tting, a leisurel y stroll around i ts courtyards and
gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawels
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to
the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard
work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day.
Castle
Wawels prominence as a centre of political power predates
the building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD.
Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified
castle before Polands first ruler, Miesco I (circa 965-992)
chose Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish
king crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Wadysaw
the Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a
tradition that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned
there up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the
Castle as a residence, and all of them added their own ar-
chitectural details to the building. The moving of the capital
to Warsaw in 1596 and Polands subsequent decline and
partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair.
The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and
even went so far as to demolish several buildings including
a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw
the Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with
WAWEL
the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to this
day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously
when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi
Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupa-
tion of WWII. Todays Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of
styles including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic
and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colon-
nades is a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures
contained within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful
status as a truly world-class city.
Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel.
(+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny
i Zbrojownia) Containing among many splendid treats
Polands very own equivalent of the Crown Jewels, the Crown
Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the
world of the sumptuous, extravagant and the just plain violent.
To the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass cases
of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other
wonders, of which the Szczerbiec, the countrys original coro-
nation sword, is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury
contains a frightening array of spiky pikes, wonderment of
weapons including some exceedingly swanky crossbows, and
in the cellar a collection of cannons and replicas of the banners
captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Q From February 15 open
09:30-16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before
closing. Note that this part of Wawel will be closed on Sunday
February 20 and Sunday March 27. Admission 15/8z, Sun free.
Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony) Thi s smar tl y
conceived and executed exhibit presents the remaining
fragments of medieval Wawel, including remnants of the Ro-
tunda of the Virgin Mary (Krakws first church). A computer
generated model of Wawel gives visitors a peek to the early
10th century construction. Q Open 09:30-16:00, Sun 10:00-
16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Admission 7/4z, Sun free for selected exhibitions for indi-
vidual visitors. Check ticket office for details and for tickets.
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments
(Reprezentacyjne Komnaty & Prywatne Aparta-
menty Krlewskie) Two collections in one, of which the
latter is only accessible on a specially conducted guided tour,
these are the rooms in which the royals once lived and did their
entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go on for-
ever, and are full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century
Flemish tapestries, some truly extraordinary wallpaper and
the breathtaking Bird Room. Highlights include the eerie Royal
Audience Hall, complete with 30 wooden representations of
former Krakw residents heads on the coffered ceiling and the
Hall of Deputies, still with an original throne that really brings the
majesty of Polands past to life. The Royal Private Apartments
are, as one would expect, stunning. Packed with delightful Gothic
and Renaissance details, rooms include the wonderful Guest
Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling
and the 15th-century tapestry, Story of the Knight with the
Swan, Wawels oldest surviving example of the art form, and
the charmingly named Hens Foot, two small rooms inside the
14th-century Belvedere Tower. What these rooms were origi-
nally used for is anyones guess, but the view from the windows
is well worth the visit. Q State Rooms Open 09:30-16:00, Sun
10:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Please note this exhibit is closed for
maintenance from February 28 to March 21. Royal Private
Apartments Open 09:30-16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Please note
this exhibit is closed for maintenance from February 21 to
March 7. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission
to State Rooms 15/8z, Sun free. Royal Private Apartments
20/15z, (guide included).
Cathedral
The scene of the crowning of
almost every Polish king and
queen throughout history, the
current Wawel Cathedral is
the third to be built on the site.
The first cathedral was built of
wood, probably around 1020,
but certainly after the founding
of the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it
was replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt
down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364
and built on the orders of Polands first king to be crowned at
Wawel, Wadysaw the Short (aka. Wadysaw the Elbow-high,
1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred rubble
of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most important
single building in Poland, Wawels extraordinary Cathedral
contains much that is original, although many glorious ad-
ditions have been made over the centuries. Arguably not
as stunning as that of its cousin St. Marys on the Rynek,
the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its
visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history
packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the former
Bishop of Krakw, St. Stanisaw (1030-1079), a suitably
grand monument dedicated to the controversial cleric after
whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all
of them about as ostentatious as youre ever likely to see,
of particular interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy
Cross, found to the right as you enter and featuring some
wonderful Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss 1492 marble
sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a
cold and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of
kings and statesmen - most recently fromer president Lech
Kaczyski - while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of
staircases is the vast, 11 tonne St. Zygmunt Bell - so loud
it can supposedly be heard 50km away.
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne) B-5,
Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-
wawelska.pl. Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtya just before
he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum
features a wealth of religious and secular items dating
from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and
downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable
possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three
pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August
(1548-1572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well
as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias too
boot. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
Royal Crypts (Groby Krlewskie) B-5, Wawel 3, tel.
(+48) 12 429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. While
all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or within
their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral today,
that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I had his
wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He joined
her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th,
17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more
Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children
thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom
itself), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince
Jzef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kociuszko (1818), poets
Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Sowacki (1923), Jzef
Pisudski (1935) and General Wadysaw Sikorski (1993) all
WAWEL
securing themselves a place here. Most recently President
Lech Kaczyski and his wi fe Maria were controversially
interred here after the April tragedy in Smolesk; admission
to their tomb is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral
into the remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th
century St. Leonards Crypt - the best Romanesque interior
in PL; the exit deposits you back outside. QOpen 09:00 -
16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Sigismund Bell (Dzwon Zygmunta) B-5, Wawel 3,
www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Follow the crowds up the many
gruelling flights of Sigismunds Belfry to reach the infamous
Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol of Polish nationalism
ala Philadelphias Liberty Bell. The largest by far of five bells
hanging in the same tower, Sigismunds Bell weighs in at
an astounding 13 tonnes (9630 kgs), measures 241cm in
height, 242cm across at the lip and varies from 7 to 21cm
thick. The bronze beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of
King Sigismund I and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav
and St. Sigismund as well as the coat of arms of Poland
and Lithuania. Rung to this day on religious and national
holidays, as well as significant moments in history (most
recently the funeral of former President Lech Kaczyski
and his wife) the bells peal can be heard 50km away and is
quite an enterprise to ring, requiring the strength of twelve
strong men; a dangerous job, the bell-tollers are actually
lifted from the ground by the force of the bell, resulting in
at least one famous accident when a bell-toller was flung
from the tower to his death during the interwar period. The
entrance to Sigismund Belltower is within the Cathedral and
tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well) are purchased at
the ticket office across from the Cathedrals main entrance.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00.
Upon entering Wawel Cathedral, you may notice an odd
collection of massive bones chained up on the left out-
side the entrance. While legend obviously purports these
to be the bones of Smok Wawelski - Wawels fearsome
dragon - more conventional wisdom has claimed they
might be parts belonging to a blue whale, woolly mam-
moth, rhinoceros, or all three. At any rate, they havent
been removed and inspected for centuries due to their
magical properties, which are credited with protecting the
city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition
and particularly during WWII when almost every other
major city in PL got flattened.
Dragon Bones
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information
B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 697 73 68 63, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle
have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral
can be purchased only in the ticket office directly op-
posite the Cathedral entrance.While entrance to the
actual cathedral itself is free you will need a ticket to
enter the adjoining Royal Crypts and Bell tower. A single
ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum.
Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral Museum
can be rented from the ticket office for 7/5z in Polish,
English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish or French.
QOpen 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 12:30 - 15:30. Tickets cover-
ing the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund
Bell cost 12/7z.
Cathedral Tickets
Wawel Visitor Centre B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets
are timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets
for the exhibition you want to see at least one day before
you visit. Tickets are collected from the Wawel Visitor
Centre in the southwestern corner of the complex (B-5,
ul. Kanonicza entrance) at least 30 minutes before your
reserved tour time. Foreign language guides are available
on request. As well as selling tickets, the Visitor Centre
gives away useful and free Wawel maps. Theres also a
small post office, gift shop and a decent caf/restaurant
and terrace in the same building. Q Visitor Centre Open
09:00-17:00. The ticket office within is open 09:15-
14:45, Sun 09:30-14:45, Closed Mon. If you are collect-
ing pre-booked tickets you should go to the Reservation
Service Office (Biuro Obsugi Rezerwacji), also inside the
Visitor Centre which is open 09:00-15:00, Closed Sun.
Wawel Visitor Centre
108
109
KAZIMIERZ
ished. Kazimierz was finally going places; in 1857 the first
gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot added in 1888
and in 1905 a power station. By 1910 the Jewish population
stood at 32,000, a figure that was to nearly double during the
inter-war years, and a rich cultural life arose around them.
But this was to change with the outbreak of WWII, and the
Nazis monstrous ideas of racial superiority. Approximately
three to five thousand of Krakws Jews survived the horror
of the Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar
Schindler. Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in
Krakw in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon van-
ished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist
authorities sparked waves of emigration to Israel, and by the
1970s signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared. The fall
of communism in 1989 sparked new hope. Kazimierz by this
time had become a bandit suburb, the sort of place youd
only visit with military backup. But investment began trickling
in and the areas decline was reversed; 1988 saw the first
Jewish Festival take place, and five years later the Judaica
Foundation was opened. That was also the year Spielberg
arrived to film Schindlers List, a film that would put Kazimierz
on the world map and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today
a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a trip
to Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and public
regard the area has.
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimierz at the
top of Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). Here
youll find the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long
Ago in Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts
the doorways come adorned with traders names splashed
on them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. Its not hard to feel the
ghosts of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles.
Next door swat up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the
areas first Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka
6 (now Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant). The building
formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that
gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed
and ten women drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of
restaurants to pick from, though you cant do much better
than visiting Rubinstein at number 12. Its named so for a
reason. Queen of Cosmetics Helena Rubinstein was born
next door at number 14.
Take time out to explore the citys two most important syna-
gogues - the Old Synagogue and Remuh Synagogue -
before veering to the right and onto ulica Jzefa. The street
actually takes its name not after Joseph of Bible fame, but
the Habsburg Emperor Joseph II who stayed on this street
while touring his nearly conquered territories. Find the High
Synagogue at number 38, so called because the prayer
room was located on the first floor. Looted during WWII the
KAZIMIERZ
synagogue housed the Historic Monuments Preservation
Studio in the post-war years, only returning to its intended
function in the 1990s. Its also on Jzefa youll find what
many regard to be Krakws most picturesque courtyard.
Accessed via an archway, the cobbled courtyard at num-
ber 12 (D-6) is instantl y recognizable from Spielbergs
Schindlers List.
While on your Kazimierz safari do put aside time to visit the
Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6), whose restored inte-
riors now house a permanent exhibition titled In memory
of Polish Jews. In 1939 a member of the synagogue com-
mittee was executed inside these halls after refusing to set
fire to it. The synagogue is also the source of an enchanting
legend. It relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but impov-
erished Jew who once had a dream telling him i f he went
to Prague he would discover great treasures buried by a
bridge. Following his instincts he set off to Prague, only to
find the bridge he had dreamt of surrounded by a garrison
of soldiers. Having spotted him loitering, one of the soldiers
challenged Isaac as to his intentions. Isaac came clean,
only for the soldier to scoff words to the effect of Youre
an idiot! Ive been having dreams all my li fe about a Krakw
Jew called Isaac who has treasure hidden under his stove.
But Im not stupid enough to go to Krakw, especially see-
ing that every second Jew is called Isaac. You can guess
the rest. The moment Isaac returned home he pulled the
stove down and discovered a wealth of riches, making him
the richest man in Kazimierz.
But Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish. Take for example
the stunning Corpus Christi Church on ul. Boego Ciaa
(D-6/7). Completed in 1405 the 70 metre tower dominates
the horizon, and work through the ages has seen a slew of
intricate details added to both the exteriors and interiors.
Try and track down the tiny church prison in which sinners
who had broken the sixth commandment would be held and
subjected to public ridicule. Also of note is a 15th century
painting, the Madonna Terribilis Daemonibus. Used in exor-
cisms for the last five centuries the canvas is reputed to
have warded off a hundred thousand demons. Sticking to
the ecclesiastical theme stop by Skaka (C-7). Its right by
the altar that Stanisaw, the Bishop of Szczepanw was
murdered and then quartered at the whim of King Bolesaw
the Bold. Stanisaw was later beatified, becoming the patron
saint of Poland, and it became a tradition for Polish Kings
to make the pilgrimage from Wawel to this church in a bid
to compensate for the sins of Bolesaw. A stone allegedly
splattered with the blood of the saint can be viewed close
by. Ghouls will also to be delighted to learn of the crypt,
one of the most high profile in Krakw. Its here youll find
the mortal remains of local heroes Czesaw Miosz and
Stanisaw Wyspiaski.
Plac Nowy D-6. While Krakws main square, Rynek
Gwny, makes all the postcards and photographs, it is
Plac Nowy in Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiritual
centre of Krakw sub-culture. Lacking the splendour of
the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something of an
eyesore - a collection of unkempt buildings surrounding
a concrete square filled with chipped green market stalls
and rat-like pigeons flapping about. If you want something
completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is.

Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having
been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, and its Jewish connections are highlighted by an
oft-encountered local insistence on referring to it as Plac
ydowski (Jewish Square). For over 200 years it has served
as a market place with its central landmark, the round mar-
ket building, being added in 1900. The rotunda was leased
to the Jewish community in 1927 serving as a ritual slaugh-
terhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Following
the war it resumed its role as the centre of the market
around it, a function it still carries today. Apparently its the
only place in Krakw where you can purchase horsemeat,
though savages with unrefined taste will instead be found
lining up outside the dozen or so hole-in-the-wall fast food
hatches that operate from the rotunda. Most legendary of
these is Endzior, a rite-of-passage for any first time visitors
to Kazimierz. Placing their order through the slit-like window
youll find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency
calls on their walkie-talkies, to stick-thin party girls getting
their weeks worth of calories; Kazimierz without Endzior is
like Rome without a coliseum.

Surrounding the Okrglak (rotunda) are some 310 trading
stalls (with 33 more in the smaller square around the corner),
and youll find something going on daily from 5:30am till early
afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and random rubbish are
constant guarantees but weekly highlights include Sundays
clothing market, and Tuesday and Friday mornings bewilder-
ing small critter expo/pigeon fair, the latter of which is a photo
essay waiting to happen. Arrive early to find the answer to
the riddle, How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?

As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new
guise: Krakws premier pub crawl circuit. Find the aca-
demics with beads, beards and secondhand books in
places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Coloures, while
the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia down the road
(ul. Meiselsa) can boast a superb toilet that doubles as
a time portal to the 1920s. Full of shambolic charm, the
square is (sadly?) beginning to diversify to a degree with
glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale and bilenia
paving the way for more recent openings like Taawa - the
first danceclub to open on Plac Nowy.
Sadly plans are now afoot to renovate this historic square
with the controversial winning design already receiving a
rubber-stamp. Shockingly, the numerous market stalls
which have been a part of Plac Nowy since its beginnings
would disappear, a permanent stage would be installed at
one side and parking on the square would be prevented.
While the city has scored successes with similar revitalisa-
tion projects lately, theres nothing flaccid about the fizz of
Plac Nowy and were encouraged to hear that a lack of funds
has delayed the start of the project indefinitely. Still, soak
up the bohemian atmosphere of the area now before its
all swanky cocktail bars and stupefying street performers.
Plac Nowy
Kazimierz is the district that housed Krakws Jews for
over 500 years. Since the 1990s it has been rediscovered,
and its hollowed-out Jewish culture gradually reintroduced.
Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg,
theres more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries
and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and
spanners, youll find the heart of Krakows artsy character.
Peeling faades and wooden shutters hide dozens of cafes,
each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alterna-
tive, edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point
of interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz
the Great. Unlike Krakw, which was largely populated by
Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not
until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Krakw that they
started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its Magdeburg
Rights, which allowed markets to be held in what is now Pl.
Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded as being
one of the most influential Polish towns during the middle
ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing and
numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimi-
erz was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hit
by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined
by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish
riots followed in quick succession, and it wasnt long till a
mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant
Kazimierz a broken shell.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and four years
later Kazimierz was incorporated into Krakw. It was to
signal the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians ordered
Krakws Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and the area was
slowly redeveloped; timber houses were banned, streets
were cobbled and walls that once ringed Kazimierz demol-
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Krakws most forgotten
square, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to
salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once
was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of
the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of
free trade) covers only a small fragment of the squares
original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to sur-
vive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs incorporation into
Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local
Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-
Renaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it
has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum.
Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jew-
ish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed
Kazimierzs revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica
has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons and
drunken derelicts. That all looks set to change however,
with more cafs and restaurants opening around its
edges and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz
with Podgrze over the river to the south.
Plac Wolnica
ulica Szeroka
Skaka
110
111
Olympia Galeria D-6, ul. Jzefa 18, tel. (+48) 603 22
30 08, www.olympiagaleria.pl. Brimming with interesting
contemporary art. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00, Thu 17:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free.
Museums & Synagogues
City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12
421 12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Evidence that Polish
museums are finally catching up with the modern world,
this charming museum inside an old tram depot features
four separate exhibitions. The first two deal with the history
of public transport in Krakw and the development of the
Polish automotive industry in the form of a large collection
of unique vehicles (including the Popemobile!), the third
explores the history of printing in Krakw from the 15th to
20th centuries, while the fourth - called the Fun & Science
exhibition - is a bizarre assortment of interactive displays
aimed at kids about such things as electricity and hydro-
statics. Great for families and more fun than it sounds, the
science exhibit will hold kids interest long enough for Dad to
look at car engines, while Mom dreams of escaping on that
motorbike. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/5.5z, family ticket 24z. Y
Ethnographical Museum (Muzeum Etnografic-
zne) D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.
etnomuzeum.eu. Founded in 1911 by the teacher and
folklore enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located
inside Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this cultural highlight
usually gets overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. Theres
not enough space here to wax lyrical about the delights in-
side, including beautiful recreations of 19th-century peasant
houses, folk costumes, some extraordinary examples of the
so-called Nativity Cribs, the breathtaking top floor collection
of folk art and a rather peculiar wooden bicycle. With many
of the exhibits explained in good English, all we need say is it
does a highly commendable job of promoting and explaining
Polish folk culture, and cant come recommended enough. A
separate gallery for changing exhibits can be found nearby at
ul. Krakowska 46. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, Sun free
for permanent exhibitions.
Galicia Jewish Museum (ydowskie Muzeum
Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42,
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. The brainchild of award-
winning photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, The Galicia Jewish
Museum is comprised of some 135 photographs aimed at
keeping alive the memory of Jewish life in the south of Po-
land in the aftermath of the Holocaust. Schwarzs images of
forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps
prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an
essential part of any Kazimierz tour. Though his exhibition
serves as the focal point, the converted warehouse also
houses a caf, information point and a bookstore selling
a range of titles of Jewish interest. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Open until 22:00 the last Friday of every month. Admission
15/8z, family ticket 30z. Children under 7 free. Guided tour
for groups of over 10 people cost 13.50/6z per person.
