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Pierre Rival: The 80 best places to eat out in Paris | Travel | The Observer
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Some like it haute

The 80 best places to eat out in Paris. Food critic Pierre Rival rounds up the best bistros, brasseries and gourmet restaurants
The Observer, Sunday 30 April 2006
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Whether it's a table by the Seine or overlooking the rooftops, critic Pierre Rival and photographer Christian Sarramon know the best places to eat - and where the decor is as original as the food. In their latest book, Gourmet Bistros and Restaurants of Paris, they list their favourites. Brasseries the locals love Balzar Beautifully preserved local restaurant with a crowd of loyal patrons, including lots of academics and intellectuals from the Sorbonne. 49 rue des coles, 75005 (01 43 54 16 67) Au Boeuf Couronn Traditional meeting place for butchers and livestock merchants. It remains one of the best meat restaurants in the capital and has kept its typically 1950s decor. 188 boulevard Jean-Jaurs, 75019 (01 42 39 44 44) Bofinger Authentic art deco interiors and a brasserie menu from Alsace which hasn't changed for a century. Useful for the nearby Opra Bastille. 5-7 rue de la Bastille, 75004 (01 42 72 87 82) Brasserie Lipp A hangout for the intelligentsia since 1880, with original art deco design and a trad Alsatian menu. 151 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 (01 45 48 72 93) Le Caf du Commerce On fine days they open the roof of this former canteen for car workers, now famous for the excellence of its meats. 51 rue du Commerce, 75015 (01 45 75 03 27) Charlot-Roi des Coquillages An exuberant, marvellously detailed art deco interior and the most generous trays of seafood in Paris. 12 place Clichy, 75009 (01 53 20 48 00) La Coupole Montparnesse landmark dating from 1927, with wall paintings by Lger and his contemporaries. Once the biggest in Paris, with a vibe to match. 102 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75014 (01 43 20 14 20)
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2006/apr/30/travelfoodanddrink.foodanddrink/print
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Le Grand Colbert This fab reconstruction of a mid 19th-century interior is almost better than the real thing. 4 rue Vivienne, 75002 (01 42 86 87 88) Julien One of the most sumptuous art nouveau bouillons (working man's food hall) with a mahogany bar . 16 rue du Fauborg-Saint-Denis, 75010 (01 47 70 12 06) Mollard A beautiful station brasserie with art nouveau mosiacs and tiles on the walls and great sea food that has regained its former popularity. 115 rue Saint-Lazare, 75008 (01 43 87 50 22) Le Train Bleu Stunningly ornate, very grand station buffet. Place Louis-Arnaud, 75012 (01 43 43 09 06) Affordable bistros Allard Cosy dining room in pretty 18th-century building serving cassoulet, coq au vin and other classics. 1 rue de l'peron, 75006 (01 43 26 48 23) Au Petit Riche Once an eatery for coachmen, now serving traditional specialities from the Loire Valley. 25 rue Le Peletier, 75009 (01 47 70 68 68) Aux Lyonnais Alain Ducasse-owned bistro serving the sort of food you'd find in a Lyon tavern, with tiles straight out of the Paris Metro. 32 rue Saint-Marc, 75002 (01 42 96 65 04) Le Baratin The interior is nothing special, but Raquel Carena's cooking is definitely worth a visit. 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 (01 43 49 39 70) Bistro Flaubert Next door to Michel Rostang's main restaurant, with old Michelin guides on the walls and delicious little stuffed vegetables when in season. 10 rue Gustave-Flaubert, 75017 (01 42 67 05 81) Bistrot Paul Bert A French version of the wine bar, where you keep a tab running for the evening, and what you eat is as important as what you drink. Over 300 wines are accompanied by solid offerings like velout of lentils with foie gras or crunchy pig snout. 18 rue Paul-Bert, 75011 (01 43 72 24 01) Chardenoux An authentic workers' canteen with a 1904 interior that has not changed a bit. The home cooking is very popular with the regulars. 1 rue Jules-Valls, 75011 (01 43 71 49 52)
