Preface

Handloom forms a precious part of generational legacy and exemplifies the richness, which has been kept alive by skilled weavers engaged in the ageold tradition of weaving. The weavers with their skillful blending of myths, faiths, symbols and imagery provide their fabric an appealing dynamism. Their strength lies in innovative designs, which cannot be replicated by the powerlooms. The sector gives employment to more than 43 lakh handloom weavers and allied workers and is second only to agriculture sector in terms of providing employment. Handloom is the cultural heritage of our country and hence it is imperative to protect and promote the sector. The office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of Textiles has been implementing various handloom Schemes for development of handlooms and welfare of weavers. These programmes have supported the handlooms by providing yarn at cheaper rates, dyes & chemicals, credit, technology up-gradation, designs, skill up-gradation, marketing etc. Further, continuous efforts in Research & Development have also resulted in reducing drudgery of the handloom weavers and improving their productivity. These technological developments have been implemented in different handloom pockets and results have been documented in terms of improved earnings of the weavers. An attempt has been made to capture these innovations in order to disseminate the information and also to make a case for the need of further such R&D interventions which can help reduce the fatigue and drudgery of the workers. Further, the attempt is to make a case for stronger focus and greater attention to protect and promote the handloom sector. It is expected that the note Handloom, A Rich Heritage of India Needs Protection and Promotion, will be of use and interest to the readers and will generate debate among all stakeholders. The readers may send their own views, comments and suggestions at our email: dchl@nic.in

Monika S.Garg

Handloom, A Rich Heritage of India Needs Protection and Promotion Monika S.Garg,IAS Manoj Jain, B.B. Paul, S. Ulaganathan Dated - 16.7.2012 1. Historical perspective of Handloom The origin of the art of weaving in India is shrouded in the mists of antiquity. Fragments of woven cotton, bone needles and spindles have been discovered at Mohen-jo-daro and Harappa, the ancient seats of the Indus Valley Civilization. Even the Rigveda and the epics of the Mahabharata and the Ramayana dwell upon the craft of weaving at length. Hazrat Khwaja Bahudin Nakshaband Bhokhari Rahamtulla is credited with being the creator of the Nakshband [Design Template for weaving] that completely revolutionized the art of weaving. A hoard of block-printed and resist-dyed fabrics, mainly of Gujarati origin, found in the tombs of Fostat, Egypt, are the proof of large scale export of Indian cotton textiles in medieval times. The above facts are testimony to the threads of handloom that has its roots in prehistoric times in history. With a long tradition of excellence in its craftsmanship, Indian handloom is said to have dated back to the ancient ages. Understanding the way in which handloom sector has kept pace with the changing times is not just a matter of academic curiosity, but it is also indispensable to identify and understand the varied facets of it. 2. Definition of Handloom The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act, 1985 was enacted with a view to protect the livelihood of millions of handloom weavers and rich cultural heritage of Indian Handloom Industry from encroachment of the powerloom and Mill Sector. Handloom has been defined as follows: a) As per the Section 2(b) of The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Protection) Act, 1985, Handloom means any loom, other than powerloom.

b) As per the Bureau of Indian Standards, A hand operated machine for producing cloth by weaving. In some instances, the shedding is performed by foot operation. 3. Weaving on a Handloom Fabric is woven on a handloom by the interlacement of warp, running lengthwise and weft or filling, running width-wise. Two sets of warp threads alternatively raised and lowered to form shed. Through this shed, the shuttle is passed carrying across the weft thread which is beaten against the woven fabric by the movable comb like frame or reed. When the heddle is shifted, the two sets of warp reverse position, binding the weft into the fabric and opening other shed. Weaving involves three Primary Motions i.e. Shedding, Picking and Beating. Shedding motion separates warp threads, according to pattern to allow for weft insertions or picking prior to beating. Picking is the operation wherein after the shed has been formed, the length of weft is inserted through the shed. As soon as, a weft yarn is inserted, the reed pushes or beats up the weft to the fell of the cloth. All the three motions are carried out by the weaver manually for weaving of the fabric by interlacement of warp and weft.
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4. Government support to the Handloom Sector The Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India has been implementing a number of developmental schemes and programmes for the benefit and welfare of the weavers. Apart from the schemes, following measures have been taken by the Government for protection, revival and rejuvenation of the Handloom Sector: i) Reserving 11 handloom articles under The Handlooms (Reservation of Articles for Production) Act 1985, which are not permitted for production on powerlooms. Violation of the Reservation Orders invites penalty. Registration of traditional handloom products under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act 1999. The Act provides legal protection to the Geographical Indications of goods etc., and prevents unauthorized use of these by others. The office of Development Commissioner for Handlooms provides financial

