Yarn, Fabric and Spinning process

Nakayama, Murata Parts Sales 081217

Contents
1) Fiber and Yarn a) Material of Fiber b) Yarn 2) Production Spun Yarn a) Production Process of Cotton 100% and Cotton Blended yarn b) Each Process of Cotton Production 1) Opening and Mixing 2) Carding 3) Drawing 4) Combing 5) Roving 6) Spinning 7) Winding 8) Twisting 9) Weaving 10) Knitting 3) Summary a) Process Summary of Cotton 100% and Cotton Blended yarn b) Comparison of Cotton in each by each Process c) Process Summary of Weaving

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1) Fiber and Yarn a) Material of Fiber

Seed Hair Fiber Plant Fiber Bast Fiber Leaf Fiber Natural Fiber Animal Fiber Animal Hair Fiber Mineral Fiber Fiber Inorganic Fiber Wool, Worsted Cocoon Fiber Cotton Linen Manila hemp Silk

Metal Fiber Glass Fiber

Regenerated Fiber Man-Made Fiber Semisynthetic Fiber

Rayon

Acelate

Synthetic Fiber

Nylon Polyester Acrylic Polyurethane

Synthetic fiber has developed to replace Natural fiber. Polyester Cotton Acrylic Wool Nylon - Silk b) Yarn 1) Spun Yarn Spin short fiber - natural fiber and or man-made fiber (staple fiber) Ex. Cotton, Wool, Polyester, Cotton/Polyester 2) Filament Yarn Continuous yarn (filament) Mainly by Man-Made Fiber Ex. Nylon, Polyester, Polyurethane, Silk

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c)

Spun Yarn Spun yarn consists of several short fibers. Each short fiber is indicated by finesse and fiber length. Indication method of spun yarn 1) Ne (English Count) For Cotton, Polyester, Rayon and their blended It is indicated length based on 1 lb (453.6g). Ex Ne1 - 840 yard = 1 lb Ne30 25,200 yard = 1 lb General indication Ne30/1 = Ne30 single yarn 2) Nm (Metric )count) For Worsted, Woolen, Acrylic It is indicated length based on 1 kg. Ex Nm1 1 km = 1 kg Nm30 30 km = 1 kg Nm=Ne x 1.693 General indication Nm1/36 = Nm36 single yarn 3) Tex ISO is trying to introduce Tex Count. Ex 1 tex 1 g = 1,000 m 30 tex 30 g = 1,000 m Tex = 1,000 / Nm = 591 / Ne Yarn twist direction and No. of twist Single yarn case Spun yarn is usually twisted. There are 2 kind of twist, Z and S in single yarn. single yarn. Ply yarn case Spun yarns are sometimes twisted as double or triple. In this case, assembled yarn is twisted. Generally single yarn is twisted as Z twist. yarn is twisted as S twist as drawing right. And ply Z twist is usual in However it is not popular now. It is indicated weight based on 1,000m

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No. of twist No. of twist is indicated as TPM=T/M (twist per meter) or TPI=T/I (twist per inch) 1 TPM=about 40 TPI d) Filament Yarn Filament yarn is consist of several continuous fibers. Most of the case, they are synthetic yarn as polyester, nylon, Polyurethane. Indication is as denir. D or d (Denir) It is indicated weight based on 450m Ex 1 d 0.05 g = 450 m 150d 7.5 g = 450 m

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2) Production Process of Spun Yarn

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a) Production Process of Cotton 100% and Cotton Blended Yarn

Cotton 100%
A. Carded Yarn Roving Opening Mixing Blowing Carding Drawing (twice) Ring Spinning MVS Winding

Drawing

B. Combed Yarn Roving Opening Mixing Blowing Carding Drawing Twice Ring Spinning MVS Winding

Combing Process Rap Combing Formaer By combing process, short fibers are removed and uniformity is improved. Yarn becomes stronger. In this process, 12 - 20 % fiber (short fiber) is removed.

