Confessions of an Ecotourist

Coming straight off a 24-hour series of connecting flights from Madrid to Jakarta, Andy Johnson has his mind blown by the possibilities and challenges of ecotourism as exemplified on the exceptionally beautiful islands of Indonesia. The second in an occasional series of articles featuring Indonesia (see Junes TBS 158 or the archive on our website www.tbs.com.es for our first piece)

C/O ANDY JOHNSON

It may come as a surprise that the word ecotourism has been around worldwide since the late 1980s. Despite the terms proliferation ever since, defining it still seems to cause as much controversy as it dispels. Outlined as a kind of special interest, nature based tourism or any form of environmentally educational tourism, or as that which just aims to celebrate and to conserve rather than to exploit and plunderor even as tourism aimed at involving and boosting the local economy over and above other concernsthe concept of ecotourism is a slippery creature. As a label, it is often used as a hollow marketing tool or to hide a multitude of sins in terms of a tourism developments dubious environmental credentials; this in the same way that the idea of being green is abused with regard to products and services purporting to respect the environment. As a sector of the tourism industry, it has certainly grown in leaps and bounds in recent years, likely reflecting increasing sophistication in international tourists demands beyond the traditional two week beach & sun break. There does however appear to be a burgeoning interest around the world in the development

ANDREW JOHNSON

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ANDY JOHNSON

of sustainable alternatives to the all-bulldozing mass tourism juggernaut, borneabove allof genuine concern for the planet. Many of the hotels TBS visited on the Indonesian islands of Java and Bali (even one or two of those labelled explicitly as ecotourism destinations) at most paid lip service to the environmentally friendly aspects of ecotourism by including a few energy saving light bulbs here and there and signing up to the widespread Lets Go Green energy conservation initiative encouraging guests to re-use towels rather than repeatedly send them for washing. In some of these spots, air conditioning systems were rarely turned off, even in unoccupied rooms: Ecological concerns can obviously lose out against the pursuit of unbounded luxury. The liberal use of water in some five star developments in Indonesia could give Spains spectacularly wasteful golf courses a run for their money. Indeed, Indonesias own growing number of golf courses pose a serious additional threat to precious water resources. Upon arriving on Java, home to the capital Jakarta and Indonesias (and the worlds) most populous island with nearly 130 million residents, TBS took a whistle-stop tour of some of the countrys flagship ecotourism attractions: Standing boot-deep in ash in the lava-covered moonscape of the village of Kaliadem at the foot of the 2911 metre-high Mt. Gudung Merapi (the most active volcano in Indonesia); riding a rack-and-pinion steam locomotive from Ambarawa to Bedono in central Java; and wandering around the innovative and fascinating Losari Coffee Plantation. We were initially flummoxed as to how travelling on a fossil fuel burning steam train quite fitted in with the old eco business but we at least tried to take as little baggage on board as possible to try and help minimise the coal-

lump quotient as we steamed uphill. Driving our party up to the base of Mt. Merapi (Fire Mountain), 1000m above sea level, our guide Trudy reassured us that only two people had been killed by lava this year, so we should be okay. The last major lava flows through the inhabited areas surrounding the volcano were in April/May and, despite its awesome destructive power, the areas population continues to grow, with villages as high up the slopes as 1700m above sea level. Life continues as normal, and characteristically, the local people make everything of the situation and the area regardless. Merapis ash fosters some of the most fertile soil in the world, with Indonesia as a whole supporting the worlds second highest level of biodiversity. The islands of Indonesia were born only about fifteen million years agosome of the most recently-formed land on the earthforged in molten rock along the line where the crustal plates of the Indian Ocean and western Pacific plates are forced under the Eurasian plate. The countrys fecundity is partly a result of its vast 5,100 km expanse (the worlds largest archipelagic state) stretching across some 18,000 islands; straddling the continents of Asia and Australia. The country is home to more volcanoes than anywhere else on earth (ranking therefore among the worlds most volcanically active regions). Like the area surrounding Merapi, the volcanic rock and ash provide rich minerals in layers of fertile sediment all over Indonesia, boosting the wild diversity of local flora and fauna everywhere. This is not to say that this gloriously rich country does not face environmental problems as a result of rapid modernisation. Indonesia is home to 10% of the worlds remaining tropical rainforest, yet it is being logged both legally and illegally at a blistering pace. Indonesia is also the worst exporter of airborne pollution in the world. Talking to The Straits Times of Singapore in 1998, World Wildlife Fund scientist Timothy Jessup said, The