Tours in English, French and German available. French and
German require prior booking. A guide is also available for
individual tours for 60-100z depending on tour time. Y
Isaacs Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E- 6, ul.
Kupa 18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabad-
krakow.pl. Isaacs Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-
Baroque style, was opened in 1644, and was a gi ft to the
city from a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the
KAZIMIERZ
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 74,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindlers List tours and trips to Auschwitz-
Birkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa
ydowska) D-7, ul. Skawiska 2, tel. (+48) 12 429
57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 160
members and organises events and gatherings for the
Jewish community in Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.
Jewi sh Communi ty Centr e (Centr um
Spoecznoci ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.
org. The headquarters of Krakws surviving and strength-
ening Jewish community. JCC organises numerous events
(check website for calendar) and exhibits, arranges tours,
and is home to a large library of Jewish related materials.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierzs best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Tourist Information D-6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel. (+48) 12
422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Information on what to
see and whats going on in Kazimierz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Useful Contacts
KAZIMIERZ
most strikingly beauti ful of the Kazimierz synagogues, all
arabesques and squiggles yet retaining a sober linearity,
especially within. There is much to admire, not least the
fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary
runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide
information to all comers. Meanwhile a much needed kosher
restaurant has opened on the left side of the building, plus
theres a shop inside selling kosher food, wine and sweets
and well as candlesticks and other related paraphernalia.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 5/3z.
New Jewish Cemetery E-6, ul. Miodowa 55. This
cemetery was established in 1800 and was the burial
ground for many of Krakws distinguished Jews in the 19th
and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect
wi th the decimation of the Jewish population between
1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no
more than memorials to entire families that were killed in
the Holocaust. They now lie surrounded by weeds. The
rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not yet penetrated the New
Cemeterys walls, but there are newly-lit candles burning
over the headstones. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 -
15:00. Closed Sat.
Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka
24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the
cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue
serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious
architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series of exhibits
that showcase the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. It
is no longer a working synagogue. The English explanations
assume no great depth of knowledge on the readers part
and are therefore a perfect primer on the subject. In the
midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah enclosed in an
elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are also temporary
exhibitions held from time to time particularly during the citys
Jewish festival held towards the end of June. The bookshop
sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Krakow,
in a number of languages. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/6z, Mon free. Y
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Re-
muh z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12
429 57 35. The smallest but most active synagogue in Ka-
zimierz, dating from 1553. If you enter quietly, you may even
be afforded a glimpse of a service. You can stroll through the
cemetery which was in use until 1800. This holy burial ground
was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis because many of
the gravestones had been buried to avoid desecration during
the 19th century occupation of Krakw by Austrian forces.
Most famous is the tomb of the 16th century Rabbi Moses
Isserles, better known as the Remuh. Beside that lies the
oldest tomb in the cemetery commemorating his wife, Golda
Auerbuch. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Temple Synagogue (Synagoga Tempel) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35. Kazimierzs
newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later
expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under
Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and
stables, yet survived the war and regular services were even
held here until 1968, before stopping completely a decade
later. Gorgeously restored today, the gilded woodwork within
now plays host to many concerts and occasional religious
ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival
of Culture. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Churches
Corpus Christi Church (Koci Boego Ciaa) D/E-
6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26. This massive brick beauty from the
14th century takes up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it
one of the citys largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic
style, the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast
even) being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there are
few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning glory has
to be the towering golden altarpiece. According to legend, a
robber who had stolen a precious relic from another church
repented on this spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests
in pursuit saw a strange light emanating from the ground and
discovering their sacred prize, founded a church here in rec-
ognition of the miracle. Q Open 08:30- 12:00, 13:00-19:00,
Sun 06:30-20:00. Not visiting during mass please.
Skaka (Koci Paulinw, Pauline Church) C-7,
West end of ul. Skaeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44,
www.skalka.paulini.pl. Commonly referred to as Skaka,
this gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most impor-
tant religious sites in Krakw, with a fair share of history. In
1079, King Bolesaw the Bold accused the bishop of Krakw,
Stanisaw Szczepaski, of treason. According to legend,
the bishop was beheaded with the sword seen next to the
altar and then his body was chopped into pieces on a tree
stump. After the murder, the royal family fell under a curse.
To appease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family built
the Pauline Church and made regular pilgrimages there to
atone for the murder. Szczepaski was canonised in 1253.
The Skaka crypt is packed tight with important Poles includ-
ing composer Karol Szymanowski, writer Czesaw Miosz
and painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and Jacek Malczewski.
QOpen 08:30 - 18:30. No visiting during mass please. Crypt
is closed until Easter (although it may be possible to organise
to open it for a group by prior arrangement).
St. Catherines (Koci w. Katarzyny) D-7, ul.
Augustiaska 7 (entrance from ul. Skaeczna), tel. (+48)
12 430 62 42, www.parafia.augustianie.pl. Respected as
one of the most beautiful Gothic churches in Krakw. Most of
its furnishings were lost in the 19th century though the Baroque
high altar from 1634 survives. The cloister built in the time of
Kazimierz the Great and decorated with Gothic murals and 17th
century paintings is worth seeing, as is the south porch deco-
rated with stonework and tracery. Q Open during mass only.
Galleries
Centre for Jewish Culture (Centrum Kultury
ydowskiej) D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 52,
www.judaica.pl. Changing exhibitions of contemporary Jewish
art. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Admission free.
112
113
PODGRZE PODGRZE
When Spielberg came to Krakw to produce his award-winning
film Schindlers List, the result was a fast and far-reaching revi-
talisation of Kazimierz, Krakws former Jewish district. Ironically,
however, it didnt reach across the river to Podgrze, despite
the fact most of the films historic events took place here, as
did much of the filming. As Kazimierz became super-saturated
with tourists and bars, predictions were that Podgrze would
emerge as Krakws next hip bohemian district; however aside
from a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow to develop
and for a long time getting off the beaten path in Krakw was
as easy as crossing the river to Podgrze. However, that is all
beginning to change with the recent opening of Schindlers
Factory and a new pedestrian bridge that will literally create a
direct artery of tourist traffic into the district.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual at-
tractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date from
over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in
the 17th century saw much of Podgrze levelled. Awarded the
rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph
II, the town was eventually incorporated as Krakws fourth
district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive
development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and
a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5)
is the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to
the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history
are what people most associate with the district. WWII saw
the ghetto in Podgrze become the temporary home of Kra-
kows Jews, the majority of whom were murdered there, in the
nearby Paszw camp or at Auschwitz Birkenau. The opening
of the Schindlers Factory Museum (K-4, Lipowa 4) has, in
addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust,
endorsed Podgrzes status as a bona fide tourist destination.
Churches
St. Benedicts K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rkawka into the wooded limestone cliffs
of Krzemionki to discover one of Krakws oldest, smallest and
most mysterious churches in the clearing next to the St. Bene-
dict Fort. The date of the present structure has been hard to
determine, but the curious site certainly dates back to the 11th
century and a leading theory attributes it to the Benedictine
monks of Tyniec. Saved from destruction and dereliction by
a local priest the tiny, cramped interior - consisting of only a
small nave and chancel with a painting of St. Benedict over the
pulpit - has been restored, but can only be accessed twice a
year: ironically, during the pagan Rkawka festival held the first
Tuesday after Easter and on St.Benedicts Day, March 21st.
St. Josephs J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Presiding over the
heart of historic Podgrze on the south side of the districts
main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was
built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki.
Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry
dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Josephs
slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most
beautiful in Krakw and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The
interior is no less beautiful and visitors should also note the
abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping
behind the church - all that remains of the original temple,
dismantled due to design flaws. Q Open during mass only.
Museums
Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orem) J-4,
Pl. Bohaterw Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25, www.
mhk.pl. When the Podgrze disctrict became the new Jewish
ghetto under the Nazi occupation, the owner of this pharmacy,
Tadeusz Pankiewicz, decided to stay on in Podgrze and do
all he could for the 15,000 Jews living at this last stop on the
genocide route. The only Poles allowed to live and work in the
Jewish ghetto, Pankiewicz and his staff risked their lives in
many clandestine operations and he was later recognised as
one of the Righteous Among the Nations. Today, his pharmacy
has been converted to a small museum, which heartrender-
ingly portrays life in the ghetto. Q Open 09:00-16:00, Mon
10:00-14:00, Fri 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/5z, Mon free. Y
Places of Interest
Bednarski Park J-5, Entrances from ul. Parkowa and
ul. Zamojskiego. Opened with great fanfare at the end of
the 19th century, the parks founder Wojciech Bednarski was
reportedly carried around like a winning quarterback while
newspapers from as far away as St. Petersburg applauded
the parks establishment. Though the park itself doesnt offer
much more than a partially paved path to walk on, this is one
of the most beautiful, captivating natural spaces in Krakw
with limestone cliffs, over one hundred different species of
tree and the remains of an 18th century fortification. Covering
eight and half hectares, Bednarski Park is lush and wild with
trails winding everywhere, in turns shadowy and chimerical,
or open with fine overviews of the city from its various ridges.
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The only surviving fortress
of three that were built in Podgrze in the mid-19th century to
protect the Vistula river and the road to Lww, Fort Benedict
is one of only a few citadels of the Maximillion Tower type
left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery tower
in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with a round interior
yard, the fort has a total surface area of 1500 square metres.
Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota Hill, it takes its name
from nearby St. Benedicts church. The fortress quickly lost its
usefulness in the 1890s and has since been used as Austrian
military barracks and was even converted into apartments in
the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction, filled with
abandonned furniture and building materials. Numerous plans
have been put forth for converting it into a cultural space, but
it remains impenetrable to tourists at the moment, adding to
the scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most surprising
and strange corners.
Krakus Mound (Kopiec Krakusa) K-5, above ul.
Maryewskiego. The oldest structure in Krakw, Krakus
Mound is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in
the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible
panoramic views from its worn summit. Sixteen metres
high, sixty metres wide at the base and eight metres wide
at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands in scruffy contrast to
the manicured modern mounds elsewhere in the city, with
a muddy path winding around to a bald peak. The site of
pagan ritual for centuries, the mound retains an ancient,
evocative atmosphere ampli fied by the surroundings of the
cli ffs of Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Paszw, the
grim Liban quarry and the Podgrze cemetery. With incred-
ible views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of
one of Krakws least explored and most captivating areas
and should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding
detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most
easily from the major intersection of al. Powstacw Wielo-
polskich and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of
al. Pod Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5)
to the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineering,
Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and mys-
tery. Connected with the popular story of Krakws mythical
founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said to have
been constructed in honour of his death when noblemen and
peasants filled their sleeves with sand and dirt, bringing it to
this site in order to create an artificial mountain that would
rule over the rest of the landscape. In the interwar period,
extensive archaeological studies were undertaken to try to
date the mound and verify if there was truth to the legend
that Krak was buried beneath it. Though much about the
ingenuity of the mounds prehistoric engineers was revealed,
no trace of a grave was found, however excavations were not
completely comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in
the lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century, and
there is general agreement today that the mound was cre-
ated by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half
of the 7th century and the early 10th century, though other
hypotheses credit the structure to the Celts. Originally there
were four smaller mounds around the base of Kraks mound,
however these were levelled in the mid-19th century during
the construction of the citys first fortress which surrounded
the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled
in 1954). The location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda
Mound in Mogia (T-4) - the citys other, lesser prehistoric
earthwork - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being
an ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or 21st
the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wandas Mound;
conversely, standing on Wandas Mound at dusk, the sun
sets in a straight line behind Kraks Mound. The legend of
Kraks mound inspired the modern creation of burial mounds
for Kociuszko and Pisudski in Las Wolski and today they
remain one of Polands greatest archaeological mysteries.
New Podgrze Cemetery (Cmentarz Podgrski)
K-5, ul. Wapienna 13, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 25. Behind
Kopiec Krakusa on the Krakus foothills, the New Cemetery
is a large, picturesque memorial park filled with monumental
sculpture. Opened in 1900, the cemetery originally had a
strict Catholic character with a separate designated area
for Protestants and a distinct section for suicides (marked
VIII-a). Today it continues to grow and is ideal place to visit
if you are here on All Souls Day (Nov. 1, 2) due to its basin-
shape creating an amphitheatre of coloured candlelight.
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00.
Old Podgrze Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Podgr-
ski) K-5, Corner of ul. Limanowskiego and ul. Pow-
stancw Wielopolskich. Podgrzes primary necropolis
for over a hundred years, the Old Podgrze Cemetery is/
was the resting place of the formerly independent citys
most distinguished citizens. Established in the late 18th
century, the cemeterys grand arched gateway is set back
from a busy intersection on a hill behind the iconic sculpture
of God the Father. Unfortunately, with the exception of a
few, many of the most notable graves have been lost during
the boneyards turbulent history. Crossing the stone entry,
the first grave on the right is the resting place of Edward
Dembowski - leader of the 1846 Krakw Uprising, laid to
rest here in a collective grave with 28 insurgents shot by the
Austrian Army; nearby is the Bednarski family vault, where
Wojciech - founder of Podgos most beautiful park reposes.
Closed upon reaching capacity in 1900, the Germans levelled
a third of the cemetery during WWII while building a railway.
Even more grievous was the sites reduction to a fraction of
its original size during the construction of al. Powstacw
Wielopolskich in the 1970s, when almost all the graves
were destroyed or strewn haphazardly about. Like much of
the district today, the cemeterys charm lies in the nostalgic
character of its general neglect. A small relic of vanishing
beauty, the cemetery is open everyday from dawn to dusk.
QOpen 07:00 - 18:00.
Liban Quarry J/K-5, ul. Za Torem. One of the creepi-
est, most forgotten places in Krakw, the Liban Quarry
should first and foremost be a place of remembrance for
the victims of the Nazi labour camp that operated here
during Krakws WWII occupation. That said, the sight lies
in overgrown abandon today, slowly becoming a nature
sanctuary for waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and
other various creatures (weve even seen an unattended
horse grazing here) as the city seems to have forgotten it
completely. Incredible limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fenceposts, gravestones and tangles of
barbed wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis, run by
two well-known Jewish industrial families from Podgrze,
established a quarry here in 1873. By the end of the 19th
century a complex of buildings was established within
the quarry and a railway line laid as the families enjoyed
an excellent reputation locally and abroad. However,
during Nazi occupation, Liban was set-up as a cruel
penal camp where 800 young Poles were kept prisoner
from 1942 to 1944 performing forced labour. A small,
discreet, overgrown and easily overlooked memorial for
21 inmates executed during the liquidation of the camp
lies beside the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in the
Paszw concentration camp. Not wanting to use the
nearby site of the camp itself out of respect, it must
have taken little imagination on his part to settle upon
Liban. During filming 34 barracks and watchtowers were
set-up around the quarry, and though most of the set was
subsequently removed, some traces remain confusingly
mixed with the genuine historical leftovers from the war,
making it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel
as you walk amongst the many gallows-like fenceposts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones, which we can put you at ease
by assuring you is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, Liban allows you to ex-
plore Krakws World War II history on your own terms,
interpreting it as you like without the hand-holding of
history books or tourist bureaus. Enter the quarry at your
own risk by following a trail from Kraks Mound toward
Podgrze cemetery along the rim of and into the quarry,
or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though there is noth-
ing unlawful about being in the quarry, city employees
of the Housing Office buildings at the quarrys entrance
have been known to aggravatedly deny entry or ask
people to leave.
Liban Quarry
Allie_Caulfield
114
115
PODGRZE PODGRZE
Schindlers Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) K-4,
ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl.
After years of preparation, the Oskar Schindler Enam-
elled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) has finally
re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The
story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which
has been well-known since the book and film by Thomas
Keneally and Steven Spielberg (whose film Schindlers
List was shot almost entirely in Krakw). The discussions
on whether to open and how to present the story in a
museum lasted many years and it began to look like
the project would never come to fruition. The Historical
Museum of the City of Krakow did eventually manage
to secure the derelict property which once housed
Schindlers factory and the relevant permissions with
the new museum opened on June 10th, 2010.
While the story of Oskar Schindler and his workers is now
covered in detail on the original site, the new museum
casts the city of Krakw in the main role of its permanent
exhibition titled, Krakw During Nazi Occupation 1939-
1945. Individual histories of Krakws wartime inhabitants
guide visitors through the exhibit which covers the war of
1939, Krakws role as the seat of the General Government,
everyday life under occupation, the fate of the Jews and the
citys underground resistance using vast archival docu-
ments, photos, radio and film recordings, period artefacts
and dynamic multimedia installations. A separate section
of the factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and
other cultural events, while plans to open a controversial
contemporary art museum under separate ownership
on the same site appear to be moving forward. And until
April 3, the museum is presenting a temporary exhibition
entitled To the Hell of Sachsenhausen. The fate of the
Krakow academics which recalls the story of Sonderak-
tion Krakau, the effective beheading of Krakows intellectual
elite in 1939. Recalling what it describes as the forgotten
extermination of Polish and Czech intellectuals in Sach-
senhausen and Ravensbrook the exhibition is free to enter.
The development of the factory into a world-class educa-
tional and cultural site is great news not only for tourists, but
also for Podgrze and the healing process of the city itself as
it reconciles one of the most painful chapters of its history.
A must-visit, this is one of the most fascinating museums in
the entire country and with that in mind we recommend that
you reserve at least two hours if you want to see everything.
Note that visiting groups need to book in advance using the
museum website.QOpen 10:00-18:00, Mon 10:00-14:00.
Closed the first Monday of every month. Last entrance 90
minutes before closing. Admission 15/13z. Guided tours
in English for groups of over 15 people, 16z per person.
Mon free for permanent exhibitions.
Schindlers Factory
So what of the monster
of the story, Amon Goeth.
Born i n Vi enna, 1908,
our arch-villain joined the
Nazi party in 1932, before
progressing to the ranks
of the Gestapo in 1940.
Originally sent to German-
occupied Lublin, east Poland, Goeth found a liking for
slaughter during the liquidation of the Lublin Ghetto, and
so impressed his seniors with his methods that he was
promoted to camp commandant of the Paszw camp
in Krakw in 1943. In the same year he supervised the
brutal clearing of the Krakw ghetto in Podgrze, as well
as the ghetto found in Tarnw.
