Echo Tex Internship Report

Industrial Training
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Abstract
The Education of Textile Engineering is based on both the knowledge of practical and theoretical knowledge of industrial processing of cloths for the comfort of Human wear ability so the a textile Engineer must know all the process happening in a textile industry. For this reason we the students of southeast University were given a chance to visit echo scouring Ltd. Textile Industry and properly gathering the practical knowledge about the processes of echo scouring. The echo scouring has provided with there humble acceptance for helping us to know the process. We have tried our best to discuss the processes of the Industries, but some lack of information may be presents in the industrial attachment so we hope that we may be forgiven.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
All the praises gows to the all mighty allah for giving us the avility to complete our Internship and able to gather knowledge during Internship Project paper is an academic function of the Southeast University. We are highly delighted to express our regards & gratitude to honorable Professor supervising teacher Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan for providing us the chance to complete our internship and completion our project work in Squre knit fabrics limited We take this opportunity to record my deep sense of gratitude and appreciation to our Project Advisor Mr. Fazley Elahi (Asst. proff.) Department of Textile engineering, Southeast University for his constant encouragement and inspiring guidance with his Wisdom.We also take the opportunity to express our sincerest gratitude to the management, administration & personnel of Squre knit fabrics limited for their kind assistance.Cordial thanks goes to Salim Akther Khan General Manager & Md. Siddiqur Rahman Dyeing Manager of dye house of echo scouring limited for their excellent co-operation during the period of our training. We would also like to thank all the members of echo tex limired for providing us with all their help. Thank You.
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Contents
Chapter
1. Introduction 1. Introduction
1.1. Organogram of ECHOTEX 1.2. Layout of ECHOTEX
Contents
Page No
1 2 3 4 4 4 5 5 5 08 22 23 - 43 44 59
2. Yarns Used In ECHOTEX

2. Yarns 2.1. Yarn Suppliers of ECHOTEX 2.2. Counts of Yarns Used 2.3. Yarn Lot Specification Card 2.4. Types of yarns used in ECHOTEX 2.5. Characteristics of various types of yarns
3. Knitting Section 4. Dyeing Section 5. Finishing Section
6. Dyeing & Finishing Lab
60 87
7. Batching Section
7. Batching 7.1. Definition 7.2. Calculation of Batching 7.3. Batch card 7.4. Machines of batching section 7.5. Process of batching 7.6. Advantages of Batching 7.7. Disadvantages of Batching 7.8. Buyers 7.9. Process Flow of the Batching Section
88 93
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8. Quality Assurance Department
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94 106
9. ETP Plant
9. Effluent Treatment Plant 9.1. Pollutants present in Textile Industry 9.2. Flow Description 9.3. Process Details 9.3.1. Screen Chamber 9.3.2. Equalization or Homogenous System 9.3.3. Ozonation System 9.3.4. Ozone Generator 9.3.5. Flocculation System 9.3.6. Inclined Plate Clarifier (IPC)/ Clarifying System 9.3.7. Neutralization System: 9.3.8. Sequencing Batch Reactor (SBR)/ Biological System 9.3.9. Intermediate Tank 9.3.10. Filter Press & Sludge Disposal 9.4. Effluent & Discharge Water Quality In ECHOTEX 9.5. Flow Chart of the ETP plant
107 114
10. Water Treatment Plant

10. Water Treatment Plant 9.1. Flow Process of WTP Plant
115 116
11. Conclusion
117
Industrial Training
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Southeast University
School of Science and Engineering Department of Textile Engineering
Industrial Attachment work
Submitted by:
KHANDAKER SAKIB FARHAD ANIRBAN DEB MD. MOFIDUR RAHMAN MIRAN : 2006200400023 : 2006200400038 : 2006200400030
Industrial Training
2. Introduction:
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is a relatively new textile industry which has shown outstanding achievements in the few years of establishments. The ECHOTEX was first established as a garments industry with only few lands in 2003, but within seven years the industry has reached its way to process from yarn to finished garments. The ECHOTEX Dye house is a new dyeing mill compared to other Knit Composite mills, but within only one and half years of establishment the dye house has reached to a potential to producing 10-15 tons of fabric per day.
ECHOTEX
The ECHOTEX textile mill is mainly divided to 6 buildings or processing houses where starting from knitting of yarns to printing of garments product are done. The Building-1 in the textile mill is the garments industry, Building two is the Administration building, Building-3 is the dye house, Building-4 is the printing section of garments, Building-5 is the utility section and finally building-6 is the ETP plant. The ETP plant of the textile industry is the best ETP plant in the country which continuously runs for 24hours a day and 365 days of the year. The ECHOTEX Environmental Treatment Plant has won the 1st prize for being the best Environment Treatment Plant in the year of 2009. The main achievement of this ETP plant is that it is continuously processing the water at a very low price which is Tk.-13-14 for processing 1m3 of water where all the other textile industries are using Tk-20-22 for processing 1m3 of fabric. The ECHOTEX textile mill has a very strong administration system which looks over entire mill regularity and irregularities and continuously makes sure processes in the industry is properly done and no disturbance is occurred in the industry and also ensures that the industrial labor law is maintained in every places of the textile industry from timing schedule maintaining of 8 hours of work per day and 1 hour of break tome to arrangement of music, lunch, supper and tea breaks during work for all the employees of the textile industry. For the relaxation of the workers there is facility of music in the entire mill so that the workers do not feel for continuous working in the textile mill. The total number of workers working in ECHOTEX textile Industry is 4000 in all sectors of the mill. ECHOTEX has a permanent doctor for taking care of the workers in the industry and child and woman care section for taking care of the injured and sick woman worker and also their family members. ECHOTEX textile is equipped with fire extinguishing devices in all the floor of the industry and first aid kits for avoiding any sort of accidents occurring in the textile industry and all the workers are regularly trained to use the fire extinguishing regularly for making them prepared for any sort of problem occurring in the textile industry.
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2.1.
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Organogram of ECHOTEX:
Chairman Managing Director Administration Director

Head of HR& admin
Executive Director General Manager Asst. General Manager
Marketing Director
rector
Admin Manager
Executive
Quality Manager
Lab Manager
Dyeing Manager
Knitting Manager
Finishing Manager
Printing Manager
Junior HR Executive
Senior Quality Control Inspector
Senior Lab Technician
Executive
Asst. Production officer
Executive
Designer
Compliance officer
Quality Control Inspector
Lab Technician
Junior Production officer
Asst. Designer
Well fair Officer
Lab Asst. Quality Control Trainee
Operator
Operator Operator Helper Operator Helper
Helper
Helper
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2.2.
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Layout of ECHOTEX:
Building2 Admin Office Building-1 Garments Building-4 Printing
Washin g Plant
Building-3 Dye House Entry gate2 Building-5 Generator & WTP Plant Building-6 ETP Plant
Checking point
Entry gate1 Chandra- Gazipur Highway
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Yarns: Yarns are the most important part of a Textile industry. Yarn is a generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric. Yarn occurs in the following forms: Number of fibers twisted together. Number of filaments lay together without twist. Number of filaments lay together with a degree of twist. Single filament with or without twist. A narrow strip of material.
Yarn Suppliers of ECHOTEX: The ECHOTEX textile mill is involved with some of their trustworthy suppliers for whom the textile mill is continuously receiving all the types and necessary yarns needed for knitting the fabrics. The regular list of the suppliers of ECHOTEX is shown below:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. V.man. Indroma. Aarti. Square. MSA. Thermax. CTN. Tamisna. Yagum. Nahar. GTN. Winsome. S/Line.
Counts of Yarns Used: Count is an important parameter for the manufacture and processing of fabrics as it indicates the fineness of the yarn. Finer or more count yarns produce finer fabrics and coarser or less count yarns produce coarser fabrics. Normally the counts of yarns used in the ECHOTEX Knitting section are given below: Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne PC: 20/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne CVC: 26/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne Mlange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne Spandex: 40D, 70D Polyester: 75D, 150D Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc
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Yarn Lot Specification Card: The yarn lot specification card contains the following information: Yarn Count- 30/CARD Supply- T-MAX Lot-04/10 Quantity-4650.0kg Yarn Count- 34/C.Slub Supply- T-MAX Lot-61/10 Quantity-1200.0kg
Types of yarns used in ECHOTEX: There are various types of yarns used in ECHOTEX limited knitting section which is discussed below: Carded Cotton Yarn. Combed Cotton Yarn. Slub Cotton Yarn. 50% Cotton & 50% Modal Yarn. Grey Mlange. Lycra/Elastane/Spandex Yarn. CVC (60% Cotton & 40% Polyester) Yarn. Polyester Yarn. Cotton Mlange. Various Cotton Dyed Yarn. PC (60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) Yarn. Viscose Yarn. Carded Slub Yarn. Characteristics of various types of yarns: There are various types of yarns which are formed of various types of fibers and demonstrate various properties. The varieties of yarns used in ECHOTEX are discussed below: I. Carded Yarn: A fibrous cotton yarn or cotton blend yarn made of short staple cotton fiber from which most of the impurities have been removed by various processes of carding and drawing. II. Combed Yarn: A fibrous cotton yarn which is combed and the fibers are long with small diameter is called Combed Yarn.
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III. Slub Cotton Yarn: The cotton yarn which contains irregularity of thick and thin places in the yarn in continuous bases is termed as Slub Cotton Yarn.
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IV. 50% Cotton & 50% Modal Yarn: The yarn which is a mixture of 50% cotton fiber and 50% Modal fiber is termed as 50%Cotton& 50%Modal Yarn. Modal is mainly an artificial fiber which has a similar appearance to silk.
V. Grey Mlange: The yarn which is a mixture of maximum 15% viscose fiber and 85% cotton fiber is known as Grey Mlange yarn. VI. Lycra/ Elastane/ Spandex yarn: A yarn which shows elastic properties and which is formed of polyurethane/polyamide fibers is known as Elastane/Lycra/Spandex yarn. VII. CVC yarn: CVC yarn is a yarn which means Chief Value Cotton and consists of 55%/60%/65% of cotton fiber and 45%/ 40%/ 35% of polyester fiber. VIII. Polyester Yarn: Such type of yarn which is made from polymers produced from melt spinning of ethylene glycol and teripthalic acid. IX. Cotton Mlange: A yarn which consists of 15% black dyed yarn and 85% of grey cotton yarn and spanned to form a yarn is called Cotton mlange. X. Viscose Yarn: Such type of yarn which is formed of spinning of viscose rayon fiber is called Viscose Yarn. XI. PC (60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) Yarn: Such type of yarn which is formed by blending 60% polyester fiber and 40% cotton fiber through various processes. It is also known as Anthra Mlange.
Industrial Training 3. Layout of Knitting Section: Layout of knitting Floor
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Fabric storage rack Yarn storage rack Office room Fabric reversing machine Roll weighing machine Nozzles of dyeing machine Fabric inspection machine Elevator Single jersey circular knitting machine Double jersey circular knitting machine Yarn Cone making machine
Industrial Training 3.1. Knitting:
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Knitting is the process of producing a fabric by forming a series of loops connecting from a series of yarn. In this method, fabrics are produced by intermeshing of loops. There are two types of knitting methods. Such are: Weft Knitting: In the weft knitting technique a yarn presented horizontally is linked into a row of loops. To achieve this, needle can be moved simultaneously and the loops are formed one after another or at the same time, or the needles are moved successively to form the loop. In ECHOTEX the weft knitting method is used for knitting fabrics. Warp Knitting: Warp knitting is a method of fabric forming in which the loops are made in a vertical way along the length of the fabric from each warp yarns and intermeshing of loops takes place in a flat form of lengthwise basis.
3.2. Knitting machines used in ECHOTEX knitting section:

Despite the fact that ECHOTEX is a new company its knitting sections fabric producing quality has always maintained its fine standards. There are 23 circular knitting machines among which nine machines are double jersey circular knitting machine and the rest fourteen machines are single jersey circular knitting machines. The main difference between single jersey circular knitting machine and double jersey circular knitting machine is that the single jersey machine contains only a cylinder which contains only a cylinder and in the cylinder there is a set of needles, sinkers attached to the cylinder for knitting the fabrics. On the other hand, the double jersey circular knitting machine contains both cylinder and dial for the purpose of constructing the fabric. There are two sets of needles attached to dial and cylinder for knitting the fabrics.
3.2.1. The specifications of knitting machines used in ECHOTEX Limited: 1) Double Jersey circular knitting machine:
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Machine No. Manufacturer Cylinder Diameter 44 inch Feeders Gauge Machine Model PLXR2B/C Needles
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Safety RPM 20 Manufactu ring Year 2009
PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED
88F
18G
2484
42 inch
84F
18G
PLXR2B/C
2376
21
2009
38 inch
76F
18G
PLXRA/CE
2160
23
2005
38 inch
76F
18G
PLXRA/CE
2160
23
2005
36 inch
72F
18G
PLXRA/CE
1992
25
2005
36 inch
72F
18G
PLXR2B/C
1920
26
2009
32 inch
64F
18G
PLXR2B/C
1800
2009
32 inch
64F
18G
PLXR2B/C
1800
2009
32 inch
64F
18G
PLXR2B/C
1800
2009
2) Single Jersey circular knitting machine:
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Machine No. Manufacturer Cylinder Diameter 30 inch Feeders Gauge Machine Model PL-XF3BLP/CE Needles
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Safety RPM 25 Manufactu ring Year 2005
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED PAILUNG MACHINARY MILL COMPANY, LIMITED
90F
20G
1872
40 inch
120F
24G
PLXS3B/C
3000
26
2009
38 inch
114F
24G
PLXS3B/C
2856
27
2009
38 inch
114F
24G
PLXS3B/C
2856
27
2009
38 inch
114F
24G
PLXS3B/C
2856
27
2009
36 inch
108F
24G
PLXS3B/C
2850
29
2009
36 inch
108F
24G
PLXS3B/A/C E
2712
25
2005
34 inch
102F
24G
PLXS3B/A/C E
2544
26
2005
32 inch
96F
24G
PLXS3B/C
2400
25
2009
32 inch
96F
24G
PL-KS3BW/A/CE
2400
25
2009
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Machine No. Manufacturer Cylinder Diameter 32 inch Feeders Gauge Machine Model UBX 3SK Needles
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Maxim um RPM 100 Manufactu ring Year 2010
20
UNITEX TEXMAC PTE. LIMITED
96F
24G
2400
21
40 inch
120F
24G
UBX 3SK
3000
100
2010
22
40 inch
120F
24G
UBX 3SK
3000
100
2010
23
34 inch
102F
24G
UBX 3SK
2544
100
2010
3.3. Some Parameters of Knitted fabric:

The quality of a knitted fabric depends on some important parameters of the fabric which is needed to be maintained during knitting a fabric. There are different types of related parameters which are mentioned below: 1) Wales per inch 2) Courses per inch 3) Stitch length 4) Yarn count 5) Yarn twist 6) Twist liveliness 7) Yarn type 8) Gram per square meter (GSM) 9) Spirality 10) Shrinkage 11) Area density 12) Fabric thickness
1. Wales per inch: Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties.
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2. Courses per inch: Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM. 3. Stitch length: Stitch length is theoretically is a single length of yarn which include one needle loop and half the length of Yarn (half of a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exists in coarse in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight. 4. Yarn count: Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn. It expresses the relation between the weight and length of a particular unit of yarn. Yarn count is calculated in two systems: a. Direct system b. Indirect system
5. Direct system:
In this system the count of yarn express the wt per units length of yarn. In this system, higher the count, coarser the yarn & lower the count , finer the yarn. This system is used for thrown Polyester & other Synthetic yarn. Count = (W X l)/(w X L) Here, W = the weight of sample. L= the length of sample. w = the unit weight in system. l= the unit length in system. System Unit mass Unit length Uses Tex Gram 1000m Polyester Denier Gram 9000m Polyester
6. Indirect system:
In this system the count of yarn express the length per unit wt. In this system higher the yarn count, finer the yarn & Lower the count coarser the yarn. This system is generally used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc and the yarn count calculation formula is,
Count: (w X L)/ (W X l)
Here, W = the weight of sample. L= the length of sample. w = the unit weight in system.
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l= the unit length in system System English (Ne) Metric (Nm) Worsted (Ws) Woolen (Nw) Pounds/spindle Unit Mass 840yds 1 km 560yds 256yds Pounds Unit Length 1 lb 1 kg 1 lb 1 lb 14400yds Uses Cotton yarn Cotton yarn Worsted yarn Woolen yarn Jute
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7. Yarn twist: Twist is the measures of the spiral turns given to a yarn in order to hold the constituent fibres or threads together. Amount of twist ie: TPI greatly influenced the fabric Spirality. 8. Twist liveliness: The tendency of a yarn is to twist or untwist spontaneously. The direction of twist liveliness or torque S or Z twist change that takes place spontaneously when an end of yarn or hanging loop is allowed to rotate freely. Higher amount of twist leads high liveliness and creates fabric spirality. 9. Type of yarn: Types of yarn are very much responsible for fabric GSM, shrinkage and Spirality. Ring yarn and rotor, 100% cotton yarn, blended yarn, synthetic yarn give different property on gray and finished fabric. 10. GSM: GSM means the weight in gram of one square meter fabric. 11. Shrinkage: A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected to specified condition is known shrinkage. 12. Spirality: If the wales of the knitted fabric are not perpendicular to the course and skew to the right or left spirality occurs in the fabric. This creates serious problem, especially in the apparel industry. 13. Fabric area density: Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula Area density = S X L X T/100 g/m2 =Ks XT/ (l X 100) g/m2 Here, T= Tex, S= stitch density & L= Stitch length Area density also be expressed in linear meter =n X l x cpc X T/ 10000 = n X Kc X T/ 10000 here, n = no. of needle
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T = Tex Cpc =courses per cm It depends on dry, wet, finished relaxed state
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14. Fabric width: Fabric width can be calculated by the following formula Fabric width= course length, L (cm)/Kw = 3.414 X D X G X Stitch length/Kw, here, D= Machine Dia G= Gauge And Kw=38 (Dry Relaxed State) =41 (Wet Relaxed State) = 42.2 (Finished Relaxed State) 15. Fabric thickness: Fabric thickness= 4D here, D = Yarn Dia (For Relaxed State) 16. Tightness factor: Tightness factor= Tex/Stitch length
Here, stitch length in mm
17. Relation between yarn tex and machine gauge: Optimum Tex=constant/G2 For single jersey, optimum Tex= 1650/ G2 For double jersey, optimum Tex = 1400/ G2
3.4. Important Knit Fabric Properties:

Strength:
Strength is the resistance of the fabric towards breakage. Strength of the fabric depends on course per inch, wales per inch, area density, types & kinds of yarn used Longevity: Longevity is the tendency of the fabric to increase lengthwise. Longevity of the fabric depends on the types of fibre used to produce the fabric. Longevity property of the fabrics can be expressed as below: Cotton< Polyester< Elastane Toughness: Toughness is the compactness of the yarns in the fabric which is also called the Cover factor. The Toughness of the fabric depends on the fabric structure, area density of fabric.
Weight: Weight is the value of the fabric capacity or total weight value of the fibers inside the fabric. Weight of the fabric mainly depends on the yarn count, GSM of fabric.
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Thickness: Thickness is the depth wise length of the fabric. Thickness of the fabric depends on types of yarn, yarn count, GSM & the types of fabric. Pliability: Pliability is the hand feel of the fabric. Pliability of the fabric depends on the softness of fabric Absorbency: Absorbency is the property of the fabric which enables the penetration of the dye liquor inside the fabric. Through good scouring process good absorbency of the fabric can be achieved. If the moisture regain value and openness of knitted fabric is more, absorbency will be more. Air Permeability: Air permeability is the property of the fabric which enables air to pass through the fabric. Air permeability of knitted fabrics depends on the knit structure of the fabric. Air permeability will be more if fine yarn is used. Single jersey fabric has better air permeability than double jersey fabric. Abrasion Resistance: Abrasion resistance is the proper of the knitted fabric to resist wear and tear of the fabric. Abrasion resistance depends on the toughness, stitch density, high twist factor and nature of the surface Stiffness or Softness: Stiffness or Softness is the hand feel of the fabric. Stiffness or Softness of the fabric depends on the amount of twist in yarn and compactness of the yarns in the fabric.
3.5. Fabric Quality:

The quality fabrics which are produced in the knitting section of ECHOTEX are given below: Grey Fabrics. Lycra Cotton Fabrics. Yarn Dyed Fabrics. Striped Fabrics. 100% Cotton Fabrics. CVC Fabrics. PC Fabrics. 50% Cotton & 50% Modal Fabrics. Grey Mlange Fabrics. Cotton Mlange Fabrics.
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100% Viscose Fabrics. 100% Slub Cotton Fabrics. Lycra Cotton Fabrics. Viscose Cotton Fabrics.
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3.6. Fabric Structures:

There are different kinds of fabric designs and structures produced in ECHOTEX knitting section which are as follows:
21 Rib. 11 Rib. 4 Rib. 11 V. Rib. 21 Lycra Rib. Single jersey Slub. Single jersey Grey Melance. Single jersey Stripe. Single jersey. Single jersey Slub Stripe. Loop Back or Fleece. Loop Back Stripe. Lycra Lacost Stripe. Polo P.K. Fabric.
3.6.1. Knitted fabric structures and cam arrangements:

