BUYING A DIAMOND - an impartial guide

KNOW YOUR DIAMONDS Formed in the depth of our planet diamond is the hardest natural material known to man, where hardness is defined as resistance to scratching and is graded between 1 and 10 using the Moh's scale of mineral hardness. Diamond has a hardness of 10 on this scale. Diamond's hardness has been known since ancient times and is the source of its name admas, which is from ancient Greek, meaning 'proper' or 'unalterable'. Buying diamonds or diamond jewellery is always an important, emotional and serious event, Roughly half of all diamonds are mined in central and southern Africa, although considerable sources of the mineral have been discovered in Canada, India, Russia, Brazil, and Australia. Diamonds are mined from kimberlite and lamproite volcanic pipes deep within the Earth where high pressures and temperatures enable them to form and travel to the surface. The mining and distribution of natural diamonds are subjects of frequent controversy over the sale of blood diamonds or conflict diamonds by African paramilitary groups.

DIAMOND CARAT
A diamond's weight is represented in carats. Carat is a measurement of weight, NOT size. Weight impacts the price most dramatically out of the various diamond characteristics. This is why some diamonds have poor cut to retain diamond rough and larger carat size equating to a higher selling price. Diamond size is dependant on your budget and needs to be considered equally with the other characteristics of colour, cut and clarity in order to purchase a quality diamond. One diamond carat is divided into 100 points; a diamond that is of a carat is also 75 points. One carat is the equivalent of 0.2 grams. A large diamond with poor cut, colour and clarity will appear less eye catching than a smaller diamond with excellent cut, colour and clarity so a delicate balance is required. Speak to DiamondGeezer.com about balance and how to achieve your desired diamond size whilst balancing the other characteristics in a harmonious mix around your budgetary requirements.

Diamond carat weight affects the price of diamonds more than any other determinant. A diamond that is double the size of another diamond can be up to four times the price. This significant movement in price is because of the relative scarcity of larger diamonds. A combination of a large size (1 carat+) with the best colour (D), best clarity (IF) and excellent/ideal cut is so rare the price is multiplied several times when comparing a similar size with poorer features. The popular carat sizes are 0.50ct, 0.75ct, 1.00ct, 1.50ct and 2.00ct. Often diamond cutters will leave more rough diamond in order to achieve a larger carat weight and achieve a higher selling price. There are often bargains to be found at just under these most popular sizes and many of these bargains can have superior cuts which equate to more diamond sparkle and life. Diamonds with thick to very thick girdles are often intentionally cut to increase weight and this doesnt improve performance it just costs you more (something to watch for). In recent years, having a 1.00 carat+ diamond was the best and most desired with no regard to quality, but as consumers are educated, (mainly because of the internet), more emphasis is placed on cut and visual performance. In the coming years dinner table diamond talk will be around quality rather than size and this could be something to consider.

SUMMARY
In summary a carat is a weight and does not always relate to size/ measurement although the two are usually proportional. A diamond cutter will often retain as much diamond rough as possible and forego cut in order to increase weight and maintain a higher price. Often this carat increase can make the diamond a poorer cut and less visually performing than a smaller diamond. Carat and then clarity are the two key price drivers and often shopping for diamonds just under the popular sizes of 0.50ct, 0.75ct, 1.00ct, 1.50ct, and

2.00ct can yield a better cut and a cheaper price. As consumers understand more about diamonds less emphasis will be placed on size and more on diamond quality. Its easy to have the biggest car but should a Cadillac cost more than a Lamborghini?

DIAMOND SHAPE, POLISH & SYMMETRY

DIAMOND SHAPE (CUT)

The cut of a diamond can be ambiguous as it refers to both the shape in a general sense and then the actual cut quality or make in a more detailed description. There are many diamond shapes; the most popular is the round brilliant diamond. The round brilliant is the classic diamond shape and contains 58 facets including the culet. The round brilliant shape is the most expensive as it is usually possible to retain more carat size by cutting to fancy shapes than cut to a round. The choice of shape is your personal preference, below are some pictures of different diamond shapes:

The term cut in an accurate sense defines the Diamonds make, ie. symmetry and dimensions. The diamond's cut influences its ability to handle light refraction and create sparkle, scintillation and life. When a diamond is well cut the diamond's facets will be in alignment and allow light to refract within and then disperse through the top of the diamond. With perfect light dispersion comes the beautiful diamond sparkle that every girl dreams of. At DiamondGeezer.com we have created a sparkle factor to assist our shoppers click our link to shop.