Cotton Blended Yarn

A. Blending at Drawing Process Synthetic fiber Mixing Opening Carding Cotton fiber Opening Mixing Blowing Carding Roving PreDrawing Drawing (twice) Drawing MJS MVS Ring Spinning Winding

Cotton and Synthetic Process is separated and blended at drawing process. Pre-drawing of synthetic process is to check the weight. Advantage - Easy to change mixing ration (<+-1%) Disadvantage - 2 lines of carding process B. Intimated Blend Synthetic fiber Opening Cotton fiber Opening Mixing Blowing Weight Mixing Weight MultiMixer Carding Drawing (3 times) MJS MVS Drawing (Twise) Roving Ring Spinning Winding

Cotton and synthetic fiber are mixing separately and measure weight and blend. Advantage - Good blending, Less Slub, Higher carding speed. 1 line of card. Disadvantage - Difficult to control and to change mixing ration (around +-2%)

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b) Each process of Cotton Production 1) Opening and Mixing Usually fibers are brought as form of bale. Fibers are pressed and cover by PP fabric and tied by steel wire and distributed.

Purpose of this process Opening Cotton is pressed as bale. open it to be as floc. Cleaning On this process, contamination as seed trash, leaf immature cotton is removed. Mixing And also different material (different kinds of cotton) is mixed. Or even if same material, different lot is mixed. Major manufacturer is Rieter (Switzerland), Truetzschler (Germany), LMW (India), Chinese manufacturers. 2) Carding After Opening and Mixing process, cotton layer, called cotton tuft or lap in case of old machine, is made. On Carding process, cotton tuft is opened to each by each cotton fiber by metallic wire. Therefore to make yarn, it is required to

chute

flat cylinder coiler

doffer Taker in

can

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Purpose of this process Opening At Taker in, cylinder-flat, Cleaning At taker in, cylinder-flat. Parallelization At cylinder-flat After carding process, fiber will be formed like rope called card sliver into can. Major supplier is Rieter (Switzerland), Truetzschler (Germany), LMW (India), Crossroll (UK-China), Vouk (Italy-China), many Chinese manufacturers. 3) Drawing At drawing process, several card slivers are made doubling and drafted and form into sliver.

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Purpose of this process Parallelization By doubling and drawing of sliver, fibers are more even and parallelized Major supplier is Rieter (Switzerland), Truetzschler (Germany), LMW (India), Hara-Toyoda (Japan), many Chinese manufacturers. 4) Combing For combed cotton yarn, combing process is passed. short length fiber is removed. By this process,

Length variation of cotton

Remove this part

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Purpose of this process Parallelization By doubling, drawing and removal of short part of fiber, fibers are parallelized Major supplier is Rieter (Switzerland), LMW (India), Toyada (Japan), many Chinese manufacturers. 5) Roving At roving process, firstly sliver is drafted to thinner to parallelize. And this yarn is a little twisted to keep strength for winding on bobbin and spinning process. spinning process. And it is wound on bobbin for transportation to

Purpose of this process Preparation for spinning process By drafting, sliver becomes thinner yarn as 5mm diameter called rover. Major supplier is Rieter (Switzerland), LMW (India), Toyada (Japan), Marzoli (Italy), many Chinese manufacturers. 6) Spinning Now there are mainly 3 kinds of spinning frame. 1) Ring Spinning, 2) Open

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End Spinning, 3) Air Jet Spinning 1) Ring Spinning This is common, general and traditional spinning. Yarn is made after roving process. This traditional system had developed 200 years ago. Production speed is 15 25m/min. Major Manufacture is Rieter (Switerland), Toyoda (Japan), Zinser (Germany-China), LMW (India), Shanghai (China), Jingwei (China), Marzoli (Italy-China). 2) Open End (OE) Spinning This is industrialized 50 years ago. m/min. Yarn is produced after 3 passed Drawing process. Spinning speed is 200 Mainly for course count yarn. Major Manufacturers are This is developed Schlafhorst (Germany), Rieter (Switzerland), Savio (Italy). 3) Air Jet Spinning This is industrialized 25 years ago. by Murata (Japan). Yarn is produced after Drawing process. Now there are 2 different production lines. One is MJS and the other is MVS. 1) Ring Spinning Yarn is made from rover. Rover is drafted by roller drafts device. And through snail wire, it is twisted by rotating traveler on ring and wound onto spinning bobbin.

