ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty God to give me strength and ability to complete the industrial training and this report. You have made our life more bountiful. May you name be exalted, honored and glorified.

We would like to thanks the people, who have made a significant contribution to make this report. Their guidelines, suggestions & inspiration helped us a lot.

Now we wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assisted and inspired us in the completion of my training period:

I also express my gratitude to Prof. Dr Md. Saiful Islam ,Head, Department of Textile Engineering, for his support and continuous guidance throughout my long journey in City University and the industrial train

we would like to express our deepest appreciation, sincerest gratuity to our respected Sir Md. Enamul Kabir, our supervisor, for his tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period. Being working with his. we have not only earned valuable knowledge but was also inspired by his innovativeness, which helped enrich our experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.

The authority of the DELTA KNIT COMPOSITE who gave us the opportunity to complete our industrial attachment with great success is remembered with honor over here. Thanks goes to all Engineers, officers, technicians, employees, stuffs, all section incharges for their cordial behavior and help & especially to Engr. Md. Rejaul Karim (DGM, Dyeing). we would like to thank .we are really lucky that we have gotten such a helping hand without whom; this training may not end as it did.
We also again want to express our gratitude and appreciation to Md. Enamul Kabir(Lecturer,) for his encouragement, valuable suggestion, and guidance and decision which able to help to do this Industrial attachment successfully

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT

Textile education cant be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge field. For any technical education practical experience is almost important in association with the theoretical knowledge. Industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skill and attitude of the performer, which improve his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services, university education provide us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skill ness about various processing stages

SUMMERY
This report has arranged on the basis of Industrial Attachment on Wet Processing Technology. Here presenting working procedure of Industrial life. Presenting the procedure and process of different like knitting section, laboratory processing, dyeing section, finishing section, necessary information about utilities WTP, ETP, number of machines section, their specification and maintenance, costing, name of buyers, production capacity, inventory system, marketing activities, clear and correct information about all f these.

DELTA KNIT COMPOSITE is a Knit Composite Garments, having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They have different types of Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A, Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30 Metric tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in DELTA KNIT COMPOSITE are textiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded.

They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from international market like U.K, Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A, Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and top end such as Esprit, M&S, S-Oliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production can not hamper.

2.1 TYPES OF RAW MATERIAL

Yarn:

Carded Yarn Combed Yarn Cotton + Modal Cotton + Viscose

Spun Yarn: 1oo% Polyester

Lycra: CREORA, Made in VIETNAM.

Invista, Made in Singapore Texlon, Made in KOREA Flamingo WinWin

2.2 SOURCE OF YARN FOR KNITTING

Name of the spinning Mills Arif Knit spinning Ltd The Delta spinning Mills Ltd Square yarn Ltd Bengol NFK Textile NRG spinning mill Prime Textile

Location Gazipur Kashimpur, Gazipur Kashimpur, Gazipur Gazipur Gazipur Pagla,Narayangong

RSWM Ltd AA Kader synthetics Shirin spinning Ltd Hyosung Vietnam Malek spinning Sunny International Aman Cotton Fabrics Ltd Otto Spinning Ltd VDM Spinning Ltd Badsha Spinning Mills Ltd Kamal Spinning Mills Ltd Ashoka Spinning Ltd Rusta Spinning Ltd Bextex MTJ Loyed Tex

India Narangong Shreepur, Gazipur South Korea Valuka, Mymensingh

2.3 DIFFERENT YARN AND COUNT FOR KNITTING:

Si/No 01

Yarn Type Carded Yarn

Composition 100% Cotton

Yarn Count 10s, 12s, 16s, 20s, 20/2, 22s, 24s, 26s,28s, 30, 32s, 34s, 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 36s, 40s, 50s, 60s. 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40% 36D, 70D, 72D, 75D, 24s, 26s, 28s,30s, 32s, 34s,

Remark

02

Combed Yarn

100% Cotton

03 04 05

G/M Spun Yarn PC

(Viscose %) 100% Polyester Polyster + Cotton Cotton + Polyester Cotton 50% + Polyester 50% Synthetic

06

CVC

24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 36s, 40s

07

C/M

26s, 28s, 30s,

08 09

Lycra

20D, 40D, 70D,

2.4 SUB CONTACT

Si No 01 02 03 04 05

Buyer Name Viyella Tex Northern BDL ADURY RATUL

Remark Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing

06 07

M.M Knitwear Ltd. Epyllion group

CHAPTER-03

3.1 PROCESS DEFINITION

Knitting is the interlocking or intermeshing of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of stitches, corresponding to the warp in woven cloth, are called WALES; the cross wise rows of stitches, corresponding to the filling in woven cloth, are called COURSES, FILLING KNITS (WEFT KNITS) are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strand of yarn. GAUGE corresponds to the yarn in a woven fabric, and is defined as the number of needles of yarns in half inches of cloth. The higher the gauge, the more compact and finer is the cloth.

3.2 ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION

General Manager (GM)

Knitting Manager

Production officer

Knitting Master

Asst. Knitting Master

Shift Incharge

Floor Incharge

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

3.3 CLASSIFICATION OF KNITTING SECTION

Knitting section is divided into four section

01. Flat knitting section 02. Circular knitting section 03.Fabric inspection section 04. Maintenance & Mechanics

3.3.1 FLAT KNITTING SECTION

Generally collar and cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section there are flat knitting machines of the same type. There specifications of the machines are given below:

M/C (In inch)

M/C GAUGE

M/C BRAND

M/C ORIGIN

No. of

M/C DIA

PRODUCTION CAPACITY
TOTAL NEEDLE

Run time (Hours)

IN COLLAR

IN CUFF

Matsuya

Japan

19

54

14

740X2

450 Pcs

1200Pcs

24

Flying Tiger
SHIMA SEIKI SSF131

Taiwan

54

14

740X2

450 Pcs

1200Pcs

24

Japan

54

14

740X2

450 Pcs

1200Pcs

24

Total

32

Collar: Size: L: 45-50 cm * W:09-10cm * T:3/4 /5 ply, 35-45 pcs /Kg(Depends on count, ply of Yarn and tension of knitting.

Cuff: L: 37-39 * W:3.8-4.0cm * T:2/3/4 ply, 60-70 pcs /Kg(Depends on count, ply of yarn and tension of knitting.

Factor should be considered in production:

There should follow several factor when set the program according to buyer requirements. a) b) c) d) Ply of Yarn Width of Collar or Cuff Stitch Length Type of Collar & Cuff (e.g. - Fancy, Tripping, Solid etc.)

3.3.2 CIRCULAR KNITTING SECTION

There are two types of machines available.These are single jersey and double jersey.