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ON

destruction of Indonesias ecosystems is a biological tragedy without parallel in human history. In terms of species extinction, nothing on this scale has happened since an asteroid impact wiped out the dinosaurs 60 million years ago. Clearly, the question of ecotourism as a component of sustainable development sits at the centre of those moments when mighty industry (including tourism) as a powerful generator of revenue for a country comes bang up against the needs of local communities and the fragile ecology of the area and beyond. It is, in a sense, the nexus of modern globalisationthe impetus towards modernisation, growth and expansion versus the socioeconomic and cultural needs of traditional indigenous societies and increasingly beleaguered ecosystems. Both Spain and Indonesia have long utilised the cash cow of tourism to balance their fiscal books and to drag their nations up by the bootlaces following periods of dictatorship. It is certainly true that, just like Franco, Indonesias authoritarian ruler General Suharto saw a potential gold mine in tourism and incepted policies to maximise the potential attraction of the country. The rigorous application and adherence to these policies continued even after the dissolution of the dictatorial regimes in both countries. The legacy of dictatorship still hangs over Spain and over Indonesia in terms of unscrupulous business practices and corruption at even the highest levelsnot least in the continuing repercussions of the Jesus Gl y Gl construction debacle in and around Marbella and the continuing saga of Hutomo Tommy Mandala Putra (Suhartos son), whose ability to continue running his business empire while in jail for paying two hit men to shoot dead a judge who was trying him for an illegal land deal, likewise begs some serious questions. Where Spain has already seen its coastlines all but decimat-

ed both on a cultural and aesthetic level by the ravages of unchecked tourist development, Indonesia is at a point in its history where it could easily slip down this route or perhaps, with a little help from its many and growing ASEAN (Association of South East Asia Nations) friends and the rest of the globe, become the world centre of so-called ecotourism. The scale of the respective tourist industries in the two countries bears some scrutiny. In 2004, Spain played host to the second highest tally of foreign visitors in the world (52 million), just behind France, while Indonesia welcomed just 5 million (Bali accounting for 1.5 million of them). Revenues from tourism were just behind those from oil and gas reserves in terms of Indonesias foreign exchanges in 2004 and represented a mere 5 per cent of GDP. Spain maintains tourism as the contributor of 12 per cent of the countrys GDP. In some parts of the world, ecotourism alone can form a significant part of a particular countrys GDP; Antarctica, Ecuador and Kenya for instance. For Indonesia, the promise of it is just part of hope of greater prosperity through tourism as a whole.

C/O LOSARI COFEE PLANTATION, MINISTRY OF CULTURE AND TOURISM, REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA, WAKA RESORTS

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Wayan Duarta of Waka di Ume resort, Ubud, Bali

