1.

1 ALIGNMENT OF SHAFT CENTER LINE: Hereunder described in respect of the propulsion shaft, struts, kort nozzle and rudder stock should be followed this description. 1. The looking through must always be performed after the hull work of the aft body and concerning engine division has been completed. 2. It is desirable to be carried out alignment and bore sighting toward eve ning to midnight, so as the temperature difference between inboard and open air becomes within two (2) degrees approximately. 3. Temporary reinforcements and shores should be removed so that the boat h ull will be free from any restraint. 4. A piano-wire type is used for looking through, in case a short distance such as small ships or tugs is handy to use, while the catenary of piano wire s hould be taken care even it is stretched strongly. 5. Center lines of the propulsion shaft, strut (Y-Bracket), kort nozzle and rudder stock ought to intersect each other, the least error may be allowed with in five (5) millimeter approximately. 1.1.1 Purpose of looking through shaft center line:

Preliminary looking through: ( a ) Set the center line of the shaft.

( b ) Determine the position of the engine seat, and the intermediate shaft bearings. ( c ) Determine the position of the stern tube and shaft bracket. Looking through: ( a ) Determine the finishing allowance of the boss, stern tube and gudgeon.

( b ) Determine the finishing allowance of liners on the engine seat and shaft bearing. ( c ) Determine the length of main shafts.

1.1.2. Schedule for looking through shaft center line. As the steel ship hull will deform due to welding, heating for strain removal, h ull blocks erecting hydraulic test, etc., the schedule should be determined so a s after these works, at least the part mentioned above section 1.1, have been co mpleted satisfactorily, and under considering subsequent works given in the sche dule for shafting works chart, thus the date may at least three (3) to four (4) weeks prior to scheduled launching. Other matters that demand special attention will be as follows: Hull blocks of after body should be erected under measuring the shaft center lin e, and should also consider the relation with cocking down. For small vessel like tugs, the welding, plate fairing and the like of aft hull blocks may be performed with both sides symmetrically if possible. The data of the preliminary looking through may be determined three (3) to four( 4) days prior to the main and final looking through under considering the instal lation and welding of the engine seat (bed), shaft stool and stern tube.

 Matters affect to the shaft center, such as heating, hydraulic test or loading w eights ought not to be performed during the boring after the looking through.

1.

Check propeller shaft Fifteen minutes with a dial indicator while the shaft is still installed can save a lot of agony later. If you don't have a dial indicator, yo u can use the following method. Rest a pointed stick on the rudder, aligning the pointed end with the machined center of the shaft, than rotate the shaft. Any d eviation will be apparent indicating the tapered end of the shaft may be bent. 1. Bearing check

Make sure the cutlass bearing is tight. If there is any play of the shaft in the cutlass bearing, the bearing needs to be replaced. Please note that certain typ es of water lubricated bearings require clearance. If your yacht is fitted with such a bearing, contact the manufacturer and ask them what the maximum allowable clearance is. 2. Check key and keyway

Check that the key fits the keyway. The key should slide easily through the keyw ay, with no apparent slop. It may be helpful to note the direction of the key in the keyway. 3. Propeller fit

Dry fit the propeller to the shaft, without the key in place. Check that the pro peller does not rock on the taper. Mark the shaft at the forward end of the prop eller hub. 4. Fit propeller to shaft

It is good practice to "lap" the propeller to the shaft. It only takes a few min utes and will improve the fit. Purchase some coarse valve grinding compound from an automotive supply store. Liberally coat the tapered end of the shaft and the bore of the propeller with the grinding paste. Slide the propeller onto the sha ft. Apply gentle pressure and rotate the propeller on the shaft 90 to the right , then 90 to the left and repeat this several times. Occasionally remove the propell er from the shaft and wipe out the valve grinding compound and visually inspect the bore. Continue this until a minimum fit of 75% is achieved. Most valve grind ing compounds are water soluble and wash off easily with soap and water. 5. Check propeller position

Carefully clean the propeller and the shaft and check the "dry fit" once more. Y ou will probably notice that the propeller goes to a different position on the s

haft than before. Mark this new position.

6.

Install propeller

Install the propeller with the key fitted to the shaft. Some people prefer to us e a lubricant on the shaft, we do not recommend this. Check that the propeller g oes up to the mark on the propeller shaft. If it doesn t, the propeller is sitting o n the key and you must reduce the height of the key to overcome this problem. Dr aw the propeller up the taper using the propeller locking nut, then lock this nu t with the second nut. Don't forget to fit a new cotter pin. 7. Shaft zinc

One word about shaft zinc s. They should be as far forward on the shaft as possible, or as near to the cutlass bearing as practical. You are trying not to disturb t he water flow to the propeller. 8. Alignment check

After the boat has been in the water for 24 hrs, the engine alignment should be checked. 9. Vessel performance

You should record your vessels performance after the hull is cleaned and the pro peller is tuned. Take note of your top RPM and speeds achieved. This data will b e useful the next time you fine tune your propellers. 10. Painting propellers

Painting your propellers will degrade the performance. Barnacles, on the other hand will degrade the performance more than properly applied paint. If you use the boat often painting is not necessary. If you have the bottom regularly clean ed then painting is also not required. On the other hand, if you are like most o f us and use the boat not as often as you would like, then painting may be helpf ul. Follow the procedure below when painting propellers: A. The propellers will be clean when you receive them apart from a light coat of oil. Remove this oil film using alcohol or acetone. B. Choose a good quality Zinc Chromate primer and lightly coat the propellers. C. The anti-fouling paint to use on the propellers is sold under various trade n ames as Outdrive Anti-fouling Paint in spray cans. Spray 2-3 light even coats of paint on the propellers taking care not to get any paint into the bore of the hub. D. Allow at least 48 hours drying time before putting the propellers into servic e. E. Dont apply standard anti foul paint with a brush as it tends to "spin off" th e propellers quickly and can not be applied as evenly as spray paint.