TECHNICAL REPORT

ON

TEXTILE APPLICATION OF THE

COLOR SENSITIVITY OF DYE
MIXTURES

TEXTILE LABORATORY
APPLIED CHEMISTRY RESEARCH CENTRE.

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 TECHNICAL REPORT
ON
TEXTILE APPLICATION OF THE
COLOR SENSITIVITY OF DYE
MIXTURES

Prepared By

Javaid Mughal, Mansoor Iqbal and Muhammad Naeem

(A Team of Textile Scientists at PCSIR Lab Complex Karachi)

E-mail: javaidtextile@hotmail.com
mansoorprocessing@hotmail.com
m_n_pearl@yahoo.com

TEXTILE LABORATORY
APPLIED CHEMISTRY RESEARCH CENTRE
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INTRODUCTION:

Cotton is the backbone of the world’s textile trade. It has many qualities and countless end
uses, which make it one of the most abundantly, used textile fibres in the world. It is a seed
hair of plant of genus gossypium, the purest form of cellulose found in nature. However,
cotton is one of the most problematic fibres as far as its general wet processing or dyeing is
concerned. Quite frequently, the problems in dyed cotton materials are not due to the actual
dyeing process but due to some latent defects introduced from previous production and
processing stages. Often, the root-cause of a problem in the dyed material can be traced as far
back as to the cotton field.
The dyeability variations are cotton obtained from different sources. It has been suggested
that the substrate should be obtained from a single source, wherever possible, in order to keep
the dyeability. Variations than other, those dyes should be selected for dyeing which are less
sensitive to dyeability variation. In dyeing, if resultant shade for a dye mixture passes the
quality examination after its first dyeing, the product is called a right-first-time product. The
process producing the right-first-time product is thus called a right-first-time process: one that
is economical because it consumes the least energy, labor, and time etc. To produce a right-
first-time product, process control is essential for dyeing and, to enable this, many modern
dyeing control systems have been developed. Unfortunately, errors in the dyeing operation
will still sometimes occur. Therefore employing a low-sensitivity recipe in dyeing may be an
alternative approach. Should dyeing errors occur, the less sensitive the recipe is to such
errors, the more chance there is that the resultant shade will successful.

Target Shade
Dye Brand
Sensitivity
Normal
Concentration
Sensitivity

Modified
Dye
Total
Sensitivity
Temperature
Sensitivity Temperature
Change database

Time
Time
Sensitivity
Change database

Auxiliaries Auxiliaries
Sensitivity Change database

Liquor Ratio
Sensitivity Liquor Ratio
Change database

Figure 1: Procedure for predicting colour sensitivity.

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The research that has been done in this field has been limited to establishing and applying a
method of predicting the colour sensitivity of a matching recipe. This research help us the
selection of dyes in a mixture recipe for dyeing. However, in practice, the effectiveness of the
recipe solution by the concentration sensitivity could be only marginal and other parameters
might be more important to the recipe performance than an error in the dye concentration.
Therefore it is important to consider colour sensitivity in its widest possible context. Dye
sensitivity is collection of various functional parameters. If we want to measure reactive dye
sensitivity, we must know the conditions, type of dyes added, nature of dyeing (PDC, PB,
Exhaust), what auxiliaries are added, time, temperature, liquor ratio, fabric etc. so many
factors affected on the dyes sensitivity.

Sensitivity measuring terminology:

Sensitivity has two major parts first, part is to do the changes in dyeing parameters
chemically or mechanically, in second part is to measure the sensitivity by colour measuring
instruments in the terms of K/S, CIE Lab, %E, %F, Build-up properties, Strength comparison
or by fastness properties.
There are many diverse reasons for measuring colour, and instrument requirements vary
widely with each application. Relative measurements at a single location are obviously less
stringent than absolute measurements that must provide comparable data when measured at
different locations. Spectrophotometers, colorimeters, and instruments that combine various
features of both are available to meet most of these requirements. Although simple, low-cost
colorimeters and spectrophotometers are usually adequate for relative colour measurements
on specific problems, the more complex and costly double-beam recording
spectrophotometers, interfaced to a computer, is the preferred instrument system for the
general analysis of synthetic dyes.
Colour is three dimensional, a property that is apparent in various ways. Colour atlases
arrange colours using three scales (Hue, value and chroma) in the case of the Munsell system.
To accurate specification of object colours and colour differences, CIE recommended three-
dimensional uniform colour spaces-CIE Lab and CIE LUV in 1976. Since the equations are
long, they are omitted here. These are called the CIE 1976 (L* a* b*) colour space or CIE
Lab colour space, and the other, CIE 1976 (L* U* V*) colour space or CIE LUV colour
space, and have similar structures as the Munsell colour solid. In imaging applications, CIE
Lab space is commonly used. In CIE Lab space, L* shows the lightness, and (a* b*) the
colour as shown in fig, 1

Figure 1. CIE Lab.

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The coordinate (L*, a*, b*) is calculated from the (x, y, z) of the given light stimulus and
(Xn, Yn, Zn) of the white point. Therefore, the CIE Lab space has a function of correcting for
chromatic adaptation to the white point, and is intended for object colour and displays. The
colour difference in the CIE Lab space is calculated as the Euclidean distance between the
points in this three-dimensional space, and is given by,

ΔE*ab = [ (ΔL*)2 + (Δa*)2 + (Δb*)2 ]1/2

This equation is called the CIE 1976 (L* a* b*) colour difference formula .The chroma C*ab
and the hue angle hab are also calculated from (l * a* b*) by,

C*ab = (a*2 + b*2)1/2

Hab = tan-1 (b*/a*)

The CIE LUV space is defined in a similar manner, and the coordinate (L*, U*, V*) is
calculated from the Y and (u’, v’) of the given light stimulus and the white point. The colour
difference, ΔE*ab is widely used; its chroma scale is known to be fairly nonlinear. For more
accurate colour difference evaluations, CIE recommended an improved industrial colour
difference formula in 1994-CIE 94 formula. The colour difference ΔE* is calculated from
ΔL*, ΔC*ab and ΔH*ab of the CIE Lab formula. Another improved formula, the CMC colour
difference formula, is mainly used in textile industry. Further improved colour difference
formulas are being investigated by CIE.

In CIE Lab, the selections of light sources are also available in the system.
• An artificial day light source, D65.
• A tungsten-filament sources.
• A three-band fluorescent sources TL84.
• A UV source (For enhancing fluorescent white)

Steps in the determination of a dyeing recipe:

A recipe of dyes consists of one or many dyes, the quality of each dye (in the quantity of
product that should be used at the beginning of the dyeing) and the application process. Recipe
of dyes also indicates all the parameters of dyeing process, such as the temperature, time,
liquor ratio, quantity of chemicals and auxiliaries.
The determination of a dyeing recipe takes place in three main steps:

First step:

The first step consists of selection of the dyestuffs and of the dyeing process that may be used
to calculate the recipes of dyes.

Second step:

The second step is the calculation of the recipes of dyes from the previously selected objects.
This calculation is done from calibration range of dyes. A calibration range consists in dyeing
an article, using a specific process and with several concentration of dyes. Computer provides

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a mean of testing alternative dye combinations to find the optimum mixture that will
minimum cost and /or color difference relative to the target shade.
The number of recipes to be predicted rises very rapidly as the number of possible dyes is
increased. Then, it is very important to eliminate as soon as possible, all the objects that will
not permit the requirement to be fulfilled. Moreover, in the case of article made of several
fibers, such as cotton/polyester articles, a recipe of dye has to be calculated for cotton fiber,
and another one for the polyester fibers.

