AN

INTRODUCTION
TO
THE
HOSPITALLER
MILITARY
ARCHITECTURE
OF
VALLETTA

Pavla Antonia Meli

Form II
 CONTENTS

Introduction 3

The Foundation of Valletta 10

Hospitaller Military Architecture

• Fort Saint Elmo 19
• Military Architecture Terms 25

Biographies of Architects and Military Engineers 28

The Walls of Valletta

• A final look 34

References 43

List of Illustrations 44

2
 INTRODUCTION
The aim of this project is to give a glimpse of the rich historical heritage of the City of
Valletta as my personal contribution to promote this Gem in the Crown of the Maltese
Nation. Valletta in June 1998 is designated as the European Cultural City for that month.

General history of the City before its foundation.

The City of Valletta is situated on one of the promontories jutting out into the Grand
Harbour. It affords a natural safe anchorage in the sheltered creeks along its sides, Pieta’ \
Msida Creeks to the North East and the Cottonera Creeks to the South. The tongue of land
was known to the early inhabitants of Malta as Xaghriet Mewwija – meaning the inhabited
promontory and the site of the present City called Sheb-ir-Ras – meaning the light point. No
doubt, the importance of the harbours was recognised from the earliest times. Long before
anybody thought of building a city on this land the Maltese used to say that: F’Xghariet
Mewwija ghad kull xiber jiswa mija – meaning that for every palm (a unit of measurement)
will cost one hundred.
It appears that in 1488 a small fort called Torre della Bocca was constructed at the extreme
point of Sheb-Ir-Ras. This tiny fort surrounded by a moat had crumbled down when the
Order of Saint John took possession of Malta in 1530. The strategic importance of this fort
in the defense of the Marsamxetto and Grand Harbours was recognised, so much so, that in
1552, under the Grand Mastership of D’Omedes it was reconstructed.

Geographical description of Valletta.

The promontory of Sheb-ir-Ras is a continuation into the sea off the ridge, which divides the
Qormi from the Birkirkara Basin. At its widest it is half a mile wide; and its length, from Blata-
l-Bajda to Saint Elmo tip is a mile and a half. Midway between these extremes, the ridge of
the promontory is 175 feet above sea level and it descends gently in either direction to the
plateaus, 125 feet high, which are the central areas of Valletta and Floriana respectively.
Beyond them the ridge again descends; one side to Portes des Bombes and the other,
more steeply, to the Camarata Saddle – Map 1,
The neck of the promontory is marked by two valleys which originate in the neighbourhood
of what is now Saint Paul Square in Hamrun. One of these, the Pieta Valley, descends in a
North-Easterly direction to the Creek of Marsamxetto; the other, the Menqa Valley to the
Lighter Basin in the Grand Harbour. They are so close one to the other, as to have
suggested the linking of the two harbours by a canal from Creek to Basin. Though the
promontory generally slopes steeply on either side, valleys occasionally distort the regularity
of its contours. Five of these debouch into Marsamxetto Harbour. These are the following :
1. The Braxia Valley, which descends from Port des Bombes to join the Pieta Valley;
2. The Saint Rocco Valley, which descends from what is now the Excelsior Hotel to the
cove under Quarantine Bastion;
3. The Manderaggio Valley, which, origination from what is now Republic Street – near the
Opera Site – traverses the what was the Slum by that name – now Mattia Preti Square;
4. The Ghetto Valley, which descends to Saint Elmo Bay from what is now the
Archbishop’s Palace;
5. The Arsenal Valley, which descends to the same Bay from the Camerata Saddle.

3
 Map 1

The

Topological

Map

of

Mount Sheb ir-

Ras

4
Three of these valleys debouch into the Grand Harbour, these are the following :
1. The Saint Lazarus Valley, behind the Bastion by that name;
2. The Saint Lucy Valley, behind the Saint Barbara Bastion;
3. The Crucifix Valley, which has its source near the nowadays Sarria Church and
descends in an Easterly direction across nowadays Sir Filippo Sceberras Square and
along the line of the modern Crucifix Road.

The fortifications of Valletta.

Valletta is defended by two lines of fortifications – the Inner Fortifications and the Outer
Fortifications.
The inner defenses of Valletta include a fort, an enceintre of bastions and curtains,
defensive ditches, two cavaliers and various advance-works.
The fort is that of Saint Elmo on the headland, which commands the entrance of the two
harbours and is isolated by a ditch, now in part obscured by a fly-over. A second ditch
extends from harbour to harbour where the promontory of Sheb-ir-Ras is highest and
widest. Between these ditches lies the City of Valletta encircled by ramparts whose bastions
and curtains dominate the plateau of Floriana and the two harbours. Towards Marsamxetto
are the Bastions of Saint Saviour and Saint Andrew; towards Grand Harbour those of Saint
Lazarus, Saint Christopher and Saint Barbara. On the side of Floriana are the twin Bastions
of Saint John and Saint James dominated by their Cavaliers; and at the angles, those of
Saint Michael and of Saints Peter and Paul. Reinforcing the corner bastions are the Demi-
Bastions and Counterguard of Saint Michael, and the Counterguards of Saint Peter and
Lascaris. The Counterguards of Saint John and Saint James command the Saint Rocco and
Crucifix Valleys respectively. All these advance-works are in their turn defended by ditches –
Map 2.
The outer defenses of Valletta are composed of much the same elements as the inner; but
cavaliers are omitted, while lunettes and crown and horn works are added. Across the
promontory, on the edge of the plateau of Floriana, and half a mile in advance of the
enceinte, a line of bastions and curtains, protected by a ditch, commands the approaches to
Valletta from the interior of the Island.
It is continued along the shores of both harbours to join that of the inner defences. In the
centre, facing landwards, is a triple bastion bearing the names of Saints James, Philip and
Luke; and on either side, the Bastions of Saint Saviour and Saint Francis. Towards the
Grand Harbour are the Kalkara, Crucifix and Capuchin Bastions, and towards Marsamxetto
Harbour are those called Quarantine, Msida and Sa Maison. In advance of Main Ditch, the
Ravelin of Our Lady is so placed as to dominate the Brachia (Braxia) Valley; the Crown and
Horn Works, projecting from the Ravelin of Saint Francis, to command the Menqa Valley.
Between the ravelins are lunettes. The ravelins, lunettes and crown and horn works are, in
their turn, defended by ditches.
Mention must also be made of an inner defense line known to-day as the North
Entrenchment, which runs above, parallel to, and some 200 yards in the rear of, the
defences overlooking Marsamxetto – Map 1.