Having found a fondness for accepting bribes during his
stint in Lublin he used his position in charge of liquidizing
ghettos to steal property and valuables confiscated from
Jews. Often found parading around on a white charger he
was notorious for his corrupt nature, heavy drinking and
bouts of extreme violence. Several scenes in Spielbergs
masterpiece never actually occurred however - he never
murdered his stable boy (who survived the war), nor was
he able to take pot shots at prisoners from his balcony,
seeing that his house backed directly onto a hill.
However this should not be taken as a sign of a benign
human being. In the words of Poldek Pfefferberg, when
you saw Goeth, you saw death. Unable to shoot at pris-
oners from his balcony, he saved that dubious pleasure
to taking crack shots from high on a hill.
In 1944 he was relieved of his position and charged with
theft of Reich property, though Germanys looming military
collapse meant he was never brought to tribunal. Diagnosed
with diabetes and mental illness by SS doctors he spent the
remainder of the war in a sanatorium and was arrested by
American troops in 1945. Charged with the murder of 2,000
Jews during the evacuation of the Podgrze ghetto, and
8,000 deaths during his time in Plaszw he was sentenced
to death and hanged in Krakw in 1946.
Goeths mistress, Ruth-Irene Kalder remained loyal to him in
death, keeping a photograph of him by her bedside until she
died. Giving an interview in 1983 she declared him a charming
man before choosing to commit suicide the following day.
Goeths crumbling villa, the only remaining building of the
Plaszow concentration camp, still stands and can be seen
at ul. Heltmana 22 (just off the edge of our map in L-5 if you
carry on along ul. Wielicka), while down the road the grey
house on ul. Jerozolimska 3 was once home to a detach-
ment of SS officers as well as a basement torture cham-
ber. The large field on the hill behind Goeths villa formed
the camp; all buildings were destroyed by the Nazis at the
end of the war. A number of monuments commemorate
those who died here - one stands along the path behind
the villa, the others can be found on the hilltop, a 10-minute
walk up the path. The large official stone memorial on the
highest point is accompanied by two small stones, and
overlooks a geological reservation, with remains dating
back to Jurassic times, to the west. 200m east of the of-
ficial monument stands a large wooden cross. No remains
of the camp can be discerned, and the hill is now simply
an ersatz park for many local residents.
The Monster - Amon Goeth Post War
Following the war he emigrated
to Argenti na wi th hi s wi fe to
settl e as a farmer, though by
1957 he was declared bankrupt
and returned to Germany alone.
Financial woes were to blight him
for the rest of his life. Regarded
as a traitor to the fatherland he
was cold shouldered by Germans
and more business ventures fell
by the wayside. By the time of
his death in 1974 he was fully dependent on the charity of
those he had saved. Buried in Jerusalem, his acts of courage
have been honoured by Yad Vashem as one of the Righteous
Amongst Nations. Schindler sights in Krakw include the
house he lived in at ul. Starszewskiego 7 where he lived
before moving permanently into his factory at ul. Lipowa
4. After a long wait, the factory is now open as a museum.
Schindlers Krakow
Kazimierz, and the courtyard on Jzefa 12 (D-6) should be the
start of any Schindler/Keneally/Spielberg inspired tour, and
this is where numerous scenes in Spielbergs film were shot.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in
Kazimierz was marched across the Powstancw lskich
bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgrze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, including a
stretch of the wall built by the Nazis and ironically resembling
Jewish gravestones on ul. Lwowska (K-4). At the end of the
street, head up the path on the corner of ulica Limanowskiego
and ulica Rekawka to reach the Austro-Hungarian fort, around
the back of which is the plaque in memory of the little girl
who inspired Oskar Schindler to acts of altruistic courage.
When the ghetto was liquidated on March 14, 1943, most of
the Jewish residents faced death either in the gas chambers
of Birkenau, or in the nearby work quarries in Paszw and
Liban (J/K-5); now abandoned, both sites can be visited by
the curious and intrepid. Few traces remain of the Paszw
camp, aside from some rusting fences and mineshafts nowa-
days filled with litter and the occasional rambling vagrant.
The lonely dipping grass plains are well worth a visit and
dominated by a huge monument raised in 1964.
Today the Pharmacy Under the Eagle (J-4, Pl. Bohaterw
Getta 18) pays testament to the victims of the Holocaust in
a small museum, but the recently opened Schindlers Factory
(K-4, Lipowa 4) museum is the first to properly confront and
explore Krakws World War II history.
Noaa Wikipedia
Oskar Schindler (on left) at his factory - Courtesy of USHMM
Oskar Schindler
Immortalised by Thomas Keneallys book Schindlers Ark,
and then later in the Spielberg epic Schindlers List, Oskar
Schindler is a name synonymous with Krakw. A hard-
drinking, profiteering playboy, Schindler does not fit the
standard mould for a hero, though neither was he the typical
Nazi. Credited with saving 1,200 Jews his actions continue
to serve as an example and inspiration.
Early Years
Born on April 28, 1908 in what is now the town of Svitavy in
the Czech Republic, Schindler enjoyed a privileged upbringing
and was childhood friends with the Jewish family residing next
door. The 1930s economic crisis saw his familys firm slide
into bankruptcy, and like so many disaffected Germans he
signed up with the Nazi party.
In Krakow
Hot on the heels of the invading German army Schindler found
himself arriving in Krakw in 1939 where he took charge of a
formerly Jewish-owned enamel factory. Motivated by greed
he principally employed cut-price Jewish labour, and involved
himself in the thriving black market. Living a care-free, lav-
ish lifestyle his world and motives appear to have changed
after witnessing the emptying of the Podgrze Ghetto. Both
Keneally and Spielberg pay particular importance to his
fascination with the plight of a small girl dressed in a red
cape and Schindler would later claim, Beyond this day, no
thinking person could fail to see what would happen. I was
now resolved to do everything in my power to defeat the
system. He arranged for workers housed in the notorious
Paszw camp to be moved to his factory, shielding them time
and time again from deportation and death through bribery
and cunning. With the war coming to a close, and his Jews
facing the prospect of death marches and gas chambers, he
miraculously managed to persuade the Nazi authorities to
relocate his factory and his workers to Brunlitz (a sub-camp
of Gross-Rosen) in 1944. Estimates suggest he spent four
million marks during the war on protecting his workers, with
his wife even selling her jewellery so as to provide funds for
medicine and food. Moreover, in the seven months he spent
as director of a shell factory in Brunlitz, not one working shell
left the production line. Courtesy of History Museum of Krakw
116
117
NOWA HUTA
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis
of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not
here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only
two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the
other being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural Mountains), and
one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering
in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of
Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia and Krzesawice) in
an attempt to create an in-yer-face proletarian opponent
to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Krakw. The decision
to build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over
the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000
people sprung up at breakneck speed. One man, Piotr
Oaski, was publicly credited with laying a stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. Built to impress, Nowa Huta
featured wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the of-
ficially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist
Realism. Nowa Hutas architects strove to construct the ideal
city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood
blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western
metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was
designed with efficient mutual control in mind: wide streets
would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees
would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was
such that the city could quickly be turned into a fortress if it
came under attack.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realized. However what was
completed is very much worth the trip for intrepid tourists
willing to teleport themselves into a completely di fferent
reality far from the cobbled kitsch of Krakw; its as easy
as a tramride.
What To See
Should you take that step, do so onto the platform of Plac
Centralny (O-4) and find yoursel f in the central nervous
system of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central Square
is a masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the brainchild
of architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of irony, this
Soviet landmark which once bore Stalins name was officially
redesignated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004, though speak
to any local and youll still find it referred to as Pl. Centralny.
While this square serves as the focal point for visitors, its the
Steelworks (T-2) that Nowa Huta is known for, not to mention
named after. Poland was in the process of rebuilding itself from
near complete destruction after WWII, and steel was of vital
importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954 the first
blast furnace was in operation. Employing some 40,000 people
in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a time after Lenin - were
capable of producing seven million tonnes of steel annually, and
at one time boasted the largest blast furnace in Europe. Such
was its reputation that Fidel Castro chose to visit the Steelworks
rather than Krakws Rynek on one state visit to Poland.
Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist show-
case city, but the reality was far different. It became a hotbed
of anticommunist activity, with early displays of dissent
traced back to the struggle for permission to build the citys
first church, and though it took 28 years, The Lords Ark
(Koci Arka Pana, N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977. Not
surprisingly many of Nowa Hutas political protestors could be
found during the day on the factory floor, and the Steelworks
were to play a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of the early
1980s. Identified as an anti-establishment stronghold, the
Steelworks were placed under military control during the pe-
riod of martial law, and today a remembrance room inside the
factory honours those workers who put their lives on the line.
However, while Nowa Huta is the product of the last half
century, a true tour of the area reveals a number of treasures
of much older historical value. The most epitomising example
of a pre-steel age in the area has to be Wandas Mound
(T-4) - a mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the
areas settlement predates that of Krakws Old Town. The
quiet communities of Krzesawice (S-1) and Mogia (R-5) each
hide pristine examples of ancient Polish sacral architecture in
the wooden churches of St. John the Baptist and St. Bar-
tholomew (S-2 and R-5, respectively). Artist Jan Matejko
enjoyed Krzesawice so much he used it as an artist retreat
as his preserved period manor house (S-1) evidences. Mogia
meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished religious sites
in Maopolska in the Cistercian Monastery (R-5) and its
morbidly miraculous cross. If youve more time to explore, a
walking or cycling tour of Mogias small backroads is akin
to an open-air ethnographic museum, just watch out for the
german shepherds behind every garden fence.
Nowa Huta Churches
Church of St. Bartholomew R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,
tel. (+48) 12 644 23 31. Founded by Krakw bishop Iwo
Odrow who brought the Cistercians to Mogia from Silesia in
1222, the present structure of this outstanding wooden church
dates from 1466. As the Church of St. Wenceslas across the
street was part of a monastic complex, St. Batholomews was
erected to accommodate the Catholic layman, one of whom
- master carpenter Maciej Mczka - put his name and comple-
tion date on the door after building this enduring wooden
treasure. Exceptional for its three aisles - a rarity in wooden
church architecture - the 18th century belfry and beautiful
domed entrance gate have also been preserved. Mogia is
easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams 15 and 17; get
off at the Klasztorna stop and its a short walk south. QOpen
12:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu.
Church of St. John the Baptist
S-2, ul. Wakowicza 21, tel. (+48)
12 642 15 58. Next door to Mate-
jkos manor house, this is one of two
wooden churches in the area. Built
between 1633 and 1648 in the vil-
lage of Jaworniki in the mountains on
Polands eastern border with Ukraine,
when the church was threatened by
demolition in the 1980s local authori-
ties surprisingly approved its transfer
to Krzesawice as part of a planned open-air folk architecture
museum which never came to be. A tower was added and the
historic monument took on new life as a place of worship,
which continues today with regular services held in the small,
single-aisle interior. Q Open by prior arrangement.
The Cistercian Monastery R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11, tel.
(+48)12 644 23 31. Located in what remains of the sleepy
village of Mogia that Nowa Huta was plunked down upon, the
ancient Cistercian Monastery, with its two adjoining churches,
was the closest place of worship to Plac Centralny until Arka
Pana Church (N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977. The vast
and splendid Church of St. Wenceslas and the adjoining
Cistercian cloister, which date way, way back to 1266, are
recognised as among the most important religious buildings
in Maopolska. During the Renaissance the monastery was
well known for its master painters and the huge interior of
St. Wenceslas as well as the monastery library feature many
fine works from the period. Most importantly, St. Wenceslas
Church also stores the famous Cross of Mogia - the source
of many miraculous legends. Said to have been discovered
when a blacksmiths son jumped into the Wisa River to save
what he thought to be a drowning man floating downstream,
the cross was brought to the monastery and quickly began
building a reputation for miracles before cementing them when
it was the only part of the churchs furnishings not destroyed
by the fire of 1447, despite being made of wood. Christs hair
and loincloth were burned however, and ever since that time he
has donned a wrap of true fabric and a wig of real human hair.
Weird. The monastery is easily accessed from Plac Centralny
via trams 15 and 17; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its a
short walk south. Call ahead (ext. 11) to arrange for a guide or
you may only have access to the gardens (open year round).
The Lords Ark (Koci Arka Pana) N-1, ul. Obrocw
Krzya 1, tel. (+48) 12 644 54 34, www.arkapana.pl. Built
between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house of worship
was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together
brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance from the
communist authorities. The complete opposite of what Nowa
Huta was meant to stand for, The Lords Ark is a remarkable
building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism.
With no outside help it was down to the locals to mix cement with
spades, and find the two million stones needed for the churchs
facade. The first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol
Wojtyla, who would later assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but
the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, and
the precarious removal of some 5,000 mines and shells had
to be completed before work was resumed. Finally, on May 15,
1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noahs Ark,
with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the middle, the
church houses a mind-boggling array of treasures, including a
stone from the tomb of St Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle
containing a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by
the crew of Apollo 11 and a controversial statue of Christ that
shows him not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. And
if you thought it couldnt get weirder then you hadnt gambled
on the statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured - get this,
the half metre sculpture is made from ten kilograms of shrapnel
removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle of Monte
Cassino. The church became a focal point during the anti-
communist protests of the early 1980s, not least for the shelter
it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during the period
of Martial Law was dangerous business, and thats proved
by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Wosik more or less
opposite the church. Wosik was shot in the chest by security
services, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the
people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The
monument commemorating the site of his death was erected
in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during this period.
Q Lower level open 06:00 - 08:30, 16:30-18:30. Upper level
open 09:00-17:00. No visiting during mass please.
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited
what is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in
Krakw. He made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when
the Steelworks were named after him, and a year later
a statue of him was unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The
figure was moved to the Lenin Museum soon after, and
thereafter mysteriously disappeared. In 1970 the deci-
sion was taken to construct a new one on Al. R, with
Marian Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenins
former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate
Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue,
with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully
foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and
furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were
left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus
of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle,
battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left
below the statue which read, Take these old boots, get
on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta. In 1979
a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty
proved to be a local man who died of shock after being
awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more
attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly
survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked
up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused
fort. But his story doesnt end there. Years later a Swedish
philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns,
and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm.
Today Nowa Hutas former pet Lenin has been given a
more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen
touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid.
Memories of Lenin
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Trams 4 or 15 from Dworzec Gwny (the train
station stop), or tram 22 from Starowilna all go straight
to Plac Centralny.
Getting There
Roses Avenue (Aleja R)
NOWA HUTA
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119
NOWA HUTA NOWA HUTA
Museums
Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Matejki)
S-1, ul. Wakowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74. Located
in Krzesawice - a charming village just one street behind Nowa
Hutas artificial lake, here youll find the small manor house
with a wood shingle roof once used as a workshop by Polands
greatest 19th century painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly
ironic today, this is where the artist went to escape the crude
haste of life in Krakw. First inhabited by Hugo Kotaj - an
eminent Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Polands
constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the manor in
1876 adding on the porch and the extension which would house
his workshop. Inside guests will see Matejkos famous Gallery
of Polish Kings as well as many illustrations, everyday items
and period furniture. Next door is the wooden Church of St. John
the Baptist - also worth seeing. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. Admission 5/2z.
Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2, os.
Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97 75, www.
mhk.pl. This small museum, which also serves as Nowa Hutas
tourist information centre, features a series of changing exhibi-
tions relating to the life and culture of the district. Most exhibits
are in Polish, but the women working there speak English and its
well worth dropping by just for a free map and information. Q
Open 09:00-16:00, Wed 10:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Also
open every second Sunday of the month and closed the following
Tuesday to make up for it (and create maximum confusion). Last
ticket sold 30 minutes before closing. Admission 5/4z. Wed free.
Places of Interest
The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac Central-
ny i Aleja R) O-4. The centre of Nowa Hutas architectural
layout, Plac Centralny is the districts primary landmark and
one of social realisms highest architectural achievements in
PL, despite never being completed. The two main structures
of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling a
mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre at the
southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the designs
were in place, none saw development. Similarly, the grand prom-
enade linking them - Roses Avenue (Aleja R, O-3) - was never
fully realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making
it a fine example of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining the way,
youll find several curiosities worth peeping into. Perhaps the most
timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3).
Though a nationally known chain of half craft, half kitsch folk art
items, the Nowa Huta branch is like none other thanks to the original
50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and a coffer
ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic plates. The character of
this place hasnt changed a bit and as such its a great place to buy
sheepskins, lacework or famous Bolesawiec pottery at basement
prices. Crossing the street to os. Centrum C, original interiors have
also been preserved in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a
true taste of the district visit the incredible milk bar next door to it.
Nowa Huta is literally chock-a-block with milk bars, but weve never
seen anything as glorious as the midnight blue with a rainbow motif
interior of this bar mleczny. Topping that, take a trip to the other
end of the block to the legendary Stylowa Restaurant - one of
the only places to eat in NH that isnt a milk bar. Once one of the
most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries on in the
same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that hasnt been
updated in well over 30 years. Stop in on a Friday or Saturday night
to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on the dancefloor to
live disco polo sets by a crooning husband and wife team, and we
guarantee you wont be able to leave before dancing with at least
two babcias and having at least three unwanted conversations. A
rare cultural experience, few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.
The Sendzimir Steelworks (Huta im. Tadeusza
Sendzimira) T-2, ul. Ujastek 1. While the monumental
Plac Centralny is the face Nowa Huta turns to the public, its
true social realist glorypiece is the Administrative Centre of
the Steelworks - the palatial monstrosities flanking the gate
to the complex. Built between 1952 and 55 to the design
of the two Januszs - Ballenstadt and Ingarten - these twin
architectural monuments crowned with a renaissance comb
attic represent the most exquisite example of the social
realism in Poland. If you could get yourself inside them youd
see incredibly well-preserved examples of 50s decor includ-
ing black marble staircases, magnificent candelabras and
decorative radiator shields. Getting inside the Steelworks
is indeed a bit of a problem. Despite the fact that one of its
buildings houses a small Solidarity Museum, the Steelworks
are open only by special arrangement (or during occassional
concerts held in the former tinning mill) and they dont do
English tours (sad face). Even in that case, you would have
to hire an automobil e to begin exploring the immense
complex which covers over 1000 hectares with an internal
road and rail network dozens of kilometres long. Some of
the Steelworks larger halls could fit Krakws main market
square (the largest in Europe, mind you) several times over,
and the lava-brimming melting ladles are several stories tall.
After communism fell, the patron saint of the Steelworks
was revised from Vladimir Lenin to Polish-American inven-
tor Tadeusz Sendzimir. In 2005 the complex was bought by
the Indian tycoon Lakshmi Mithal and is now officially called
ArcelorMittal Poland, but you can call it Susan.
