Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
by Ruby Carnahan
Table of Contents
5Equipment Needed 6, 7Description of Basic Materials 8, 9, 10Fundamental Stitches 11Steaming and Pressing 12Cutting and Joining a Bias 13How to Take Head Measurements 14Patterns for Headsize
15, 16How to Cut Patterns 17Making Patterns for Ready Made Frames 18, 19Making Wire Frames 20Fabrics Used to Cover Frames and Foundation 21, 22Blocking Material for Covering Frames 23Blocking a Round or a Square Crown of Elastic Net 24Gluing Material to Frames 25Covering a Wire Frame 26Sailor Pattern and its Many Variations 27Making a Basic Sailor Frame 28, 29Covering a Basic Sailor Frame 30Bias Covered Basic Sailor 31Making a Pattern of a Rolled Brim Breton Sailor 32, 33Covering a Breton Sailor 34Pattern for a Basic Sailor 35Making a Pill Box Frame 36How to Cover a Pill Box Frame 37Pattern for Pill Box 38Half Hat 39Hat Anchorage 40Non-Headsize Hat 41Fabric Hat with Three Piece Sectional Crown and Draped Brim. Pattern 42Fabric Hat and Pattern 43Fabric Bag 44Pattern for Fabric Bag 45, 46Hat Linings and Headbands
47Materials Used to Make Straw Hats 48, 49Using a Buckram Frame as a Block for a Straw Braid Hat 50Making a Straw Braid Hat in One Piece 51, 52Making Straw Braid Crowns and Brims on Wood Hat Blocks 53Making Straw Braid Pill Box on a Block 54, 55, 56Hat Made of 5" Straw Banding 57Blocking Rough Straw Bodies 58Blocking a Leghorn Straw Body 59Blocking Straw Bodies of Baku Sisal Shantung 60Cleaning and Remodeling Straw and Fabric Hats 61, 62Materials Used to Make Felt Hats 63How to Block a Felt Body on a One Piece Block 64, 65Blocking Felt Crown and Brim on Separate Blocks 66, 67Blocking a Fur Felt Body Using Combination of a Blocked Crown and Brim Cut from a Pattern 68, 69Blocking a Felt Hood into a Tapered Brim 70Crescent Felt Hat 71Pattern for Crescent Felt Hat 72Fringed Felt Casual Hat 73Pattern for Fringed Felt Casual Hat 74Fringed Felt Bag 75Pattern for Fringed Felt Bag 76, 77Felt Pattern Hat a Three Piece Crown and Felt Brim 78, 79Pattern for Felt Hat Three Piece Crown 80Felt Pattern Hat
81Pattern for Felt Hat 82Berets 83, 84Beaded Velvet Beret 85, 86Pattern for Beaded Beret 87Beaded Velvet Bag to Match Beret 88Pattern for Beaded Velvet Bag 89, 90Wool Felt Beret 91Pattern for Small Beret 92, 93Stitched Beret and Matching Bag 94Stitched Bag to Match Beret 95, 96Beret Made of Wool Material 97Child's Beret of Felt 98Pattern for Child's Beret 99Sectional Beret 100, 101, 102Pattern for Sectional Beret 103, 104Stitched Casual Hat and Bag 105Stitched Casual Hat 106Pattern for Stitched Casual Hat 107, 108, 109, 110Stitched Bag to Match Casual Hat 111, 112Pattern for Stitched Bag 113, 114Casual Ribbon Hat 115Pattern for Ribbon Hat 116Ribbon Bag 117Pattern for Ribbon Bag 118Flowered Hat 119, 120Helmet 121Calot (open or closed crown)
122, 151Pattern for Calot 123Scalloped Calot 124Pattern for Scalloped Calot 125, 126Turbans 127, 128Fur Hats 129Pattern for Fur Brim 130Maline Pom Pom 131Pattern for Maline Pom Pom 132Hat Trimmings and their Application 133, 134How to Apply Trimmings 135Self Trimmings 136Patterns for Trimmings 137Ribbon Ornaments 138, 139Ribbon Bows 140Ribbon Cocarde 141Hat Pins 142Wedding Veils 143Bridesmaid Hats 144Fabric Covered Buckles 145Patterns for Buckles 146, 147Pique or Felt Bonnet 148, 149Pattern for Bonnet 150Cleaning and Remodeling Methods 152, 153Pattern for Hand Bag
Equipment Needed
STEAMER
Steam is required for every type of hat made. An electric steamer made does very well (Illus. I). especially for
IRON
A plain iron may be used with a damp cloth to steam press. A steam iron is used extensively by many for steam pressing (Illus. 2). Steam irons become coated with lime, often making them almost useless, unless they are cleaned by putting 1/4 cup of vinegar and 1/2 cup of water in iron and letting it steam through iron. Then pour out and put in a cup of vinegar and let iron stand for a while to remove all the lime deposit. Pour off and fill your iron with distilled water, ready for use.
curved for blocking Bretons or for a mushroom brim. Head band block on this brim block is movable (Illus. 5), making it possible for
the headsize to be changed to any size, by applying correct headsize band block on brim. Order brim block in your correct headsize.
HEADBAND BLOCKS
Headband blocks may be had in all headsizes.
BUCKRAM (ILLUS. 2)
A very stiff material also used for frame making, and for foundation for trimmings, such as buckles and various other fabric-covered ornaments. Sold by the yard in black or white.
WILLOW (ILLUS. 3)
A material much like buckram, a little finer grade than buckram and used to better advantage for molding on blocks or on wire frames when copying a hat. Sold by the sheet in cream color.
CRINOLINE (ILLUS. 5)
A light weight fine mesh material, often used with honey comb when making turban foundations. Use a layer of honey comb and then a layer of crinoline. Sold by the yard in black and white.
Available in several weights. Heavy weight wire is used for wiring buckram frames. Light weight wire is used for wiring facings, etc. Sold in rolls in black and white.
STEEL WIRE
Used for sailor brims or any brim which is to be perfectly flat; steel wire will not bend.
RIBBON WIRE
Used to wire ribbon for bows. Sold in black and white.
TIE WIRE
Used for tying cross wires when making a wire frame. Also used for branching flowers and tying loops of ribbon bows together. Sold in green, white and black.
WIRE JOINERS
Used to join ends of wire. A small hollow metal tube, about one-half inch long.
OTHER EQUIPMENT
SANDPAPER FOR CLEANING FELTS HEAVY PAPER FOR PATTERNS TISSUE PAPER FOR PATTERNS
SMALL PAINT BRUSH FOR APPLYING SIZING SOFT BRUSH WHISK BROOM WIRE JOINERS MILLINERY GLUE FELT SIZING STRAW SIZING BLACK AND WHITE PAPER-COVERED WIRE BLACK AND WHITE SILK-COVERED WIRE STEEL WIRE BLACK AND WHITE RIBBON WIRE TIE WIRE SMALL PADDED BOARD FOR PRESSING PRESSING PADS AND CLOTHS ASSORTED MILLINERY NEEDLES, NO. 3 - NO. 9 TAPE MEASURE THIMBLE PENCIL TAILOR'S CHALK PINS RULER SCISSORS MILLINERY THREAD NO. 24 IN BLACK AND WHITE HEAVY DUTY THREAD NO. 40 IN COLORS CORD FOR TYING MATERIALS ON BLOCKS PUSH PINS FOR PINNING MATERIALS ON BLOCKS NIPPERS FOR CUTTING WIRE.
HAT LABELS
Individual names on tapes to sew in the headband in crown of hats, may be purchased from any of the
Millinery Supply Houses. They are made to order, and require several weeks for delivery. Sold by the hundred and cost is nominal.
PICK STITCH
Pick stitch is a tiny even stitch about 1/16" apart. Used on some brim edges and around crowns.
FURRING STITCH
Used to join felt or fur edges together. Hold two edges of felt together and sew over and over. When seam is finished it will be flat and almost invisible.
TIE STITCH
Used to fasten trimmings and veilings on hat. Slip needle through material at No. 1 and bring needle back through at No. 2, tie ends and clip thread close to where you have thread tied.
BASTING STITCH
Take one small stitch and then a long stitch for basting. When removing the basting stitches clip
the thread in a long stitch in several places and pull threads out, instead of trying to pull entire basting thread out.
SLIP STITCHING
Slip stitching is used where invisible sewing is desired on facings and folds, etc. Begin slip stitch by taking a tiny stitch through material and then a long stitch through turned edge of fold.
RUNNING STITCH
This is the simplest stitch used in sewing, and is used where a strong stitch is unnecessary, for example, gathering shirring and tucking. To make stitches, pass the needle through material, taking several small stitches at a time, before drawing needle through material.
SHIRRING
Use running stitches making them the same length on both sides. Continue making stitches until you have finished the row, then draw material together to form even gathering.
OVERCASTING STITCH
Used to sew down edges of material and to apply wire in some places. Sew with close straight stitches, bringing the needle over and over toward you. Do not take stitches too deep or draw thread too tight.
CROSS STITCH
Used to hold down raw edges of material and to sew in name labels. Work from left to right crossing threads at each stitch.
BACK STITCH
Used to sew two pieces of material together where strength is required. The needle is inserted at the end of the last stitch and brought out the length of a stitch farther on.
STEAMING FELTS
AND PRESSING
Steam felt crowns over a teakettle when blocking. Use a steam iron, or a damp cloth and iron, to steam, stretch and flatten a felt brim. Place felt brim on pressing board and cover with a damp cloth, press with a hot iron lifting cloth and iron when felt becomes soft and pliable enough to stretch with your fingers. Continue in this manner until felt is stretched sufficiently. (Illus. 6)
For a true bias, fold material so that the crosswise thread meets the lengthwise thread, or selvedge of material. Fold and cut the material as shown in illustration.
your correct head-size. Average headsize measurements range from 21" to 23" in half sizes.
Headsize Pattern
Trace each headsize pattern and make individual patterns of heavy cardboard. Always use your correct headsize pattern. Bottom of utility block can be usedf to block headsize. Rememberbottom of head block is 1" smaller than top.
BRIM
SAILOR PATTERN
Take a square of paper the diameter of the hat from back to front. (Illus. 1) Fold paper in half and fold again in quarters, (Illus. 2) forming a square one fourth size of original square. Fold square of paper diagonally (Illus. 3) fold after fold, (Illus. 4) until the shortest length appears on top (Illus. 5). Cut off ends as marked (Illus. 6), then open paper and it will be a circle of paper (Illus. 7); use this circle for the brim pattern.