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L'Escargot Montorgueil A celebration of the snail, including a spiral staircase and gastropod lace curtains, dating from 1880. Follow fabulous plates of escargots with lamb, veal or duck l'orange. 38 rue Montorgueil, 75001 (01 42 36 83 51) L'Os Moelle Talented young chef Thierry Faucher serves excellent, updated French classics at very reasonable prices at this unfussy, laid-back establishment. The set menu is decided for you but the results are always wonderful. 3 rue Vasco de Gama, 75015 (01 45 57 27 27) Le Polidor Former crmerie and hangout for penniless Left Bank writers; now a student restaurant in the heart of the Latin Quarter. Still serves substantial, soulful food for a few pennies. 41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 (01 43 26 95 34) Le Rgalade This is where the bistro revolution started in 1991. Yves Camdeborde bet on his native Barn produce and brought a taste for simple, affordable food back to Paris. He has handed over to Bruno Doucet now, but the place is still a must, and it's still just as hard to get a table. 49 avenue Jean-Moulin, 75014 (01 45 45 68 58) Le Repaire de Cartouche Modern bistro cuisine delightfully served by Rodolphe Paquin from Normandy, one of four disciples expertly trained by Christian Constant at the Crillon. 8 boulevard des Filles-du-Calvaire or 99 rue Amelot, 75011(01 47 00 25 86) Le Vieux Bistrot On the Ile de la Cit, in the shadow of Notre Dame, this authentic old bistro serves wonderful traditional home cooking. Think boeuf bourguignon and similar classics. 14 rue du Clotre Notre Dame, 75004 (01 43 54 18 95) Grand and opulent Alain Ducasse It was Alain Ducasse who, following in the tradition of Escoffier, kickstarted the renaissance of great gastronomy in Paris's grand hotels. You can't miss the magnificent contemporary chandelier with its cloud of pendant glass drops, but the best reason for coming here is still the top-notch kitchen headed by Christophe Moret, formerly of Spoon. Think modern haute cuisine which puts the emphasis firmly on the quality of its ingredients. Htel Plaza Athne, 25 avenue Montaigne, 75008 (01 53 67 65 00) Les Ambassadeurs Ducasse proteg Jean-Franoise Piege has earned two Michelin stars and this splendid, marbled interior is a perfect match for him. Htel de Crillon,10 place de la Concorde, 75009 (01 44 71 16 16) Le Bristol A hotel so grand it has a winter and a summer dining room. Eric Frechon's spring menu features scallops, eel, sweetbreads, asparagus and Normandy beef, all beautifully prepared. 112 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honor, 75008 (01 53 43 43 00)
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Le Cinq Award-winning chef and sommelier Philippe Legendre and Eric Beaumard reign over a triple Michelin-starred table at this legendary hotel. George V, 31 avenue George V, 75008 (01 49 52 71 54) Le Grand Vfour Guy Martin's cuisine is up-to-the-minute but still satisfies those who are nostalgic for the classics. 17 rue de Beaujolais, 75001 (01 42 96 56 27) Le Grande Cascade Napoleon III's private pavilion is now a restaurant with terrace for promenading Parisians. On the menu? Foie gras, caviar and other treats. Allee de Longchamp, Bois de Boulogne, 75016 (01 45 27 33 51) Laprouse Worth a visit for its private dining rooms and belle poque atmosphere. 51 quai des Grands-Augustins, 75006 (01 43 26 68 04) Lasserre In the Fifties Salvador Dali was a fan; now Lasserre's opening roof makes it a hot location for summer dining. Great starters and a wonderful signature dish of sole in asparagus cream. 17 Avenue Franklin-Roosevelt, 75008 (01 43 59 53 43) Laurent One of the high altars of Parisian gastronomy; chef Alain Perouget brilliantly interprets a menu first devised by Joel Robuchon. 41 Avenue Gabriel, 75008 (01 42 25 00 39) Lucas Carton Carved wooden art nouveau panels and booths are the setting for Alain Senderens' Asian-influenced menu. He recently returned his three Michelin stars in a quest for simplicity and affordability. 9 place de la Madeleine, 75008 (01 42 65 22 90) Maxim's Now owned by Pierre Cardin, Maxim's is a Parisian institution, still more theatre than restaurant. Sumptuously decorated and popular with Paris's fashionistas. 3 rue Royale, 75008 (01 42 65 27 94) La Mditerrane With a splendid terrace looking onto the Theatre de l'Odon, and chef Denis Rippa from L'Ambroisie, this fish restaurant has what it needs to become a Parisian great. 2 Place de l'Odon, 75006 (01 43 26 02 30) Le Meurice Yannick Alleno has turned this rather dozy place into one of the most dynamic restaurants in Paris. Enjoy the contrast between rigorous, inventive cuisine and Louis XV decor, as recreated by artisans at the beginning of the 20th century. 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001 (01 44 58 10 55)