Third step:

In the third step “best” calculated recipe of dyes is selected. The complete dyeing recipe is
determined. Then a sample is dyed and if the dyed sample has the desired color and if the
client requirements are fulfilled, this dyeing recipe is accepted for production. If the desired
color is not obtained, then the recipe of the dyes is to be modified (i.e. the concentration of
each dyes), until the color difference between target and the match sample is negligible.
Finally if the requirements are not achieved by the dyeing recipe (for instance the washing
fatness is too low), then the dyer must choose another recipe of dyes. Whenever there is some
difficulties with all the calculated recipes of dyes, it means that the textile processing mills
can not fulfill the client specifications due to dyes or process.
At present, there are tools that permit the recipe of dyes to be calculated by using the Kubelka
– Munck’s relationship or K / S values.

Fig. Process of determination of a dyeing recipe.

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COLOR SENSITIVITY OF DYE MIXTURE:
Formulating colorant recipes to match target colours is not an easy task. Manual color
prediction often uses a trial and error method, for which the experience of the colourist is
essential. The majority of color matching also required color to be matched not only under
daylight, but also under other artificial light sources such as cool white fluorescent (CWF),
TL84, D65, etc. a previous recipe archive is very useful for manual color matching. A colourist
would firstly search the previous recipe archive to find out the closest colour matching target
or standard and then make sure adjustment to the recipe if the recipe color is not the exact
match to the target. However this trial and error process is lengthy and arduous even for a
professional colourist.

Computer color matching is an alternative method. Alderson first discovered the commercial
application of computer color recipe formulation in textile in 1961.the computer color
matching becomes a necessity for a modern dye house to install a computer colorant
formulation system. Color matching to a target shade depends not only on the formulation
system but also on the:

- Accuracy of the recipe preparation.

- The repeatability of the dyeing process.
- The color measurement process.

There is a need of quality control at each step in the coloration and the measuring process.
The core of the formulation system is based on the theory developed by Kubelka & Munk
known as Kubelka – Munk theory.

Recipe correction:

After recipe formulation, a new color sample can be produced according to the colorant
concentration suggested. Because of the influence of the various variables in the dyeing
process, the produced sample may not be acceptable and a recipe correction process may be
needed.

Laboratory correction:

Laboratory correction gives a fresh recipe according to what was obtained by previous
dyeing. The new concentration calculation as follows:

Cn = Cp X Cu / Cb (1 ).

or

Cn = Cp + Cu - Cb (2 ).

Where

Cn = corrected recipe.
Cp = predicted recipe for target.
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 Cu = recipe used in dyeing equal to Cp .
Cb = recipe back – predicted for the batch dyeing results.

Correction method in equation 1 is called weighted or ratio correction and that is given in
equation 2 is called additive correction.

Production correction:

Production correction predicts the additional amount of dyes to be added to the dyeing bath:

Cadd = Cn - Cu (3 ).

Where Cn is calculated according to the laboratory correction via either weighted or additive
methods. There is no beed – off included in the calculation. It may be added if bleeding is a
problem.
If a batch is already too dark compared with standard this correction for exhaust dyeing will
fail, mean that the absorbed dyes should be stripped before correction. for continuous dyeing
diluents need to be added to dilute the dye liquor,. However for a slight dark color, the
production correction for exhaustion dyeing should correct huge difference and try to reduce
the overall color difference.

Visual assessment of colour:

For the visual determination of the specification of an unknown specimen, a colour atlas is
viewed alongside the specimen under prescribed conditions. An approximate specification of
the specimen is given by the denotation of the chip juded closest to its colour. The human
visual system can distinguish several million colour, however, where as most colour atlases
contain at best a few thousands chips. Even the most comprehensive systematic sampling of
colour space yet produced, whilst the human visual system is an excellent null detector (being
very capable of assessing whether or not colours match), it is not good at estimating the
relative magnitude of differences in colour. If several assessors interpolate to arrive at
specification their reports usually differ, after significantly, and even the some assessor
assessing on different occasions usually gives a variety of specifications. In an experiment,
the ICI colour atlas coordinates of six specimens were assessed, to the nearest chip, by five
experienced assessors under identical conditions on each of six occasions, not one assessor
chose the same three coordinates for any specimen on all occasions, and one assessor did not
choose the same three coordinates, for three of the specimens, on any occasion.
Lack of correlation between interpolations is one of the principle problems of visual methods
of specifying colour. Nevertheless colour atlases continue to be used because it is necessary
in same applications, and desirable in others, to have available a collection of chips
systematically sampling colour space.

Variables in the analytical method:

Specific details concerning sampling, solvents, weights, volumes, and special techniques to
cope with solution and measurement idiosyncrasies must be established individually for each
species of colorant. Although several of these problems are minimized simply by good
analytical technique, some problems are unique to the spectrophotometeric measurement of

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colorants in solution. A few of the pitfalls encountered in solution coloristics are discussed
below.

Solution variables:
Solution variables may have a pronounced effect on colour measurement. Each effect should
be considered from its dual aspect; by measuring the material the effect may be studied, and
by controlling the effect the material may be determined. In developing an analytical method
each new colorant should be screened to determine its behaviour towards each of the solution
variables. If a solution variable is found to have a significant effect on the coloristics,
conditions must be changed to maximize analytical precision. Shade and strength parameters
may both vary with solution conditions, one parameter may change without any significant
effect upon the other.

Concentration effect:
Variation in absorptivity with concentration represents non-conformance to beer’s law rather
than a failure of the law. Beer’s law holds for single molecular or ionic species of the colorant
being analysed. If aggregate molecules or ions are present in equilibrium, the equilibrium
may shift with changes in the concentration and the system does not conform to Beer’s law.
If the aggregate equilibrium is constant with changes in concentration, the system conforms.
Conformance to Beer’s law is required to obtained reliable coloristics data. Non conformance
is usually dealt with by narrowing the concentration range or by changing the solvent strength
alone can be accurately determined in a non conforming system either measuring the
absorbance at an isobestic point or by making appropriate corrections from a predetermined
plot of absorbance versus concentration.

Temperature effect:
At very low temperature the molecular vibrations of a colorant may be so restricted that the
solution becomes colourless. At room temperature and higher, colour variation with
temperature is usually attributed to isomerization, aggregation, or chemical reaction.
Temperature effects on coloristics properties are either reversible or irreversible. A reversible
effect during heating to dissolve the dye is unimportant because the original form is obtained
after cooling. If an irreversible change occurs during heating for dissolution conditions can be
changed to avoid the temperature effect. If temperature affects the dilute solution it should be
thoroughly investigated to determine whether the change is reversible and at what
temperature the changed occurs.

pH effect:

The initial pH of the dyebath will be lower at the end of the dyeing by one half to whole unit,
indicating that some alkali has been used up during dyeing. The cellulosic fibre is responsible
for some of this reduction, while a smaller part is used by the dyestuff as it hydrolysis. The
effect of pH, account must be taken of the internal pH of the fibre as well as the external pH
of the solution. The internal pH is always lower than external pH of the solution. Since the
decomposition reaction is entirely in the external solution, the higher external pH favors
decomposition of the dye rather than reaction with the fiber. pH influences primarily the
concentration of the cellusate site on the fibre. It also influences the hydroxyl ion
concentration in the bath and in the fibre. Raising the pH value by 1 unit corresponds to a
temperature rise of 20oc; the dyeing rate is best improved by raising the dyeing temperature
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once a pH of 11-12 is reached. Further increased in pH will reduce the reaction rate as well as
the efficiency of fixation. Different types of alkalis, such as caustic soda, soda ash, sodium
silicate or a combination of these alkalis, are used in order to attain the required dyeing pH.
The choice of alkali usually depends on the nature of dye.
The colour of many dyes varies quite drastically with pH, and in most instances this
behaviour is predictable from chemical structure. To provide reliable coloristics data for
products that vary with pH, it is necessary to adjust the pH prior to measurement. Adjustment
is made either by titration or by using a solvent buffered to a specific pH. For case of
operation the buffered solvent is preferred, provided its buffering capacity is capable of
suppressing pH variation from one sample to another.

