Florida Marine Research Institute

Complete Crab Care Guide

All about Hermit Crabs, Purchasing the perfect Hermit Crab companion, The appropriate Habitat Set-up, + More Detailed Care the Absolute Musts of Crab Care , Water Quality Issues Common Mistakes Made by Crab Keepers

BIOLOGICAL INFORMATION: Hermit crabs are egglayers. The eggs are hatched in the ocean. Crab larvae are the size of plankton, but after a series of three moults, all of their legs are gained and it is time now to crawl up onto the beach. The gills have changed and now air is breathed, and crabs will drown in the water, if submersed for long periods. They must now find their first shell having crawled up onto the beach. Crabs don't return to the ocean again until the female lays her eggs there to be hatched. Hermit crabs will collect water from tide pools and live near trees or other growths for protection from predators. Natural predators are birds, fish, octopus, other crabs, and some mammals (humans included). Sexing of a HERMIT CRAB Please note: pet store hermit crabs are not sexed. . . It is believed that male and female hermit crabs behave the same. Furthermore, people cannot distinguish the difference between male and female crabs, and since hermit crabs cannot reproduce in captivity, it does not matter whether you have a male or a female pet. Short Biography of a hermit crab: Although crabs can live up to 20 years in the wild, they normally do not in captivity. Small crabs moult more often than larger ones, and this puts them at risk; but large ones may not stay active in small tanks and may also be at risk for death. There are no known diseases from hermit crabs. There is little known about this creature's internal workings; we do know that the most dangerous time in a crab's life is just before, through, and immediately after the moulting process. Hermit Crabs "borrow" the shell that they are in. They will never fully leave the shell (excepting of course, the switching of shells) unless they moult, are sick, or are dying or dead. NEVER, EVER forcibly try to pull a crab out of its shell. The crab will allow itself to be torn in two, before

Hermit crabs need several things to survive, Continued:

(65' @ night time to 85' @ daytime). The lid needs to retain heat and moisture as well
as the climbing crab himself.

HEAT

WATER
(if the crab cannot absorb water, it will dry out and die of SUFFOCATION!!) The water container needs to be deep enough that the crab can nearly submerse himself if it should decide to take a bath.

HUMIDITY
is included in the water section, as part of the breathing ability. A crab cannot breathe with its gills if it is dry!! ! ! The crab requires a dry humid environment. This means that the sand should be dry, but there should be some humidity. This can be evaporating water from the water bowl or light spray misting of water on the sides of the habitat every day.

FOOD
NOTE: Hermit crabs are scavengers in the wild, and as such they should also be fed some of the following from time to time: fruits or veggies - can be fresh or dried (NO starches or citrus-i.e. potato chips, bananas, oranges, etc.); meat -- cooked or not (NO seasonings); peanut butter (no flavors); PLAIN salted corn tortilla chips (white or yellow); PLAIN popcorn; PLAIN salted crackers

(Commercially purchased crab food should ONLY SUPPLEMENT their diet it should NEVER be the sole source of food!)

BATHS
The crab has to be bathed at least once a week. Lukewarm running tap water is fine; unless your area's water is not so good or if it contains chlorine. Then use warmed (microwaved), filtered / treated water in a bowl or in a tub for a perfect bath (you can add salt, if you want). BATHS ARE NEVER TO BE GIVEN INSIDE THE HABITAT . . . To give a crab a running water bath: Just hold the crab under the water stream for several seconds and then set him down in the sink. Repeat several times. The crab may come out of his shell most of the way in an attempt to escape the water. They are slippery!!! use care. . . The necessity of baths and bathing should be taken into consideration when setting up a habitat.