3.3.2.1 LAYOUT OF KNITTING FLOOR

Mayer & CIE

Mayer & CIE 2

Mayer & CIE3

Mayer & CIE 4

Mayer & CIE 5

33
Mayer & CIE 7

Mayer & CIE 6

Mayer & CIE8

Stairs

Chamber

Chamber

Chamber

Chamber

Chamber

Chamber Chamber

Chamber Chamber

Chamber Chamber

Chamber Chamber

Chamber Chamber Chamber

3.3.2.2 MACHINE DESCRIPTION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING SECTION- A

Circular Knitting Machine Single Jersey Double Jersey Total no of M/C

Chamber Chamber

Chamber

Cham ber

: Single Jersey, Double Jersey : 35 : 20 : 55

Chamber Feeder No

Chamber Chamber Prodn/ day (Kgs)

Chamber

Brand+ Machine no.

Origin

Gauge In Inch

Dia In Inch

Fabric Type

Terrot-01 Terrot-02 Terrot-03 Terrot-04 Terrot-05 Terrot-06 Terrot-07 Terrot-08 Terrot-09 Terrot-10 Terrot-11 Terrot-12 Terrot-13 Terrot-14 Terrot-15 Terrot-16 Terrot-17 Terrot-18 Terrot-19 Terrot-20 Terrot-21 Terrot-22 Terrot-23 Terrot-24

Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany

20 24 20 24 20 24 18 18 18 24 18 24 24 28 18 18 18 22 20 24 28 24 20 24

16 16 18 18 18 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 24 24

51 51 57 57 57 64 64 64 64 64 64 64 64 64 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 76 76

Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single Jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single Jersey Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Rib Rib

250 250 270 250 270 300 320 320 320 300 320 300 300 350 300 300 300 320 300 350 380 380 380 400

Terrot-25 Terrot-26 Terrot-27 Terrot-28 Terrot-29 Orizio -1 Orizio -2 Orizio -3 Orizio -4 Orizio -5 Orizio -6 Orizio -7 Orizio -8 Orizio -9 Orizio -10 Orizio -11 Orizio -12 Orizio -13 Orizio -14 Orizio -15 Orizio -16 Orizio -17 Mayer &Cie1

Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Italy Germany

20 24 18 18 24 18 18 24 24 24 28 24 16 18 22 20 24 24 28 28 24 24 20

24 36 34 30 34 36 36 26 26 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30

76 64 60 54 60 72 72 84 84 96 96 96 60 60 96 96 96 96 96 96 96 96 96

Rib Rib Rib Rib Rib Rib Single jersey Single jersey Single jersey Rib Rib Rib Rib Rib Rib Rib Interlock Interlock Interlock Interlock Interlock Single jersey Single jersey

380 300 350 300 320 320 350 380 380 400 420 400 300 320 380 350 400 400 420 420 400 400 400

Mayer &Cie2 Mayer &Cie3 Mayer &Cie4 Mayer &Cie5 Falmak -1

Germany

20

30

96

Single jersey

400

Germany

20

30

96

Single jersey

400

Germany

20

30

62

Single jersey

350

Germany

20

30

62

Single jersey

350

Singapure

24

26

78

Single jersey

300

MACHINE DESCRIPTION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING SECTION- B

INTERING DOOR

FABRIC INSPECTION UNIT-B

P-02

B-01

P-01 N B-02

L-02

L-01

B-05

B-04

B-03

Circular Knitting Machine

: Single Jersey, Double Jersey

Single Jersey Double Jersey Total no of M/C

: 05 : 04 : 09

Brand+ Machine no.

Origin

Gauge In Inch

Dia In Inch

Feeder

Fabric Type

Prodn/ day (Kgs)

Pailung-01 Pailung-02

TAIWAN TAIWAN

18 24

42 42

80 126

D/J D/J

420 420

BASO-01 BASO-02 BASO-03 BASO-04/05 Lisky-01 Lisky-02

TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN TAIWAN

24 24 24 24 20 20

34 34 34 34 32 32

180 102 102 180 102 102

S/J D/J D/J S/J S/J S/J

420 400 400 480 350 350

3.3.3 FABRIC INSPECTION SECTION:

There are three machines in cloth inspection section. Specification of this machine is given below:

SIs No 01 02

No of m/c 01 02

Machine name GUVEN-CELIK

Model no TK-3, Serial no- 3907 UZ-F, AA TPR Ind co.,Ltd

M/C origin Germany Thailand

Speed

zU

32 m/min

REMARKS

Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault of any machine the fix and work under technical in charge. Production officers take account of daily production by running after the supervisor and workers so on.

3.4 PRODUCTION PLANNING AND OPERATIONS OF KNITTING DIVISION

3.4.1 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF KNITTING

Sample fabric

Design analysis

Machine selection

Setting the machine for the specific design

Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

Numbering

3.4.2 DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS:

In every mill, there maintains a sequences in production processing. It is also followed in this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list below:

I. Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it. II. Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the production will be running. III. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc. IV. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM. V. Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about finishing tin due time. VI. Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot. VII. After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in dyeing section.

3.4.3 PRODUCTION PARAMETER 1. Machine Diameter; 2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute); 3. No. of feeds or feeders in use; 4. Machine Gauge; 5. Count of yarn; 6. Required time (M/C running time); 7. Machine running efficiency.

3.4.4 RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN KNITTING PARAMETERS:

1. Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM. 2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease. 3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease. 4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase. 5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase. 6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use. 7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.

3.4.5 PRODUCTION CALCULATION

A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency

RPM No. of Feeder No. of Needle SL(mm ) 3527 .80 Yarn count

B. Production/shift in meter

Course / min . Course / cm RPM No. of Feeder 60 12 Efficiency Course / cm 100

C. Fabric width in meter:

Total no. of wales Wales / cm 100 Total no. of Needles used in knitting Wales / cm 100

3.4.6 CONSIDERABLE POINTS TO PRODUCE KNIT FABRICS

Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These includes-

Type of Fabric or design of Fabric. Finished G.S.M. Yarn count Types of yarn (combed or carded) Diameter of the fabric. Stitch length Color depth.

G.S.M. It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter. Point considered while setting grey GSM:
Enzyme level Color Suided or non- suided

Changing of GSM:
Major control by VDQ pulley. Minor control by stitch length adjustment. Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley

moves

towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will increase.

3.4.7 FACTORS THAT SHOULD BE CHANGED IN CASE OF FABRIC DESIGN ON

Cam setting Set of needle Size of loop shape

3.4.8 EFFECT OF STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR DEPTH: If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller.

3.4.9 METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION:

By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased

1. By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.

2. By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a time. 3. By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased. 4. By imposing automation in the m/c:

a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.

5. By imposing other developments:

a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. c) Using yarn feed control device.