Single Jersey:
Loop
Cam
Cam arrangement Needle Set out KKKK 1 KKKK 2 KKKK 3 KKKK 4
11 Rib:
Loop
Cam
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Terri fleece:
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Loop
Cam
21 Rib:
Loop
Cam
Single pique:
Loop
Cam
Cam arrangement KKTT T TK K KKTT TTKK
Needle Set out 1 2 3 2
Single lacoste:
Loop
Cam
Cam arrangement Needle Set out KKTK 1 TKKK 2 KKTK 3 TKKK 2
Industrial Training 3.7. Knitting action of Single Jersey Machine:
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The knitting action consists of two parts of knitting action, one where the yarn is knitted to form loops by the needles when the yarn is fed from the wheel to the feeder and finally from the feeder to the needle and on the other hand the sinker passes the formed loops in the needles to the downwards of the machine. The continuous passage of loops from every sinker causes the fabric to be formed and finally drawn by the take down rollers and stored. The process which undergoes during knitting is given below: The Rest Position: In the rest position the formed old loop which is formed by the previous feeder remains in the latch needle which is prevented from rising and the needle hook come to the verge or level of the cylinder. The sinker moves forward to hold down the formed loop and pass it downwards. Latch Opening: In latch opening the needle butt passes up the incline of the clearing cam, the old loop, which is held down by the sinker, slides inside the hook and contacts the latch, turning and opening it. Clearing Height: In clearing height the needle reaches the top of the cam, the old loop is cleared from the hook and latch spoon on to the stem. At this point the feeder guide plate acts as a guard to prevent the latch from closing the empty hook. Yarn Feeding and Latch Closing: During yarn feeding and latch closing the needle starts to descend the stitch cam so that its latch is below the verge, with the old loop moving under it. At this point the new yarn is fed through a hole in the feeder guide to the descending needle hook, as there is no danger of the yarn being fed below the latch. The old loop contacts the underside of the latch, causing it to close on to the hook. Knocking Over and Loop Formation: In Knocking Over and Loop Formation the head of the needle descends below the top of the trick, the old loop slides off the needle and the new loop is drawn through it. The continued descent of the needle draws the loop length, which is approximately twice the distance the head of the needle descends, below the surface of the sinker or trick-plate supporting the sinker loop. The distance is determined by the depth setting of the stitch cam, which can be adjusted.
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Figure: Knitting action of Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.
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3.7.1. Function of Sinkers during Knitting: During knitting the single jersey the sinker plays an important role. The various functions of sinker during knitting the fabric are given below: 1) The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when the sinker moves forward and the needle moves upward for clearing. The held loop is held by the throat and hence its movement along the needle is restricted. 2) The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle attains its clearing position. 3) The sinker retracts when the needle comes down after feeding. At this stage, due to sinkers retraction, fabric or held loop is eased out. Also the sinker belly supported the fabric or held loop and hence its movements along the needle is prevented. 4) Sinker remains in backward position and the needle descends to its lowest position drawing the new loop through the old one. 5) Before the needle ascends, the sinker moves forward to push the knitted fabric a little and to hold the old loop away from the head of the needle and to be in a position to control the fabric.
Figure: Loop formation by Sinker during Knitting.
Industrial Training 3.8. Knitting action of Double Jersey Machine:
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The knitting machine consists of cylinder and dial where the yarn is knitted to form loops by the needles of both cylinder and dial when the yarn is fed from the wheel to the feeder and finally from the feeder to the needles then the continuous forward and backward movement of needles according to cam arrangement causes the needles to form loops and thus the fabric. The process which undergoes during knitting is given below: Clearing: In clearing the cylinder and dial needles move out to clear the plain and rib loops formed in the previous cycle. Yarn Feeding: During yarn feeding the needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are covered by the open latches and the new yarn is fed into the open hooks. Knocking Over: During knocking over the needles are withdrawn into their tricks so that the old loops are cast off and the new loops are drawn through them.
Figure: Knitting action of Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.
Industrial Training 3.9. Schematic View of Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine:
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Belt Pulley Yarn Cone Stopper Sensor Device Feeding Wheels Yarn Feeders Latch Needles Cam Box & Cylinder Creel Stand Speed Controller Board
Take Down Rollers
Figure: Specification of Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.
Industrial Training 3.10.
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Schematic View of Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine:
Belt Pulley Yarn Cone Stopper Sensor Device Feeding Wheels Dial Yarn Feeders Dial Needles Cylinder Needles Cam Box & Cylinder Creel Stand Speed Controller Board
Take Down Rollers
Figure: Specification of Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.
Industrial Training 3.11. Functions of various parts of machines:
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There are many parts of the circular knitting machine. The functions of these parts in the process of knitting yarns into fabric are discussed below: Needles: Needles are used for knitting the yarn by making loops of yarn continuously and thus passing it to the sinker to turn the compactly formed loops into fabric.
Figure: A latch needle.
Sinker: The function of sinker is to press the formed loops downwards to produce the fabric and thus making the needles free to form new loops. The following functions are done using sinkers: a) Loop formation. b) Holding down. c) Knocking over.
Figure: Sinker.
Cam: The function of cam is to create various designs on the fabric by placing the needles according to various loop styles during loop formation of the fabric. There are mainly three types of cams. Such are: a) Knit cam. b) Tuck cam. c) Miss cam.
Knit
Tuck
Miss
Figure: Knit, Tuck and Miss cam.
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Cam box: The function of cam box is to hold the various types of cams for the purpose of needle passage through the cam. The cams can also be changed according to the various designs.
Figure: Frontal and back view of a cam box.
Feeder: The feeder is used for passing the yarn of the bobbin from the wheel to the roller at a uniform tension. The fabric fineness depends on the tension of the yarn.
Figure: View of a feeder.
Wheel: The yarn fed for knitting the fabric is attached to the wheel which is passed to the feeder hole by continuous rotation through to the needles for knitting the fabric. The rotating speed is achieved by the rotation of the v-belt attached to the upper part of the wheel. The tension at which the yarn is passed is maintained to maintain the fineness of the fabric.
Figure: View of a wheel.
Industrial Training
SAM
Stopper or Signal light: Stopper is a sensor devise attached in front of the wheel .This sensor device or signal light lights up as soon as a yarn breaks. It helps to track down the broken yarn and fix it.
Stopper Figure: View of a stopper.
Wheel stand: The wheel stand is used for holding the magnet, wheel and stopper of the machine so that these parts of the machine can run proper and smoothly.
Figure: View of a wheel stand.
Cylinder: The cylinder is responsible for the entire knitting process. The cylinder holds the needles, sinker and the cam box. Mainly the sinkers and the needles are attached with the cylinder which rotates with the circular motion of the cylinder. As the needle buts pass through the cams attached to the cam box they create various designed loops to construct a fabric.
Figure: View of a typical S/J cylinder.
Industrial Training
SAM
Belt pulley: The belt pulley holds the v-belt. The pulley is energized by the motor which gives the continuous circular motion to the belt and as the belts rotate the yarn passed from the bobbin to the wheel is passed to the feeder and thus to the needle for loop formation. The wheel also rotates with the belt.
Figure: View of a typical Belt pulley.
Magnet: Magnet is attached to the cylinder stand and the function of magnet is to dirt, dust and mainly the protruding fibers which come out while yarn passage through the feeder, wheel and needle.
Figure: View of a typical Magnet.
Take down roller: The take down roller pulls the knitted fabric downwards and the knitted fabric roll is produced by continuous turning of the roller.
Figure: View of Take down Roller.
Industrial Training 3.12. GSM Calculation of knitting using GSM cutter:
SAM
The process of calculating the GSM of the fabric is given below: First spread the fabric over a table. Then use the GSM cutter to cut a round piece from the fabric. After that find the weight of the circular fabric in the balance machine. The diameter of the circular GSM cutter machine is 100cm2 for which the diameter of the fabric is 100cm2. Then note the achieved result and weight it on the weight balance. Finally calculate the GSM by multiplying the achieved result with 100.
Figure: A typical GSM meter having circular diameter of 100cm2.
3.13.
Typical Knitting Calculations:

The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below:
Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch. Total needles: Machine diameter Gauge3.416. Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter3. Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter2.
Calculation of Single Jersey: Calculation of Double Jersey: Production Calculation per shift: kilograms. Single Jersey Count: Double Jersey Count: . . Req. Count = Any achieved GSM Meters. Systems/inch. Any
Adjusting GSM & Count: Req. GSM achieved Count. Fabric Width: Stitch Density:
Industrial Training 3.14. Relation between Gauge and Yarn Count:

Yarn Count
16 18 20 20 24 24 26 26 26 26 28 28 28 30 30 30 30 34 34
SAM
Machine Gauge
18 20 20 24 22 24 20 22 24 28 22 25 28 22 24 28 34 28 28
3.15.
Fabric GSM 100 120 140 160 180 200 220 240
Relation between GSM and Yarn Count:

Single Jersey 36(Approx) 34(Approx) 30(Approx) 28(Approx) 24(Approx) 22(Approx) 20(Approx) 16(Approx) Polo Pique 48(Approx) 44(Approx) 40(Approx) 38(Approx) 34(Approx) 30(Approx) 28(Approx) 24(Approx) 1 1 Rib 42(Approx) 40(Approx) 38(Approx) 34(Approx) 32(Approx) 30(Approx) 28(Approx) 24(Approx) Lycra 1 1 Rib 48(Approx) 44(Approx) 42(Approx) 40(Approx) 38(Approx) 36(Approx) 32(Approx) 30(Approx) Lycra 2 Rib 46(Approx) 44(Approx) 42(Approx) 40(Approx) 38(Approx) 36(Approx) 32(Approx) 30(Approx)
Industrial Training 3.16. Flow process of knitting section:
SAM
Yarn bobbin from storage space
Yarn selection
Attaching bobbins to bobbin stand
Knitting of yarns in the circular knitting machines
Knitted fabrics rolling in the take down roller
Detaching fabric rolls from the rollers
Inspection of the knitted fabrics
Batching of the knitted fabrics
Storing the knitted fabrics
Industrial Training 4. Dyeing & Finishing Section: Layout of Dyeing & Finishing Section
SAM
Inspection m/c
Open Compacting m/c
Tube Compacting m/c

Stenter machine
Dryer m/c
Slitting machine
Squeezing m/c
Office
Dyeing m/c Maintenance Section Time Section J.P.O. Table
Industrial Training 4.1. The specifications of the jet dyeing machines (bulk) used in ECHOTEX:
Bulk Dyeing Liquor Ratio: 1:6 Bulk Starting Liquor: 1:5.6 Bulk Chemical & Dye Liquor Ratio: 1:6 Bulk Salt & Soda Liquor Ratio: 1:6.5
M/C No. M/C Name Year Built Model No. No. of Nozzles Weight Capacity kg Weight per Nozzle kg Maximum work pressure (MPa) Testing pressure (MPa) Maximum work temperature (0C)
SAM
Length of fabric per nozzle (Meters) 840 mts
M-1
M-2
M-3
M-4
M-5
M-6
M-7
Sclavos S.A. (Athena2) 1500H Sclavos S.A. (Athena2) 1000H Sclavos S.A. (Athena2) 1000H Sclavos S.A. (Athena2) 750H Sclavos S.A. (Athena2) 500H Sclavos S.A. (Athena2) 250H Sclavos S.A. (Athena2) 250H
2008
04-6A2890
1500kg
250kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
2008
04-4A2890
1000kg
250 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
840 mts
2008
04-4A2884
1000kg
250 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
840 mts
2008
04-3A2889
750kg
250 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
840 mts
2008
04-2A2910
500kg
250 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
840 mts
2008
04-1A2909
250kg
250 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
840 mts
2008
04-1A2836
250kg
250 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
840 mts
Industrial Training 4.2. The specifications of the jet dyeing machines (sample) used in ECHOTEX:
Sample Dyeing Liquor Ratio: 1:8 Sample Starting Liquor: 1:7.8 Sample Chemical & Dye Liquor Ratio: 1:8 Sample Salt & Soda Liquor Ratio: 1:8.5
M/C No. M/C Name Year Built Model No. No. of Nozzles Weight Capacity kg Wt. per Nozzle kg Maximum work pressure (MPa) 0.28
SAM
Testing pressure (MPa)
Maximum work temperature (0C) 142oC
B-1
B-2
B-3
B-4
B-5
B-6 B-7
Sclavos S.A. (Athena1800) 50H Sclavos S.A. (Athena1800) 50H Sclavos S.A. (Athena1800) 50H Sclavos S.A. (Athena1800) 50H Sclavos S.A. (Athena1800) 50H Fongs ALL FIT-10 Fongs ALL FIT-10
2008
04-1B-2864
50kg
50 kg
0.40
2008
04-1B-2865
50kg
50 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
2008
04-1B-2951
50kg
50 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
2008
04-1B-2952
50kg
50 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
2008
04-1B-2953
50kg
50 kg
0.28
0.40
142oC
2009 2009
34025682T 34025681T
1 1
10kg 10kg
10kg 10kg
350 Kpa 350 Kpa
520 Kpa 520 Kpa
140 oC 140 oC
Industrial Training
4.4 Dosing-Fixing time of ECHOTEX Dye house: Shade % Dyes 15min 15min 15min 20min 20min 20min Dosing Time Salt 10min 15min 15min DSS DSS DSS Soda 40min 40min 45min 50min 60min 60min Leveling 3min 3min 3min 3min 3min 3min Color 10min 10min 10min 20min 20min 20min Run Time Salt fixing 20min 20min 20min 10min 10min 10min
SAM
0.5% 1% 1.5% 1.5%-3.0% 3.0%-5.0% >5.0%
Soda fixing 30min 30min 40min 30min 30min 40min
4.4.1. Color dissolving process of ECHOTEX Limited:
The color is processed for dissolving before applying to the dyeing machine tanks and while dissolving the ECHOTEX DYEHOUSE follows certain rules which are stated below: a) Every color except the Turquise color is dissolved at 400C-600C temperature. b) Turquise color is dissolved at 700C temperature. c) First color bulk is dissolved using 50%-60% of the total color dissolving water. d) Color is normally dissolved using hot water. e) After color dissolving no extra heat is applied and it should be the same for the color dissolving tank. f) Temperature and water should always be maintained during color dissolving. g) Every color is dissolved in the store of the dye house. h) Before applying the color to the machine tank it is clarified. i) Every color is refined twice. j) No color is applied in solid state in the dyeing floor. k) Color is dissolved one hour before applying to the machine tank. Liquor = Fabrics weight 0.2
Industrial Training
4.4.2. Dyeing process of ECHOTEX:
SAM
a. b. c. d. e. f. g. h. i.
Cotton Bleaching: 950C 30min Enzymatic Treatment: 550C 40min Cotton Dyeing Processes: SS Critical 40-60 Dyeing: Twice salt and soda dosing at 400C and dyeing time 600C 30min. SS Critical 60 Dyeing: Once salt and soda dosing at 600C and having dyeing time of 600C 30min. Turquise 80 Dyeing: Twice salt and soda dosing at 800C and having dyeing time of 800C 30min. Turquise 40-80 Dyeing: Twice salt and soda dosing at 400C and dyeing time 800C 30min Polyester Dyeing: 1300C 30min. Only washing: 900C 10min
4.5. Jet Dyeing Machine: The Jet dyeing machine is the dyeing machine which dyes the fabric by forcibly contacting with the jet flow of the dyestuff solution. By this dyeing machine the tension on the fabric is reduced as much as possible and the dyeing of the fabric is done evenly with fewer amounts of dyestuff and liquor. The dyestuff solution is partially taken into the Dyebath along with the fabric through a venture tube and it circulates with the fabric in the central zone of the Dyebath which causes the dyeing of the fabric. The dyeing machine used in ECHOTEX is economy flow high temperature jet dyeing machine having liquor ratio of 1:6-1:8.
.
4.5.1
Calculations related to Jet dyeing machine: ( ) Grams per linear meter = Meters per Chamber/Reel speed = Meters per Chamber/Reel speed =
( )
M/min
Cycle time = Dye Absorption Time=
Industrial Training
SAM
4..5.2. Parts of Dyeing Machine: The functions of various parts of the dyeing machine are different. The parts of the dyeing machine are briefly discussed below:
Loading & Unloading Reel
Loading Port
Metering Reel
1st & 2nd Nozzles Fabric Guide Tube
Throttle Tube
Viewing Light J-Box Addition Motor Addition Tank Heat Exchanger Main Vessel
Centrifugal pump System Drain Line
Figure: Schematic View of a Economical Flow Pressure Jet Dyeing

Machine.
Loading & Unloading Reel: The fabric is loaded in the dye bath by the rotating motion of the loading and unloading reel. Reel speed is previously set in the computer of the dyeing machine. The Reel speed is expressed as below:
Meters per Chamber/Reel speed =
Metering Reel: Metering Reel is used for measuring the total amount of fabric passed through the nozzle of the Dyeing machine during dyeing. It is also known as the winch of the dyeing machine. Loading Port: The function of loading port is to load the fabric needed to be dyed and it also prevents the hot steam of the bath to come out of the dyeing machine.
Industrial Training
SAM
Addition Motor: The function of addition motor is to dissolve the solid salt, soda and dye particles for creating salt, soda and dye solutions to apply in the dye bath. Chemical solutions confirm uniform dispersion to the chemicals. Addition Tank: Addition Tank is the tank where the dyeing chemicals are dissolved. Nozzles: Nozzles are used for both the passage of the fabric and also dye liquor into the dye bath and it is also used for controlling the speed of the dye liquor. The optimum geometry of the nozzle system in dyeing machines is given below:

Separation= 1, 4.H.
( ) ( )
= 5.
= 2%.
Heat Exchanger: Heat Exchanger is used for heating and cooling the dye bath liquor. It contains both regulating valve for heating and cooling which controls the temperature of the dye bath. Main Vessel:
Main Vessel is where the fabric is dyed and the dye liquor is heated by applying steam flow in the dye bath.
Fabric Guide Tube: Fabric guide tube is a tube which passes the dry fabric from the nozzle to the container storage chamber or J-box of the dyeing machine. It contains plaiter and bypass through which dye is passed into the main vessel. Throttle Tube: Throttle tube passes the hot steam required for dyeing the fabric from the heat exchanger to the main vessel of the dyeing bath. J-Box: J-Box is where the fabric is dyed by continuous rotating motion of the fabric. The J-Box contains a deposition tube line attached to the fabric guide tube which contains plaiter and a bypass device for flowing dye liquor into the J-Box and thus dyeing the fabric.
Centrifugal Pump System: Centrifugal pump is used for passing the liquor from the soft water tank of water treatment plant to the dyeing machine through heat exchanger.
Industrial Training
SAM
Viewing Light: Viewing light is given in the dyeing machine to see how the dyeing of the fabric is advancing in the dyeing machine from outside of the dyeing machine as it is impossible to look into the dyeing machine while dyeing due to high steam temperature. Drain Line: Drain Line is used for extracting the liquor out of the dyeing automatically.
Industrial Training
SAM
4.6. The Functions of Various Chemicals used in The Dye House & Dye House Store Report:
Code
ACR
BIP CTL
Name
Anticreasing agent Biopolishing agent Cotton leveling agent
Function
To remove crease mark from the fabric. Mainly used for Enzymatic treatment by which hairiness of the fabric is removed. This leveling agent is used for reactive dyeing which enables the dyes to color the entire fabric uniformly by controlling the rate of dyeing. Mainly used for disperse dyes by which uniform dispersion of the dyes is possible throughout the fabric. Antistaining agent is used for removing stain marks such as, dirt spot, oil spot etc. from the fabric.
Antifoaming agent is used for removing foam formation from fabric surface.
DIS
Dispersing agent
AST
Antistaining agent
AFM AOX
Antifoaming agent Antioxidants
The Antioxidant is used for preventing deterioration of the fiber within the fabric due to oxidation reaction. Enzymatic peroxide killer is used for destroying the residual enzyme & peroxide contained in the dye bath. Fixing agent is used for fixing the dye onto the fabric surface. Peroxide killer is used to remove the residual peroxide contained in the dye bath which can lead to decomposition the fiber from the fabric. Peroxide stabilizer is used for slowing down the decomposition of Hydrogen Peroxide because if the
decomposition of H2O2 is more than the production of HO2- then it can lead to cellulose breakage.
EPK
Enzymatic peroxide killer Fixing agent Peroxide killer
FIX PEK
PST
Peroxide stabilizer
RED
Reducing agent
The function of reducing agent is to lose electron during chemical reaction. It provides an electron layer on the fabric surface. The function of sequestering agent is to reduce water hardness such as metal, impurities from the fabric surface.
SEQ
Sequestering agent
Industrial Training Code