Wandas Mound (Kopiec Wandy) T-4, Near intersec-
tion of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa. Though
construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949, Kopiec Wandy
is indisputable evidence that the history of the area goes
back much further. In fact, the village of Mogia, which Kopiec
Wandy is near the historical centre of, has been inhabited
since 5000 BC without interruption, while archaeologists
date the settlement of Krakws Old Town much later in the
8th century. Together with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgrze (K-5)
- Krakws other prehistoric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy plays
a role in one of Polands greatest archeaological mysteries
as the mounds date of construction, builders and function
all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading theories
suggest that both mounds were erected sometime between
the 6th and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts,
as burial mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is
that they were created as burial mounds which later became
cult sites. Though seemingly random within the layout of
modern Krakw, the location of the two mounds can hardly
be seen as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec Wandy
on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen
setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
Off a major road behind a handy tramstop (station Kopiec
Wandy), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m
with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small monu-
ment from the 19th century by Jan Matejko who lived in the
Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect
and geographical trespasses, Wandas Mound today lies
just beyond the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir
steel plant, of which glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen
through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improve-
ment, where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgrze can be seen in
the distance, though Wandas Mound unfortunately doesnt
offer sweeping views of the same caliber as Krakws other
mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is in need of
the development which is apparently planned, not to men-
tion some proper modern archaeological studies; behind
the mound is a footpath leading to the right towards one
of Krakws hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but,
honestly, it just gives us the creeps.
The Nowa Huta Cross and Riots O-2, ul.
Ludmierska 2. Concei ved as an i deal soci al i st
city, Nowa Huta was to be atheist by definition and
as such its design didnt designate any urban plots
for troubl esome churchs. As one can imagine, the
policy didnt go over well with the locals who, backed
by Bishop Karol Woj tyla - the future Pope JP2, began
fighting for a permit to erect a Catholic place of worship
right from the get-go. Progress finally came with the
political thaw of October 1956: the proper papers and
permissions were granted, a site was chosen and soon
a large wooden cross was erected and consecrated
i n the Theatre distri ct. I n June 1958, ground was
broken for the foundations, but work was promptly
halted as the leniency of the communist authorities
had apparently expired, and the site was designated
for a school. With the intent of removing the consecra-
tion cross, the authorities aptly anticipated a conflict
after numerous protests and special armed forces
were rol l ed i n from al l across southern PL. Nowa
Huta was officiall y closed and a dense column of
military trucks, armoured cars, cannons and machine
guns sealed it off from Krakw, with the only line of
communication between the two cities being the taxi
drivers who announced that the revolution in Nowa
Huta had begun. Tensions broke into an all-out street
war between police and some 4000 defenders of the
cross on April 27, 1960 and lasted for several days
with water cannons, tear gas and dogs unleashed on
the civilian protestors. The number of injured or killed
in the conflict is unknown, but officiall y distributed
reports (dubious by nature) listed military casualties
at 200 and eyewitnesses suggest the civilian number
would have been three or four times as much. Officially
493 people were arrested and 87 sentenced to prison
stints from 6 months to 5 years in length.
And the cross? It stood, though the planned school was
nonetheless built on the original church site beside it as
armed officers guarded the cross day and night. By the
1970s the Nowa Huta Cross was in sorry shape, and
looking ready to keel over from rot and decay - an idea
which greatly pleased the authorities who assumed
that when it did their troubles would be over. Not so.
A massive new oak cross was secretly prepared and
when the opportunity to install it arose in the late 70s
as the officers were away from their posts for May 1st
celebrations (Communist Labour Day), it was erected
on the site of the original. It would later be replaced by
a metal cross and in 2007 by the bronze cross which
stands today bearing the inscription, To John Paul II,
the Defender of the Cross - the grateful people of Nowa
Huta. The city, meanwhile, would remain without a
church until 1966 when Arka Pana (N-1) was built a half
kilometre away (though it would be prevented from be-
ing officially consecrated until 1977). In 2002, the small
Church of the Sacred Heart was consecrated beside the
Nowa Huta Cross and adjacent school.
The Nowa Huta Cross
The only daughter of Krakus, Krakws mythical founder,
there are many tales chronicling the life of Wanda which
have been the source of numerous literary works and
taken their place in the Polish national consciousness.
First mentioned by a historian of the early 13th century,
Queen Wanda (like all Polish women, mind you) was ap-
parently quite an exceptional lady. Possessed of great
beauty (obviously), grace, wisdom and charm, even the
most ruthless enemies were said to willow at the sight
of her, including a Leman tyrant who - in attempting to
seize a throne he perceived as vacant - laid down his
arms at the sight of her indisputable charms. Not just a
pretty face, Wanda is also credited with military talent,
defeating the Germans in a battle at Skotnickie Lake. As
you can imagine, a lady of such high nobility, endowment
and appeal had her fair share of suitors and apparently
the list of humiliated hopefuls throwing themselves on their
swords was a long one. Valuing virginity as the highest
moral station, Wanda refused all those who asked for her
hand, including a German prince who threatened to take
her and her kingdom by force if she would not submit. In
a revered example of self-sacrifice to her people, rather
than willfully give her kingdom over to a foreigner, Wanda
threw herself into the Wisa River - an act which later, dur-
ing the highly-patriotic periods of Polish annexation and
occupation, earned her the snarky nickname Wanda who
didnt want a German. In order to honour and remember
their great Queen, the nation built her an earthwork tomb
as impressive as her fathers near Mogia, the place of her
birth. Though she died a virgin, those brave enough to visit
Nowa Huta today can easily conquer Wandas mound.
The Legend of Wanda
Tourist Information O-2, os. Soneczne 16, tel.
(+48) 12 643 03 03, www.infokrakow.pl. See Nowa
Huta Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Tourist Information
120
121
AUSCHWITZ
Bochnia Mine (Kopalnia Soli Bochnia) ul. Solna 2,
Bochnia, tel. (+48) 14 615 36 36, www.kopalniasoli.pl.
This salt mine was the oldest production company in Poland
- it recently closed after more than 750 years of operation.
The tour takes in the largest chambers, that hold a sports
centre, cafeteria, disco and sanatorium before heading
off to the chapel and some twisty old shafts. While less
spectacular than Wieliczka, Bochnia is a less commercial
and hurried experience.
For centuri es, sal t was mined near Krakw and brought
weal th to the region. Two mines can be visi ted, of whi ch
the one in Wi eli czka is the most spectacular. About 20
million years ago, this area was covered by a shall ow,
sal ty sea. Unfortunatel y for Krakw the beaches have
gone, but l eft behind were some huge sal t deposi ts that
ended up 10-200m underground due to tectoni c move-
ments. Ever since the Stone Age, locals have been boiling
brine to extract sal t from the easil y reachabl e layers;
from the 13th century peopl e started to di g for rock-sal t.
The mines graduall y devel oped from small shafts used
by l ocal farmers and operati ng onl y i n wi nterti me, to
compl exes of tunnels wi th horse-powered winches until
finall y into the modern mines that were eventuall y closed
in the 1990s. Both the Bochnia and Wi eli czka mines can
be visi ted on tours that last about two hours, wi th wi tty
guides who give insight into ancient and modern salt min-
ing techni ques and the artworks, chapels, lakes, sports
facili ti es and sanatori ums you now fi nd underground.
The temperature in both mines is a constant 15C. I f
you want to impress the gui de, memorise the wonder ful
words Szcz Boe (stench-tsh boh-zhe); this essential,
unpronouncabl e bi t of sal t miners lingo means as much
as may God protect you.
Get there by train from Krakw (1-3 trains per hour, 30-60
minutes) and walk 10 minutes uphill from the station to the
Rynek (main square) from where you see the shaft lifts. Q
Admission 24/19z. Tours at 09:30, 12:00, 15:30, Sat, Sun
hourly between 10:15 & 16:15. Phone ahead for an English-
speaking guide 125z.
Wi el i cz ka Mi ne
ul . Dani owi cza 10,
Wieliczka, tel. (+48)
12 278 73 02, www.
kopal ni a.pl. A l i sted
UNESCO monument
since 1978, the Wielic-
zka mine is thought to
have been created by the
forces of nature around
15 million years ago. The
mine features nine floors, ranging from 64 metres to 327
metres in depth, with one shaft dating from medievel times.
The tour takes in a series of chambers full of carvings and
statues, the late 17th century St. Anthonys chapel and the
huge 22,000 cubic metre Chapel of St. Kinga, which is com-
pletely decorated with salt. The bas-relief wall carvings, made
by talented miners, depict scenes from the New Testament
and display amazing dimension and realism. After passing
a salt lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and
a hall big enough to fly a hot-air balloon in, the tour ends at
the underground restaurant and souvenir shop. A rattling
high-speed mining lift brings you back up to the surface.
Travel the 15km to Wieliczka by frequent train (4z) by bus (no.
304 from main train station stop, 3z one way) or by minibus
(every 20 minutes from the main bus station, 3z). QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Admission 68/54 z.
laslandes
SALT MINES
Visiting the Museum
Arri ving at the Auschwi tz Museum can be chaotic and
confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket win-
dows with di fferent designations, and excessive signage
that contradicts itsel f. I f youre in an organised group, you
can avoid this. I f visiting on your own or in a small group,
find the queue for the desk marked Individual Guests,
where the cl erk is likel y to tell you that despi te si gns
saying you are free to visit the museum on your own at
no charge, i n actual i ty
you can onl y vi si t the
museum by j oi ni ng a
gui ded t our. You can
take hear t i n knowi ng
that the gui ded tour is
excellent, profound and
professional, and after-
wards you find it hard to
imagine getting as much
out of your visit had you
explored the grounds on
your own. Group guided
tours are avai l abl e i n
Engl i sh (10:30, 11:30,
13:15), German, French,
Italian, Spanish (12:15);
with over 300 tour guides employed, there is an impetus
on the part of the museum to provide the tour in the native
language of each guest - tours in other languages can be
easily arranged in advance.
After purchasing a ticket (38/27z) and headphones (5z),
you may have to wait before your experience begins with
a harrowing 20 minute film of narrated footage captured
by the Soviet Army when they arrived to liberate the camp
in January 1945. The film is not recommended for children
under 14 (nor is the entire museum for that matter). If visit-
ing the museum independently of a group, the film costs
3.50/2.50z. After the film, your tour of the camp begins
with a live guide speaking into a microphone which you hear
through your headphones.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare ac-
cordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
can take over 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break of about 20 minutes before the bus leaves for
Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour
guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to
pack some food for the day (though there is a snack bar
at the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter,
lasting about 1 hour, after which you are free to explore on
your own and take some much needed time for reflection.
Buses depart back to Auschwitz I every 30 minutes, or
you can walk or catch a cab to the train station (1.5km). At
Auschwitz I there are restrooms (1z), gift shops, a fast food
bar and restaurant (open until 18:00); there are no facilities
at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a
guide, it is highly recommended that you pick up the official
guidebook (5z), whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid
missing any of the key sites.
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name of
Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Poland, particularly to Krakw and Katowice, are
faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make
the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There
are few who would say they actually want to visit Auschwitz,
though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons.
For those of us who dont feel so compelled, its easy to
give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already
knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not
feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history
to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect
of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same
time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can
tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz
are perfectly reasonable until youve actually visited the site;
youll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip
and recommends against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost
makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without
being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented
in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from
full y surrendering to their emotions onl y by the sheer
relentlessness of the information. No matter how much
you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained
by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to
go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be
understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern,
Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical
concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, everyone
should visit.
Sco
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways to
get to Owicim. The easiest may be signing on for a
tour organised by a multitude of Krakw-based tour
companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to
ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transporta-
tion, tickets and general guidance, the organisational
help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion
upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Owicim from the main bus station (E-1, ul. Bosacka
18). The journey takes 1.5 hours and costs 10z. Some
buses will stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, while
others drop off at the Owicim train station. Frequent,
almost hourly trains run between Krakw and Owicim,
with a journey time of 1.5 hours and a cost of about 8z;
note however that early trains to Owicim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich 22)
lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II-
Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 2, 3,
4, 5, 6, 9, 17 and 23 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a 2.20z fare
from the nearest kiosk. During high tourist season (April
15th to November 1st) museum buses shuttle visitors
between the two camps twice an hour (from Auschwitz I
on the hour and at :30 past; from Auschwitz II-Birkenau
at :15 past and :45 past), or catch a cab for 15z. Waiting
minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour can take you back to
Krakw - a group of eight would pay 25-35z/person.
Getting There
122
AUSCHWITZ
prisoners with collections of photographs, artists drawings
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-
breaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazis conducted their first experi-
ments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the
cell of Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to
death after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked
with a small memorial, and tiny standing cells measuring 90
x 90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite
amounts of time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering
of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory
of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with
the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two
furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The
gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in
1947 stands outside. Q Open 08:00-16:30. From March
Open 08:00-18:00. Last entrance 120 minutes before
closing. Admission free or 38/27z for a guided tour of both
camps. Tours for up to 10 people, 243z. For larger groups
275z, plus headphones (5z per person). Film 3.50/2.50z
(free with guided tour).
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Pastwowe Muzeum
Auschwitz - Birkenau) Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 02, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Having completely the long
tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to
visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however its here that the impact
of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and
solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau con-
tained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered
175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on January
20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubber-stamped the
wholesale extermination of European Jews, it grew to become
the biggest and most savage of all the Nazi death factories,
with up to 100,000 prisoners held there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp
still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with 70
per cent of those who arrived herded directly into gas cham-
bers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in squalid,
unheated barracks, overrun with vermin and lice. Starvation,
disease and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With
the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces
of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers
having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb the
tower of the main gate for a full impression of the complexs
size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks used as a quar-
antine area, while across on the left hand side lie numerous
brick barracks which were home to the penal colony and also
the womens camp. At the top of the camp lie the mangled
remains of the crematoria, as well as a bleak monument
unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief guided tour of
the camp, visitors are left to wander and reflect on their
own before catching the return bus to Auschwitz I. Q Open
08:00-17:00. From March Open 08:00-18:30. Last entrance
60 minutes before closing. Admission free or 38/27z for a
guided tour of both camps. Tours for up to 10 people, 243z.
For larger groups 275z, plus headphones (5z per person).
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz -
Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Your
tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of
the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You Free)
entrance gate. The original Arbeit Macht Frei sign was
actually made by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and
is being restored after it was stolen in December 2009 and
found in pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.
From the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads
past the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played
as prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest
inside Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality
behind the worlds most notorious concentration camp is
given, with exhibits including original architectural sketches
for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination
and mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven
tonnes of human hair once destined for German factories,
which does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity
of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of
which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial
limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most af-
fectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are con-
ducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous death
marches. About 15,000 die during this evacuation.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Owicim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it
is visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German
Pope Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th,
2009 thieves steal the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei sign
from above the main entrance gate; the sign is replaced
by a replica, when the original is found in pieces in the
woods in northern PL.
A Brief History
124
TARNW
125
TARNW
Arriving
At the crossroads of two ancient trade routes between
Germany and Ukraine as well as Hungary and the Baltic Sea,
Tarnw is easily reached by road. A good network of train
and bus services running in and out of the city centre also
link Tarnw with many major destinations throughout Poland.
By Bus
A very local affair, everything you need on arrival, with the
exception of anyone who speaks English, can be found inside
the main bus station building. Find toilets (2.50z) downstairs,
a number of kiosks selling snacks and mobile top-up vouchers
and a Tourist Centre (Open 08:00-16:00, Sat 08:00 - 11:30.
Closed Sun) for onward travel on the ground floor, and a snack
bar upstairs. There are no money changing facilities or ATMs,
so if you need cash youll need to go to the train station next
door. To get into town, find taxis parked outside, who will
take you to the Rynek for 8-10z. Bus N9 can be caught on
Krakowska (buy a 2.30z ticket from one of the nearby kiosks),
and heads east along the same street before peeling right and
skirting around the southern edge of the Old Town. A walk into
the centre takes about 15 minutes.
Main Bus Station ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. (+48) 14 688
07 22 ext.18. Q Ticket Office open from the 25th of each
month to the 5th of the following month, 6:30-16:00. This
goes a long way towards explaining why everyone buys their
tickets from the driver.
By Car
Tarnw is close to a number of major road routes in all direc-
tions and is worth considering as a place to stop off for a few
hours or even for the night if youre on a long journey. Only
80km from Krakw, its an easy hours drive east and the
main road filters right into the city centre. Parking is relatively
easy to find, although guarded parking is advisable.
By Train
Tarnw is served by some 40 or so trains every day from
Krakw, with a journey time of between 60 and 90 minutes
depending on whether you take a local or express train. Fol-
lowing an extensive renovation the station building and the
plaza in front have been returned to its former glory and now
includes a kiosk, shop, cafe on the mezzanine level, restaurant
underground and the BWA Gallery. A tourist information point is
also due to be opened in the coming months. The main ticket hall
has also been completely modernised and youll find one of the
two ticket offices is open 24hrs. Local, national and international
tickets can be purchased from there. Walking to the centre will
take about 15 mins, a taxi from outside will cost about 10zl.
Main Train Station Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48) 197
57, www.rozklad.pkp.pl.
Hotels
For a city the size of Tarnw there are a surprisingly diverse
number of places to stay to suit just about all tastes and
budgets. The other great thing about Tarnw is that almost all
of the accommodation is within easy reach of the city centre.
Bristol ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47 74 77,
www.hotelbristol.com.pl. A sumptuous, inter-war feel-
ing of grandeur inside Tarnws classy, four-star hotel, the
immaculate rooms come with minibars, cable television,
arty-looking beds and a choice of en suite facilities with
either a shower or bath. Extras include solarium, gym and a
wonderful honeymoon apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi
and a bright pink bed. Q15 rooms (3 singles 190z, 4 doubles
320z, 2 triples 450z, 4 suites 270 - 380z, 2 apartments
280 - 450z). PTHA6FGKW hhhh
Cristal Park ul. Traugutta 5, tel. (+48) 14 633 12 25,
www.cristalpark.pl. A good 20 minutes west of the centre on
the N9 bus, the Cristal Park is your classic, partially renovated
communist-era behemoth. Avoid the rooms that still await new
furniture and youll be just fine. Features include a lush red
Presidential Suite complete with Jacuzzi, and a range of good
doubles and singles, some with small balconies overlooking the
local speedway track. Add-ons include a sauna and, strangely,
a rather fabulous salt room for some serious therapy. A taxi into
the centre will set you back around 15z. Q93 rooms (39 singles
135 - 198z, 45 doubles 200 - 285z, 5 triples 246 - 279z, 11
apartments 349 - 500z). PTHAR6UGKD hhh
Tarnovia ul. Kociuszki 10, tel. (+48) 14 630 03 50,
www.hotel.tarnovia.pl. One of two communist-era land-
mark hotels in the city, the Tarnovia is both the nearest to
the city centre and the most charming of the two. Built in the
1970s, the hotel is now owned by the staff themselves, giving
the whole place a strange aura of pride that is lacking in many
hotels of a much better standard. Rooms come in a variety of
choices from some startling unrenovated monstrosities to a
range of lovely rooms with cable television, internet access
and great views of the city. Q130 rooms (60 singles 135 -
260z, 66 doubles 170 - 290z, 4 apartments 400 - 480z).
