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Vaishnavite brahmins saree is worn in Kachchha style in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu
<-- Deccan Kachchha style saree worn in Maharashtra with a khan blouse.
Silk Brocades
Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh Surat and Rajkot in Gujarat Kanjeepuram, Tirubhuvanam, Kumbhkonam in Tamil Nadu. Paithan and Yevla in Maharashtra Narayanpet, Dharmavaram, Mysore, Bangalore in Andhra Pradesh Murshidabad in West Bengal Sualkuchi in Assam
Cotton Brocades
Mangalgiri , Uppada in AndhraPradesh Phulia, Shantipur, Dhonekhali in West Bengal Salem, Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu Kozikode in Kerala
Bananas is the undisputed centre of India's zari figured-silk weaving industry. Its figured silks are called brocades in India although technically they can be classified as both brocades (fabric with discontinuous supplementary-weft patterning) and lampas (figured silks with at least two warps and / or two wefts). Brocade weavers are almost exclusively Muslim ,belonging to the Julaha community, although they prefer to call themselves Ansari meaning weavers.
Odhani, Banaras, 19th C Rangkat technique, Ari jhari, carrie, konia buti and broad plain gold chaudani.
The designs are usually extremely fine and delicate. Most of the brocade usually have strong Mughal design influences, such as intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs, kalga, bel and Shikargah pattern.
A characteristic motif found along the inner and sometimes outer edges of borders is a narrow fringe-like pattern that often looks like a string of upright leaves, called a jhaalar. Banaras brocade motifs are densely patterned and look three dimensional, quite unlike the static, two dimensional quality of Deccan and south Indian brocades.
Carrie buta
Kinkhab- heavy gilt brocade with considerably more zari visible than underlying silk. They are commonly worn as wedding saris. Bafta- These are classic brocaded saris associated with 20th century Banaras, and unlike kinkhab have considerably less zari with more silk fabric showing. Abrawan_Like the Dhaka muslins, the pattern vary from barely noticeable additions to extensive supplementary threads which create the patterns in tone on tone or contrasting colors, resulting in a transparent cloth that at first glance looks lightly printed rather than woven.
Amru brocade The supplementary weft patterning of these brocade is woven in silk, not in zari thread. The threads may be either untwisted, giving a thick line to the woven design, or they may be made of twisted yarns that produce a finer,denser pattern. Tanchoi This is a figured silk that is technically related to complex weaves like the lampas because it has one or two warps and two to fine weft colors often in the same shed. This brocades originated from china ,initially being part of the 19th century parsi trade between Indian, china and England.
Tanchoi Saree
Shikargah Border
Cutwork brocade
The transparent silk fabric has supplementary-weft patterning woven in heavier, thicker fibers than the ground. Silk, zari, synthetic fibers and sometimes even wool may be used to create the supplementary-weft designs, but instead of each motif being separately woven in by hand as a discontinuous weft, the thread extend the entire width of the fabric, leaving floats at the back that are cut away by hand after weaving.
Contemporary Brocades
Contemporary Brocades
Contemporary Brocades
Square veil, Gujarat, 19th C Devnagri script Saheb Kunwar Bai Saheb