ROLE OF HERBS IN COSMETOLOGY & ITS IMPORTANCE

People on all continents have used hundreds to thousands of indigenous plants for treatment of ailments since prehistoric times. Medicinal herbs were found in the personal effects of tzi the Iceman, whose body was frozen in the tztal Alps for more than 5,300 years. In the written record, the study of herbs dates back over 5,000 years to the Sumerians, who described wellestablished medicinal uses for such plants as laurel, caraway, and thyme. Ancient Egyptian medicine of 1000 B.C. are known to have used garlic, opium, castor oil, coriander, mint, indigo, and other herbs for medicine and the Old Testament also mentions herb use and cultivation, including mandrake, vetch, caraway, wheat, barley, and rye. In the ancient times, the Indian sages believed that Ayurvedic herbs are one-stop solutions to cure a number of health related problems and diseases. They conducted thorough study about the same; experimented with herbs to arrive at accurate conclusions about the efficacy of different plants and herbs that have medical value. Indian Ayurveda medicine has used herbs such as turmeric possibly as early as 1900 B.C. Many other herbs and minerals used in Ayurveda were later described by ancient Indian herbalists such as Charaka and Sushruta during the 1st millennium BC. The Sushruta Samhita attributed to Sushruta in the 6th century BC describes 700 medicinal plants, 64 preparations from mineral sources, and 57 preparations based on animal sources. The ancient Greeks and Romans made medicinal use of plants.
Greek and Roman medicinal practices, as preserved in the writings of Hippocrates and - especially - Galen, provided the pattern for later western medicine.

Herbs actually have a variety of uses other than as medicinal herbs, it has its uses in culinary and sometimes in spiritual usages. In recent times the herbs have found its large scale use in cosmetology. The recent interest of consumers in herbal cosmetics has been stimulated by its commendable result and the decline of faith in modern cosmetics, the belief that plant remedies were natural and thereby superior to man-made cosmetics, the increasing desire of people to look fair and beautiful, and the reference to successful use by different cultures. The reasons have contributed to the increased acceptance as well as manufacture of herbal cosmetic.

We all know that, Beauty is the quality which gives pleasure to the senses and is perhaps the desire of every human being on this earth. The persons in order to enhance their beauty uses stuffs called Cosmetics Products. By the European Directive 93/35/EEC (European Commission), the cosmetic products are defined as any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to clearing them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conditions. The people of the ancient world used the grounded leaves and seeds of herbs on their hair, face and over-all body drank herbal tonics and applied oils obtained from herbs for different bodymassages. These treatments were used during that time in countries like Rome, China and Latin America. Indian Ayurveda too has been promoting the use of herbs for skin and beauty for over 5000 years. Herbs can be used for beauty in original or compound form. They act against the internal impurities and external toxins of our body, add additional nutrients to it, make it glow and shine. Herbs provide natural, flawless treatment to our skin; nourish it from within, leading to its internal development. In Charaka Samhita, numerous herbs like Nagkeshara (Mesua ferrea Linn.), Padmaka (Prunus serotina Ehrh.), Yashtimadhu (Glycyrrhiza glabra Linn.), Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia Linn.), etc. were described for glowing the complexion and for the other skin disorders. Kushthagna Mahakashaya denotes the compound formulation containing Khadira (Acacia catechu Willd.), Abhaya (Terminalia chebula Retz.), Amalaki (Phyllanthus niruri Hook. f.), Bhallataka (Semecarpus anacardium Linn. f.), Saptaparna (Alstonia scholaris R. Br.), Aragvadha (Centella asiatica (Linn.)Urban), Karavira (Nerium indicum Mill.), and Jati (Glycyrrhiza blabra) used as effective curative for skin disorders. The knowledge of herbal cosmetics is represented now-a-days by both orally transmitted folk information and newer information generated by modern scientific studies. Herbal products like extracts; oils and powders have been used in cosmetics as either active moieties or as excipients. Herbal extracts used in cosmetics Herbal extracts are primarily added to the cosmetic preparations due to several associated properties such as antioxidant properties. These antioxidant botanicals are generally classified into three categories depending upon the nature of their constituents as carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols. The carotenoids are structurally related to vitamin A and constitute various retinols like retinoic acid. Flavonoids, in addition to the antioxidant action, impart the UV protection and

metal chelating properties. The polyphenolics is a large class and contains molecules like rosemarinic acid (rosemary), hypericin (Saint Johns Wort) and oleirupein (olive leaf). Apart from these, herbal extracts have also been used for the topical anti-inflammatory changes and the result cutaneous ageing and thus may be helpful in reversing the signs of ageing. Thus, the herbs can be used for following therapeutic activities: a. Antioxidant properties. b. Anti-inflammatory properties c. Topical anaesthetics and anti-pruritics. d. Anti cellulites. e. Hair loss treatment. Some Indian medicinal plants, which have been studied in detail for their use in cosmetics, are being discussed here.

Trigonella foenum-graecum Linn. (Fenugreek) It has aphrodisiac, astringent, cooling and emollient properties. It offers many dermatological solutions for complete skin and mucous membrane. The British Herbal Pharmacopoeia mentions demulcent, nutritive and exigenic properties of the plant. Cosmetic applications are in hair care, hair loss, hair colouring, skin cleansing, skin toning and stimulation, and useful for facial skin care. Externally the seeds are emollient and accelerate the healing of suppurations and inflammations.

