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7) Time to get the wiring out of the way! Its pretty idiot proof stuff.

All the plugs are

colour coded but none the less its good practice to take a reference pic in case it all
goes pear shapep. Simply unplug it all and move the looms off to the side. I just
popped them behind one of the tank mounting lugs to keep em out of the way.
8) Next up is to drain the coolant. On the left engine cover, undo the 5 bolts. A 10mm
and 8mm socket gets the job done. Dont forget to pop off the gearshift lever.
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Then undo the drain bolt and remove the radiator cap and drain it all out.
9) With that done the thermostat is the next piece to come out. With two 10mm
wrenches undo its mounting bolts. Also undo the bolt with the grounding wire on it
(10mm socket) and take all 3 coolant hoses off.
With a bit of jiggling it'll fit out the right hand side of the bike.
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12) Now there's plenty of room to get the job done so we can get down to business ;)
The cam cover is held on with 8x giant bolts. So undo them in the standard diagonal
pattern so you dont warp the cover then place it aside. It may need a tap or two with a
rubber mallet to knock the seal loose. Its also a rather snug fit on the two coolant
'nozzles' so keep that in mind as your removing it.
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14) With the cams in this position the intake and exhaust valves for cylinder 1 (the left
most cylinder), the intake valves of cylinder 2, and the exhaust for cylinder 3 can now
be checked for clearance.
You just slide the feeler gauge in between the bottom of the cam lobe and the shim
bucket and move it back and forth. There should be a slight resistance. Read the value
on the feeler gauge and this gives you your clearance.
The service limits are .17 to .27mm for the intake and .2 to .3mm on the exhaust side.
Thankfully mine were all on the tight side so it seems they were dont not that long ago!
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15) With the 22mm spanner rotate the engine 1 revolution until the notches on the
cams are facing inward. Then read the clearance on the remaining valves using the
same method.
16) Hopefully yours are all in spec and you can just go ahead and follow the reverse of
this procedure to put everything back together (dont forget the RTV silicone on the cam
cover gasket) BUT if the clearances are above the limit then there's more work to do..
Depending on which valves need doing you may only have to remove one cam or both.
Im removing both here as i have to take the head off eventually to change the head
gasket. Just keep that in mind.
Undo the 6x bolts holding on each cam holder, undoing them diagonally so you dont
warp anything and set them aside somewhere clean.
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19) With some basic maths you can work out what size shim you need. My local suzuki
dealer stocked the shims but thankfully i didnt need them. The thickness of the existing
one will be printed on top of the shim. However you can measure it if its unreadable.
Work out what thickness shim you need, buy it, then pop it back on top of the valve. as
such (put a bit of oil on it too)
Then put the shim bucket back on too with a little bit of oil as well.
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24) Pop the exhaust cam back in (its the one with the E stamped on the end, Make
sure you install the cam with the notched end to the right of the engine if you are
sitting on it) then make sure the number 1 arrow is flush with the top of the gasket
25) I took this pic wrong and the intake cam is in the wrong position, but ive corrected
it in the picture with a seamless photoshop lmao. Pop the chain over both cams and
count the number of chain pins between the 2 mark on the exhaust cam and 3 mark on
the intake cam. it should be 16 pins. Making sure the exhaust cam 1 mark is pointing
to the gasketed surface the entire time..
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26) Everything should now be in time, make sure you dont move anything!
27) Fill the cam holders with some new engine oil, coating it liberally then pop them
back on, taking note they go on in order (A is left exhaust side D is intake right side)
and torque them to 0.8kg-m - 1.2kg-m doing them up diagonally so you dont warp em.
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28) Now take the cam chain tensioner that came off and wind the screw in the back all
the way in clockwise, the rod should pull in. make sure it moves smooth or you'll have
to replace it.
Wind it all the way clockwise with a flat blade screwdriver and while holding the
screwdriver in place do up the two bolts with a 10mm socket. just a bit more then
finger tight for now and let the screwdriver release the tensioner, it should pop out and
tension the chain. You can check it by pushing the cam chain at the top between the
two sprockets.
Then torque the cam chain tensioner bolts up to 0.6-0.8kg-m
29) fill the oil pockets (where the shim buckets are) with a bit of fresh engine oil. about
50ml is plenty.
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