The streets of Valletta.

In the general layout of Valletta one find that the ramparts of Valletta were not raised about
existing buildings. On the contrary, Valletta was laid out within an enceinte virtually
complete; and its streets, the alignment of which was hardly changed in four hundred years,
was subordinated to the needs of military defense. The streets are straight; some

5
 Map 2

The

Fortifications

of

Valletta

6
nine streets are parallel and some dozen at right angles, to the axis of the promontory
forming more than a hundred rectangular blocks or insulae.
Republic Street, the former Strada San Giorgio, is an outstanding street of Valletta. This is
not because it is the widest and longest, but because it is the approach to the Civic Centre
from City Gate, the principal entrance of the City; and because it links Castille Palace, the
Auberges and Saint John Co-Cathedral. Only less wide from Republic Street are Merchants
Street, the former Strada San Giacomo, and Old Bakery Street, the former Strada San
Giovanni Battista, leading to the Cavaliers.
Valletta’s street gradients are horrendous. The longitudinal streets resemble switch-backs
and many of the lateral streets fall too steeply to the harbours to be convenient. Many
streets are made of steps, for example the parts of Saint Lucy Street, the former Strada
della Vittoria, East Street, the former Strada San Luigi and Strada San Simeone – the
nowadays Steps Street !!!
Valletta squares relieve the Citizens from the monotony of the street grid, albeit scanty
reservation of space-free of building. In the centre, Saint George Square, known also as the
Main Guard and Republic Square provide a dignified setting for public buildings. Towards
Marsamxetto Harbour, Independence Square harmonizes the Protestant Temple and a
Spanish Auberge. To the right hand side of Saint John’s Co Cathedral there is the Great
Siege of 1565 Square. In time we have lost a square, formerly Piazza Malcantone, to the
Suq – Valletta’s main market and gained another – thanks to the Second World War, the
nowadays Saint John’s Square – formerly there stood a block of buildings which received a
direct hit during the said war.
Finally we come to what are left of Valletta’s Open Spaces. In addition to the squares there
are some open spaces expressly created for the convenience and enjoyment of the
community. These are on and about the enceinte, which though military in use are now
enjoyed by the Citizens. Such are the Gardens known as the Lower and Upper Barakka with
their entrancing views of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities. Those on Saint John
Bastion and contiguous curtain; the gardens on the Bastions of Saint Michael and Andrew –
the Hastings Garden, overlooking Marsamxetto Harbour; and the low-lying open space
outside the Fort Saint Elmo. The modern breach in the ramparts at Castille Square has
converted a quiet open space into a traffic artery – Map 3.

The demography of Valletta.

Exclude the headland of Fort Saint Elmo, the total land area covered by Valletta is 0.727
square kilometers. The census of 1985 gave a population of 9 340 persons living at Valletta
on the night of November 16, 1985, which made it one of the most densely populated area
in the Maltese Islands 12 847 persons per square kilometer. Unfortunately, the Census
effected ten years later confirmed the decline in Valletta’s population. As a matter of fact the
census revealed a population of 7 186 and a density of 9 984 persons per square kilometer.
If we are to project Valletta’s future population we find that it will drop to a record low of 5
875 by the year 2005 unless the existing buildings are rehabilitated to modern standards.
Most of the uninhabited buildings are entirely sub-standard and not fit for habitation. To this
end there is the Valletta Rehabilitation Committee – my father is on this Committee - and its
primary scope is to rehabilitate Valletta, both Culturally and Habitation wise. A lot of work
has been made since its setup in 1988, to mention a few: the Churches of Saint James and
Tal-Pilar Church; various Social Housing were built instead of dilapidated slums and other
dangerous buildings.

7
Map 3 Modern Day Valletta

8
 THE

FOUNDATION

OF

VALLETTA

9
 The Foundation of Valletta
The earliest proposal, to build a City on top Sheb-ir-Ras, appears to have come from the
engineers Antonio Ferramolino and Leone Strozzi well before the Great Siege of 1565. On
March 11th 1558 Bartolomeo Genga, the famous Italian Architect and Military Engineer
arrived in Malta and after examining the position repeated the proposals which have been
made earlier. He made a model of his plan, which included a larger area than that of
Francesco Laparelli da Cortona. The front of the new city extended to the present Floriana,
so that the city guns were able to cover the Corradino high grounds. In 1559 Genga died in
Malta and Baldassare Lanci d’ Urbino took his place. Lanci’s plan was simpler and thus
more practical, however, the work was not undertaken and the proposal was shelved until
the great event of 1565.
After the glorious victory over the Turks and in spite of the warm congratulations and
promises of assistance which the defenders had received from all parts of Catholic and
Protestant Europe, the Council of the Order was by no means assured about the safety of
their position in Malta and many members wished to quit the Maltese Islands.
Intelligence received from the East announced that the Grand Seignor, incensed at the
failure of his troops under the command of his best generals and admirals had declared that
he would place himself at the head of a formidable army and attach Malta in the following
Spring. Money was short for the rebuilding of the fortifications and there were few soldiers to
man them. For the surrounding countryside had been burned and depopulated by the Turks
– most of the villages burned, the cisterns drained or poisoned and no money left either to
buy provisions or repair the ‘war damage’.
What rendered the situation most desperate was the few soldiers and still fewer knights
remained – indeed their numbers was insufficient to defend the Island against the attach of
the most consistent army. In this desperate situation, many of the members of the Council
were of the opinion that the most prudent measure would be to evacuate Malta. Here we
have to admire La Valette in what one can consider worth of a modern statesman. Elated by
the glory he had obtained in its defense, declared he would sooner be buried in its ruins
than consent to abandon it. Indeed in this dreadful dilemma he had but one resource left,
which indeed nothing but such desperate circumstances could justify and which many
modern military strategists would scrupled to employ. Soleiman, La Valette well knew, would
never attempt to attack Malta without a most formidable fleet : he therefore caused the
arsenal at Constantinople to be burned to the ground and thus destroy a great number of
warships intended for this expedition – in a true James Bond tradition !
One is induced to assert that the burning of the arsenal at Constantinople was by way of
reprisal; Selim II, the son of Soleiman having caused the arsenal at Venice to be set on fire
before the beginning of the Great Siege.
La Valette having no longer anything to apprehend from the Grand Seignor – at least in the
short term resolved to take advantage of this situation to re-build the fortifications so
completely ruined by the Turks. He was so well aware of the importance of the situation of
Fort Saint Elmo, and therefore immediately begun to repair it. He was endowed with
foresight that he saw the strategic advantage of this peninsula. When this war should be
finished, he meant to transfer the Convent there and make it the principal place of residence
for the knights, who would be more secure there than in the Borgo, which commanded on
all sides by the surrounding hills – Salvatore, Margherita and Corradino.
The most powerful assistance, however, was necessary to complete so great undertaking,
the Grand Master sent ambassadors with the plan of this new town – what we term to-day