PTHAR6UFKDW hhh
U Jana Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.hote-
lujana.pl. A barrage of oil paintings and a laid-back attitude
on the Rynek, featuring a range of good value suites priced
according to the view. Room facilities include huge beds,
limited cable television, nice wooden floors and erratic show-
ers. An unbeatable location and a good price, but the service
could do with one or two major improvements. Q11 rooms
(11 apartments 135 - 800z). THA6GKW hhh
Eighty kilometres east of
Krakw near the cross-
roads of t wo anci ent
t rade routes l i es t he
charming city of Tarnw.
Fi r st ment i oned i n a
document dated 1124,
the so- cal l ed Pearl of
the Renaissance offers
visitors to southeastern
Pol and a superb base
to discover the weal th
of si ghts i n the regi on
from the comfor t of a
smal l town wi th a bi g
hi story. Bri mmi ng wi th
wonderfully preserved Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance
architecture, Tarnw boasts a rich, colourful and often
disturbing past, from the Scottish settlers who arrived
in the 16th century to set up the first banks to the large
Jewish population who contributed so much to the li fe and
culture of the city and who were wiped out in the flicker of
an eye a mere two generations ago. The once privately
owned city and home to the illustrious, avant-garde noble-
man Jan Tarnowski, Tarnw was the first Polish city to free
itsel f from 146 years of captivity in October 1918. Rapidly
gaining a reputation as a noteworthy tourist destination,
todays Tarnw strikes the perfect balance between history
and modernity, offering a less hectic and more intimate
alternative to its large and noisy neighbour to the west.
Willa Krzyska ul. Krzyska 52b, tel. (+48) 14 620
11 34, www.willakrzyska.pl. A choice of seven bright
and modern rooms and apartments wi th a di sti nctl y
business-class hotel feel to them inside a villa-like build-
ing 15 minutes north of the city centre, facilities include
card-operated security, broadband internet, cable televi-
sion, a splendid apartment with a big bath and kitchen,
guarded parki ng and a rel axi ng garden. Popul ar wi th
business travellers during the week, booking in advance
is highly recommended. Taxis in and out of the centre
cost about 10z. Alternatively, the N6 and N15 buses
go right past the front door. Q7 rooms (6 singles 205 -
245z, 6 doubles 245 - 285z, 1 apartments 275 - 305z).
HARGKW hhh
Restaurants
Its going to be a good few years until Tarnw can compete
with the likes of Parisian cuisine or the nightli fe of Madrid,
but this doesnt mean that disappointment awaits. Far
from it in fact. The compact city centre, especially the
area around the Rynek, is actually overflowing with good
bars, cafs, restaurants and clubs. During the hot sum-
mer months all four sides of the main square spring to
li fe, creating a wonderful atmosphere to sit and watch
the world go by at a number of good outdoor terraces.
As well as the cafs and restaurants listed here, nightli fe
is also well represented. The patchwork of tiny streets
directl y east of the Rynek are packed wi th interesting
bars, and the city is also home to several nightclubs, of
which Grawitacja at ul. Mocickiego 8 and Wall Street
at Pl. Winiw Owicimia 1 are considered by those in
the know to be two of the best.
Bombaymusic ul. Krakowska 11a, tel. (+48) 14
627 07 60, www.bombay.rix.pl. The true test of an
Indian restaurant is what greets the ol factory nerves on
entering. At Bombay i ts, unfortunatel y, a li ttl e lacking
in spi ciness. Decorated wi th pi ctures of j azz musi cians
on the walls and featuring a di verse menu of not j ust
Chi cken Tikka (theres Polish and Chi nese food i f you
want i t as wel l ), they do at l east of fer some I ndi an
food, whi ch is a pl easant surprise indeed, even i f the
food isn t qui te up to the standard youd expect from
your usual Indian restaurant. Find i t tucked away in the
basement of the Dom Handlowy Krakus shopping centre.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (15-60z).
PTAUEGSW
Forum ul. Wekslarska 9, tel. (+48) 14 620 11 11,
www.pi zzaf orum.pl. One of Tarnws bet ter pi zza
restaurants just off the Rynek, the somewhat dark and
slightly feminine interior betrays a wide range of good piz-
zas plus a small selection of other dishes including steak
and pierogi. Good, friendly, English-speaking waitresses
finish the whole affair off rather nicely. QOpen 11:00 -
23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (14-30z).
PTUVGS
Pasa Pl. Kazimierza Wlk. 2, tel. (+48) 14 627 82 78,
www.pasaz.tarnow.pl. Hidden, as the name implies, inside
a passage between the Rynek and the street of the address,
the very swanky Pasa is a much talked-about local favourite
serving a whole host of hearty food including tenderloin in
spicy cheese sauce au gratin with spinach ravioli - or - trout fil-
lets with sauerkraut in zabaglione sauce served with roasted
potatoes. As mouth-watering as it sounds, the international
dishes dont quite hit the mark as hard as the Polish fare,
which really is very good indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(13-37z). PA6UVGSW
Tarnovia ul. Kociuszki 10, tel. (+48) 14 630 03
50, www.hotel.tarnovia.pl. A glorious blast to the past
experience, the Tarnovia hotels ground floor in-house
restaurant offers a limited menu of classic Polish dishes
and the opportunity to get sloshed at the bar in the type of
surroundings that will soon be a thing of the past. Be sure
to check out the superb glass wall in the dining area at the
back. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:30. (12-
65z). PTAUVSW
Tatrzaska ul. Krakowska 1, tel. (+48) 14 622 46
36, www.kudelski.pl. A very friendly and relaxed affair,
featuring English-speaking waiters in bow ties and a classy
menu. Among the extravagant-sounding dishes on offer are
the recommended beef Tartar, Polish mountain cheese and
scampi in brandy sauce. Theres a fine dessert menu too, all
wrapped up in a fine ambience of potted palms and paint-
ings of the nearby Tartra Mountains. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
(18-45z). PTAUEXSW
What to see
Tarnw boasts an extraordinarily well-preserved Old Town,
has one of the finest market squares in southern Poland,
and hides a wealth of unique buildings and places of interest.
With its rich Jewish history, superb churches and outstanding
museums, theres enough to see and do to justify spending
at least one night in the city. A longer stay would also allow
you to fully explore a city that features many other remarkable
sights, from traditional wooden-roofed houses to a diverse
selection of attention-grabbing monuments and statues.
Tarnws geographical position also makes it an attractive
base for exploring the many impressive sights within an hour
or twos drive. A trip to the citys Tourist Information Centre
also comes highly recommended. As well as being able to
keep you informed of the latest events in Tarnw and the
surrounding region, they can also provide supplementary,
and often more in-depth information to whats available here.
Following 3 years work and 42 million PLN in investment,
Tarnows train station reopened on November 13, 2010.
While the original character of the building was retained,
it has been converted into a modern passenger centre
with all the services a modern station requires. The
original building was designed by E. Baudisch and of-
ficially opened on November 24th, 1910. Of interest are
a series of paintings by Edmund Cieszkiewicz showing
the Tatra and Pieniny mountains which were funded by
the early train owners over a century ago.
Tarnw Gwny
www.pkp.pl
126
TARNW
127
TARNW
Churches
Cathedral Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 58 85,
www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the
14th century wi th maj or addi ti ons and rebuil ds in the
15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the
Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and
one of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate as
one of the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of
note is the 16th-century portal, six 16th-century Renais-
sance monuments to the Tarnowski family, a number of
extraordi nary pai nti ngs and the i mpressi ve, 72-metre
tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in
one of Tarnws many rambling back streets. Some nice
recent additions are also evident, including the fabulously
ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the
building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 20:30. No
Holy Trinity Church (Koci w. Trjcy) ul.
Tuchowska 5, tel. (+48) 14 626 88 85. Of the 50 or
so wooden churches in the Tarnw region, two can be
found insi de the ci ty. This li ttl e Gothi c marvel was buil t
between 1595 and 1597. Of parti cular interest insi de
is the extraordinary painting above the main al tar, the
Throne of Grace, which depicts God as having six fingers
on his l eft hand, representing the number of days i t took
Him to create the Earth. Q Open during mass and by
prior arrangement.
St. Marys Church (Sanktuarium Matki Boej
Szkaplerznej) ul. Najwitszej Marii Panny 1, tel.
(+48) 14 621 31 75. A beauti ful little Gothic larch wood
church consecrated in 1462, the first thing you notice is
the extraordinary smell of, not surprisingly, wood. The tiny
inside hides a feast of delights, including a 16th-century
painting of Our Lady of the Scapular above the altar, painted
flowers on the ceiling, a miniature organ and a few remain-
ing touches of the original hand-painted wall paintings. Q
Open Thu, Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-14:00 and by prior
arrangement.
Jewish Tarnw
The Jewish Cemetery Junction of ul. Soneczna
and ul. Matki Boej Fatimskiej. A 10-mi nute wal k
north of the Old Town, this cemetery was established in
the early 1580s and is one of the oldest and largest in
Poland. With several thousand gravestones, almost all
of them untouched by the Nazis, the Jewish Cemetery is
a haunting albeit necessary part of any visit to Tarnw.
Seriously overgrown in places, some areas near the main
entrance can still be easily reached, and there are even
signs in English marking a few of the graveyards more
eminent souls. Near the entrance is a large memorial to
the Jews of Tarnw, built from one of the columns of the
citys destroyed New Synagogue. The cemeterys original
gates are now in Washingtons Holocaust Museum, and
their replacements are kept firmly locked, however it is
possible to borrow a key by leaving a 25z deposit at the
Tourist Information Centre at Rynek 7 (open 08:00-18:00,
Sat 09:00-17:00. Closed Sun).
Museums
Di ocesan Museum (Muzeum Di ecezjal ne)
Pl. Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.
muzeum.diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late
John Paul II, the Church needs art to better understand
what li es insi de the soul of man, and Tarnws superb
Di ocesan Museum, established i n 1888, does a very
good j ob at doi ng j ust that. An astonishi ng coll ecti on
of reli gious art from the 15th century onwards, housed
insi de an equall y wonder ful ensembl e of 16th-century
houses, highlights include some truly breathtaking Gothic
triptychs and sculptures from Maopolska, a collection of
church fabri cs from the Mi ddl e Ages and a few pi eces of
19th-century reli gious folk art. A marvell ous and hi ghl y
recommended experience. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00
- 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-14:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free.
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
ul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl. As well as highlighting local ethno-
graphic traditions this better than average collection includes
a large celebration of Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is allegedly
the only such collection in Europe. A really remarkable exhibi-
tion tracing Roma culture in Tarnw from its beginnings in
the 15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and
beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhibition include
some excellent models, costumes and photographs, all of
which are best seen with the aid of a small and very good
booklet, The Gypsies, written by the museums curator
Adam Bartosz and available in English for just 3z. There are
still about 350 Roma living in Tarnw, and their culture is still
very much alive. In the museums back garden find several
traditional painted Roma caravans. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00,
Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat.
Admission 5/3z. Sun free.
Tarnw District Museum (Ratusz) Rynek 1, tel.
(+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Worth
a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraor-
dinary collection of exhibits on two floors includes among
other delights a celebration of local hero Jzef Bem, glass,
porcelain and silver, and the most extensive collection of
18th-century Sarmatian portraits in the country. Sarmatism
was a beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that
predominated the Polish nobility from the 16th to the 19th
century. Based on the mistaken and rather entertaining belief
that Poles were descended from the Sarmatians, a loose
confederation of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism
evolved over the centuries from a set of values based on
pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed
horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity
for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches.
Unfortunately the Town Hall is currently closed for renova-
tions which are speculated to continue until the spring of
2011. In the meantime, theres a temporary exhibit open at
Rynek 20/21, for which the listed hours apply. Admission
4/2z. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Tue 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat.
Tourist Information Centre Rynek 7, tel. (+48)
14 688 90 90, www.go- tarnow.com. Fri endl y,
knowledgeable English-speaking staff, a wide range of
free information on Tarnw and the surrounding region,
free internet, a few souvenirs and bicycle rental. Also
available are nine audio guides to the main sights which
can be downloaded from the website or hired along with
a small MP3 player. The nice people here also have
good value accommodation in the same building and
can give you information and advice on the million other
good things to do. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun.
Tourist Information
Rynek & The Old Town
Retaining its original layout of a raised central area of lat-
ticed streets and central market square (Rynek) reached
by stairways from a lower, oval-shaped encompassing loop
that was once the original city walls and defensive towers,
Tarnws exemplary Old Town began life in the 14th century,
although most of what now stands dates from later on. Its
crowning glory is the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded
on all four sizes by some fine Renaissance merchant houses
dating from the 16th to the 18th century. At the centre of the
Rynek stands the Town Hall, a lovely 15th-century building
originally constructed in the Gothic style and remodelled at
the end of the 16th century in a classic Renaissance man-
ner, and topped off with an idiosyncratic, 30-metre pointed
tower. Small compared to its vast cousin 80km to the west,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish
section to the east, one remaining defensive tower and a
pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge and
featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number of
appealing statues. Complete with a multitude of good bars
and restaurants, the Old Town is the main social nucleus
of the city, and has a really warm and welcoming appeal.
Further afield
Once upon a time the people of the small village of Zalipie
some 30km or so north of Tarnw had no chimneys in
their cottages. The smoke from the cottage fires, with no
chimneys to leave by, would slowly blacken the internal
cottage walls. Before important reli gious holi days the
ladies of Zalipie would paint lime over the blackened walls,
but when progress gave the good folk of Zalipie chimneys
the necessity to paint the walls died out. By this time the
lime painting had developed into a village tradition, and
with the aid of coloured paint and the borrowing of local
folk art moti fs it evolved into a unique art form that saw
both the insides and outsides of many of the cottages in
the village ablaze with extraordinary floral patterns. During
the 1930s the fame of the village spread, and in 1948 the
first competition to choose the best-painted cottage began.
An annual event since 1965, the weekend following Corpus
Christi sees the villages best 20 or so painters (still almost
exclusively women) applying new designs to their cottages,
wells, and even dog kennels in an attempt to create the
most original and creative designs. An otherwise ordinary,
rather sleepy village, Zalipie has become a popular destina-
tion for tourists visiting the region throughout the year, and
is well worth a visit.
The oldest salt mine in Europe and Polands most ancient
industrial site, Bochnia, some 45km southwest of Tarnw,
has been in continuous operation since 1248. Less well
known than the regions Wieliczka mine, Bochnia is no less
impressive, and unlike Wieliczka offers visitors the chance to
see a working mine as well as enjoy its many tourist attrac-
tions. A visit to Bochnia involves a hair-raising, ear-popping
subterranean adventure 200 metres below the ground,
where you can explore its winding maze of chambers, visit
the mines museum, spend the night in its very own hotel
and even celebrate New Year there. The recognised healing
qualities of salt also offers visitors the chance to extend
their stay and take in the mines so-called Inhalation Holiday.
More information about both of the out of town destinations
mentioned here, as well as hundreds of other fascinating
sights including the regions 50 or so wooden churches, the
nearby castle and the many rural breaks on offer can be
obtained from the nice people at Tarnws Tourist Informa-
tion Centre.
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LEISURE
129
LEISURE
occupying the front room, this is still an exciting outing for
kids complete with touch-screen info stations, touch tanks
and educational programs. Go fish. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 60
minutes before closing. Admission for children ages 3 to 16
is 13,50z, adults 19,50z, family ticket (2 parents, 2 kids)
59z. Children 2 and under enter for free.
Park Wodny (Water Park) L-1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza
126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.parkwodny.pl.
The biggest indoor pool complex in Poland includes 800
metres of water slides for all ages, dragon and pirate play
areas, massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines,
swings and other in-water activites, this incredible aquatic
playground is the thing your kid will remember most about
Krakw. You wont have such a bad time yourself with ac-
cess to saunas, jacuzzis, fitness and wellness centres and
a pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors
try to dunk each other. Prices to the pool vary but are in the
range of 16-22z for one hour, and 35-49z for day access.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Climbing
Forteca Climbing Centre H-1, ul. Racawicka 60, tel.
(+48) 12 632 83 33, www.cwf.pl. Separate sections for
pros and beginners, instruction offered, available for events.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Access to climbing wall from 10:00-
15:00, 15/9z; after 15:00, 20/12z.
Korona Rock Gym J - 5, ul . Kal waryj ska 9- 15
(Podgrze), tel. (+48) 605 20 45 32, www.wspinanie.
korona.krakow.pl. Krakws best rock gym. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. Access to climbing wall from 12:00-14:00,
10z; after 14:00, 20z.
Extreme Sports
Laser Arena I- 4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28 (Hotel
Forum), tel. (+48) 604 42 31 74, www.laserarena.
pl. Finally the Hotel Forum (that unsightly behemoth on the
riverfront across from Skaka) has been put to good use.
Run amock in this unfinished and abandoned communist
shipwreck dodging laser beams and zapping adversaries.
Laser Arena uses a computer system to register hits from
the virtual bullets in a safe, simulated gunfight within this
highly unique setting. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. 15min - 15z/person; 30min - 25z; 1hr - 40z. Stu-
dents 15% off. Happy hour discounts, weekdays 16:00-17:00.
Safe War Al. Kasztanowa 1 (Wola Justowska), tel.
(+48) 505 16 55 63, www.paintball-krakow.pl. In
addition to paintball, these local heroes organise quads
within closer proximity to Krakows centre than anyone else.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Prices negotiable.
Fitness Clubs & Gyms
Orodek Edukacyjny Zdrowie i Uroda D- 6, ul.
Miodowa 21, tel. (+48) 12 421 95 34, www.osrode-
kedukacyjnykrakow.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 16:00. 23z per visit, 160z for monthly pass.
Tribal Fitness C-1, ul. w. Filipa 9a, tel. (+48) 12 632
68 48, www.tribalfitness.pl. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 08:30 - 12:00. Admission 25z.