Electrolyte effect:

The addition of electrolyte results in an increase in the rate and extent of exhaustion, increase
in dye aggregation and a decrease in diffusion. The electrolyte efficiency increases in the
order: KCl<Na2SO4< NaCl. There may be impurities present in the salt to be used, such as
calcium sulphate, magnesium sulphate, iron, copper and alkalinity that can be source of many
dyeing problems.

Irradiation effects:
Colour change with exposure to light may be either reversible or irreversible. The reversible
property is known as photochromism and the irreversible property is light fading.

Surfactant effect:
Non-ionic surfactants are frequently added in small amounts to the analytical solvent as a
dissolution aid; this may be specified in the procedure. However, if a surfactant is
inadvertently introduced as a contaminant it may affect the spectral properties of the dye
being analysed. It has also been reported that the presence of surfactants may enhance the
sensitivity of a dye in solution to irradiation.

Ion effect:
Many dyes are good chelating agents are evidenced from their structures and the extensive
commercial use of metalized dyes. Thus it should be no surprise that dyes scavenge metal
ions from solution and that the metal ions change the coloristics properties. This effect
decreases the strength and change the shade. Some dyes are sensitive to electrolytes and
changes with the concentration of ions in solution.
Interfering ions present many problems in correlation solution coloristics with shade and
strength determination in end use test. The effect of interfering ions can be minimized, and
sometimes eliminated, by adding chelating agents, surfactants, or protective colloids to the
colorant solution, however, it must be remembered that these measures are not being taken in
the application tests.

Impurity analysis:
Impurity is defined here as any undesirable colorant, or combination of colorants, that
adversely affects the end use properties of a dye. If the impurity is identified as a single
species and significant amounts of it are present, it can be quantitatively determined by
analytical technique or by separation technique.
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The methods of impurity measurement apply only when the level of impurity is significant
large so that it can be seen to influence the profile of a spectral curve. It is also possible to
have impurity present at such low concentration that they are not detectable by conventional
analysis yet create problems in dyeing. If these impurities absorb in an area of low
absorbance for the dye being measured their absorbance can be exaggerated by measuring a
more concentrated solution (the stock solution is frequently used) in this particular area of the
spectrum.
The most convenient way with simple instrumentation is to determine the absorbance of
sample and standard at specific wavelength and normalize for concentration, path length, and
AI according to the following equation.

I.I = Aλa
BC AI
Where I.I is the impurity index, A is the absorbance at wavelength a, b is the sample path
length in centimetres; C is the dye concentration in grams per liter (as decimal fraction) of the
sample being measured.

I.I = f A1 (sample) - f A2 (standard).

Application to dyeing problems:

Solution colourist can be as important to dye application, as it is to dye synthesis. It was
recognized during early instrumental measurement of dyed fabric that the accuracy of color
specification was limited more by the dyeing process than by the method of measuring. As a
result, solution colorists in one form or another has been used to study all aspects of the
dyeing process. Solution spectra are usually obtained when the dye is received. Although
most solutions measurements are made to determine strength, other colorists criteria may also
be used to determine acceptability. Before solution colorists can be used in this way it must
be established that solution data correlate with application testing. Solution colorists is also
used in controlling the dye bath. For proper controlling it is necessary for the solubility of the
dye to be known, because poor solubility causes weak dyeings and/or specking.
Solution colorists is often used in the maintanance of dye standards. Dye standards may
change with time owing the hygroscopicity of powders, evaporation of liquids, or the general
degradation of quality with time. Periodic color analysis of dye standards and comparision
with data obtained from earlier analysis will indicate quality changes. Standard drift is not
easily detected from routine analysis where samples are compared to standard in a relative
sense.

Influence of Dye characteristics in reactive dyeing:

The major dye variables that affect reactive dyeing are dye chemistry, substantivity,
Reactivity, diffusion coefficient and substativity, each of these will be discussed below:

Dye chemistry:

Reactive dye has a wide variety in terms of their chemical structure. The two most important
component of a reactive dye are the chromophour and the reactive group. The characteristics
governed by the chromophour are color gamut, light fastness, chlorine / bleach fastness,
solubility, affinity and diffusion. The chromophour of most of the reactive dyes are azo,
anthraqnone, Pthalocynine. Azo dyes are dischargible, diazo dyes have the disadvantage of
being much more sensitive to reduction and many of them are difficult to wash-off. Most of

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them possess excellent fastness to light and to crease resistant finish, but they are not
dischargeable. Pthalocynine dyes diffuses slowly and are difficult to wash off. Meta complex
dyes containing copper possesses rather dull hues, but shows a high degree of fastness to light
and to crease resistant finishes. There substantivity is fairy high 1:2 complexes diffuse
relatively slowly. So a longer time is needed to wash out unfixed dye completely.
The dye characteristics governed by reactive group are reactivity, dye-fiber bond stability,
and efficiency of reaction with the fiber and affinity. Dyeing conditions, especially the alkali
requirements and temperature as well as the use of salt also depends upon the type of reactive
group. Dyes based on s-triazine do not have good fastness properties in acidic media and, due
to their high subtativity, have poor wash off properties. Similarly dyes having a vinyle
sulphone reactive system have poor alkaline fastness. The chemical bond between the vinyle
sulphone dyes and cellulosic fiber is very stable to acidic hydrolysis. The substantively of
hydrolyzed by products of vinyl sulphone is low, so washing off is easy. Monochlorotriazine
have good fastness to light, perspiration and chlorine. The turquoise reactive dye shows an
optimum dyeing temperature that is generally about 20°C higher than that of other dyes with
the same reactive group. The flourotriazine groups forms linkages with cellulose that are
stable to alkaline media. Reactive dyes of dichloroquinoxaline, monochlorotriazine and
monoflorotrizine types show a tendency for lower resistance to peroxide washing and dye-
fiber bond stability. A lower sensitivity to changes in dyeing conditions (particularly
temperature) is the most important characteristics feature of the monochlorotriazine – vinyl
sulphone heterobifunctional dyes.

Substativity:

Substantivity more depends upon chromophour as compared to reactive system. A high

substantivity may results:
• Lower dye solubility.
• High primary exhaustion.
• A high reaction rate.
• Lower diffusion coeffecient.

A low sensitivity of dyes to the variation in the processing conditions such as time,
temperature, pH, material to liquor ratio may results:
• Less diffusion.
• Less migration and levelness.
• More difficult to the removal of unfixed dyes.

Substantivity is also the best measure of the ability of a dye to cover dead cotton or immature
cotton fibers. Covering power is best when the substantivity is either high or very low. An
increase in the dye substantivity may be affected by:
• Lower concentration of dyes.
• Higher concentration of electrolyte.
• Lower temperature.
• Higher pH upto 11.
• Lower liquor to material ratio (M:L)

Reactivity:

High dye reactivity entails a lower dyeing time and lower efficiency of fixation. To improve
the efficiency of fixation by reducing dye reactivity requires a longer dyeing time and
therefore less effective than an increase in substativity. Also there is wide range of
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temperature and pH over which the dye can be applied. Altering the pH or temperature, two
dyes of intricsically different reactivity may be made to react at a similar rate can modify
reactivity of dye

Solubility:

Dyes of better solubility can diffuse easily and rapidly into the fibers, resulting in better
migration and leveling. Increasing the temperature, adding urea and decreasing the use of
electrolyte may affect on increase in dye solubility.

Materials and Methods:

Materials:

In the research work following materials were used.

Fabric:

Scoured and bleached, fluorescent brightener free woven 100% cotton fabric, twill weaves
with a weight of 238g/m2 and density of 46 threads/cm in the warp and 20threads/cm in weft
directions and the fabric Berger whiteness is 74.53% was used for pad dry cure dyeing.