10
Grand MasterJean Parisot de la Valette,
founder of the City of Valletta

11
as the feasibility project – to all Christian Kings and Princes, who unanimously expressed
their approbation of it. Pope Pius V promised to contribute 15 000 crowns and the King of
France 140 000 French Livres to be paid from the tenths or tithes of his kingdom. Philip II of
Spain granted 90 00 French Livres and King Sebastian of Portugal 30 000 Cruzados. Most
of the Commanders, nobly disinterested, stripped themselves of their property and even
some of their most valuable movables, the profits from which they sent to Malta.
La Valette applied to Pope Pius IV for the services of an expert architect well versed in town
planning and the design of fortifications to be sent to Malta to take charge of the
preparations for the new city. For this task the Pope chose Francesco Laparelli an assistant
of Michelangelo and a man with wide experience of military defences. Laparelli arrived in
Malta in the final days of December 1565 at the very time that the knights were divided in
their opinion whether of staying or going as already discussed above. In face of this
uncertainty, La Valette ordered Laparelli to prepare his plans with utmost speed. Within
three days of his arrival he was able to lay his proposals before the Council. These
proposals were not altered in any important particular in the final execution of his scheme.
There were times when the Grand Master wavered in his resolution, deterred by the thought
of the tremendous expenditure involved. However, Gabrio Serbelloni – who was sent to
Malta by Philip II, supported Laparelli’s insistence of the proposed building development for
the new city. It was Serebellioni’s advice that has given weight and so-to-say enforced the
action to be taken.
The fateful decision was formally taken on March 14th 1566.
La Valette and his Council and knights proceeded to Sheb-ir-Ras in great pomp and there
laid the foundation-stone of the new city 14 days later, that is, March 28th, which borne his
name, on which was engraven in Latin the decree of the Council.
FR. JOHANNES DE VALLETTA
SACRE DOMUS HOSP. HIEROSOL. M. MAGISTER
PERICULORUM ANNO SUPERIORE
A SUIS MILITIBUS, POULOQUE MELITEO
IN OBSIDIONE TURCA PERPESSORUM
MEMOR
……………..
……………..
The English version of the text is as follows :
“Fr. Jean de la Valette, Grand Master of the Hospitaller and Military Order of Saint John,
mindful of the danger to which, the year before, his knights and people of Malta were
exposed during the siege by the Turks, having consulted the heads of the Order about
construction of a new city and fortifying the same by walls ramparts and towers sufficient to
th
resist any attack and to repeal or at least, to withstand the Turkish enemy on Thursday 28 ,
of March in the year of the Lord 1566, after the invocation of the Almighty God, implored the
intercession of the Holy Virgin Mother, to the Patron Saint John the Baptist and of other
Saints, to grant the work commenced should lead to prosperity and the happiness of the
whole Christian community, and to the advantage of the Order laid the foundation-stone of
the city on a hill called Sheb-ir-Ras by the natives and having granted for its arms a golden
lion on a red shield wished it to be called by his name VALLETTA. “
In order to preserve to the latest posterity the remembrance of so important an event, a
great number of gold coins and silver medals were thrown among the foundation stones –
Plate 1.

12
This ceremony was followed by the most assiduous application to completion of the work.
Everyone between the ages of 12 and 60, without distinction of rank, was employed on this
grand project. Those who could not work had to pay 1 Tari for every day he kept from work.
Deep moats were cut down to sea level and strong walls were raised straight from the sea.
The approaches to the countryside were cleared from stones and earth, a work proved
costly as the fortifications themselves. The space within the walls was then offered for sale.
A considerable sum was thus raised, though the price of the land was as low as 2 Tari per
square cane.
In this military oligarchy, all regarded themselves as concerned – including la Valette
himself. In his last two-year lease of life left in him he never neglected his duties as the chief
fireman on site. He took his meals like a common workman and gave audience and issued
out his orders on site. He had a small chapel built at the highest point on the plateau, in
which he prayed and rested after his wearisome inspections.
Commander de la Fontaine, celebrated for his skill in fortifications, was the principal director
and superintendent of these works. The want of more finance to carry them on was soon
sensibly felt. The Order, therefore, to supply this deficiently, caused copper coins to be
minted and annexed a different value to the pieces, according to the size into which they
were cut.
These coins, known as Patacca were of two types – thin to the value of 2 Tari and the other
type was large to the value of 4 Tari. Each coin, on one side were represented two hands
clasped together and the other side bore the arms of La Valette, quartered with those of the
Order, with the following legend – NON AES, SED FIDES, which in English means “ Not
brass but credit”, the value of each coin being shown in figures – Plate 1.
This step rendered silver very scarce, but helped to pay the multitude of workmen engaged
on the new works. The punctuality with which payment was received from Europe
established perfect confidence among the people, that they never complained against the
circulation of copper coin or were the works ever discontinued or at least neglected.
According to the proposed plans, the rocky and uneven top of Sheb-ir-Ras was to be
leveled before the erection of any building. The difficult work had been fairly begun when
rumors of a Turkish expedition against the Island reached the Order. La Valette directed
that, the fortifications should have the priority over the leveling of the site. This was done at
once with the result that the expensive leveling was abandoned for good and Valletta had to
be built with steep streets following the natural contour of the rock – Map 1. The only portion
of land which was already leveled was the top part of the nowadays Republic Street and
Merchant’s Street. During the rest of 1566 practically all work was concentrated upon the
fortifications in order to make the peninsula secure from impending Turkish force then being
set up for another invasion.
On August 21st, 1568, Grand Master Jean de la Valette passed on to better life. He was first
interred in the vault of the Chapel of Saint Anne in Fort Saint Angelo, however, Grand
Master Pietro del Monte, who succeeded la Valette, saw that his predecessor should be laid
to rest in his own City. The funerary arrangements took form of a State Funeral in which the
knights and whole of the Maltese population participated. The mortal remains of la Valette
were placed on board the Admiral of the Order galley, which was disarmed and dismasted
and towed by two armed galleys hung with black cloth. The same galleys likewise towed the
banners, standards and arms taken from the Turks and other barbarians whom he
conquered. These were followed by two galleys, which had particularly belonged personally
to la Valette, covered also in black cloth. Grand Master Del Monte and his Council,
Commanders and the officers embarked on these two galleys. The household of the
deceased Grand Master landed first, the majority of them carried flambeaux and the rest
colours taken from the enemy. The clergy bearing the body and singing hymns followed
these. Jean de La Valette was finally laid to rest at his own Chapel, where he worked and

