Why is Paris the capital of fashion?

There are a number of reasons, mostly dating back to the 18th century, although it can be argued that Paris fashion hegemony started well before that. While it lost ground during World War II, it came back with a vengeance and has remained the mainstay of fashionest since.Haute Couture began in the 18th century, but the French had been looked to with admiration or disdain in their dress sense well before that. In the 16th century, Anne Boleyn was famous for wearing a French-style hood, which showed her hair and had a generally provocative style. Even then, the French were famous for their liberal attitude towards sexuality. In the 18th century, couturier Rose Bertin was named the Minister for Fashion and the position was still retained in the Napoleonic era. Initially, it was the rich and powerful telling the designers what they wanted to wear in clothes, but in the 19th century, this changed. It was, surprisingly, an Englishman working in Paris who became the father of modern Haute Couture when Charles Worth put his name on his clothing labels. He went a step further, creating designs based on his own ideas and displaying them on live models so that clients could approve or disapprove. The novelty was a success and designers then began to dictate what was fashionable. From then on, it was understood that any designer who wanted to be a success had to be in Paris and become part of a couture house or form their own. Paris was the home of fashion shows and all the fashion magazines were either based in or looked to Paris for their information. For women throughout the Western world, Paris was the be all and end all of clothes. London, New York and Milan can all lay claim to some fashion influence. Especially during World War II, New York and London made inroads while Paris was occupied by Germany. But when the war was over, designers returned to Paris and couture reigned again. Chanel was still popular, but Dior became one of the most influential designers of the mid-century. Joined by Yves Saint Laurent and other prominent designers, Paris cemented its hold on style. But why is Paris the capital of fashion today? Simply because little has changed, despite the drop in the number of couture houses. The most important fashion shows still take place in Paris and more aspiring designers go to the city to learn and showcase their work than they do London, New York or Milan. To better understand why Paris is the capital of fashion, you need to consider the golden triangle a shopping district in Paris dedicated exclusively to high fashion clothes and accessories. The triangle lives between the Avenue Marceau, the Champs-Elysees and the Avenue Montaigne. In it, you will find the homes of Vuitton, Givenchy, Rochas, Dior, Celine, Chanel, Donna Karan and Hermes, just to start you off. Although there are certainly those who try to claim otherwise, Paris is still the fashion capital of the world. While it is true that the fashion magazines and designers dont have the absolute power they once did, the ability to be flexible and understand changing tastes and trends is what keeps Paris a magnet for the fashion world. The idea of a Paris Original may not thrill women the way it once did, but people certainly still respond to interesting, inventive and wearable clothes and item for item, the bulk of those still come from Paris.

Why London is still a fashion capital

On the eve of Fashion Week, some of the industrys most influential movers and shakers explain why the capital still cuts a dash when it comes to global style
Avril Groom The last seams are being neatened and seating plans finalised London Fashion Week opens tomorrow for another season of hype and delight. Next years event will be the 25th since it started as a few exhibition stands in a London hotel. Now its a thoroughly professional outfit, with more than 50 official shows, nearly as many off-schedule ones and several major exhibitions the showcase for a 750 million designer-fashion industry that exports 500 million worth of clothes annually, not to mention acclaimed designers to work worldwide. Even the Prime Ministers wife is throwing a party. Fashion Week is the subject both of effusive reporting and vexed debate everyone agrees that London is inspiring and exciting, but short of funds and manufacturing facilities. In the words of Hilary Riva, of the British Fashion Council, it will never be Milan or Paris, but its creativity and diversity are the best. The people who make it happen from designers and models to editors and retailers care passionately about it. We asked those who are most influential right now what London fashion means to them. Jane Shepherdson

CEO, co-owner and creative overseer of Whistles, where her input is starting to show. The former managing director of Topshop, she set up its New Generation designer sponsorship scheme, and has worked with ethical fashion company People Tree. I couldnt imagine working anywhere but London. The rawness, energy and dynamism are unique. We take more fashion risks and were more irreverent. British people are not afraid to be different, try new silhouettes, even look a bit silly. Women here arent desperate to look sexy, slick and glossy. We have youngsters of all nationalities in our design studio, but 99 per cent of them are Britishtrained. The lack of investment in this country is not in people but in facilities. Whistles, for example, has only five per cent of its manufacturing here and thats in really specialist areas. The reason may be historical we simply dont have those long-established, European-style luxury companies.

Its hard for designers to rise above the 600,000 turnover level investors start at 2 million. Wed like to help with that, and, likewise, the ethical side, by using small suppliers. Our customers demand it another area where Britain is ahead of the curve. Giles Deacon British Designer of the Year 2006 and the most sophisticated performer of the younger generation. Previously worked for Gucci and had a full complement of supermodels in his first solo show. Also designs a range for New Look. I travel a lot and glean ideas from everywhere, but the London environment encourages adventure, playfulness and independence. We may not have the big organisations in this country, but we do get support. I benefited from the Fashion Forward scheme and my consultancies, such as New Look, are brilliant both for cash-flow and exposure the industry can see that I understand more than just the top end. As for manufacture, I go where a specific item is made best France, Italy and Scotland for knitwear, Suffolk for woven silk. Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos Hot-ticket design duo about to hold their first on-schedule London Fashion Week show. Met while training at Antwerps famous Royal Academy of Fine Arts.