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Le Pr Catelan Masterly chef Frdric Anton and an idyllic 18thcentury setting in the Bois de Boulogne . route de Suresnes, 75016 (01 44 14 41 14) Le Procope The oldest caf-restaurant in Paris opened in 1686. Seafood is a speciality alongside simple, traditional but well-prepared fare. 13 rue de L'Ancienne-Comdie, 75006 (01 40 46 79 00) Prunier A monument to art deco, entirely dedicated to caviar and seafood, which is enjoying renewed favour with the Parisian smart set. 16 Avenue Victor-Hugo, 75116 (01 44 17 35 85) Le Relais Plaza Decor inspired by a 1930s ocean liner and contemporary, chic brasserie cuisine devised by Alain Ducasse. Htel Plaza Athne, 21 avenue Montaigne, 75008 (01 53 67 64 00) Taillevent Old-fashioned, top-of-the-range haute cuisine in the former residence of the Duc de Morny. This is fine dining at its best. 15 rue Lamennais, 75008 (01 44 95 15 01) Cool and chic: The hot 10 L'Ambroisie Bernard Pacaud wows the most jaded palate at L'Ambroisie, one of Paris's peak gastronomic experiences. 9 place des Vosges, 75004 (01 42 78 51 45) L'Apicius Unassuming talent and sublime dishes (including the best calf's head in Paris) from chef JeanPierre Vigato in a grand nineteenth-century building off the Champs-Elyses. Its princely garden is owned by film-maker Luc Besson. 20 rue d'Artois, 75008 (01 43 80 19 66) L'Arpge Here, the restrained decor allows the culinary creations to stand out. Passard is one of the most original chefs in Paris; his almost minimalist gastronomy puts vegetable dishes at the heart of the menu, but he is also a master at cooking meats to perfection. 84 rue de Varenne, 75007 (01 47 05 09 06) L'Astrance Pascal Barbot is the d'Artagnan of the new band of Parisian cooks. Audacity, flair and generosity counterbalance a rather provocative streak. Flavours jump off the plate and his restaurant, with its modern but discreet decor, has become a hot spot of Parisian gastronomy. 4 rue Beethoven, 75016 (01 40 50 84 40) L'Atelier de Jol Robuchon Gastronomic snack bar created by international restaurateur Robuchon, where customers perch on bar stools round an open kitchen and watch smartly
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uniformed kitchen staff slice Spanish ham and prepare langoustines. The result is a sort of very posh French sushi bar. Htel Pont-Royal, 5 rue Montalembert, 75007 (01 42 22 56 56) Le Barfly Barfly is an oversized lounge, an imaginary American bar seen through the wrong end of a giant kaleidoscope. New York as only Paris dreams it, designed by Miguel Cancio Martins. 49-51 avenue George V, 75008 (01 53 67 84 60) Barlotti The fourth venture from the new prince of the trendy restaurant scene Raymond Visan. With decor inspired by Blade Runner and a menu of French and Italian basics, fashionable Parisians come here to experience what they call 'le fooding'. 35 place du March-Saint-Honor, 75001 (01 44 86 97 97) Bon Satin-lined walls, candles, a fireplace and a lovers' dining room: chef Bruno Brangea has his work cut out to compete with Philippe Starck's take on Napoleon III furnishings, including buttonstuffed walls and a rhinoceros head. 25 rue de la Pompe, 75016 (01 40 72 70 00) Le Caf Marly The terrace here looks directly onto the Louvre pyramid, and Olivier Gagnre has done some flamboyant decor with chairs featuring brass rings and feet and a Murano chandelier. Le Louvre, Cour Napolon,93 rue de Rivoli, 75001 (01 49 26 06 60) Guy Savoy With his cooking rooted in the terroirs, Guy Savoy never combines more than three flavours and painstakingly sources his ingredients. Game and truffles (think artichoke soup with black truffles) are specialities. Committed gourmands shouldn't miss a pilgrimage to this three Michelin-starred temple to gastronomy. 18 rue Troyon, 75017 (01 43 80 40 61) Maison Blanche Jacques and Laurent Pourcel have their Parisian HQ on the terrace of the Thtre des Champslyses with a striking modern structure off ering great views of Paris and an extraordinary phosphorescent bar. The Pourcel brothers' aromatic, spicy menu, rich in seafood, is inspired by France's borders with Spain in the Languedoc. Thtre des Champs-lyses, 15 avenue Montaigne, 75008 (01 47 23 55 99) Market A courageous attempt to bring fusion to the French by Alsatian chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The menu includes tuna and wasabi, lobster and radish and chicken satay; the interior features a collection of primitive art in stone and wood. 15 avenue Matignon, 75008 (01 56 43 40 90) Michel Rostang Solid but refined cuisine bourgeoise such as veal shank, whole veal sweetbread and fattened Bresses chicken in an atmosphere of plush, old fashioned elegance. A curiosity is the chef's enormous collection of porcelain figurines stored in a vast pearwood cabinet.
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20 rue Rennequin, 75017 (01 47 63 40 77) Le Murat Over-the-top interior based on the Grande Arme of the Napoleonic Wars: blood-red chairs, violet and green silk curtains hiding one or two alcoves, and silver birch trunks on wall and ceiling. The menu features contemporary standards. 1 boulevard Murat, 75016 (01 46 51 33 17) Pershing Hall Andre Putman's design features pink transparent panels, vases and chairs in red and a vertically planted terrace wall. The chef is from Nobu and the food a French/Japanese fusion. 49 rue Pierre Charron, 75008 (01 58 36 58 36) Pinxo This cheaper off shoot of chef Alain Dutournier's Carr des Feuillants features such specialities as Aquitaine beef and is staffed by waiters in black pyjamas. 9 rue d'Alger, 75001 (01 40 20 72 00) Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire Before Heston Blumenthal opened the Fat Duck, Pierre Gagnaire was perfecting 'molecular gastronomy' with the help of chemist Herv in a quest for the 'true nature of ingredients' and what happens to them in the cooking process. Dishes include chantilly cheese, warm aspic or flank steak in soup - he's thinking up new ideas all the time. The decor is sober to the point of austerity. 6 rue Balzac, 75008 (01 58 36 12 50) Spoon, Wine and Food Alain Ducasse combines modern, exotic and traditional techniques to produce a harmonious fusion cuisine which doesn't blur flavours. The pale grey decor is bare but elegant. 14 rue de Marignan, 75008 (01 40 76 34 44) La Table De Jol Robuchon The young Frdric Simonin, former right-hand man to Ghislaine Arabian, is proving to be an outstanding chef, and top man Jol Robuchon seems to be standing by his intention to place great food within the reach of (almost) every budget. The caramel-coloured decor is chic and functional. 16 avenue Bugeaud, 75016 (01 56 28 16 16) Terrasse Mirabeau Pierre Negrevergne is just as capable of dashing off dishes in the bistro style as devising more sophisticated preparations. His simple, modernlooking neo-bistro is one of the best restaurants in this well-to-do neighbourhood. 5 place de Barcelone, 75016 (01 42 24 41 51) Tokyo Eat More like an aircraft carrier than a restaurant, Tokyo Eat comes festooned with pink flying saucers which blast out techno. The fusion food is adventurous, not to say wacky, the prices are reasonable, the service comes with a smile and the customers are a mix. Not surprisingly, it's doing fantastically well. Palais de Tokyo, 13 avenue du President Wilson, 75016 (01 47 20 00 29)
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Ze Kitchen Galerie Guy Savoy protg William Ledeuil, another master of fusion, opened this handsome space in 2001. The decor is post-modern and the place is just a little too noisy, but dishes such as scallops and oysters in horseradish and his fantastic pasta make it more than worth a visit. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins, 75006 (01 44 32 00 32) Gourmet Bistros and Restaurants of Paris by Pierre Rival and Christian Sarramon is published by Flammarion, 19.95. To order a copy for 18.95 with free UK p&p go to observer.co.uk/bookshop or call 0870 836 0885
guardian.co.uk Guardian News and Media Limited 2010
3/16/2010

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Pierre Rival: The 80 best places to eat out in Paris | Travel | The Observer

Some like it haute

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