Ether Features - 12

Ether Features - 13 Actually rewind I lied. First there was Wies at the train station (located directly behind the bus station) in the tourist office. She welcomed us with a vivacious hello and a tiny thimble-sized shot of thick potent coffee. This is genuine Bosnian coffee, welcome to Sarajevo, she said. Unknown to me at that time, the tourist office in the train station is owned by the hostel so when asking for information on where to stay there was only going to be one option. As my eyes sagged as if they were carrying my luggage I quickly agreed to the free pickup service mentioned. Then, there was Mr. Ljubicica. The first thing I do in every city is walk to a vantage point from which I can look over its entirety. The lookout point in Sarajevo is located right beside the old fortress which you can see if you simply look up. I try to sketch a picture from above in my mind. A mountainous valley in the middle of the Dinaric Alps cradles the old city which was not so long ago held captive, raped and brutalised to within inches of its life. Now, however, the city calmly puffs tufts of smoke insistently from the wood ovens from which the main Bosnian dish cevapcici is grilled. Through the smoke you can see many mosques protruding and reaching for the sky. In the distance I spot a church doing the same. While I sat and took in my surroundings, the Adhan (call to praver for Muslims) is made from the towers of the mosques and the Salah (the ritual prayer) begins. This for me is the Islamic equivalent of the Catholic Church bells in what it provokes inside of you. The sound of the Adhan bounces with an echo amongst the mountainous landscape. It seems inapt in this Balkan setting. According to the UN, 58 percent of the population of Bosnia and Herzegovina are Bosnian Muslims. As you explore the city further you discover the fusion between the wests and the Islams presence here. This is one of the facets of the mesmerizing dynamic of cultures, religions and races of Sarajevo, and Bosnia as a whole. Croatian, Serbian and Bosniak personalities fuse here from their long adoption by Yugoslavia. Then there is the eastern influence from the Ottoman era remaining potently evident. Furthermore, the Habsburg Empire also left their mark on the citys psyche and landscape after building the only three Roman Catholic churches in Sarajevo. As a result of this eventful life, this city and its country have been left with an identity crisis. The old city centre of Sarajevo possesses a village touch, yet still attains the maturity of a capital city. Most of the inner city has been rebuilt since the Siege of Sarajevo, however it is impossible to ignore the numerous ruined buildings which still remain decrepit. This city is a wanderers landscape, perfect for losing your map and yourself. One tour I recommend doing is the Sarajevo tunnel tour. A guide takes you down the tunnel built during the Siege of Sarajevo that allowed supplies to come into the city and for people to leave. At this time, Serbian forces on the fringe of the city continuously shelled the government defenders; snipers peered down on the city keeping the city hostage. Some streets were known as sniper alleys for the likelihood of a person being shot if they crossed it. The tunnel is truly a testament to the resilience of this citys dwellers and the lifeline to what was almost certain death. A stroll around the medieval alleys of the old town market (Stari Grad) is advisable for a change of scenery. This seems to provoke the magnetism in your fingertips to increase as they are drawn to the abundance of finely crafted silver and copper handicrafts, carpets, antiques and souvenir shops. While shopping for souvenirs here do look up and pay attention to the surrounding architecture. A unique marriage between the Ottoman era and the Austrian-Hungarian poque creates a beautiful contrast. Reminders of war are never far away though. Its possible to buy engraved bullet shells at the market; its a constant reminder to look beyond the beautiful make-up of Sarajevo and venture out until you reach your first bullet ridden, gutted building. Be sure to sit amongst the locals and sip on another of those typical Bosnian coffees. My experiences with people were always humorous and warm. Bosnia still seems removed from the popular tourist destinations so people are delighted to speak with you. Strangely enough the majority speak more German than English (how preposterous I said in my best butler English). A local girl explained to me that many people fled to Germany and Austria during the Bosnian war and so learnt German. If you get the chance to visit Mostar - Bosnias golden child it is well worth the effort. Its a two hour bus ride on which you will follow the Neretva River until it slips right under the heart of the city and the famous medieval bridge, the Stari Most. While walking up and down its streets you cant help but feel like you have wandered on to the movie set for some kind of Arabic King Arthur production (King Arthur charging with a lance on his camel?!). The sound and presence of the river and the white stoned medieval buildings create a stunning setting. The splendour of Mostar is that there is not much to do here, except sit by the river and enjoy the loud tranquillity. You will have no urge to do anything else. Looking directly into the emerald green colour of the river you become hypnotised into a state of content limpness. Should you want to be brought out of this hypnosis, Mr. Ljubicicas welcome-to-Sarajevo tour on arrival will do the trick

Reason to go there this summer

The Sarajevo Film Festival 15th -23rd Aug The SFF was established in the still-warring capital in 1995, and has progressed into an international film festival aimed at supporting and promoting regional cinema and authors. Last years festival hosted Juliette Binoche, Jeremy Irons, Steve Buscemi and Michael Moore as its principal jurors. Links between Austria and the SFF have been strengthened this year as representatives from Sarajevo visited Graz as special guests of Diagonale, the most important festival of Austrian film. There the entry of Austria into the SFFs competition programme was announced. For more information see www.sff.ba Sarajevo. Like a skier touching the flags, Mr. Ljubicica found it necessary to touch base on the gutter with his left wheel on every curb he took. A man standing in the middle of the road watering his pavement looked up to see Mr. Ljubicicas little yellow speed racer darting towards him. For a moment I was convinced he wouldnt move. However, there seems to be a mutual agreement between them that Mr. Ljubicica is a mad man. I ratify this as my eyes meet with his. I look down to my seat where my now, white-knuckled hands clung to There were scratch marks in the worn velvet seat covers I was not the first nervous passenger on Mr. Ljubicicas welcome-to-Sarajevo-tour. Just as the thought of Mr. Ljubicica as a lonely man, with no family and no regard for his life began to emerge into my head, a sense of calm confidence in him beat it down. I realised something Mr Ljubicica did not just have a lust for speed - he had had a lifelong romance with it. He knew what he was doing. We arrived safely at the hostel office.

How to get there

Austrian Airlines flies twice a day from Vienna to Sarajevo in just over an hour. There is a 12 hour bus ride from Vienna (Erdberg Eurolines bus terminal) to Sarajevo costing approx. 80 Euro return. The bus trip from Sarajevo to Mostar costs approx 8 Euro one-way. Most accommodation is cheap with private rooms as low as 10-20 Euro per person.