3.5 FAULTS & THEIR CAUSES IN KNITTING

Faults and their causes in knitting:

Hole mark: Causes:

Buckling of the needle latch Buckling the sinker Higher G.S.M

Star mark: Causes:

Buckling of the needle latch. Yarn tension variation during production. Low G.S.M.

Oil spot/Grease spot:

Causes:
Excess oil/Grease use. Jamming of needle & sinker.

Patta: Causes:
Yarn comes from different lot. Faulty cam use in the m/c.

Needle mark: Causes:

Faulty needle use in the m/c.

Sinker mark: Causes:

Faulty sinker use in the m/c

Fabric Shrinkage: Causes:

Yarn twist Knitting tension Fabric G.S.M.

Twist ` G.S.M.

Shrinkage Shrinkage

3.6 END PRODUCTS OF KNITTING MACHINE

3.6.1 END PRODUCTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

Single Jersey M/C: a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h) S/J Plain Single lacoste Double lacoste Single pique Double pique Mini jacquard Fleece Terry Fleece

Interlock M/C: a) Interlock pique b) Eyelet fabric c) Mash fabric d) Honeycomb fabric e) Face/Back rib

Rib M/C: a) 1X1 Rib fabric b) 2X2 Rib fabric c) Separation fabric d) Honeycomb

3.6.2 END PRODUCTS OF FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE

a) Tipping b) Plain

c) Emboss

3.7 DIFFERENT FABRIC GSM AND THEIR YARN COUNT

A.

S/J without lycra -

Fabric G.S.M 110 120 120 130 130 140 140 150 150 160 170 210

Yarn Count 40 S 36 S 36 S - 32 S 32 S 28 S 28 S 26 S 24 S

B. Rib without lycra -

Fabric G.S.M 180 190 190 200 200 215 215 230 230 250 250 300

Yarn Count 36 S - 32 S 30 S 28 S 26 S 24 S 24 S

C. Interlock without lycra -

Fabric G.S.M 200 220 220 230 230 250 250 300

Yarn Count 34 S 32 S 30 S 26 S

D. Lacoste without lycra -

Fabric G.S.M 180 190 190 210 210 230 230 250

Yarn Count 30 S 28 S 26 S 26 S

E. 40D Lycra Rib -

Fabric G.S.M 230 240 240 250 250 280 280 300

Yarn Count 32 S 30 S 26 S 24 S

F. 40D Lycra S/J

Fabric G.S.M 180 190 190 210 210 220 220 240 240 250

Yarn Count 34 S 32 S 30 S 28 S 26 S

3.8 DIFFERENT PARTS OF KNITTING MACHINE

Creel: Creel is used to place the cone. Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn. Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn. VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length. Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn. Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs. Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller. Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine to feed the yarn at specific finger.

3. 9 PICTURES OF KNITTING MACHINARY AT PPC

Fig: Flat knitting machine Fig: Circular Knitting m/c

3.10 QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM OF KNITTING DIVISION

3.10.1 INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM

After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey fabric is described here.

3.10.2 SOME POINTS ARE NEEDED TO MAINTAIN FOR HIGH QUALITY FABRIC

a) b) c) d) e)

Brought good quality yarn. Machines are oiled and greased accordingly. G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately. Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month. Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.

3.10.3 LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL The list of equipments to assure quality:a) Inspection m/c. b) Electronic balance. c) GSM cutter. d) Measuring tape. e) Scissors. f) Indication sticker.

3.10.4 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE

A. Body & rib inspection: All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric. Here four points system is used in inspection system.

B. Collar & cuff inspection:

Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded.

3.10.5 QUALITY STANDARD

PPC maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four points system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at PPC.

Four (4) - Point system for knitting fault inspection:

Knitting fault Slub Any hole Needle/Sinker line Needle breakage(upto 10) Press off Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 3" in length Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 6" in length Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 9" in length Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination above 9" in length

Point 1 4 4 4 4 1 2 3 4

Quality (points per 100 square meters):

Total point X GSM Roll weight X 10

Quality Classification:

1 <20 OK

2 20 - 30 Ask

3 >30 Reject

BATCHING
BATCHING is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order. 3.1 OBJECTS OF BATCHING To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source. Turn the grey fabric if require. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria. Order sheet(received from buyer) Dyeing shade(color or white, light or dark) Machine capacity

 Machine availability Typed of fabric(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. To keep records for every previous dyeing.

3.2 GREY FABRIC INSPECTION

The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of quality control in the gray or finished state, the grading of the fabric is a different task, taking two primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.

The grading has two primary functions: First to classify the fabric according to standard qualities based on the end use customer demands. And

Secondly, to supply information as to the quality actually being produced. The knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of points for defects as follows:

The first quality level The second quality level The third quality level

40 points per 100 linear yards. (40-80) points per 100 linear yards. 80 or more points per 100 linear yards

3.3 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL INSPECTION: All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards mapping will be done on each piece to ensure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard. All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to ensure proper grading. All fabrics must meet specification. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality. The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the lower quality. Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first two inch or the last two inch of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading. Open defects of the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in the grading of fabric. Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be same shade. All defects such as runs that extend more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more than 2 inch. Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.

3.4 GRADING PROCEDURE: All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defects. Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defects. Surface defects over 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defects.

 Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with two points per defects. Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect. Running defect, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack mark, are judgment defects. 3.5 PROPER BATCHING CRITERIA: To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine. To minimize the washing time or preparation time and machine stoppage time. To keep the number of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade. 3.6 BATCHING MANAGEMENT: Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to machine condition or emergency.

3.7 BATCH CALCULATION: Equation for rope length: Dia quantity

Example: Let, machine capacity 500Kg Given Dia Quantity

45 49 51 Calculation: Total quantity, 866+4688+2545=8099 No. of batch, 8099500=17 For 45 Dia, 866 = 54Kg For 49 Dia, 4688 = 290Kg

866 4688 2545

For 51 Dia, 2545 = 158Kg

Equation for collar program:

Dia quantity per batch

3.8 BATCHING PROCESS FOLLOW UP: Recive batch card from grey in charge

Make the priority as per dyeing plan

Take one specific batch card

Read the batch card for own understanding

Check the availability of fabric

Take required quantity of body fabric from ware-house

Make required no. of rope maintaning equal length

Take colllar/cuff as per size, keep the total weight

Distribute the collar/ cuff or rib ineach rope equally ensure equal length

Stitch the fabric

Write down the weight against rollno. In the back side of the batchcard

Write the total weight in batch card

Put signature and date

Fillup the production report form

3.9 MACHINES IN BATCH SECTION: Number of machine Machine name Origin : 01 : Air turning machine : Korea

Number of machine Machine name Origin

: 02 : Air turning machine : Local

CHAPTER - 04

LAB DIP DEVELOPMENT

4.1 DEFINATION:
Lab dip development means the sample which is dyed according to buyers requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production is dyeing planning done.