ii)

iii) iv)

assistance to register handloom products under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act 1999. Introduction of the Handloom Mark, which provides a guarantee to the consumer that the products purchased are genuinely made on handlooms. Hank Yarn Obligation: This is a mechanism to ensure adequate availability of hank yarn to handloom weavers at reasonable prices. The existing hank Yarn Packing Notification dated 17.04.2003 promulgated under Essential Commodities Act, 1955 prescribes that every producer of yarn, who packs yarn for civil consumption, shall pack at least 40% of yarn packed for civil consumption in hank form and not less than 80% of the hank yarn packed shall be of counts 80s and below.

5 Importance of the Handloom Sector a) In the Rural Economy: Handloom Sector is decentralized, unorganized and rural based, which plays an important role in the countrys economy. It is one of the largest economic activities, after agriculture. As per the Handloom Census of 2009-10, there are 23.77 lakh handlooms, employing 43.31 lakh handloom weavers and allied workers. The Handloom Sector supports a large section of weavers and allied workers who belong to weaker sections like SC, ST and OBC. The contribution of Handloom Sector to the textile production, employment and export earnings is very significant. b) In Innovation Sector: The strength of handloom lies in innovative designs, which cannot be replicated by the powerlooms. The traditional handloom weaving in India has been kept alive by traditional skilled weavers. It is because of such inimitable designs and distinct weaving techniques that the handloom sector has managed to withstand the onslaught of the powerloom and the mill sector in the country. Some of the excellent work of arts transformed on fabrics by the adept weavers are Kanchivaram of Tamil Nadu, Baluchari and Jamdani of West Bengal, Paithani of Maharashtra, Chanderi and Meheswari of Madhya Pradesh, Muga of Assam, Patola of Gujarat, Kani and Shehtoosh of Kashmir, Tie & Dye Vichitrapuri and Bomkai of Orissa, Bandhini of Rajasthan, Brocades of Varanasi, Balrampuram of Kerala, Pochampally of Andhra Pradesh etc. Besides, handloom has the ability to make wide range of customized products in lesser quantity by frequently changing the designs, colours and textures.

c) In Environment Protection: Handlooms do not cause noise, air or water pollution. They do not consume power, a scarcity these days, especially in rural areas where most of the handlooms are located. Further, handlooms mainly use natural fibres like cotton, wool, silk, jute etc. and therefore, handloom products are ecofriendly. 6. Handloom - India vis--vis World India occupies a prominent place in the world as far as number of handlooms and the varieties of traditional handloom products are concerned. India produces 85% of the handlooms of the world, producing variety of products using all kinds of fibres and yarns of varying counts to produce the widest range of products. The other countries having handlooms include Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh, Norway, West Indies, Indonesia etc., which produce the handloom products in a very limited quantity, mainly for their internal consumption. Indias export of handloom products during 2009-10 was US$ 260 million and increased to US $ 365 million in 2010-11, recording a growth of 38%. The biggest destination of Indias export of handloom products is the USA followed by the EU. 7. Handloom Sector Suffering From Low Productivity and Drudgery In a world increasingly inclined to mechanisation and standardisation, the handloom provides a refreshing change of unique richness of manual skill. The sector represents the countrys traditional art form that has been patronised and promoted since time immemorial. The sector reflects not only the traditions of the weaving communities all over India but also the socio-cultural heritage of our entire nation. Therefore, it becomes obligatory on our part to maintain and preserve the cultural rich and cultural heritage of the handlooms by their technological up-gradation so as to improve the productivity and reduce the drudgery of the handloom weavers and also by carrying out the product diversification. In the Handloom Sector, low productivity and drudgery could be due to following reasons: i) Looms structure and designing are not scientifically and ergonomically made. In fact, it varies from place to place, as a result of which more effort is required to operate the loom resulting in excessive fatigue.

ii)