13
I
l

Ilustration 2

1. Grand Master la Valette commemorative medal struck for the

occasion of the foundation of Valletta – Type 1 (four other types
were concurrently minted and placed under the foundation stone.)

2. Grand Master Verdala 2 Silver Tari Patacca which was still in

usage twenty years after the first ones were minted by la Valette.

3. Pope Saint Pius V Medallion struck in Rome on his ascension to

the Throne of Peter on January 7th, 1566.

14
rested, to be the first and sole inhabitant of Valletta for a number of months. Now that la
Valette was dead his successor was very anxious to complete the City of Valletta, and for
that purpose not only attended himself to the works but also contributed to the expenses out
of his own private property. Valletta’s fortifications and the basic urbanistics were finished by
1571 and the Convent was transferred there from Vittoriosa and the new city became the
seat of Government ever since.
We now come back to Laparelli’s first report this can be said to be the first Project
Management exercise in the Maltese Islands.
For example, he calculated that in order to repair the damaged inflicted on fortifications of
Birgu, Senglea and Saint Elmo it would take 4 000 men working day and night. Another
example was that of siting the land 500 canes away from the ditch of Fort Saint Elmo. He
estimated that he would require the service of 3 000 labourers, half employed in stone
cutting, the rest transporting the material, plus 100 stone masons and 400 manual workers
(what we call nowadays unskilled labour) to assist the craftsmen. With such workforce in
three months the city would be able to resist a siege if manned by a garrison of 3 000 well
provisioned infantry. A 1 000 workmen would be retained for a fourth month to carry out
such work as could be undertaken even if they were under siege. With each day’s delay
more workman would be required to complete the works on time; he estimated that 5 000
labourers would now be needed before the end of January and by mid-March 5 000 infantry
men would be needed to guard the works on Sheb-ir-Ras and Mdina. If the new city was not
commenced because of scarcity of workmen 12 000 infantry men and 200 light-horse would
be needed to defend the Island.
By the time of the publication of his second report, that of the 13th January 1566, he had
time to consider in more depth the scheme to fortify Sheb-ir-Ras and was fully aware of the
problems involved.
By early April 1566, Laparelli had committed his designs to paper and was prepared to
display his scheme to the European princes by way of plan and explanatory reports – a sort
of a palaeo-feasibility report. His confidence was not misplaced and from that time on the
new city proceeded under his guidance without serious interruptions. Reports after this
month convey an impression of steady progress despite his repeated complains about the
shortage of hands and finance. Since it was barely eight months before the Turkish fleet
might again be expected, the European princes supplied what it was required – funds and
workmen. Laparelli even engaged 500 workmen from Italy and Sicily to finish off in time.
Hence the introduction of many Italian surnames in the Maltese Telephone Directory ! It is
estimated that in summer of 1566 between 1 000 and 2 000 were engaged on the project.
The works progressed through the winter months – breaking the traditional winter closed-
season for works.
The following May, that is May 1567, Laparelli listed various items of works which remained
to be carried out in Valletta – the ditch on the land front had to be excavated; the material
excavated was to be used for the glacis; various gateways had to be made in the ditch and
counterscrap; the material excavated had to be used as in-filling where it was unlikely to be
affected during bombardments. When it was possible to do without disturbing the building of
the front, the material removed from the high ground was to be used to build up thick walls
in those parts where there were no natural ramparts.
Once the walls were raised they were to be backed by terrapins of well-rammed earth which
would protect the masonry from the effects of Sun and elements – erosion in other words.
To prevent any damage to the newly constructed walls through heat, it was necessary to
keep them well moistened so that the mortar could dry out slowly and act as an effective
binding agent. It was decided to might as well cease stone-laying altogether during the hot
Summer months and use respite to build supplies of mortar, sand and cut stone. There are,
however, certain discrepancies between Laparelli’s designs, the various reproductions
based on his plan published after 1566 and the works carried out. Examples of such include

15
many cavaliers shown on the plan but only two – that of Saint John and Saint James were
ever built; the galley-pen, the manderaggio and the ship repair yard, the arsenal were
likewise never executed – Map 4.

Map 4 Valletta in early 1600’s

After the above mentioned report was submitted, Laparelli submitted a tentative schedule of
works to be undertaken in the twelve months from June 1st 1567 to May 51st 1568,
assuming the workforce of 4 000 men. This estimate was based on the volume of work
carried out in the previous year. The ditch, which was still some 16 palms short of the
required depth of 40 palms, was to be deepened. Laparelli proposed to allocate to this task
half the workforce, who should be able to complete it in those twelve months. The other half
would be employed on the lateral walls, either carving ramparts out of rock, or in building up
masonry walls, according to the dictates of the terrain.
No wall building was to take place in the immediately ensuing three and a half months. The
construction of magazines to store artillery, munitions and victuals during a siege and of
bakeries, cisterns, corn and power mills was also to be undertaken. Laparelli estimated that
in twelve months the new city would be in a defendable state, given a further year the
enceinte might be completed, but would be many years before a full-fledged city emerged.
From May 26th report it is apparent that in the first year of construction Laparelli had
concentrated on building the land front of Valletta, while at the same time repairing Fort
Saint Elmo.
In 1569 it was decreed that all stone to be used in the building of Valletta was to be quarried
from the manderaggio. Unfortunately, eventually a layer of stone unsuitable for building was

16
encountered before the sea level was reached. This together with the realization that the
Marsamxetto Harbour did not afford sufficient shelter in rough weather led to the
abandonment of the site and unplanned mass of slum dwelling spring up in the old quarry –
only to be completely ridden off in the late 1950’s, during the post World War Two
reconstruction of Valletta.