Wayan Duarta of the Waka di Ume Resort & Spa near

Ubud, a small rice farming community in the hills of central Bali suggests that tourism can be sustainable if it is community based. He despairs at what has happened to the highly (many say over-) developed Balinese resort of Kuta in the same way some Spanish people talk of the transformation of small coastal fishing villages on the Costa Blanca and Costa del Sol into mass tourism behemoths from the 1960s on:Kuta should have been a small resort but the central government permitted it to grow and grow. The local Balinese government couldnt control the building, it was all centralised. Of course, farmers are prepared to sell their land to make a lot of money Attending a press conference at the second annual Ecotourbiz conference held near the countrys charming second city of Jogjakarta, Java from November 11 to 14 last year, it was apparent to TBS from the lack of clarity in official answers that despite much verbal support given by the central government to the idea of ecotouristic initiatives, there appears to be little investment, little financial incentive and scant support and control in the form of knowledge and expertise for it from Jakarta. In order to issue a building license, the government requires that a Balinese development employ 80 per cent local people. Australian national Bill Quinlan, business development consultant for the Balinese company Waka Experience, alleges that there have been significant breaches of this in the Seminyak area of Bali and elsewhere, mainly by western entrepreneurs. Anita Verhoeven, a western entreprenuer of Lombok ecotourism business Sunda Trails says, I didnt got any help from the Indonesian government. I only got oppostion from them because for every signature you need, you have to pay money under the table. Its better not to deal with them! You never know if youre paying the right amount of money because everything is based on corruption. Surrounded on all sides by rice fields, the resort where Wayan Duarta is manager, Waka di Ume farms a certain area and divides 50 per cent of the rice between its restaurant and the local people. Local farmers inform the staff of the development on water quality and activity at night if any. Wayan Duartas colleagues echo his sentiments on the veritable deluge of concrete poured at Kuta; calling to mind the widespread and familiar lamentation at the rise of the costa(s) del concrete here in Spain. Lest we forget, now one third of the Mediterranean coast of Spain is buried under the stuff. Essentially, Kuta is to Bali and Indonesia as Benidorm is to the Costa Blanca and Spainsomething of a carbuncle on the face of the area and the country compared to other less developed spots but also something of a necessary evil as far as essential revenue goes. An ominous symbol of the possibilities of mass tourism, or perhaps a

celebratory shrine to it depending on where you stand, it is surely no accident that Europes tallest hotel on the Costa Blanca chose to name itself after that other world mecca of holiday worship featured here: Benidorms Gran Hotel Bali is Spains tallest building. Benidorm and Bali have a similar number of available tourist beds (31,000 for Bali, 38,000 in Benidorm) but the style of accommodation is altogether different in Bali. The dreaded high rise is, as yet, thankfully eschewed. Other than several Tri Hita Karana (broadly harmony) awards presented to Waka Resortsconferring little more than marketing kudosthe only support forthcoming from Jakarta was expert assistance in obtaining clear drinking water at Waka di Ume. There was no grant or subsidy programme available from the central government. Looking at Spain by way of comparison, for this year, Director General de Desarollo Rural, Francisco Amarillo announced a royal decree to regulate and improve the practices, activities and profits of the large and growing number of ecotourism (and turismo rural) private sector businesses in Spain, committing to holding round table discussions every 7/8 months to work on a legal text to regulate the industry. Spains 21st annual Feria Nacional de Desarrollo y el Turismo Rural was held this October in Madrid and the Comunidad de Madrid recently gave out its first ecotourism awards for the contribution to and development of sustainable tourism. First prize of 9,000 euros in the Premios Fida (Fundacin Para La Investigacin y el Desarrollo Ambiental) was won by Navacerrada for its destino ecoturstico venture. Issued by the Balinese Government, the Tri Hita Karana awards are assessed in three criteria (people & god, people & environment and people & people) by an independent organisation. These criteria give some idea of where tradition and religion mix in Balis unique and idiosyncratic cultureexpressing the harmonic relationship between population and surroundings. Balinese philosophy takes in the tenets of its own strand of Hinduism, Animism (belief in the essential life force inherent in living things) and a dose of mystical superstition. It is important to understand something of this relationship in order to appreciate the challenges posed and the opportunities available in terms of Balinese ecotourism. It is useful to note that development of ecotourism is not only an ecological challenge but also a cultural and social challenge. Former Board member of Nature Conservation Indonesia, Alistair G. Speirs began his discussion at the Ecotourbiz conference with the joke with which we will end ours: A man goes into a travel agency. Please recommend me a very quiet and peaceful place for my holiday, he says. Why dont you go to Ibiza!? says the travel agent, We send thousands of people there every year for peaceful holidays TBS examination of ecotourism destinations and initiatives in Spain included Novembers TBS 162 article on Greenheart Ibiza and also Valencia's Albufera (TBS 153). See our website www. tbs.com.es