Wellness Club Park Wodny L-1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza
126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 56, www.parkwodny.pl.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Cue Bar K-2, ul. Mogilska 35, tel. (+48) 12 417 22 10,
www.cuebar.pl. Krakws first proper billiards bar, Cue Bar
takes it seriously. Judging by the prices, maybe a little too
seriously. Eight tables in total: three professional snooker
tables (18z/hr), three eight-foot pool tables (one in the gar-
den), and two nine-foot pool tables in the attic (15-17z/hr).
And beer, of course. Call if youre interested in tournaments
or private lessons. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00.
Fantasy Park L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 95
15, www.fantasypark.pl. The citys best bowling lanes, an
arcade, billiards and rumpus room for the kids. Take trams 1,
14 or 22, getting off at Krakw Plaza. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00.
Hotel Wilga I-5, ul. Przedwionie 16, tel. (+48) 12
294 44 29, www.hotel.wilga.krakow.pl. The only hotel
in Krakw with a bowling alley. Located in Podgrze, this new
offer features two lanes, billiards and a bar, all ideal for private
parties. Reserve in advance to ensure availability. QOpen
16:00 - 23:00. Bowling one hour game 50-60z. Bilard 10z.
Childrens Attractions
Krakw Aquarium D-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 10 49, www.aquariumkrakow.com. Oc-
cupying the lower levels of the Natural History Museum, this
2000 square metre marvel features not just fish but dozens
of lizards, monkeys, turtles, tropical frogs,venomous snakes
and most recently a new area with spiders and insects.
Though weve now lost hope of ever witnessing the comple-
tion of the bad-ass 90,000 litre shark tank that should be
Ice Skating
Esem Origo K-2, ul. Eisenberga 2, tel. (+48) 12 418
41 56, www.lodowisko-krakow.pl. Tickets for a 1,5 hour
skate around cost 9/7z. Skate rental 6z/1,5hr. Q Open
Sat, Sun 10:00-21:30. Please check website for weekday
schedule.
MKS Cracovia E-4, ul. Siedleckiego 7, tel. (+48) 12
292 91 00, www.cracovia.pl. Behind Hala Targowa, this
ice rink is open to the public when regular peewee hockey
games arent happening. Check the website or call first.
Best time to try is generally in the evenings. Q 10/8z for
1.5 hours, 7-8z skate rental, 2z cloak room fee.
Indoor Playgrounds
Bajkoland K-3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48) 608 41
11 54, www.bajkoland.pl. On the top floor of Galeria Ka-
zimierz, Bajkoland gives parents an opportunity to unsaddle
themselves of the kids (ages 2-7 only) in this supervised
rumpus room while they get some gift shopping or simple
relaxation time. Ball pits, slides, mega blocks and more
padded surfaces to get the little ones ready for the nap on
the way back to the hotel. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00
- 20:00. 5z for 15min, 9z/30min, 15z/hr.
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu.
This fabulous two-level 60 square metre kids rumpus palace
features a ball pit, slides and more and is free for guests to
the Pod Wawelem restaurant. Theres even a babysitter on
weekends from 12:00-19:00 to watch the little ones while
you clink steins to a well-deserved parental recess. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
Cracovia H- 3, ul. Kauy 1, tel.
(+48) 12 427 35 62, www.cracovia.
pl. While most tickets cost as little as
10-15zl and there is a big family sector
where women and children under 12 only
pay 1zl we recommend you head for the
VIP seats which cost 60zl or the adjacent blocks E, F, G,
H where you can get a ticket for 20-25zl. Cracovia take
security very seriously, operating 280 cameras, and to
buy a ticket you will need to have a club ID. Get that by
visiting the ticket office with your passport and they will
then create an ID for you. The following are Cracovias
upcoming home games but may be subject to change
depending on television schedules:
February 26 - Legia Warsaw
March 12 - Lech Pozna
March 19 - Korona Kielce
QTicket office open from Monday during the week pre-
ceding games. 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00
or until the match begins.
Cracovia
wikipasy.pl
Wisa Krakow G-2, ul. Reymonta
22, tel. (+48) 12 623 95 95, www.
wisla.krakow.pl. Foreign fans are rec-
ommended to head for the pricey seats
in Sector E of the stand on ul. Reymonta
where you can expect to pay 40-50zl.
Tickets can be purchased during the
week from the Wilacki wiat shop next
to the stadium as some games are all-ticket.Note you will
need to have your passport or driving licence with you to
both buy and enter the stadium. Upcoming home fixtures
subject to change depending on television schedules:
March 5 - Ruch Chorzw
March 12 - Widzew d
Wisa Krakow
Maks Michalczak/www.wisla.krakow.pl
Skiing
Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Pacztowice
328, tel. (+48) 12 258 85 00, www.krakow-valley.
com. On of fer are 3 ski li fts of 100m, 360m and 650m.
One trip costs 2/3z whil e a 2-hour pass costs 20-25z
or 30z at weekends. Full equipment rental also avail -
abl e wi th pri ces ranging from 25z for up to 2 hours to
35z for all day. Snowmobil e hi re al so avail abl e (90z
for 30 minutes, 160z for 60 minutes or 120/220z at
weekends). To reach them youll ei ther need a car or
take a train from Krakw to Krzeszowi ce ( j ourney takes
20 minutes) and then a pri vate bus to Pacz towi ce (7
minutes). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Sleigh rides
Ecotravel M-2, Os. Niepodlegoci 3a/5a (Nowa
Huta), tel. (+48) 12 681 36 92, www.ecotravel.pl.
Something which is great fun in winter is to hare through
the countryside on a horse drawn sleigh to a mid-forest
bonfire with grilled sausages and vodka to wash it down.
Heres a company that organise such sleigh rides in the
Ojcw National Park. Included in the price of the sleigh ride
are torches, the bonfire with sausages and hot wine/or tea
(you can bring along your own vodka). They can tailor a tour
to your requirements taking in, for example, the Kazimierz
Castle ruins. Rides take approximately one hour with prices
ranging from 65-100z depending on the number of people.
English speaking staff are available QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
130
LEISURE
131
SHOPPING
While Krakw cannot be considered a shoppers paradise in the
traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great place to
pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of note include
Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly Plac Targowy
(Hala Targowa, E-4). For typical Krakowian souvenirs head to
the Cloth Hall in the centre of the main square (C-3): find all
manner of glasswork, lace, amber, wood carvings, local sweets
and stuffed dragons. For the generic western experience you
can hit one of the shopping malls we list, however throughout
this section weve made a concentrated effort to focus not on
recognised, international brands and franchises, but unique,
homegrown businesses; so we encourage you to put your
money where their mouth is. As this is PL, remember most
shops close early on Saturday and take Sunday off altogether.
24-hour Shops
Kefirek C-4, ul. Grodzka 46, tel. (+48) 12 433 75 20,
www.kefirek.pl.
Oczko C-6, ul. Stradomska 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 41.
Alcohol
Nothing says, Ive been to Poland like a suitcase of vodka (and
maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can
make a legitimate claim as the spirits primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if
its not to your taste. You cant walk a block in this city without
passing a church and an alcohol shop, so youve your choice
of temples. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands youll
find in fancy gift sets, but dont miss ubrwka (bison grass
vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), odkowa Gorzka
(bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature
gold flakes. Thats quite a shopping list.
CRACOW
25 Grodzka Street,
phone: + 48 (12) 421 11 34
www.redrubin.pl
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Szambelan C-3, ul. Gobia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka
9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Huge se-
lection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absynths decanted
from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for
ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto
fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage (or
strolling the Planty). Sample first, sample often. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12
617 02 50, www.vinoteka13.pl. An elite and elaborate
selection of wines from all over Italy. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Wine Garage H-1, ul. Jzefitw 8, tel. (+48) 606 74
55 47, www.biowina.pl. A unique and rather exceptional
collection of organic and sustainable wines, hailing from
monasteries and independent vintners. Probably the most
exciting wine shop youve been in. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
Amber
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland. Poland is
renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who handsomely
shape the fossilised resin into unique and coveted pieces of
jewellery. Come back from PL without bringing baby some Bal-
tic Gold and youve booked yourself a stint in the doghouse.
The best place to begin is the Cloth Hall in the center of the
market square, where prices are surprisingly competitive, or
visit any of the many galleries around the Old Town.
Amber Room B-3, ul. Wilna 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 77
93, www.amberroom.pl. This upscale amber jewellery
gallery just off the main square also offers fine gold and
diamond jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Spa & Beauty
Krysztaowe SPA (Crystal Spa) H-5, ul. Kobierzyska
47 (Sympozjum Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 261 86 65, www.
krysztalowespa.pl. If youre looking for something special
to do for yoursel f or your spouse, Krysztalowes Crystal
Hamman treatment is a bankable option: three phases of
relaxation including a salt peel, steam bath and full body oil
massage for 200z (75min). A large variety of additional face
and body treatments are available, as well as manicures and
pedicures, Turkish bath, Finnish sauna, and mud bath with
light- and aromatherapy. Located on a quiet street tucked
between Dbniki and Podgrze. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Vanilla SPA H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. This
luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star Niebieski hotel
is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a
variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your
skin through a series of peels and masks using top of line
cosmetics and munch on organic bio snacks courtesy of
the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam
bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to
have the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal
care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Yoga
Yoga International J-2, ul. w. Marka 34, tel. (+48)
692 41 41 47, www.yogainternational.com.pl. Regular
bilingual classes (English and Polish) in Krakws city cen-
tre. Classes take place at ul. w. Marka 34 (D-4), Mon
17:45 - 20:30, Tue 18:15 - 20:30, Thu 19:00 - 20:30 and
twice a week at ul. Podbrzezie 6 (J-6) on Wed 16:45-17:45,
19:00-20:00.
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre
E- 4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.
pl/krakow/thai-massage-cracow.
html. Authentic Thai massages: im-
prove blood and limphatic circulation,
release physical and mental tension, strengthen the
immune system, improve flexibility of joints, remove
toxins. Performed solely by highly qualified Thai mas-
seuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The offer:
Classical Thai massage, Herbal compresses, Relaxing
massage with essential oils, Massage for the physi-
cally active, Feetnlegs reflexology, Back & shoulders &
head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount when you
present this coupon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Massages
100-300z.
Dharma Spa & Mas-
sage Centre B- 2, ul.
Siemiradzkiego 20A/4,
tel . (+48) 12 423 00
58/(+48) 669 68 98 86,
www.dharmaspa.pl. Dharma Spa was created for
those seeking a place for the renewal of body and soul,
reaching harmony and tranquility through the use of natu-
ral medicine techniques. Highly qualified therapists from
Bali perform professional procedures and massages
including aromatherapeutic relaxation massage, classic
Thai massage, classic Bali massage, Swedish massage
with oils, reflexology, Hawaiian lomi lomi massage by
two therapists, and nurturing services for the body
and face with natural products. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 80-300z.
132
SHOPPING
133
SHOPPING
House Of Albums D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 25, tel. (+48)
12 429 13 63, www.houseofalbums.pl. Exclusively selling
handsome (though expensive) coffeetable books, many of
which are in English, this is the best place to buy photography
books which will prove to everyone back home how beautiful
PL is. Also a great place to kill time on a rainy day as everyone
seems to use it more like a library than a bookshop. Do they
even have coffeetables in PL? QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Massolit Books & Cafe A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. (+48)
12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. The best bookstore
in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique cafe
atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising in
Polish literature in English (and the only English language kids
books around), here youll also find recent English language
periodicals (store copies) to peruse over drip coffee and a slice
of pie, or a glass of wine in their new wine room. Stocked with
remaindered books from the States, the selection is surpris-
ingly good, and the prices are the best youll find anywhere. This
legendary establishment has been long-running but constantly
needs and deserves support. Still if youre on a budget you can
trade the novel you finished on the train here for credit towards
a new one. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can be
found in Krakws shopping malls. High quality brands include
Reserved, Tru Trussardi, Vistula and Tatuum (which also
has a store at Rynek Gwny 37, C-3). All over Krakw youll
find secondhand clothing stores marked Tania Odzie
(Cheap Clothes). These stores range in quality, from items
sorted in dishevelled bins to others on actual hangers; many
are priced by weight and all have that distinctive embalmed
babcia smell. A weekly clothing market occurs Sundays on
Plac Nowy (D-6), while the Centrum Handlowe in Podgrze
(off al. Powstacw Wielkopolskich, K/L-5) is a massive
outdoor market of cheap wearable goods on weekends
until about 15:00.
Flowers
Lads, listen up. In concert with the societal consensus
that Polish women are beautiful, the countrys daughters
have been duti fully trained to wield their sex in the form
of elaborate and flirtatious gender games, and you will be
expected to play along. One of the most important of these
involves the presentation of flowers to your muse and her
mother at almost every opportunity. The rules of this game
are arbitrarily complex and antiquated but transpire to the
effect of what follows: Always give an odd number of flow-
ers (or stems) unless the occassion is a solemn one and
remove the paper before you arrive. Red is for love; pink
is for potential mothers-in-law and a good neutral fallback
colour when youre unsure of protocol; yellow is for envy
and should probably be avoided. You cant go wrong with
roses, chrysanthemums are for the dead and carnations
are unpopular due to lingering communist connotations. The
rest is on you; good luck and welcome to the 18th century.
In Krakw youll find floral studios on practically every block.
Cut flowers can also be bought on the main market square
and all the open-air locations listed under Markets.
Eva Klimek Floral Concept Store A-2, ul. Rajska
20, tel. (+48) 600 41 43 25, www.evaklimek.pl. One of
the best for original, creative and unconventional bouquets
and arrangements. Wedding and interior arrangement spe-
cialists. Visit the shop for gifts and inspiration or have your
request delivered. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Galleries
If shopping for art or antiques, Kazimierzs ul. Jzefa (D/E-6) is a
good place to start, home to numerous contemporary commer-
cial galleries. See the Culture section for more art gallery listings.
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery C-2, ul. w. Jana 14, tel. (+48) 12
421 71 04, www.mleczko.pl. These anti-establishment, often
blasphemous, damn funny cartoons by Polands favourite cartoon-
ist Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you know
(if you speak Polish, that is). Ideal for Polish friends and family, here
you can buy prints, mugs, shirts, underwear, mouse pads and
more. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Niuans C-3, Rynek Gwny 39/40, tel. (+48)
12 429 54 46, www.galerianiuans.pl. A Rynek located
gallery offering high end home decor, china, glass, silver,
crystal as well as blankets, linen and candles. Top names
and exclusive distribution rights on many items make this
the perfect place to put together that wedding list. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Osobliwoci ESTE (ESTE Curiosities
Gallery) C-4, ul. Grodzka 36, tel. (+48) 12 429 19 84.
Perhaps in need of its own category, this charming curiosi-
ties shop is full to brimming with gems, not junk: Polish art
prints, fossils and minerals, African masks, amber jewellery
and more. Great place to geek out on a rainy day. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Plakatu (Poster Gallery) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.
com. Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film
and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs for differ-
ent plays, various propaganda and alternative film posters you
never knew existed for your favourite flicks. Many are in stock
and many more available to order. They make fantastic gifts and
keepsakes, or go cheap by buying a stack of unusual postcards.
QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Red Rubin (Red Ruby) C-4, ul. Grodzka 25, tel. (+48)
12 421 11 34, www.redrubin.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Schubert Gallery C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 14, www.jubilerschubert.pl. Also on ul. Floriaska
13 (C-3) and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Centre).
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Antiques
Antiques make a popular, comparably affordable purchase
in Poland, and Krakw is full of opportunities. In fact, its a
common racket to score antiquated obscurities here, triple
the price and re-sell them in the UK or elsewhere. There are
antique stores (Antyki, Antykwariat) all over Kazimierz
and the Old Town with one of the best places to prowl for
lost treasure being ulica Jzefa (D/E-6) in Kazimierz. Plac
Nowy (D-6) has daily junk-peddlers, but the real goldmine
is Hala Targowas Sunday morning flea market (E-4) where
haggling is compulsory. Remember, i f you are taking art
produced before 1945 out of the country, youll need the
proper paperworks and permissions. Most proper dealers
can provide this straight-away, but you may want to check.
Happy hunting.
Books, Music & Films
For native English speakers a pilgrimage to Massolit is
obligatory. Rightfully adopted as an expat cultural centre, its
a great place to meet people and home to helpful message
boards offering expat services. Look no further.
American Bookstore E-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria
Krakowska), tel. (+48) 12 628 75 73, www.american-
bookstore.pl. Your best bet outside cyberspace for getting
the latest Harry Potter book, Grisham thriller or Stephen
King creeper in its original language, this small store in the
Galeria is generally preoccupied with the bestsellers list.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Gwny 5, tel. (+48)
12 429 41 62, www.empik.com. Right on the market
square, Empik is a veri table one-stop shop for books,
music, films, video games and more. A sizeable collection
of English-language periodicals lives on the ground floor,
though the price mark-ups can be shocking; read them
in the cafe upstairs. On the upper floors youll find guide
books, maps and an English language fiction section, as
well as video game consoles for rainy days on the top floor.
The basement houses a generally shabby, but also totally
unpredictable selection of overpriced CDs and here you can
also buy tickets to major concerts and festivals in PL. Also
on ul. Podgrska 34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Pawia 5
(D-1, Galeria Krakowska). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase val ue wi th VAT per Tax
Refund Cheque is 200pln. Keep the
Tax Refund Cheque, have it stamped
when leaving the final point of departure from the EU
and take your money back. For full details check www.
global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
Produced and distributed by T.R.S. Evolution Spa - Ph. +39 059 421511 - Polska: TRS Polska Sp. z o.o., Ph. 022 636 60 16 - www.trussardi.com
Biaystok, Bydgoszcz, Czstochowa, Gdask, Gdynia, Katowice, Krakw,
Pozna, Szczecin, Warszawa, Wrocaw
134
SHOPPING
135
SHOPPING
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48) 12
423 81 59, www.krakowskikredens.pl. An old-fashioned
dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite, Galician delica-
cies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured meats, candies
and pickled things. A warm roll with their sliced pork and
mustard from the streetside window is a gourmet street food
bargain at only 6-8z (depending on weight), while we can also
recommend the black pudding (kaszanka) and the pork hock
(golonka). Also at ul. Kamiskiego 11 (Bonarka City Centre)
and ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska). QOpen 10:00 -
19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Naturalny Sklepik A-2, ul. Krupnicza 8, tel. (+48) 12
422 96 83. This gorgeous shop tucked in a lovely garden
courtyard is the best place in Krakw to find natural, organic
products and ingredients unavailable elsewhere, including
herbs, nuts, grains, spices, vegetables, and culinary products
from China, Japan, India, Latin America and more. Also a wide
range of natural cosmetic and beauty products, as well as
ecological cleaning supplies. Recommended. QOpen 09:00
- 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Produkty Benedyktyskie (Benedictine Prod-
ucts) D-6, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16,
www.benedicite.pl. This shop, set up by and in support
of the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an
astounding variety of products - cheese, jam, wine, beer,
honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two eyebrows
over how they find the time. All the products are completely
natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excellent. They
make excellent gifts and can even be purchased through
their multilingual website - a revelation which ironically puts
the Benedictines at the forefront of the global marketplace
compared to other Krakowian companies. Their empire also
extends to ul. Zwierzyniecka 10 (B-4). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Sweets
Ciasteczka z Krakowa C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 21, tel.