Trace your and exact headsize pattern on page 14 cut out of paste board. Place this
headsize pattern in center of brim pattern and draw a line around headsize on brim pattern, cut out headsize on this line. Measure width of brim desired, from head-size to brim edge and draw a line around brim. Cut off excess on this line. Mark back and front on pattern.
SAILOR CROWN
Use your correct headsize pattern for top of crown pattern. The side crown is a bias piece the length of headsize measurement, with a 2" allowance for lapping ends. Width of bias side crown piece is determined by height crown is to be.
NON-HEADSIZE SAILOR
Start with sailor brim pattern and use your correct headsize Utility Block No. 796 to mark headsize on pattern. Place bottom
of block in center of pattern for an even brim or back for a short back and draw a line around bottom of block on pattern, just as you did when using headsize pattern. The bottom of Utility Block is 1" smaller than your headsize and is oval in shape. Size of headsize can be reduced from there if desired.
CROWN PATTERNS
Cut a circle of paper larger than top of crown and pin to crown, back, front and sides. Draw a line on paper around edge of crown, remove paper from crown and cut on line. Side crown is a bias piece. Allow 1/2" when cutting material.
TO CUT PATTERN
Pin a strip of paper 3" wide to center of buckram crown from headsize in back to headsize in front. Pin a piece of paper
on side of crown to fit side crown and pin to center strip of paper. Trim off all excess paper. Mark back and front of pattern Use this pattern to cut material for covering round crown.
crown is made the same as round crown, only support wires are bent at crown edge and round wire is tied at bend.
VELVET MOIRE SATIN CREPE JERSEY STRAW CLOTH BROCADE TWEED LAME WOOLEN MATERIALS TAFFETA COTTON MATERIALS ALL OF THE ABOVE MATERIALS AND MANY MORE ARE
USED TO COVER FRAMES AND FOUNDATIONS. VELVET HAS A NAP. ALWAYS CUT EACH PIECE OF VELVET WITH THE NAP RUNNING IN THE SAME DIRECTION. SATIN AND MANY OTHER MATERIALS THAT HAVE A SHEEN SHOULD BE CUT WITH EACH PIECE RUNNING THE SAME WAY, TO PREVENT MATERIAL COLORS FROM APPEARING DIFFERENT.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR COVERING FRAMES AND FOUNDATIONS ARE GIVEN ON FOLLOWING PAGES.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
Utility block No. 796 in correct headsize 1/2 yard of material Straw cloth, jersey or any other stretchable material
BLOCKING
(Illus. 1) Place 1/2 yard of material on block with a corner of material in front. Pin material down to block in front, back and on each side. Steam over a teakettle, pulling and pinning material to extreme bottom of block until material is free from wrinkles and fits smoothly around bottom of block. Use ordinary straight pins to pin material to block (push pins may leave holes in material stretched to the extent that this method requires). Wear a thimble to push straight pins into block. After pin is pushed through material into
block, bend pin down flat. Let dry and mark front on material before removing material from block.
MATERIAL TO
FITTING FRAME
(Illus. 2) Place blocked material on crown of frame, pinning the front of material to the front of frame. Smooth material and pin all around bottom of crown, then sew material to bottom of crown with tiny pick stitches, very close together. Pull material out over brim and pin material to brim edge (Illus. 3). Sew around brim edge with tiny close-together pick stitches. If frame is small enough to be covered in one piece, pull material in to headsize on under side of frame and sew around inside of crown (Illus. 4). Cut off excess material around headsize.
Cover surface of frame where material is to be applied with glue and allow to stand about five minutes. Then apply another coat of glue to frame and firmly smooth material over glued surface, pressing and smoothing a small area at a time (Illus. 2). Be sure material has adhered to frame on each space glued, before going on to the next space. When all material has been glued to frame, allow to dry thoroughly.
wound. Use the same method as used for covering buckram frames, cutting brim covering from a pattern, pinning top brim fabric to brim, and sewing to brim wire, then pin facing to under side of brim around edge and at headsize. Finish brim edge with a bias fold or with wired velvet tubing.
BIAS FOLD
Cut a 2'" bias strip of material, (either velvet or matching material). Fold bias strip double and place over wire on brim edge, stretch bias piece and pin all around brirn, join ends of bias strip and make a bias seam. Remove, stitch,and press seam open. Return to brim again pinning fold all around edge of brim. Turn raw edges of fold under 1/4" on each side and slip stitch.
VELVET TUBING
Measure two wires to fit edge of brim, run each wire through a piece of velvet tubing and stretch velvet tubing on wire. Join wire with a wire joiner, turn one edge under and lap stretched velvet tubing ends and sew together neatly. Pin tubing around brim edge and slip stitch. Place tubing on top edge of brim and one on facing of brim.
CLOCHE (ILLUS. 1)
Use sailor pattern cut open in back, lapping one side of brim over the other until desired scoop is attained. Allow 2" for lapping. Measure desired brim width and cut off excess material around brim edge.
MUSHROOM (ILLUS. 2)
Mushroom is a sailor slashed at even intervals and small gores added around edge of brim and rolled down to form a scooped brim edge.
TRICORN (ILLUS. 3)
A Tricorn is a sailor turned up on three sides.
BICORN (ILLUS. 4)
A Bicorn is the front. a sailor turned up across
BERET (ILLUS. 7)
A Beret is two sailor brims sewn together around edge of brim and a headsize cut in the facing brim.
1/2 yard of elastic net frame wire wire joiners heavy thread No. 24
DESCRIPTION
Make a sailor frame pattern following instructions on page 15. Or use the sailor frame pattern in book on page 34. Always remember to use your correct headsize when making a pattern.
SAILOR BRIM
Place pattern on elastic net and mark around pattern brim and Cut out brim edge headsize (Illus. 1. on line drawn, do
not cut out headsize. (Illus. 2) Slash inside headsize line from back to front, and from side to side and then slash every 1/2" around headsize. Bend elastic net segments back 1" to line around headsize and cut off excess. Mark back and front of brim.
SAILOR CROWN
Place crown tip pattern on elastic net, mark around pattern and cut out crown tip on line. Cut a bias piece of elastic net for side crown. The width of bias piece will depend on height of crown, usually 2" to 2 3/4". Mark back and front of crown.
(Illus. 3) Cut a wire to fit sailor brim and join ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew wire on edge of brim frame using a button hole stitch. Cut two pieces of wire to fit crown tip and join ends of wire with a wire joiner. Sew one wire on edge of crown tip (Illus. 4). Hold one edge of bias elastic net, bias side crown, to wired crown tip. (Illus. 5) Overcast side crown to crown tip, lapping ends of side crown in back and sew. Sew wire around bottom of side crown using a button hole stitch.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
1/2 yard of material is required to cover a sailor frame if edge of brim is to be finished with a wire. 3/4 of a yard is required if brim is to be finished with a bias fold. Lining and ribbon headband.
CUTTING MATERIAL
(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on bias of material and mark around brim
edge and headsize. Allow 1/2" on brim edge when cutting out material. (Do not cut material out on line around headsize). Slash material inside the line from back to front and from side to side, and every half inch around headsize just to the line. Mark back and front. Cut out two brim pieces just alike.
COVERING BRIM
Put brim piece on top of frame brim, pulling it over the frame crown and down on brim. Match front and back markings on frame and material (Illus. 2). Extend material 1/2" on brim edge. Turn material over brim edge 1/2". Pin and sew to under side of frame (Illus. 3), catching material to frame. Place facing piece of material on under side of brim, match markings on frame and material and extend material 1/2" on brim edge. Pin facing to frame around brim edge and headsize.
wrong side out. Join ends of fold together on the bias. Remove fold from brim, stitch and press seam open. With seam on fold in back, pin edge of fold right side out on edge of brim and sew to brim using a back stitch. Turn fold over edge of brim and pin around brim edge, turn raw edge of fold under. Pin fold to facing on under side of brim. Sew fold to facing using a slip stitch.
COVERING CROWN
Place crown pattern on the bias of material, mark around pattern on material. Mark front of crown on material and allow 1/2" when cutting out material (Illus. 6). Place material on crown top with mark in front. Pin front, back and sides of material to crown, stretching material slightly as you pin. Turn material over crown edge 1/2" and sew to side crown (Illus. 7).
and turn balance of material up around bottom of crown. Do not sew material around top or bottom of crown. Finish headsize with a lining and a swirled ribbon headband. Instructions for linings and headbands page 45.
TOP OF CROWN
Cut a 10" square of material to fit top crown, having one point of material in front and pin front back and sides to top of crown, stretching material as you pin. Turn material over edge of crown 1/2" and sew to side crown. Cut off excess material around crown under stitching.
SIDE CROWN
Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider than frame side crown measures. Pin one edge of bias piece around top of crown stretching bias as you pin. Pin ends together on the bias, remove from crown, stitch and press seam open. Return bias piece to
side crown with seam in back. Turn material under 1" around top of crown, balance of material turn over bottom edge of crown and sew to inside of crown. Mark back and front of crown.
BIAS BRIM
Measure a bias piece to fit around brim, fold in half lengthwise and turn over brim. Stretch and pin to fit brim. Pin bias ends together,
remove from brim, stitch and press seam open. Fold bias lengthwise and return to brim (be sure brim edge is in center of fold). Pin around brim edge (Illus. 1). Pull top of material into headsize and sew (Illus. 2), then remove pins on brim edge and pull material on facing into headsize and sew. Mark back and front of brim.
LINING SAILOR
Requires a lining and headband. Instructions page 45.
method is very satisfactory when working with any curved detail on frame.
paper on a large piece of paper. Be sure pattern is perfectly flat and smooth, then pin pattern to paper and draw a line around brim edge and headsize and each side in back of pattern (Illus. 6). Mark back and front and cut out pattern on line drawn around headsize and brim. Allow 1/2" on brim edge and at headsize when cutting out material.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
1/2 yard of material for covering frame Breton frame 3/4 yard of grosgrain headband ribbon One hat lining
Hold block over steam and pull down points of material back, front and sides until all wrinkles are worked out of material. Pin material around bottom of block. (Illus. 2) When material is dry, lift off block and slip onto frame crown. (Illus. 3) Sew around bottom of crown and cut off excess material. Mark back and front of crown.