DIAMOND SYMMETRY
Diamond symmetry is graded using what appear to be vague adjectives but are in fact precise qualitiy tags: Ex = Excellent, ID = Ideal [Different terms use by different labs. they are the same quality] VG = Very Good G = Good F = Fair P = Poor A symmetry that maximizes the optimal light return is known as Excellent or Ideal, illustrated as perfect below. Diamonds with Premium and Very Good symmetry are well cut diamonds and have an abundant sparkle and presence. Good symmetry represents value for money but will not capture all the potential light return but will have a nice sparkle. Fair and Poor cuts should be avoided as they may be too shallow or deep and have a less than satisfactory performance (as illustrated below, shallow/deep).

DIAMOND POLISH
Diamond Polish is also graded like symmetry with what appear to be vague adjectives but are in fact precise qualitiy tags: Ex = Excellent, ID = Ideal [Different terms use by different labs. they are the same quality] VG = Very Good G = Good F = Fair P = Poor These quality codes define the finished surface of the diamonds facets. A diamond can have different textures and direction of the carbon composition. This means that when polishing a diamonds facets different directional movement and various degrees of coarseness will give a better finish or polish. Diamond polish can be compared to sanding wood, cutting meat or painting; there is a general direction and texture to be observed for excellence. An excellent or very good polish will perform better than a good polish and a fair or poor polish could have noticeable blemish marks and should be avoided. General value and performance can be found with Good to Very Good polish with ExcellentIdeal Polish a premium for the best finish.

HEARTS AND ARROWS

Hearts and Arrows are a visual spectacle within certain diamonds. This pretty pattern was first recognised by the Japanese in the 1980s using a viewing scope gadget. Viewing hearts and arrows (H & A) patterns in diamonds does not guarantee excellent or ideal symmetry. It is true that perfect hearts and arrows means that facets have been well aligned but there are many different shaped hearts and arrows, simply viewing this phenomenon isnt proof of a well cut, well proportioned diamond. If the heart is split and not perfectly formed it fails and should the arrow shafts not align with the arrow heads then they too fail. Very precise analysis is required to ascertain the perfect shape of the hearts and arrows and this must be performed under near microscopic conditions using the novel toylike Hearts and Arrows Scope. There are 8 hearts and 8 arrows, if any one of these 16 patterns does not perfectly align it is not true H & A. Although nice to have there is a premium attached to the visual bonus; also note that once the diamond is set in a ring the hearts will no longer be visible. For this reason, if you're not a collector, investor or a connoisseur focus should be on the reported symmetry ie: Excellent/Ideal, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor. Its interesting to note that any cubic zirconia (CZ) which is an artificial synthetic diamond bought for a few cents will almost always show H & A in fact we have marketing paper weights the size of tennis balls that show Hearts and Arrows so dont be too taken by this cleaver marketing visual.

SUMMARY
In summary it is important to have a quality cut diamond and more emphasis is now placed on excellent and ideal cuts to which there is a premium. Very good symmetry is still a quality diamond and these represent good value and performance. Good symmetry is suitable for shoppers on a tight budget with better carat size and clarity taking preference. A good cut will still sparkle and does represent value although a very good cut is a benchmark to achieve. Fair and Poor cuts should be avoided when possible as they will leak light and be visually unspectacular. Review the cut grades on a reputable diamond certificate; we list all the information on over 50,000 diamonds.

DIAMOND COLOUR
The diamond colour scale was devised by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the mid 1950's to define and regulate the colour spectrum of diamonds. The GIA proposed starting at D as the best and most colourless diamond available. The colour D was chosen because diamond dealers were already using A, B and C and a break was required to regulate and harmonize the industry. The diamond colour scale progresses through the alphabet from D until Z. The graphic below illustrates the GIA colour scale. GIA Colour Grading Scale

Diamonds that are colourless, D, E or F are very rare and with a very limited supply they demand premium prices. Less than 1% of all diamonds are colourless and so the market demands a premium because of the scarcity. The diamond colours D, E or F are regarded as the 'collection colours' because they are so scarce and fantastically white. For the untrained and unaided eye, it is very difficult to distinguish between D, E or F colours as they are all colourless with miniscule difference in colour. Diamonds that are colours G, H, I, or J are classified near-colourless and represent very good value. G and H are the more saught after in this particular near-colourless group and are also termed 'rare white diamonds'. Diamonds in I and J colours are slightly warmer and do command a reduction in price. DiamondGeezer.com would recommend clients buy H and above and drop below this colour grade only if price or carat size is the principle criteria. In saying that there is occasions when slight to medium fluorescence can interact with natural ultra violet light and bring a warmer diamond up a colour grade so this combination is worthy of further investigation, [see our section on diamond fluorescence]. A white gold or platinum setting will show up a diamond's colour as these metals are very white. Because gold is naturally yellow, yellow gold will make a colourless diamond appear more yellow. The use of a yellow gold bezel style setting can help a warmer diamond appear a grade or two higher and can be considered if yellow gold is preferred, [see our section on diamond jewellery]. Colour grades of K to Z show visible signs of yellow colour and are not in demand. These colours are viewed as being poorer quality and there is less demand by the industry and consumers which is a little hard on these natural diamonds. Colours K to Z are fantastic in dress rings, brooches and alternative jewellery but the single solitaire engagement ring demands a better, whiter coloured diamond. It is the generally agreed conception that they are not as beautiful as colourless diamonds until they reach a point where the colour becomes so evident they become beautiful fancy colours which have very high values (Z+ or Fancy). Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and colour choice is ultimately a personal preference with different cultures, socioeconomic groups and nationalities having different requirements. Even the light yellow diamonds from N to Z are still nature's miracles that have taken millions of years to crystallise and will always be preferable and have more kudos than a man made synthetic gem stone. In summary the colour spectrum of diamonds starts at D and ends at Z and then into the fancy colours. The most expensive 'white diamonds' are the colourless diamonds D, E or F and then the near-colourless G, H, I,

