Hydraulic ARM

Contents

1. Objective 2. Introduction 3. DC motor 4. 8051 5. Conclusions

INTRODUCTION

Objective: - The main objective of this project to build a unique kind of robotic algorithm to achieve a new kind of approachability in the field of robotics. The Robotic arm is one of those types of different view for automation in machines. These robots are designed to clean or pull up & down any kind obstructions

Abstract : The Robotic Manipulator Arm extends the flexibility of workstations by transporting material more efficiently and quickly between worktable, peripheral devices and assembly lines etc.

A sub class of more general family of Robots, the Industrial Robots.

An industrial robot is officially defined by ISO as an automatically controlled, reprogrammable, multipurpose manipulator programmable in three or more axes.

Despite its numerous possible usages, it finds most widespread usage in manufacturing industry.

Typical applications of robots include welding, painting, assembly, pick and place, packaging and palletizing, product inspection, and testing, all accomplished with high endurance, speed, and precision.

Hydraulics
Hydraulics is a topic in applied science and engineering dealing with the mechanical properties of liquids. Fluid mechanics provides the theoretical foundation for hydraulics, which focuses on the engineering uses of fluid properties. In fluid power, hydraulics is used for the generation, control, and transmission of power by the use of pressurized liquids. Hydraulic topics range through most science and engineering disciplines, and cover concepts such as pipe flow, dam design, fluidics and fluid control circuitry, pumps, turbines, hydropower, computational fluid dynamics, flow measurement, river channel behavior and erosion. Free surface hydraulics is the branch of hydraulics dealing with free surface flow, such as occurring in rivers, canals, lakes, estuaries and seas. Its sub-field open channel flow studies the flow in open channels. Hydraulic machines are machinery and tools that use liquid fluid power to do simple work. Heavy equipment is a common example. In this type of machine, hydraulic fluid is transmitted throughout the machine to various hydraulic motors and hydraulic cylinders and which becomes pressurised according to the resistance present. The fluid is controlled directly or automatically by control valves and distributed through hoses and tubes. The popularity of hydraulic machinery is due to the very large amount of power that can be transferred through small tubes and flexible hoses, and the high power density and wide array of actuators that can make use of this power. Hydraulic machinery is operated by the use of hydraulics, where a liquid is the powering medium.

Force and torque multiplication

A fundamental feature of hydraulic systems is the ability to apply force or torque multiplication in an easy way, independent of the distance between the input and output, without the need for mechanical gears or levers, either by altering the effective areas in two connected cylinders or the effective displacement (cc/rev) between a pump and motor. In

normal cases, hydraulic ratios are combined with a mechanical force or torque ratio for optimum machine designs such as boom movements and track drives for an excavator. Examples Two hydraulic cylinders interconnected Cylinder C1 is one inch in radius, and cylinder C2 is ten inches in radius. If the force exerted on C1 is 10 lbf, the force exerted by C2 is 1000 lbf because C2 is a hundred times larger in area (S = r) as C1. The downside to this is that you have to move C1 a hundred inches to move C2 one inch. The most common use for this is the classical hydraulic jack where a pumping cylinder with a small diameter is connected to the lifting cylinder with a large diameter. Pump and motor If a hydraulic rotary pump with the displacement 10 cc/rev is connected to a hydraulic rotary motor with 100 cc/rev, the shaft torque required to drive the pump is 10 times less than the torque available at the motor shaft, but the shaft speed (rev/min) for the motor is 10 times less than the pump shaft speed. This combination is actually the same type of force multiplication as the cylinder example (1) just that the linear force in this case is a rotary force, defined as torque. Both these examples are usually referred to as a hydraulic transmission or hydrostatic transmission involving a certain hydraulic "gear ratio".
Hydraulic pump

An exploded view of an external gear pump. Hydraulic pumps supply fluid to the components in the system. Pressure in the system develops in reaction to the load. Hence, a pump rated for 5,000 psi is capable of maintaining flow against a load of 5,000 psi.

Pumps have a power density about ten times greater than an electric motor (by volume). They are powered by an electric motor or an engine, connected through gears, belts, or a flexible elastomeric coupling to reduce vibration. Common types of hydraulic pumps to hydraulic machinery applications are;

Gear pump: cheap, durable (especially in g-rotor form). , simple. Less efficient, because they are constant (fixed) displacement, and mainly suitable for pressures below 20 MPa (3000 psi).

Vane pump: cheap and simple, reliable.Good for higher-flow low-pressure output. Axial piston pump: many designed with a variable displacement mechanism, to vary output flow for automatic control of pressure. There are various axial piston pump designs, including swashplate (sometimes referred to as a valveplate pump) and checkball (sometimes referred to as a wobble plate pump). The most common is the swashplate pump. A variable-angle swashplate causes the pistons to reciprocate a greater or lesser distance per rotation, allowing output flow rate and pressure to be varied (greater displacement angle causes higher flow rate, lower pressure, and vice versa).

Radial piston pump A pump that is normally used for very high pressure at small flows.

Piston pumps are more expensive than gear or vane pumps, but provide longer life operating at higher pressure, with difficult fluids and longer continuous duty cycles. Piston pumps make up one half of a hydrostatic transmission.

Structure Details

Overall view of the arm

The robotic arm in the picture is a lot of fun to make and use. It uses a first and third class lever, and has a fun linkage for the grabber. It can grab, pick up, and move to the side. A great first project to warm you up using levers and hydraulics. You can peg the small pieces that hold the long arm (as I have), but it takes very precise drilling, so your best bet is to glue the small cross pieces. Once the glue is set though, drilling and pegging will make this model last forever (maybe longer). First thing to do is: Gather the parts! You will need 6 - 5 ml syringes 4 screw eyes big enough for a 3/16 dowel 93 cm of tubing to fit the syringes, - 6 mm outside diameter 166 cm of 1 x 1 cm sticks base -this can be any size, however, mine is 2 cm thick, 8.8 cm wide x 26 cm long ( an 11" piece of 1" x 4" wood) a small disk about 7.5 cm diameter - you can cut some plywood for this, or use the precut wheels 30 cm of 2 cm x 2 cm wood - for the stand - any size close to this is OK though Support structure

 50 cm of dowel - 14 cm more if you are going to peg the small crossbars for the arm

Tubing You need two kinds of tubing:

4 mm inside and 6 mm Outside

the tubes for the syringes are 1/8" inside, 3/16" outside dimension (this is 4 mm inside and 6 mm outside dimension) - and the holder tubes - to go around the dowel and the tubing and hold them in place this tubing is 3/16" inside and 1/4" outside dimension, (this is 6 mm inside and 8 mm outside dimension)

Cut the 1 xl cm wood and drill the holes The center of the holes near the ends is 6 mm away from the end. When you drill holes in pieces the same length, lay them on top of each other and drill, that way the holes will be exactly the same distance apart. Important! - all 3/16" dowels are not the same! I find that if I use a 3/16" drill bit for the holes, the dowel is so tight in the hole it will not move. So, I use a 13 /64" drill bit and the dowel is snug so the piece doesn't wobble, but is loose enough that it moves in the hole with some friction. You really should test your dowel in a scrap piece to make sure the fit is correct (snug, but not too snug so it doesn't move).

With the 1x1 cm wood cut the following pieces:

3 - 30 cm pieces - rounded at one end 2 - 12.2 cm pieces, round off the ends 2 - 7.5 cm pieces 4 - 6 cm pieces, cut on an angle and sanded on the inside edge 4 - 3.2 cm pieces one has a small hole in the middle (use the smallest bit since it is just for a bit of wire) 1 - 2.5 cm piece - drill a 13/64 hole in the middle 3 - 1.1 cm pieces - drill a 13/64 hole in the middle The pieces should look like this! the^ These two are same.

One has a small hole in

7.5 cm

H~
2.5 cm

6 cm-*|

6 cm

the midd le

1.1 cm - hole in the middle of each.

3
12.2 cm

Cut 2 - 15 cm pieces 15 cm" with the 2 x2 cm wood and cut the base.

If there is no meas urem ent for the hole, the cente r of it shoul d be

Cut a 7.5 cm diame ter circle disk out of VV" plywo od. Drill a 13/64 hole in the middl e.

.6 cm from the end of the wood (this is most of them) .

13 cm

8 cm

30 cm - all 13 cm three.

Make the long part of the arm, use the small 3.2 cm pieces to join them. The middle bottom piece should have a small hole in the middle for a piece of wire later on. Outside holes Assemble the pieces as shown here. Carefully glue the small 3.2 cm pieces to the outside 30 cm pieces - make sure the holes are pointing out.

point This piece has small hole drilled through . a out, middle piece, hole is up. Glue them so there is a little space for the

middle piece to slide.

Hole on side

Let the glue harden (dry?) and assemble the base.

Place a 2.5 cm peg in the hole. It has a little hole

drilled across the

top.

The piece with small hole is on the bottom.

The Base!

Drill a hole in the base 8 cm from the front and to the side so the disk is close to one side. This will leave room for the
Place the center of the disk about 8 cm from the front and over to the side.

piston that moves it on the other side.

The right side of the support structure has two screw eyes, the one on the inside is big enough for the syringe tube and is 2.5 cm up from the bottom. The one on the outside can be smaller since it only will have a wire in it, and it is .5 of a cm from the bottom and .5 cm from the back (the long side of the base is the back). You can use a big one on the outside if that is all you have. Screw them in before you glue the pieces to the disk since it is easier (especially the inside one).

Cut a 4 cm dowel and glue it in the base. Slide the disk over the dowel and glue down the 2.5 cm piece over the disk. This way the disk will rotate, but not come off! Glue peg in base and to wood, but not to the disk (it has to turn).

Cut a piece of dowel to fit in the holes 6 cm from the bottom. It should be long enough to go to the outside edge of the support structure (that's what I call this part), so the structure is exactly 3.2 cm across. The long arm should be 3.2 cm across, (measure your drying long arm) so the space here has to be that wide. The 15 cm pieces are glued to the disk.

Insert pegs in the top holes so they stick in 1 cm, this will hold the long arm. They don't need to be glued since there is no motion that will work them loose, and it's nice to be able to remove them Let this dry and go on to the grabber arms.

The

Grabber

Arms

Small
structure to the disk. Make the supports 3.2 cm apart

For the Grabber arms you will need 7 pieces of cut dowel.

pieces attach on the outside.

3 at 3 cm long 4 at 4 cm long This is the part that

Right side

on shows if you have cut and drilled with accuracy! top, the left on the bottom. Start off by looking at the diagram and checking out where things will go.

The dowels will insert into the holes and a tube is pushed over the end to hold them in place. So you need 10 tubes cut .5 of a cm. This is the 6mm tubing that is a bit bigger than the tubing you use for the syringes. Did you get all that?

To finish, place the 4 cm dowel through the long arm, through a wooden spacer and then through the bottom arm, as shown here. Do the same for the other side and you are ready for
Push a 4 cm dowel through, add a spacer and attach the bottom linkage.

the claws! Place tubing over the dowels to hold them in place. There should be .5 cm on each side of the arm for the tubing.

_ / _ I _L

Add the rubber sleeves over these dowels to hold them in place.

The claws!

There are two ways you can attach them. If you look above they both have a space between them, and here there is no space between one of them. Our researchers have decided that they are both fine and you can use whichever technique you want (in a vote 42 to 5). Either way, you need a wooden spacer on the arm on the right. On these pieces the dowel doesn't need a rubber holder since they are going to be glued and the dowel should be flat on the claw. Trim the dowel with a pair of small wire snippers if they are too long. Move the linkage in and out with your hands and adjust the claws so they are at the correct angle, and they don't bind with each other. If they hit each other and don't nicely mesh then take them off and sand them so they slide together. Once they are smoothly meshing and at an angle that you like, put glue on the dowels and push them in.

The linkage should look something like this. Test it so it is smooth, sand where needed.

Now for the hydraulics! As you have seen there are three syringes to move the parts, and three to push them. You will need to drill a small hole in the top or side of the syringe, so you can attach it to the arms with a small piece of wire. Each syringe is held in place by a screw eye, and a plastic tube (like the wooden dowels).
Attach the base-turning piston

Take one of the

Place the tube with the holder through the screw eye and into the syringe. Snug up \ the holder. Hot glue if needed.

syringes (they can also be called pistons, since that's what they are called when they are used in hydraulics) and fill it with water. Coloured water (use

11.5 cm

food colouring) is best since you can easily see which

piston pushes which - you will have three. Place the .5 cm outer tube over the 20 cm tube and leave it close to the end.

Fill the piston with water; attach the tube (the small outer tube should be on the opposite end). When the piston and the tube are full, (get as many bubbles out as you can), place it through the screw eye and onto the other syringe (which should be empty and pushed all the way in. Then push some water in and attach the flat top to the screw eye on the base with a small piece of wire. There you have it. Push and pull, it should move around! If the holder tube slides along the tubing, you may need to get out the glue gun and glue it so it stays put.

Now for the long arm Cut about 25 cm of tubing, place a .5 cm tube over one end and fill the syringe and tube so it is full. Place the tubing through the screw eye in the middle of the
Fill the tube with water with water and and attach it to syringe. Slide up t to the the holder tube and attach the top to the lon arm. long

support arms and over the other syringe and you have number two almost done. Attach a wire through the top of the syringe, and through the wooden piece (you did put in a hole didn't you?). Twist it so the attachment is snug and check your work. The arm should go up and down! Adjust the small holder tube at the bottom so it is snug.

The Claw mechanism (you can almost taste this it is so close!) Place a screw eye into the crossbar and a piece of dowel with a small hole in it in the center long arm. Fill the syringe as usual (I hope you are using different colours). Slide up the .5 cm holder tube and then attach the syringe to the dowel with some wire at the other end.