NUT SOF WDT
SAM Name Function

Various acids are used for neutralizing the Dyebath and minimizing the pH of the Dyebath. The function of softeners is to soft the hand feel of the fabric and increase the luster of the fabric. The function of wetting agent is to reduce the surface tension between of the liquor in the dye bath and wetting the fabric and the detergency part of the chemical reduces the dirt, dust and other impurities present in the fabric. The function of soaping agent is washing the fabric and removing the unfixed dye from the fabric surface. Salt is used for penetrating dye liquor inside the fabric surface.
Hydrogen Peroxide is used for bleaching which destroys the natural color of the fiber and thus whitens the fabric.
Neutralizing agent (Acid) Softeners Wetting agent & Detergent
SOP
Soaping agent
BAC BAC BAC BAC
Salt (Basic Chemical) Hydrogen Peroxide (Basic Chemical) Soda Ash (Basic Chemical) Caustic Soda (Basic Chemical) Effluent Treatment Plant
Soda Ash or other alkalis are used for fixing the dye on the surface of the fabric.
Caustic Soda is used for ensuring alkali medium in the dye bath containing the fabric and also fixing the dye on the surface of the fabric. The chemicals used in Effluent Treatment Plant are expressed as ETP which are used for the cleaning process of dye liquor.
ETP
Industrial Training
SAM
Code
ACR001 ACR002 ACR003 ACR004 ACR005 ACR006 ACR007 AFM001 AOX001 AST001 BAC001 BAC002 BAC003 BAC004 BAC005 BAC006 BIP001 BIP002 BIP003 BIP004 BOI001 BOI002 BOI003 BOI004 BOI005 BOI006 BOI007 BOI008 CTL001 CTL002 CTL003 DIS001 EPK001 EPK002 EPK003 EPK004 ETP001 ETP002 ETP003 ETP004 ETP005 FIX001 FIX002 FIX003 FIX004 FIX005
Chemical Name
Albafluid C Anticrease AC-200 Jinsofter CAN Jinsofter CBA Jinsofter HG Lubifluid CN Liq Primajol JET Albaflow JET Albatex AR Cyclanon XC-W Glaubers Salt Caustic Soda Hydrogen Peroxide 50% Hydrogen Peroxide 35% Soda Ash Sera Zon C-MS-100 Bio Polish B-600N Generneor BF 1600L Producto B-EAPS New Zymbiosan A liq. Conc. Ambush 4001 Eraser 1001 Eraser 1003 Indion 166 Indion 2574 Indion 4603 Protector 2001 Trooper 5001 Albatex DBC Jinlev CL-225 Regosal RS Liq. Albatex CO Catalose BF HK-20 PK-20 Zymbiosan Ph liq. Conc. COMMON SALT FERROUS SULPHATE HCL LIME POWDER POLYMER Albafix ECO Alcofix R Asufix B-FF Asufix B-SF Conc. Cyclanon Fix
Supplier
SWISS COLOURS Elbe International CHEMITECH SERVICES CHEMITECH SERVICES CHEMITECH SERVICES LEGEND DYCHEM CO. BASF SWISS COLOURS SWISS COLOURS BASF Prantic/Crown International TEX CONCERN TEX CONCERN TEX CONCERN TEX CONCERN SCARLET SERVICES Multichemi TEXODYES CORPORATION ASUCHEM LEGEND DYCHEM CO. SS Vision SS Vision SS Vision Eion Exchange Eion Exchange Eion Exchange SS Vision SS Vision SWISS COLOURS CHEMITECH SERVICES LEGEND DYCHEM CO. SWISS COLOURS R.H. CORPORATION Elbe International Elbe International LEGEND DYCHEM CO. ENVIROTECH LTD. ENVIROTECH LTD. ENVIROTECH LTD. ENVIROTECH LTD. ENVIROTECH LTD. SWISS COLOURS SWISS COLOURS ASUCHEM ASUCHEM BASF
Type
Anticreasing agent Anticreasing agent Anticreasing agent Anticreasing agent Anticreasing agent Anticreasing agent Anticreasing agent Antifoaming agent Antioxidants Antistaining agent Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Biopolishing agent Biopolishing agent Biopolishing agent Biopolishing agent Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Cotton leveling Cotton leveling Cotton leveling Dispersing agent Enzymatic peroxide killer Enzymatic peroxide killer Enzymatic peroxide killer Enzymatic peroxide killer Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Fixing agent Fixing agent Fixing agent Fixing agent Fixing agent
Industrial Training
SAM
Code
FIX006 FIX007 GUM001 NUT001 NUT002 NUT003 NUT004 PEK001 PEK002 POL001 PST001 PST002 RED001 RED002 SEQ001 SEQ002 SEQ003 SOF001 SOF002 SOF003 SOF004 SOF005 SOF006 SOP001 SOP002 SOP003 SOP004 SOP005 UTUM001 WDT001 WDT002 WDT003 WDT004
Chemical Name
Dycloser-S Liq. Conc Jinfix RFC Perapret VA New Acetic Acid Green Acid Invatex AC Albatex AB-45 Catalose T-100 Invatex PC Univadine DIF Stabilizer B Tinoclarite G-100 Hydrose Kappatex RBLN Invatex CS Jintexalate SQ-114 FE Jintexalate SQ-117 CA Sapamine CWS ASL-300 Sapamine KL New Siligen SIH Nano Tubingal1112 Tubingal RGH Albatex AD Asugal B-Albi Dekol SN Eriopon OS Eriopon R Liq. Ultratex UM New Felosan NOF Imerol PCLF Jinterge LFW Invatex CRA
Supplier
LEGEND DYCHEM CO. CHEMITECH SERVICES Mohona Enterprise TEX CONCERN CHEMITECH SERVICES SWISS COLOURS SWISS COLOURS TEXODYES CORPORATION SWISS COLOURS SWISS COLOURS Elbe International SWISS COLOURS TEX CONCERN ARBTEX SWISS COLOURS CHEMITECH SERVICES CHEMITECH SERVICES SWISS COLOURS Elbe International SWISS COLOURS BASF R.H. CORPORATION R.H. CORPORATION SWISS COLOURS ASUCHEM BASF SWISS COLOURS SWISS COLOURS SWISS COLOURS R.H. CORPORATION ENVIROTECH LTD. CHEMITECH SERVICES SWISS COLOURS
Type
Fixing agent Fixing agent Gumming agent Basic chemical Basic chemical Basic chemical Acid Peroxide killer Peroxide killer Dispersing agent Peroxide stabilizer Peroxide stabilizer Reducing agent Reducing agent Sequestering agent Sequestering agent Sequestering agent Softener Softener Softener Softener Softener Antioxidant Soaping agent Soaping agent Soaping agent Soaping agent Soaping agent Basic chemical Wetting & detergent Wetting & detergent Wetting & detergent Wetting & detergent
Industrial Training 4.7. Various Dyeing Processes of ECHOTEX:

SS Critical All 60 Black Dyeing: Dias Dyeing Dyeline
Date Buyer Order Style Yarn + Lot M/C Dia Gauge Colins TSL 18 75849 34/S Com+756 34 24 Recipe No/ Ld Color Fabric quality Fabric composition Finish GSM Finish Dia Black 100% Cotton Single Jersey 140 66 OP Salt SG. After acid pH Fixing pH M/C No. Program No. Batch No. Fabric quantity Starting LR ML
SAM
5 ATHENA2 500H 907 TSL 18003 290kg 5.6
Residual H2O2 Content Enzyme pH Leveling pH
Salt pH (Side Tank) Dyebath pH Dyebath Hardness
Softener pH Unload pH
SDM Cotton Pretreatment with GD/GS without Enzyme L

Code Prep.1 Prep.1 WDT007 SEQ004 Material Jintex GD Conc. Jintex GS Conc. Conc. 1gm/l 0.2gm/l Quantity 1740gm 348gm
Vol=1740
Add1 Add2
SDM Cotton Black Dye with Neutral Enzyme
Vol=1624
Conc. 6.09% 0.397% 0.49% 1.0gm/l 1.0gm/l 0.75% 85gm/l 5.0gm/l 1.5gm/l Quantity 17661.0gm 1151.3gm 1421.0gm 1740gm 1740gm 2175gm 147899.994gm 8700.0gm 2610.0gm Add1 Add2
L
Code Prep.2 Prep.2 Prep.2 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.4 Prep.5 Prep.6 KTB005 KTBK001 KTYL CTL001 ACR005 BIP006 BAC001 BAC005 BAC002 Material Kireactive Black KBN Kireactive Black B Kireactive Yellow HB Albatex DBC Jinsofter HG Welzyme P-1600 Glaubers Salt Soda Ash Caustic Soda
SDM Soaping Without Turquise/Rspl. L

Code Prep.8 Prep.9 NUT002 SOP003 Material Green Acid Dekol SN Conc. 1.7gm/l 1gm/l Quantity 2958.0gm 1740.0gm
Vol=1740
Add1 Add2
Industrial Training
Dyeing Procedure:
Filling the bath with required water Raise the temperature from room temp to 50 0C by Aquachron 2G process Dosing wetting agent and detergent for 6min and loading the fabric Only washing at 900C for 10min Reducing the temperature by Aquachron 2G process to 600C Checking pH of the fabric Salt dosing at 600C for 9min Enzymatic treatment at 600C for 10min Linear Dosing of dyes for 20min Machine is run for 30min at 600C for dye penetration Progressive dosing of Soda ash or Alkali for 60min Machine is run for 30min at 600C for dyeing Check shade of the sample Shade ok Rinsing and draining of the dye liquor for 10min Washing by rinsing twice of the fabric for 30min Acetic Acid washes at 600C for 10min Check pH of the fabric sample Again rinsing Adding soaping chemical at room temperature Rising temperature to 950C at 2G Aquachron in 16min Washing the fabric at 950C for 10min Check shade of the fabric sample Seam detect and unloading the fabric
SAM
Industrial Training
Process Curve:
SAM
120
100 10 10 80 10 Sample pH Control Sample pH Control 16 9 10 20 30 60 30 10 10 10 10 Dyes 40 Sequwsterant Soda Ash Cold Cold 20 Cold 15 Seam detect
Temperature
60
0 0 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240 270 300 330
Time
Industrial Training
All 80 Turquise Dyeing: Dias Dyeing Dyeline
Date Buyer Order Style Yarn + Lot M/C Dia Gauge Primark ETX1104 PMM-001 40/S Com+L-40660 38 24 Recipe No/ Ld Color Fabric quality Fabric composition Finish GSM Finish Dia Pale Aqua 114 100% Cotton Single Jersey 110 72 OP Salt SG. After acid pH Fixing pH M/C No. Program No. Batch No. Fabric quantity Starting LR ML
SAM
4 ATHENA2 500H 908 ETX1104004 530kg 5.6
Salt pH (Side Tank) Dyebath pH Dyebath Hardness
SDM Cotton Bleaching without Enzyme

Code Prep.1 Prep.1 Prep.1 Prep.1 Prep.1 Prep.1 Prep.2 Prep.3 Prep.4 Prep.5 WDT001 SEQ002 SEQ003 ACR005 PST003 AFM001 BAC002 BAC003 NUT001 EPK001 Material Felosan NOF Conc. 0.5gm/l 0.3gm/l 0.0gm/l 1.0gm/l 0.3gm/l 0.1gm/l 1.00gm/l 1.00gm/l 0.80gm/l 0.50gm/l Quantity 1590gm 954.0gm 0.00gm 3180gm 954gm 318gm 3180gm 3180gm 2544gm 1590gm
Vol= 3180L
Add1 Add2
Jintexalate SQ-114 FE Jintexalate SQ-117 CA

Jinsofter HG Prestogen F-PL Albaflow JET Caustic Soda Hydrogen Peroxide 50% Acetic Acid Catalose BF
SDM Cotton /Lycra Dye Turquise 80 Vol=2968L

Prep.6 Prep.6 Prep.6 Prep.6 Prep.7 Prep.7 Prep.8 Prep.9 Prep.10 Prep.11 Prep.6 Code RMBL002 RMTB001 RMBL004 DIS001 DIS001 ACR005 BAC001 BAC001 BAC005 BAC005 BAC002 Material Remazol Brill Blue R-Spl Remazol Turquise Blue G 133% Remazol Brill Yellow 3GL Albatex CO Albatex CO Jinsofter HG Glaubers Salt Glaubers Salt Soda Ash Soda Ash Caustic Soda Conc. 0.033% 0.316% 0.0018% 0.50gm/l 1.0gm/l 1.0gm/l 10gm/l 10gm/l 2.0gm/l 6.0gm/l 0.00gm/l Quantity 174.9gm 1674.80gm 9.540gm 1590gm 1590gm 1590gm 34450.001gm 34450.001gm 6890.0gm 20670.0gm 0.00gm Add1 Add2
Industrial Training
SDM Soaping Without Turquise/Rspl.
Code Prep.8 Prep.9 NUT002 SOP003 Material Green Acid Dekol SN Conc. 1.00gm/l 0.40gm/l Quantity 3180.0gm 1272.0gm
SAM
Add1
Add2
Industrial Training
Dyeing Procedure:
Filling the bath with required water Raise the temperature from room temp to 30 0C by Aquachron 2G process Dosing wetting agent, detergent and leveling chemicals for 10min and loading the fabric Raise the temperature from room temp to 70 0C by Aquachron 2G process Dosing bleaching chemical at 700C and raise the temperature to 950C Bleaching at 950C for 30min Reducing the temperature to 550C and acid washing for 8min Checking pH of the fabric Peroxide killing treatment at 550C for 8min Checking for peroxide presence in the fabric Rinsing and raising temperature to 800C for 60min Checking pH of the fabric Applying leveling chemicals and dye dosing for 20min Dye dissolving with chemicals for 10min at 800C Salt dosing at 800C for 10min and 10min Machine is run for 20min at 800C for dye penetration Progressive dosing of Soda ash or Alkali for 20min Machine is run for 20min at 800C for dye fixing Progressive dosing of Soda ash or Alkali for 30min Machine is run for 30min at 800C for dye fixing Check shade of the fabric sample Rinsing at a temperature to 800C for 10min Draining and filling of water Reducing to a temperature of 600C and washing with acid for 10min Checking pH of the fabric Applying soaping chemical Raising to a temperature of 950C and washing for 10min acid for 12min Checking shade of the fabric
SAM
Industrial Training
Process Curve:
140
SAM
120
100
30 10
pH Control 10 Check Peroxide 20 10 10 10 20 20 20 Dyes Salt Salt 30 30 10 pH Control
80
Temperature
60
Cold
40
8 8
10
Soda Ash
Soda Ash 12 10 Cold Cold Cold
Sample Seam detect
Chemical s 12
Cold
20
Cold Cold
Cold
Seam Detect 10 10 15
0 0 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240 270 0 300 330 360 390 420 450
Time
Industrial Training
SS Critical 40-60 Dyeing: Dias Dyeing
Date Buyer Order Style Yarn + Lot M/C Dia Gauge Residual H2O2 Content Enzyme pH Leveling pH Recipe No/ Ld Color Fabric quality Fabric composition Finish GSM Finish Dia Salt pH (Side Tank) Dyebath pH Dyebath Hardness
SAM
Echotex Limited
Red 178 100% Cotton Single Jersey M/C No. Program No. Batch No. Fabric quantity Starting LR ML
Dyeline
B2 ATHENA2 50H
130kg 7.8
6.4
Salt SG. After acid pH Fixing pH
SDM Prewash Before Topping/Dyeing

Code Prep.1 Prep.1 NUT001 WDT001 Material Acetic Acid Felosan NOF Conc. 0.5gm/l 0.3gm/l Quantity 390gm 234gm
Vol=
Add1 Add2
Reprocess SDM Cotton Dyeing SS Critical 40-60 Code Material Prep.2 Prep.2 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.3 LVBL001 RMRD001 ACR005 CTL001 DIS001 Levafix Blue CA Remazol Red RR Jinsofter HG Albatex DBC Albatex CO
Conc. 0.0016% 0.8047% 1.0gm/l 1.0gm/l 0.3gm/l
Quantity 2.08gm 1046.110gm 780gm 780gm 234gm
Add1
Add2
Prep.4 Prep.5 Prep.6 Prep.7 Prep.7
BAC001 BAC001 BAC005 BAC005 BAC002
Glaubers Salt Glaubers Salt Soda Ash Soda Ash Caustic Soda
17.5gm/l 17.5gm/l 2.0gm/l 3.0gm/l 0.3gm/l
14788gm 14788gm 1690gm 2535gm 254gm
SDM Soaping Without Turquise/Rspl. Code Material Prep.8 Prep.9 NUT002 SOP003 Green Acid Dekol SN
Conc. 1.1gm/l 0.5gm/l
Quantity 858gm 234gm
Add1
Add2
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Dyeing Procedure:
Filling the bath with required water Raise the temperature from room temp to 50 0C by Aquachron 2G process Dosing wetting agent and detergent for and loading the fabric Only washing at 750C for 15min Reducing the temperature by Aquachron 2G process to 40 0C Acid washing at 400C for 10 min Checking pH of the fabric Linear Dosing of dyes for 10min at 400C Sequestering agent dosing at 400C for 10min Linear Dosing of salt twice for 10min at 400C Machine is run for 10min and again salt dosing at 40 0C for 10min Machine is run for 20min at 600C for dye penetration
SAM
Progressive first dosing of Soda ash or Alkali for 20min at 40 0C and second dosing for 25min at 400C Machine is run for 30min at 600C for dyeing Check shade of the fabric
Rinsing and draining of the dye liquor for 10min Washing by rinsing twice of the fabric for 30min Acetic Acid washes at 600C for 10min Check pH of the fabric sample Again rinsing Adding soaping chemical at room temperature Rising temperature to 950C at 2G Aquachron in 16min Washing the fabric at 950C for 10min Check shade of the fabric sample Seam detect and unloading the fabric
Industrial Training
Process Curve:
SAM
120
100
Sample 80 15 pH Control 45 Sample 30 pH Control 10 Seam detect
Temperature
60 16 10 40 Cold Acid 20 Cold Cold Salt Dyes 10 10 10 20 20 Soda Ash 10 10 15
Time
Industrial Training
SDM Turquise 40-80 Dyeing: Dias Dyeing Dyeline
Date Buyer Order Style Yarn + Lot M/C Dia Gauge Recipe No/ Ld Color Fabric quality Fabric composition Finish GSM Finish Dia Salt pH (Side Tank) Dyebath pH Dyebath Hardness 7.0 11.2 Amazon Blue 100% Cotton 1 1 Rib 210 M/C No. Program No. Batch No. Fabric quantity Starting LR ML
SAM
B3 ATHENA2 50H
25kg 5.6
38 24
6.5
6.9
SDM Cotton Prewash before Topping/ Dyeing

Code Prep.1 Prep.1 NUT001 WDT001 Material Acetic Acid Felosan NOF Conc. 0.5gm/l 0.3gm/l Quantity 87.00gm 52.00gm
Vol=
Add1 Add2
SDM Cotton Dye Turquise 40-80

Prep.2 Prep.2 Prep.2 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.4 Prep.5 Prep.6 Prep.7 Prep.8 Code ACR005 CTL001 DIS001 KTBK001 RMTB001 RMBL004 BAC001 BAC001 BAC005 BAC005 BAC002 Material Jinsofter HG Albatex DBC Albatex CO Kireactive Black B Remazol Turquise Blue G 133% Remazol Brill Yellow 3GL Glaubers Salt Glaubers Salt Soda Ash Soda Ash Caustic Soda Conc. 1.0gm/l 1.0gm/l 0.3gm/l 2.9350% 3.5970% 0.0740% 35gm/l 35gm/l 2.0gm/l 3.0gm/l 1.25gm/l Quantity 174gm 174gm 52gm 851gm 1043.130gm 20.460gm 6598.0gm 6598.0gm 377.0gm 566.0gm 236.0gm
Vol=
Add1 Add2
SDM Soaping Turquise/Rspl.