In concluding this chapter of this project, we can mention some other facts related to the
foundation of Valletta.
• Promises must be kept
Despite the shortage of work-men and the time schedule brought forward about the
Turk’s impending return, Laparelli believed that the knights had no alternative but to
proceed with Valletta if they were to fulfill their obligation towards the rulers who had so
generously contributed to the building of Valletta.
• Main Sponsor
The main sponsor of the City of Valletta was Saint Pius V, a Domenican – Illustration 2
• Palaeo-Public Relations Exercise
Both the Order and Laparelli appreciated the importance of supplying up-to-date
progress reports to interested foreign parties. The military engineer probably saw this as
an excellent opportunity of acquainting prospective patron with his work, while the Order
was dependent on the rulers of goodwill if the project was to be completed.
• The Maltese architect Gerolamo Cassar
By April 1558, Laparelli was confident that his assistant, the Maltese Gerolamo Cassar,
if well briefed in what to be done, could be left in command while he visited Cortona to
attend to family business. As what happens in similar circumstances, the master gives
instructions to his subordinate, allowing him little scope to show initiative. These
instructions, during Laparelli’s absence from work could proceed on to a predetermined
point and no further. Laparelli returned to Malta towards the end of 1568 and supervised
the works until his final departure from the Island about a year later.
• The tragic end of Francesco Laparelli da Cortona
One of the reasons put forward by Laparelli when he resigned from the service of the
Order was the desire to gain military glory. When he was on active service to the
Venetians he died of plague on October 26th, 1570 in Candia – today’s Crete, during the
Candian War.
• Transition from Birgu to the new city of Valletta
The Chapter General held in November 1569 decided to move the Convent from Birgu
to Valletta. After a delay of over a year the transfer was effectively made in March 1571.
• The bastions
The bastions are about eleven canes thick, the lower parts were cut out of solid rock, six
canes wide and five canes shoulders.

17
HOSPITALLER

MILITARY

ARCHITECTURE

18
 FORT SAINT ELMO
Introduction and site description
Fort Saint Elmo is situated at the tip of the peninsula upon which the Valletta was build to
the plan of Francesco Laparelli da Cortona – Plan 1 and Plate 1. The Fort saveguards the
entry to the two natural harbours, the Grand Harbour and Marsamxetto Harbour, and is
surrounded by the sea and its landfront is connected to the rest of the city by a stretch of
land some seven hundred metres wide. Fort Saint Elmo complex has an approximate
footprint of 50 400 square metres. This would include the original fort and the extended
outworks along the bastions. The confines of the Fort are all bounded within the bastion
walls of a changing profiles. On the land-front side there is a deeply cut ditch. The highest
point of the Fort is circa fifty metres above sea level.
The main gate of the Fort is accessible from the land-front glacis by means of a stone
bridge over the ditch. The approach from the main gate leads to a vaulted passageway to
the upper parade ground. Within the Fort there is a small chapel of del Soccorso. Besides
the extensive bastion walls, the main architectural elements of historical value include the
upper and lower parade ground, the magazines surrounding the internal piazza, the gate
houses and the gun emplacements. The Drill Hall is accessible from Spur Street today
houses the National War Museum including a small yard in front the Museum. The lower
parade ground is bounded on one side by a three-storey block known as the Pinto
magazines which today been occupied by constructors of Carnival floats and squatters. A
number of individual buildings in the lower parade ground are in a dilapidated state. A long
underground water tank near the Vendrome bastion with a capacity of over a million gallons
still serves to store rainwater run-off from surrounding areas. In front of the land-front
fortifications of Fort Saint Elmo, the open glacis contains underground bell-shaped
granaries, which were used for the storage of wheat. Today, the granaries are no longer in
use and the open space serves as a parking area.
The land-front ditch served as a Botanical Gardens and serviced the medical school of the
Order. Nowadays the ditch of the Fort is partly used as a training ground by the Police
Academy. The walls of the Fort, together with the Examinations Centre and the Evans
Laboratories form Ditch Square. The British had intended to cut the rock between the two
Harbours and to transform the Fort into an island. However due to the considerable financial
outlay required they abandoned the project.
The two principal streets of Valletta, Republic Street and Merchants’ Street stretch from the
main entrance of the City all the way to Fort Saint Elmo. The unobstructed visual sightlines
along these straight streets permit distant views of the Fort from the upper and central parts
of Valletta.
Fort Saint Elmo in history
When the Knights of Saint John arrived in Malta in 1530 they set up their base in the
maritime city of Birgu and Fort Saint Angelo. However, from a strategic military point of view
it soon became apparent that any defense of the Grand Harbour and Marsamxetto Harbour
necessitated a conversion of the existing medieval watchtower to a strong fort at the tip of
the Sheb-ir-Ras peninsula. The Order was in a dire financial situation and the first of a
series of proposals to build a fort on Sheb-ir-Ras was made to Grand Master Juan De
Homedes by Antonio Ferrandino da Bergamo in 1541. It was, however, on the
recommendation of the Italian engineer Count Pietro Pardo Strozzi the Prior of Capua that
Fort Saint Elmo was finally constructed on the barren rock at the tip of Sheb-ir-Ras.

19
 Plan 1 Fort Saint Elmo

In 1551 after a scanting attack by the Turks when they pillaged and ransacked the island
with hardly any opposition, Strozzi made a case for the immediate need to build a strong fort
to strengthen the harbour defenses. On January 8th, 1552, Grand Master De Homedes
instructed Strozzi together with knights Fra George Bombast, Fra Louis Lastic and Pietro
Prato to design and supervise the construction of Fort Saint Elmo. The designers of the Fort
were only given six months, up till June, to complete its construction. The original small
chapel to Saint Elmo was retained within the walls of the fort.
The newly constructed fort consisted of a small star shaped design with angled bastions.
The walls were relatively thin and they were no higher than the level of the ground behind
the fort. The fort lacked any outworks as in normally the case and its purpose was defend
against any invaders from the sea and it afforded no protection from any land invasion.
Numerous contemporary historians have given a detailed description of the Great Siege;
hence, there is no need to recount the episode in this work. However, we shall briefly
discuss the role of Saint Elmo in this siege.