Azadirachta indica A. Juss. (Neem) Every part of Neem tree (bark, fruit, seed, flowers, leaves, gum and sap) is used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Its use has been indicated in boils, catarrhal affections, eczema and many other skin related disorders. Cosmetically, the chemical constituents of the neem are considered to be antiseptic and natural preservative. Limonoids and tetranortriterpenoids of the neem are used in the various cosmetic preparations like, toothpastes, soaps and shampoo.

Mimosa tenuiflora (Willd.) Poiret (Mimosa) It contains several tannins, lactones, favonoids, saponins and numerous oligo elements, which are antibacterial, astringent and UV protective. It is recommended for the products with cutaneous regeneration activity, sun or after-sun protection products because of its healing repairing and re-equilibrating properties. It is included in cosmetic products related to capillary resistance, improvement in peripheral microcirculation like dermatological application, acne gels, etc. It is also used in astringent lotions. Aloe vera Linn. (Aloe) It is also known as Lily of desert of the Plant of Immortality. Its emollient, purgative and vulnerary properties have been reported. It is recommended for sunburn, minor burns, wrinkles, insect bites, skin irritations, minor cuts and scratches. Research has shown that the clear gel has a dramatic ability to heal wounds, ulcers and burns by putting a protective coating on the affected areas and speeds up the healing rate. The inner portion of the leaf contains a hydrocolloid, which is composed of polyhexanoses and hexanes such xylose, arabinose and glactose. The mucilaginous gel obtained from the leaves of the plant has long been used for its healing and cosmetic properties. The mucilaginous gel acts as a film and has a pH, which is directly compatible with that of the skin. One of the most valuable cosmetic properties aloe gel is its ability to stimulate the circulation of the skin and removes the dead skin cells, so giving a fresher and young appearance to the skin. It also clears away blemishes, protects the skin against infections and reduces wrinkles. Aloe shampoo helps to combat dry and brittle hair. The gel is also reported to contain salicylic acid, which has keratolytic and bacteriostatic properties. It is also cited as being a prophylactic for dry skin, which is prone to inflammation because of its antiphlogistic, bacteriostatic and moisturizing qualities. Curcuma longa Linn. (Turmeric) The paste of turmeric powder has been used as antiseptic and for skin nourishment since centuries. Curcumin, the active compound of turmeric, is a polyphenol used in skin care preparations. Its hydrogenated form, tetrahydrocurcumin, has a dual function of being an antioxidant and to protect lipids in moisturizers from becoming rancid. Curcumin also has antiinflammatory activity by inhibiting leukotriene formation, inhibiting platlet aggregation and stabilizing neutrophilic lysosomal membranes.

Santalum album Linn. (Chandan) Chandan is internally as well externally applied to our body. Internal treatment is through chandan pills which are orally taken. The external application of chandan is through oil, stick, powder and paste derived from the herb. The aromatic essence of chandan has made it favourite of the beauty industry. It possesses various soothing qualities that effectively work against skin ailments and allergies. Chandan herbal face pack and scrubs made from chandan powder cleanses our skin thoroughly and brings a healthy glow to it. Matricaria chamomilla Linn. (Chamomile) Basically, Chamomile is used in skin remedies, eye treatment and hair care. Face masks, oil, body lotions, creams and stem of chamomile are used in skin care. Chamomile oil is used to remove acne and other similar skin diseases. This herb is antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory. As a measure against hair malnourishment, chamomile hair care products are frequently preferred over the rest. Lawsonia alba Lam. (Heena) Though predominantly used in hair nourishment, henna is also applied on the skin in various forms. For hair care henna paste is made from the powdery extract of the henna plant. It is then mixed with the egg white and thoroughly applied for thick, shiny hair. In combination with coffee powder, amla powder and onion peels henna make a perfect hair conditioner. Henna is also used to colour the body, primarily hands and feet and for making temporary tattoos on the skin. Rosemarinic Acid (Rosemary) The uses of rosemary in beauty care can be put under three categories: skin, scalp and hair treatment. This herb provides a refreshing look to our skin by revitalizing and energizing our dead cells. Rosemary oil comes to fullest use in scalp massage which is done to prevent premature hair loss. The shampoo, lotions and other hair care products of rosemary takes adequate care of hair nourishment. Other extracts of this herb include perfumes and soaps.

Besides the above listed herbs, there are a variety of others used in cosmetic industry namely, Acacia concinna DC (Shikakai), Acorus calamus Linn. (Sweetflag), Allium satvium Linn.

(Garlic), Cereus grandiflorus Mill. (Cactus), Cichorium intybus Linn. (Chicory), Citrullus vulgaris Schrad. (Water melon), Citrus medica Linn. (Lemon), Cucumis sativum Linn. (Cucumber), Foeniculum vulgare Mill (Fennel), Malus pumila (Apple), Panax ginseng Mey. (Ginseng) etc. Although the term herbal extract inherently purports to have beneficial and benign properties, these extracts may have adverse reactions in individuals. For example, they can be a possible source of allergenicity in patients presenting with contact dermatitis. Therefore, it is suggested that the regulatory authorities should attend the issue of ensuring quality and safety of herbal cosmetic products immediately before embarking on the more arduous task of efficacy.

C o n c l u s i o n
The present review focuses on the potential of herbal extracts for cosmetic purposes. It also makes an attempt to give scientific account of use of herbal extracts in cosmetics. The addition of herbal extracts for therapeutic or for excipient purpose requires better understanding of the modern ingredients and herbal extracts. More sophisticated formulations containing herbal extracts are expected to appear in the future as cosmetics. The present trend towards cosmetics with therapeutic potency will continue and several newer herbs will find place in cosmetic world. In the end, the newer research will result in herbal cosmetics of superior quality and efficacy to offer to consumers.