Code Prep.9 Prep.10 NUT002 SOP003 Material Green Acid Dekol SN Conc. 1.5gm/l 1.0gm/l Quantity 251.00gm 174.0gm Add1 Add2
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Dyeing Procedure:
Filling the bath with required soft water Raise the temperature from room temp to 700C by Aquachron 2G process for 15min Dosing wetting agent & detergent, peroxide and caustic for 15min and loading the fabric Raise the temperature from 700C to 950C by Aquachron 2G process for 15min Dosing bleaching chemical at 950C and raise the temperature to 950C Bleaching at 950C for 30min Reducing the temperature to 550C and acid washing for 8min Checking pH of the fabric Peroxide killing treatment at 550C for 8min Checking for peroxide presence in the fabric Rinsing and reducing temperature to 400C for 60min Checking pH of the fabric Applying leveling chemicals and dye dosing for 20min Dye dissolving with chemicals for 10min at 400C Salt dosing at 400C for 10min and 10min Machine is run for 20min at 400C for dye penetration Raise the temperature from 40 to 80 by 2G Aquachron process Progressive dosing of Soda ash or Alkali for 20min Machine is run for 20min at 800C for dye fixing Progressive dosing of Soda ash or Alkali for 30min Machine is run for 30min at 800C for dye fixing Check shade of the fabric sample Rinsing at a temperature to 800C for 10min Draining and filling of water Reducing to a temperature of 600C and washing with acid for 10min Checking pH of the fabric Applying soaping chemical Raising to a temperature of 950C and washing for 10min acid for 12min Checking shade of the fabric
SAM
Industrial Training
Process Curve:
SAM
140
120
100
30 10
pH Control 10 Check Peroxide 20 20 30 30 10 pH Control
80
Temperature
60
Soda Ash Cold 8 8 10 20 10 10 10 Cold 12 Dyes Salt Salt 20
Soda Ash 12 10 Cold Cold Cold
Sample
40
Seam det
20
Cold Cold
Cold
Chemical s
Seam De 10 10
0 0 30 60 90 120 150 180 210 240 270 0 300 330 360 390 420
Time
Industrial Training
CVC Dyeing: Dias Dyeing
Date Buyer Order Style Yarn + Lot M/C Dia Gauge Residual H2O2 Content Enzyme pH Leveling pH Recipe No/ Ld Color Fabric quality Fabric composition Finish GSM Finish Dia Salt pH (Side Tank) Dyebath pH Dyebath Hardness
SAM
Echotex Limited
Coral 3073 60% Cotton/40%Polyester Single Jersey 250 M/C No. Program No. Batch No. Fabric quantity Starting LR ML
Dyeline
4 ATHENA2 50H
684kg 5.6
4.8 4.5
6.0/6.5 5.5
5.5 6.0/6.5
Prep.1 Prep.1 Prep.1 Prep.2 Prep.2 Prep.2
SDM 100Polyester/Lycra Dyeing Code Material DRUB001 Dianix Rubine S-2G SLRD001 Synolon Supper Red EXW SLYL001 POL001 NUT004 ACR005 Synolon Golden Yellow EXW Univadine DIF Albatex AB-45 Jinsofter HG
Conc. 0.04480% 0.19530% 0.0015% 1.0gm/l 1.0gm/l 3.0gm/l
Vol= 4104L Quantity Add1 306.432gm 1335.852gm 10.260gm 4104gm 4104gm 14312gm
Add2
SDM Bleaching Without Enzyme (EPK) 95 20 CVC/PC Code Material Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.4 Prep.5 Prep.6 Prep.7 WDT001 SEQ003 PST003 ACR005 BAC002 BAC003 NUT001 EPK001 Felosan NOF Jintexalate SQ-117CA Prestogen F-PL Jinsofter HG Caustic Soda Hydrogen Peroxide Acetic Acid Catalose BF
Conc. 0.7gm/l 0.3gm/l 0.4gm/l 3.0gm/l 2.0gm/l 2.0gm/l 0.80gm/l 0.50gm/l
Quantity 2873.00gm 1231.00gm 1642.00gm 12312.00gm 8208.00gm 8208.00gm 3283.00gm 2052.00gm
Add1
Add2
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SDM Cotton/Lycra Dyeing SS Critical 40-60 Code Material Prep.8 Prep.8 Prep.8 Prep.3 Prep.3 Prep.3 SYRD005 SYOR002 KTRD006 ACR005 CTL001 DIS001 Synozol Red K-3BS 150% Synozol Orange K-R Kireactive Red Sp-2B Jinsofter HG Albatex DBC Albatex CO Conc. 0.02060% 0.25700% 0.9900% 3.0gm/l 1.0gm/l 0.3gm/l Quantity 140.904gm 1757.880gm 6771.600gm 12312.0gm 4104.00gm 1231.20gm Add1
SAM
Add2
Prep.4 Prep.5 Prep.6 Prep.7 Prep.7
BAC001 BAC001 BAC005 BAC005 BAC002
Glaubers Salt Glaubers Salt Soda Ash Soda Ash Caustic Soda
22.5gm/l 22.5gm/l 2.0gm/l 3.0gm/l 0.6gm/l
10035.0gm 10035.0gm 8892.0gm 13338.0gm 2668.0gm
SDM
Soaping Without Turquise/Rspl. Code Material Prep.14 NUT002 Green Acid Prep.15 SOP003 Dekol SN
Conc. 1.2gm/l 0.7gm/l
Quantity 4952.00gm 2873.00gm
Add1
Add2
Industrial Training
Dyeing Procedure of Polyester part:
Filling the bath with required water Raise the temperature from room temp to 600C by Aquachron 2G process for 6min Checking pH of the fabric
SAM
Dosing dispersing agent, Anticreasing agent and leveling chemicals for 6min and loading the fabric Checking pH of the fabric Linear dosing of disperse dyes for 6min at 600C Again checking pH of the fabric Raise the temperature from 600C to 800C by Aquachron 3G process Raise the temperature from 800C to 1150C by Aquachron 1.5G process Raise the temperature from 1150C to 1300C by Aquachron 1G process Dyeing the fabric at 1300C for 30min Checking for peroxide presence in the fabric Reducing the temperature to 800C by 1.5G process Checking the shade of the fabric Reducing the temperature from 800C to 600C by Aquachron 2G process
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Dyeing Procedure of Cotton part:
Reducing the temperature from 800C to 600C by Aquachron 2G process Dosing wetting agent and detergent for and loading the fabric Only washing at 950C for 30min Reducing the temperature by Aquachron 2G process to 40 0C Acid washing at 400C for 10 min Checking pH of the fabric Linear Dosing of dyes for 10min at 400C Sequestering agent dosing at 400C for 10min Linear Dosing of salt twice for 10min at 400C Machine is run for 10min and again salt dosing at 400C for 10min Machine is run for 20min at 600C for dye penetration
SAM
Progressive first dosing of Soda ash or Alkali for 20min at 40 0C and second dosing for 25min at 400C Machine is run for 30min at 600C for dyeing Check shade of the fabric
Rinsing and draining of the dye liquor for 10min Washing by rinsing twice of the fabric for 30min Acetic Acid washes at 600C for 10min Check pH of the fabric sample Again rinsing Adding soaping chemical at room temperature Rising temperature to 950C at 2G Aquachron in 16min Washing the fabric at 950C for 10min Check shade of the fabric sample Seam detect and unloading the fabric
Industrial Training
Process Curve of Polyester & Cotton Dyeing:
.
140 1300C 30 120 1150C 100
SAM
80
800C 10 10 Dyes 10 10 Check pH
Temperature
60
Shade Check
40
Leveling & Chemical
20
Check pH
Time
120
100
30
80
Sample pH Control 45 Sample 30 pH Control 10 Seam detect
Temperature
60 16 10 40 Cold Acid 20 Cold Cold Salt Dyes 10 10 10 20 20 Soda Ash 10 10 15
Time
5. Finishing:
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SAM
All the processes after knitting and weaving to fabric transportation for garments making are termed as finishing process. The main purpose of finishing process is treating the fabric with chemicals that changes the property of the fibers. The change in fiber property is achieved by various chemical and mechanical treatment of the fabric. 5.1. Objects of Finishing: The objects of finishing process are briefly discussed below: Finishing process is done to improve properties and performance of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve attractiveness of the fabric which is achieved by
improving luster, whiteness of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve quality of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve hand feel of the fabric which is achieved by softening, stiffening and wetting of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve appearance of the fabric which is achieved by Calendaring, Optical brightening of the fabric. Finishing process is done to reduce faults of the fabric. Finishing process is done to maintain the buyer recommended dimension of the fabric. Finishing process is done to match the ordered shade of the fabric. Finishing process is done to improve wearing quality of the fabric. Finishing process is done to facilitate special properties to the fabric which is achieved by providing water proof, flame proof properties to the fabric.
5.2. Types of Finishing: There are mainly two types of finishing process. Such are discussed below: Physical Finishing: Physical finishing is the process of treating the fabric by various mechanical processes for improving the property of the fabric. Physical treatment causes temporary change to the fabric property. Physical or mechanical process is done by Stenter, Dryer, Compactor, Squeezing, and Slitting etc. machines. Chemical Finishing: Chemical finishing is the process of treating the fabric by processing with various chemicals to improve the property of the fabric. Chemical treatment causes permanent changer to the fabric property. Chemical treatment is done by applying various chemicals for processing of the fabric such as; Softeners, Anti creasing, Antifoaming, Enzymes and also other various chemicals.
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Finishing
Physical Finishing
Chemical Finishing
Temporary Calendaring
Permanent Raising
Temporary Starching
Permanent Resin Finish, Softening, Mercerization, Water Repellency, Flame Retardency.
5.3. Finishing calculations: To achieve the required GSM and diameter according to buyer specification the machines diameter is set at cm or mm value. So the diameter set up of machines follow the calculations given below: Fabric required diameter in mm = Fabric required diameter in cm = GSM of the fabric for 5% shrinkage = .
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5.4. The Machines used in the finishing in ECHOTEX: The machines which are used in the ECHOTEX Dye house are given below:
Machine Name
Squeezing Machine Slitting Machine Stenter Weft Straightener Dryer Open Width Compactor Tubular Fabric Compactor Turning Machine
Machine Brand
CORINO MACCHINE CORINO MACCHINE ICOMATEX MAHLO ICOMATEX FERRARO FABCON BEKENS Fabric Reversing Machine
Machine Model Manufacturing Year

ST4-A 2008
Type
MATR. 157/08
APRICORDATAGLIERINA 544 543
2008 2008 2003 2003
MATR. 155/08 FL3 IC10
Comptex-Re 2800 _ _
2008 2008 _
MATR. 5315 _ _
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5.5. Chemical Treatment Process: 5.5.1. Softeners: Softening treatment is one of the most important chemical after treatments in the textile industry. By softening treatment textile can achieve not only soft handle but also: a) Some smoothness. b) More flexibility. c) Drape and Pliability. d) Antistatic properties. e) Luster. f) Soft handle. 5.5.2. Types of softeners: There are mainly four types of softeners which are discussed below: Cationic Softeners. Anionic Softeners. Non-ionic Softeners. Silicon-based Softeners. 5.5.3. Cationic Softener: Cationic softeners are mostly used in a textile industry. Cationic softeners are mainly positively charged softeners. They are mainly quaternary ammonium salts, amino-esters and aminoamides. These softeners are allowed to apply to all kinds of textiles. But these softeners can sometimes cause yellowing effect on the white fabric. Cationic softeners should be applied in acidic condition (pH 4-5). To maintain the acidic condition acetic acid or green acid is applied. Cationic softeners are also called molecular velveting agent because they form bond with negative electric potential of fabric surface. 5.5.4. Anionic Softeners: Anionic softeners are mainly negatively charged softeners. Most of the fibers contain negative charge when in contact with water, so the fibers repulse them causing poor exhaustion then cationic softeners. These softeners can be applied where cationic softeners are restricted. These softeners cannot be applied by exhaustion method instead of that padding method is applied. These softeners have good stability to cellulosic fibers. Anionic softeners should be applied in acidic condition (pH >7). To maintain alkaline medium additional alkali is added. Mainly Sulphate, Sulphonates, Sulphosuccinates and Soaps are anionic softeners.
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5.5.5. Nonionic Softeners: Nonionic softeners are neutrally charged softeners. These softeners can be applied to most fabrics but mainly for white fabrics. These softeners have lubricating, Antistatic and scooping properties. Mainly Polyglycol Esters Oxiethylate products, Paraffins and Fats are anionic softeners. 5.5.6. Silicone Based Softeners: These softeners are insoluble in water. These softeners must be applied after the dissolution in organic solvents or in the form of disperse product. These softeners create a lubricating and water proof film on the fabric surface. These softeners also give the fabric a velvety-silky handle and very high softness. These softeners provide good elastic resilience, crease recovery, abrasion resistance and tear strength. 5.5.7. Mechanism of Softening: Softeners mainly react with the surface of the fibers inside the fabric. The softener molecules penetrate into the fiber forming polymer by reducing the glass transition temperature of the fiber forming polymer and gives a plasticized layer to the fiber. The physical arrangement of the softener molecules depend on the ionic nature of the softener and the hydrophobic nature of the fiber surface. The positively charged cationic softeners orient themselves towards the negatively charged fibers by creating a new surface of hydrophobic carbon chain for which excellent softening and lubricating property is seen on the fabric. Anionic softeners are negatively charged which causes them to keep away from the negatively charged fiber surface which makes the softeners more hydrophilic in nature but causes less softening than cationic softeners. The orientation of non-ionic softeners depends on the nature of the fiber surface, with the hydrophilic portion of the softener being attracted to hydrophilic surfaces and the hydrophobic portion being attracted to hydrophobic surfaces.
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SAM
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(a) Cationic softening mechanism. (b) Anionic softening mechanism. (c) Nonionic softening mechanism at hydrophobic surface. (d) Nonionic softening mechanism at hydrophilic surface. 5.5.8. Softeners used in ECHOTEX industries: There are mainly three types of softeners used in ECHOTEX dye house as follows: a) Cationic Softeners. b) Nonionic Softeners. c) Silicone based Softeners.
Softening products
1. Sapamine CWS 2. Basosoft FEUK 3. Tubingal MSQ 1. Sapamine KLNew 2. Siligen SIH Nano 3. ASL-3000 4. Tubingal1112 1. Tubingal RGH 2. Parapret F-PEB 3. Arristone 64 4. Megasoft SMD
Class
Cationic Softeners Nonionic Softeners 1.
Functions
Used for dyed fabric softening
1. Used for white fabric softening. 2. Sometimes used for dyed fabric softening 1. Used for softening. 2. Increasing luster of the fabric. 3. Sometimes used for fabric shade matching.
Silicone softeners
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5.5.9. Softener applying Recipes: The system which is followed by ECHOTEX dyehouse is given below: The total liquor taken for softener chemical application should be 1/3 of the weight of the fabric, that is, If a fabric weight is x gm then the total liquor should be = Normally in ECHOTEX chemicals are added as = 25-35 gm/l
Recipe of Cationic Softeners: Cationic Softener- 30-35 gm/l Acid- 0.5-1 gm/l Water- Rest Total- 1000cc Recipe of Nonionic Softeners: Nonionic Softener- 30-35 gm/l Water- Rest Total- 1000cc Recipe of Silicone Softeners: Cationic Softener- 30-35 gm/l Silicone Softener- 15-35 gm/l Water- Rest Total- 1000cc
gm.
5.5.10. Check Points of Padder Softening inECHOTEX: The points which are regularly checked during softening in the Squeezing Machine are given below: pH should be within the range of 5-5.5. Acetic Acid is added at 40gm/l- 50gm/l in 200litrer to 300litre water. Temperature should not be high during dissolving Silicone Softeners and mixer motor are not used during dissolving, but are stirred carefully. Padder should be clean during applying softeners. For most colors Sapamine CWS 25gm/l and Tubingal MSQ 15 gm/l are applied except white fabric softening.
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5.6. Mechanical or Physical Treatment:
SAM
5.6.1. Weft Straightening: The main principle of weft straightening is to straighten the yarn and fabric Spirality which is done by allowing the over feed to hold the yarn for passing through a longer path by width stretcher and which is done by screw distortion. The straightened fabric is then passed through the change preventive roller which confirms the straightness of the fabric. Spirality of the fabric is treated by passing the fabric where one bowing roller passes the fabric at negative speed and bowing roller passes the fabric at positive speed. The calculation of weft straightening is given below: R=
R= Straightened effect in cm. r= Straightened effect per pulse in cm. i=no. of pulse per min. L=Strenter length in meter/min. V= Basic speed in meter/min.
Fabric Feed
Scanner Drive Roller
Centering Roller Compensator Roller Width Stretcher Roller Width Expander Roller Width Change Preventive Roller
Figure: Weft Straightener Machine.
5.6.2. Over feed: Over feed device are mainly seen in stenters and compactors. It is used to allow lengthways shrinkage during fabric tensioning. Overfeed devices contains two pairs of powered rollers located above the clip chains, which feed the fabric to the chains at a higher speed than the chains are capable of. This means that the fabric edges are fed onto pins while they are in a crimped position. Clip stenters have specially constructed clips with slits. If the overfeed is increased GSM of the fabric increases and if the overfeed speed is reduced GSM of the fabric reduces.
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Over feed roller
Three finger selvedge uncurler IR Sensor
Pinning Roller Brush Roller Pin Bar
Finger Feed Fabric
Support Roller
Figure: Over Feed Device of Stenter & Open Compactor Machines.
5.6.3. Chain Rails: Cast iron chain is provided for guiding the fabric through the conveyer belt while passing the fabric through the Stenter conveyer where heat is applied for controlling the GSM of the fabric. While passage of the fabric the fabric is attached with the pointed pins and the clip is pulled on the fabric to properly attach the fabric with the pin. The clip helps the pins to hold the fabric through the entire process of the conveyer passage. The values for the _ Average degree of polymerization DP are different depending on the measuring process. The nitrate values (decomposition by nitration) are almost always 10% higher than the cuoxam values (decomposition by solution in cuoxam). Staudinger described this phenomenon as chain length difference CLD and the Chain length is measure by following calculation:
Chain length Difference (%) = 100.
Fabric Attaching Pins Fabric Holding Clip
Figure: Chain rail of Stenter & Open Compactor Machines.
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5.6.4. Hot Air Circulation System:
SAM
In Stenter and Dryer machines air is recirculated which passes from the exhaust stubs and air controller flaps. Then the air is passed over the nozzles through which fabric is passed and routes it over to the heat exchanger which lets the air to be heated by the burner. The circulating air fan allows the hot air to pass uniformly through the nozzles to the fabric where the air controller flaps control the upper and lower nozzle air and thus the fabric is heated. Finally the used hot air is passed on to the exhaust air duct.
Exhaust Sluts
Nozzles Controller Flaps Fabric Guide Heat Exchanger
Circulating Air Chain Rail Burner
Circulating Air Fan
Figure: Hot air circulating system of Stenter & Dryer..
5.6.5. HEAT SETTING: Heat setting is the process by which the fabrics containing thermoplastic fibers are dimensionally stabilized. Such types of fibers are Polyester, Nylon, Elastane which are in raw form and blended form with the Cellulose fibers. These types of fabrics may cause shrinkage or be distorted during various wet processing treatment and other after treatments. The purpose of heat setting is to dimensionally stabilize fabrics containing thermoplastic fibers. The fibers are cured by passing through a heating zone at a temperature of 1300C-2200C for 15-90 seconds that resets the morphology of fiber and creates new fiber property after removing the stress and strains from the fiber and stabilizes the fabric. Heat setting parameters of ECHOTEX is given below: Type of Fiber
Lycra (Half Feeder) Lycra (Full Feeder) Polyester Viscose Modal
Temperature
1700C-1800C 1800C-1950C 1600C-1700C/1800C 1400C-1600C 1400C-1600C
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5.6.6. Shrinkage: Controlled residual shrinkage is an important quality parameter for many fabrics. For example, excessive shrinkage is undesirable for fabrics to be made into garments. Here, the residual shrinkage should be less than 2% otherwise the garment will not fit after it is laundered. Cause of Fabric Shrinkage: Woven and knitted goods are 3-dimensional arrays of crimped yarns. Fabric forming processes take straight lengths of yarns and force them into 2-dimensional crimped lengths. The degree of crimp is a function of the yarn size and fabric construction. When fabric is completely relaxed, the crossing yarns will move around in relation to each other until a stable configuration is reached. This stable arrangement, the point where the relaxed fabric no longer shrinks in width and length, is also related to yarn sizes and fabric construction. When stretching tensions are applied to the fabric, the crimped amplitude decreases and the fabric grows in the direction of the stress. Later when the tensions are relieved and the fabric allowed relaxing, the crimp amplitude returns to its stable configuration and the fabric shrinks. Many fabrics are stretched during wet processing as they are pulled from one operation to another. This is the major cause of fabric shrinkage. 5.6.7. Compactor Head: The key to any compactor is the head where force is applied to move parallel yarns closer together. More fabric must be fed in than is taken off. A Sanforizer uses a thick rubber blanket running against a steam heated cylinder as the compacting force. The thick rubber blanket first goes over a smaller diameter roll which stretches the convex surface of the blanket. Fabric is metered onto the stretched blanket and the fabric and blanket together come in contact with the steam heated cylinder. At this point, the stretched rubber surface contracts to its original length and then is forced to contract an n additional amount as it forms the concave configuration of the heated drum. Since the fabric is not elastic, an extra length of fabric is thrust between the rubber blanket and the heated cylinder. Friction between the rubber blanket and steel drum force adjacent yarns to move closer together until the unit length of fabric become equal to the unit length of rubber blanket it rests on. If the fabric construction does not allow the yarns to move, the extra fabric will buckle developing creases and wrinkles. Heat is created by constantly stretching and relaxing the rubber blanket. The blanket is cooled by spraying water on it after the fabric exits from the unit. Insets in figure show the length variations that occur as the blanket surface goes from convex to straight to concave. The degree of shrinkage can be controlled by the thickness of the blanket. The thicker the blanket, the greater is the stretched length a t the bend. A longer length of fabric will be fed into the compactor causing the degree of compacting t o be greater. Conversely if the blanket is thinner, a lesser degree of compacting will occur. Blanket thickness can be adjusted by means of a 5.6.6.1.
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SAM
pinch roll compressing the rubber blanket. This allows for some degree of "dialing in" the degree of compacting desired. To be effective, the degree of compacting needed should be predetermined ahead of time. This is done by characterizing the shrinking behavior of the fabric by laundering. The degree of compacting should not exceed the degree of shrinking otherwise overcompacting will cause the fabric to "grow" when relaxed. This is as much a disadvantage as is shrinkage.
Figure: Compactor Head
5.6.7.1.
Friction Calendar Compactors: Another method of compacting fabrics is with calendar rolls. The fabric passes between two metal cylinders, one cylinder rotates faster than the other. The fabric is restrained by shoes that are positioned against the cylinders. The fabric delivery cylinder rotates faster than the take-off cylinder and the action is similar to stuffing a string into a straw. The friction causes filling yarns to move closer together and a loss of fabric length. The degree of compacting can be controlled by the differential speeds of the two calendar rolls.
5.6.8. Spirality: The term spirality also known as screwing is a fault of the fabric which causes a spiral or angular effect in the direction of courses and wales of the open width fabric. For finished garments products the angular effect is seen in the direction of the seam line of the garments from the seam line to the back side of the fabric. 5.6.8.1. Reasons for Spirality: The spirality is the symptom which is caused mainly due to spinning of the yarn. Spirality depends on the knitting parameters of the fabric and the quality of yarn used during knitting the fabric. Normally every knitted fabric has spirality. There are mainly two reasons of spirality which are as follows: 1. The System height. 2. The twist of yarn.
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5.6.8.2.
SAM
Total and Residual Spirality: After knitting, the grey fabric on the roll has straight wales. The reason for this is the process of knitting. Under force of the fabric take down, the fabric is directly rolled on, without a possibility to turn the spirality out. The fabric wants to turn but it can't because it is fixed on the roll. The total spirality is the angle between the perpendicular of the courses and wales in relaxed conditions, e.g. after a wash test. In practice, the meaning of spirality is the residual spirality. This means, how much is the potential to turn while a wash test or wearing. This is what is measured in Labor and shout be as less than possible. The second point is the angle between the wales and courses in finished fabric. If this angle is higt and the residual spirality is low, then is something wrong with the knitting parameters. The high angle in finished fabric between courses and wales indicates a high total spirality and the low residual spirality, by a wash test, shows that this spirality is turned out and can't turn much while wearing or in a wash test. The way of finishing is fine. Correcting the angles means to bring the fabric in a form where it won't stay. In different words: the potential of turning is high and if you make some marks on this fabric, after relaxing (wash test) this marks won't have the same distances to each other.
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5.7. Dryer Machine: Dryer machine is used for removing the residual water contained in the fabric after squeezing by applying heat on the fabric. In this machine the fabric is fed on the drying net at low over feed speed and the humidity is continuously measured. Drying is done by applying heat through burner nozzles. During drying the total heat passed through the machine is extracted by the exhaust fan. 5.7.1. Functions: To dry the fabric with the help of blower and burner. To control the shrinkage of the fabric. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process. To dry fabric without tension. To remove residual water containing in the fabric. 5.7.2. Main parts of the machine: Drying Net. Heating Chamber: Blower. Burner. Free Roller. Centering Roller. Scroll Roller. Folder. Rubber Belt for fabric delivery. Exhaust fan. 5.7.3. Temperature of fabric drying:
The temperature of fabric drying increases with the increasing GSM, but the over feed speed decreases.
Fabric Type S/J
Color White Dyed White Dyed White Dyed White Dyed
Speed 10 8 10 12 -15 15 7 -8 7-8 7 -8 7-8
Over Feed 15 -20 15 - 20 30 30 10 10 20 20
Temperature 1200C 1200C 1300C 1200C 1200C 1400C 1200C 1400C 1300C-1400C 1200C 1200C 1300C
Stretch (%) 35% 35% 50% 50% 20% 20% 25% 25%
PK
1x1 Rib
2x2 Rib
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Over Feed
Free Roller Heating Nozzle Exhaust Fan Line
Rubber Belt Delivery roller
Scroll Roller
Folder Drying Net
Centering Roller
Blower
Burner
Figure: Dryer Machine.
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SAM
5.8. Squeezing Machine: Squeezing machine is used for extracting water from dyed fabric by squeezing through rollers having different pressure. Squeezer machine designed to extract water from piece goods treated in rope form. They are used as an intermediate devices such as washers or autonomous devices. In the latter case they are usually full-width squeezers. The first padder rollers gives proper squeeze to the fabric and extracts the water and the second squeeze roller passes the fabric half the speed of the first squeeze roller which causes the softener chemicals tro properly pass into the fabric. 5.8.1. Function of the Machine: To reduce fabric surface water content. Squeezing the fabric for proper softening chemical penetration. Applying softening chemicals to the fabric. 5.8.2. Main parts of the machine: Polyreference or Centering roller. Bello. Bello Alarm. Chemical Tank. Tension roller Squeezing roller. Guide Belt. Guide Roller.
5.8.3. Over feed and Padder pressure of Squeezing Machine: Squeezing over feed and padder pressure is given below: Fabric Type
Single Jersey
Speed
Over Feed Padder Pressure 1