Ring Spinning
Spinning bobbin (cop)

Snail wire

Traveler

Ring

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Among ring spinning frame, now compact ring spinning becomes more popular now. By this system, less hairiness yarn can be made. The character of this yarn is less hairiness, more even and stronger compared with normal spinning system. for higher production clothes. In this system, there are small holes at front roller. through these holes. bundled. This is the reason of less hairiness. And air is sucked By this air sucking, fibers are gathered and Therefore this yarn is used

Front roller with small holes

2) Open End spinning (Rotor Spinning) Sliver is introduced by feed roller into combing roller. fibers are open each by each. At combing roller, Each fiber is delivered to rotor part. At

rotor, it is rotation with high speed and fiber is gathered on side wall of rotor and twisted by rotor rotation and becomes yarn. It is suitable for course count yarn and suitable for T shirt and Geans. Production price is cheaper than ring spinning yarn.

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Rotor

Combing Roller Feed Roller

Sliver In

3)

Air Jet Spinning Murata has developed air jet spinning. lines. One is MJS and the other is MVS. 1) MJS (Murata Jet Spinner) MJS yarn is made by 2 air nozzle, N1 and N2. After drafted, outer fibers are open and open fiber is covered onto center part fibers. Air direction of N2 nozzle is opposite of N1 yarn. So center part returned to parallel and cover part is strengthened. On production line, we have MTS (Murata Twin Spinner) machine. This machine has 2 nozzle in one spindle. Now we have 2 production

MJS Spinning Principle

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2) MVS (Murata Voltex Spinner) After draft, fibers are introduced into spindle according to needle. At spindle, air is blown to one direction. One end of fiber is introduced into spindle and other end is rotated outer part of spindle. covered. This fiber is delivered into spindle and

MVS Spinning Principle

4) Comparison of MJS, MVS, Ring, OE yarn

Yarn Structure
RING Yarn

MVS Yarn

MJS Yarn

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MJS yarn consists of center parallel part and outer cover part. this structure, it is easy to absorb water and to be dry.

By

For synthetic

100% or Synthetic cotton blended, it obtained enough strength. However in case of cotton 100%, it is difficult to obtain enough strength, because of short fiber. In MVS yarn, yarn end is twister from center part to outer part. So that it is good for friction, pilling, absorb. similar to ring yarn. In case of Ring yarn, it is twisted. But yarn is twisted just at outer part. Therefore weak for pilling. So that it is weak for Yarn structure is spiral and

In case of OE yarn, both fiber ends are free. friction, so that weaker for pilling than ring yarn.

7)

Winding 1) Purpose of winding process A) Re-winding from spinning bobbin onto package For next process as weaving or knitting, make one package with

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long continuous yarn. B) Eliminate yarn defects

For this purpose, suitable package shape,

hardness, yarn length, waxing are made, considering next process. By yarn clearer, eliminate yarn defects as thick, thin yarn, slub etc. Major manufacturer is Murata (Japan), Schrafhort (Germany), Savio (Italy-China) and recently 4-5 Chinese manufacturers are developing and try to sell in China. 2) Major Function of winding process A) Winding function It is wound from spinning tube onto package. Generally it is wound for 6 inch (152mm) traverse width. are several without packages angle is There shape. called

Package with angle is called Cone. Package Cheese or Parallel tube. General specification Ex. 6"-557' (68) means 6 traverse, take-up 5.57 degree, package outer inside diameter 68mm.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

6"-315' 6"-330' 6"-351'

(53) (46) (63)

6. 7. 8. A.

6"-557' 6"-557' 6"-557' 6"-557'

(56) (63) (65) (68)

C. D. E.

6"cheese (41.5) 6"cheese (54 ) 4" clip cone

6"-351' with rib (68) 6"-420' (59)

B) Piecing function To make one package, several spinning tube shall be jointed. piecing. Piecing means to join yarns. There are 2 kinds of way for One is mechanical knotting the Now splicing is common. other is splicing.