Dyes and chemicals:

Commercial samples of Rifafix reactive dyes (Red, Blue and yellow) and Sumifix dyes (Red,
Blue and yellow), wetting agent Sandozin MRN, which is poly glycol ether derivative,
sodium Alginate were obtain from market. Sodium hydroxide sodium Bicarbonate, Soda Ash,
Urea, DAP are AR Grade chemicals.

Equipment:

Pad dying was carried out by using a laboratory scale vertical Padder (Rapid). The samples
were cured on the curing machine (Rapid). The colour coordinates were recorded on the Data
Color Spectraflash SF 650X. Wash fastnesses were carried out on the IR dyeing machines
(Aiba). Light fastness was carried out on Weather-o-meter.

Experimental work:

For the determination of colour sensitivity of two different brands of dyes three primary
colours (Red, Blue and Yellow) has been used and by the combination of three colours a
trichoromacity diagram has been developed. Standard recipe of PDC dyeing to measure
colour sensitivity.

By the combination of three colours we develop 66 shades of individual dye brand. Out of
these 66 shades we chose three shades from 2 sets of combination, which we consider as
target shades (Attached sheet). On similar pattern we produce these target shades by
combination of two dye brands
Similarly we determine the colour sensitivity of target shades of individual dye. The factors
that effect colour sensitivity of target shades are curing time, urea concentration, pH and use
of DAP.

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To check the sensitivity of the dyes with reference to specific target shades standard Recipe
of pad dry cure dyeing is given bellow.
Standard Recipe of Pad dry cure dyeing:

Dye stock solution = 10 gm/l

Sodium Carbonate = 20 gm /l
Urea = 150 gm/l
Sodium Alginate = 20 ml of 2 % Stock solution

Standard conditions for Pad dry cure dyeing:

Fabric twill
Pick up of Padder = 70 % Curing time = 60 sec
pH = 11 Curing temperature= 160 °C
Dyeing time = 90 sec
Drying Temperature = 98 °C

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 COLOUR SENCITIVITY
COLOUR MATCHING TRIANGLE
BY PAD – DRY – CURE METHOD
Tri chromacy dyeing Recipe
1
Y = 10
R=0
B=0
2 3
Y=9 Y=9
R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1
4 5 6
Y=8 Y=8 Y=8
R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2
7 8 9 10
Y=7 Y=7 Y=7 Y=7
R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3
11 12 13 14 15
Y=6 Y=6 Y=6 Y=6 Y=6
R=4 R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3 B=4
16 17 18 19 20 21
Y=5 Y=5 Y=5 Y=5 Y=5 Y=5
R=5 R=4 R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3 B=4 B=5
22 23 24 25 26 27 28
Y=4 Y=4 Y=4 Y=4 Y=4 Y=4 Y=4
R=6 R=5 R=4 R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3 B=4 B=5 B=6
29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
Y=3 Y=3 Y=3 Y=3 Y=3 Y=3 Y=3 Y=3
R=7 R=6 R=5 R=4 R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3 B=4 B=5 B=6 B=7
37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45
Y=2 Y=2 Y=2 Y=2 Y=2 Y=2 Y=2 Y=2 Y=2
R=8 R=7 R=6 R=5 R=4 R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3 B=4 B=5 B=6 B=7 B=8
46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55
Y=1 Y=1 Y=1 Y=1 Y=1 Y=1 Y=1 Y=1 Y=1 Y=1
R=9 R=8 R=7 R=6 R=5 R=4 R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3 B=4 B=5 B=0 B=7 B=8 B=9
56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66
Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0 Y=0
R = 10 R=9 R=8 R=7 R=6 R=5 R=4 R=3 R=2 R=1 R=0
B=0 B=1 B=2 B=3 B=4 B=5 B=6 B=7 B=8 B=9 B = 10

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 COLOUR SENSITIVITY
BY PAD – DRY – CURE METHOD
SUMIFIX DYES DATA BASE
(Before washing)

Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
01. 81.58 16.51 55.70 58.10 73.49 2.2
02. 73.40 24.11 43.53 49.76 61.02 2.38
03. 72.83 3.59 45.41 45.55 85.48 2.72
04. 70.04 27.53 36.38 45.62 52.88 2.2
05. 69.82 9.91 32.47 33.95 73.02 1.96
06. 68.82 -1.06 37.20 37.22 91.63 2.55
07. 68.23 29.33 29.55 41.64 45.22 1.88
08. 67.16 13.98 24.62 28.31 60.41 1.63
09. 66.53 4.13 25.98 26.31 80.96 1.88
10. 60.29 -5.05 33.17 33.55 98.65 3.7
11. 63.84 34.62 23.05 41.60 33.66 1.9
12. 65.62 17.74 18.35 25.52 45.96 1.4
13. 63.39 9.34 19.39 21.52 64.28 1.67
14. 64.75 0.99 18.52 18.55 86.95 1.54
15. 61.89 -7.80 23.58 24.84 108.30 2.35
16. 62.85 36.57 17.76 40.66 25.91 1.6
17. 62.67 21.28 13.94 25.44 33.23 1.4
18. 62.32 13.09 12.29 17.96 43.18 1.38
19. 61.39 5.08 12.65 13.63 68.12 1.5
20. 64.48 -1.48 13.16 13.24 96.42 1.26
21. 62.86 -8.77 16.84 18.98 117.51 1.52
22. 60.06 40.13 13.18 42.24 18.18 2.1
23. 60.34 24.45 7.53 25.59 17.12 1.5
24. 59.56 16.46 5.70 17.42 19.09 1.37
25. 58.36 10.05 5.88 11.64 30.33 1.38
26. 61.57 3.40 5.92 6.83 60.11 1.12
27. 62.97 -2.79 6.37 6.95 113.69 1.4
28. 62.52 -9.77 10.36 14.24 133.31 1.29
29. 60.08 41.17 6.66 41.71 9.19 2.2
30. 58.86 27.62 1.57 27.66 3.24 1.8
31. 59.84 19.11 -0.09 19.11 359.72 1.46
32. 59.93 13.06 -0.57 13.08 357.49 1.28
33. 60.71 7.11 -0.85 7.16 353.16 1.10
34. 61.21 1.63 -0.03 1.63 358.82 0.97

28
Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
35. 62.23 -3.56 0.41 3.59 173.37 0.93
36. 62.19 -10.35 3.29 10.86 162.36 1.22
37. 60.41 40.94 -0.09 40.94 359.87 2.19
38. 57.36 29.81 -4.41 30.14 351.58 2.18
39. 57.56 23.00 -6.55 23.91 344.09 1.86
40. 56.41 16.14 -9.12 18.54 330.52 1.8
41. 57.67 12.23 -7.72 14.46 327.74 1.52
42. 59.27 6.56 -7.26 9.79 312.10 1.25
43. 59.93 1.60 -6.71 6.90 238.41 1.1
44. 63.19 -3.59 -6.39 7.33 240.67 0.97
45. 64.18 -9.41 -4.04 10.24 203.21 1.14
46. 59.73 44.28 -5.47 44.61 352.96 2.52
47. 57.95 32.47 -10.28 34.06 342.43 2.2
48. 56.38 25.56 -12.75 28.56 333.49 2.18
49. 56.24 20.68 -14.01 24.98 325.88 2.0
50. 57.21 15.45 -14.95 21.50 315.94 1.72
51. 52.09 12.03 -17.26 21.04 304.88 2.28
52. 56.31 7.41 -15.85 17.49 295.07 1.6
53. 58.71 2.42 -15.11 15.30 179.09 1.27
54. 62.07 -3.09 -14.27 14.61 257.77 1.19
55. 57.98 -9.32 -14.21 17.00 236.76 2.05
56. 59.36 46.82 -12.48 48.46 345.08 2.72
57. 55.18 34.83 -18.83 39.59 331.60 2.8
58. 53.74 28.34 -22.04 35.90 322.13 2.68
59. 53.76 23.23 -23.49 33.03 314.60 2.42
60. 52.86 20.66 -24.98 32.42 309.59 2.47
61. 55.85 14.92 -24.35 28.56 301.51 1.85
62. 57.35 9.61 -25.32 27.08 290.78 1.58
63. 57.42 6.72 -25.37 26.25 284.84 1.5
64. 53.14 4.16 -28.82 29.12 278.22 2.2
65. 55.90 -0.49 -27.10 27.11 268.96 2.19
66. 63.33 -5.24 -23.53 24.11 257.45 1.48