2.5%-3% 1.5bar(Chemical)2 bar(Normal) 1.25bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 1.25bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 1.5bar(Chemical)2 bar(Normal)
Padder Pressure 2
3bar(Chemical)4 bar(Normal) 2.5bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 2.5bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 3bar(Chemical)4 bar(Normal)
60m/min80m/min 30m/min40m/min 20m/min30m/min 20m/min30m/min
1 1 Rib
2.5%-3%
2 2 Rib
2.5%-3%
Loop Back
2.5%-3%
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Centering roller Twister Bello
SAM
Padder
Chemical tank Tension roller
Figure: Squeezing Machine:
5.9. Stenter Machine: The Stenter machine consist of 7 drying chambers, padder rollers and a weft straightening section which enables the machine to control Spirality, Shrinkage, GSM during the fabric passage. During processing first the fabric is passed through the padding section or squeezer for properly squeezing the fabric and processing softening treatment of the fabric through feed roller and guide roller. Then it goes through the weft straightening section where by bowing roller fabric spirality is controlled and then passed through chain rail for shrinkage control. Normally in the Stenter machine the diameter of the fabric is set 1-1.5 less than the required diameter of the fabric.
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5.9.1. Functions of the m/c: To make the fabric dry. For heat setting in case of Lycra, Viscose fabric. To Control Fabric GSM. To control Shrinkage. To Control Spirality. To control fabric Diameter. To make the fabric soft by applying chemical. Width control. 5.9.2. Main parts: Heating Chamber. Blower Width Control Device. Biasing Unit Selvedge Trimming Device. Softener Application Tank. Divider Box Guide roller. Finger Roller. Rider Brush. Blower. Over feed Roller. Bowing Roller. Photocell.
SAM
5.9.3. Temperature & Shrinkage value of Stenter Machine: Stenter Over feed, speed, temperature and shrinkage value is given in the following chart according to ECHOTEX Dyehouse: Fabric Type
S/J PK 1x1 Rib 2x2 Rib
Color
Dyed White White Dyed White Dyed White Dyed
Over Feed
40% 50% 40 % 50% 50% 40% -50% 50% 40% -50% 50% 40% -50%
Speed
18-20 18-20 18-20 18-20 12-15 12-15 15-18 15-18
Temperature
1400C -1600C 1400C 1600C 1600C-1700C 1500C -1600C 1500C-1700C 1500C -1600C 1400C-1500C 1400C -1600C
Stretch (%)
5% 7 15% 15% 15% 2% -3% 2% 3% 10% 10%
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Wheel
Nozzle
Guide Roller Blower Burner
Chain Rail
Figure: Stenter Machine.
5.10.
Compacting Machine: Compacting machine consists of guide rollers, over feed device, chain rail through which the fabric is inserted into the compacting machine adjusting the diameter of the fabric and during this process the stretching or shrinking of the fabric is done. The width of the fabric is adjusted during the passage of the fabric through adjustable conveyer chain rail and the new width is properly given to the on process fabric by passing steam through steam box. The calendaring of the fabric is done while passing the fabric between the belt of the blanket and the heated rollers.
5.10.1. Main Parts: Steam Box. Photocell. Guide Roller. Padder Blanket (Cycle 1 & Cycle 2). Teflon Roller. Steam heated Roller. Overfeed Roller
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5.10.2. Functions of the Machine: This machine is used for the shrinkage control of the final open width fabric at 14%-15% in processing. The required amount of shrinkage is given to the compacting zone of the machine by passing the fabric through the blanket. Final finished width and GSM can be obtained according to the buyer order. The surface of the fabric becomes smooth.
5.10.3. Temperature & Shrinkage value of Open Width Compactor Machine: Compactor Over feed, speed, temperature and shrinkage value is given in the following chart according to ECHOTEX Dyehouse: Fabric Color Over Feed Speed Temperature Stretch Type (%)
S/J PK Dyed White White Dyed 25% 35% 25% 35% 35% -40% 35% -40% 20-25 20-25 18-20 18-20 1200C -1500C 1200C 1500C 1200C-1500C 1200C -1500C 3% 6% 2%-5% 2%-4% 2%-5%
Guide roller Spin Bar roller
Cycle 1 Over feed roller Steam Box
Guide roller
Compacting Blanket Compacting Zone Cycle 2
Spin Bar roller
Figure: Open Width Compacting Machine.
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5.11.
SAM
Slitting Machine: The slitting machine is used in processing fabrics in the open line in the fishing section. The slitting machine consists of a blade and a sensor attached to the blade which indicates the needle line during slit opening the fabric for processing. In the slitting machine the fabric is passed through the twister over the basket containing exhaust fan for circular dropping of the fabric and the blade for cutting the needle line of the fabric and then from the padder and immersion roller through to the turning and delivery roller. Finally the open width fabric is delivered. 5.11.1. Main Parts: J-Box. Twister. Centering Roller. Basket with Exhaust Fan. Knife. Padder/ Immersion roller. Turning Roller. Tension Roller. Sensors. Free Roller. 5.11.2. Functions of the Machine: Slitting the fabric to turn tubular fabric to open width fabric. Softening the fabric by applying softeners. Reducing the content water in the fabric. Squeezing the fabric for proper chemical penetration.
5.11.3. Over feed and Padder pressure of Slitting Machine: Slitting over feed and padder pressure is given below: Fabric Type Speed Over Padder Feed Pressure 1
Single Jersey 60m/min80m/min 30m/min40m/min 20m/min30m/min 20m/min30m/min 2.5%-3% 1.5bar(Chemical)2 bar(Normal)
Padder Pressure 2
3bar(Chemical)4 bar(Normal)
1 1 Rib
2.5%-3%
1.25bar(Chemical)- 2.5bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 3 bar(Normal) 1.25bar(Chemical)- 2.5bar(Chemical)3 bar(Normal) 3 bar(Normal) 1.5bar(Chemical)2 bar(Normal) 3bar(Chemical)4 bar(Normal)
2 2 Rib
2.5%-3%
Loop Back
2.5%-3%
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Centering Roller Twister Sensor Basket
SAM
Delivery Roller
J-Box Knife
Tension Roller
Figure: Slitting Machine.
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5.12.
SAM
Tube Compacting Machine: The tube compacting machine is used for maintaining the shrinkage and diameter of the tubular knit fabric. The diameter adjustment of the fabric is done as the fabric is passed through the spreader and wheel. The fabric is then passed on through the retard roller and feed roller which fixes the diameter of the fabric and through the boiler to the fabric passage belt which causes the compaction of the fabric. Next the fabric is passed on through the guide belt to the folder for fabric delivery. 5.12.1. Main Parts: Guide Roller Fabric Guide belt. Spreader. Free Roller. Sensor. Feed Roller. Retard Roller Shoe. Folder. Monitor. 5.12.2. Functions of the Machine: Controlling the GSM of the fabric. Controlling the shrinkage of the fabric which is normally 3%-4% for single jersey and 5%-8% for 1 1 Rib fabrics. Stretching the width of the fabric. Obtaining GSM and width according to the buyer order. 5.12.3. Shrinkage value of Tube Width Compactor Machine: Tube Compactor shrinkage value is given in the following chart according to ECHOTEX Dyehouse: Fabric Color Stretch Type (%)
S/J 1 1 Rib Rib Dyed White White Dyed White Dyed 2% 3% 3%-5% 6%-8% 8%-10% 5%-7% 5%-6%
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Fabric passing Belt Compacting Blanket
SAM
Centering Roller Boiler heated Feed air Roller Retard Spreader Roller Blade
Guide Roller
Figure: Tube Compacting Machine.
5.13.
GSM change for various types of fabrics after Dyeing and Finishing: During processing the fabric in dyeing and finishing occurs various changes in the GSM of the fabric in different stages which are given below:
5.13.1. GSM change of Single Jersey:

Fabric Name Count Required Finished GSM Treatment observation stage Grey stage Pre-treatment Enzyme Dyeing stage Soaping Fixing & Softening Obtained GSM 120 106 104 120 118 120
Single Jersey
40/1 Count
140
Stentering stage Compacting stage
113 138
Final/finished stage
139
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5.13.2. GSM change for 1 1 Rib:
Fabric Name Count Required Finished GSM Treatment observation stage Obtained GSM
SAM
11 Rib
28/1
170
Pre-treatment
133 132 146 145
Enzyme
Dyeing Soaping
Fixing & Softening Stentering Compacting
147
139 166
Final/finished fabric
169
5.13.3. GSM change for Stripe Grey Mlange Fabric:

Fabric name Stripe fabric Count Required Finished GSM 170 Treatment observation stage Grey fabric Obtained GSM 150 145
30/1
Pretreatment Enzyme
Finishing Stentering Compacting Final/finished fabric
143 144 137 167 169
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5.14. Process flow & machine arrangement in finishing section:
SAM
Dyed fabric
Sewing to make the fabric rolls continuous
Tube finishing
Open finishing
Squeezing (Chemical & Softener treatment)
Slitting to make open fabric (Chemical & Softener treatment)
Drying (Only heating & G.S.M control)
Stentering (G.S.M control, heat setting, Squeezing & chemical treatment)
Turning (Only for single jersey fabric) Compacting (G.S.M control to meet buyers requirements) Compacting (G.S.M control to meet buyers requirements)
Quality Control
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SAM
Dyeing Lab
Layout of Chemical & Physical Lab
Light fastness tester Overlock sewing m/c Pilling Tester Crockmeter Perspirometer
Robolab Lab Dyeing Machine Oven Dryer Digital Balance Quickwash Digital Pipette Washcator machine Tumble dryer Rotawash Soaping machine
Spectrophotometer
Light Box
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Recipe preparation of dyeing lab: Process Sequence of chemical lab dyeing:
Determine Recipe
SAM
Spectrophotometer
Select Color
Search Archive for Similar Color
Calculate Recipe Determine Recipe OK No Adjustment Pass/Fail Laboratory Dyeing Yes Yes Recipe OK Pass/Fail No Adjustment Calculate Adjustment Laboratory Dyeing Yes
Laboratory Dyeing
No
Recipe OK
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Liquor Ratio Sample weight L:R=1:6 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:7 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:8 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:10 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:12 Sample wt=10gm Shade Percentage Salt (gm/l) Soda (gm/l) Caustic(50Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) <0.1 15gm/l 6gm/l 0.9gm 1.8cc 1.05gm 2.1cc 1.2gm 2.4cc 1.5gm 3cc 1.8gm 3.6cc >0.1<0.5 20gm/l 8gm/l 1.2gm 2.4cc 1.4gm 2.8cc 1.6gm 3.2cc 2gm 4cc 2.4gm 4.8cc >0.5<0.7 25gm/l 10gm/l 1.5gm 3cc 1.75gm 3.5cc 2gm 4cc 2.5gm 5cc 3gm 6cc >0.7<1.0 35gm/l 12gm/l 2.1gm 3.6cc 2.45gm 4.2cc 2.8gm 4.8cc 3.5gm 6cc 4.2gm 7.2cc >1.0<2.0 45gm/l 16gm/l 2.7gm 4.8cc 3.15gm 5.6cc 3.6gm 6.4cc 4.5gm 8cc 5.4gm 9.6cc >2.0<3.0 55gm/l 18gm/l 3.3gm 5.4cc 3.85gm 6.3cc 4.4gm 7.2cc 5.5gm 9cc 6.6gm 10.8cc >3.0<4.0
SAM
>4.0<5.0 75gm/l 5gm/l 1.5gm/l 4.5gm 1.5cc 0.41cc 5.25gm 1.75cc 0.48cc 6gm 2cc 0.55cc 7.5gm 2.5cc 0.69cc 9gm 3cc 0.83cc
Salt, Soda & Caustic recommendation for all dyestuffs except Turquise and R-Special:
>5.0
65gm/l 5gm/l 1.3gm/l 3.9gm 1.5cc 0.36cc 4.55gm 1.75cc 0.42cc 5.2gm 2cc 0.48cc 6.5gm 2.5cc 0.6cc 7.8gm 3cc 0.72cc
85g 5gm 1.7g 5.1 1.5 0.47 5.95 1.75 0.55 6.8 2c 0.63 8.5 2.5 0.78 8.5 5c 1.7
Salt, Soda & Caustic recommendation for all dyestuffs including Turquise and RSpecial:
Fibers Used Liquor Ratio Sample weight L:R=1:6 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:7 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:8 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:10 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:12 Sample wt=10gm 100% Cotton, Viscose, Modal, Tencel, Bamboo 95% Cotton/ Viscose/ Modal/ Tencel/ Bamboo + 5% Elastane/ Lycra/ Spandex Shade Percentage Salt (gm/l) Soda (gm/l) Caustic(50Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) <0.1 12gm/l 5gm/l 0.72gm 1.5cc 0.84gm 1.75cc 0.96gm 2.0cc 1.2gm 2.5cc 1.44gm 3.0cc >0.10.5 16gm/l 6gm/l 0.96gm 1.8cc 1.12gm 2.1cc 1.28gm 2.4cc 1.6gm 3.0cc 1.92gm 3.6cc >0.51.0 20gm/l 7gm/l 1.2gm 2.1cc 1.4gm 2.45cc 1.6gm 2.8cc 2.0gm 3.5cc 2.4gm 4.2cc >1.01.5 27gm/l 10gm/l 1.62gm 3.0cc 1.89gm 3.5cc 2.16gm 4.0cc 2.7gm 5.0cc 3.24gm 6.0cc >1.52.0 35gm/l 12gm/l 2.1gm 3.6cc 2.45gm 4.2cc 2.8gm 4.8cc 3.5gm 6.0cc 4.2gm 7.2cc >2.02.5 38gm/l 13gm/l 2.28gm 3.9cc 2.66gm 4.55cc 3.04gm 5.2cc 3.8gm 6.5cc 4.56gm 7.8cc >2.53.0 42gm/l 14gm/l 2.52gm 4.2cc 2.94gm 4.9cc 3.36gm 5.6cc 4.2gm 7.0cc 5.04gm 8.4cc >3.04.0 47gm/l 16gm/l 0gm/l 2.82gm 4.8cc 3.29gm 5.6cc 3.76gm 6.4cc 4.7gm 8.0cc 5.64gm 9.6cc >4.05.0 55gm/l 18gm/l 0gm/l 3.3gm 5.4cc 3.85gm 6.3cc 4.4gm 7.2cc 5.5gm 9.0cc 6.6gm 10.8cc
>5
60g 20g 0g 3.6 6c
4.2 7.0
4.8 8.0
6.0 10.
7.2 12.
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Salt, Soda & Caustic recommendation for Turquise and R-Special only:
Liquor Ratio Sample weight L:R=1:6 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:7 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:8 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:10 Sample wt=10gm L:R=1:12 Sample wt=10gm Shade Percentage Salt (gm/l) Soda (gm/l) Caustic(50Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) Salt (gm/l) Soda (20%) Caustic(20Be) <0.1 >0.10.5 20gm/l 6gm/l 1.2gm 1.8cc 1.4gm 2.1cc 1.6gm 2.4cc 2.0gm 3.0cc 2.4gm 3.6cc >0.51.0 25gm/l 8gm/l 1.5gm 2.4cc 1.75gm 2.8cc 2.0gm 3.2cc 2.5gm 4.0cc 3.0gm 4.8cc >1.01.5 35gm/l 10gm/l 2.1gm 3.0cc 2.45gm 3.5cc 2.8gm 4.0cc 3.5gm 5.0cc 4.2gm 6.0cc >1.52.0 40gm/l 13gm/l 2.4gm 3.9cc 2.8gm 4.55cc 3.2gm 5.2cc 4.0gm 6.5cc 4.8gm 7.8cc >2.02.5 45gm/l 14gm/l 2.7gm 4.2cc 3.15gm 4.9cc 3.6gm 5.6cc 4.5gm 7.0cc 5.4gm 8.4cc >2.53.0 50gm/l 16gm/l 3.0gm 4.8cc 3.5gm 5.6cc 4.0gm 6.4cc 5.0gm 8.0cc 6.0gm 9.6cc
SAM
>3.04.0 55gm/l 18gm/l 3.3gm 5.4cc 3.85gm 6.3cc 4.4gm 7.2cc 5.5gm 9.0cc 6.6gm 10.8cc
>4.05.0 65gm/l 5gm/l 1.3gm/l 3.9gm 1.5cc 0.36cc 4.55gm 1.75cc 0.42cc 5.2gm 2.0cc 0.48cc 6.5gm 2.5cc 0.60cc 7.8gm 3.0cc 0.72cc 1.00cc
>5
15gm/l 6gm/l 0.9gm 1.8cc 1.05gm 2.1cc 1.2gm 2.4cc 1.5gm 3.0cc 1.8gm 3.6cc
70g 5gm 1.5g 4.2 1.5 0.4 4.9 1.7 0.4 5.6 2.0 0.5 7.0 2.5 0.6 8.4 3.0 0.8 1.1
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SAM
Robolab Dye Dispensing Machine: The Robolab Dye Dispensing machine is used for dispensing dyes to find accurate shade of the given fabric sample which cannot be achieved by the precision of human eye. It has the capacity add up to 0.0001% of chemicals which cannot be achieved by human eye. The necessary water is supplied to the machine from the supply of the industry which is connected under the machine. The dye container bases are connected to the auxiliary dosing base which takes the necessary amount of dye from the containers and the gripper sets the breaker bases below the auxiliary dosing base by automatic passage through conveyer chain. There is a sensor attached to the gripper which controls the movement of the gripper. For identifying the selected dye solution a rotating magnetic stripper is contained inside the dye container bases.
Automatically Moveable Conveyer Gripper Auxiliary Dosing Base Breaker Base
Container Base Grid Table
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SAM
Lab dyeing Machine: The Lab dyeing machine contains a slot or holder for holding dyeing tubes in the machine. The process of dyeing is done in the machine by continuous rotation of the machines the lab machine contains a sensor tube which allows the indication of the temperature of the lab dyeing machine. According to the set program the dyeing machine rotates to imitate the circular rotation of the dyeing machine. The lab dyeing machine of ECHOTEX contains 19 dyeing tube holders and one sensor tube.
Control Monitor
Moveable Top Dyeing Tube Lab Dyeing Machine.
Figure: Lab Dyeing Machine.
Industrial Training
Procedure for lab dip by preparation in the laboratory :
SAM
Procedure for fabric dyeing: 1. Calculate the recipe of dyeing the fabric from spectrophotometer by saving the sample swatch color in the computer. 2. Select various color brands from estimation of the tone of the fabric. 3. After receiving various recipes from the spectrophotometer select the recipe having near to zero da*, db*,dL*,dc*, dH* value where, a*= Reddish/ Greenish of the tone. b*= Yellowish/Bluish of the tone. C*= Croma/Brightness of the tone. H*=Hue /angle of the tone. L*= lightness/ Darkness of the tone 4. Taking small piece of fabric from the bleached fabric stock. 5. Cutting and weighing 10gms of fabric in the weight balance. 6. Then the fabric is placed in the dyeing tube. 7. Then the dyes, chemicals & required amount of additional water are taken in the beaker by the digital pipeting. 8. Then the salt weighed in the electric balance and added in to the dyeing tube and thus placed in the lab dyeing machine. 9. Then the dyeing tube is set in to the lab dyeing machine for dyeing. Calculation for lab deep: Recipe calculation formula: Dye = .
Calculation of auxiliaries (chemicals): Required amount of solution (mls) = Salt and soda calculation follows the following formula: Salt in g/l = Soda in gm/l=
. .
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Conversion formula from percentage to g/l is as below: Gm/l = required amount (%) 10. If alkali conc. Is given in Be. then the formula to calculate this in gm/l is as follows : Required amount of solution (mls) = Or, Required amount of solution (mls) = Or, Required alkali solution in c.c. =
SAM
Programs: Controlling parameters dyeing lab machine of programs:

= Indicates the temperature = Indicates the gradient or temperature increase in m/min =Time of Dyeing =Speed of machine tube rotation =Machine Halt times
Industrial Training
SAM
1) Dyeing Program and Process curve of Cotton dyeing for light to medium shade is given below: The procedure of lab dyeing of light shade fabric is given below: 1. Start the program for dyeing. 2. The whole dyeing for dyeing dark shade fabric is 60 min at 60 C temperature. 3. After adding salt in the dyeing tubes run the machine for 30min at 600C temperature. 4. After 30 minutes of dyeing get the dyeing tube out of the dyeing machine and then soda ash is added by pipeting. 5. Again run the program for next 30 minutes at 60 C temperature. 6. After finishing the dyeing process the dyeing tube is taken out from the machine 7. First hot wash is given & then cold wash is given. 8. Then acid wash is given by washing in 0.7gm/l acetic acid for neutralization. 9. Then soaping is done for 10 min at 90 C temperature by adding 2gm/l of Dekol SN soap. 10. After that the fabric is rinsed in cold water. 11. Then drying of the lab dip is done in the Quickwash machine and finally comparing with the standard in the light box.
Industrial Training
01-04
600C 4.00C/min A= 30min 30rpm 1 B=
SAM
02-04
600C 4.00C/min 60min 30rpm 0
03-04
380C 4.00C/min C= 0min 30rpm 0
60 C 30min 40C/min Room Temperature (380C) Dye Water Leveling Salt Fabric Time
60min
C
40C/min 380C Soda dosing Batch drop
Industrial Training
SAM
2) Dyeing Program and Process curve of Cotton dyeing for Dark shade is given below: The procedure of lab dyeing of dark shade fabric is given below: 1. Start the program for dyeing. 2. The whole dyeing for dyeing light shade fabric is 70 min at 60 C temperature. 3. After adding salt in the dyeing tubes run the machine for 35min at 600C temperature. 4. After 35 minutes of dyeing get the dyeing tube out of the dyeing machine and then soda ash is added by pipeting. 5. Again run the program for next 70 minutes at 60 C temperature. 6. After finishing the dyeing process the dyeing tube is taken out from the machine 7. First hot wash is given & then cold wash is given. 8. Then acid wash is given by washing in 0.7gm/l acetic acid for neutralization. 9. Then soaping is done for first 10 min at 95 C and second 10 min at 90 C temperature by adding 2gm/l of Dekol SN soap. 10. After that the fabric is rinsed in cold water. 11. Then drying of the lab dip is done in the Quickwash machine and finally comparing with the standard in the light box.
Industrial Training
01-03
600C 4.00C/min 35min 30rpm 1
SAM
02-03
600C 4.00C/min 70min 30rpm 0
03-03
380C 4.00C/min 0min 30rpm 0
600C 35min 40C/min Room Temperature (380C) Dye Water Leveling Salt Fabric Time
70min 40C/min 380C
Soda dosing
Batch drop
Industrial Training
SAM
3) Dyeing Program and Process curve of Cotton dyeing for R-Special dyes are given below: The procedure of lab dyeing of R-Special with fabric is given below: 1. Start the program for dyeing. 2. The whole dyeing for dyeing light shade fabric is 50 min at 60 C temperature. 3. After adding salt in the dyeing tubes run the machine for 25min at 600C temperature. 4. After 25 minutes of dyeing get the dyeing tube out of the dyeing machine and then soda ash is added by pipeting. 5. Again run the program for next 50 minutes at 60 C temperature. 6. After finishing the dyeing process the dyeing tube is taken out from the machine 7. First hot wash is given & then cold wash is given. 8. Then acid wash is given by washing in 0.7gm/l acetic acid for neutralization. 9. Then soaping is done for 10 min at 90 C temperature by adding 2gm/l of Dekol SN soap. 10. After that the fabric is rinsed in cold water. 11. Then drying of the lab dip is done in the Quickwash machine and finally comparing with the standard in the light box.
Industrial Training
01-03
600C 4.00C/min 25min 30rpm 0
SAM
02-03
600C 4.00C/min 50min 30rpm 0
03-03
600C 25min 40C/min Room Temperature (380C) Dye Water Leveling Salt Fabric Time
50min 40C/min 380C
Soda dosing
Batch drop
Industrial Training
SAM
4) Dyeing Program and Process curve of Polyester dyeing is given below: The procedure of lab dyeing of Polyester fabric is given below: 1. Start the program for dyeing. 2. The whole dyeing for dyeing Polyester fabric is 40 min at 130 C temperature. 3. After adding leveling chemical, dispersing agent and chemicals fabric is immersed in the dyeing tubes and run the machine at 1300C for 40min. 4. After finishing the dyeing process the dyeing tube is taken out from the machine 5. First hot wash is given & then cold wash is given. 8. Then acid wash is given by washing in 0.7gm/l acetic acid for neutralization. 9. Then soaping is done for 10 min at 90 C temperature by adding 2gm/l of Dekol SN soap. 10. After that the fabric is rinsed in cold water. 11. Then drying of the lab dip is done in the Quickwash machine and finally comparing with the standard in the light box.
Industrial Training
01-06
SAM
02-06
1100C 2.50C/min 0min 30rpm 0
03-06
1300C 1.50C/min 40min 30rpm 0
04-06
1000C 2.00C/min 0min 30rpm 0
05-06
06-06
Industrial Training
SAM
1300C 1100C 2.50C/min 900C Room Temperature (380C) 40C/min
40min
1300C 1.50C/mi 0 100nC 20C/mi n 700 C 30C/mi n 500 C 40C/mi n 380 C Batch drop
Dye Water Antioxidant Dispersing pH Fabric Agent controller Time
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SAM
5) Dyeing program and process curve of Cotton dyeing for Turquise color is given below: The paocedure of Turquise color dyeing is given below: 1. Start the program for dyeing. 2. The whole dyeing for dyeing Turquise color with fabric is 45 min at 80C temperature. 3. After adding salt in the dyeing tubes run the machine for 20min at 800C temperature. 4. After 20 minutes of dyeing get the dyeing tube out of the dyeing machine and then soda ash is added by pipeting. 5. Again run the program for next 45 minutes at 60 C temperature. 6. After finishing the dyeing process the dyeing tube is taken out from the machine 7. First hot wash is given & then cold wash is given. 8. Then acid wash is given by washing in 0.7gm/l acetic acid for neutralization. 9. Then soaping is done for first 10 min at 90 C and second 10 min at 90 C temperature by adding 2gm/l of Dekol SN soap. 10. After that the fabric is rinsed in cold water. 11. Then drying of the lab dip is done in the Quickwash machine and finally comparing with the standard in the light box.
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01-05
SAM
02-05
800C 4.00C/min 20min 30rpm 0
03-05
04-05
800C 4.00C/min 45min 30rpm 0
05-05
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SAM
800C 20min 800C 45min 40C/min 40C/min 600C 25mi 5min 40C/min n 25min Room Temperature (380C) Dye Water Leveling Salt Fabric 50mi 50min n Time 40C/min 40C/min
700C 25mi n Soda dosing 50mi n
380C Batch drop
Specifications of Lab Machines:
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Machine Name
Robolab XPN
SAM
Machine Model
Serial No.: 0962
Machine Brand
(talos Robotics)
Testing
Dye preparation in Dyeing Tubes
Function
Automatic dye dispensing. Preparing Dye liquor solution. Passing necessary water for dyeing tube. Measuring approximate amount of dye liquor needed.
Rotawash
SDL ATLAS (Textile Testing Solution)
Model No.: M228B Serial No.: 628F004 _
Fastness of dyed fabric
Testing fastness of colored fabric. Testing resistance to continuous friction of the fabric.
AHIBA IR
Datacolor
Lab Dyeing Machine Sample Shade Matching
Dyeing the sample fabric.
Spectrophotometer
Datacolor
Estimating the dyes required for matching the ordered shade. Calculating the percentage of dyes required match the ordered sample. Measuring the color difference of the dyed sample to the ordered sample. Estimating the corrective recipe of the unmatched shade. Saving the required order sample shade in the computer memory. Weighing fabric sample, salt, soda and other chemicals precisely. After washing of the dyed fabric sample.
Weighing Balance
Pioneer (OHAUS) Rapid
Model No.: PA213 Model No.: L24C-1 Serial No.: 5449 Model No.: Washcator FOM71CLS Model No.: M238AA Serial No.: 708E0094
Weighing of fabric samples Soap washing of the dyed fabric sample. Drying for measuring Shrinkage. Rubbing testing.
Soaping Machine
Tumble Dryer
SDL ATLAS (Textile Testing Solution) AATCC
For fabric shrinkage measuring in continuous motion. The fastness property of the fabric towards rubbing.
Crockmeter
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Machine Name
Digital pipette
SAM
Machine Model
Model No.: A0900034
Machine Brand
RAININ
Testing
Function
Pippeting of Chemicals
Pipetteing of leveling chemicals. Pipetteing of leveling soda or alkali. Precise measurement of the chemicals used for after treatment. The color fastness to light of the fabric is measured by using light source. For fabric shrinkage measuring in relaxed state.. Aggitation of the fabric for removing water. Spinning of the dyed fabric. Drying of the dyed fabric. Measuring resistance to pilling by continually rotating in an uneven and closed surface.
Light Fastness Tester Flat Dryer (Oven R-1) Quickwass Machine
Suntest CPS
Light Fastness testing. Shrinkage measurement Washing and fabric shrinkage measuring. Pilling resistance
XIAMEN RAPID CO. LTD. SDL ATLAS
Serial No.:3351 Model No.:R-1 Model No.:M222QW Serial No.:533 Model No.:M2274 Serial No.: 668E0012
Pilling tester
SDL ATLAS
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SAM
Finishing lab Testing: Perspiration test: Normally a human body can produce two types of perspiration mainly acidic perspiration & alkaline perspiration.
1. Acidic Perspiration Test: Apparatus: The apparatus used for testing acidity of fabric perspiration is given below: AATCC Perspiration Tester. Acrylic Resin plates. 4.54kg weight of SDL Atlas ISO meter. 3.63kg weight of AATCC meter. Incubator. Flat Dryer. Recipe: The recipe for testing acidity of fabric perspiration is given below: NaCl-5gm/l L-Histadine Monohydrocyhloride H2O-0.5gm/l Sodium Dihydrogen Phosphate Dehydrate-2.2gm/l Fabric Weight: 2gm. Material : Liquor -1:50 Sample size: The size of the fabric sample should be 10cm 4cm. Procedure: The procedure of testing acidity of fabric perspiration is given below: The solution must be prepared for 1litre solution instead of which 100ml water was taken in a bicker. Then 0.5gms of NaCl, 0.05gms of L-Histadine Monohydrocyhloride H2O and 0.22gms of Sodium Dihydrogen Phosphate Dehydrate was taken in the bicker and the Acidic perspiration solution was prepared. Then a 10cm 4cm fabric sample was cut dropped in the solution. The sample is dropped into the solution and kept there for about 20mins for wetting. After that the fabric is placed in between the glass or Acrylic Resin plates of the AATCC Perspiration Tester. Then 4.54kg weight of SDL Atlas Perspirometer is placed on the Perspiration Tester for testing fabric perspiration according to ISO105-E04C4 method and for testing fabric perspiration according to AATCC meter 3.63kg weight is placed on the Perspiration Tester. Next the Perspirometer is placed in the Incubator for 4hours at 370C 20C temperature. Finally the fabric is dried at 600C in the Flat Dryer.
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2. Alkaline Perspiration Test: Apparatus: The apparatus used for testing alkalinity of fabric perspiration is given below: AATCC Perspiration Tester. Acrylic Resin plates. 4.54kg weight of SDL Atlas ISO meter. 3.63kg weight of AATCC meter. Incubator. Flat Dryer. Recipe: The recipe for testing alkalinity of fabric perspiration is given below: NaCl-5gm/l L-Histadine Monohydrocyhloride H2O -0.5gm/l Di-Sodium Hydrogen Phosphate Anhydrous Purified -2.5gm/l Material : Liquor -1:50 Sample size: The size of the fabric sample should be 10cm 4cm.
SAM
Procedure: The procedure of testing acidity of fabric perspiration is given below: The solution must be prepared for 1litre solution instead of which 100ml water was taken in a bicker. Then 0.5gms of NaCl, 0.05gms of L-Histadine Monohydrocyhloride H2O and 0.25gms of Di-Sodium Hydrogen Phosphate Anhydrous Purified was taken in the bicker and the Acidic perspiration solution was prepared. Then a 10cm 4cm fabric sample was cut dropped in the solution. The sample is dropped into the solution and kept there for about 20mins for wetting. After that the fabric is placed in between the glass or Acrylic Resin plates of the AATCC Perspiration Tester. Then 4.54kg weight of SDL Atlas Perspirometer is placed on the Perspiration Tester for testing fabric perspiration according to ISO105-E04C4 method and for testing fabric perspiration according to AATCC meter 3.63kg weight is placed on the Perspiration Tester. Next the Perspirometer is placed in the Incubator for 4hours at 370C 20C temperature. Finally the fabric is dried at 600C in the Flat Dryer.
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SAM
pH Test by Unisol Indicator Solution (Qualikems): Unisol Indicator Solution is normally used for testing pH of bleached and white fabrics.
Recipe:
0.2ml solution of Unisol Indicator is added with 10 ml of water and thus the Indicator solution is prepared.
Procedure: The procedure of testing pH using Unisol Indicator Solution is given below: First two bleach and white fabric samples were taken weighing 0.5gm. Then 1-2 drops of the solution is dropped on the fabric surface and let it dry for 510 seconds. Test results: Bleach Fabric:
The color change in the dropped area is darker orange which shows that its pH is 5.5 according to pH change classification.
White Fabric:
The color change in the dropped area is light reddish which shows that its pH is 5.0 according to pH change classification.
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SAM
Test of Print Durability: Print durability is the ability of the fabric to retain printed design and color without any bleeding of the dyes. Test of print durability confirms if the print is properly done on the fabric surface.
Apparatus: The apparatus used for testing print durability of printed garments is given below: Washcator. Multi Fiber Fabric. Recipe: The recipe for testing acidity of fabric perspiration is given below: ERE Non Phosphate Reference Detergent (A): 4gm/l Sodium Perboate Tetra hydrate Pure (NaBO34H2O)-2.2gm/l Fabric Weight: 2gm. Material : Liquor -1:50 Sample size:
The size of the fabric sample should be 10cm 4cm.

Procedure: The procedure of print durability testing of garments is given below: First select two printed T-Shirt samples for testing. Then cut a piece of cloth from one printed sample having size of 10cm 4cm. Attach the cut sample and multifiber fabric on the printed side of the T-Shirt. Place the testing garments in the washcator machine and wash at a temperature of 370C 20C. Wash the garments three times to properly estimate the bleeding of the garments.
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Rubbing Test: Rubbing test is done for testing the fabric resistance to rubbing and abrasion.
Apparatus: The apparatus used for testing rubbing fastness of fabric is given below: Cerockmeter. Multi Fiber Fabric. Rubbing Cloth. Sample size:
SAM
The size of the rubbing fabric sample should be 5cm 5cm.

Procedure: The procedure of rubbing testing of fabrics is given below: First placing the rubbing cloth on the rubbing finger for testing. Then placing the testing fabric on the rubbing plate. Next placing the clamp on the fabric. Then rotating the hand wheel for 10 times for 10sec. Removing the fabric and testing it in the spectrophotometer for fastness measuring.
To measure the dimensional stability (Shrinkage & Spirality ): Procedure: a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioning before starting test. b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitch the sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine. c. Put sample in washing machine in the following ways for different buyer : 1. ECHO: Gentle Wash Temp 40 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min. 2. DECATHLON: Normal Wash Temp. 40 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min. 3. CAREE FOUR: Normal Wash Temp. 40 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min. 4. WELL LORD: According to care label if mentioned or Normal Wash Temp. 40 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min. 5. EURO CENTRA: According to care label if mentioned or Normal Wash Temp. 40 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min. 6. SQURE: Gentle Wash Temp 50 3 C (washing +4 Rinse +3 Spin) total 30 min . d. Drying: All Buyers requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO SCOURING is flat dry.
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Shrinkage test calculation: Shrinkage % = Suppose, =
SAM
The length of the specimen before wash upper/middle/lower portion = 35 cm The upper portion length of the specimen after wash according to the temple mark =34.2 cm The middle portion length of the specimen after wash according to the temple mark =33.5 cm The lower portion length of the specimen after wash according to the temple mark =34.3 cm We know, Shrinkage % (length wise)
=
( )
= = 2.87 % If the buyer want to extension the shrinkage result then the result positive or the buyer want to reduce the shrinkage result then the result negative. Spirality test calculation: Spirality % =
Suppose, A = the right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash = 7.5 cm B = the left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash = 6 cm Length before wash = 4 Spirality % = = 47 = 14.36 %
{(7.5+6) / 2} X 100
Industrial Training 8. Batching:
SAM
Batching is an important part for both dyeing and storage process. In the ECHOTEX textile mill the batching process plays an important role in dividing the fabrics into batches according to the capacity of each nozzle and the capacity of the dyeing machines. The batching section not only deals with the internally produced fabrics but also the fabrics which are produced outside the factory and are dyed to the buyers speciation. 8.1. Definition:
Batching is the process of distributing the similar rope fabrics in a set or group form for the processes of dyeing and finishing at a single time as a collective unit. The batching process is described in a batch card where the entire process of dyeing and finishing is described.
8.2. Calculation of Batching:
The calculation by which batching of knitted fabrics is done to divide them into the number of nozzles per machine is shown below: Wt. in kg = Length in meters = . In the batch section a fabric of 840 meter length could be passed through a nozzle. If the GSM of the fabric is less than the length of the fabric will be decreased which could cause problems of getting twisted in the nozzle. For example, If a 100 GSM 60 inch diameter fabric is fed in the dyeing nozzle then it is expected that the 800 meter fabric will be decreased to the length of 700 meter of fabric. If the GSM of the fabric is more than the length of the fabric will be increased which will allow the fabric to pass smoothly in the nozzle. For example, If a 150 GSM 80 inch diameter fabric is fed in the dyeing nozzle then it is expected that the 800 meter fabric will be increased to the length of 840-850 meters of fabric.
8.3. Batch card:
The batch card used in the ECHOTEX dyehouse is given below:
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Dye House Process Route Card
Reference No 2010 Buyer: Order No: Batch No: Style No: Loading Date & Time: Uploading Date &Time: Yarn Quality: Yarn Source: Yarn Lot: Fabric Type:
SAM
Batch Prepared Date: 20-07NORBAN NBD 23 NBD 23008 NBD 920 M/C NO: Color: Recipe No: Batch Weight: Enzyme Treatment: Turning: 05 244/PFLAUME 75.0 Double Enzyme & Silicone Finish Yes
Knitting Specifications
50% Cotton+ 50% Modal V.Man 130017 Single Jersey Yarn Count: Stitch Length: Finished GSM: Knitting Factory: 30s/l modal + Cotton 2.82 150 Anindya
Open
Heat Setting Pre Post Singeing Mercerizing Raising/Brush Shearing Sueding Stentering Dryer Compacting Dyeing Slitting&Squeezing Squeezing Dryer Stentering Compacting Dryer Compacting
Process Flow Tube Yarn Dyed