or J with G and H being universally most popular. The spectrum then gets a visible yellow hue from K-Z and the price becomes cheaper as these diamonds are more readily available.

DIAMOND CLARITY
The clarity of a diamond refers to inclusions which can be black, grey or white marks that internally flaw the diamonds structure. These small imperfections are graded under 10 x magnification which is the standard to grade diamond clarity. A diamond with fewer inclusions is both rarer and more desired which makes it also more expensive. Diamond clarity from IF to VS2 will sparkle with intensity whereas diamonds from SI1 to SI2 will sparkle and I1 to I3 will lack sparkle and life with the inclusions being noticeable to the naked eye. All conditions being constant, the less inclusions the greater the life and sparkle of a diamond and the more one will pay.

Clarity is synonymous with purity, lucidity and calm. The dictionary quite appropriately mentions spotlessness which can be quite literally applied to diamond clarity. A diamonds clarity grade is determined under a 10 times magnification by trained gemologists. Although very strict guidelines are in place it is open to judgment and a prudent approach is always highly regarded. This prudent approach is why choosing a diamond with a reputable certification report is very important. DIAMOND CLARITY The clarity of a diamond refers to inclusions which can be black, grey or white marks that internally flaw the diamonds structure. These small imperfections are graded under 10 x magnification which is the standard to grade diamond clarity. A diamond with fewer inclusions is both rarer and more desired which makes it also more expensive. Diamond clarity from IF to VS2 will sparkle with intensity whereas diamonds from SI1 to SI2 will sparkle and I1 to I3 will lack sparkle and life with the inclusions being noticeable to the naked eye. All conditions being constant, the less inclusions the greater th e life and sparkle of a diamond and the more one will pay. Clarity is synonymous with purity, lucidity and calm. The dictionary quite appropriately mentions spotlessne ss which can be quite literally applied to diamond clarity. A diamonds clarity grade is determined under a 10 times magnification by trained gemologists. Although very strict guidelines are in place it is open to judgment and a prudent approach is always highly regarded. This prudent approach is why choosing a diamond with a reput able certification report is very important. TYPICAL IMPERFECTIONS CIRCLED IN RED

IF = Internally Flawless (IF) An internally flawless IF diamond is very special because there are no internal inclusions, nature has made it perfect. A very small percentage of diamonds are this perfect and when given as a symbol of love

this characteristic is highly regarded. The emotional link between a diamond and a couples union makes the flawless diamond the most revered and sought after. Because of this emotional and symbolic attachment, diamond clarity has the greatest influence on price after carat weight or size. Can there be a more powerful gesture than to propose and declare your love with a D Flawless diamond?

VVS = Very Very slightly inclusion (VVS1 and VVS2) A diamond with very very slight inclusions, VVS1, has an amount of non crystallized carbon often situate d around the girdle or edge of the diamond. A very very slight inclusion, VVS2, will have inclusions of the sam e size but closer to the table or center of the diamond. Both VVS grades represent high quality and a near perfect clarity. Diamonds with IF or VVS characteristics are considered investment quality and the purist will insist on this clarity. Having few inclusions will improve the performance of light return and sparkle so these diamonds are sought after for their beauty. The price is proportional to the amount of inclusions in every diamond and IF, VVS diamonds have a significant premium because of the scarcity.

VS = Very Slightly included (VS1 and VS2) VS quality diamonds represent good value and retain a high clarity rating. A VS1 diamond will contain inclusions around the girdle or edge and the VS2 will have a similar amount of inclusions around the table and more central areas of the diamond. VS quality diamonds are eye-clean, which suggests that no visible marks can be seen with the naked eye, and we recommend this classification for quality minded Purchasers.