Lab dips are done to provide a visual aid on how a color will look when it is dyed. Our actual production sample will vary from the lab dip that is provided. Remember that the lab dip is produced in a beaker and is not an actual production run. It is not possible to lab dip enough fabric for a sample cap or garment. When the goods are dyed in a real production run, the conditions are dramatically different from the laboratory. Production will not begin on fabric unless a lab dip is approved or the customer waives the lab dip process. Once a lab dip is approved, we will dye only to the lab dip approved. The original color swatch is no longer the target.

4.2 OBJECTS OF LABDIP: The main objects of lab dip are as follows To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light box spectroflash. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved lab dip(Grade: A B C)

4.3 DEVELOPMENT OF LAB DIP:

Receiving standard swatch

Spectrophotometer reading

Recipe start up software

Start up recipe given

Manual description (Pipatting)

Pot dyeing

Unload

Normal wash

Acid wash

Hot wash

Cold rinsing

Drying

4.4 COLOR MASUREMENT OF STANDARD SAMPLE:

color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. colour measurement can be done by two methods-

Manual method instrumental method In manual method, the standard sample, s colour is measured by comparing it with previously produced samples of different tri chromatic colour combination. The samples with which the colour of standard matched, that sample, s colour recipe is being taken for shade matching. This method accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about colour matching.

The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of colour measurement. Spectrophotometer interfaced with a pc is used for shade matching. This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with a required tri-chromatic colour within the tolerance limit of colour difference. In this way, colour measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.

4.5 PREPARATOIN AND STORAGE OF STOCK DYES AND CHEMICALS:

Preparation of concentration of stock dye solutionNormally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, and 2% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily used.

Preparation of concentration of stock chemical solutionSimilarly 20% salt and 20% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use. 4.6 FORMULA FOR MEASURING DYES AND CHEMICALS IN LABORATORY: The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as followAmount of dyes solution (ml) =

Example In recipe, fabric weight = 5gm Shade % =2%

[if used 0.5% stock solution of dyes ]then, Amount of dye solution (ml) =52/0.5=20ml The amount of chemical solution (ml) is calculated as follow-

ExampleIn recipe, fabric weight =5gm Salt M:L =20g/l =1:8

[If taken 20% stock solution of salt] then, Amount of chemical solution (ml) =4020/1000.20 =4ml

4.7 MACHINERIES FOR LAB DIP:

1. Name of m/c : Spectoflash Temperature: 180C No. of pot : 19 Origin : USA 2. Name of m/c : Spectoflash Temperature: 180C No. of pot : 23 Origin : USA : this includes 4 types of light-TL84 -D65 -Florescent -ultraviolet Pipette used in dyeing laboratory: 0.01, 0.1, .5, 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 ml etc. 4.8 STOKE SOLUTOIN PREPARATION: Shade% 0.0001-0.009 0.01-0.99 1-1.99 2-3.99 4 to more 4.9 FOR PRODUCTION: SHADE% 0.0001-0.01 0.01-0.08 0.08-0.15 0.15-0.08 0.08-1.5 1.5-2 SALT 7 10 12 15 18 20 5 6 7 8 9 10 SODA WATER 1:8 Stock solution% 0.1 0.5 1 2 4 3. Light box

1:7

2-2.5 2.5-3 3-3.5 3.5-4 4-4.5 4.5 and over

30 40 50 60 70 80

13 15 16 18 20 20

1:7

1:6

4.10 PROCEDURE OF LAB DIP For 100% cotton fabric (all in one method): Fabric weight measured by electronic balance. Calculate the recipe. Keep the fabric in pot. Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are taken to the pot by pipeting. Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on types of dyes being used. Program01. For light shade Fixed temperature = 60c Time = 60 min Program02. For dark shade Fixed temperature = 80c Time = 60 min

After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times. Acid wash for neutralization. Then soaping by required soap solution for 10min at 95c. Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with standard.

For polyester cotton blend fabric (all in one method) Fabric weight measured by electric balance. Calculate the recipe for the polyester part. Keep the fabric in the pot. Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and sodium acetate are taken to pot by pipeting. Start the program of dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature are carried out for 30 minute at 130c. After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times. Then reduction clearing by hydrose, caustic and detergent for 20 minute at 70c. Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.

Again, Calculate the recipe for cotton part. Keep the fabric in the pot. Then required amount of dyes, water, salt soda, and others chemicals are taken to the pot by pipeting. Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depends on what types of dyes are being used. Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 minutes at 95c. Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard sample. Program-01: Fixed temperature = 60c Time Program-02: Fixed temperature = 80c Time =60min. =60 min.

Machine used in lab section

CHAPTER - 05

DYEING SECTION

5.1

ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING AND FINISHING SECTION: G. M / A G. M

Manager (Dyeing &Finishing)

Senior production officer

Production officer

Dyeing master

Shift in charge

Floor in charge

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

5.2 Lay out of dyeing & Finishing section:

10

11

12

13

14

15

15

15

16

16

16

6 19 5 17 17 17 17
18 18 18

22

21

20

20

3 22 E 1
N T R Y

21

23

24 EXIT

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Office (Manager) Office (GM) Chemical store Dyes store Lab Director office

7. Gaust room 8. Air turning machine 9. Fabric store 10. Boiler 1 11.Boiler 2 12.Maintenance office 13.Spare parts store 14.Generator 15.A. K. M. I dyeing machine 16.Sclavos dyeing machine 17.Fongs dyeing machine 18.HAF dyeing 19.Production officers office 20.Squeezer 21.Dryer 22.Compactor 23.Finished fabric inspection 24.Finished fabric store * Toilet

The raw materials used for production are1. Gray fabric 2. Dyes and chemicals 5.3 GRAY FABRICS: Single jersey Interlock Lacoste Lycra rib 1 1 rib and others Collar and cuff Polyester fabrics etc.