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TBS Recommends
Jakarta___________________________________________
Seeing the fossilised remains of Java Man at the capitals National Museum Indonesia, proving that humans have occupied Indonesia for at least a million years and that the archipelago offered the only route in homo erectus migration to New Guinea and Australia, 40,000 years ago.

Bali______________________________________________
There are more than 10,000 temples on Bali alone and a trip to the magnificent location of Tanah Lot (the location of the weddings of Rupert Murdoch and Mick Jagger), is a fine introduction to Balis melting pot of tradition, custom and religion. Hinduism (the faith of 93 per cent of Balinese peoplemaking it the biggest Hindu area outside of India), disallows all killing. Find yourself in Tanah Lot on a temple festival day however (once every 210 days according to the baffling Balinese calendar of 7 x 30 day units) and you will see men of all ages and castes furiously betting on vicious cock fights in the shadow of this magnificent cliff-side temple.

Museum Nasional Jl. Medan Merdeka Barat 12, Jakarta Pusat, tel: +62 021 381 2346 Email: museumnasional@indo.com, www.museumnasional.org

Jogjakarta________________________________________
An incredibly hair-raising Becak bicycle taxi ride down the centre of the road through the thronging streets of Javas second city in a metal bucket, centimetres off the asphalt.

The justification for this constitutionally illegal activity is the fact that the spilling of one drop of blood is counted as a sacrifice for the purification of the earth in Balinese tradition.

Central Java______________________________________
Taking the steam train from Ambarawa to spend a day in the tropical surroundings of the Losari Cofee Plantation in Bedono, an ecotourism development that explains and offers experience of sustainable coffee production from berries to a cup of the hot beverage straight from the source.

Fresh Fish________________________________________
Eating ultra-fresh chargrilled fish at the wonderfully decorated, airy and bustling Ulam Restaurant in Nusa Dua, southern Bali

Ulam Jalan Pantai Mengiat No. 14, Nusa Dua, Bali, tel: +62 361 773 776 Email: ulam@ Losari Coffee Plantation Resort Bedono, Java tel: +62 298 596 333 Email: info@ losaricoffeeplantation.com Website: www.losaricoffeeplantation.com telekom.net

Indonesian Food Borobudur Temple________________________________

Built in the eight/ninth century AD, this wonder of the world is in the shape of a colossal tantric mandala as viewed from the air. Take a spiritually purifying walk clockwise from the east around its steep stairways and stepped tiers in the footsteps of the ancients; surrounded as all those through the ages have been by myriad elegantly-carved friezes, stupas and countless statues of Buddha. Many devoutly religious Balinese Hindus reckon God must have left Borobudur because no Buddhists now live in the area and because anyone of any religion can enter (there is no door) but we defy you to try and not feel spiritual surrounded on all sides by hazy tropical tree lines, verdant rice paddies and the hills to the south shaped themselves like a reclining Buddha. Transcendental isnt the word. Gudeg Lesehan an incredibly odd but seriously delicious preparation of the young nangka (or jackfruit). An acquired but sumptuous taste of a vegetable which comes closest to the texture and umami of meat out-ofsight of Linda McCartney (R.I.P).

The young nangka or jackfruit

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TBS Recommends The Places to Stay

Jakarta__________________________________________
Hotel Borobudur Executive luxury with a fully-equipped business centre and incredibly reasonable cleaning services. Rooms from $100 per night.

to $472 for a family suite housed in an enormous private lumbung a two-floor building designed for drying rice and housing enough beds and space for a large family.