29
30
 COLOUR SENSITIVITY
BY PAD – DRY – CURE METHOD
SUMIFIX DYES DATA BASE
(After washing)

Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
01. 82.23 10.64 51.39 52.48 78.30 1.89
02. 76.59 17.85 41.77 45.42 66.87 1.82
03. 74.97 0.97 42.09 42.10 88.68 2.15
04. 73.98 20.96 35.36 41.11 59.34 1.68
05. 73.51 6.40 32.92 33.54 79.00 1.6
06. 72.22 -3.56 34.00 34.18 95.97 1.82
07. 73.97 21.61 28.08 35.43 52.41 1.22
08. 71.23 10.28 26.80 28.71 69.02 1.44
09. 70.68 1.00 25.64 25.66 87.76 1.44
10. 63.89 -6.91 31.85 32.59 102.25 2.98
11. 68.03 29.06 24.20 37.82 39.79 1.55
12. 60.85 13.68 19.73 24.01 55.27 1.56
13. 69.92 5.40 19.71 20.44 74.67 1.58
14. 68.90 -1.24 19.56 19.60 93.62 1.58
15. 65.89 -8.80 22.55 24.21 111.32 1.79
16. 67.35 31.39 19.65 37.04 32.05 1.32
17. 68.29 16.04 15.73 22.47 44.45 1.08
18. 66.48 9.28 14.07 16.85 56.57 1.14
19. 65.47 2.31 14.64 14.83 81.04 1.28
20. 68.77 -3.52 13.32 13.78 104.80 0.98
21. 66.12 -9.76 15.24 18.10 122.62 1.28
22. 66.70 32.47 13.97 35.35 23.28 1.15
23. 65.72 19.16 9.93 21.57 27.39 0.98
24. 64.97 12.21 7.18 14.17 30.47 0.92
25. 61.90 6.85 7.71 10.31 48.38 1.2
26. 66.12 0.61 7.01 7.03 85.01 0.87
27. 66.95 -4.28 7.50 8.64 119.70 0.85
28. 63.91 -10.93 10.07 14.86 137.35 1.2
29. 66.07 34.77 8.34 35.76 13.48 1.3
30. 64.58 22.39 4.07 22.75 10.31 1.12
31. 64.60 14.72 2.48 14.93 9.55 0.98
32. 64.99 9.01 1.92 9.22 12.02 0.8
33. 66.04 3.95 1.63 4.27 22.36 0.77
34. 65.31 -0.55 1.99 2.06 105.52 0.84

31
Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
35. 63.85 -5.21 2.24 5.67 156.75 0.99
36. 64.55 -10.74 3.09 11.17 163.92 1.05
37. 65.85 36.23 2.04 36.29 3.23 1.38
38. 63.81 24.76 -1.84 24.83 355.74 1.27
39. 61.83 19.22 -4.39 19.72 347.15 1.30
40. 60.77 12.23 -6.78 13.99 331.00 1.24
41. 63.26 8.23 -5.30 9.78 327.22 0.95
42. 62.23 3.52 -5.72 6.71 301.59 0.96
43. 63.31 -0.58 -5.09 5.12 263.52 0.84
44. 67.07 -4.54 -3.89 5.98 220.58 0.73
45. 66.41 -9.35 -3.91 10.13 202.73 0.97
46. 65.41 38.10 -3.37 38.25 354.95 1.43
47. 64.92 26.80 -7.30 27.78 344.76 1.2
48. 62.59 21.26 -9.69 23.36 335.50 1.3
49. 62.28 16.18 -10.78 19.44 326.33 1.2
50. 62.02 11.84 -12.02 16.87 314.56 1.1
51. 56.74 8.24 -14.03 16.27 300.41 1.52
52. 62.14 4.20 -12.57 13.25 288.46 1.00
53. 62.75 0.33 -13.14 13.14 271.43 0.98
54. 65.95 -4.09 -11.50 12.20 250.43 0.90
55. 59.68 -9.43 -13.63 16.58 235.32 1.8
56. 64.50 42.01 -10.77 43.37 345.62 1.72
57. 60.45 30.28 -16.57 34.52 331.32 1.8
58. 60.11 23.28 -19.15 30.15 320.56 1.58
59. 58.99 19.95 -21.01 28.97 313.53 1.6
60. 57.43 16.94 -22.77 28.38 306.64 1.62
61. 59.21 12.05 -22.40 25.44 298.28 1.38
62. 61.81 6.34 -21.61 21.95 286.79 1.08
63. 62.97 3.88 -20.68 21.04 280.62 0.97
64. 58.12 1.58 -24.48 24.53 273.69 1.6
65. 59.67 -2.07 -23.78 23.87 265.02 1.68
66. 65.48 -5.47 -20.48 21.20 255.06 1.2

32
33
 COLOUR SENCITIVITY
BY PAD – DRY – CURE METHOD
RIFAFIX DYES DATA BASE
(Before washing)

Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
01. 78.27 16.30 56.69 58.99 73.96 2.18
02. 72.64 20.87 45.10 49.70 65.17 2.00
03. 72.68 3.46 40.79 4094 85.15 1.95
04. 70.04 24.09 37.30 44.41 57.14 2.10
05. 67.49 7.61 33.45 34.31 77.18 2.22
06. 69.29 -2.09 32.34 32.41 93.71 1.77
07. 67.50 27.13 30.71 40.98 48.55 2.00
08. 67.04 11.97 26.26 28.86 65.49 1.5
09. 64.95 0.42 22.22 22.22 88.92 1.47
10. 65.63 -4.33 27.47 27.81 98.95 1.95
11. 65.85 29.22 24.72 38.28 40.23 1.52
12. 66.46 14.34 19.53 24.23 53.72 1.18
13. 63.68 7.47 18.53 19.98 68.04 1.18
14. 62.45 -1.02 17.82 17.85 93.28 1.54
15. 65.63 -6.69 21.16 22.20 107.54 1.45
16. 61.76 34.01 18.11 38.53 28.04 1.42
17. 64.56 18.20 15.56 23.95 40.54 1.17
18. 60.35 11.15 13.59 17.58 50.63 1.25
19. 63.76 4.60 13.81 14.55 71.57 1.00
20. 61.10 -1.87 15.79 15.90 96.77 1.30
21. 65.66 -8.02 15.15 17.14 117.88 1.02
22. 62.79 33.10 11.95 35.19 19.86 1.09
23. 62.87 20.23 9.64 22.41 25.48 0.86
24. 61.35 14.10 8.86 16.66 32.15 1.00
25. 61.30 7.03 7.94 10.60 48.49 0.98
26. 61.84 2.17 7.74 8.04 74.37 1.08
27. 61.61 -4.61 6.02 7.58 127.48 0.96
28. 64.51 -9.15 9.01 12.85 135.44 0.96
29. 60.41 36.78 7.18 37.47 11.04 1.29
30. 55.67 23.63 3.08 23.83 7.43 1.38
31. 62.97 15.78 1.73 15.87 6.25 0.74
32. 57.95 15.54 -1.26 15.59 355.38 1.10
33. 62.96 6.06 1.30 6.20 12.09 0.75
34. 60.79 0.72 1.68 2.00 68.85 0.89