5.4 DYES AND CHEMICALS USED IN RAHAMAT KNIT DYEING AND FINISHING LTD: Different Types of Dyes Used With Their Brand Name: REACTIVE DYES:

BRAND NAME COUNTRY NAME

NAME OF DYE STUFF Remazol Golden Yellow RGB Remazol Deep Black RGB Remazol Deep Black GWF Gran Remazol Red RGB Gran Remazol Turquoise Blue G133% Remazol Brilliant Blue R Spec Remazol Brilliant Blue BB 133% Gran

DY-STAR

GERMANY Remazol Ultra Carmine RGB Remazol Ultra Carmine RGB GR Levafix Rubine CA Gran Levafix Red CA Gran Levafix Olive CA Gran Levafix Fast Red CA Gran Levafix Brillant Red E-4BA Gran

Dianix Navy CC Dianix Turquoise S-BG Imcozin Blue E-NR Imcozin Blue V-CR 150% IMPOCOLOR GERMANY Imcozin Brilliant Red V-F3B Imcozin Brilliant Yellow V-4GL Imcozin Yellow E-3R 150% Bezaktive Blue S-GLD 150 BENZEMA SWITZER LAND Bezaktive Yellow S-3R 150 Bezaktive Red S-3B 150 CLARIANT SWITZER LAND Drimarene Yellow K-4G Cdg Terasil Red W-4BS Terasil Nevy W-RS HUNTSMAN SWITZER LAND Novacron Red FN-R-01 Novacron Yellow F-4G Starfix Black B 150% JIHUA CHINA Starfix Red EP 150% Sumifix Supra Blue E-XF SUMIFIX SUN COLOR JAPAN Sumifix Supra Yellow E-XF KOREA Sunfix Navy Blue MF-D

DISPERSE DYES: BRAND NAME COUNTRY NAME NAME OF DYE STUFF HUNTSMAN SWITZER LAND Terasil Golden Yellow W -3R

Different Types of Chemicals Used With Their Brand Name:

CHEMICAL NAME Wetting agent Levelling agent Anti-creasing agent

BRAND NAME Feloson NOF, PCLF A-41, E2R Kapavon CL Kapazon H-53

COUNTRY NAME Germany China Germany

Per Oxide Stabilizer

CBB, S. SOF Rucorit Wez

Germany

Caustic Soda Ash H2O2

Caustic Soda Ash H2O2

China Chaina Chaina+Korea Switzerland

Optical Brightening Uvitex-BMA Agent Uvitex-BHV

Uvitex-BBT Syno White 4Bk H2O2 Killer Acitic Acid Kapatex-PKS Acitic Acid Securon-540 China Sequestering Agent CS, S.2UD Polyclean-SP Bio-ACE Enzyme Biopolish-B41 Srilanka Sodium Sulphate Anhydrose India Glubar Salt Rukozen-WBL Detergent Diwet PIUS Rukozen-NZA Soaping Agent Dekol ISN, RSK China Cyclonon XEW Nerosoft-JS(an-ionic) Softener Nerosoft-NI(nonionic) Purrustol-IMA China India Germany Germany India China Korea Germany India

Electrolyte / Salt

Germany

Sandofix-EC Fixing Agent Protan FCE-375 Germany

5.5 RESPONSIBILITY OF A PRODUCTION OFFICER Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing. Dyes & chemicals requisition issue & check. Program making, sample checking color measurement. Control the supervisors operators & helpers of machines. To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily production plan, batch preparation & PH check. To rectify the finished fabric which rejected from quality control department To check daily production report. To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacture & applied them correctly to the production to get best product 5.6 JOB DESCRIPTION: Title: Production officer. Dept: Dyeing Report to: Senior production officer. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities. Title: Senior production officer. Dept: Dyeing. Report to: Dyeing manager. Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.

5.7 MACHINE DESCRIPTION

MACHINE TYPE SCLAVOS FONJS A K. M I MACHINE 01: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work pressure (bar) Maximum work temperature (C) S/l No. Built Year Origin MACHINE 02: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work pressure (bar) Maximum work temperature (C) S/l No. Built Year Origin MACHINE 03: M/c Name No. of Nozzle SCLAVOS 02

QUANTITY 03 04 03

SCLAVOS 03 1200Kg 2.8 142 04-4A-2680 2005 Athence Greece

SCLAVOS 03 750Kg 2.8 142 04-3A-2692 2005 Athence Greece

Total Capacity Maximum work pressure (bar) Maximum work temperature (C) S/l No. Built Year Origin MACHINE 04: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work temperature (C) Heating area Model No. Built Year Origin MACHINE 05: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work temperature (C) Heating area Model No. Built Year Origin MACHINE 06: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work temperature (C) Heating area Model No. Built Year

500Kg 2.8 142 04-2A-2635 2005 Athence Greece

A K. M I 02 600Kg 140 9.2 m2 AK-HTO-4T 2003 Japan

A K. M I 02 300Kg 140 6.9 m2 AK-HTO-2T 2003 Japan A K. M I 02 150Kg 140 4.6 m2 AK-HTO-1T 2003

Origin MACHINE 07: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work temperature (C) Serial No. Machine no. Built Year Origin MACHINE 08: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work temperature (C) Serial No. Machine no. Built Year Origin

Japan

Fongs 02 250Kg 140 28014608 ECO-38-1T 2003 Japan

Fongs 02 450Kg 140 28014609 ECO-38-2T 2003 Japan

MACHINE 09: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work temperature (C) Serial No. Machine no. Built Year Origin Fongs 02 650Kg 140 28014610 ECO-38-3T 2003 Japan

MACHINE 10: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Maximum work temperature (C) Serial No. Machine no. Built Year Origin MACHINE 11: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Total Capacity Manufacturer Built Year Origin MACHINE 12: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Model no. Total Capacity Manufacturer Built Year Origin MACHINE 13: M/c Name No. of Nozzle Model no. Total Capacity Manufacturer HAF 02 TGRU-HAF-1-400 4000Kg TONG GENG ENERPRISE CO. LTD HAF 01 TGRU-HAF-1-30 30Kg TONG GENG ENERPRISE CO. LTD 2005 Taiwan HAF 01 15Kg TONG GENG ENERPRISE CO. LTD 2005 Taiwan Fongs 03 800Kg 140 29015899 ECO-38-4T 2003 Japan

Built Year Origin

2005 Taiwan

5.8 RECIPE AT DIFFERENT STAGES IN DYEING COTTON FABRIC: SCOURING & BLEACHING Ingredient Detergent + wetting agent (PCLF) Sequestering agent (S.2UD) Stabilizer (SOF) Anticreasing agent (cl) Caustic/soda Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) NEUTRALIZATION Detergent (PCLF) Acitic acid ENZYMATIC PROCESS Acitic acid Enzyme DYEING Leveling agent (E2R) Sequestering agent(s.2UD) Dyes Salt Soda/ Caustic AFTER TREATMENT 40% owf 10% owf 0.5g/l 1g/l 0.5g/l 1g/l 1g/l 0.5g/l Quantity 1g/l 0.5-1g/l 0.5g/l 1.3g/l 5g/l 5g/l

Soaping agent (R.S.K) Acetic acid softener Fixing agent (orgafix R F-20)