(Illus. 8) Sew facing to brim under wire using a back stitch. Finish headsize with a lining and a swirled headband ribbon. Instructions for linings and headband ribbons page 45.
Measure a wire to fit top of Pill Box frame, join ends of wire with a wire joiner, and sew wire around edge, using a button hole stitch.
TOP OF CROWN
(Illus. 1) Cut 13" square of material and lay on top of crown. Pin front, back and sides to crown top, stretching material as you pin. Turn material over 1/2" and baste to side Cut off excess material under basting. edge of crown crown (lilus. 2). around crown
SIDE CROWN
(Illus. 3) Cut a bias piece of material 2" wider than frame side crown measures. Pin one edge of bias piece to top of crown, stretching bias as you pin. Pin ends together seam, stitch and press Return bias piece to side in back. Turn material top of crown, and balance making a bias seam open. crown with seam under 1" around of material turn
over bottom edge of crown and sew to inside of crown. (Illus. 4).
Half Hat
HALF HAT FRAME
(Illus. 1) Cut a bias piece of elastic net 5" x 11 1/2", dampen and place on Utility Block (head block). Pull into shape from side to side and pin to block with push pins. Let dry on block. Measure a wire and sew on edge of frame, using a buttonhole stitch. Join ends of wire with a joiner. (Illus. 2) Cut 2" strips of crinoline (stretch crinoline strips before using) and fold over wired edge and baste. (Illus. 3) Pin a metal bicycle clip on each side of frame underneath. Baste a strip of crinoline over each clip and stitch clips. crinoline around
The bicycle clip holds hat secure on head and can be purchased in any Millinery Supply House.
Hat Anchorage
DESCRIPTION
Non-headsize hats and other small hats require an anchorage to keep hat on head.
WIRE IN TUBING
(Illus. 3) Make a 1/4" tubing of felt or ribbon and run wire through tubing and sew to either side of headsize. (Illus. 4) Cut material 1/2" wide, fold in half and stitch together for tubing.
WIRE LOOP
For a loop anchorage, make a half yard of 1/4" tubing of matching material. Slip wire into tubing and turn wire at end of tubing, making a 14" loop, join ends of wire with a wire joiner. (Illus. 5) Fit balance of wire around inside of headsize and sew.
Measure two pieces of 1/2" ribbon, one and a half lengths of elastic piece being used. Stitch ribbon together on each side and run elastic through center of ribbon and sew on either side of headsize.
VELVET ROLL
Measure paper rope to fit headsize. Cut and sew together. Do not lap ends of paper rope. Cut a bias strip of material the length and width of the rope, allowing extra width for stretching and turning seam. Stretch material around rope and pin. Lap ends of material and sew. Turn edge of material under and slip stitch. Sew covered rope around head size. Paper rope comes in several thicknesses.
fashionable they become very extreme with the headsize measuring only 12" and worn perched high on the head, tilted forward. One-fourth to three-eighths of a yard of material is required depending on size of hat. An anchorage of elastic or a matching band of material is necessary to hold hat on head. Hat anchorages on page 39.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
1 yd. wool 3/4 yd. crinoline. 3/4 yd. soft taffeta 1 bicycle clip 1/2 yd. blocking felt 3/4 yd. headband ribbon.
12 rings
CRINOLINE FOUNDATION
Mark around pattern on crinoline. Mark notches on crinoline and cut out. (Illus. 1) Match notches on pieces 2 and 3 and baste together. Stitch on machine. (Illus. 2) Join pieces together with seam in back. (Illus. 3) Match markings on pieces 1 and 2, baste together and stitch. (Illus. 4) Place crinoline foundation on correct head-size utility block. (Illus. 5) Steam and pull foundation down to fit block. Pin foundation to block around the bottom and let dry.
Cut and sew fabric same as above. Baste each side of seams down flat and stitch on machine. Place crown on utility block wrong side out. Steam press seams and pin around bottom of crown to block and let dry. (Illus. 6) Slip fabric crown over crinoline foundation and baste together. Place crown measure desired depth on block and of crown from
back to front and from side to side. (Illus. 7) Mark depth around crown with a basting thread. Cut off excess material 1/2" below this mark.
DRAPED BRIM
The above crown may be used with a brim of elastic net covered with the same fabric. Cut a bias strip of elastic net, 8" x 36", and fold in half lengthwise. Pin and drape this strip around utility block until you have desired brim style, then steam elastic net to keep shape and allow to dry. Mark front of brim. Pin elastic net brim and crown together and try on, making any necessary adjustments on brim. Remove elastic net brim from crown. Lay elastic net brim on material and cut material to correspond with elastic net. Baste material and elastic net together. Fold brim back into shape and pin to utility block. Slip crown on block over brim. Match markings on crown and brim and pin together. Sew around headsize. Make lining from same crown pattern and slip inside crown. Finish around
Lay brim pattern on crinoline and blocking felt. Cut out one of each, (Illus. 1). Lay brim pattern on wool material and cut out two brims, one for top of brim and one for facing brim, (Illus. 2). Place wool brims right sides together and baste around outer edge to crinoline and felt brims and stitch, (Illus. 3). Fit brim to head and pin ends of brim together in back, (Illus. 4). Stitch and steam press seam open, (Illus. 5). Turn one side of wool brim over from top all around brim Steam press brim. Pull brim over wool crown on block and pin together around headsize, (Illus. 7). and baste 1/4" edge, (Illus. 6).
necessary. Sew crown and brim together, (Illus. 8). Cut off any excess material around headsize. Make hat lining to match bag lining and finish with ribbon headband.
CUTTING
Cut two sections of No. 1 and two sections of No. 2 of wool, crinoline and blocking felt. Cut two tab facings of wool material extending 1" below notch. Cut two on pattern). sections of
SEWING
Baste crinoline and felt to wrong side of wool sections, 1 and 2. Baste tab facings at top of bag and stitch, (Illus. 3). Turn wool tab facings over and
baste around top of tabs; stitch and press. Baste bag sections
together, making a 1/4" seam, (Illus. 4). Stitch and press seams open. Cut a strip of material 24" long and 1" wide. Stitch flat and press, (Illus. 5). Cut strip into twelve 2" pieces. Slip a ring in center of each 2" piece, fold material over ring and sew ends to bag. Sew four rings on each side of bag and two on each tab, (Illus. 6). Cut I 1/2 yds. of cord in half and run each piece through rings to close bag, (Illus. 7).
LINING
Baste and stitch lining together. Place a square of cardboard to fit bottom of bag. Slip lining in bag, turn in 1/2" and slip stitch to bag.
DESCRIPTION
Hats made on a buckram frame require a lining and a headband ribbon to finish headsize. Felt hats require a headband ribbon only to finish headsize. Use soft taffeta or crepe for hat linings. Use No. 5 Saw-tooth Grosgrain ribbon for headbands.
lining material the width of side crown and length of headsize measurement. Fold this strip of material into quarters, notch, join ends and sew together. (Illus. 5) Match notches on bias strip with notches on circle, baste together and stitch. Slip lining into crown, pin and baste around headsize. Cut off excess material and finish with a swirled headband ribbon.
HEADBAND RIBBONS
Saw-Tooth grosgrain ribbon No. 5 is used to finish the headsize of hats. This ribbon will retain its shape when blocked or swirled, which is very important. Allow 3/4 of a yard of ribbon for a hat, as ribbon shrinks some when swirled.
remove hat. Wet a piece of on line drawn on block, push pins) one edge of and turning ribbon to fit block (Illus. 9). headband ribbon. Starting in back pin (Illus. 8) (with ribbon, stretching
When dry remove ribbon and pin into headsize of hat, and sew using invisible stitch (Illus. 10).
STRAW BRAIDS
PLAIN STRAW BRAID. . . MADE ON A BLOCK OR OVER A FRAME ROUGH STRAW BRAID. . .MADE ON A BLOCK TUSCAN BRAID. . .MADE ON A BLOCK STRAW BANDING. . .CROWN MADE ON A FOUNDATION STRAW CLOTH. . .MADE ON A FRAME
STRAW BODIES
BAKU. . .MADE ON A BLOCK SISAL. . .MADE ON A BLOCK SHANTUNG. . .MADE ON A BLOCK LEGHORN. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED ROUGH STRAW. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED HORSEHAIR. . .CROWN BLOCKED AND BRIM WIRED MILAN. . .REQUIRES A PROFESSIONAL BLOCKER PANAMA. . . REQUIRES A PROFESSIONAL
BLOCKER INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE ABOVE STRAWS ARE GIVEN ON THE FOLLOWING PAGES, EXCEPT PANAMA AND MILAN WHICH REQUIRE A PROFESSIONAL BLOCKER
Using a Buckram Frame as a Block for a Straw Braid Hat Making Crown and Brim Separate
Any style frame may be used as a block to shape straw braid. The braid is basted to the frame and steamed. The rows of braid are then sewn together. Care must be taken not to sew braid to frame. Basting threads are cut and removed and braid is sized and allowed to dry on frame. Finished braid hat is then removed from frame.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
Buckram frame. 8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid. Wrap straw braid in damp towel for several hours
before using.
MARKING FRAME
When crown and brim are to be made separately, mark back, front and sides at bottom of frame crown with a colored thread. Also mark frame brim at headsize edge to match marking on crown. Then separate crown from brim.
Wind thread around one end of straw and manipulate straw into a circle, slightly lapping one row of straw over the other. (Illus. 1) Sew two rows into circle and without cutting straw off baste this circle on top of crown. Continue basting each .row of braid to frame until top of crown is covered, then slightly pull braid and continue, basting braid to side crown, until bottom of crown is reached. Run last row of braid off on a slant and cut braid off (Illus. 2). Steam straw crown slightly over tea-kettle and sew rows of braid together, using small stitches concealed in the straw, be careful not to sew through braid to frame. Clip and remove all basting threads, except at bottom of crown. Apply a coat of straw sizing and allow to dry. Mark bottom of straw crown to correspond with markings on frame. Remove basting threads at bottom of crown and slip straw crown off frame.
Measure a wire to fit brim edge and join with a wire joiner. Pin wire around brim edge on under side, and sew wire to straw. Start in back and fit a row of braid over wire on under side of brim, turn end under and lap braid. Sew row of braid around under side of brim edge. Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry.