34
Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
35. 59.75 -4.90 0.97 4.99 168.75 0.75
36. 63.07 -9.55 3.74 10.26 158.60 0.94
37. 58.71 39.96 1.70 39.99 2.44 1.45
38. 60.80 23.71 -1.97 23.79 355.25 1.1
39. 60.71 19.02 -2.87 19.24 351.41 1.08
40. 61.27 13.18 -3.70 13.69 344.31 0.97
41. 60.78 9.70 -5.25 11.03 331.56 0.98
42. 60.48 4.97 -4.99 7.04 314.89 0.86
43. 60.67 0.73 -5.47 5.52 277.58 0.97
44. 59.69 -5.39 -6.01 8.07 228.09 0.98
45. 60.68 -10.20 -3.42 10.76 198.51 1.20
46. 59.12 41.13 -3.91 41.31 354.57 1.52
47. 58.42 30.35 -8.58 31.54 344.22 1.35
48. 58.14 22.98 -9.92 25.03 336.64 1.23
49. 58.45 17.65 -10.96 20.77 328.15 1.0
50. 57.52 14.12 -10.99 17.89 322.11 0.98
51. 59.47 8.87 -12.47 15.30 305.43 0.96
52. 54.58 5.21 -14.26 15.18 290.08 0.87
53. 60.91 0.38 -11.27 11.28 271.96 0.92
54. 60.12 -4.39 -12.72 13.46 250.96 1.31
55. 60.46 -9.24 -10.48 13.97 228.60 1.47
56. 58.35 43.62 -10.02 44.76 347.06 1.68
57. 57.41 31.63 -13.45 34.38 336.96 1.52
58. 56.41 26.39 -17.31 31.56 326.73 1.53
59. 54.99 22.20 -18.74 29.05 319.84 1.51
60. 55.22 17.84 -20.21 26.96 311.44 1.36
61. 57.10 11.32 -19.51 22.56 300.13 1.20
62. 55.58 9.19 -21.80 23.65 292.85 1.19
63. 55.36 5.03 -22.37 22.98 282.67 1.42
64. 57.30 1.62 -22.42 22.48 274.13 1.30
65. 57.68 -2.33 -21.88 22.01 263.91 1.50
66. 61.83 -6.82 -19.28 20.45 250.51 1.37

35
36
 COLOUR SENCITIVITY
BY PAD – DRY – CURE METHOD
RIFAFIX DYES DATA BASE
(After washing)

Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
01. 81.59 11.81 53.28 54.57 77.50 2.85
02. 76.96 16.61 43.97 47.00 69.30 2.61
03. 74.67 0.37 39.56 39.56 89.47 2.25
04. 73.61 21.10 39.86 45.10 62.11 2.25
05. 69.09 4.65 33.82 34.14 82.17 2.39
06. 71.38 -4.52 31.04 31.37 98.29 2.05
07. 70.58 25.15 34.22 42.47 50.68 2.05
08. 70.64 8.27 26.70 27.95 72.79 1.08
09. 67.99 -2.39 21.38 21.51 96.39 1.79
10. 70.61 -4.23 22.38 22.41 96.41 1.95
11. 70.03 25.97 26.71 37.25 45.81 1.79
12. 70.16 10.63 20.63 23.20 62.74 1.40
13. 68.29 3.53 17.29 17.65 78.46 1.30
14. 64.68 -3.55 17.27 17.64 101.62 1.78
15. 67.39 -8.78 20.00 21.84 113.69 1.68
16. 66.91 30.46 20.47 36.70 33.89 1.78
17. 67.88 14.48 16.73 22.13 49.12 1.35
18. 65.21 7.22 13.82 15.59 62.40 1.35
19. 68.03 1.53 13.05 13.13 83.31 1.32
20. 65.29 -4.61 14.41 15.13 107.73 1.78
21. 65.39 -9.69 13.71 16.79 125.45 1.24
22. 67.20 31.54 14.54 34.73 24.75 1.45
23. 67.68 16.05 9.83 18.83 31.49 1.05
24. 65.42 10.35 9.40 13.98 42.25 1.27
25. 65.18 3.73 8.14 8.95 65.35 1.24
26. 63.56 -0.84 7.50 7.55 96.43 1.2
27. 63.92 -6.42 5.10 8.20 141.52 1.27
28. 65.84 -10.51 7.96 13.18 142.85 1.15
29. 65.61 34.40 8.79 35.50 14.34 1.90
30. 60.60 19.92 4.16 20.35 11.81 2.1
31. 67.01 11.49 2.31 11.72 11.37 1.02
32. 61.79 11.71 -0.02 11.71 359.89 1.49
33. 65.35 2.72 1.20 2.97 23.88 1.08
34. 63.45 -1.64 1.19 2.03 143.88 1.16

37
Recipe No
L* a* b* C* h K/S
35. 65.35 2.72 1.20 2.97 23.88 1.30
36. 65.91 -10.13 1.95 10.32 169.10 1.23
37. 64.83 36.76 2.82 36.87 4.38 2.35
38. 65.14 20.28 -1.27 20.32 356.43 1.42
39. 63.28 16.24 -1.81 16.34 353.65 1.35
40. 63.47 10.20 -4.03 10.97 338.44 1.28
41. 63.56 6.63 -5.38 8.54 320.91 1.14
42. 63.07 2.35 -5.32 5.82 293.87 1.09
43. 63.30 -1.28 -6.30 6.43 258.53 1.96
44. 64.45 -5.97 -6.29 8.67 226.53 1.19
45. 63.62 -10.17 -4.87 11.27 205.58 1.34
46. 64.73 39.02 -3.22 39.15 355.28 2.37
47. 63.10 26.81 -8.08 28.00 343.24 2.0
48. 62.62 19.78 -9.62 22.00 334.07 1.72
49. 63.84 13.68 -10.44 17.21 322.66 1.58
50. 63.06 10.77 -12.18 16.26 311.50 1.58
51. 62.81 7.06 -12.60 14.44 299.27 1.28
52. 63.53 2.84 -12.77 13.08 282.52 1.7
53. 63.78 -0.73 -12.47 12.49 266.66 1.03
54. 61.59 -4.85 -13.94 14.76 250.81 1.10
55. 62.29 -9.28 -13.18 16.12 234.85 1.29
56. 64.04 42.11 -10.27 43.35 346.30 2.62
57. 62.05 29.78 -15.13 33.41 333.06 2.17
58. 60.34 24.14 -18.05 30.14 323.21 2.15
59. 59.57 20.19 -20.06 28.46 315.19 2.15
60. 60.54 1.38 -23.64 23.68 273.34 2.00
61. 60.57 10.05 -21.60 23.82 294.95 1.58
62. 60.45 7.48 -22.47 23.69 288.41 1.73
63. 58.29 4.48 -24.54 24.95 280.34 1.67
64. 59.01 1.78 -23.41 22.47 275.27 1.60
65. 61.22 -2.05 -23.61 23.70 265.03 1.82
66. 64.11 -5.55 -21.98 22.68 255.74 1.10