The Turkish fleet appeared off the islands on May 18th, 1565 and landed the main body of
the army at Marsaxlokk, setting a camp at Zabbar, facing Birgu. After a war conference,
Dragut attacked Fort Saint Elmo with all his forces, erecting shelters in front of the fort to
protect his artillery from its guns. These shelters were small obstacles to the Saint Elmo
gunners, who repeatedly demolished them; and, so long as the fort held out, it was
impossible for the Turks to make full use of Sheb-ir-Ras from which artillery could so easily
dominate the Birgu and Fort Saint Angelo. Attach after attack was pressed home onto Saint
Elmo, but the solid stone walls of this glorious Fort deflected many of the shots, and the
ditches, largely excavated from the solid rock, made mining a slow process. Withering fire
from the mass of the Turkish cannon finally broke down the walls and reduced all to rabble.
When infilade fire from guns prevented further reinforcements from being send over from

20
the Birgu, infantry closed in for a final kill, with ladders, bridges and wooden towers, whilst
twenty-two huge catapults bombarded and demolished what was left of the ramparts. On
June 23rd, the eve of the Feast of Saint John – the Order’s main feast, Fort Saint Elmo fell,
and the last of its 1 300 defenders died.
This brave resistance seriously delayed the attack against the main entrance on the other
side of the Grand Harbour, and gave the Knights opportunity to call for assistance from
Sicily. With the defenders of Fort Saint Elmo removed the Turks were now able to mount
their guns on the high ground facing Fort Saint Angelo and Fort Saint Michael. The main
assault was opened but, though constantly breached, the defenders’ line finally held.
The Turkish soldiers were discouraged when their repeated attacks were repulsed; and
finally wasted by disease and wounds, they felt in no condition to fight the reinforcements,
which arrived from Sicily on September 7th. On the morrow what was left of the Turkish army
packed up their wounded and withdrew to Saint Paul’s Bay where the last fights of the Great
Siege were held.
Steps for rebuilding Fort Saint Elmo were taken immediately after the Siege by the Knights.
Laparelli made the plans for Fort Saint Elmo and this fort was one of the first structures to
be completed. The original design in the form of a star was retained but with stronger walls
and deeper ditches. In 1689 a new series of fortifications known as the Carafa Bastions
were designed by Fra Carlos de Gruninberg and built under the supervision of the Order’s
French military engineer Mederico Blondel.

During the course of the eighteenth century various barracks were built around the internal
piazza within the Fort. During the long reign of Grand Master Pinto (1741-1773), nineteen
large vaulted magazines on three floors were constructed in the outworks along the Carafa
Bastions. These structures were intended for the storage of food and as a shelter for
women and children in the event of a siege.

21
Within the precincts of Fort Saint Elmo are two religious buildings. The old chapel which had
existed since 1488 was incorporated near the gate to the Fort, referred to as del Soccorso –
Plan 2. The chapel was re-dedicated to Saint Anne in the mid-sixteenth century. The chapel
although of modest dimensions is embellished with ornate carvings that date to the
seventeenth century. Another chapel also dedicated to Saint Anne and which has an early
eighteenth century Baroque façade overlooking the piazza was desecrated during the
British period and its interior completely remodeled.

Plan 2 The Chapel of Saint Anne

During the British period, between 1866 and 1877, the defensive outworks were
strengthened by the construction of gun emplacements and embrasures on the spurs of the
cavaliers facing the harbour. Within the bastion walls of Fort Saint Elmo are buried two
distinguished British Officers who are General Sir Ralph Abercrombie and the first British
Governor of Malta Sir Alexander Ball.

Plan 3 Front elevation of Fort Saint Elmo

22
A circular stone lighthouse some 56 feet in height and a total of 206 feet above sea level
used to dominate the skyline of Fort Saint Elmo and served as a guiding light to incoming
ships. This lighthouse was demolished in 1940 for security reasons as it could have served
as a landmark for the enemy aircraft during the Second World War.

Plate 2 Saint Gregory Bastion

The ditch of the Fort used to house the Botanical Gardens, which provided a source of
medicinal plants for the school of Anatomy of the Order. Sir Alexander Ball later transferred
these gardens to Floriana before he died in 1804.
During the Second World War on June 11th, 1940 the first bombs from the Italian Regia
Aeronautica were delivered to the fort effecting the first casualties of the said war. In 1942
the Italians – Decima Mas - made a daring sea attack on the Grand Harbour, using E Boats,
which was over in less than five minutes with the complete destruction of the attacking
force.
As from 1988, the Police Academy was accommodated with the precincts of Fort Saint
Elmo.
In March 1997, Fort Saint Elmo and Environs Development Brief – First Draft,
Commissioned by the Valletta Rehabilitation Project and prepared by the Local Plans Unit,
Planning Authority was published. Action is being taken to conserve and rehabilitate this
National Monument for future generations.

23
 Plate 3 Fort Saint Elmo – Ditch and Saint Gregory Curtain

Plate 4 Fort Saint Elmo – Saint John Bastion (foreground) and Saint Ubaldesca
Curtain

24
 MILITARY ARCHITECTURAL TERMS
We now come towards the end of this project, and, therefore, now is the time to explain via
photographs and illustrations the various military architectural terms which we encountered
in the introductory part of this project.

Bastion : A fortified work built at the salient angles of polygonal

ramparts.
Bulwark : A rampart usually placed forward to protect an entrance.

Casemates : Vaulted chambers for guns.

Cavalier : An inner defensive work raised higher than the other lines of
Fortification. In Malta, usually a five-sided fort.
Citadel : A fortress dominating a city – last line of defense.
Counterguard : A protective work in front of a bastion.
Curtain : A wall of fortification. A line defended by bastions.

Demi-Bastion : A half bastion protecting a curtain.

Demilune : A detached triangular work built in the moat.

Echauguette : A sentry-box corbelled out from the angle of a rampart.