Making a Straw Braid Hat in One Piece Using a Buckram Frame for a Block
MATERIAL REQUIRED
edge, lapping each row of braid slightly, pulling braid just a little as you baste. Continue in this manner until top of crown is reached. Last row will have an elongated shape instead of round. Slip end of braid on top under last row, cut off braid and baste flat.
HEADSIZE FINISH
Finish around headsize with a swirled headband ribbon. Instructions for swirled headband ribbon page 45.
8 to 10 yards of 1" straw braid. Utility brim block with correct headsize band block for brim. Utility head block in correct headsize for crown.
BLOCKING BRIM
Wrap straw in damp towel for several hours before using. (Illus. 1) Measure brim on brim block for brim edge around block. (Illus. 2) Starting in back and using push pins, pin first row of braid to block on this line. Lap each row of braid slightly until headsize is reached (Illus. 3). Turn braid up 1/2" on headband block and cut braid off (Illus. 4). Slip straight pins into braid and remove push pins, desired width of and draw a line
except around brim edge. Press carefully with an iron and a damp cloth (Illus. 5). Be sure iron is not too hot. (Illus. 6) Tie a cord tight around headsize over straw and let straw brim dry on block. Mark back and front of brim. When thoroughly dry, remove brim from block and sew each row of braid together, concealing stitches in braid. Measure a wire to fit brim edge and join with a wire joiner. Pin wire to facing of brim and whip wire to braid around brim edge. Fit a row of braid over wire and sew braid around brim edge. Steam this row of braid slightly. Return brim to block and pin down. Apply a coat of straw sizing and allow brim to dry on block.
BLOCKING CROWN
Measure head from back to front and from side to side for desired depth of crown. Mark measurements on crown block and draw a line around block, (Illus. 7) Wind one end of the straw braid manipulate braid about two rows of top of block. rows of braid to with thread and into a circle. Sew braid, then pin to Continue pinning block, lapping
each row slightly and pulling braid to fit block, until crown is desired depth. (Illus. 8) Cut braid off on a slant and run last row of braid off to nothing. Slip straight pins into straw and remove push pins. Press slightly with an iron and damp cloth and let dry on block. Mark back and front of crown. When dry, remove from block and sew each row of braid, concealing stitches in straw. Again place crown on
block and pin to block around the bottom with push pins (Illus. 9). Apply a coat of straw sizing and let crown dry on block.
Four to six yards of 1" straw braid. Use a square crown block correct headsize for blocking braid.
DAMPEN BRAID
Wrap straw braid in a damp cloth for several hours before using.
TOP OF CROWN
Wind one end of straw with a thread, fold slightly lap and manipulate braid, sewing braid into a circle for about two rows of braid, fasten thread. Pin braid to top center of block.
SIDE CROWN
Continue pulling and fitting braid, lapping each row slightly, until top of block is covered with braid, then pull braid as you start to pin braid to side crown and continue pinning and lapping each row of braid slightly until desired measurement is reached on side crown, usually 2 1/2" dependent entirely on current style. Use push pins to pin braid to block, then baste braid. Remove push pins.
SEWING BRAID
Take straw off block and sew each row of braid together with matching thread, concealing stitches in straw. Remove basting.
SIZING STRAW
After sewing braid return to block and pin bottom row of braid to block. Slightly steam again and allow to thoroughly dry on block. Then apply a coat of straw sizing and let straw dry on block. Finish inside of hat with a swirled headband.
DESCRIPTION
5" straw banding comes in many different colors and color combinations. It can be used for trimming or for making an entire hat. The crown of a straw banding hat is made on a blocked foundation. A tapered crown block is most satisfactory for blocking the foundation. Brims may be blocked in sailor, mushroom or breton shape. Beautiful draped hats can be made of 5" straw banding by thoroughly wetting braid and shaping crown on round head block and then draping brim around crown, allowing it to dry on block and applying straw sizing.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
2 1/2 to 3 yards of 5" straw banding. 1/3 yard of starched georgette for blocked foundation. Utility brim block No. 1514X. Tapered crown block
BLOCKED FOUNDATION
Instructions for blocking crown foundation on page 21.
CROWN
(Illus. 1) Place blocked georgette foundation on block. Measure two strips of banding to fit top of crown, allowing two inches on each strip for turning over side crown. Stitch strips together and press 2) Pin banding to with seam in center banding over edge to foundation one inch from top of crown. Measure a piece of banding to fit side crown. Stitch ends together and press seam open. Put side crown on block with seam in back. (Illus. 3) Pin to foundation and sew around top of crown. Trim off excess foundation material 1" below bottom of crown, turn under and sew to banding around bottom of side crown. Apply straw sizing and let dry on block. Mark front of crown. seam open. (Illus. top of foundation top of crown. Turn of crown and sew,
BRIM
(Illus. 4) Mark desired width of brim on flat side of brim block and draw a line around block for brim edge.
(Illus. 5) Measure a wire to fit line on block. (Illus. 6) Join ends of wire with a joiner. (Illus. 7) Measure a piece of straw banding to fit around wire. To measure straw banding, turn edge over wire and pin, stretch banding tight and pin to wire all the way around. Allow 3" for seam. Remove banding from wire and stitch ends together. Press seam open. Turn each side of seam under and sew down by hand. Press. (Illus. 8) Turn this piece of banding over wire 1/4" and sew around wire. (Illus. 9) Pin wired edge of banding to block along the line and steam press banding into headsize. Tie a blocking cord over straw around headsize on block and let dry. Apply straw sizing to brim and let dry on block. Mark front of brim.
MUSHROOM BRIM
Follow instructions for sailor brim. To block brim in mushroom shape, (Illus. 11) pin wired edge of banding on curved side of brim block.
(Illus. 12) Steam press banding into headsize and tie blocking cord around headsize. Finish same as sailor brim.
BRETON BRIM
Measure straw banding and wire in the same manner as for sailor brim. DO NOT pin brim edge to block, and do not join wire ends until hat is finished. Place banding on block, steam around headsize and tie a blocking cord around headsize. (Illus. 13) Curve brim banding up and pull in wire on edge until brim has desired roll. (Illus. 14) Join ends of wire with a joiner. Finish same as sailor brim.
made into hats without blocking. Simply wire the brim edge and sew a headband ribbon inside crown around headsize. (Illus. 2) When this method is used, hat brim will be large and the same size all around. To make the brim shorter in back, block the crown, drape and fold back of brim until desired effect is achieved. To separate crown from brim or make brim smaller on a rough straw body, pull out and cut off cord running between braid rows. Another method is to measure desired depth of crown and draw a line on straw around crown, measure desired width of brim and draw a line on straw around brim. Machine stitch on line around crown and brim. Cut straw off 1/4" outside of machine stitching.
BLOCKING BRIM
(Illus. 4) Steam press any tucks in brim. Pin brim to flat side of utility brim block and steam press. Let dry on block. Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry on block. Mark back and front of brim.
tubing over the other, turn raw edge under and sew. Pin wired tubing around underside of brim and sew, taking a long stitch through tubing and a short stitch through straw (lllus. 5). Finish headsize with a swirled ribbon headband.
BLOCKING BRIM
Slip leghorn brim on brim block, with correct headband block size, and allow straw to turn up 1" around headsize. (Illus. 2) Pin brim down to block around headsize, and lay a damp cloth over straw and press thoroughly around headsize. (Illus. 3) Pin brim down to block around edge of brim. Measure and mark exact size brim is to be and draw a line around brim on straw. Cut off excess straw on this line. Mark back and front of brim.
overcast stitch. Cut a 3" bias piece of velvet or silk. Stretch and pin one edge of the bias piece around the edge of brim and join ends on the bias. Remove bias piece and stitch joining on machine and steam press seam open. Return bias piece to brim, and pin around edge, with bias joining seam in back of brim. Sew bias piece to brim using a back stitch. (Illus. 4) Turn bias piece over edge of brim, and turn raw edge of fold under. Pin fold around under side of brim and sew, using a ilip stitch.
SIZING
Glue sizing straw bodies is a professional method and is entirely optional. Good results are obtained without glue sizing straw bodies. Baku, sisal and shantung straw bodies may be dipped in glue sizing and allowed to dry over night before using.
BLOCKING CROWN
(Illus. 1) Wet straw body until soft and pliable. Place on block, stretching and pulling straw until all fullness has been worked out and crown is free from wrinkles. Pin around bottom of block and tie a blocking cord over straw around block at bottom of crown. Allow to dry thoroughly. (Illus. 2) Measure desired depth of crown from back to front and from side to side and draw a line around crown on straw. Remove crown from block and stitch on line around crown on sewing machine. Cut off excess straw around crown 1/2" below stitching.
BLOCKING BRIM
Stretch straw brim out on a flat surface, working out fullness and smoothing out all wrinkles. Turn straw up 1/2" on headband block and pin to block around headsize. (Illus. 3) Measure desired width of brim from headsize to brim edge and draw a line around brim edge on straw. Remove from block and machine stitch on line. Cut off excess straw 1/2" outside stitching.
necessary. Lap one end of ribbon over the other in back. Sew ribbon to straw using a back stitch. Turn ribbon over brim edge and pin to underside. (Illus. 4) Sew around brim with small stitches on outside of ribbon and slanting needle as you go through to take the next stitch.
CLEANING STRAWS
Baku, shantung, or any other straw that will take water can be washed. Remove all ribbons and wires and scrub straw with a brush and lukewarm soapsuds. Rinse in lukewarm water. Reblock straw while still wet, using the same method of blocking as for new straw. When dry after blocking, apply a coat of straw sizing. If the straw is colored, use sizing of the same color. This will renew faded straw. Many straws can be dyed another color. To freshen a Milan hat, pin brim to a hard surface and steam press into shape. Let dry and size with sizing of the same color. Many straw braids can be cleaned by wiping off with cleaning fluid. Steam press, pin hat to a flat surface and let dry. Apply a coat of straw sizing and let dry.
or used in a combination of blocking the crown and using a pattern for the brim.
FELT SKIRTING
Skirting is available in lengths and is also a fur felt, used for turbans and small draped hats. Usually requires a foundation.