Waka Namya Resort & Spa, Jl.Raya Penestanan, Ubud, tel: +62 361 975 719 Email: reservation@wakanamya.com Webite: www.wakanamya.com

Hotel Borobudur, Jalan Lapangan Banteng Selatan, Jakarta tel: +62 213 805 555 Website: www.hotelborobudur.com

Jogjakarta_______________________________________
Hotel Mercure Easily the most salubrious and opulent surroundings TBS has ever found itself in, this place would make the Trumps feel underdressed in tuxedos and furs. If you fancy pretending to be James Bond for a spell, check into the Mercure. Just make sure you practice the hat trick before you make a fool of yourself in front of Miss (or Mr.) Moneypenny. From 500,000 rupiah ranging up to 1,000,000 a night (thats $50 to $100, people. What are you waiting for?)
Waka Maya, Jalan tanjung pinggir pantai, Sanur, tel: +62 036 128 912 Email: info@wakamayanur.com Website: www.wakamayasanur.com

Waka di Ume, Jl. Suweta, Desa Sambahan, Ubud, tel: +62 361 973 178 Email: reservations@wakaexperience.com Website: www.wakadiumeubud.com

Benoa Beach, Bali_________________________________

C/O OF ACCOR HOTELS

Hotel Mercure, Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 9, Jogjakarta, tel: +62 274 566 617 Email: info@mercureyogya.co Website: www.accorhotels.com

Bali_____________________________________________
Waka Resort All the Waka properties are nigh-on 100% Balinese from the ownership down. Defined as being anti-hotel, the Waka Nusa resort on Lembongan island for example contains no television, intercom or telephone in the rooms. This is carried across the other 5 resorts with varying degrees of divine (and optional) removal from the outside world. None of the resorts contain any plastic beyond essential switches, wires and air conditioning units and the construction of Waka Shorea in the West Bali National Park was built without the use of any nails. This really is ecotourism with a rather large capital E. Waka Namya Resort & Spa (namya respect to God) A lanai like the one TBS stayed in offered a shared private infinity pool, an outdoor shower and a sunken bath at $152 per night. TBS highly recommends a traditional, hour-long Balinese massage at Namya. The nirvanic equivalent of a Bruce Lee death punch, the impact of a traditional Balinese massage shouldnt hit you until a day later and when it does, it kills you very softly and very, very sweetly. Namya is recognised as one of the top spas in Asia by 'The Ultimate Spa Guide 2006.' Prices start at $40 for the spa treatments and range from a paraffin mask up to a seriously decadent two day honeymoon pamper-fest including milk bath, sutra massage, facial and aromatherapy galore. Waka Maya Named after the ancient race who inspired its construction but also after a German family, Meyer who have supported the resort over the years Maya follows the Waka method of keeping the size of the complex down to 16/17 dwellings for a uniquely quiet and intimate experience. Prices follow those of Waka Namya. Waka di Ume (di Ume rice field) Lanai from $157 per night for a standard double ranging all the way up 32 | www.tbs.com.es

Novotel Benoa Vast double rooms with a garden view from $130 a night. a stones throw from the tranquil Tanjung Benoa beach. About as private a hotel as one can imagine, two beautiful and secluded hot outdoor swimming pools are available for the use of round the clock and each room is designed and positioned for maximum privacy.

Novotel Benoa Bali, Jl Pratama Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua, Bali, tel: +62 361 772 239 Email: reservation@novotelbali.com Website: www.accorhotels.com

Kuta, Bali________________________________________
Private double bungalows at $35 per night, 5 minutes walk to the beach through the bottom of the verdant grounds and the freshest fruit breakfast TBS had in the whole of Bali.

Puri Tantra Beach Bungalows Padma Utara St. 50 X, Legian, Kuta, tel: +62 361 753 195 Email: purtantra@telkom.net