M/C Dia GG 34 24 Finished Dia 64(OP)
Dyeing
Printing
Biopolishing
Normal wash
Temp
Time
Identificatio n mark (1)
No. of Rolls 05
Weight (kg) 75
Remarks 1 2 3 4 5 6
Nozzle
Trolley
Rib
Collar (Size in Cm) Cuff (Size in Cm) Twill Tape Total 05 75
Sample & R&D Specification For Bulk Finish Open Slitting Tube Squeezer Stenter Dryer Open Compactor Tube Compactor Raising Sueding
Dimensional Stability
L:
W:
Spirality:
Comments:
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FiFinishing Specification Shade Quality Control:
OK Not OK
SAM
RPCS gm/l gm/l gm/l gm/l
ROUTE 1
M/C Speed Over Feed% Temperature Shrinkage% GSM M/C Speed Over Feed% Width after Padder Pressure Pre Hear Setting Set Width Width after L: Before_ W: Spi: After_ M/C Speed Over Feed% Temperature Shrinkage% M/C Speed Over Feed% Width after Padder Pressure
ROUTE 2
Squeezing
Slitting/ Squeezing
Drying
L:
W:
Spi: After GSM After Width
Stenter
M/C Speed Over Feed% Temperature Shrinkage% GSM Gumming Set Width Width after M/C Speed Set Width Over Feed% Shrinkage% Shoe Temp Retarding Roll Fabric Speed Drum Speed After Dia
Tube Compactor
L: Before_
W: Trimming
Spi: After_
L:
W:
Spi:
Cylinder Temp
Compacting
Fabric Speed M/C Speed After GSM Steam Pass Cylinder Temp Set Width After Width Blanket Pressure
Raising
Pile Height GSM After
VLOUR/TERRY/FLEECE
Pre/Post-Shearing
Fabric Speed M/C Speed Temperature Fabric Width Fabric GSM Greige Weight Finish Weight No. of Rolls Blade Setting Polishing Tigering Fabric Speed Drum Speed Dia After
Sueding
Pile Height GSM After
Result of Finishing
Dimensional Stability Spirality Process Loss (kg) Process Loss% Fastness L: W:
Remarks
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8.4. Machines of batching section: 1. 4 Over lock sewing machines. 2. 1 Turning machine. 1. Fabric Reversing Machine:
SAM
Fabric reversing machine is used for turning the knitted tubular fabric from back side to face side as the Single Jersey, Terry Fleece, Single Lacoste and Double Lacoste fabrics loops are knitted at the back side. So to turn the loop side of the fabric at front fabric reversing machine is used. Fabric turning is done by passing air through air flow pipe. The air flow speed during loading is 600m/min and air flow speed during unloading is 300m/min.
Fabric Passage Roller
Air Flow Pipe
Figure: Vertical Fabric Reversing Machine
8.5. Process of batching:
The entire process of batching is discussed below: Producing the batch plan of the fabric from the order sheet for the dyeing of the fabric. From the Batch plan and the order sheet creating the process route card or batch card. Weighing the fabrics rolls. Logging the total weight of the fabric in one day production. Turning the fabrics in the fabric reversing machine. Sewing all the identical fabrics of the same order sheet continuous. Supply the continuous fabrics through the nozzle to the dyeing floor.
8.6. Advantages of Batching: Saving space consumption by storing fabrics circularly. Protecting the fabrics from dirt, dust particles. While passing the fabric to the dyeing machine no interaction is occurred. High fabric passage speed. Easier method of detecting the fabric. Capacity to load higher quantities of fabrics. Identifying the process loss of the fabrics.
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8.7. Disadvantages of Batching: Higher investment and machinery cost for placing individual batching section. Losing Batch Card of an individual fabric. Delay in supplying the fabric to the dyeing machine. Passing same fabric of different GSM. Causing tension to the fabric during passage. Estimating faulty information about the next processes.
SAM
8.8. Buyers: The buyers which are involved with ECHOTEX are also listed with the specification of their requirements in the batching section. Some of the buyers involved with ECHOTEX are given below: New Look. Fat face. Primark. Peacock. DBM. Team scouring. Norban. Colins. Loft. Artman. DBHM. SRL.
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8.9. Process Flow of the Batching Section: The process flow of the Batching Section is given below:
SAM
Collecting produced and stored fabric
Identifying all fabric rolls of the same order sheet
Weighing the fabric
Reversing or Turning the fabric
Making fabric rolls continuous
Calculating fabrics per nozzle
Storing fabrics for dyeing
Passed for Dyeing
Industrial Training 1. Q.A.D:
SAM
The full abbreviation of Q.A.D. is Quality Assurance Department which is needed for the purpose of checking the quality of the fabric. Quality is mainly checked for ensuring that the fabric is suitable to meet all the requirements according to the customers specified order. The quality can be classified by four types which are discussed below: 1. Product based quality: Product based definition of quality mainly depends on the quality. Product based quality is more related to manufacture. More the number of units in specified time more is product based quality. From the user point of view more number of units in a specific cost is called product based quality. 2. User based quality: The user based quality simply means the quality, whatever the customer says or wants. In short, meeting or exceeding customers requirement and expectations. 3. Manufacturing based quality: The definition of this quality means, meeting specifications or conformance to requirements. It is nothing but manufacturing based quality. Any deviation from meeting the requirements means poor quality. 4. Value based quality: In this type of quality, there is more consideration of cost of a product or service.
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1.1. Organogram of Quality Assurance Department: Quality Control Manager Sample Incharge Quality Inspector Sample Chaser Sample Helper Senior Quality Control Inspector Quality Control Inspector Quality Control Trainee
SAM
1.1.1. Inspection Process:

Inspection of the fabric is done by the quality inspectors intended for ensuring proper quality of the fabric at various sections of the dyeing, Knitting and finishing section. The System which is used by the ECHOTEX textile industry is 4Point inspection system. The inspection process of ECHOTEX textile industry is discussed below: 1.1.2. 4-Points system: The 4-points system are called American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) Point grading system for determining fabric quality is widely used by the department of defense in the united state and endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society of Quality Control) In this system fabric faults are identified with defect point in the scale of i.e. maximum defect point is 4.
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1.1.3. Pointing System for Fabric faults:
SAM
The faults are pointed acceding to the size of the defect and the size of the hole in the knitted fabric. For fault pointing system according to the size of defect is as follows: Fabric defect size Up to 3 More than 3 but less than 6 More than 6 but less than 9 More than 9 Penalty point 1 Points 2 Points 3 Points 4 Points
For fault pointing system according to holes and opening is as bellow: Size of hole less than 1 More than 1 Knot (4 types) less than 3 Slubs- less than 3 Penalty points 2 Points 4 Points 1 Points 1 Points
Total defect points per 100 square yds are calculated and normally those fabric roll containing more than 40 points/100 yds are considered seconds however a garments manufacture based on the price line and type of garments produced may use more or less than 40 points / 100 yds as an acceptance criteria. For example, a fabric rolls 120 yds long and 48 in width contains the defect: Defects seen on the fabric sample
A. B. C. D. 2 defects up to sample 5 defect over 3 in but less than 6 in. 1defect over 6in but less than 6 in 1 defects over 9 in.
Total defects point Therefore, Points/100 yd2 = =
Defect points of every faults 2 1=2 points 5 2=10 points 1 3=3 points 1 4=4 points =19 points
= 11.9 defect points/ 100 yd2 So if the acceptance criteria are 40 points/100 yd2 then this roll is acceptable. The maximum number of defect points to be counted against any one linear yard is points. Overall fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per 100 yd2 of fabric
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1.2. General Rules for Inspection:
SAM
Some general rules are followed for inspecting a fabric which should be maintained during inspecting a finished or grey fabric. During inspecting a fabric the rules which should be followed is given below:
Only one meter of fabric cannot be penalized more than 4 points. Any defect occurring repeatedly throughout the entire fabric should be marked. Combination of warp and weft defect running in one meter should not be penalized more than 4 points in them. Fabric should always be inspected on face side only if it is not specified for back side inspection.
1.2.1. Points for various Types of Fabric Faults: The points are also different for different types of fault occurring in the fabric. During inspecting a fabric in the Quality Control section of the ECHOTEX Dyehouse the various common faults are pointed as below: Faults Any size Hole White Specks Oil Stain Chemical Spot Water Drop Fly Yarn Slub Rub Mark Rust Stain Yarn Contamination Points 4 points 1 points 1 points 1 points 1 points 1 points 1 points 1 points 1 points 1 points
As the above given faults are commonly found in the Finishing and Knitting Section of the ECHOTEX Dyehouse, so these faults are regularly pointed but other than these type of faults of the fabric, the fabric should be sent to the higher authority or be rejected.
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SAM
1.2.2. Inspection Machine: Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machine. These machines measures rolls of fabric by placing them over the inspection table under adequate light source and rerolled as they leave the table. The amount of fabric rolls passed on the inspection machine is measured by the metering roll on the machine. This inspection machine is either power driven or the inspector pulls the fabric over inspection table. The defect are tracked, marked and recorded on an inspection sheet. Such machine are also equipped with equipments to control the length of the fabric is delivered from the back and also monitor the back side of the fabric. The width of the fabric is most important for manufacture of basis garments.
Inspecting light Metering roller
Figure: QAD grey inspection machine.
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1.3. ECHOTEX Final Inspection report:
Final Inspection Report Work Order: Req.Width: Req. GSM:
SAM
Wa 41 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Inspection By:
Penalty Point Legend

H= Hole OS=Oil Stain CH=Chemical Spot WD=Water Drop FY=Fly Yarn WS=White specks S=Slubs R=Rub Mark RS=Rust Stain Yc=Yarn Contamination IS: Insect Spot
Faulty Appearance
US: Uneven shade,Np= Napes Cr= Crease mark, P=patches, G/H=GSM Hole, HR=Hairy, MS=Machine Stoppage, N/L=Needle line,BR= Barre Mark,CM=Crimple mark,BW=Bowing,DC=Dead Cotton, SN=Snagging/M=Line Mark,P/H=Pin hole
Four Points System:

Size of Defect Penalty 0-3" 1 Points 3-6 2 Points 6-9 3 Points Over 9 inch 4 Points
Acceptance Calculation
Factor=Roll Yardage (A) =Total Point, Roll (B) Formula=B/A =Points/100 Yards < 40 PTSA 41-60 PTSB 61-80 PTSC 80 Above Reject
M/C DIA XGG
Grey Weight:
Yarn Lot:
Reject Qty:
Shift:
Checked By: Shade: Inspect: Dryer/Comp/Stenter Test Report: Inspection Time:
Buyer:.Batch:Shade:Style:..Date : Pts/Mt Clas Rol 1- 11 21 31 41 51 61 71 81 91- A/Di A/GS 1 10 a M r s l 0 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 0
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1.4. Grey Inspection report:
Roll Insp Grey Dia M/C DiaX GG Finished GSM Finished Dia Grey GSM/ St.Length
1-10 1120 2130 3140 4150 5160 6170 7180 8190 91100
SAM
Pts/ Mtr
Roll Wt.
Cl as s
Faulty Appearance GSM Hole=GH, Lycra out=LY, Barre mark=BM ,Drop stitch=DS, Crease mark= CR, Sinker mark=SM, Yarn Conta=CY, Fly conta=FC, Slubs=S, Oil spots=OS, Press off=PO, Wrong design=WD, Oil line=OL, Uneven yarn=UY, Naps=N, Thick/Thin=T/T
Four Point System Size of defect Penalty 0-3 >3-6 >6-9 >9 Hole <1 Hole <1 1 Points 2 Points 3 Points 4 Points 2 Points 4 Points
Acceptable Calculation Up to 40 point = A 41 to 60 point = B 61 to 80 point = C Above = Rejected
Formula Point =
(
Industrial Training
SAM
1.5. Faults of fabric during Knitting: The ECHOTEX has a renowned inspection section where not only internally knitted fabric faults are detected but also the fabrics knitted in other industries are also inspected. In the inspection section there are various faults found of the knitted fabrics. Some of the faults found during knitting are discussed below: Hole. Lycra out. Lycra drop. Barre mark. Needle mark. Drop stitch. Crease mark. Sinker mark. Yarn contamination. Fly contamination. Slub. Oil spot. Press off. Wrong design. Oil line. Miss yarn. Uneven yarn. Naps. Thick and Thin. Needle broken. Loop. Stare. Yarn mixed. Patta. Color contamination. Wheel mark. Dirty yarn. 1. Hole: During yarn breakage from yarn passage from the wheel to the feeder if the joining of the yarn is done by normal binding process then hole could be produced in the fabric.
Hole
Causes:
Using old lubricant or knitting oil which has been oxidized. Longer needle latch holding time of the loop. Unwanted sharp objects in the knitting machine.
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If binding of broken yarn is not properly done. Using yarns having knots slubs etc. Using yarns having no moisture. Yarn running in too high tension. If the dial and cylinder does not work together
SAM
Remedies:

2. Lycra out:
Check the lubricants used for oiling the knitting machine. Make sure all the loops are produced at a same speed. Check for any unwanted sharp objects in the machine. Using good quality yarn during knitting. Check the tension of the yarn passage. Check the speed of the running yarn. Check if cylinder and dial of knitting machine is working together.
If a yarn is torn during the passage of lycra yarn from the lycra stand to the feeder or if one of the yarns are missing during passage than lycra out occurs. The lycra out is normally a gap mark present throughout the fabric.
Lycra Out
Causes: If any lycra yarn is missed during knitting. If lycra yarn feeder arrangement is not proper. If lycra yarn tension is not proper. Remedies: Lycra yarn should be passed to the maintaining proper tension Broken ends of the lycra yarn should be immediately fixed. Proper cleaning of the lycra knitting machine should be done.
3. Color contamination: After the production of the fabric if there is presence of another colored yarn then this fault is known as color contamination.
Color Contaminatio n
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SAM
Causes: It consists of single fibre, bunch of fibre or yarn pieces in varying colors. Presence of yarn during knitting having different color. Remedies: It is very difficult to remove. So need to be careful in process. Fly preventive cover can be used. Before knitting of new fabric the machine should be cleaned by applying air flow. 4. Miss yarn:
If a yarn is missed by the needles during fabric loop formation then miss yarn is occurred. This miss tarn is normally caused if any yarn is not passed from the feeder while the yarn passage.
Miss Yarn
Causes: If any yarn is missed during knitting. If yarn feeder arrangement is not proper. If yarn tension is not proper. Remedies: Yarn should be passed to the maintaining proper tension Broken ends of the yarn should be immediately fixed. Proper cleaning of the knitting machine should be done. 5. Wrong Design:
If an unwanted design is occurred with the buyer specified design in the fabric then it is known as wrong design. Normally this fault is caused while knitting dyed yarns as a result if there is a cause of miss yarn or extra yarn supplied to the knitted fabric.
Wrong Design
Causes: If the number of feeders for any individual yarn is not proper. If the produced stripe is not occurred according to measurement. 6. Thick and Thin:
When thick or thin place is found in the fabric design then this sort of fabric faults are normally known as thick and thin. Generally thick and thin occurs if there is a passage of yarn having uneven thickness.
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SAM
Thick Place
Causes: Thick and thin places in the yarn. Fabric takes up too weak. Irregular present of slubs of yarn. Remedies: Controlling take-up speed in the knitting machine. Checking yarn before using for knitting. Checking thickness regularity of slubs yarn. 7. Fly contamination: During knitting if any dirt, dust or any foreign particles pass into the yarn or the fabric and the fabric is knitted with the fabric then that dirt or dust on the knitted fabric is called fly contamination. 8. Yarn mixture: If there is a presence of another yarn in the knitted fabric which is not identical to the yarns of the knitted fabric then it is called yarn mixture. This fault is normally seen while dyed yarn knitting or if a yarn dyed fabric is knitted previously on the knitting machine. 9. Slub: If any uneven yarn is used during knitting of the fabrics which has both thick and thin place in the yarn then the thick places found in the knitted fabric is called slub.
Slub yarn
Causes:
Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.
Remedies
10. Loop: By using good yarn quality. Checking the supply yarn of the store. Make sure that all the yarn packages are of same count and particular lot.
Industrial Training
SAM
If the needle is unable to catch the yarn in the needle latch then there occurs a gapping effect in the fabric similar to the effect of needle broken but in this case instead of yarn breakage a gapping effect in the fabric. 11. Wheel mark: At the time of yarn passage from the wheel if the wheel is misplaced from its actual position then a mark is produced throughout the fabric which is called wheel mark. 12. Needle broken: Needle broken is normally caused when the needle is broken which causes tear in a particular place of the fabric in the loops of that certain place.
Needle Broken
Causes: Due to dirt deposition in needle this problem occurred. This problem also can occur due to yarn tension variation.
13. Drop stitch: If any problem occurs in the latch of the needle while catching the yarn then it could result in drop stitch. If the miss stitch is seen in the fabric in a small area of the fabric then it is called drop stitch.
Drop Stitch
Causes:
Yarn guide properly set. Defective needle latch. Yarn tension is not sufficient or too long stitches Take down to high. Wrong yarn treading. Cylinder dials system too high. Bad take up. Very dry material. Insufficient yarns tension. Broken needle hooks. Yarn feeder wrongly threaded-in.
Industrial Training
Remedies: Precise yarn guide resetting. Needle change. Yarn composition and collier re adjustment. Take down re adjustment. Dial position re adjustment. Yarn threading through the right bore. Use of fabric fault detector.
SAM
14. Oil spot: When small circular oil marks are seen in the knitted fabric then it is called oil marks. Normally oil spots occur during oiling the cylinder from the residual oils remaining in the needle.
Oil Spot
Causes: During lubricating the machine if more needle oil poured on the machine. If excess oil is present on the cylinder and needles of the fabric. Remedies: Carefully using needle oil during oiling the machine. 15. Oil line: Oil line is the vertical oil mark seen throughout the knitted fabric. Normally if more oiling is done to a particular cam then oil marks occur. 16. Barre mark: Barre mark is caused due to excess tension on the yarn while knitting the fabric. This excess tension can whether cause elongation or shrinkage of the fabric. 17. Stare: Stare is caused on the fabric when the needle latch is unable to grab the yarn and produces small hole like star marks on the fabric.
Pin Stare Mark
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SAM
Causes: When needle latch is bent due to long time usage, then this problem occurred. Remedies: Needle must be changed. 18. Sinker mark: Sinker mark is caused when the sinker is broken or it contains dirt on the sinker then the sinker mark is seen on the fabric. This sinker mark is slightly larger than the needle mark.
Sinker Mark
Causes:
Sinker not clean. Defected or broken sinker. Incorrect depth of sinker which causes the stitch length to change while the needle knocks over during its movement towards rest position. When dirts deposited in sinker, it is raised and causes the faults.
Remedies:
Sinker has to be clean. It should be checked that the sinker having correct thickness and depth. Replacement of defected sinkers.
19. Lycra drop: Lycra drop is similar to Lycra out but in this case the gap mark in the fabric takes a small area or space in the fabric, but not throughout the fabric.
Lycra Drop
Causes: If any lycra yarn is missed during knitting. If lycra yarn feeder arrangement is not proper. If lycra yarn tension is not proper.
Industrial Training
Remedies: Lycra yarn should be passed to the maintaining proper tension Broken ends of the lycra yarn should be immediately fixed. Proper cleaning of the lycra knitting machine should be done.
SAM
20. Yarn contamination: Presence of any other foreign yarn in the knitted fabric is known as yarn contamination. 21. Patta: Patta is caused when the yarn tension in the fabric is not proper, which causes the fabric to either shrink or expand unexpectedly to a particular place of the fabric.
22. Wheel free: If the tension of the yarn passage is less than the yarn passage tension of the wheel then it causes wheel free problem on the knitted fabric. 23. Dirty yarn: If the yarn used for knitting the fabric is dirty then the fault occurred in the fabric is that the fabric has a dirty appearance which is called dirty yarn. 24. Press off: When there is a larger hole in the fabric which causes the loops of the knitted fabric to tear up inside the fabric is known as press off.
Pressoff
Causes:
Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder. Yarn package winding faults, poor package build-up. Fibre fly block the yarn guides, feeders etc.
Remedies:
25. Uneven yarn: Uneven yarn is responsible for various fabric faults. Such as, slub, needle broken, thick thin, naps, etc.
Carefully feeding the yarn by the feeder. Carefully yarn winding. Choosing the yarn very carefully.
Industrial Training
SAM
Uneven Yarn
26. Naps: If there are thick places present in the yarn then that is known as naps.
1.6. Faults of fabric after dyeing: In the Finishing section of ECHOTEX Dyehouse there is another inspection section where all the finished fabrics are regularly inspected before reaching the garments section and the also various corrective actions are taken for the proper buyer recommended appearance of the finished fabric. The faults which are mainly occurred in the finishing section of the dyehouse are discussed below: Hole Oil Stain Chemical Spot Water Drop Fly Yarn White specks Slubs Rub Mark Rust Stain Yarn Contamination Insect Spot Uneven shade Napes Crease mark Patches GSM Hole Hairy Machine Stoppage Needle line Barre Mark Crimple mark Bowing Dead Cotton Snagging Line Mark Pin hole
Industrial Training
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1. Rust Stain: The stain mark which is caused by excess heat of the burners while passing through the conveyer of the machines.
Rust Stain
Causes: During passing the fabric through the Stenter or dryer machine if the temperature of dyeing the fabric is too high. If the blower of the tenter frame is unable to spread the fire coming from the nozzle throughout the fabric. Remedies: The speed and temperature of the tenter frame should be properly maintained while passing the fabric through the tenter frame. Make sure the blower has the capability to pass the hot air uniformly throughout the fabric. 2. Chemical Stain: The stain mark which is caused by improper application of finishing chemicals and also due to improper dissolving of the finishing chemicals.
Chemical Stain
Causes:
The knitting industry unlike weaving uses oil to lubricate machinery where the fabric is being produced. Such oil mixed with dust and metallic powder can, cause stain on the fabric being knitted.
Remedies:
Control of the oil itself, by applying it in minimum quantities and delivering it continuously so that present in the fabric but does not show up in any build up of solid material. Using oils that are readily mixed with water so called securable or clean oils. The majority of knitted piece goods are wet finished before cutting and therefore little oil staining will remain in finished fabric.
Industrial Training
SAM
On stitch shaped garments tight control is needed as they are not wet finished stain are dealt with during examination by solvent based spotting guns.
3. Oil Stain: The stain mark which is caused by applying needle oil in the knitting machine.
Oil Spot
Causes: Storage condition. Core pH before drying. Packing used for while goods free from BHT [Butyl hydroxyl toluene]. Remedies: Packing material used for while goods free atmospheric pollutants like oxides and dimity etc. Packing material free from phenolic antioxidant. While good core pH should be 6.0-6.5. 4. Fly Yarn: Fly yarn is also a knitting fault which is caused due to presence of dust particles on the supplied yarn while knitting the fabric.
Fly Contamination
Causes: It is caused if flying dust particles or colored yarn knitted with the fabric. By using dirty yarn. Remedies: By using good quality yarn. Proper cleaning of the machine before knitting.
5. Dead Cotton: The presence of dead cotton fibers in the fabric causes very small white spots on the fabric surface which occurs as there is no dye absorbency in the dead fiber contained areas of the fabric.
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SAM
Dead Cotton
Causes: Poor cotton quality. More abrasion during process. Remedies: Try to maximize the abrasion during process. Use acid cellulose softener. 6. Uneven Shade: If color difference or shade difference is seen on the fabric surface then the color or shade of the fabric is called uneven shade.
Uneven Shade of Remazol Reactive dyes
Causes: Very rapid addition of dyes and chemicals. Uneven pretreatments (Scouring, Bleaching, Desizing). Lack control of dyeing machine like Machine speed. Temperature. Dosing time. Circulation pump. Plating device. Material: Liquor ratio. Remedies: Check addition of dyes and chemicals at a steadily increasing rate. Proper pretreatments. Proper control of dyeing machine. Check the rope turn over time. Verify rope speed and chamber loading calculations. 7. White Specks: White specks are the white mark seen on the fabric surface when it is passed through the rollers as a result of presence of unwanted dust particles on the fabric surface. 8. Insect Spot: During storing the fabric if dead insects are found on the fabric which causes mark on the fabric surface then that is called insect spot.
Industrial Training
SAM
9. Rub Mark: Rub mark has a white mark appearance which is caused due to passage through the squeezer machine or other rollers in the finishing machine as a result of excess friction. 10. Yellow Spot: If there is yellowish color seen on a particular area of the dyed, bleached or softener treated fabric then that specific spot on the fabric surface is termed as Yellow spot.
Yellowish spot in the fabric
Causes:
Storage condition. Core pH before drying. Packing used for while goods free from BHT [Butyl hydroxyl toluene].
Remedies: Packing material used for while goods free atmospheric pollutants like oxides and dimity etc. Packing material free from phenolic antioxidant. While good core pH should be 6.0-6.5.
11. Dia Mark: During the passage of the knitted fabric through the take down roller the fabric passes over two pointed blades causing needle mark at one side and on the other side there is also a line mark produced which is called the Dia mark.
Dia Mark
Causes:
During passing the fabric through the spreader of the circular knitting machine if the fabric passes at an irregular tension. If the spreader has contains very sharp blades on both sides the needle mark and dia mark both are caused.
Remedies:
To avoid dia mark the fabric should be carefully passed through the spreader. The tension of take down mechanism of take down rollers should be properly maintained.
Industrial Training
SAM
12. Crease Mark: The presences of unwanted line marks on the surface of the fabric due to presence of mechanical pressure during fabric processing are called crease marks.
Crease mark in the fabric
Causes:
More cycle time. Faulty plaiting device. Incorrect set bowed expender. Variation of heating and cooling rate. Improper fabric movement.
Remedies:
Anti-creasing agent are used to avoid crease mark problem.
13. Crample mark: Crush mark or crample mark is mainly caused during reeling the fabric into the Dyebath which a result of unbalanced speed of loading to the dye bath is reeling. Crample mark can also be caused during passing the fabric through the finishing machines due to the uneven pressure of the rollers.
Crample mark in the fabric
Causes: Lower fabric speed. Lower liquid ratio. Higher rate of cooling. Remedies: Running with a higher fabric speed. Increasing the liquor ratio. A slower rate of cooling. 14. Pin Hole: When small holes are seen in the fabric after dyeing which is occurred in the dye bath or in the finishing section is called pin hole damage.
Industrial Training
SAM
Pin Hole Damage
Causes:
Oxidation of the knitting oil/lubricant on the fabric stored for a long duration. Presence of heavy metal ions in peroxide bath. Presence of sharp metallic part in some parts in machine.
Remedies:
Check presence of any sharp object in machine. Provide magnetic filter in water or steam line. Provide magnetic filter in water or steam. Check if the used water for dyeing is properly softened.
15. GSM Hole: The hole which is caused by cutting the fabric with GSM cutter while measuring the GSM of the fabric.
GSM Hole
Causes:
Continuous cutting of the fabric using GSM cutter for measuring GSM.
Remedies:
For GSM measuring applying calculated value and indentifying the whole weight and length to measure GSM.
16. Bowing: If spirality occurs in the design or loop construction towards length and width direction of the fabric then it is called bowing.
Bowing
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SAM
Causes: This structure consist of plain and lacost design where stitch where stitch length for tuck stitch is kept same as all knit loops As a result waviness has produced in lacost part. Remedies: Different SL for tuck stitch must be kept by adjusting VDQ pulley. 17. Snags: Snags mainly occur while processing filament yarns. The tendency towards snagging can be reduced by using yarns with a coarser single filament count, lesser crimp elasticity and higher twist. During knitting all mechanical influences, caused by rough surfaces on yarn guide elements, yarn feeders, needles, fabric take-up, etc. have to be avoided. Even after knitting some snags can appear especially during fabric setting, if its storage and further processing has not been undertaken carefully.
Industrial Training
1.7. Corrective Actions taken for removing faults:
SAM Corrective Recipe