FELTS
Are available in hoods and bodies. Hoods are used to make the smaller hats and the felt body is used when making a brimmed hat. Fur felt is made from Belgian Hares, is the most satisfactory felt to work with, is soft and pliable, does not become stiff when steam and water is applied, and can be made over season after season. The initial cost is greater than wool felt, but the fact that it is so much more satisfactory to work with and can be used over, makes it the better buy. Wool felts are a cheaper felt and become very stiff when steam or water is applied, making it almost impossible to use wool felt more than one season.
Put felt on block, hold over steaming teakettle and as each spot of felt becomes hot and moist, pull, stretch and pin felt to block. (Illus. 4). When stretching felt for brims or pattern cutting, lay a damp cloth over 'felt and press. When felt becomes hot and moist it is more pliable and can easily be stretched. (Illus. 5)
crown on block, steam, pull and stretch felt, until all wrinkles have been removed and felt fits crown block perfectly. Pin felt around bottom of crown (with push pins) and tie a blocking cord around bottom of crown on block (Illus. 2).
MATERIAL REQUIRED
Utility head block in correct headsize Utility brim block with correct headsize Fur felt body 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon
BLOCKING CROWN
Wrap felt body in a damp cloth for several hours before blocking. (Illus. 1) Pull felt body on Utility head block, steam, pull and stretch felt until all wrinkles have been removed and felt fits block perfectly. Pin felt to block (with push pins). (Illus. 2) Measure your head from back to front and from side to side, the depth crown is to be. Mark these measurements on felt, and draw a line around block on felt. Mark back and front of crown. (Illus. 3) When felt crown is dry, remove crown from block and cut off excess felt on crown 1/2" below line on felt.
BLOCKING BRIM
Use felt piece cut off from bottom of crown for the brim. Dampen. (Illus. 4) Put felt piece on Utility brim block. Turn felt up 1/2" around headsize on block. Pin felt to block around headsize. Steam, pull and stretch felt out on brim block as much as possible and pin edge of brim to block.
(Illus. 5) Lay a damp cloth on felt brim and steam press felt around headsize until all wrinkles have been removed from felt brim and felt fits headsize on brim perfectly. Illus. 6. Measure width brim is to be in front, back and each side and draw a line on felt (with tailors chalk) cut off excess felt 1/4" below line.
Blocking a Fur Felt Body Using Combination of a Blocked Crown and Brim Cut from a Pattern
MATERIAL REQUIRED
Fur felt body Utility head block in your correct headsize Brim patterninstructions pattern making page 17. 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon Utility brim block
(Illus. 4) Place brim pattern on felt, and mark around pattern with tailor's chalk) on felt. Cut out felt brim 1/2" from this line. Mark back and front of brim on felt. (Illus. 5) Sew back using a slip brim on Utility 1/2" of felt to turn headsize on block. (Illus. 6) Cover felt brim with a damp cloth and press felt into headsize. Tie a blocking cord around headsize on block over felt and pin brim edge of felt to brim block (using push pins). Let brim dry on block (Illus. 7) Remove felt brim from block, match markings on brim and crown. Slip crown over headsize on brim and sew crown and brim together, using a small overcast stitch (Illus. 8). brim together in furring stitch, and brim block; allow up around
WIRING BRIM
Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt brim edge over wire 1/4" and pin around brim. Sew felt to under side of brim using a small overcast stitch. Finish headsize with a swirled headband.
Fur felt hood Utility head block in correct headsize 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon
BLOCKING CROWN
Wrap felt in a damp cloth for several hours tefore blocking. Pull felt hood over Utility block, steam, pull and stretch felt down, until all wrinkles have been removed and felt fits head block perfectly. Pin felt to block (with push pins) and tie a blocking cord around block over felt. Let felt crown dry on block. Mark back and front of crown. Measure your head from back to front and from side to side, depth crown is to be, and mark these measurements on felt. Draw a line around block on felt. When crown is dry remove crown from block and cut off excess felt on bottom of crown 1/2" below line.
Remove pattern and cut off excess crinoline on line around headsize and brim edge. Use this crinoline pattern to cut out felt brim. Using the principles given above, many smart and unusual brims can be created.
Large felt hood 7 yards of 1/4" braid 3/4 yard headband ribbon Use pattern on page 71.
CUTTING PATTERN
Trace and cut out 9 crescent sections and mark top of each section like pattern. Cut out one piece of pattern trim.
CUTTING FELT
Cut one side of felt hood open from bottom to top, steam press felt hood flat as possible. (Illus. 1) Arrange the 9 crescent pieces of pattern and one piece for trim on felt. Mark around pattern on felt (with tailor's chalk) and mark top of each crescent, and cut out felt on line.
(Illus. 5) Steam and let dry on block. (Illus. 6) Remove from block and sew each crescent section together on inside edge of braid.
FINISH HEADSIZE
Finish headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.
felt or use a combination of color, using one color felt for hat and a contrasting color felt for fringe trimming.
CUTTING FABRICS
Use pattern on page 73 for hat. Lay pattern on a double piece of felt and mark around pattern on felt and cut out. Mark back and front on each piece of felt and mark side seams as indicated on pattern.
ASSEMBLING
(Illus. 1) Match notches on center pieces, baste together and stitch. Steam seam open, and (Illus. 2) stitch each side of seam flat. Trim off excess material on seams. (Illus. 3) Match front of each side piece to front of center piece, and baste together on side seam. Stitch and steam press seam stitch each side seams. open and (Illus. 4) seam flat. Trim
FRINGE TRIMMING
(Illus. 5) Cut a strip of felt 1"x36". Fringe one side of felt 1/2" fringe 1/16" wide. back seam of hat of felt around hat Baste and stitch Cut two strips of felt 1" x 3". Fringe each side of these strips of felt 3/8" deep. (Illus. 7) deep and make (Illus. 6) Start at and fit fringe strip to underside. felt strip to hat.
Gather down center of each strip and sew into a little felt pom pom. Pin each rounded flap in front to back seam, mark, and sew together with pom pom (Illus. 8).
three strips of felt 1" x 27" and fringe on side of felt strip 1/2"
deep (refer to hat Illus. 5 and 7). Cut one strip of felt 1/4" x 18" for loops on bag. Cut two strips of felt 1/2" x 18" for draw strings to run through loops on bag.
ASSEMBLING BAG
Slip felt fringed strip between No. 1 felt pieces extending fringed edge and baste both pieces together (Illus. 1). Cut strip of felt for loops into 2" pieces, fold double and baste two inches apart around top of bag (Illus. 2). Baste and stitch fringed strips of felt all around both pieces marked No. 2 and stitch, then baste one on each side of bag at top over loops, sewing through loops, and stitch (Illus. 3). Pull one draw string strip of felt through loops back. Pull second draw through loops and back Finish ends of draw fringed tassels (Illus. 4). from one side and string of felt on opposite side. strings with small
Use a large 14"x 16" fur felt hood Pattern on page 78-79 3/4 of a yard of headband ribbon Place crown pattern pieces on a fold of paper, trace
and cut pattern double. When making three-piece crown of fur felt, a crinoline foundation is not required. Trace and cut each piece of brim pattern
(Illus. 4) Sew each side of seam by hand, using pick stitches close to
seam. (Illus. 5) Match notches and join No. 2 and No. 1 pieces of felt, stitch (Illus. 6) and steam press seam open. Sew each side of seam down by hand, using pick stitches close to seam. (Illus. 7) Join ends of No. 3 piece of felt, stitch and steam press seam open (Illus. 3). Sew each side of seam by hand using pick stitches close to seam (Illus. 4). Match notches and join No. 2 and No. 3 pieces of felt, stitch and steam press seam open (Illus. 3). Sew each side of seam by hand using pick stitches close to seam (Illus. 4).
remove crown and trim off excess felt on crown 1/2" below line (Illus. 10). This crown can be used with many different styled brims.
WIRING BRIM
Measure a wire to fit edge of brim and join wire with a wire joiner. Turn felt on edge over wire 1/4" with joiner in back. Baste around edge of brim. Sew down using an overcast stitch.
one 16" fur felt hood 3/4 yd. headband ribbon. Pattern on Page 81
CUTTING
Wrap felt in a damp cloth for felt hood up one side Lay felt flat on pull into a flat piece. out felt on this line, (Illus. 1). several hours. Cut to extreme tip. board, steam and Pin pattern pieces
SEWING
Match notches on No. 1 and No. 3 and baste together, making a 1/4" seam, stitch. Steam press seam open, and remove bastings, (Illus. 2). Match notches and baste to No. 2. press seam open, (Illus. 3). Use a small pad underneath felt when pressing this Stitch and steam
seam open, (Illus. 4). Finish headsize with a blocked headband. Instructions for blocked headband on page 46.
BERETS
THIS VERSATILE HAT IS USED FROM SEASON TO SEASON IN SOME FORM. MATERIALS USED TO MAKE A BERET ARE UNLIMITED. ALWAYS BECOMING AND A STYLE FOR ALL AGES. SEVERAL DIFFERENT PATTERNS FOR BERETS AND DIRECTIONS TO MAKE THEM ARE GIVEN ON FOLLOWING PAGES.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
3/4 yard of rayon velvet. Millinery velvet, taffeta, faille or felt may also be used for beaded berets. 3/4 yard of crinoline. If beret is to be made of felt, the crinoline is not required. 1 sheet of sheet wadding. Small piece of silk elastic net. Place pattern on crinoline.
SEWING
(Illus. 3) Sewing through all three pieces (velvet, crinoline and sheet wadding), baste dart in top of beret. Stitch dart and steam seam open. (Illus. 4) Baste seam in
back of bottom part of beret. Stitch and steam seam open. Match markings. Place right sides of top and bottom of beret together and baste around edge (Illus. 5), stitch. Turn beret right side out and steam seam around brim edge until smooth and even. (Illus. before lining. 6) Bead beret
BEADING
Trace beading pattern on tissue paper and cut out. Pin plain edge of pattern on edge of beret with design edge pointing toward the center and starting in back. If beret is cut and seamed exactly like pattern, twelve designs fit around brim. Pin design pattern on top edge of beret and baste around design. Baste design on underside of beret to correspond with top. Sew any kind of beads desired on beret, following design basting threads.
LINING
Lay same beret pattern on taffeta, mark around pattern and cut out. Seam dart in top part of beret and stitch seam in bottom part. Place right sides of top and bottom together and stitch around edge. Slip lining into beret and baste to headsize.