1g/l 0.5g/l 0.5g/l 0.5g/l

DIFFERENT PARAMETERS DURING DYEING PH During peroxide bleaching and scouring During enzyme treatment Before addition of leveling agent Before addition of color softener Before addition of white softener Softener at stenter & de-watering Silicon softener Reactive dyeing Disperse dyeing 9-11 4.5-5 6-6.5 6-6.5 4.5-5 5.5-6 5.5-6 10.5-12 4.5-5.5

TEMPARATURE (c) For cotton scouring For cotton cold wash For cotton hot wash For cotton acid wash For cotton dyeing 95-100 40-50 70-80 60-70 80(for hot brand)/ 60(for cold brand)

TIME For scouring and bleaching For reactive dyeing For disperse dyeing 60-90mins 60-90mins 60-90mins

5.9 COTTON DYEING STEPS WITH CURVES: Required amount of water was taken into the machine

Load the fabric & run for 5-10 at normal temperature

Wetting agent, sequestering agent, stabilizer, ant creasing agent (scouring chemicals) were added at a time for 5-10

Soda (dosing) was added for 10-15

Raised the temperature at 70C

H2O2 was added for 7-10

Raised the temperature at 98-100C & continue for 1 hour

Sample check (OK)

Hot wash at 70C for 10

Cold wash at 40C for 5-10

Required amount of water was loaded

Detergent was added

Acetic acid was added

Raised the temperature at 80C for 10-20

Cold wash at 40C &drain

Water filled & acetic acid was added

PH check at 4.5-5

Increased the temperature at 55-60C

Enzyme was added & run for 1 hour

Shade check

Raised the temperature at 80C & run for 10

Cold wash at 40C & drain

Raised the temperature at 60C

PH check at 6-6.5

Leveling agent was added

Sequestering agent was added

Salt inject

Color dosing for 30

Run the machine for 10

Soda dosing (progressive) for 40

Run the machine for 60-90

Shade check (OK)

Rinsing wash

Water was filled at required amount

Soaping agent was added

Temperature increased 60C for 10

Shade check (OK)

Rinsing

Water was filled at required amount

Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10

Shade check (OK)

Rinsing

Fixing agent was added for 10

Final shade checks and run for 20

Unload the dyed fabric

Temp (C)

Scouring & bleaching

Hot wash

H2O2 killer

Cold wash

Min

Fig: scouring & bleaching curve

Time of adding for scouring & bleaching curve 0 = fabric load 10 = wetting agent, sequestering agent, stabilizer, ant creasing agent. 20 = soda 30 = H2O2
180 = wetting agent, acetic acid

Temp (C)

Enzyme killer

Cold wash & drain Min

Fig: Enzyme treatment curve

Time of addition for enzyme & chemical 0 = water filled 10 = acetic acid 30 = enzyme

Temp (C)

Dyeing

min.

Fig: Dyeing curve of cotton

Time of addition dyeing chemicals: 0 = water load 05 = acetic acid 10 = wetting agent, sequestering agent, leveling agent 20 = salt dosing 30 = color dosing 60 = soda dosing 120 = water filled & RSK added 160 = fixing agent 170 = fixing agent 240 = softener added

5.10 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF WHITE DYEING:

Water load

Fabric load

Run the machine for 5 at normal temperature

Drain

Water load

Wetting agent, sequestering agent, anticreasing agent, stabilizer are added at normal temperature

Run 5 minute

Caustic dosing 10 at 40C

Steam rise to 70C

Peroxide dosing for 10

Temperature raises 95C

Run the machine for 40 at 95C

Brightener dosing 20

Run 10

Sample check

Unload

5.11 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF BLACK DYEING: Required amount of water load

Load the fabric & run for 10

Drain

Required amount of water load

Wetting agent was added for 5

Caustic was added for 10

Raised the temperature at 98C & run for 30

Cold wash

Drain

Required amount of water load

Acetic acid was added at 50C for neutralization

Raised the temperature at 98C & run 5

Rinse for 15

Drain

Required amount of water load

Acetic acid was added to control PH (4.5-5)

Temperature increased 55C

Enzyme was added and run for 1 hour

Temperature increased at 80C

Cold wash

Drain

Required amount of water load

Leveling agent was added for 5

Common salt inject

PH check (6-6.5)

Color dosing 30

Soda dosing 20

Caustic dosing for 30

Temperature increased at 60C for 5

Run for 10

Shade check (OK)

Cold wash at 40C & drain

Water filled & acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10

Shade check (OK)

Soaping agent was added for 10

Softener & fixing was added

Unload the fabric

5.12 PROCESS SEQUENCE OF TOPPING: Required amount of water filled

Fabric was loaded & run for 10

Drain

Required amount of water filled

Acetic acid was added for 5

Detergent was added for 5

Temperature increased at 70C

Run the machine for 10

Rinsing for 10

Drain

Required amount of water filled

Wetting agent was added

Soda was added for 5

Temperature increased at 90C

Run the machine for 30

Acetic acid was added

Rinsing for 20

Leveling agent and Sequestering agent was Added for 10

Salt inject

Color dosing for 30

Run the machine for 10

Soda dosing

Run for 1 hour

Temperature increased at 55C for 10

Run machine for 10

Shade check (OK)

Rinsing for 20

Drain

Soaping agent was added

Acetic acid was added for neutralization

Softening agent was added

Final shade checks & run for 20

Unload the dyed fabric

5.13 PROCESS SEQUENCE OF STRIPPING: Required amount of water was loaded

Load the fabric & run for 5-10 at normal temperature

Wetting agent & anticrease were added for 5

Caustic dosing for 5 at normal temperature

Run for 10

Raised the temperature at 100C &run for 40

Cooling at 80C

Hydrose inject for 5

Increased temperature at 100C for 10

Run machine for 30

Coiling at 80C

Sample check

Rinsing for 10

Hot wash

Cold wash

Unload the fabric

5.14 DYEING FAUTS WITH THEIR REMEDIES: 1. Uneven dyeing: Causes: - Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching). - Improper color dosing. - Using dyes of high fixation property. - Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. - Lack of control on dyeing m/c Remedies: - By ensuring even pretreatment. - By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. - Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. - Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

2. Batch to Batch Shade variation: Causes: - Fluctuation of Temperature. - Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals. - Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals. - Dyes lot variation.

- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio. - Improper pretreatment. Remedies: - Use standard dyes and chemicals. - Maintain the same liquor ratio. - Follow the standard pretreatment procedure. - Maintain the same dyeing cycle. - Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. - Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process. - The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily. 3. Patchy dyeing effect: Causes: - Entanglement of fabric. - Faulty injection of alkali. - Improper addition of color. - Due to hardness of water. - Due to improper salt addition. - Dye migration during intermediate dyeing. - Uneven heat in the machine, etc Remedies:

- By ensuring proper pretreatment. - Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals. - Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. - Proper salt addition. 4. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation: Causes: - Poor migration property of dyes. - Improper dyes solubility. - Hardness of water. - Faulty m/c speed, etc Remedies: - Use standard dyes and chemicals. - Proper m/c speed. - Use of soft water 5. Crease mark:

Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope - Shock cooling of synthetic material - If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal - Due to high speed m/c running Remedies:

- maintaining proper reel sped & pumps speed. - Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature - Reducing the m/c load - Higher liquor ratio 6. Dye spot: Causes: - Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath. - Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath. Remedies: - By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals - By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed 7. Wrinkle mark: Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope - Shock cooling of synthetic material - High temperature entanglement of the fabric Remedies: - Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. - Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature - Higher liquor ratio 8. Softener Mark:

Causes: - Improper mixing of the Softener. - Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener. - Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remedies: - Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed. - Proper Mixing of the softener before addition. - Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener 9. Crack, rope & crease marks: Causes: - Poor opening of the fabric rope - Shock cooling of synthetic material - Incorrect process procedure - Higher fabric speed Remedies: Pre-heat setting Lower rate rising & cooling the temperature Reducing the machine load Higher liquor ratio

5.15 PROCESS LOSS IN DIFFERENT STAGE:

1. White or light shade fabric process loss = 6% Add enzyme for white or light shade fabric process loss = 10%

2. Black or deep shade fabric process loss = 4% or 5% Add enzyme for black or deep shade fabric process loss = 8% or 9%

Sclavos dyeing machine

Dyed Fabric Unloading From Fongs Dyeing m/c

Heat Exchanger

CHAPTER - 06

FINISHING SECTION

6.1 Machine Description for Finishing Section:

Finishing section is consisting of one line.

Tube line The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow .

- Dewatering machine - Dryer - Compactor machine

6.2 Process flow Chart for Tube Finishing Section:

Dewatering

Drying

Compacting

Inspection

Delivery

6.3 Description of the Machine for Tube Finish:

DEWATERING MACHINE: Machine 01:

(M/C Specification)

Brand Name: Santex ag

Year of Manufacture: 2003

Company: Santex ag

Type: Santastretch Plus-1600

Origin: Switzerland

Max Working Speed: 80 m/min

Model: CH-5521, Tobel Electr. Voltage: 3*400V 50HZ

Normal working Speed: 40~ 60 m/min Connected load: 20KW

Machine 02: -5% to +10% Overfeed Range:

(M/C Specification)

Brand Name: I Kuang Origin: Taiwan Model No: ET8

Serial No: ET8A4045A9 Power: 380V 50HZ Date: Jan 2005

PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF SANTEX-AG DEWATERING M/C:

Detwister Padding Rollers Padding Rollers

Folder/ Tray

Passage

Guide Roller

Guide Roller Tray

Shaper

hj
Dewaterd Fabric

Working principle:

After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are ready for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed. There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. Here dewatering is performed De-watering is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing and it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used before the fabric is passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric flat wise and adjust the width.

The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider than the required width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is removed from fabric when passed through the nip of it. Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where, - One for removing water and - Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener. But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open widths knitted fabrics are applied finishing treatment later in stenter.

Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase. In feed & Out feed traverses which present in albatros control the following functions by over feeding system. To control the width (dia) of the fabric. To control the spirality of the fabric. To control the crease mark of the fabric. To control the length of the fabric.

Operational parameter: - Speed: As much as possible (40-60 m/min). Higher the GSM lower the speed. - Over feed: As required. Higher the GSM higher the over feed. - Padder pressure: 3-7 bar as required. Higher the GSM lower the padder pressure. - Width: Fabric width is adjusted as per required width. N.B: Santex contains two baths. One for padder bath and another for softener bath where softener given 1 g/l. The softener bath capacity is 80 liters.

Special features of Santex-ag m/c: Single squeeze roller and single padder present. One for squeezing and other for applying softener finished. Above 80% water can be removed Maximum 60 inch diameter can be extended. Softener tank present.

Maintenance during operation: Proper balloon form by compressor air otherwise crease mark appears. Padder contract point adjusts perfectly according to the fabric construction otherwise accurate water will not remove. Albatros must be clean every one or two hours later.

DRYER MACHINE:

(M/C Specification)

Brand Name: Santex ag

Year of Manufacture: 2003

Company: Santex ag

Type: Santashrink 2K/240, IRGF1GAS

Origin: Switzerland

Max. Working Speed: 30 m/min

Model: DIAGRAM OF SANTEX-AG STEAM DRYER Min. working Speed: 5~15 m/min PASSAGECH-9555, Tobel Max. Temperature: 1850C

Overfeed Range: 0% to -25%

No of Chamber: Two

No of Burner : Two

Overfeed Roller

Feed Roller

Dried fabric delivery

Chamber 1

Chamber 2

Burner -1

Burner -2

Conveyor belt Teflon Coated

Here , = Folder belt .

Fabric Passage

Fig: Passage Diagram of The fabric in Dryer Machine.

Working principle of dryer:

After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. The main function of the dryer is given below, To dry the fabric. To control the overfeed system. To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.

This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net. When the fabric pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting line. The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the fabric. If the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480 m/min.

The temp. of different chambers according to the shade of the fabric

Shade Light Medium Deep

Chamber-1 1200c 1350c 1500c

Chamber-2 1300c 1400c 1700c

Operating parameters:-

Temperature:-Set the temperature between 1200c -1300c for white and 1500c -1700c for color fabric. GSM temperature Or, moisture content temperature Set the over feed up to 10~20% or as required to get finish G.S.M. Set the speed as much as possible (6~20m/min). GSM speed
Special feature of Santex-ag steam dryer: Steam dryer (two chambers). Vibration occurs in heating zone. Process air pressure switch present. Maximum temp. Increase up to 1700c. Steam control switch present. Two burners present. Two conveyor belts are present.

Following things are also considered in case of Dryer machine: If fabric is redder than the standard one, then reduce the temperature.