Enceintre : The enclosure of the fortifications.
Escarpment : Ground cut so that it slopes away from a line of fortifications.
The face of a line.

Fausse-braie : A space left at foot of a rampart next to the moat for defense,
protected by a parapet.

Hornwork : A work outside the main line of fortifications. It is detached on

the front to the attack.

Outworks : Any defensive works placed beyond the main line of

Fortifications and detached.

Platform : A level place for mounting guns in a battery.

Rampart : A line wide enough at the top to allow the passage of troops,
And usually battered to deflect shot.
Ravelin : A small detached triangular work with two faces.

Scrap : The revetted face of a rampart.

Tenaille : A detached oblong work with the ends projecting outwards at

an obtuse angle.
Trace : A ground plan of a defense system.

25
 Plan 4 Saint John Cavalier – a cutaway diagram.

Plate 5 Fort Saint Elmo – Casemate and Musketry loopholes.

26
Plan 5 Saint Michael’s counterguard to protect Saint
Michael’s demi-bastion – Marsamxetto side.

Plan 6 Cutaway diagram showing the layout

of the various works of the Valletta landfront.

27
BIOGRAPHIES OF

ARCHITECTS

& MILITARY

ENGINEERS

1530-1798

28
The following is a concise biography of the various Military Architects and Engineers –
Maltese and foreign who have worked on the fortifications of Valletta. They are given in
alphabetical order and not in chronological order. This list has been reduced only to those
who have actually worked upon the fortifications mentioned in this project.

Barbara, Giovanni
Maltese architect and engineer born about 1670 in Lija and died in 1730 and buried in his
native village. He was famous both in Malta and abroad as a military engineer. He was
employed upon the Floriana Defences and built the Sa Maison skew arch, sometimes called
arco Barbara, a work which is rightly considered by many a marvel of construction. His
architectural works include the parish church of Tas-Salvatur in Lija (1694); Saint James for
the langue of Castille in Valletta (1710); the Magisterial Palace in Mdina and the Seminary in
the same city both in circa 1732.

Bonici, Giuseppe
Maltese architect born in 1707. From an early age he showed an inclination for architecture
and at twelve he was continually drawing, with little assistance from his elders. Helped by
his father, he entered the studio of Giovanni Barbara, and under his direction, carried out
work on the Floriana Defences. It is not known how long he spent with Barbara, but by the
time he had reached the age of twenty-six he had begun to design on his own. His works in
Valletta included the Church of Saint Barbara, the Customs House and several houses in
the same city. Bonici died in 1779 at the age of seventy-two.

Campi, Scipione
An Italian military engineer born in Pesaro and died in Liege in 1579. He found himself in
Malta after the great siege of 1565, where he came in company with several other engineers
to consult upon the new city of Valletta then being proposed by Laparelli assisted by
Gerolamo Cassar. He noted various errors and suggested improvements in Valletta and on
the older defenses, including work on Fort Saint Michael. Returning to Italy, he was sent to
Flanders by Serbelloni, where he served under Don John of Austria and assisted in building
the Meuse Fort on a hill not far from Namur. He was probably wounded in the attack on
Maestricht and died of his wounds at Liege.

Cassar, Gerolamo
Maltese architect whose work has been more publicized than that of any other architect in
Malta. He was born in 1520 and died in 1586. In architecture and military engineering he
was a student of the Maltese engineer Evangelista della Menga and the Italian Francesco
Laparelli. During his stay in Malta Laparelli so well trained Cassar in the building of
fortifications, that without Laparelli’s help Cassar could continue very well and perfect the
building of the city of Valletta. As soon as new came that the Turks were directing their
attention to Cyprus, Cassar wished to show his work for the benefit of the Republic of
Venice, so he got permission from the Grand Master and Council to leave Malta for that
purpose. On his return he continued his works in Valletta to the great satisfaction of the
whole Convent. He was honoured by the Order in various manners – his two sons were also
received in the Religion as servants-at-arms, the elder of whom, having taken his father’s

29
profession, made rapid advances in fortification : designing the well known tower of Sarza
on the shore of the island of Gozo.
Cassar’s major works including all the buildings of Valletta designed before the year 1581
including the Auberges; the Magisterial palace; his masterpiece the Conventual Church of
Saint John; Valletta’s Parish Churches of Saint Paul and Saint Domenic’s; the Carmelite
church – now demolished; the church of Saint Augustine; the ta’ Giezu church; the Order’s
Bakery; the mills as well as several private houses. Not mentioned are all his works done
outside the walls of Valletta.

Dingli, Tommaso
A Maltese architect who was born in Attard in the year 1591 and died in 1666 at the age of
75. He was born at the time when it was necessary to fortify the Island at the greatest
speed, and at an early age, in common with other children who showed the slightest
inclination towards architecture, he was put to work in an artist’s studio. He designed the old
Porta Reale. He is credited with design of many parish churches, to mention a few, those of
Attard, Naxxar (1616), Zabbar (1641), Gharghur (1638) and Gudja (1656). His ability was
praised by Giovanni de’ Medici, with whom he became friendly.

Ferramolino, Antonio
An Italian military engineer from Bergamo. Very little is known about his early works, but he
seems to have gone with Charles V on the successful expedition against Tunis in 1535 and
to have served in the campaign in Sicily. In 1541 he was sent by Charles V to Malta to give
service to the Order, and he lived on the Island for many years. It was he who first
suggested the building of a powerful fortress on the hill behind Fort Saint Elmo, where
Valletta now stands; as he said, this position would command both ports and bar them to an
enemy. He was involved in the various preparations of the fortifications of Birgu in the years
before the Great Siege of 1565 – it is not our scope to discuss these in this project.

Floriani, Pietro Paolo

An Italian military engineer born at Macerata in 1585 and died in 1638. He have embarked
on a brilliant career of enlarging the fortresses of Europe and his own reputation; and often
with little respect for the military necessity and the financial consideration of his clients; a
fault to his age. In 1627 he was nominated Castellan of the Castle of Saint Angelo in Rome
and Governor of the armies in Umbria. It was then that he visited Rome and complied his
treatise on Difesa et ofesa delle piazze.
At the close of 1634, Pope Urban VIII received a request from the Grand Master of the
Order for the services of an able military architect. Floriani was chosen and arrived on the
island in the following year. On the high ground beyond the land defenses of Valletta he built
a great walled enceinte upon a rectangular plan, with elaborate ditches, lunettes, teneille
and counterguards : the whole complex being dominated by a horn works of great size. His
work came in for considerable criticism and returned to Italy disgusted with the turn of
events. Another Italian engineer and a Commission to investigate the dissatisfaction were
requested, and Cardinal Vincenzo Maculano da Firenzuola d’ Arda was sent to Malta by the
Pope. Floriani was to some extent vindicated, and the defenses were carried on to
completion. Both these defenses and the new suburb, which grew up in the shelter of their
walls, were named after their designer – Floriana.