FINISHING
(Illus. 7) Finish headsize
with a ribbon headband. Do not swirl ribbon. Dampen ribbon slightly and place beret on block until ribbon headband dries. Instructions for beret headband page 46.
net. Cut a strip of elastic net 2" wide and 15" long.
SEWING
(Illus. 3) Baste two side seams together and stitch. (Illus. 4) Then stitch third side up 2" from bottom. (Illus. 5) Baste bottom seams together and stitch. Steam press seams open.
BEADING
(Illus. 6) Cover outside of with velvet and circles, making beads. Slip these circles over corner of bag and sew down to bag (Illus. 7). elastic net circles bead around four rows of
HANDLE
(Illus. 8) Cover both sides of 15" strip of elastic net with velvet and insert at bag and sew to bag firmly. top opening of
ZIPPER
(Illus. 9) Insert a 6" zipper in opening in third side of bag.
LINING
Using bag pattern, cut lining in three pieces. Sew two side seams of lining and stitch third side up 2" from bottom. Place lining in bag.
(Illus. 10) Turn lining in along opening and hem around zipper.
Use Beret Pattern on page 85 1/2 yard of felt is required to make the beret 3/4 yard of grosgrain ribbon for headband
(Illus. 1) Place pattern on a fold of paper and cut out. Cut two of these patterns, and on one pattern cut out headsize as marked on pattern. (Illus. 2) Mark pattern. (Illus. (3 and 3a) Place pattern on felt and mark around felt with tailor's chalk and cut out. back and front of
(Illus. 4a) Baste seam in facing brim of Beret and stitch (Illus. 5) and press seam open (Illus. 6). (Illus. 7) Place right sides of top brim and facing brim of Beret together. Baste around brim edge, (Illus. 8) stitch and remove basting Beret to right side. (Illus. 9) Slip a piece of paper rope large enough to fit around edge of beret brim inside Beret and hold over steam, threads. Turn
manipulating edge of beret with fingers until edge around brim is smooth and even. Instructions for Beret headband page 46.
1 yard of foundation felt 1 yard of fabric 6 spools of cotton thread for stitching 3/4 yard of ribbon for headband Use Beret pattern page 85.
CUTTING BERET
Place foundation felt on wrong side of beret fabric on the bias (back to front). Place foundation felt pattern, with pencil lines up, on wrong side of
beret fabric on the bias (back to front). (Illus. 3) Baste felt foundation to fabric on the line around outer brim, headsize and all openings. Mark all notches. Cut out fabric.
STITCHING
(Illus. 4) Machine stitch design on felt side of top and bottom pieces as
follows: (Illus. 5) divide top and (Illus. 6) bottom pieces into quarters, stitch from brim edge to center. Fill in each quarter section with rows of even stitching, including headsize. Machine foot is a good measure for distances between rows of stitching. Press on felt side using a damp cloth.
ASSEMBLING BRIMS
(Illus. 7) Baste and stitch center back seams and darts. Trim and press seams open. Clip darts to point. Match notches on brim edges, baste and stitch brims together. Be sure this seam is stitched evenly. Trim off each seam separately 1/8" from stitching. Cut out around headsize 1" inside line. Turn beret right side out. Place a round pressing pad inside beret and steam press seam around brim edge. Steam headsize, pulling and stretching material to fit your correct headsize Utility Block. More material may have to be cut around headsize. Be careful not to cut out too much, however, since felt will stretch.
HEADBAND
CUTTING BAG
Place pattern on foundation felt and cut out three identical sections. Baste these three felt sections to wrong side of material and cut out.
STITCHING
(Illus. 8) Machine stitch each section on felt side from outer edge to center. Fill in each section with rows of even stitching the same distance apart as stitching on beret. Steam press each section. (Illus. 9) Sew the three sections together, stitching two seams from top to bottom. Stitch the third side up from bottom for 1/2" and down from top for 1/2". Insert a zipper in this side opening . Stitch three seams together to form bottom of bag and turn bag inside out. Steam and press all seams open.
BAG HANDLE
(Illus. 10] Cut a strip of material 4" wide and 15" long for handle. Fold strip together lengthwise on wrong side and stitch. Pull fold through to right side. Fold strip in half and pin ends in opening at top of bag. Turn top of bag in 1/4" and sew securely around handle by hand.
LINING
Cut lining and assemble exactly like outside of bag. Press and slip into bag. Turn edges of lining under around zipper and slip stitch.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
1/3 yard of foundation felt. Shrink felt before using. 1/3 of a yard of silk lining 1/3 yard of wool material 3/4 of a yard of headsize ribbon Strip of buckram 1" x 24"
CUTTING MATERIALS
(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on foundation felt, mark around pattern on felt and cut out felt. (Illus. 2) Baste felt brims to material and cut out material. (Illus. 3) Place brim patterns on lining material and cut out lining. Place headband pattern on material and cut out material.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
1/3 yard of foundation felt. Shrink felt before using. 1/3 of a yard of silk lining 1/3 yard of wool material 3/4 of a yard of headsize ribbon Strip of buckram 1" x 24"
CUTTING MATERIALS
(Illus. 1) Place brim pattern on foundation felt, mark around pattern on felt and cut out felt.
(Illus. 2) Baste felt brims to material and cut out material. (Illus. 3) Place brim patterns on lining material and Place on material and cut out material. cut out lining. headband pattern
Use pattern for child's Beret Place pattern on fold of paper and cut both pieces double. 1/3 of a yard of felt.
mark. Divide Beret headsize into quarters and mark. Pin felt strip (with seam in back) to headsize. Match markings, baste together and stitch. Turn balance of strip under and stitch.
Sectional Beret
REQUIREMENTS
1/4 yard of material 1/4 yard lining 1/4 yard unsized elastic net 3/4 yard ribbon headband
(Illus. 1) Lay pattern sections on unsized elastic net, draw a line around pattern sections on net, also mark net exactly as pattern is marked. Baste each section of elastic net on wrong side of material, and cut out material. Cut out ten sections of lining.
JOINING BERET
(Illus. 2) Join No. 10 section and No. 1 section, seam sides marked F together, making a 1/4" seam. (Illus. 3) Stitch and press seam open. (Illus. 4) Continue adding sections according to numbers, joining No. 2 to No. 1 until all sections have been sewn together and seams steamed open. Stitch each section and press seam open before adding next section. Join, baste and stitch lining in same order as above. Press lining. Place in hat with seams facing elastic net.
FINISHING HEADSIZE
(Illus. 5) Turn bottom around headsize up 1/4", slip on Utility head block and steam around headsize patting material around headsize. Allow to dry on block. Finish inside headsize with a swirled headband ribbon.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
3/4 yard of fabric 1 yard of foundation felt 1/4 yard of lining Ribbon headband 3 spools of thread for stitching
STITCHING CROWN
(Illus. 1) Start rows of stitching at bottom of each section. Stitch to top of section and then down to bottom of section again, continue stitching row after row until section is entirely filled with stitching. Use machine foot to gage distance between rows of stitching. Fill each section with stitching before joining together. (Illus. 2) Baste each section of crown together starting at top and basting down. Then stitch on machine and trim seams close on each section.
BLOCKING CROWN
Pull crown on correct headsize block wrong side out. Steam press seams open then steam crown smoothing out wrinkles and pulling
crown down to fit block. Pin to block around bottom of crown. Let dry on block. (Illus. 3) Measure and mark depth and width crown is to be and run a basting thread around crown on these marks. Mark back and front of crown. Increase or decrease brim pattern at back seam and lay brim pattern on felt. Mark around pattern on felt allowing 1/2" for seams and cut out felt. Lay felt on wrong side of fabric on the bias and baste felt and fabric together and cut out. Now lay fabric side of brim on right side of material on the bias, baste together (Illus. 4) and cut out.
STITCHING BRIM
(Illus. 5) Stitch all three pieces together around brim edge on machine. Trim seam and remove basting. (Illus. 6) Open brim and join together in back, seaming top side of felt and fabric and facing side of fabrics together in one continuous seam. (Illus. 7) Turn facing fabric over felt side of brim and baste around brim edge. Steam press brim. Stitch, starting 1/4" from edge of brim for first row of stitching and continue stitching row after row (Illus. 8) until headsize line is reached. Mark front of brim.
(Illus. 9) Have crown on block and slip brim over crown. Match markings on crown and brim and pin brim to crown on basting line around crown. Make any adjustments necessary before stitching crown and brim together. (Illus. 10) Trim off excess material inside headsize.
LINING BAG
(Illus. 2) Cut a lining like pattern. Baste and stitch together. Press and slip lining into bag. Baste lining around handle, flap and plain side of bag top. (Illus. 3) Sew button to bag and loop to flap for bag closing.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
3 bolts of 1" ribbon 1 yard of crinoline Cut six sections of crinoline from crown pattern.
CROWN
(Illus. 1) Baste ribbon flat on crinoline, slightly lapping each row. (Illus. 2) Cut off each row of ribbon even with each row of ribbon to crinoline. (Illus. 3) Join each section with a 1/4" seam. Be sure points of sections meet evenly on crinoline. Stitch
top of crown. (Illus. 4) Place crown wrong side out on utility block and press seams open (Illus. 5). (Illus. 6) Turn crown right side out, place an utility block. Steam and pull crown down to fit block, pinning to block around the bottom. Let dry on block. Mark back and front of crown.
BRIM
Cut two brim sections of crinoline from brim pattern. (Illus. 7) Starting in back, baste ribbon to crinoline from brim edge to headsize, slightly lapping each row. Increase lapping each row of ribbon at headsize to fit crinoline. Join brim in back with a narrow seam. Press seam
open. Mark back and front of brim. Make facing in the same way. (Illus. 8) Baste top and bottom brims together on wrong side and stitch. Turn brim right side out and press. Place brim on utility block. Match markings on crown and brim and pin together. Baste brim to crown, then stitch around headsize (Illus. 9).
LINING
Using thin silk, follow same pattern for lining. Stitch sections together. Steam on block and let dry. (See illustrations 3 and 4.) Remove lining from block and slip into ribbon crown. Baste around headsize. Finish headsize with a swirled headband.
TRIMMING
(Illus. 10) Trim with flat tailored bows on either side of crown. This hat can be folded for traveling convenience.
LINING
Follow same pattern for lining. Stitch four sections together. Slip lining over bag and turn bag right side out. (Illus. 2) Baste lining to ribbon around top of bag.