38
 COLOUR SENCITIVITY
BY PAD – DRY – CURE METHOD
% FIXATION DATA BASE
RIFAFIX DYES

Recipe No (K/S)b (K/S)a % Fix Recipe No (K/S)b (K/S)a % Fix

1. 2.18 2.85 76.49 34. 0.89 1.16 76.72
2. 2.00 2.61 76.62 35. 0.75 1.30 57.69
3. 1.95 2.25 86.66 36. 0.94 1.23 76.42
4. 2.10 2.25 93.33 37. 1.45 2.35 40
5. 2.22 2.39 92.88 38. 1.1 1.42 77.46
6. 1.77 2.05 86.34 39. 1.08 1.35 81.48
7. 2.00 2.05 97.56 40. 0.97 1.28 84.37
8. 1.08 1.5 72 41. 0.98 1.14 85.96
9. 1.47 1.79 82.12 42. 0.86 1.09 78.89
10. 1.95 2.10 92.85 43. 0.97 1.96 49.48
11. 1.52 1.79 84.91 44. 0.98 1.19 82.35
12. 1.18 1.40 84.285 45. 1.20 1.34 89.55
13. 1.18 1.30 90.76 46. 1.52 2.37 64.13
14. 1.54 1.78 86.51 47. 1.35 2.0 67.5
15. 1.45 1.68 86.30 48. 1.23 1.72 71.51
16. 1.42 1.78 78.88 49. 1.0 1.58 63.29
17. 1.17 1.35 86.66 50. 0.98 1.58 62.02
18. 1.25 1.35 92.59 51. 0.96 1.28 75
19. 1.00 1.32 75.75 52. 0.87 1.7 51.17
20. 1.30 1.78 73.03 53. 0.92 1.03 89.32
21. 1.02 1.24 82.25 54. 1.10 1.31 83.96
22. 1.09 1.45 75.17 55. 1.29 1.47 87.75
23. 0.86 1.05 81.90 56. 1.68 2.62 64.12
24. 1.00 1.27 78.74 57. 1.52 2.17 70.04
25. 0.98 1.24 79.03 58. 1.53 2.15 71.16
26. 1.08 1.2 90 59. 1.51 2.15 70.23
27. 0.96 1.27 75.59 60. 1.36 2.00 68
28. 0.96 1.15 83.47 61. 1.20 1.58 75.94
29. 1.29 1.90 67.89 62. 1.19 1.73 68.78
30. 1.38 2.1 65.71 63. 1.42 1.67 85.02
31. 0.74 1.02 72.54 64. 1.32 1.60 82.5
32. 1.10 1.49 73.82 65. 1.50 1.82 82.4
33. 0.75 1.08 69.44 66 1.10 1.37 80.29

(K/S)b : K/S Value Before Soaping.

(K/S)a : K/S Value After Soaping.

39
Experimental techniques For paper chromatography:
For paper chromatography of the dyes, a solution of dye (1.00g/l) was prepared in aqueous
Sodium hydroxide solution (1.00g/l). The solution was allowed to stand for several days to
ensure that the reactive groups of the dyes were hydrolysed and then neutralized to pH 6 with
acetic acid. Small volumes of the dye solutions were then spotted onto a small piece (2×4
inch) of whatman #1 filter paper. After drying, the papers were developed by standing them
in a shallow pool of solvent in a closed jar and the chromatograms developed by the
ascending technique. The developing solvents used were 2-propanol/water/acetic acid
(18:17:1 by volume)

Paper chromatography of hydrolysed dyes:

The paper chromatography characteristics of 6 reactive dyes were examined by the ascending
technique using the developing solvents. The Rf value was measured at least three times and
the mean value calculated. The Rf value is the distance the dye spot travels from the origin (x)
divided by the distance travelled by the solvent front (y). It was calculated as a percentage.

Rf = (100 × x)/ y

Paper chromatography Rf values correlate well with the substantivity of various types of dyes
for cotton. This test therefore provides a rapid and inexpensive means of assessing the
relative substantivity of reactive dyes for cotton.

Dye strength comparisons:

When the strengths of two dyes of similar hue, brightness and fastness properties are being
assessed absorptiometry is often employed. However, this does not always give an accurate
estimate of the colour that will be achieved when a substrate is dyed, either with the
individual dye, or the dye in combination with other dyes. For this reason reflectance
measurements on dyed substrate are often used instead.
This method suggested here would be to apply the individual dyes to a substrate by the
approved procedure, at a medium depth, and also carry out a blank dyeing of the substrate
with everything except the dye in the bath. The blank and the dyed substrate will then be
measured and the hue angle of the dyed sample determined.

The purity of the dyes was checked by chromatographic techniques. The Rf values of the dyes
are given below it shows that Rifafix dyes are low substantive then Sumifix dye for Cotton.

Rf values of dyes

Rifafix Yellow = 70.76

Rifafix Red = 56.92
Rifafix Blue = 64.61
Sumifix Yellow = 52.36
Sumifix Red = 46.15
Sumifix Blue = 49.23

40
Conclusion:
Based on the concentration by weight of the initial solution of the dyes it is observed that the
Rifafix yellow and blue dye absorbs more than Sumifix yellow and blue at any concentration.
While absorbance of Sumifix red dye is more than the absorbance of Rifafix red dyes. (Table-1)

Table:1 Spectrophotometer data of Rifafix and Sumifix. Reactive

(Yellow, Red, Blue) Dyes.

Dye
Sample λmax Absorbance of Absorbance of
concentration
No. nm Rifa fix dyes Sumifix dyes
gm
-3
01 2.5 × 10 0.422 0.421
-
02 7.5 × 10 3 1.204 1.202
- 418
03 1.5 × 10 2 2.615 2.332
-
04 2.5 × 10 2 3.053 3.050
-
05 2.5 × 10 3 0.408 0.457
-
06 7.5 × 10 3 1.321 1.437
- 552
07 1.5 × 10 2 2.602 2.741
-
08 2.5 × 10 2 3.514 3.562
-
09 2.5 × 10 3 0.314 0.313
-
10 7.5 × 10 3 1.011 0.906
- 628
11 1.5 × 10 2 1.739 1.726
-
12 2.5 × 10 2 2.145 2.126

Colour Measurement:
The reflectance values and the corresponding CIE L,a,b,c & h coordinates & K/S values (at
the appropriate λ max) for each target shade of the dyed samples were measured. This allows
splitting of the total colour difference ΔE* into three parts lightness difference ΔL* hue
difference ΔH* and chroma difference ΔC*

Table-2: Limits of Accuracy for Right-First time dyeing.

Factors ΔE (JPC 70)

Matching tolerance 0.3~0.5
Cotton variability in dyeing 2.0
Variability in water supply 3.0
Computer prediction < 1.0
Instability of dye solution 3.0~5.0
Variation in weighing of 5% 2.5
Lab dyeing reproducibility 0.8
Spectrophotometer reproducibility. 0.05~0.2

Comparison of target shades of individual dyes with respect to specific target shades by
changing the conditions parameter the colour differences can be quantified by ΔE according
to equation
ΔE= [(ΔL*) 2 + (Δa*) 2 + (Δb*) 2] ½

41
Commercial tolerance is often between 0.3-1 ΔE units. For target shade No.1 (Table-3), it was
observed for Rifafix dyes the shade obtained by changing the curing time and also by
decreasing the amount of urea is in acceptable range of tolerance limit. While for target shade
No.1 (Table-4) with Sumifix dyes the acceptable shades are obtained by change in curing time
and also by an increase or decrease in the amount of urea. For target shade No.2 (Table-5) with
Rifafix dyes the shade are obtained either by decrease or increase in amount of urea and at low
pH lie in the tolerance limit. For target shade No.2 (Table-6) with Sumifix dyes the dyeing do
not match the target colour by increase in curing time, decrease in quantity of urea and at low
pH. For target shade No.3 (Table-7) with Rifafix dyes the acceptable shades are obtained by
increase in curing time, increase or decrease in quantity of urea and at high pH. For target
shade No.3 (Table-8) with Sumifix dyes by the increase in curing time only the shade is
acceptable.
Table-3: Target Shade No1 with Rifafix dyes.
Sample Changes K/S ΔE ΔL* Δa* Δb* ΔC Δh
No
01 Curing time 0.23 0.95 0.40 0.36 -0.78 0.85 -0.73
02 Quantity of Urea Increased 0.274 0.44 -0.29 0.26 0.21 -0.46 -0.78
03 Quantity of Urea decreased 0.277 1.12 -0.83 0.36 0.67 0.48 1.05
04 High pH 0.281 1.03 0.68 -0.63 0.45 -0.81 0.54
05 Low pH 0.276 0.97 -0.41 -0.09 0.8 8 -0.89 0.56
06 DAP 5g/l 0.35 1.27 -1.06 0.69 0.13 1.88 -0.77

Table-4: Target Shade No1 with Sumifix dyes.