 If fabric is more Yellower than the standard one, then increase the temperature. If fabric is more Bluer than the standard one, then increase the temperature

COMPACTOR MACHINE:
(M/C Specification)

Brand Name: Santex ag

Year of Manufacture: 2003

Company: Santex ag

Type: Santaspread 140, Without winder

Origin: Switzerland

Max. Working Speed: 50 m/min

PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF SANTEX-AG COMPACTOR MACHINE: Model: CH-9555, Tobel Min. working Speed: 5 m/min
Steam Roller / 1st Roller Heating

Overfeed Range: -5% to +50%

Working Speed: 15~25 m/min

1 Denser Roller
st

Max. Temperature: 1000C~1390C

Feed Roller

.
Folding Shaper Rollers 2 Roller Heating Feeder Compacted Fabric
nd

2 Denser Roller

nd

Drayed Fabric

Fig: Fabric passage diagram through Santex-ag Compactor machine

Working principle:The main object of compactor is to make the fabric surface smooth, to control the residual shrinkage, G.S.M and if required fabric width also. To control the residual shrinkage the fabric is previously shrinkage artificially by gathering of loops of knitted fabric and it is set by heat and pressure. In tube compactor, the dried tubular knitted fabric is face to steam when it passed through the teflon coated conveyor belt. When a cotton fabric absorbs water, it swells and shrinks (particularly in length direction) because the absorbed water allows the cellulose chains to move relative stain free position. Then the fabric is passed through the expander. This m/c contains two compaction units to compact both side of the tubular fabric. Each unit contains a hot rotating cylinder, blanket which rotate in contact with the cylinder and Teflon cover .while passing the expander roller, the fabric is over feeded. The fabric is compacted with the pressure of blanket and Teflon cover while passing through the hot cylinder .Due to compaction stitch length is reduced. Then the fabric is passed through the counting device .Before packing, the fabric is inspected carefully.

Important parts:-Over feed roller. -Expander. -Blanket (2) - Steam sprayers. - Cylinder (2) - Teflon covers.

Operational parameter:- Set the temperature at 110-1390C (as required) - Set the speed as much as possible (15-25m/min). GSM m/c speed - Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to increase to a certain limit. Function:

To control shrinkage. To control width. To control GSM. To smooth fabric.

Heat seating of fabric for lycra.

Special feature of Santex ag Compactor:

Operating system is computerized. Steam bar present which soften the fabric for compacting. In compacting zone, edge & retard roller, compacting shoe and steel plates are present. A pair of pulley present for fabric dia control. Fabric G.S.M, shrinkage and dia control.

Following things are also considered in case of compacting machine:

If fabric is less Reddish than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam. If fabric is less yellowish than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without steam. If fabric is less Blueish than the standard one, then reduce the temperature, increase steam.

N.B: Overfeed Steam G.S.M

Overfeed Steam Stretch G.S.M

Teflon speed (+) More compaction Teflon speed (-) Less compaction, G.S.M because overfeed is less.
N.B: To remove twisting the tube fabric may be heat set before compacting. For Viscose with Lycra more overfeed required.

All this datas are practiced in mills which may vary factory to factory.

Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection:

(Q.A.D)

After completing finishing process here firstly check the shade as per buyer standard with dimensional stability from lab.

Secondly check dia / width fabric weight or G.S.M

Thirdly check fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard.

The every roll with every meter check as per four (04) point system.

Make a report.

If OK then ready for delivery.

If not OK then identify the fault.

If it is knitting fault then inform the knitting department by job card and mail, & requested the fabric for replacement.

If it is dyeing fault & If make sure that it is reprocess able then give job card to dyeing department correction. And if is not reprocess able then reject the fabric & inform the dyeing department to replace the rejected quantity.

6.4 Different type of fault found in final inspection: Hole Pin Hole Softener mark Barry mark Slab Barry mark Fault Name Drop Stitch Lycra Out Band mark Needle mark Crease mark

CHAPTER - 07

QUALITY CONTROL

a. QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM: The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process & various stage of its manufacturing. 7.2 Objects of quality control: Research Selection of raw materials Process control Process development Product testing Specification test Mainly this factory follows ISO Standard. But testing Standard depends on buyer requirements. 7.3 List of Equipments: Computer Light box Electric Heater Sample Dyeing M/C Electrical Balance pH meter G S M Cutter Washing M/ C

 Shrinkage & spirality measurement instrument 7.4 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE: Quality assurance Procedure may be divided two major Parts: 1. Online quality Control 2. Offline System Control Scope of Quality Control, Quality Assurance and Testing: Testing Lab Machine-Auditing System A good Training System Technical Expertise

On Line test: G S M of the fabric Exact Diameter and Width Grey Fabric Inspection Shade Check Bias and Bowing Visual Appearance (Enzyme Performance)

Off Line Test: All The Off Line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows 1. Physical Test and 2. Chemical Test Physical Test: Finished Fabric Dia G S M of Fabric Rubbing Fastness Diameter and Width Course Per inch

 Wales per inch Finished Fabric dia : In Knit, dyeing finishing, finished diameter is Very important factor. It should be kept as the buyer requirements. Simply a measuring tape measures it. Finished diameter is controlled at compacting m/c. 7.5 G S M Test: G S M is the most important factor. There is a G S M Cutter. The Sample cut by this weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm) from the balance multiplied by 100 to get Value of G S M. 7.6 Rubbing Fastness test: Purpose: The fastness test to rubbing is used on a Variety of fabrics to evaluate the transfer of surface from the test fabric when it applied surface friction or rubbed against a rough surface. Rubbing fastness test is determined by Crock meter. The test fabric is clamped in the plate of the crock meter. A standard fabric is used for rubbing the test sample. `0 cycles are given manually by a handle. Then the standard fabric is assessed with the help of the grey scale. The scale is graded from 1 to 5, being the Poorest and 5 being and 5 being the best. 7.7 Chemical Test: Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting Fastness to wash Fastness to Perspiration PH test

7.8 Wash fastness Test: Purpose: The resistant of color of my dyed or printed material to washing is known as Wash fastness. The test fabric is sewn with multifibre such that two multifibre strip remain at the both side of the test fabric. Then they are washed with the following recipe:

Liquor Ratio: 1:20 5 gm fabric + 100 cc water + 0.5% detergent + 0.10 % sodium perborate + 25 Steel balls. Washes with: 60 c x 30 min Then the multifibre is detached from the test fabric. It is dried and wash fastness is assessed by grey scale.

7.9 PH Check: Purpose: To fulfill the buyer requirements to keep the pH of the fabric as Per standard. Method: ISO Procedure: Take 3 Pieces of 2 gm sample Take 100ml of distilled water (pH 5.5 to 7.5) in three Conical Flack. Shake them for 1 hrs in normal temperature. Finally measures the pH by average them. - Standard pH range for colored fabric 6 to 8 - Standard pH range for colored fabric 5 to 8

7.10 Shrinkage and Spirality Test: Shrinkage and Spirality both are very important for control the quality of fabric. Buyer considers + 5% allowance for both Shrinkage and spirality.The scale is 50 cm long. The supplied the instrument use for this Purposes are washing m/c, measurement tape, scissors etc. The measurement Calculation of shrinkage and Spirality test are given below: Before wash - after wash Shrinkage % = Before wash x 100

Remarks: Quality Control is the most important department in every Textile industry. It is strongly recommended that the Quality should be maintained as exactly the buyers requirements.