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Scope of tappet: Generally for small figuring pattern tappet is used.For tappet shedding
mechanism at least 12 heald shaft is used.
Examples :
1. Jamiesons tappet 2. Barrel tappet and 3. Ordinary tappet
A pair of tappets
Cam
Construction:
Figure 2.2 shows a negative tappet shedding mechanism. A pair of tappets A and B are fixed to the bottom shaft C at 180 degrees to each other. Two treadle levers D and E are connected to the loom back-rail by a bracket F. The bracket acts as a fulcrum for the levers. The two treadles have teeth to carry the lamb rods G and H respectively. Two heald shafts J and K are connected to the lamb rods. A top reversing roller shaft Q carries two rollers of different diameters. The roller of small diameter N is connected to a leather strap L to which the front heald shaft J is connected. The roller P of large diameter is connected to a leather strap M to which the back heald shaft K is connected. The tappets A and B touch the anti-friction bowls or followers R and S respectively, which are fixed to the treadle levers. The heald shafts have heald eyes T and U through which the war p threads pass X is the war p sheet and Y is the cloth. The odd ends are passed through one heald shaft while the even ends are passed through the other heald shaft.
A and B - Tappets C - Bottom shaft D and E - Treadle levers F - Fulcrum G and H - Lamb rods J and K - Heald shafts L and M - Leather straps N - Top reversing roller (Smaller dia) P - Top reversing roller (Bigger dia) Q - Top reversing roller shaft R and S - Bowls T - Heald eye U - Heald eye V - Weft yar n W - Lease rods X - War p sheet Y - Cloth
Working:
When the bottom shaft is rotated in the clockwise direction as shown in the figure, the tappets are also rotated. The tappet will depress the anti-friction bowl and the treadle.
Being fulcrumed at one end, the front portion of the treadle moves down. This action is transferred to the lamb rod, the heald shaft and the leather strap. So one heald shaft is lowered and the threads connected to this heald shaft are lowered and form the bottom layer of the shed. The leather straps attached to the reversing rollers are connected in opposite directions, i.e. when leather strap is pulled down, it is unwound from its roller. The shaft therefore rotates in the clockwise direction and the other leather strap is wound on to its roller. The heald shaft is raised and therefore the lamb rod and treadle lever are also raised. The threads connected to the heald shaft are also raised and form the top layer of the shed. For the next shed, the other tappet works with the other set of bowl, treadle, lamb rod, heald shaft, strap and roller and the other heald shaft is lowered. The first heald shaft is raised by the top reversing rollers, and the positions of the healds shafts are thus interchanged. Thus, for one rotation of the bottom shaft, two sheds are formed. In this type of tappet shedding therefore, one tappet depresses the concerned treadle and the corresponding heald shaft is lowered. But the other heald shaft is raised by means of the top reversing rollers. So this type of shedding mechanism is known as negative tappet shedding mechanism
a. The tappet with a bigger throw should be connected to the back heald shaft. b.The bowls should have perfect contact with the tappet surfaces. c. The treadles should be at the same level and parallel to each other at the top position. centre
Heald shafts :
The hook of the lamb rod of the front heald shaft should be connected to the first notch of the treadle lever while that of the back heald shaft should be connected to the third notch. If the depth of shed is altered, the connections of the hooks to the treadle levers can be changed.
Tappets:
1.Two tappets are connected to the bottom shaft at 180 degrees to each other because half a rotation of the bottom shaft is equal to one pick, and for each pick, one tappet will lower the heald shaft. The tappets have a portion corresponding to the dwell. This is used to arrest the movement of the heald shafts for a period of time. During this time, the shuttle is traversing from one box to the other. This period is usually 1/3 rd of a pick i.e. 120 degrees. See Figure 2.5. 2.Throw of a tappet 3.Referring to the figure, it is clear that the difference between the heal s 1 and toe s 2 of a tappet is equal to its throw. If the difference is high then the throw of tappet is also high. Higher-throw tappets apply more force to the treadle lever. A higher-throw tappet is always connected to the back heald shaft. This is mainly to compensate for the difference in leverage in the treadle levers.
Construction:
Figure 2.21 shows a positive tappet shedding mechanism. The tappet shaft A carries tappet B that has a groove C or track in which a bowl D is placed. The bowl is connected in turn to a tappet lever E, link rods G, links J and a heald shaft K. Each tappet is separately connected to a heald shaft through link rods and tappet lever. F and H are fulcrums for tappet lever and links G respectively.