Accessories like reed, heald, shuttle, pirn etc. which are used during weaving are not of appropriate quality in most cases, resulting in poor quality of fabric, less efficiency of the loom and more fatigue of the weaver. iii) Lack of dissemination of technological interventions to the handloom weavers iv) Reluctance to adopt appropriate technology because of belief in age old traditional techniques they are used to. In order to increase production of fabrics on handloom, which have unique characteristics with sophisticated designs and finish, innovations and improvisation shall be necessary. Unless the base is sustained and strengthened, its quintessential products cannot be augmented. 8. First Step towards Technological Up-gradation: Flying Shuttle

Initially, handloom weavers could only weave a cloth as wide as their armspan. If cloth needed to be wider, two people would do the task (often this would be an adult with a child). John Kay patented the Flying Shuttle in 1733. The weaver held a picking stick that was attached by cords to a device at both ends of the shed. With a flick of the wrist, one cord was pulled and the shuttle was propelled through the shed to the other end with considerable force, speed and efficiency. A flick in the opposite direction and the shuttle was propelled back. A single weaver had control of this motion but the flying shuttle could weave much wider fabric than an arms length at much greater speeds than had been achieved with the hand thrown shuttle. The flying shuttle was one of the key developments in weaving, the whole picking motion no longer relied on manual skill. (Source: Wikipedia) 9. Technological up-gradation of handlooms Further Innovations As a part of the developmental activities, various technological interventions have been implemented in different handloom pockets of the country. However, these interventions still need to be disseminated and implemented in phased manner to improve the productivity and reduce fatigue to the weavers so as to improve the earnings of the weavers. This includes following technological interventions: a) b) providing pneumatic jacquard system and motorized jacquard on the existing handloom so as reduce fatigue and improve productivity, providing take-up & let off motions on the existing handloom so as reduce fatigue and improve productivity and efficiency by 15%.

c)

using multiple box motion for continuous weaving of two different kinds of weft, thereby reducing fatigue and improving efficiency by more than 20%. using of SPS Korvoi sley for weaving solid border instead normal sley, especially for silk sari, resulting in more than 50% efficiency and reduces fatigue. using Catch cord system for weaving solid border sari, especially for cotton sari, thereby increasing efficiency by more than 100% and reduces fatigue. using multiple buti weaving sley for weaving butis gives 200-300% more efficiency and reduces fatigue. using Roller temple in place of wooden/bamboo temple will add 5% more ufficiency and reduce fatigue. using improved frame loom fitted with take up, let off motion, fly wheel, roller temple, multiple box motion etc increases more than 50% efficiency and reduces fatigue. Twin cloth weaving mechanism for weaving mats, stoles etc of narrow width having clear selvedges on both sides increases efficiency by more than 150%. providing jacquard on the existing handloom so as to weave any intricate design. providing dobby on the existing handloom so as to weave geometrical designs. providing healds, reeds, bobbins, shuttles, harness etc. to improve efficiency and the quality of the products. providing warp beam and fabric beam on the existing handloom so as to improve productivity etc. Photographs of some of the interventions are enclosed. Besides above, handlooms like Pedal Loom, Tara Loom etc. are also in use in different handloom pockets for increased productivity and reduced drudgery to the handloom weavers.

d)

e) f) i) j)

k)

l) m) n) o)

10. Suggested interventions for Up-gradation of handlooms and for reducing drudgery of handloom weavers In order to sustain the handloom sector, it is essential to put in continuous efforts to upgrade the handlooms and to improve the productivity and reduce the

fatigue so that the weavers earnings are improved. Scientific advancement and technology are not only an integral part of industry but also major determinants of competitiveness. Technological change can create new possibilities for the design development, production process, packaging, distribution, it is the precursor to strategic innovation. For a meaningful intervention for technology change, it is important to understand the prevailing level of technology: Product technology in terms of equipments and machinery. Process technology in terms of techniques of production, usage of machinery, equipment and processing of raw material or finished goods and Human skill to deploy technology.