(+48) 12 423 22 27, www.ciasteczkazkrakowa.pl. Local
sweets shop superpower selling cookies, cakes, chocolates,
wafers, pralines, truffles and fudge with a lovely cafe for cof-
fee or tea. Also on ul. Stradomska 19 (C-6). QOpen 09:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Ciuciu B-3, ul. Gobia 3, tel. (+48) 502 73 67 58,
www.ciuciu.pl. Touting themselves as the worlds small-
est candy factory, this shop is indeed eeny-weeny and
completely charming. Ciuciu specialises in personalised hard
candies and bonbons, adding your small logo, inscription or
pattern to the flavour and colours of your choice. Versatility
is limited, but this is a pretty great gift idea. Or drop in and
see what theyve got prepared already; free sample almost
guaranteed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Kopernik C-4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13
06, www.kopernik.com.pl. A traditional dating back to the
15th century, Toru gingerbread is world-renowned and you
can purchase their range of novelty sweets in Krakw at this
enticing shop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Wawel C-3, Rynek Gwny 33, tel. (+48) 12 423 12
47, www.wawel.com.pl. Traditional Krakw chocolate and
confectionary since 1898, producing the local specialties
Mieszanka Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krwka, Malaga and
more. Also at ul. Kalwaryjska 19-21 (I-5). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Markets
Krakws open-air markets are the best places to get cheap
local produce and the only places in the centre where you
can buy vegetables that arent white. Add to that meats,
cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs, dog leashes,
pagers, potholders and literally anything else you can think
of and youve got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well.
Practice your Prosz and point skills at the unique shopping
environments listed below.
Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Hala Tar-
gowas Sunday flea market, its uselessly rude at any of the
daily market stalls. Expecting vendors to break a 100 zoty
note will also be met with utter disdain.
Plac Nowy D- 6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59, www.
placnowy.pl. This historic square was a Jewish market
in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today youll still find butcher shops inside,
while fast food windows line the exterior. In the open trading
stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce is sold daily, with
junk vendors occupying the smaller adjacent square. Its a
di fferent, often unpredictable scene on the square each
morning, but Saturdays are generally reserved for more
junk/antiques and Sundays for clothing, while Tuesday and
Friday mornings its a full-on rabbit swap and pigeon fair - one
of the most bizarre spectacles you can possibly witness if
you arrive early enough (ends about 9:00). Markets begin
around 5:30 in the morning and generally end by early to
mid-afternoon depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns
into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined with
atmospheric bars.
Plac Targowy Unitarg (Hala Targowa) E- 4, ul.
Grzegrzecka 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.
krakow.pl. The citys best outdoor market, Hala Targowa is
open everday for everything from fruit, flowers and produce
to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches.
Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of the week to hit the
stalls, when it becomes a full-blown sprawling flea market
of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl
records, war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes
and pretty much anything you can dream of at bargain prices.
Different vendors set their own hours, but most are here at
dawn and packing up between 14:00 and 15:00. At night on
Plac Targowy youll find a 24 hour alcky shop and the best
grilled kielbasa in town, sold from a van.
Stary Kleparz (Plac Targowy) C/D-1, Rynek Klepar-
ski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32. A tradition of over 800
years, this large, covered, open-air marketplace just north
of the Barbakan offers bargain prices and the best selec-
tion in the city for local produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in
addition to spices, socks, sweaters and whatever oddball
commodities are the order of the day during your visit. They
say they are open until 18:00, but most stalls will have closed
up much earlier. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Specialty Foods
Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.delikatesy13.pl. Located in
the basement of Krakws nicest most central shopping mall,
this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality
edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese
and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic
vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made preservative
free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also
made daily. With the sheer volume of outstanding goods,
Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the most dangerous places
you can take your wallet when youre hungry. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Bonarka City Center ul. Kamieskiego 11
(Podgrze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00, www.bonar-
kacitycenter.pl. The superlative western shopping
experience has been delivered to Krakw, making room
for itself directly across the street from a former concen-
tration camp and the nature preserve it shares a name
with ( just beyond the limits of the IYP map: imaginary
coordinates K-6). Bonarka City Center is home to 91,000
square metres of retail space with 270 shops including
Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Komputronik and 267 others, over
30 restaurants and cafes, the largest cinema complex
in the city and 32,000 free parking spaces. Built on the
site of a former chemical plant - the iconic smokestack
of which remains - the heart of this city within a city
features eight two-storey palm trees flanking a fountain
under a glass ceiling. To reach this commercial Xanadu,
take bus 103 to the Kamienskiego stop, bus 164 to
Puszkarska, or buses 144, 173, 179 or 184 to the
Naftobudowa stop. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Galeria Kazimierz J-3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in
2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another
step in Krakws economic renaissance and rated as the
areas most prestigious mall before the overblown open-
ing of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping centre
in town, GK boasts over 130 retail units including media
giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M
and Zara, cosmetic specialists Sephora and Superpharm,
and revered jewellers W. Kruk and Swarovski. The Alma
supermarket offers Krakws premier selection of food
and beverages, while those preferring a sit down meal
can choose from the American-themed Jeffs, Pizza Hut,
or Toskania Italian restaurant. For recreational needs
Galeria Kazimierz also touts a ten screen Cinema City
complex with a fitness club underneath it. Situated next
to the Kazimierz district the mall is easily accessed on
foot; those arriving by car have 1,600 car parking spaces
to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48)
12 428 99 00, www.galeria-krakowska.pl. Covering
60,000 square metres over three floors, if you arrived
in the centre by train its unlikely you missed this place:
a huge glass and steel shopping Mecca opposite the old
station building, which as malls go makes it one of the most
centrally located in Europe. GK has helped contribute to
the regeneration of an area that once was home to dodgy
dwellings and dealings, and now has a new square and train
platform access. Stores housed here include H&M, Peek &
Cloppenburg, electronics giant Saturn, an enormous Carre-
four supermarket and over 260 other retail units, 1400 car
parking spaces, an entertainment centre and restaurants.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pasa 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12 617
02 27, www.delikatesy13.pl. This gorgeous old Rynek
townhouse was converted into a snazzy shopping area in
2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus
Concept Stores. Not your typical shopping mall, Pasa
13 has 17 designer shops including Dolce&Gabbana,
Vero Moda and Miss Sixty. Youll also find a fine Italian
delikatessen and bar (U Louisa) in the cellar. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops
in Pasa 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13
are open from 09:00.
Shopping Malls Gifts & Souvenirs
Its only natural to want to bring something back home from
your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who have no
idea where the country is that it does indeed exist. Also, if
you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish family while here
its common courtesy to arrive with a gift. While there are
chintzy souvenir shops all over the Old Town, the Mecca of
them all is the centuries old Cloth Hall in the middle of the
market square. Essentially a huge souvenir market, in the
packed stalls youll find all sorts of Polish keepsakes includ-
ing amber jewellery, carved wood, lace and cloth handicrafts
and more. For a tourist market the quality is surprisingly high
and the prices generally fair, so theres no shame in shopping
there. Below weve listed more unique local or national Polish
businesses where you can find attractive gifts and feel good
about how you are spending your money at the same time.
Artefe C-5, ul. Grodzka 61, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 02,
www.artefe.com.pl. This stylish and high-quality tableware
is designed in Krakw and fashioned from materials associ-
ated with the area: steel, black oak from the Wisa riverbed
and limestone from the Jura Upland. Industrial, yet elegant
the collections include salt and pepper cellars, sugar bowls,
candleholders, spoons and more. QOpen 11.00 - 19.00, Sat
10.00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Calik C-3, Rynek Gwny 7/5, tel. (+48) 12 421 77 60,
www.calik.pl. Few things are more nostalgic, enduring and
sentimental to family members than a Christmas ornament,
especially one that comes from such an overtly Catholic and
family-oriented country as Poland. Calik exports their signa-
ture baubles to the US, Canada, Germany and Australia and
recently designed an entire collection for millionairess Ivana
Trump. Put yourself in that company by visiting their shop on
the Rynek regardless of the season. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) C-3, Rynek Gwny 1/3. Your
best bet for Krakow gifts with many stalls selling lace, cloth,
carvings and all sorts of Polish souvenirs at prices that are
more reasonable than youd anticipate. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12
433 88 55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. A Polish-owned
worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington (Pad-
dingtowski) needs a home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Krakuska - Sztuka Ludowa B-3, ul. Szewska 9,
tel. (+48) 12 430 21 04. This fantastic folk shop is only
a minute from the market square and features a more di-
verse range of decently-priced quality souvenirs than youll
find almost anywhere else: weavings, tapestries, rugs and
embroidery, Bolesawiec ceramic, old fashioned toys and
trinkets, paper cutouts, posters, postcards, painted glass,
leather products, chess sets, folk costumes and more.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Mila C-2, ul. Sawkowska 14, tel. (+48) 12 422 40
82, www.mila.zaprasza.net. Well-known and respected
in Krakw, this shop offers a wide assortment of Polish
porcelain, ceramic, glass and more, including the well-loved
and coveted Bolesawiec folk ceramic, Swarovski crystal
and Silesian porcelain. In the centre of the Old Town, this
shop is worth a look if you are interested in the countrys
finest trinkets and table settings. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11
55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. You know a city has made it
when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there anything which
says Ive been there more than a Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt?
Ahem. Pick up the Krakw one to add to your collection at
the shop inside the HRC opposite St Marys Church. Classic
white costs 88z, black costs 99z. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
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136
DIRECTORY
137
DIRECTORY
Whether a traveller or an ex-pat our directory has many
useful contacts for you. Remember to email us if you find
any of our contacts particularly helpful or, for that matter,
unhelpful. We also welcome new additions.
24hrs Pharmacies
Apteka I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50.
Apteka Galla H-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636 73 65.
Apteka Pod Opatrznoci B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23,
tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
Business associations
American Chamber of Commerce in Krakw ul.
Jodowa 13 (Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 660 72 77 46,
www.amcham.com.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. w.
Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Austria H-2, ul. Krupnicza 42, tel. (+48) 12 424 99
30, www.aussenministerium.at/krakaugk. Consular
Department, ul. Cybulskiego 9 (A-9), tel. (+48) 12 424 99 40.
Denmark B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00,
www.krakau.diplo.de.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 53 50, www.ifcracovie.org.pl.
Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43 59.
Mexico ul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
636 52 59.
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.poland.mid.ru.
Slovakia D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.ambasada-slowacji.pl.
UK B-3, ul. w. Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.
britishembassy.pl.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
Dentists
Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13, tel. (+48) 12 259
80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl.
DentAmerica B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3, tel. (+48) 12
421 89 48, www.dentamerica.pl.
Studio Stomatologii Estetycznej B-1, ul. Batorego
6/2, tel. (+48) 12 633 20 38, www.studiose.med.pl.
Genealogy
Registry Office (Urzd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1, ul.
Lubelska 27, tel. (+48) 12 616 55 15, www.bip.krakow.pl.
Language Schools
International Language Centers IBES I-1, Al.
Sowackiego 56/8, tel. (+48) 12 429 67 88, www.ibes.pl.
Poliglota B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 81
28, www.poliglota.pl.
Profi-Lingua B-3, ul. Podwale 7, tel. (+48) 12 426 16
01, www.profi-lingua.pl.
Libraries
Public Library (Wojewdzka Biblioteka Public-
zna) A-2, ul. Rajska 1, tel. (+48) 12 632 59 07, www.
rajska.info. Have a passport? Then you can get a library
card quick and easy. Enjoy the upstairs Foreign Language
Library with or without one.
Locksmiths
Zakad lusarski E-5, ul. Starowilna 36, tel. (+48)
12 422 97 99.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.com.pl.
Lux-Med I-5, ul. Wadowicka 6, tel. (+48) 801 80 08
08, www.luxmed.pl.
Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65,
www.medicina.pl.
Medicover J-2, ul. Rakowicka 7, tel. (+48) 804 22
95 96, www.medicover.pl. Also at Al. Jana Pawa II 190
(Czyyny), ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki).
Real Estate
Komercel A-1, ul. Karmelicka 48/3a, tel. (+48) 12
632 54 82, www.komercel.pl.
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 25.01.11 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 3.8443z, US$1 = 2.8180z, GBP 1 = 4.5004z.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 3.83z, 1 Dollar = 2.81z, 1 Pound
= 4.43z, No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 3.84z, 1 Dollar = 2.82z, 1 Pound = 4.46z, No
commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Duga 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 3.85z, 1 Dollar =
2.82z, 1 Pound = 4.46z, No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 3.83z, 1 Dollar =
2.81z, 1 Pound = 4.43z, No commission.
Kantor Renesans II C-3, Rynek Gwny 9, tel.
(+48) 12 422 41 79. 1 Euro = 3.86z, 1 Dollar = 2.75z,
1 Pound = 4.45z, No commission.
Pekao SA ul. Medweckiego 1 (Balice Airport), tel.
(+48) 12 639 32 46, www.pekao.com.pl. The bank at
the airport also offer currency exchange. 1 Euro = 3.78z,
1 Dollar = 2.76z, 1 Pound = 4.42z, 5% commission.
Currency exchange
Mamdom www.mamdom.com. Polands largest Anglo-
Polish Property Portal with photos and native speaker trans-
lations. No commission.
Ober - Haus Real Estate Advi sor s C- 2, ul .
Sawkowska 10, tel. (+48) 12 428 17 00, www.ober-
haus.com. Long established experts in residential, office,
logistics and retail real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics.
Founded in 1994 the database includes all types of large
and small flats, luxury suites, houses and villas.
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Krlem) K-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 12 294 28 16, www.chk.org.
pl. English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.
St. Giles Church (Koci w. Idziego) C-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. Q Holy Mass
in English each Sunday at 10:30.
Relocation Companies
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23,
Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. (+48) 22 737 72 00,
www.corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excel-
lent storage facilities and relocations to and within Europe.
Office and local moves also handled.
Translators & Interpreters
Eurokrak C-5, ul. Stradomska 16/1, tel. (+48) 601 86
75 08, www.eurokrak.pl.
Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikoajska 5/13, tel. (+48) 12
421 06 63, www.linguaexpert.pl. Professional translators
who provide services in all languages.
Find out more at
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Astra Medica - Magdent ul. Kazimierza Wielk-
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STREET REGISTER
145
29 Listopada, Al. J-1
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3
Akacjowa L-1
Akademicka H-2
Aliny L-1
Altanowa G-1
Ariaska J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1
Asnyka B-1/2
Augustiaska D-6-7
Bajeczna L-3
Bauckiego A-6
Bandtkiego F-1
Bandurskiego K-1/2
Barska A/B-6/7
Bartosza E-6
Basztowa C/D-2
Batorego I-2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza E-5
Bernardyska B/C-5/6
Biaa Droga H-4
Biernackiego H-1
Biskupia B-1
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3
Blich J-3
Bobrowskiego K-3
Boczna H-4
Bohomolca L-1
Bocheska J-4
Bonerowska E-4
Boni fraterska D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego F-2
Bosacka E-1/2
Boego Ciaa D-6/7
Boznaskiej K-1
Bracka C-3/4
Brzownicza F-2
Brodowicza K-1/2
Bronowicka F/G-1
Brzozowa D-5
Buhaka A-7
Buszka F/G-2
Bydgoska G-1/2
Bytomska H-1
Ceglarska H-5
Celna J-4
Chmielowskiego I/J-4
Chocimska H-1/2
Chodkiewicza J-3
Chodowieckiego G-2
Chopina H-2
Ciemna E-6
Cieszyska I-1
Cicha F-1
wiklowa F-5
Cybulskiego A-3
Cystersw L-2/3
Czapskich A-3
Czarnieckiego J-4
Czarnowiejska H-2
Czarodziejska G/H-4
Czysta A-2
Czywka J-5
Dbrowskiego, gen. K-4
Dbska L-2
Dajwr E-6
Daszyskiego J-3/4
Dbnicka H-4
Dbowa A-7
Dekerta K-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5
Dietla C/E-4/6
Duga C-1
Dugosza J-5
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1
Dolnych Mynw A-2
Dominikaska C-4
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C-2
Dworska H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1
Estery D-6
Fabryczna L-2/3
Faata H-3
Feldmana A-1
Felicjanek A-4
Fenna Sereno I-2
Filarecka H-3
Flisacka H-3/4
Floriaska C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3
Franciszkaska B/C-4
Friedleina I-1
Galla G/H-1
Garbarska B-2
Garczyskiego K-2
Garncarska H-2/3
Gazowa E-7
Gsia K-3
Gowackiego G-1
Goetla G-2
Gobia B-3
Gontyna G-3
Grabowskiego A-1
Gramatyka G-1
Grodzka C-3/5
Gromadzka L-4/5
Grottgera H/I-1
Grunwaldzka K-1/2
Gryfity G-3
Grzegrzecka E-4
Gzymsikw I-1
Halicka J-3/4
Helclw I-1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K-4
Heweliusza L-5
Hofmana F-3
Humberta H-3
Igrcw G-2
Ingardena H-3
Izaaka D/E-6
Jabonowskich H/I-3
Jadwigi z obzowa F/G-1
Jagielloska B-2/3
Jachowicza L-2
Jakuba E-6
Jaskcza H-3
Joselewicza J-3
Jzefa D/E-6
Jzefitw H-1
Kadecka G-1
Kalwaryjska I/J-5
Kamienna I/J-1
Kamieskiego I/J-5
Kanonicza C-4/5
Kapelanka H-4/5
Kapucyska A/B-3
Karowicza H-2
Karmelicka A/B-1/2
Kasztelaska G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka K-1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L-4
Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2
Kiliskiego A-7
Klimeckiego K/L-4
Kmieca H-1
Kobierzyska H-5
Kochanowskiego A-1/2
Koletek C-6
Kotaja E-3
Komandosw I-4/5
Konarskiego H-2
Konfederacka A-7
Konopnickiej A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy F-1/2
Kopernika D/E-3
Kordylewskiego K-2/3
Kociuszki H-3
Kosynierw L-2
Kotlarska K-3
Kolarska L-5
Krakowska D-6/7
Krasickiego I-5
Krasiskiego, Al. H-3
Kraszewskiego H-3
Kredowa F-5
Kremerowska A-1
Krlewska H-1
Krlowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3
Krtka C-1
Krowoderska C-1
Krupnicza A/B-2/3
Krzemionki J-5
Krzesawicka L-1
Krzywa C-1
Krzywda L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7
Ksicia Jzefa F/G-4
Kujawska H-1
Kupa E-6
Kurkowa J-2
Kurniki D-1
Kwartowa L-1
Lanckoroska K-5
Lea F/H-1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa F-3
Lewkowa E-6
Limanowskiego J/K-4
Lipowa K-4
Litewska H-1
Loretaska A-2/3
Lubelska I-1
Lubicz D/E-2
Lublaska K-1
Lubomirskiego J/K-2
Ludowa K-5
Ludwinowska I-4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska B-1/2
Madaliskiego A-6
Maa A-4
Malczewskiego F/G-3-4
May Rynek C-3
Masarska K-3
Matejki, Pl. I/J-2
Mazowiecka H/I-1
Meiselsa D-6
Metalowcw E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al. H-2
Michaowskiego A-1/2
Michaowskiego H/I-2
Mikoajska C/D-3
Miodowa D/E-5/6
Mitery I-5
Mlaskotw H-3
Myska K-1
Mogilska K/L-1/2
Moniuszki K-2
Monte Cassino A-7
Montelupich I-1
Mosinicza K-2
Mostowa D/E-7
Na Grdku D-3
Na Przejciu E-6
Na Szaniec L-3
Na Ustroniu I-4
Na Zjedzie J-4
Nadwislanska J-4
Nawojki G-2
Obona H-1
Odlewnicza F-1/2
Odrowa I-1
Ofiar Dbia L-3
Ogrodowa D-1
Oleandry H-2/3
Olszaska K-1
Orawska I-5
Orzeszkowej C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F-3
Paderewskiego C/D-1
Paproci L-4
Parkowa J-5
Patynw G-4
Pauliska C-6/7
Pawia D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5
Pdzichw I-1/2
Piastowska F/G-1/3
Piekarska C/D-7
Pietrusiskiego G-4/5
Pijarw K/L-1
Pijarska C/D-2
Pisudskiego A/B-3/4
Piwna J-4
Pl. Baw E-6
Pl. Bernardyski C-5
Pl. Biskupi B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3
Pl. Inwalidw H-2
Pl. Kossaka A-5
Pl. Mariacki C-3
Pl. Matejki D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5
Pl. Nowy D-6
Pl. Sowiaski C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5
Pl. Szczepaski B-2
Pl. w. Ducha D-2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica D-7
Pl. Wszytkich witych C-4
Paszowska L-4
Pod Kopcem F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5
Podbrzezie J-3
Podbrzezie D-5/6
Podgrska E-7
Podchorych G-1
Podskale I/J-5
Podwale B-2/3
Podzamcze B/C-5
Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3
Pkole L-3
Pomorska H-1
Portowa K/L-4
Poselska B/C-4
Powile A/B-5
Powronicza A-6
Powstacw lskich, Al.