Sample Changes K/S ΔE ΔL* Δa* Δb* ΔC Δh
No
01 Curing time 0.23 0.35 0.05 -0.04 -0.35 -0.33 -0.13
02 Quantity of Urea Increased 0.19 0.68 0.68 -0.02 -0.10 -1.82 -1.04
03 Quantity of Urea decreased 0.228 0.39 0.08 0.37 -0.11 0.08 -0.37
04 High pH 0.20 1.22 0.25 -0.56 -1.06 -2.50 -0.70
05 Low pH 0.192 1.41 0.98 0.32 -0.97 -1.09 -0.87
06 DAP 5g/l 0.347 1.84 1.23 0.89 -1.04 -0.32 -0.45

Table-5: Target Shade No 2 with Rifafix dyes.

Sample Changes K/S ΔE ΔL* Δa* Δb* ΔC Δh
No
01 Curing time 0.159 1.02 0.69 0.71 -0.28 0.89 -0.92
02 Quantity of Urea Increased 0.20 0.57 -0.26 0.50 0.11 0.44 -0.87
03 Quantity of Urea decreased 0.22 0.91 0.63 0.38 -0.54 -0.45 -0.32
04 High pH 0.214 1.19 1.06 0.69 0.13 -1.26 0.39
05 Low pH 0.216 0.64 0.62 0.15 -0.09 0.16 0.07
06 DAP 5g/l 0.256 2.26 -1.01 1.36 -1.51 1.25 -0.97

Table-6: Target Shade No 2 with Sumifix dyes.

Sample Changes K/S ΔE ΔL* Δa* Δb* ΔC Δh
No
01 Curing time 0.195 1.57 0.31 -1.36 0.74 -0.77 0.49
02 Quantity of Urea Increased 0.18 0.74 -0.05 0.15 -0.72 0.43 -0.59
03 Quantity of Urea decreased 0.194 1.20 -0.48 -0.88 -0.67 -0.09 0.49
04 High pH 0.178 2.13 1.95 -0.78 0.40 -2.40 1.34
05 Low pH 0.178 0.66 0.16 -0.25 -0.59 0.02 -0.64
06 DAP 5g/l 0.242 2.15 -1.79 1.01 0.62 0.74 0.93
42
Table-7: Target Shade No 3 with Rifafix dyes.
Sample Changes K/S ΔE ΔL* Δa* Δb* ΔC Δh
No
01 Curing time 0.175 0.46 0.42 0.12 -0.16 -0.22 -0.19
02 Quantity of Urea Increased 0.217 0.88 -0.70 -0.19 0.60 0.72 0.46
03 Quantity of Urea decreased 0.22 0.99 -0.71 -0.63 0.28 0.30 0.62
04 High pH 0.218 0.48 0.27 0.30 0.26 0.29 -0.35
05 Low pH 0.20 1.33 -0.04 -0.86 1.02 1.38 0.83
06 DAP 5g/l 0.347 3.48 -3.18 -1.05 -0.98 -1.19 1.93

Table-8: Target Shade No 3 with Sumifix dyes.

Sample Changes K/S ΔE ΔL* Δa* Δb* ΔC Δh
No
01 Curing time 0.15 0.49 -0.08 0.30 0.38 0.11 -0.40
02 Quantity of Urea Increased 0.19 1.28 1.03 0.50 -0.58 -0.93 -0.08
03 Quantity of Urea decreased 0.204 1.40 -0.05 -0.32 -1.36 -0.59 1.27
04 High pH 0.232 2.33 1.30 1.50 1.23 1.50 -1.31
05 Low pH 0.20 2.04 -0.05 4.59 -1.28 1.37 -2.03
06 DAP 5g/l 0.273 1.22 -1.03 0.65 0.03 -0.33 -0.65

43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
Build-up properties:

The use of a combination of different types of dyes to achieve deep shades requires the
components to have a high degree of compatibility. Proper selection requires to build-up
properties of the individual dyes to be known. The colour yields of the Rifafix and Sumifix
reactive dyes studied are shown in fig.

Dye concentration Vs K/S values Dye concentration Vs K/S Value

5 5
K/S

K/S
3

K/s Rifafix Blue

K/s Rifafix Red K/s Sumifix Blue
K/s Rifafix Yellow K/s Sumifix Red
1 K/s Sumifix Yellow
1
0 2 4 6
0 2 4 6
Dye concentration (%)
Dye concentration (%)

For each complete dying the K/S values was determine at different concentration. For both
the dyes the values of K/S increases as the dye concentration increases, which shows good
build up developing. Sumifix red dye shows a good build up devolving at low concentration
as compared to Rifafix red, while Sumifix (blue and yellow) and Rifafix (blue and yellow)
behave in more or less same pattern.

Selection of optimum dye combinations of recipe preparation:

We have already considered how a typical computer formulation program can be designed to
predict all possible recipes from a given dye selection to match a given colour target. The
resultant recipes can be sorted in order of cost or metameric index. Cost and metamerism are
not of course the only factors to be considered in choosing the optimum dye combination.
Before a final recipe is selected from the colour-matching computer we must take into
consideration the other factors such as compatibility of dyes, fastness characteristics, level-
dyeing properties and stability of recipes.
In addition to the primary requirements for the selection of optimum dye recipe such as
fastness and cost effectiveness the following factors may also be considered.

Colour yield and build-up performance.

Compatibility, i.e. rate of dyeing, build-up, blocking effects on other all of which
must be assessed by reference to manufactures literature or by practical dyeing tests.
Level-dyeing behaviour assessed by strike-migration test.
Colour constancy in different illuminates, the object being to select where possible
only those dyes, which show minimal, shade alteration in such circumstances.
Selection of homogeneous dyes, where dye makers do not supply information on this
aspect, the dye samples are subjected to chromatographic analysis or by trichromatic
triangle.

53
References:
1. CIE Publ. No.15.2, Colorimetry, Second Edition (1986). (No.15.3 to be published).

2. R.McDonald, Acceptability and perceptibility Decisions using the CMC Colour Difference
formula, Textile Chemist and Colorists 20-6, (1988).

3. J Park, JSDC, 107 (1991)93.

4. R. Stanziola, Col. Res.Appl., 5(1980)129.

5. D.G.Phillips, Col. Res. Appl., 7(1982)28.

6. D.H.Alman, Col. Res. Appl, 11 (1986)153.

7. B.Sluban, Col. Res. Appl., 20 (1995) 226.

8. F J J Clarke, R McDonald and B Rigg, JSDC, 100 (1984) 128,281.

9. H.Zolinger, Color Chemistry, Wiley - VCH, 380 (2003).

10. A.R.Horrocks, Handbook of Technical Textile, Wood head Publishing, 211 (2000).

11. V.Globo, Influence of Anionic Dye Sorption Properties on the Color of Wool Top,
Tex.Res.Journal, (2004).

12. R.McDonaldd, Color Physics for Industry, SDC Bradford, U.K, 358(1997).

13. W.F.Beech, Fiber Reactive Dyes, Logos Press Limited, London, 343 (1970).

14. S.Asolekar, Environmental Problems in Chemical Processing of Textiles, IIT, Delhi,

18(2000).

15. P.Fowler, New Trichromatic System for enhanced Dyeing by the Exhaust Process,
American Dyestuff Reporter (1997).

16. Imada, K.Harroda.N.1992, Recent developments in the optimized dyeing of cellulose

using reactive dyes.J.Soc.Dyers & Colourist108: 210-214.

17. AATCC Test Method 153 – 1985:Color Measurement of Textile: Instrumental,

Technical Manual of the AATCC, 272 –277(1995).

54