Mechanical knotting piecing with knot Splicing piecing without knot

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C) Clearing function Yarn defect or contamination as slub, trash, fluff will be cause of the problem at next process like weaving or knitting or at final products. not made by Murata. equip on machine. Major clearer type User for new machine UQC2 (Quantum), Peyer p-150, Peyer P-121 Loepfe for new machine - Zenit, for old machine YM-900 (yarn master), YM-800, FR-600 Keisokki for new machine Tri-chord, for old machine KC-60, KC-50, KC40 D) Yarn Length function By measuring No. of rotation, winding length is measured. After reach of set length, drum stops and full package signal is transferred to AD (auto doffer). Tolerance of yarn length is about +, - 1 %. 3) Automatic device A) AD (Auto Doffer) When package becomes full, AD moves to that unit and changes full package to empty bobbin. When empty bobbin has changed, yarn end is put on bobbin and starts to wind. for old machine - UPM (Polymatic), UAM D-4, UAM C-3, UAM-W3, To eliminate them, it is equipped with yarn clearer device. This device it self is We purchase from supplier and Major supplier of Yarn clearer is Uster

(Switzerland), Loepfe (Switzerland), Keisokki (Japan).

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B) CBF (Continuous Bobbin Feeder) It is used tray machine = automatic machine. ACF (Auto Cop Feeder). Generally it is called On this Murata calls ACF as CBF.

device, each yarn end of bobbin on tray is picked up and inserted into top of spinning tube and supply to unit side.

C) Bobbin tray On this type of machine, each of spinning bobbin is supplied onto tray from doffing box. Yarn end of each bobbin on tray is picked developed this
th

up at CBF part and supply to each unit automatically. Murata has type of winder in 80 .

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E) Link Coner This is direct linking winder with spinning frame. transportation is not required. Man powered In case of other type, spinning

bobbin shall be transferred from Spinning frame to winder. However in Link Coner, full spinning bobbin is directory delivered to winder and empty spinning bobbin is returned to spinning frame automatically. in 80. Advantage is quality up, less man power, more Murata has developed this machine efficiency and save space.

F) Cone to Cone This type is to wind from package to package. Generally after dyed cone (package after dying) is re-wound to package.

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G) Hairiness Reducer (Perla A, D) Generally during winding process, hairiness will increase in large Number. hairiness. Hairiness is one of the cause of yarn cut at next By less hairiness, unwinding will be stable. And at process. We developed this device to minimize the increase of next process production efficiency will be increased. There are 2 types. 1) Perla A Air type hairiness device 2) Perla D Disk type hairiness device

H) Pac 21 (multi groove drum) Conventionally to avoid ribbon winding, drum rotation is changed at ribbon diameter. Pac 21 drum has multi groove (ex. 2 winds and 2.5 winds). and ribbon diameter it is wound by using 2 winds groove. this, ribbon will be minimized. In By case of 2.5w 2w drum, usually it is wound in 2.5 winds groove

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I) VOS (Visual On demand System) VOS is management system of machine. On touch panel, machine set, running data, quality data can be set or shown.

8) Twisting 1) Purpose of Twisting In case of spun yarn, 2 or 3 (sometimes more) assembled yarn is twisted. By twisting, it can be obtained more evenness, strength and elongation. Generally twist direction of single yarn (twist at spinning) is Z twist. Therefore at twisting process, it is twisted to S direction. In case of sewing thread (yarn for sewing machine), twist direction of single yarn is Z and twist direction of twisting process is Z direction.