SHELLS
(crabs need an assortment of other shells to move into when they choose to: different sizes, shapes, and colors but be absolutely certain that the color is natural! Many people decorate/paint, whatever, their crabs shells. This is a slow death sentence, as the substances in the decorations break down into their original constituents and contain chemicals such as benzene, chlorine, lead, etc. The same rule applies to the sand or gravel in their tank. Natural colors do not put the crabs at risk of poisoning. TIP: steralize the empty shells in boiling water for a few minutes ; after they have dried, add them to the habitat. You never know who was in there last!

LOVE
(the crab will learn to trust you with time, and will come out to see you more often)

To check the crab for mites, look at him as he comes out of the shell. Are there white or brown "grain"-looking bits on it? (that are not anything to do with the crab's coloring) Or, are there mites or maggots in the tank, on the food? These need to be gotten rid of !!!

She/He must be free of MITES:

SET-UP
A hermit crab habitat MUST include several things, in order for them to have a chance at a long, healthy life. A leaky aquarium (brand-new works just as good) is a good start for a "crab habitat" The habitat must have a lid. Hermit crabs are excellent escape artists and should never be underestimated.

* The purpose of the lid is also to retain heat and moisture. (discussed in-depth earlier)

Unless you live in the tropics, your habitat also needs a heat rock or blacklight
fixture to keep the temperature above 60'F. (This is a MUST. If crabs are subjected to temperatures under 60', they might easily become dormant. They MIGHT live, but it is very risky and definitely not good for them.)

The habitat SHOULD NEVER be placed in direct sunlight or next to/under an

air vent. (You don't want baked crab or crab icicles.)
A habitat needs 1 or 2 inches of sand or aquarium gravel. (Sand is best. Something that works well and is inexpensive is "play sand". This is usually purchased at a hardware store. It should be screened and rinsed.) The level of sand is dependant upon the size of the largest crab in the habitat. All the crabs should be able to bury themselves fully, if they should choose to.

!!!!!! Note: DO NOT USE CEDAR / WOOD CHIPS! breeding environment.

This can create a germ-

You can evaporate an amount of sea/salt water (from a pet store or beach) in the sand or gravel. This will allow the crabs to consume the minerals just as they would in the wild, by absorption.

"FURNITURE" and "TOYS"

Climbing is part of the way of life for a land tree hermit crab. Places for the crabs to climb to are a necessity for the crabs' longevity, activity level, and appearance while in captivity. * Reptile toys from the pet store are an excellent source of starter pieces and ideas. Play equipment layout is limited to your budget and imagination only. Be aware of the danger of a crab getting his shell caught and stuck in between items and the glass. Palm tree plants, hiding logs, rocks, vines, coral, plastic aquarium plants, and wood pieces are excellent items to look at for habitat use.

Buying a Hermit Crab

Never buy a crab who will NOT come out of the shell. Granted that crabs are shy, give them some time, put them in the water bowl, or just hold them for a few minutes. If the crab will not come out after you have been patient, there may be something wrong with it. At the very least, it will not be any fun to have as a pet if it never comes out!

Conversely, NEVER buy a crab who is never scared and never retreats into his shell.
Most often, if a crab will not curl into his shell, he is sick or dying.

Look at crab fully, before you buy them. Check the crab for mites. Look at him as
he comes out of the shell. Are there white or brown "grain"-looking bits on it? (that are not anything to do with the crab's coloring) DO NOT BUY ! ! ! If a crab is infested, the whole tank could be, and then yours will be. . .

The quantity/quality of water is vital to Hermit Crabs' health.

The amount of water in a habitat will depend on the size of the largest crab. The container should not be made of metal and should be deep enough for the largest crab to go wading through, if he should choose to do so.

Salt should not be added to the drinking water. It is preferable to give them salt baths
instead of salted drinking water. Never add salt to the drinking water at all if you are providing salt in another manner -- a hamster salt wheel or mineral wheel, or in other food, like corn tortilla chips or plain salt popcorn.

The water in the tank provides another needed service. Humidity is vital to a hermit crab's health. A hermit crab breathes through moist skin and will suffocate if it dries out.