SI = Slightly imperfect small inclusions (Si1, Si2 and Si3) Slight inclusion, Si1 quality diamonds are graded as Si1, Si2 and a no t so common Si3. A Si1 quality diamond is considered to be eye-clean although unaided but very close viewing or a trained eye could identify the inclusions. The fact that such concentrated unaided analysis is not normally performed by brides to be or their friends at dinner parties make these diamond popular as they are priced significantly bel ow the VS quality diamonds. Having an eye-clean diamond is the preference in nearly all diamond buyers and we would stress that Si1 diamonds are considered eyeclean because the location of the inclusion is difficult to detect and usually around the edge. However we always add our own particular caveat. 'Stones commonly referred to as eye-clean have no visible marks when viewed with the naked-eye UNLESS you are female.' Slight inclusion, Si2 quality diamonds have slight inclusions they are often located around the table and i nclude black carbon which contrasts to a diamonds whiteness and is more noticeable. We would advis e customers against Si2 clarity diamonds as they usually have at least 1 noticeable inclusion and so we consi

der them unfit to recommend. For the budget shopper who is interested in carat size a Si2 diamond cou ld be appropriate but we would recommend having the diamond professionally reviewed prior to an unsi ghted purchase and we are happy to perform this service. Slight Inclusion, Si3 clarity diamonds are a new scale that the European Gemological Laboratory EGL introduced as there was perceived to be a significan t difference between an SI2 and a I1. The SI3 has not been endorsed by other grading laboratories at th is time and only time will tell if it is ever accepted into main stream grading.

Are all very poor clarity diamonds with an I1 being visibly included. I clarity diamonds loose light return because the inclusions are so large the light that enters the diamond can be refracted at random angle s. The many inclusions also weaken the diamonds durability and a jeweller can more easily chip the ston e when setting it into a ring. These diamonds I1, I2, and I3 are suitable for when size matters and a low bud get requires very poor clarity.

SUMMARY In summary an Internally Flawless IF quality diamond is the very best and is perfect although expensive. Th e IF is the ultimate symbol of what a diamond stands for and is admired because it is simply flawless with o nly minor blemishes on the surface which are manmade, hence internally flawless. Very Very Slight VVS are the next best clarity grade and represent investm ent grade diamonds at a premium price. Very Slight VS diamonds represent excellent value and balance to a diamond and are highly recommended. Slight Inclusion Si quality are considered eyeclean to SI1 and SI2, SI3 you will start to notice inclusions but you may have to look quite hard. I1, I2, I3 [or sometimes refered to as P1,P2,P3] are heavily included diamonds with poor quality and many black carb on markings. Although these spots are natures finger-prints they are undesirable and priced to sell.

DIAMOND CERTIFICATION
Perhaps the 5th C when purchasing a diamond is the CERTIFICATE or diamond report. This important document validates the diamond's characteristics. A diamond certificate from a no name laboratory or jewellery shop is not worth the paper its written on, insist on quality grading documents. The world's foremost diamond report and the leaders in diamond research are the inventors of the 4Cs ; the GIA (Gemological Institute of America). There are other laboratories that also use the GIA methods and/or have a very good reputation they are:

GIA (Gemological Institute of America) - http://www.gia.edu/ AGS (American Gemological Society) - http://www.ags.org/ HRD (Antwerp World Diamond Centre) - http://www.hrd.be/ IGI (International Gemological Institute) - http://www.igiworldwide.com/ EGL (European Gemological Laboratory) - http://www.eglusa.com/

The above diamond grading laboratories are the largest, probably the strictest and certainly and most well known of the international gemological centres. There are subtle differences in grading techniques but the overall consensus is usually very close between these institutions. Any other diamond report may warrant further analysis of the laboratories processes and ability to grade in a consistent and unbiased manner that represents a true and fair diamond report. Because the diamond certificate reports the characteristics we have discussed above its vital and imperative it comes from a reputable source. A diamond valuation or appraisal is significantly different from a diamond report or certificate and should not be confused.

ALWAYS insist laboratory!

on

diamond

certificate

from

major

Remember that when buying a diamond there are many characteristics that need to be balanced and reviewed in order to buy quality within your budget. Every certificate from any lab. will carry its own disclaimer, this from an E.G.L certificate is typical:

'This examination has been carried out using the current gemological procedures of E.G.L. The report or seal expresses an opinion at the time of inspection of the stone, not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal. No representation or warranties as to accuracy are made. Diamond grading is not a science; It represents only the best professional opinion of this company [the EGL], which chooses its own standards or norms. A+/- 20% error of judgement is scientifically possible. E.G.L. is expressly held harmless by customers including, but without limitation for any claims or actions that may arise out of negligence in connection with preparation of this laboratory report or seal, or actions based upon the customer's use of the certificate or seal' DiamondGeezer.com stresses the following poignant points from this:1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Diamond grading is not an exact science A certificate is not a guarantee, valuation or appraisal - It's an assurance A certificate expresses a single opinion at the time of inspection of the stone One man's VS is the next man's Si Our advice, know where you are and insist on a certificate from the stricter labs and the GIA gets our strongest endorsement