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Depending on No. of twist, fabric surface can be changed. For example Soft twist Less twist than usual, soft fabric Strong twist More twist than ustual, hard fabric. Process of twisting Generally it is twisted by 2 steps 1st step - Assembling by assembly winder 2 or 3 yearns are assembled 2nd step Twisting by Two-for-One Twister Assembled yarn is twisted. 2) Assembly Winder Before twisting on Two-for-one twister, 2 or 3 yarns is assembled for preparation. For this purpose, assembly winder is used. Generally it is And this assembled package is supplied to One is drum Murata is wound as parallel 6 inch traverse package with yarn length measurement. Two-for-One Twister. Generally there are 2 kinds of assembly winders. manufacturing both type. Drum traverse type Wound by groove drum, Less cost, for general yarn. Cam traverse type Traverse by yarn guide, More expensive, more precise than drum traverse type for fine yarn count. Major manufacturer is SSM (Switzerland), Fadis (Italy), Murata (Japan), many Chinese manufacturers. traverse type, and the other is cam traverse type.

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No. 608 Cam traverse type No. 28 Drum traverse type

3) Twisting Generally for Twisting process, two-for-one twister is common. However conventionally ring twister is used. A) Two-for-One Twister On this twister, it is twisted 2 times by one spindle rotation. That is why it is called two-for-one twister. After assemble process, Package can assembled yarn is supplied to two-for-one twister.

be made as cone or cheese. So after twisting process, package can sell without re-winding. Murata produce belt drive type and single drive type. Major supplier is Volkmann (German), Savio (Italy), Murata (Japan), many Chinese manufacturers.

No. 3C1 Two-for-One Twister No. 3CA Two-for-One Twister (belt drive) (spindle drive)

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B) Ring Twister It is old twisting way. supplied. Ring twister has fundamentally same In stead of rover, 2 3 yarn is structure as ring spinning frame.

And drafting part is not existed. Disadvantage of ring

twister compared with two-for-one twister is as following. 1) Just one twist can be made per one spindle rotation. 2) Speed is less. 3) After twisting, it is wound on tube. Cone or cheese is required. Therefore re-winding to

2-3 yarns supply

Spinning bobbin (cop)

Snail wire

Traveler

Ring

9) Weaving After winding, yarn is woven and becomes fabric. weaving, preparation is required. Warp preparation Package warping process sizing process Held preparation weaving Waft preparation Sometimes steam setting is required. Or for old machine as shuttle weaving machine pirn winding process is required. 1) Preparation of warp yarn A) Warping process On this process, required No. of yarn is wound on beam with certain yarn length. Required No. of yarn is decided by the design of each fabric. There are 2 kinds of process. One is Beam warper and the other is sectional warper. On weaving, warp yarn Before and weft yarn are crossover and through this process fabric is made.

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1) Beam warper Usual on creel 500 800 packages are put on. And these Several yarns are wound on beam with yarn length measuring.

beams are made and they are assembled at sizing process. On Sizing process, one beam with 2000 8000 warp yarn is made for weaving machine. Major manufacturer is Benninger (Swizerland).

Beam

Creel

V-type Creel

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2) Sectional warper About several hundred warp yarns are wound on drum with certain yarn length. Later after change the position, another several hundred warp yarns are wound on same drum. process is continued 10 20 times. the yarns ware sound on beam. This After that, from drum all of This way of warping is for

small lot yarn as colored yarn or worsted yarn.

Package

B) Sizing process Sizing process is to put glue on yarn. Short staple yarn as cotton has hairiness. other. On weaving process, each of yarn touches each Another In this case, hair of yarn is cause of warp yarn breakage. To After putting glue, it is

eliminate this kind of breakage, glue is put on yarn. purpose is to strength yarn by putting glue. dried at the same process.

On this process, at the same time, many beams are assembled onto one beam.