Anti Staining: 1gm/l Oxalic Acid: 3gm/l Temperature Time : 800C 15min Wetting Agent & Detergent: 0.5gm/l Temperature Time : 900C 10min Half Bleach Caustic: 2gm/l Hydrogen Peroxide: 2gm/l Optical Brightening Agent: 0.1gm/l Temperature Time : 950C 30min Half Bleach Caustic: 2gm/l Hydrogen Peroxide: 2gm/l Optical Brightening Agent: 0.1gm/l Temperature Time : 950C 30min Anti Staining: 1gm/l Temperature Time : 900C 15min Anti Staining: 1gm/l Oxalic Acid: 3gm/l Temperature Time : 800C 15min Soaping Agent(Dekol SN): 0.5gm/l Temperature Time : 650C 15min Wetting Agent & Detergent: 0.5gm/l Acid: 3gm/l Temperature Time : 900C 10min Anti Staining: 1gm/l Temperature Time : 900C 15min Soaping Agent: 0.5gm/l Temperature Time : 650C 15min Enzyme: 1% of Fabric weight Temperature Time : 550C 40min Bleaching Temperature Time : 950C 30min Cotton Dyeing Temperature Time : (600C -800C) 30min Polyester Dyeing Temperature Time : 1300C 30min
Fabric Fault
Chemical Stain
Corrective Action
Anti Staining
Yellow Spot
Washing
Chemical Stain on White Fabric
Bleaching
Yellow Spot on White Fabric
Bleaching
Oil Stain Band Line
Anti Staining Anti Staining
Line Mark Crease Mark Softener Spot
Washing Anti Creasing Washing
Dirty Spot Rub Mark Hairiness Uneven Shade
Anti Staining Washing Enzymatic Treatment Bleach & Re-dye
Industrial Training
1.8. Flow Chart of Quality Control of Grey Fabrics:
SAM
Fabric inspection
On-line inspection
Off-line inspection
Outside
Inside
Outside production
Inside production
Fabric rolls checkfabric quality
Every machine checkfabric quality
Check with yarn count, Stitch length, Dia & Gauge
Fabric inspection 100%Fabric quality
First Bulk (first roll)
Pass
Fail
Approved Sample (Solid & Dyed Yarn)
Grey Store
100% inspection for quality fabric Approval card (Knitting) Pass Fail Approval card (Finishing)
Grey Store
Reject -immediately inform to executiveOutside factory
Pass
Fail
Grey Store
Reject -immediately inform to executiveOutside factory
Industrial Training
1.9. Flow Chart of Quality Control of Dyed and Finished Fabrics:
SAM
Receiving fabric from Finishing Section Matching Fabric Shade in Light box
Shade OK
Shade not OK Passed to Dyeing & Finishing Section
Separating from one roll to another Determining the Fabric Faults Visually and by Machine Calculating the Fabric Faults
Fabric not OK Determining if the Fabric is treatable
Fabric OK Passed to the Storage Section
Pass to Dyeing & Finishing Section for Re-processing
Untreatable Rejected
Industrial Training
SAM
EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Layout of ETP Plant
Screen Chamber
Process House
Equalization Tank Aerobic digester Pump Maintenance Office
Calcium Hydroxide Mixing Tank Ferrous Sulphate Mixing Tank Polymer Mixing Tank
Inclined Plate Clarifier
Flocculation Tank
Ozone Supply Tank
Sequencing Batch Reactor
Intermediate Tank
Industrial Training
SAM
10. Effluent Treatment Plant: Effluent treatment is a must in the textile industry because the water that comes out after dyeing is harmful for the environment. Effluent treatment is a process by which the water passed from the textile Industry which contains various pollutants is cured. The Effluent treatment process is briefly discussed below: 10.1. Pollutants present in Textile Industry: Various types of pollutants are present in textile industries which are responsible for the faults caused in the processes. These pollutants are discussed below: a) Color: The presence of color in the waste water is one of the main problems in the textile industry. Most of the colors are stable and has no effect of light or oxidizing agent. These colors cannot be easily degraded by conventional methods of treatment. b) Dissolved Solids: Dissolved solids are also one of the important causes of water pollution. It is a critical parameter of the effluent present in the textile industry. Use of common salt and glauber salt etc. in textile processing increases the amount of total dissolved solids (TDS). Disposal of high amount of TDS can lead to increase of TDS in ground and surface water. It is also harmful for agricultural purpose. c) Toxic Metals: Waste water of textiles is not free from metal contents. There are mainly two sources of metals. Firstly, the metals may come as impurity with the chemicals used during processing such as caustic soda, sodium carbonate and salts. For instance, caustic soda may contain mercury if produced using mercury cell processes. Secondly, the source of metal could be dye stuffs like metalized mordent dyes. The metal complex dyes are mostly based on chromium. d) Residual Chlorine: The use of chlorine compounds in textile processing, residual chlorine is found in the waste stream. The waste water (if disposed without treatment) depletes dissolved oxygen in the receiving water body and as such aquatic life gets affected. Residual chlorine may also react with other compounds in the waste water stream to form toxic substances. e) Other Effluents: Textile effluents are often contaminated with non-biodegradable organics termed as refractory materials. Detergents are typical example of such materials. The presence of these chemicals results in high chemical oxygen demand (COD) value of the effluent. Organic pollutants, which originate from organic compounds of dye stuffs, acids, sizing materials, enzymes, tallow etc. are also found in textile effluent, such impurities are reflected in the analysis of bio-
Industrial Training
SAM
chemical oxygen demand (BOD) and COD. These pollutants are controlled by use of biological treatment processes. In many textile units, particularly engaged in synthetic processing, low BOD/COD ratio of effluent is observed which makes even biological treatment not a ready proposition. The waste water of cotton based textile units is usually alkaline, whereas synthetic and woolen fabric processing generates acidic effluent.
10.2. Flow Description: The Effluent Treatment Plant of ECHOTEX has capacity of 1500 m3/day. Treatment processes are maintained by three steps which are given below: a) Physical/ Mechanical step: 1. Screen Chamber. 2. Equalization/ Homogenous process. 3. Clarifying process (2 times). 4. Intermediate period. 5. Filter press. b) Chemical treatment step: 1. Ozonation by Ozonator (2 times). 2. Flocculation/ Coagulant process (2 times). 3. Neutralization process. c) Biological treatment step: 1. Sequencing Batch Reactor (SBR).
Industrial Training
10.3. Process Details:
SAM
10.3.1. Screen Chamber: There are two types of screen chambers for screening system and removing the floating dust particles from the wastewater. 1. Manual bar screen. 2. Mechanical screen. 9.3.2. Equalization or Homogenous System: All the effluents reach the equalization tank to make it equal or homogenous by providing air from air blower through coarse type diffuser. Effluents can retain here for about 20-22 hours. 9.3.3. Ozonation System: Ozone is re-circulated along with the effluents for all 24 hours to get the excellent output by removing micro color and add more dissolved oxygen as well as kill anaerobic bacteria which will come along with raw effluent. Ozone gas is continuously produced in the Ozonator machine. 9.3.4. Ozone Generator: Oxygen concentrator collects pure dry oxygen by purging nitrogen from air and sent pure oxygen to the Ozonator. In the Ozonator ozone generation is done by creating high voltage of 8000 volts. 9.3.5. Flocculation System: Coagulant-Flocculants are used for dosing into the Flocculation tank in order to remove the color bond. For example: a) Lime, b) Ferrous Sulphate, c) Polymer, etc. During dosing the reactions which take place in the Flocculation tank is discussed in the following: As only ferrous sulphate cannot be used as a precipitant so lime is also added at the same time to a proper precipitate. When ferrous sulphate is added to the waste water the following reaction occurs: FeSO4.7H2O + Ca (HCO3)2 = Fe (HCO3)2 + CaSO4 + 7H2O. After adding Lime, Fe (HCO3)2 + 2 Ca (OH) 2 = Fe (OH) 2 + 2 CaCO3 + 2 H2O. The ferrous hydroxide can be oxidized and convert to ferric hydroxide, the desired final form caused by dissolving oxygen into the wastewater. The reaction follows the following procedure: Fe (OH) 2 + O2 + H2O = Fe (OH) 3. The insoluble ferric hydroxide is formed as a bulky, gelatinous floc.
Industrial Training
SAM
9.3.6. Inclined Plate Clarifier (IPC)/ Clarifying System: Contains both solid and liquid parts and is achieved by breaking color and separating color bonds. 9.3.7. Neutralization System: Raw effluent pH is 9.5-11, so it is neutralized by dosing Hydrochloric Acid (HCl). Ideal pH for maintaining the Biological process should range within 6.5-8.5. 9.3.8. Sequencing Batch Reactor (SBR)/ Biological System: This is the biological treatment process where live micro-organisms are nourished. Bacteria are populated in microbial process. These microorganisms eat those effluents and the remaining color and also remove Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) and Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD). ETP plant is continuously operated for 24 hours to ensure that the bacteria are provided with sufficient food (i.e. waste water) and oxygen to keep them alive. Like other living creatures micro-organisms need a balance diet with source of carbon, nitrogen, phosphorous and sulfur. As from textile wastes have carbon and sulfur (sulphate), so lacking compound nitrogen and phosphorous are adding from outside of urea and di-ammonium phosphate. This SBR digester is maintained through batch wise system. The Sequencing Batch Reactor consists of three chambers and at least 4 batches are maintained per chamber. In the factory, the Mix Liquor Suspended Solids (MLSS) of micro-organism level is checked in regular basis by In-hof-man cone. 9.3.9. Intermediate Tank: This is the buffer zone where treated clear water is preserved before final discharge. 9.3.10. Filter Press & Sludge Disposal: The sludge generated by effluent treatment needs to be further processed of safely. It is the byproduct of the effluent treatment process, produced in the form of solid waste. In fact the production of sludge is a good indicator as to out whether the ETP is running continuously or not. Sludge can be generated at different stages of treatment, including screening, primary settling, chemical precipitation but most will come from the physio-chemical stage of treatment. The sludge collected from different stages has different characteristics and compositions. Despite the differences in the nature of the sludge from each process stage, all the sludge is usually combined and handled together. Solid sludge are collecting here by gravity force from Inclined Plate Clarifier (IPC) to Aerobic Digester (AD tank), after few retention time it is sent to the filter press by submersible pump to make cake from the solid sludge. Solid cake formed sludge are disposed at a fixed place in the factory arena, which is recommended by Department of Environment (DOE) of Bangladesh Government.
Industrial Training
9.4. EFFLUENT & DISCHARGE WATER QUALITY IN ECHOTEX: 9.4.1. FEED EFFLUENT FLOW RATE: 1500m per day/ 24 Hours.
3
SAM
9.4.2. EFFLUENT QUALITY: (Based on combined treatment of Dye Bath and wash water) For designing the Wastewater Treatment Plant following qualities or parameters are strictly maintained: Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) Total Suspended Solid (TSS) Total Dissolved Solid (TDS) Silica (SiO2) pH Oil & Grease : : : : : : : 300-400 mg/l 1000-1200 mg/l 200-300 mg/l 4000-6000 mg/l 10 mg/l 9.5-11 <20 mg/l
9.4.3. DISCHARGE WATER QUALITY: The discharge water quality after discharging from the wastewater treatment plant should be according to the following: Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD) Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) Total Suspended Solid (TSS) Total Dissolved Solid (TDS) change Dissolved Oxygen (DO) pH Oil & Grease Color : : : : 4.5-8.0 mg/l 6.0-8.0 <3 mg/l Clear : : : : <10 mg/l 60-80 mg/l <10 mg/l No significant
The above qualities are continuously achieved by the ETP plant.
Industrial Training
9.5. Flow Chart of the ETP plant:
SAM
Raw Wastewater Mechanical & Manual Screen Equalization Tank Ozone Contact Tank-1 Flocculation Tank-1 Primary Inclined Plate Settler Sequencing Batch Reactor Intermediate Tank Equalization Tank Ozone Contact Tank-2 Flocculation Tank-2 Tertiary Inclined Plate Settler Treated Effluent for Discharge Discharge to Canal Tertiary Sludge Primary Sludge Aerobic Digester Tank Sludge Conditioning Tank Filter Press Sludge Disposal (By Client) Filtrat e Supernata nt
Excess Sludge
Industrial Training
SAM
WATER TREATMENT PLANT

Water Treatment Plant:
The water treatment plant is a vital part of the dyeing section where the supply water of the dyeing floor is treated and cured for proper dyeing. The supply water contains various soluble effluents like dissolved solids, metal compounds and other impurities which can lead to any sort of fabric fault during dyeing the knitted fabrics. The process sequence of the water treatment plant in ECHOTEX Limited textile mill is briefly discussed below: 9. Deep Pump:
The Deep pump is used for extracting water from raw water tank to pass in the dyeing section for the process of fabric dyeing.
10. Raw Water Tank:

Raw water tank is placed 20 feet deep tank where the water needed in the dyeing and finishing process is deposited and by the water pump the water in the tank is extracted.
11. Air Receiver Tank:

Air receiver tank is used for the passage of air from the boiler to the Iron exchanger tank. 12. Vessel: The vessel is where the water from the WTP pump is collected. 13. Iron Exchanger Tank: The metals contained in the water are removed or broken down by applying air from the received from the air receiver tank. 14. Multi Grade Filter: The multi grade filter is used for removing the residual iron contained in the treated water. 15. Activated Carbon Filter: The activated carbon filter is used for removing the remaining metals and other impurities by passing the water flow through rocks of different sizes arranged in different layers of the tank. At first there is a layer of small rocks and next is a layer of medium rocks and finally comes a layer of big rocks. The tank contains a carbon layer in middle.
16. Softener Tank:

The softener tanks contains resin and in the softening tank water softening chemicals are applied for reducing the hardness of the water and making the water flow suitable for fabric dyeing.
17. Soft Water Reserve Tank: The processed soft water is reserved in the soft water reserve tank. 18. Booster Pump:
Booster pump is the pump which extracts the soft water from the soft water reserve tank to the dye house.
Industrial Training
Flow Process of WTP Plant:
SAM
Deep Pump Water Supply Raw Water Tank WTP Pump Air Receiver Tank Vessel Iron Remover Tank Multi Grade Filter Activated Carbon Filter Softener Tank or Filter Soft Water Reserve Tank Booster Pump Dye House

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Industrial Training

2. Yarns Used In ECHOTEX

3. Knitting Section 4. Dyeing Section 5. Finishing Section

6. Dyeing & Finishing Lab

10. Water Treatment Plant

Industrial Attachment work

Chairman Managing Director Administration Director

Executive Director General Manager Asst. General Manager

Senior Quality Control Inspector

Senior Lab Technician

Asst. Production officer

Asst. Production officer

Junior Production officer

Asst. Production officer

Well fair Officer

Lab Asst. Quality Control Trainee

Junior Production officer

Junior Production officer

Junior Production officer

Operator Operator Helper Operator Helper

Entry gate1 Chandra- Gazipur Highway

Industrial Training 3. Layout of Knitting Section: Layout of knitting Floor

Industrial Training 3.1. Knitting:

3.2. Knitting machines used in ECHOTEX knitting section:

2) Single Jersey circular knitting machine:

UNITEX TEXMAC PTE. LIMITED

UNITEX TEXMAC PTE. LIMITED

UNITEX TEXMAC PTE. LIMITED

UNITEX TEXMAC PTE. LIMITED

3.3. Some Parameters of Knitted fabric:

Here, stitch length in mm

3.4. Important Knit Fabric Properties:

3.5. Fabric Quality:

3.6. Fabric Structures:

3.6.1. Knitted fabric structures and cam arrangements:

Cam arrangement Needle Set out KKKK 1 KKKK 2 KKKK 3 KKKK 4

Cam arrangement KKTT T TK K KKTT TTKK

Needle Set out 1 2 3 2

Cam arrangement Needle Set out KKTK 1 TKKK 2 KKTK 3 TKKK 2

Industrial Training 3.7. Knitting action of Single Jersey Machine:

Figure: Knitting action of Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.

Figure: Loop formation by Sinker during Knitting.

Industrial Training 3.8. Knitting action of Double Jersey Machine:

Figure: Knitting action of Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.

Take Down Rollers

Figure: Specification of Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.

Industrial Training 3.10.

Schematic View of Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine:

Take Down Rollers

Figure: Specification of Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine.

Industrial Training 3.11. Functions of various parts of machines:

Figure: A latch needle.

Figure: Knit, Tuck and Miss cam.

Figure: Frontal and back view of a cam box.

Figure: View of a feeder.

Figure: View of a wheel.

Stopper Figure: View of a stopper.

Figure: View of a wheel stand.

Figure: View of a typical S/J cylinder.

Figure: View of a typical Belt pulley.

Figure: View of a typical Magnet.

Figure: View of Take down Roller.

Industrial Training 3.12. GSM Calculation of knitting using GSM cutter: