Quality Control (QC) in Garments

(Class Notes)

Table of Contents
No. 1. Lectures INTRODUCTION Page 3

2. 3.

TEXTILE PROCESSES FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION

Quality Control Quality Assurance Measurement Anthropometry Input / Output Process

4 4 5 5 6 6 7 8 9 10 11 13 14 15 17 18

4. 5.

STEPS IN GARMENT PREPARATION CUTTING

Some common defects in Fabrics Methods to inspect the defects in Fabric

6.

SHIRT (TYPES & PARTS)

Cutting Process Notches Cut Plan

7.

SHIRT (Miscellaneous)

Types of Shirts Parts of Shirts Collar Neck Cuff Pleat Dart Fitting Drape Male Shirt Measurement

8.

SEAM

9.

ORDER SHEET

Types of Seams ISO Stitches Classification

1. INTRODUCTION

Quality Control Quality control (QC) is a procedure or set of procedures intended to ensure that a manufactured product or performed service adheres to a defined set of quality criteria or meets the requirements of the client or customer. Quality Assurance Quality assurance (QA) is defined as a procedure or set of procedures intended to ensure that a product or service under development (before work is complete, as opposed to afterwards) meets specified requirements. QC is similar to, but not identical with, QA.QA & QC sometimes are expressed together as a single expression, quality assurance and control (QA/QC). Measurement

o 1 = 8 points (8 sutar)

o 10 mm = 1 cm o 1 = 2.54 cm o Metric measures (meter/centimeters) are used in UK & USA o Imperial measures (foot/Inches) are used in China & Korea o Anthropometry is the science that deals with measurement of the size, weight, and proportions of the human body. o 1 inch or 1 o 1 foot or 1 Anthropometry Anthropometry is the science dealing with measurement of the size, weight, and proportions of the human body.

Input / Output Process (Example)

2. TEXTILE PROCESSES Ginning/Synthesizing

Spinning Weaving/Loaming/Knitting Processing (Dying + Printing) Garments

3. FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION

Some common defects in Fabrics Slub, Barre, Crease, Stains, Hole, Contamination, Others Methods to inspect the defects in Fabric
AQL (Acceptance Quality Level):

In this method defects are marked as Major, Minor & Critical. (Hole in fabric is always critical.)

4 Point System 0 3 defect is given 1 point 3 6 defect is given 2 point 6 9 defect is given 3 point 9 above inches defect is given 4 point (Hole in fabric secures 4 points) Suppose, a sample of fabric, taken from a selected role of fabric, secures 42 points; we can calculate the total points, secured by the rest of the role, as follows: Points secured by a Role of Fabric = Number of point x 39.36 x 100 Length of Role x Width of Fabric = 42 x 39.36 x 100 = 35 points approximately 83 x 57 Since the International Standard for acceptance is 30-33 points, and we know 35 > 30-33, so we will reject our selected Role of fabric.
o o o o GSD (General Sewing Data):

GSD (General Sewing Data) is a system that assists us in our continued improvement of quality and productivity. On completion every garment has a detailed method description for every operation in the sewing process, ensuring consistency in production and safeguarding quality standards. GSD is a computer database used for methods engineering and also provides accurate and consistent time standards. The GSD method describes the manufacture in terms of the exact motions required to produce garments in the required time and to the required quality standards. 4. STEPS IN GARMENT PREPARATION Pattern Making

Cutting Stitching/Sewing Washing Finishing Packing Dispatch 5. CUTTING Cutting Process

i.

Layering (Single layer of fabric is known as Ply)

o Relaxation (The relaxation time of Lycra is 8-24 times more than other fabrics)

o Alignment o Creasing o Types of layers Face to Face Face to Back ii. Tracing

o Firmly grip measuring instrument o Maximum use of fabric o Accurate usage of Pattern iii. Cutting

o Pitch (Alignment of Cutter) o Cutting Ratio

o Steps in Cutting 1. Small Parts 2. Front and Back Parts 3. Assembly iv. v.

Cut Parts Checking & Numbering Bundling

Notches (Notches are the cuts that are used to line up two or more pieces of fabric to ( join together.) o Slit: used in common dresses o V Notch: used in Curtains etc (Inner V Notch, Outer V Notch) o T Notch: used in Shoes o Castle Notch: used in heavy materials like leather jackets & uppers

Cut Plan For an order of 10000 pieces of garments having a consumption of 1.5 m/ piece, the Total Fabric Required will be 1.5 x 10000 = 15000 metres. If only 10000 metres of fabric is available in our inventory, how will we set our Cut Plan? Note: Fabric required for a piece of garment is known as consumption. Pieces = Available Fabric in Inventory / consumption = 10000 / 1.5 = 6667 pieces We know the ratio of size S 1 S = 1/6 x 6667 = 1111 pieces M = 2/6 x 6667 = 2222 pieces L = 2/6 x 6667 = 2222 pieces XL = 1/6 x 6667 = 1111 pieces : M 2 : L 2 : XL 1

6. SHIRT (TYPES & PARTS) Types of Shirts o T-Shirts

o Polo Shirts

Parts of Shirts
o Shirt (Front Parts)

o Shirt (Back Parts)

7. SHIRT (Miscellaneous) Collar o Two basic types of Collars: i. One piece collar ii. Two piece collar o Parts of a Collar:

o Miscellaneous Types of Collars

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Neck o Types of Neck in garments (t.b.s)

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Cuff

Pleat o Knife Pleat

o Box Pleat

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o Inverted Pleat

o Side Pleat

o Miscellaneous Pleats

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Dart

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Fitting

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o o o o o

Fitted Close Fitting Loose Fitting Semi Fitted Very Loose Fitting

Drape o Intro Drape is the way that fabric hangs. The process of draping involves sewing loosely hanging material to a garment to create a flowing look. Garment drape has received major attention of designers from the beginning. They have exploited this property of fabric in creating new styles according to changing fashion trends. Garment either hangs down from the shoulder or from the waist and drapes over the hip forming waves or folds at hemline. Quality of folds viz. number, shape and size of folds in a garment depends upon several factors. Garment either hangs down from the shoulder or from the waist and drapes over the hip forming waves or folds at hemline. Quality of folds viz. number, shape and size of folds in a garment depends upon several factors. o Two basic types of Drapes: i. ii. Natural Drape Induced drape

Male Shirt Measurement

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8. SEAM

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Seam is the series of stitches.

Types of Seams

There are four common types of Seams. o Super Imposed Seam

o Bounded Seam

o Flat Seam

o Lapped Seam

ISO Stitches Classification

18 1. Class 100: Single Thread Chain Stitch 2. 3. 4. 5.

6. 7.

It is used for bottom hamming in dressing pants etc. (Turpie) Class 200: Hand Stitch Class 300: Lock Stitch / Single Needle & Lock Stitch / Double Needle (common sewing machines) Class 400: Multi Thread Chain Stitch / Feed of the Arm machine / Feedo Machine Class 500: Over-edge Stitch i. Over-lock Machine (Three Thread Machine) One Needle, Two loppers thread ii. Safety Machine (Five Thread Machine) Two Needles, Three loppers thread Class 600: Flat Lock (Important in Knitting Industry) Class 700: Bar tack Machine (used for Strength and Design) SPI of Bar tack Machines is 35 to 70 stitches. (SPI = Stitches Per Inch)

9. ORDER SHEET

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