J/K-5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich,
Al. K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prdnicka I-1
Prandoty J/K-1
Praska G/H-4
Prusa H-3
Przedwionie I-4/5
Przemysowa K-4
Przybyszewskiego F-1
Puaskiego A-6/7
Racawicka H-1
Radziwiowska E-2/3
Rajska A-2
Rakowicka J/K-1/2
Reformacka A/B-2
Rkawka J/K-4
Retoryka A-4
Reymana G-2
Reymonta G/H-2
Rodackiego J/K-5
Rana A-6
Ruczaj F/G-5
Rybaki I/J-4
Rybna L-4/5
Rynek Dbnicki A-6
Rynek Gwny C-3
Rynek Kleparski C/D-1
Rynek Podgrski J-4
Rzeszowska E-6
Rzenicza K-3
Sdowa K-2
Salezjaska G/H-5
Salwatorska H-3
Sandomierska A/B-6
Sarego C/D-4/5
Saska L-4/5
Senacka C-4
Senatorska H-3
Siedleckiego E-4/5
Siemieskiego G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego A-1
Sienkiewicza H-1
Sienna C-3/4
Skaeczna C/D-7
Skalica F-5
Skarbiskiego G-1
Skawiska C/D-7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E-3
Skwerowa A-7
Sawkowska C-2/3
Somiana H-4/5
Soneckiego K-1
Sonecznikowa F-3
Sowackiego, Al. H/I-1
Smocza B-6
Smolesk A/B-4
Smolki I/J-5
Sobieskiego I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sotyka E-3/4
Spasowskiego A/B-1
Spiowa F-1/2
Starowilna D/E-4/6
Staszica I-1
Stawarza J-5
Stefana Batorego A/B-1
Stoczniowcw L-4
Stolarska C-3/4
Stradomska C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego I-3
Strzelcw K-1
Strzelecka E-2
Studencka A/B-3
Sukiennicza C-6
Supniewskiego K-1/2
Swoszowicka J-5
Symfoniczna H-2
Syrokomli H-3
Szablowskiego F-1
Szafera K-2/3
Szczepaska B/C-2/3
Szenwalda L-1/2
Szeroka E-6
Szewska B-2/3
Szklarska L-4
Szlachtowskiego G-1
Szlak I/J-1
Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Szwedzka H-4
Szymanowskiego H-2
lska I-1
liska I-5
lusarska K-4
niadeckiego J-3/4
w. Agnieszki C-6
w. Anny B-3
w. Bronisawy G-3
w. Filipa C/D-1
w. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
w. Idziego C-5
w. Jacka H-5
w. Jana C-2/3
w. Katarzyny D-6/7
w. Krzya D-3
w. azarza J-3
w. Marka C/D-2/3
w. Sebastiana C/E-5
w. Stanisawa C-7
w. Teresy I-1
w. Tomasza B/D-2/3
w. Wawrzyca D/E-6/7
witokrzyska I-1
Tenczyska B-4
Tkacka H-2
Topolowa J-2
Toruska G-2
Traugutta K-4
Trynitarska D/E-7
Twardowskiego H-5
Tyniecka F/H-4/5
Urzdnicza H-1/2
Wadowicka I-5
Waowa K-4
Wandy K-3
Warmijska G-1
Warszauera D/E-6
Warszawska D-1
Wasilewskiego A-7
Wska E-6
Waszyngtona G-3
Wglowa D-7
Wenecja A-3
Westerplatte D-2/3
Widok L-3
Wielopole J-3
Wierzbowa I-4
Wietora I-4
Wiolarska G-4
Wilna B-3
Wadysawa okietka I-1
Wociaska F-1
Wodna L-5
Wodocigowa F-4
Wjtowska H-1
Wolnica, Pl. J-4
Worcela D-2
Wrblewskiego I-1/2
Wrocawska H/I-1
Wrzesiska E-4
Wyczkowskiego G/H-3
Wygoda A-4
Wyspiaskiego H-1
Zacisze D-1/2
Zaktek H-1
Zamenhofa D/E-2
Zamkowa A-6
Zarzecze F-1
Zatorska I-4/5
Zauek K-4
Zegadowicza A-4
Zieliskiego, gen. G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
Zwycistwa L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta J-2
elazna J-1
kiewskiego K-3
Abel 32
Alef 32
Al f 37
Amadeus 28
Amber 32
andel's Hotel Cracow 25
Antique Apartments 39
Apartamenty Muzyczny
Krakw 39
Aparthotel Sodispar 37
Apartment Cracow 39
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 39
Apartments ORLOWSKA
TOWNHOUSE Krakow 39
Art-Mont 37
Ascot Hotel 32
Astoria 32
Atrium 32
B&B La Fontaine 40
Basia Hostel 42
Basztowa Guest Rooms 37
Benefis 33
Best Western Premier Krakow
Hotel 28
Campanile 33
City Hostel 42
Classic 33
Copernicus 26
Cracovia 33
Cracow Lofts 40
Cybulskiego Guest-rooms 37
Eden 33
Etap Krakw Bronowice 37
Express by Holiday Inn 33
Flamingo Hostel 42
Floryan 33
Fortuna 34
Fortuna Bis 34
Francuski 28
Golden Lion Apartments 40
Good Bye Lenin 42
Good Bye Lenin 'Let's Rock' 43
Grand 26
Greg & Tom 43
Grdek 26
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw 28
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center
26
Home & Travel 37
Hotel Art Niebieski & SPA 26
Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3
Artystw N-3
Bardosa T-4
Batalionu Parasol M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl. N/O-3
Cerchw P-4
Daniowskiego R-4
Gajocha O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawa II, al. M/R-3/4
Klasztorna R-5
Kleinera T-1
Kocmyrzowska M/N-1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T-1
Ludmierska N-1/2
empickiego S-1
Mierzwy O/R-3/4
Mocickiego O/P-1
Hotel Kazimierz 34
Hotel Kossak 29
Hotel Stary 27
Hotel Unicus 29
Chopin Cracow 33
Ibis Krakw Centrum 34
Jordan 34
Karmel 34
Klezmer Hois 35
Komorowski Luxury Guest
Rooms 27
Krakw City Apartments 40
Krakw Homes 40
Maltaski 35
Mama's 43
Matejko 29
Momotown 43
Monopol 29
Morawica 43
Mundo 43
Nathan's Villa Hostel 43
Neohotel Airport 43
Novotel Krakw Bronowice 29
Novotel Krakw Centrum 30
Off White Business & Leisure
Apartments 40
Paac Bonerowski 27
Panorama 38
Park Inn by Radisson 35
Patria 38
Petrus 35
Pod Kamykiem 43
Pod R 30
Pod Wawelem 35
Pollera 35
Polonia 35
Polski Pod Biaym Orem 30
Pugetw 30
Quality Hotel Krakw 38
Qubus Hotel Krakw 30
Radisson Blu 27
Red Brick 41
Rezydent 31
Royal 36
Royal Plaza Apartments 41
RT Monopol Jazz 31
Rubens 38
Rubinstein 31
Ruczaj 36
Saski 36
Secret Garden Hostel &
Pension 43
Obrocw Krzya N-1
Orkana P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp. M-4
Przyjani, al. N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5
R, al. O-1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego P/R-5
Solidarnoci, al. O/T-1/3
Stalowa O-1
Struga P-2
Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4
Ujastek T-1
Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4
Wakowicza S-1
Wwozowa S-1
Winiowy Sad M-2
Wojciechowskiego P-1
Zachemskiego P-4/5
Zuchw P-3/4
eromskiego O/P-1/2
Sekret Kazimierza 41
Senacki 31
Sheraton Krakw 28
Sleeping in Krakw 41
Start 38
Sympozjum 31
Tournet 38
Venetian House 41
Wawel 36
Wentzl 31
Wielopole 36
Wyspiaski 36
4 Seasons 48
Akropolis 47
Al Dente 58
Amadeus 48
Amarone 58
Ancora 48
Aperiti f 49
Aqua e Vino 58
Ariel 68
Austriacki Smak 45
Avanti Ristorante 58
Awiw 70
Bagelmama 45
Bagelmama 59
Balaton 47
Bar Grnik 78
Bar Grodzki 70
Bar Targowy 78
Baroque 49
Bei Jing 45
Biaa Ra 70
Bistro Marago 69
Bom Fogo 49
Bombaj Tandoori 48
Boogie Caf Resto Bar 49
Bordo 70
Burger King 61
Burrito Buffet 69
C.K. Browar 71
C.K. Dezerter 71
Cafe Mynek 79
Cafe Oraneria 49
Carlito 58
Coltrane Restaurant & Music
Bar 49
Copernicus 49
Cosa Nostra 58
Cyrano de Bergerac 46
Da Cesare 60
Da Pietro 60
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 68
Delecta 60
Deli Bar 47
Diego & Bohumil 46
Diego & Bohumil 68
Dominikaska 2 50
Dynia Resto Bar 50
Dynia Resto Bar 59
Edo Fusion 47
Edo Sushi 66
Enso 50
Europejska 59
Fabryka Pizzy 60
Farina 78
Figa z Makiem 50
Floriaska 50
Genji Premium Sushi 66
Glonojad 79
Good Food 51
Gospoda Koko 71
Grande Grill 15/16 51
Green Way 79
Gruziskie Chaczapuri 47
Hard Rock Cafe 44
Haweka 71
Horai 66
Chata 70
Chimera 71
Chimera Salad Bar 61
Chopskie Jado 71
Il Calzone 60
Indus Tandoor 48
InVito Pizza & Pasta 60
Irish Pub Nic Nowego 51
Jarema 72
Jeff's 44
Kalinka 77
Karczma Staropolska 72
Kawaleria Szara Smaku 72
KFC 61
Klezmer Hois 68
Kuchnia i Wino 51
Kuchnia u Doroty 72
Kura 66
La Campana Trattoria 62
La Fontaine 46
Leonardo 62
Love Krove 44
Main Square 51
Mamma Mia 62
Manzana 68
Marchewka z Groszkiem 72
Marmolada 72
McDonald's 61
Metropolitan 51
Metropolitan 59
WHERE TO STAY
RESTAURANTS
Nowa Huta Street Register
LISTINGS INDEX
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
146
Milano 62
Milk & Co 52
Mini-Bar Endzior 73
Mid i Wino 73
Mid Malina 73
Miyako Sushi 66
Momo 79
Musso Sushi 67
Nostalgia 73
Nova Resto Bar 52
Ogniem i Mieczem 73
Padre 52
Paese 46
Pepe Rosso 62
Percheron Restaurant 74
Pieroki u Vincenta 74
Pimiento 69
Piri Piri 77
Piwnica Pod Wierzynkiem 52
Pizza Hut 61
Plaa Krakw 52
Pod Anioami 74
Pod Baranem 74
Pod Lwem 74
Pod Oson Nieba 61
Pod R 54
Pod Socem 74
Pod Temid 78
Pod Wawelem 75
Polakowski 75
Polskie Jado Compendium
Culinarium 75
Polskie Jado Kuchnia Polska i
Ocienne 75
Portofino 64
Przekski Wolnica 4 61
red.lounge&garden 54
Restauracja Cafe Sukiennice
54
Restauracja Unicus 54
Resto Illuminati 54
Rocking Horse 56
Rooster 44
Samui 78
Ssiedzi 75
Scandale Royal 56
Shanti 78
Sioux Classic 44
Smak Ukraiski 78
SomePlace Else 45
Stodoa 47 76
Studnia ycze 64
Subway 61
Sushi 77 67
Sushi Bar Sakana 67
Szara 56
Szara 59
Szara Kazimierz 56
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo 69
The Olive 56
The Piano Rouge 56
Trattoria Soprano 64
Trufla 57
Trzy Papryczki 64
Trzy Rybki 57
U Babci Maliny 76
U Zalipianek 76
Vanilla Sky 57
Vega 79
Vinci 64
Virtuoso 64
W Starej Kuchni 77
Warsztat 69
Wentzl 57
Wesele 76
Wierzynek 76
Winiowy Sad 78
Youmiko Sushi Bar 67
Yummie 45
Zapiecek Polskie Pierogarnie 77
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar 67
Cafe Botanica 80
Cafe Gobia 3 80
Cafe Mynek 80
Cafe Wierzynek 80
Camelot 80
Camera Cafe 80
Cheder 80
Chocoffee 80
Europejska 80
Jama Michalika 80
Kolanko N6 81
Lodziarnia 81
Main Square 81
Massolit Books & Caf 81
Nowa Prowincja 81
Noworolski 81
Opera Cafe Pub Restaurant 81
Pierwszy Lokal... 81
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedla 81
Siesta 81
Sodki Wentzl 81
Alchemia 92
Aloha Caf 92
Awaria 82
Baccarat 88
Baroque 82
BeerGallery 92
Bdne Koo 88
Bomba 82
BonTon 88
Budda Drink & Garden 82
Bull Pub 82
Bunkier 83
Cafe Szafe 83
Centrala 88
Cie 89
Club Clu 92
Dym 83
El Sol 89
English Football Club 83
Esze 92
Eszeweria 92
Forty Kleparz 89
Frantic 89
Gorczka 89
Hard Rock Caf 83
Harris Piano Jazz Bar 91
House Of Beer 83
Imbir 90
Irish Mbassy 84
Katedra 84
Klub Re 84
Le Scandale 92
Les Couleurs 93
d Kaliska 90
Lokator 93
Miejsce 93
Ministerstwo 90
Mleczarnia 93
Moment 93
Night Club 66 91
Non Iron 84
Oldsmobil Pub 85
Omerta 93
One Lounge 85
Paparazzi 85
Pauza 85
Piec'Art 91
Pikny Pies 85
Pod Papugami Irish Pub 86
Pozytywka 92
Prozak 90
Ptasiek 93
QUBE 86
Rdza 91
Relaks 86
Shakers 91
Singer 93
Smocza Jama 93
SomePlace Else 86
Spokj 86
Sports Pub 87
Stalowe Magnolie 91
Stary Port 87
wita Krowa 87
Szynk 93
Taawa 92
The Piano Rouge 91
Tram Bar 87
Vinoteka 13 83
Vis a Vis 87
Wielopole 15 90
Wine Garage 83
Winiarnia Klimaty Poudnia 83
Accommodation at a Glance 25
Basic Data 16
Breakfast 59
City Card 16
Climate 16
Cracovian Cooking A-O 68
Cracovian Cooking P-Z 69
Currency Exchange 137
Dining at a Glance 44
Disaster in Smolensk 55
Dogs 35
Dragon Bones 107
Eating History 49
Father Bernatek Bridge 76
Have your say 63
Hey Handsome 54
Hot Beer 83
Hotelcalculator 42
Krakw Historical Timeline 94
Krakow train station 11
Language Smarts 18
Lenin in Krakow 67
Liban Quarry 113
Local football 88
Mail & Phones 17
Market Values 17
Memories of Lenin 117
Milk Bars 78
Nightlife at a Glance 82
Plac Nowy 109
Plac Wolnica 108
Polish names 38
Polish Vodka 86
Public Transport 13
Quick Currency Convertor 17
Quick Eats 61
Rynek Underground 102
Smoking box 66
Sonderaktion Krakau 64
Sukiennice - The Cloth Hall 8
The Hejnal 95
The Legend of Wanda 119
The Monster - Amon Goeth 115
The Nowa Huta Cross 118
The Obwarzanek 67
Tipping 46
Valentines day 65
Valentines ideas 52
What's in a name 28
Where to drink good beer 84
Wielopole 15 90
Wine 83
Witkiewicz 70
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