Take another length of ribbon, turn end under and starting where first ribbon left off baste second ribbon to opposite section. Cut ribbon off and turn under. Baste another row of ribbon around top of one piece. Stitch each row of ribbon flat.
DRAW STRINGS
(Illus. 5) Fold two 30" lengths of ribbon in half and stitch flat. Draw one piece through opening in ribbon, around bag and out through same opening. (Illus. 6) Draw the other piece of ribbon through opposite opening, around bag and out through same opening. Finish ends of ribbon strips and join strips together.
Flowered Hat
DESCRIPTION
Hats made entirely of flowers may be made on buckram frames, wire frames or on nylon foundations. Small flowers are used when the entire hat is to be made of flowers although turbans or very small hats are sometimes made of larger flowers. Bunches of flowers are taken apart and each flower is sewn or tacked to the hat separately. When making an entire hat of flowers, remember not to use too large a frame or the hat will be top heavy.
Helmet
HELMET
The following instructions apply to both helmet patterns. Any kind of material may be used. Wool, tweed, satin, taffeta and pique are most satisfactory. Trace pattern and lay on fold of paper and cut double.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
3/8 yard of material for outside of helmet 3/8 yard of crinoline for foundation 3/8 yard of sized georgette for lining
CUTTING AND
Lay pattern on and cut out. Mark piece of material 1) Match notches together, making a seam on machine. headsize block, outside. Pull until smooth, and around the bottom.
SEWING
sized georgette and notch each like pattern. (Illus. and baste pieces 1/4" seam. Stitch Place on correct with seams on material down pin to block
(Illus. 2) Press thoroughly with a steam iron and let dry on block. To remove from block, slip a corset stay between block and material and carefully loosen material from block. Cut, sew and block crinoline foundation in the same manner. Now cut out material for outside of helmet. Match notches and baste pieces together, making a 1/4" seam. Stitch seam on machine. (Illus. 3) Turn each side of seam flat and baste down, then stitch down each side of seam. Block as above, being sure to smooth out all wrinkles, and let dry on block.
ASSEMBLING HELMET
Place georgette lining on block with seams on outside. Place crinoline foundation on block over georgette. Now put outside material on block, over the crinoline, with seams on the inside. (Illus. 4) Pin through all three pieces to block and steam again. Turn under, baste edges around bottom of helmet and
steam. (Illus. 5) When dry, remove from block and slip stitch edge around bottom of helmet (Illus. 6)
CLOSED
made of any pique, taffeta,
MATERIAL REQUIRED
3/8 yard of material for outside of calot 3/8 yard of crinoline for foundation 3/8 yard of lining material 3/4 yard of ribbon for headband
FOUNDATION
Lay pattern on crinoline. Mark around pattern on crinoline and cut out. (Illus. 1) Baste seams together as indicated on pattern, then stitch.
When making open crown calot, turn edge under around opening and baste flat. If crown is closed, cut crinoline circle like pattern circle. Baste circle on calot and stitch. (Illus. 2) Pull this crinoline foundation on correct headsize block. Steam foundation, pulling and pinning it down to fit block.
COVERING FOUNDATION
Lay calot for covering. Mark fabric and cut out. like foundation. pattern on fabric around pattern on Baste and stitch Place on block
wrong side out and steam press all seams open. Remove from block, turn right side out and slip covering over foundation. Pin crinoline foundation and fabric foundation together. Turn edge around face under and hem to underside. (Illus. 3) Steam this edge.
LINING
Cut lining from same pattern and sew together as described above. Place lining on block and steam press. Remove from block and slip lining inside calot. Turn lining edges under and slip stitch around edge.
is dry, slip blocked crinoline foundation over felt on block and mark around crinoline on felt with tailor's chalk. (Illus. 4) Remove felt from block and cut off excess felt on this line. Turn edge under 1/2" around face and hem to under side. Block a headband ribbon and sew around inside headsize.
Scalloped Calot
MATERIAL REQUIRED
3/8 yard any material 3/8 yard crinoline 3/8 yard sized honeycomb 1 yard bead trimming
CUTTING CALOT
Cut three large sections and three small sections of material, crinoline and honeycomb for lining.
SEWING
(Illus. 1) Lay material sections on corresponding crinoline sections and baste together. Join sections together alternatelya large section and a small sectionand stitch, making a 1/4" seam.
BLOCKING
Pull on headblock with material side next to block. (Illus. 2) Steam press each seam open and pin bottom edge of calot to block. Allow to dry on block. (Illus. 3) When dry, remove from block and baste 1/4" hem around each scallop. Steam press hem.
LINING
Stitch lining sections together alternately as above. Pull lining over block and steam press each seam open. Pm bottom edge of lining to
block and let dry on block. When dry, slip calot on block over lining, matching scallops of calot and lining, and pin together. Turn edge of lining under around scallops and slip stitch lining to bottom of calot. (Illus. 4) Pin pearl trimming around edge of scallops and sew, using overcast stitch.
Turbans
TURBANS
A Draped Turban can be made of almost any material that will drape into soft,folds and is entirely dependent on the clever draping for style. To drape a professional looking Turban requires real skill to manipulate and design the material into a smart becoming hat. Gives the Designer an opportunity to express creative ability. To make a draped Turban you start from the
headband, then the foundation and then the Turban is draped last. Material is draped and sewn to the foundation last.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
1 to 1 1/2 yards of material 1/2 yard of sized georgette 1/2 yard of crinoline 1 yard headband ribbon Utility headblock in the correct headsize
HEADBAND
Use No. 5 grosgrain sawtooth ribbon. Wet ribbon and squeeze dry (Illus. 2). Start ribbon in back of block with bottom edge of ribbon on the line. Pull and stretch ribbon and pin around block, turning ribbon over at eye line (Illus. 3) and
continuing around block until ribbon meets in back. Turn ribbon under at back.
FOUNDATION
Place sized georgette over block on the bias (Illus. 4). (Run bias from back to front.) Steam, pull down and pin georgette to ribbon headband. Sew to center of headband all the way around. Cut off excess georgette just below sewing on headband. Repeat same process with a layer of crinoline over georgette. Steam, block and pin crinoline to headband and sew. Cut off excess crinoline and let foundation dry on block. Cut a square 14" x 15" of material used to cover turban. Pin and block over foundation in the same manner used to make foundation, sewing to headband and cutting off excess material.
DRAPING TURBAN
(Illus. 5) Cut a bias piece of material used to cover turban 12" x 36" for drape and baste to a bias piece of georgette. Then use your own idea pinning and draping bias material until desired effect is accomplished. Tuck ends of drape under folds to finish and tack on foundation. Steam each fold and slip stitch drape around bottom of drape to headband. (Illus. 6) If a rolled edge around turban is desired, use a piece of paper rope inside bias strip and wrap bias material around paper rope, crushing material as you twist it around. Taper off ends of paper rope and tack to foundation, then tack roll to foundation. Two colors used to drape turban roll is very effective. Cut two bias strips of material and wrap around roll alternating colors.
>Fur
Hats
FUR HATS
Fur hats can be made on a buckram frame or combined with felt. If the entire hat is to be made of fur, be sure to choose a small or medium frame. Fur has a tendency to make a hat bulky. If a larger hat is desired, combine fur and felt or velvet, or any other cloth and fur combination. Use only short nap fur. Fluffy furs are desirable only as trimming and even then use sparingly. To look professional, fur hats require time and expert workmanship.
together. Sew crown and brim together taking small invisible stitches on felt side.
Four yards of maline in one color Two yards of each color if two colors are used.
(Illus. 2) Place circle pattern on maline and cut around circle pattern through all thicknesses of maline. Repeat across width of folded maline, cutting out maline circles through all thicknesses until entire piece of folded maline has been cut in circles.
When folding maline circles, have one circle of each color together, then fold and proceed as above.
HOW TO APPLY HAT TRIMMINGS MAKING HAT PINS SEVERAL DIFFERENT HAT TRIMMINGS MAKING RIBBON AND TAFFETA BOWS MAKING A MALINE POM POM MAKING A RIBBON COCARDE MAKING BUCKLES MAKING RIBBON HAT BANDS
FLOWERS
Flowers are pinned on hat. Then try on hat, make adjustments and sew stem of flower to hat. Tack under a petal of flower using a tie tack. To make an entire hat of flowers each flower is sewn on separately usually in the center of flower. Leaves are tacked on the very edge of leaf with the same color green thread and a tie tack stitch is used.
BEADS
Beads are applied to felts by slipping the needle through a layer of the felt, but not through to other side of felt as stitches must not show. Felt is very easily beaded. When beading a velvet hat cover side you are going to bead with velvet first then sew on beads. Then cover other side of hat with velvet.
VEILS
Usually one yard of veiling is required for the average hat. However are very small and require only % of a some veils yard.
Sometimes the veiling is too wide for a particular hat. In this event cut off some of the width of the veiling, using the side that has been cut at the top of the hat, turning in the cut part and sewing or tacking in place, on hat. If a small visor veil is used, swirl veiling with a steam iron and let veil dry before sewing in hat. Then cut off all excess veiling inside headsize, after veil has been sewn in hat. To drape a veil on a hat, pin center of veiling to center of hat. Put hat on Utility head block and drape and fold veiling until desired effect is attained. Gather ends of veiling, (cutting off any excess) wind ends of veil with a thread and tuck ends of veiling under edge of crown or brim or under any fold, here use your
own individuality. Ends of veiling may have narrow velvet ribbon sewn on and veil tied at the back of hat.
starting 3" from each end at top of veil and slant shirring to other end of veil (Illus. 1). Bottom of veil will be 27" and top of veil will be 21". to fit around front adjust ends of veil (Illus. 2). Crush tissue paper up under front of veil and pass through steam, pushing paper against veil as you steam (Illus. 3). For a veil with tab ends, use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 yds. of is adjusted on hat, veil and sew beads, (Illus. 4). veiling. After veil gather in ends of buttons, or some Gather top of veil of crown and on hat and tack
Self Trimmings
SELF TRIMMINGS
Trace pattern No. 1. Lay pattern on elastic net. Mark around pattern and cut out elastic net foundation. Lay pattern on a double piece of fabric. Mark around pattern on fabric and allow 1/2" and cut out fabric. (Illus. 1) Turn fabric over edge of foundation and sew fabric down around edge of foundation. Baste fabric piece to other side, turn in edge of fabric and slip stitch around edge of 2). (Illus. 3). Start 1/4" from outer edge of ornament and machine stitch row after row following outline of ornament until entire ornament surface is covered with rows of stitching. Steam press ornament. To make this ornament of felt cut out two pieces of felt like pattern and glue felt pieces together with Milliner's Glue. Trace pattern No. 2 and lay pattern on crinoline. Mark around pattern on crinoline and cut out. (Illus. 4) Baste crinoline on wrong side of a double piece of fabric around outer edge and stitch on machine. Pull ornament right side out and baste around (Illus. 5) and stitch. (Illus. 6) Stitch center of ornament as illustration. edge of ornament foundation (Illus.
