WHY ARE COASTS IMPORTANT AND HOW ARE THEY USED?

Tourism. There are many resorts along coasts and tourists enjoy using the coast e.g. swimming and sunbathing. Sport. Many sport use the coast e.g. sailing, surfing, diving, kite surfing and links golf. Ecosystems. There are many unique ecosystems along the coast like mangroves, sand dunes and estuarine. Also the biodiversity along the coast is varied and unique. Fishing. Oceans are full of fish (although supplies are declining). Many people make their living from catching and selling fish. Aquaculture (seafood farming), also takes place along the coast. Oil and gas reserves. Much of the world's oil and gas is found under the oceans. Ownership of these reserves is very important. Housing. Many people choose to live along the coast because of its beauty and the relaxing lifestyle Industry. Many industries like to locate near the coast because it is easy to trade. Transport. The oceans are used to transport people and goods. Many ports are found in coastal areas and help allow trade between countries. Walkers. Many people enjoy walking, cycling or riding along coastal paths and coastal areas.

WHY ARE COASTS UNDER THREAT?

Sea level rises caused by global warming. Low lying countries like Bangladesh will be particularly vulnerable. Pollution from sewage discharge , but also accidents like the recent BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. Litter. Litter thrown into the sea can also kill animals. Turtles often mistake plastic bags for jellyfish. Overfishing. Many fish stocks around the world are being over fished to dangerous levels. Erosion. Many coastlines are being eroded by stronger storms and also rising seal levels. Tropical storms. Because of rising sea levels, the frequency of storms and magnitude (strength) are increasing causing flooding, storm surges and wind damage. Privatisation. More and more stretches of the beach are privately owned (houses, hotels, etc.). This is making it increasingly hard for locals to access previously open areas. The privatisation of areas is also increasing the cost of land, making it less affordable for many residents.

Waves
Waves are formed because of friction between the wind and the sea. Although it appears that water particles in waves are moving forward, in reality it is only the shape and the energy of the wave that is moving. Water particles tend to move up and down in a circular motion. When waves near the coast, the bottom of the wave is slowed by friction with the sea bed. Because the top of the wave is experiencing less friction, it moves faster and eventually topples over the bottom of the wave and breaks. The size of the wave is effected by three factors: Duration of wind Strength of wind Fetch (the distance that a wave travels)

Wave Terminology Crest: The top of the wave. Trough: The low area in between two waves. Wavelength: The distance between two crests or two troughs. Wave height: The distance between the crest and the trough. Wave Frequency: The number of waves per minute. Velocity: The speed that a wave is traveling. It is influenced by the wind, fetch and depth of water. Swash: The movement of water and load up the beach. Backwash: The movement of water and load back down the beach.

Destructive waves: Destructive waves have a fairly weak swash because the wave breaks almost vertically. However, it does have a much stronger backwash. Because the backwash is stronger than the swash, destructive waves erode and transport material away from beaches. Constructive waves: Constructive waves have a strong swash and a much weaker backwash. Because the swash is stronger than the backwash they tend to deposit material and build beaches up.

Coastal Erosion (types of erosion)

Coasts being at the boundary of the land and the sea are extremely vulnerable to erosion. They are attacked by the immense power of the sea and the weather. Later you will look at one of the fastest eroding coastlines in the world; the Holderness coastline in NE England which is eroding at over 2 metres a year. The main ways that the sea erodes the coast are: Hydraulic Pressure: This is when sea water and air get trapped in cracks. The increasing pressure of the water and air cause the rocks to crack. Corrasion (abrasion): Rocks been thrown into the cliffs by waves and breaking off bits of the cliff. Corrosion (solution): The slight acidity of sea water causing bits of the cliff to dissolve. Attrition: Rocks, sand and stones being thrown into each other by the sea current and waves. Wave Pounding: This is the immense power of waves crashing into cliffs that causing them to weaken. Sub aerial weathering: This is the top of cliffs being attacked by the weather, making the cliffs weaker and less stable. Wind, rain, the heat and the cold can all cause the cliffs to be weathered.

Wave Cut Notch and Wave Cut Platform

Wave cut platforms are made in a similar ways to waterfalls and gorges (rivers topic). At high tide the power of the sea attacks and erodes the bottom of the cliff. Over time this erosion creates a wave cut notch (basically an eroded hole at the bottom of the cliff). As the wave cut notch gets bigger, the weight of rock above the notch gets greater. Eventually the cliff can not support its own weight and it collapses. The process then starts again, with the erosion of the sea making a new wave cut notch. As the process continues the cliff starts to move backwards (retreat). Because the cliff is moving backwards a wave cut platform (an expanse of bare rock) is created. Wave cut platforms are only visible at low tide.

Wave Cut Platform

Caves, Arches, Stacks and Stumps

Caves, arches, stacks and stumps are usually found on headlands, where wave refraction is causing erosion on three sides. The waves always look for weaknesses in the headland (cracks and joints). If they find a crack or a joint they will start attacking it. Hydraulic pressure will be the main type of erosion. Overtime the crack may turn into a cave. Slowly the cave will get bigger and cut all the way through the headland, making an arch. As the arch gets bigger the weight of the arch roof gets too great and it collapses, leaving a stack. The stack is then eroded by the sea and weathered from the air leaving a stump. Blowhole: Sometimes the sea may erode through to the top of the headland (following a large crack). If this happens a blowhole is created.