A - Tappet shaft B - Tappet C - Track D - Bowl E - Tappet lever F - Fulcrum G - Link rods H - Fulcrum I - Heald wire J - Heald shaft links K - Heald shaft Figure 2.21 Positive tappet shedding mechanism
Working:
When the tappet is rotated, the bowl is also rotated. According to the shape of the groove, the bowl is moved up or down or is still. If the bowl is moved up, the tappet lever moves to the right through the links G and J and the heald shaft is lowered. If the bowl is moved down, the tappet lever moves to the left and the heald shaft is raised. Since the heald shaft is raised and lowered by means of the mechanism, this tappet shedding is known as positive tappet shedding mechanism. When the bowl stands still, the heald shaft is in the dwell stage.
Disadvantages:
1. If the weave is changed, it will be necessary to change the tappet and the change gear wheel in the counter shaft arrangement. So work involved in changing the weave is more. 2. The capacity of a tappet to produce a pattern / weave is ver y much limited. A maximum of 8 or 10 tappets only can be used.
Plain weave:
Plain weave (also called tabby weave or taffeta weave) is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and twill). It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.
In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbor went over, and vice versa. 1.Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and weft are made of threads of the same weight (size) and the same number of ends per inch as picks per inch. 2.Basketweave is a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads are bundled and then woven as one in the warp or weft, or both. A balanced plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like appearance. It is also known as one-up-one-down weave or over and under pattern. Some examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon, organza, and taffeta.
Twill: A twill weave can easily be identified by its diagonal lines. This is a 2/2 twill, with
two warp threads crossing every two weft threads. Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally drape well. Examples of twill fabric are chino, drill, denim, gabardine, tweed and serge.
Structure: In a twill weave, each weft or filling yarn floats across the warp yarns in
a progression of interlacing to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line. This
diagonal line is also known as a wale. A float is the portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more yarns from the opposite direction. A twill weave requires three or more harnesses, depending on its complexity. A twill weave is the second most basic weave that can be made on a fairly simple loom. Twill weave is often designated as a fractionsuch as 2/1in which the numerator indicates the number of harnesses that are raised (and, thus, threads
Structure of a 2/2 twill. The offset at each row forms the diagonal pattern.
Structure of a 3/1 twill crossed), in this example, two, and the denominator indicates the number of harnesses that are lowered when a filling yarn is inserted, in this example one. The fraction 2/1 would be read as "two up, one down." The minimum number of harnesses needed to produce a twill can be determined by totaling the numbers in the fraction. For the example described, the number of harnesses is three. (The fraction for plain weave is 1/1.)
Characteristics of twill:
A twill with ribs in both sides, called herringbone. Twill fabrics technically have a front and a back side, unlike plain weave, where the two sides are the same. The front side of the twill is the technical face and the back is called technical back. The technical face side of a twill weave fabric is the side with the most pronounced wale. It is usually more durable, more attractive, and most often used as the fashion side of the fabric. This side is usually the side visible during weaving. If there are warp floats on the technical face (if the warp crosses over two or more wefts), there will be filling floats (the weft will cross over two or more warps) on the technical back. If the twill wale goes up to the right on one side, it will go up to the left on the other side. Twill fabrics have no up and down as they are woven. Sheer fabrics are seldom made with a twill weave. Because a twill surface has interesting texture and design, printed twills (where a design is printed on the cloth) are much less common than printed plain weaves. When twills are printed, they are most likely to be lightweight fabrics. Soil shows less on the uneven surface of twills than it does on smooth surfaces, such as plain weaves. Thus, twills are often used for sturdy work clothing or durable upholstery because soils and stains are less noticeable on this fabric. Denim, for example, is a twill. The fewer interlacings in twills allow the yarns to move more freely, and thus they are softer and more pliable, and drape better. Twills also recover from wrinkles better than plain-weave fabrics do. When there are fewer interlacings, yarns can be packed closer together to produce high-count fabrics. In twills and higher counts, the fabric is more durable and air- and water-resistant. There are even-sided twills and warp-faced twills. Even-sided twills include foulard or surah, serge, twill flannel, sharkskin, herringbone, and houndstooth. Warp-faced twills include lining twill, denim, jean, drill, covert, chino, gabardine, cavalry twill, and fancy twill.
Acnowladgement:
1.From lecture 2.www.google.com