QUILL ORNAMENT
Use pattern No. 3. Make Quill ornament, the same as No. 2. (Illus. 9) Sew Quill Feeler in center of ornament by pushing needle through side of Quill Feeler and through center to other side of it, and into fabric as Illustration 9a.
Ribbon Ornaments
PLEATED RIBBON ORNAMENT MATERIAL REQUIRED
1 1/2 to 2 yards of 1 1/2" grosgrain ribbon, depending on size of ornament. Any width ribbon may be used.
PLEATING RIBBON
(Illus. 1) Make a 1/4" pleat in ribbon and sew in lower corner. (Illus. 2) Make another pleat in ribbon and fold pleat almost even with first pleat and corner, sewing sew in lower through all
thicknesses of ribbon. Repeat until you have enough ribbon pleated to make the size circle you want. (Illus. 3) Join ends of pleated ribbon to form a circle. (Illus. 4) Cut two pieces of ribbon on the bias center of ribbon back of ornament. and slip through circle. Sew to
(Illus. 5). Turn each side of fold under on right side of band, making a point in
center of each fold (Illus. 6). Sew point down (Illus. 7) with a large bead. Continue making ribbon folds 2" apart around entire band (Illus. 8) turning each side of fold under and sewing with a bead as described. Tack ribbon band around crown of any casual hat.
Ribbon Bows
WIRING RIBBON FOR BOWS
Ribbon wire is used to wire ribbon, is available in black or white. Use black for dark ribbons
and white for light ribbons. For some bows the ribbon wire is sewn in the center of the ribbon, on the wrong side (Illus. 1). Use thread in same color as ribbon to sew wire. Take a stitch through wire and ribbon on the wrong side of ribbon and a long stitch on underneath side of ribbon, through ribbon wire (Illus. 2).
Ribbon is also wired on the edge of ribbon (Illus. 3), stitching ribbon wire down one side of ribbon and turning ribbon over once to cover the wire (Illus. 4).
LOOP BOWS
Divide amount of ribbon you are using in half and start with one end, gather together and sew (Illus. 8).
(Illus. 9) Loop ribbon under keeping end on top. (Illus. 10) Loop next loop under again and let this end come from underneath. (Illus. 11) Cut a small piece of ribbon and crush through and over center to back of bow and sew.
BUTTERFLY BOW
Make three loops on each side making one loop on one side longer (Illus. 12). After bow is completed and a soft piece of ribbon crushed in center of bow and sewn on back side of bow (llus. 13). Cut the center long loop open on the bias (Illus. 14).
TAILORED BOW
D i vide and mark loop and end, lay ribbon for each flat and sew
having one on each side, like illustration 15 or several like Illustration 16. If you are having several loops on each side graduate loops having first loop longest. However measure each loop on each side of bow and mark before starting. Finish center of bow with a
small piece of folded ribbon sewn on back side of bow (Illus. 17).
Ribbon Cocarde
RIBBON COCARDE
Use any width grosgrain ribbon to make Cocarde. 1 1/2 to 2 yards of ribbon is required to make ribbon Cocarde, depending on size desired.
MAKING RIBBON COCARDE (Illus. 1 and 2) Turn ribbon down on each side to make a point, then fold ribbon in center (Illus. 3), bringing these folded sides together, sew in lower point. Turn ribbon back and turn side down making a point again, (Illus. 4 and 5)
and folding in center bringing folded sides together (Illus. 6)
this manner until you have enough folded ribbon points to make the size Ribbon Cocarde you want (Illus. 8). Cut ribbon off and join ends and sew together in lower corner.
Hat Pins
FRINGED FELT HAT PINS
For each hat pin cut a strip of felt 2" x 1 1/2". Slash one side of felt strip very close together and 3/4" deep, making a fringed edge. (Illus. 1) Wrap the other side of felt strip around the head of a small hat pin, lap end over and sew felt flat. Also take a few stitches at bottom of fringed felt and pull thread tight and fasten securely, forming a tassel of felt on pin (Illus. 2).
Slip hat pin head in (Illus. 6) draw, gather together, and fasten (Illus. 7). Cut matching hat material as above and slip over hat pin base, gather around pin and fasten (Illus. 8). securely
FELT PINS
Cut felt in small circles, squares or oblong shapes. Sew two pieces same shape together 1/4" from edge of felt (Illus. 10). Stuff center with cotton (Illus. 11) and slip hat pin head between felt pieces. Sew securely around pin (Illus. 12).
Wedding Veils
WEDDING VEILS
Bridal Illusion is a filmy net used for wedding veils. A formal wedding veil requires six yards of veiling to make veil. Finished formal wedding veil is about five yards long.
An informal wedding veil requires three yards veiling and is usually made fingertip length. Bridal Illusion is 108" wide and requires one width in correct length to make veil. Edges of veiling do not require a finish, however lace may be used to finish edges if desired. Bridal Illusion is available in white and egg shell.
TIARAS
Many beautiful Tiaras ready made may be purchased in the Millinery Supply Houses, or you can make your own Tiaras. Purchase a wire Tiara frame and wind the wires of frame with strips of net. Cut a piece of net double and a few inches wider than frame measures. Fold net double in length, measure a 1" heading and shirr net. Pin shirring on brim wire with heading extended around edge of brim, having a piece of the net on both sides of frame. Make a shirring in net at each wire on frame on both sides, and sew net to frame on these wires.
TO MAKE VEIL
Open veiling to full width. Fold one corner of veiling over one yard and make several rows of shirring on edge of fold. Pin shirred veiling to back of Tiara frame and pull shirring threads to fit frame and tie. Sew veiling through shirring to Tiara on this wire. Trim points on veiling round, at bottom and top of veil.
Bridesmaid Hats
FLOWERED BAND
(Illus. 1) Purchase a metal clip in any Millinery supply house. Wind metal clip with 1/2" grosgrain ribbon and tack ribbon. Separate flowers from a bunch and pin around top of clip and and sew large bunches of side of clip. Clip will fit sew (Illus. 2). Pin flowers on either head securely.
HALF HATS
Half hats are very popular for bridesmaid hats and any material can be used to make this hat. Silk or velvet to match dress can be used to make half hat, or it can be made of flowers or tulle. Instructions for half hat on page 38.
Fabric-Covered Buckles
FABRIC COVERED BUCKLES
Place buckle pattern on elastic net and draw around pattern on net and cut out. (Illus. 1) Wire outer edge of buckle foundation if a stiff buckle is desired, cover wire with a bias crinoline strip. For a soft buckle do not wire foundation.
TO MAKE A BUCKLE
Place a buckle
OF FELT
pattern on a piece
of felt and mark around pattern on felt and cut out two pieces alike. Glue buckle pieces together with Milliners glue.
Felt Bonnet
(This Hat can be made out of Felt or Pique. Two sets of directions and material lists follow.)
3/8 yd. of Felt, 36" wide. Sawtooth grograin ribbon to match, 5/8" wide, 3/4 yd. 1 yd. of cording for ties. Needle and matching thread.
PATTERNS
These are given actual size. For every 1/2" decrease or increase of headsize, take off or add 1/4" on each side seam.
Edges evenbaste and stitch seam and press open. (3) Turn brim edge in 3/8 in. baste and stitch. Steam press. (4) Clip in along inner brim edge edge every 1/2 inch. With right sides together match center fronts of brim and crown, baste together and stitch. (5) Pin headband ribbon starting in center back. Pin ribbon around head-size lapping end of ribbon. Stitch close to edge of ribbon. Dampen ribbon and turn headband to inside of headsize. (6) Place cording ends to each brim illustration. Stitch pointsturn other scissor points. Tie illustrated. point as shown in cord securely to end of cord in with cords as
DIRECTIONS
Baste crinoline crown pieces to wrong side of pique crown pieces then baste and stitch crown pieces together. Press seams open. Lay pique brim pieces right sides together, then lay crinoline brim on and baste. Stitch brim around outer
edge. Turn brim to right side, open corners and insert cords, baste and stitch brim around outer edge 1/8" from edge. Press. Join crown to brim and stitch. Stitch crown lining together and slip into crown. Sew lining around headsize and sew in headband ribbon. For blocking when complete, one method is to sew two shoulder pads together to form a simple hat blocking pad. See Fig. 8.
To clean wings and other fancy feathers, wipe them off with a cloth dipped in cleaning fluid. Glue any loose feathers. Flowers ran be steamed after wiping off with cleaning fluid and re-gluing any loose petals. Veils should be smoothed, pressed and coated with fabric sizing or pressed between sheets of waxed paper, then rolled on a paper roll when not in use.
Baste material and felt together. Cut #2 piece out of elastic net and cut in half lengthwise. Also cut a piece of elastic net 9" x 2" for bottom of bag. Match markings and stitch side seams on #1 piece together. Match markings and stitch #2 pieces. Turn to right side, press and slip a piece of elastic net in each cuff and baste each cuff to top of bag. Stitch #3 piece flat, press and baste to each side of bag at top and stitch. Make a facing to fit top of bag 3" wide. On the right side of this facing stitch a piece of material 9 1/2" x 1 1/4" on each side, making a groove for Facile Spring Fastener, Style K'B, 11" long. Baste and stitch facing around top of bag. Turn over and baste to inside of bag. Slip elastic net in bottom of bag and sew to felt. Slip lining in bag and hem to facing. Slip spring fastener in bag.
Facile Fastener's special patented handbag closure simplifies the construction of handbags at home or in school projects. The hinged corners of the fasteners come apart for insertion in sleeves sewn into purse and are easily assembled to form a solid and substantial closure that will last indefinitely.
End of book.