The need of the hour is to focus on vital areas concerning improvements and innovations in process and skill level which can bring about major changes in the way things are done. It is sometimes forgotten that the handloom sector thrives totally on the skill of the weaver. It is also forgotten that it is the manual labour involved in the process of hand weaving. Any change that requires extra labour or which develops quick fatigue to the weaver will be rejected. But positive Interventions in these areas would result in substantial savings in human effort, time, energy and other valuable resources. 11. Dissemination of technological interventions Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of Textiles has been disseminating various technological interventions through different ongoing programmes. Some of the components have been provided to the beneficiaries of Cluster Development Programme and Group Approach Projects. Efforts are also made to popularise them through Design Exhibitionscum-Dyeing Workshops, Awareness Programmes, Training Programmes organized through Weavers Service Centres. As a result, a number of these interventions are being used in some handloom pockets, benefitting handloom weavers in terms of increased productivity and reduced drudgery. However, there is still a need for further dissemination and deeper penetration of these innovations. 12. ISSUES TO PONDER i) We may permit each of the primary motions to be seen individually and to be tried for technological improvements by operations research, retaining one among them to be manually driven so that strain levels of the weaver reduce. The handloom could be modified such that one of the three primary motions i.e. shedding, picking and beating is done

manually and the other two may be done mechanically without using electricity. ii) There is a scope to take up Research and Development Projects (R&D) to improve the productivity and reduce drudgery of the handloom in following manner: Standardization of looms and accessories in a scientific way maintaining all ergonomic parameters and keeping in mind the products that will be woven on it. Product development and diversification activities may be undertaken on a large scale to suit the customer requirements, both in domestic and international markets. Non-conventional products like tie, belt, stole, scarf, bags, headbands, pouches, and other accessories, made-ups, home furnishings etc. may be introduced in a big way, apart from conventional products like saree, dhoti etc.

iii)

There is a need for dissemination of the technological innovations so that their benefits could be reaped by more weavers.

In traditional Handloom sector which is famous for ethic designs and ecofriendly processes, the challenge is to introduce technology to enlarge the production base and up-grade the process without tampering the Unique Selling Propositions (USP), the distinctive features and the emotional aspect.

Photographs of the technological interventions on handlooms

Improved frame loom

Loom with take-up motion

Loom with fly wheel

Twin cloth Loom

Multiple box Loom

Multiple buta weaving sley

Korvoi sley (left side)

Korvoi sley (right side)

Annexure -I S.No. Name of Officer-InCharge, Weavers Service Centre/Indian Institute of Handloom Technology Sh. D.R.Gupta Director WeaversService Centre C-I-B, Rajaji Bhawan, Besant Nagar CHENNAI-600090 Sh. Vishesh Nautiyal, Dy. Director, Weavers Service Centre, Arulnagar (adjacent to Machavaram Police Station) VIJAYAWADA520008 Sh. P.K.Jain, Dy. Director Weavers Service Centre IIIrd Floor, Chenatha Bhawan, Nampalli, HYDERABAD-500001 Sh. B.B.Paul Director Weavers Service Centre Weavers Colony, Bharat Nagar DELHI-110052 Sh. Hira Lal, Asstt. Director, Weavers Service Centre Office telephone No. Fax No. e. mail

1.

04424465015 24918655 (O) 24916707 24917964 (O) 24917496 24461951 (O)

wscchnai@md5.vsnl.net.in wscszo@tn.nic.in wscchennai@yahoo.co.in

2.

08662492213 (O) 2490916

24922132 491153

awscvijayawada@ymail.com

3.

04024730668 24603637 (O) 24656048 24614918

wschyd@hd2.dot.net.in

4.

01127307560 27303793 (O) 27301002 27302999 (O) 27304012

wscdelhi@gmail.com

5.

05422203834 (O)

2203834

wscvns@yahoo.com wscv-var@sify.com

S.No.

Name of Officer-InCharge, Weavers Service Centre/Indian Institute of Handloom Technology Chowkaghat VARANASI-221002

Office telephone No.

Fax No.

e. mail

2207685 (O)

officerinchargevs@dataone.in

6.

Sh. S.V.Mathur, 0731Dy. Director 2420545 (O) Weavers Service Centre F-4, Industrial Estate, 2421501 (O) Polo Ground, INDORE-452015 Sh. S.K.Rohilla. 0542Sr. Lecturer 2203833(O) Indian Institute of 2208329 (O) Handloom Technology, Chowkaghat VARANASI-221002 Sh. Antao Irwin Josico, 0427Director Indian Institute of 2296943 (O) Handloom Technology, 2295254(O) Manor House, Foulks Compund SALEM-636001

2420545, 2420723

wscindore@indiatimes.com

wscindore@bsnl.com

7.

2203833 2208692

iiht_vns@sify.com

8.

2295254

iiht-salem@eth.net