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C) Warp yarn insertion Each yarns of beam after sizing are put into dropper, held and lead. Dropper each yarn is inserted into thin steel plate. cut this plate is dropped and machine is stopped. Held Guide frame to open warp yarn. down, yarns are crossover and make fabric. Lead After insertion of weft yarn, weft yarn is pressed into fabric direction. of lead. 1) Warp tying machine This is used same quantity of yarns between previous beam and new beam. After finish weaving one beam, it remains beam yarns. To supply yarns of next beam, it is easy to tie with previous yarn. Generally by using automatic warp tying machine, previous yarn and new beam yarn is tied. After tying, new beam yarns goes through dropper, held and lead. This device is lead. Each yarns are put into each slit Depending on fabric By going up or design, yarns are put into each slit of held frame. When yarn is

2) Reach in machine and Drawing machine These are the machines to pick up one by one yarn on beam and insert to dropper, held and lead. Process to insert each yarn into dropper and held is called Reach In. machine. Process to insert into lead is called Drawing. This machine is called Auto Reach In Drawing Recently both Reach In and Drawing can be made by one

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machine. 2) Preparation of weft yarn A) Pirn winder Shuttle loom (old type of weaving machine) need shuttle for weft insertion. Inside of shuttle, it is put pirn bobbin. Therefore in case of shuttle loom, it is required pirn winder. Yarn is wound on

pirn and pirn is installed into shuttle and used for weft insertion..

Pirn bobbin Pirn bobbin after winding

Shuttle with Pirn bobbin

B) Package set High torque yarn (high twist yarn or worsted yarn) shall be set for weft yarn. There are 2 ways of set. 1) Package put in vacuum setter. 2) Before winding process, spinning bobbin is set. 3) Weaving process A) Weaving machine By the different insertion of weft yarn, there are several kinds of weaving machine. 1) Shuttle loom This is traditional way of weaving. Shuttle is insert weft yarn. High speed is difficult by shuttle loom.

Weft yarn insertion by Shuttle 2) Rapier loom Grip device on Steel lod or steel belt grips yarn and inserts

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weft yarn.

Rapier Head 3) Gripper loom Small steel device (gripper) grips yarn and inserts weft yarn. This gripper fly from left to right and return back by conveyor. Suitable for heavy or wide fabric.

Gripper Loom 4) Water Jet loom Weft yarn is inserted by water jet. yarn. 5) Air Jet Loom

Gripper Head

Mainly used for filament

By compressed air, weft yarn isn inserted. loom and sub nozzles on lead.

Now it is very

common. Yarn is delivered by main nozzle on left side of

B) Accessory of Weaving machine Air Jet nozzle drawing 29

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1) Weft yarn change device Several kinds of yarn can be selectable by this device.

Weft yarn change device 2) Accumulator Recently weft yarn insertion speed is very high. So it is difficult to insert directly from package. Therefore necessary yarn per one weft is wound on cone shape drum of accumulator and inserted.

Accumulator 10) Knitting There are 2 kind of knitting way. 1) Weft knitting 2) Warp knitting. a) Circular knitting underwere, etc. b) Flat knitting sweater, etc. Curtain etc.

1) Package supply on knitting machine

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Circular knitting top creel

Circular knitting side creel

Flat knitting 2) Difference between weaving and knitting

Knitting Yarn knits and makes loop fabric. 3) Knitting of each kind of knitting 1) Circular knitting 2) Flat knitting Weaving Yarn crossover and makes loop fabric.

A) Weft knitting Loop is made to weft direction.

Knitting loop of weft knitting

Movement of needle

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Image of circular knitting B) Warp knitting Loop is made to warp direction.

Image of warp knit loop and needle Warp knit machine

4) Characteristic points of knitting A) Advantage Elongation Less ruck Soft Causual Easy to loose loop Easy to lose silhouette Easy to make hole

B) Disadvantage

5) Knitting product Underwear Innerwear Outerwear Sportswear

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Socks Sweater

6) Knitting process A) After dying Knitting Dying Fabric cut - Sawing B) Dying yarn Package dying Rewinding Knitting Fabric cut - Sawing

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3) Summary a) Process Summary of Cotton 100% and Cotton Blended Yarn Warehouse

Opening & Blowing

Carding

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Combing

Drawing

Roving

Spinning

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Winding

b) Comparison of cotton in each by each Process

Card Sliver

Drawing Sliver Comber Sliver Rover

Spinning Yarn

c) Process Summary of Weaving Warper

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Sizing

Tying

Drawing

Weaving

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