30
 Gerolamo Cassar

Francesco Laparelli da Cortona

31
 Genga, Bartolomeo
An Italian military engineer born at Cesena, Italy in 1516 and died in Malta in 1559. He
studied painting and architecture, first under his father and later in Rome and Florence,
which he visited about the age of twenty-one. He served as an engineer to the Pope and
Duke Cosimo, who sent him to review the mainland fortresses of Venice. At the end of 1558
the Grand Master requested his services in Malta and sent Cesare Visconti to Pesaro to
obtain the permission of the Grand Duke. After a lot of difficulty, Genga was permitted to
sail with Visconti on January 20th, 1558 and they landed in Malta on March 11th after being
delayed by bad weather off Sicily. Genga prepared to fortify the Birgu, Saint Elmo and
L’Isola Senglea, and required the whole population to be put to work on these new
fortifications. He also enlarged the bulwarks and ditches in front of the posts of Provence,
Auvergne, France, Aragon and Castille – which paid dividends during the Great Siege. He
also sent galleys of the Order to Comino, Gozo and as far as Sicily in search of brushwood
and firewood.
Finding that both the Birgu and the Fort of Saint Michael were too low to fortify adequately,
and because the Order’s coffers seemed well filled, he again broached the subject of a new
city on the hill behind Fort Saint Elmo and prepared a model. His plan included a large area
than that which was later laid out by Laparelli, and its front extended forward towards the
Marsa so that the guns would cover the high ground at Corradino and the water hole on the
Mars, to prevent the enemy making use of them. Nothing was done on the new city because
of the need to improve the existing defenses immediately. Genga is also reported to have
made designs for some churches and the Magisterial palace.
He was the most important Italian architect to visit Malta in the sixteenth century, and
although his visit was cut short by his death, he may have helped Gerolamo Cassar and
influenced his work.

Grunenberg, Don Carlos de

Military engineer to the King of Spain in Sicily. He arrived in Malta on January 29th 1681 and
on March 15th reported to the Council on the state of the fortifications – displaying stone
models to illustrate his proposals. The work he proposed was undertaken and in 1687 he
paid another visit to the island to inspect the progress. A further report dated February 26th
was put before the Council for discussion. Grunenberg proposed that fausse-braie should
be built on the foreshore to give sweeping fire across the water and provide better
protection for the ports. He also advocated building four new batteries on Fort Saint Angelo.
His scheme was approved but the work was deferred until the completion of the Floriana
fortifications, because lack of funds. However, Grunenberg generously offered to build three
of the new batteries at his own expense.

Lanci d’ Urbino, Baldassare

An Italian military engineer born towards the beginning of the sixteenth century at Urbino
and died in Florence in 1571. He was a student of Gerolamo Genga and later spent some
time working at Lucca as a military engineer. He was called to Malta to help in the
preparations for the defense of the island. According to Bosio he was the most excellent
engineer of his day. Lanci made a model of the new city on the hill behind Fort Saint Elmo,
which had been proposed by Ferramolino and Genga, but his plan was more practical than
Genga’s, for the city proposed was far more smaller. As the front would thus be much
shorter he felt that it could be more easily defended. His stay in Malta was for little than

32
three months, for in August 1562 he wrote to Cosimo on the progress of the Siena
Fortifications.

Laparelli da Cortona, Francesco

An Italian architect and military engineer born at Cortona in 1521 and died of plague at
Candia (today’s Crete) on October 26th, 1570, at the age of 49. Little is known about his
youth except that he worked for Duke Cosimo I and Pius IV, preparing the defenses of
Civita Vecchia and Rome and that he corroborated with Michelangelo on the building of
Saint Peter’s. Since we have already mentioned Laparelli in the chapter on the Foundation
of Valletta we shall now briefly discuss his stay in Malta.
Regarding the new city se boasted that “If the Turks do not come it would be harmful and
reproachful to leave without being driven away”. He planned several buildings and obviously
considered the architectural and town planning aspects. The Codex Laparelli contains on
page 1, “the plan in perspective of a noble house of the sixteenth century on two floors”.
The second appendix, running to twelve pages, refers to the accounts of expenses made
between 21st October 1566 and March 22nd 1567 in respect of a house Laparelli had begun
to build in Valletta. This makes it clear that the layout of the streets was considered from the
beginning and that the building of houses actually begun before the enceinte of the
fortifications was complete.

Menga, Evangelista della

Maltese architect and military engineer practicing in the sixteenth century. He was a teacher
of Gerolamo Cassar.

Serbelloni, Gabrio
An Italian military engineer born at Milan in 1509 and died in Italy in January 1580. He was
of noble birth and cousin to Pope Pius IV. In his youth he enlisted in the service of the
Knights Hospitallers. It was at Cortona that Serbelloni came into contact with Laparelli, an
acquaintance he was to renew later in Malta. It was in the year 1561 that the Pope received
a request for the services of Serbelloni from the Grand Master. La Valette was willing to
invest Serbelloni with the Habit of the Religion and confer on him the Commanderies of
Ferrara and Montecchio, in order to acquire the services of such important engineer and
soldier. The Pope wanted more and insisted on the conferment of the Priory of Hungary,
which was approved in Council on February 29th 1562. He arrived in Malta after the Great
Siege, most probably, in 1566. In Malta he was consulted on the plan prepared for the new
city of Valletta by Laparelli and this he approved, writing in its praise to the Pope and the
King of Spain.
Being of a diplomatic disposition he soon gained the confidence of La Valette, who told him
of the bad intentions of the Viceroy of Sicily toward the Order. On March 14th, he left Malta
and sailed for Messina in a galley of the Order. There he met Don Garzia, the Viceroy, and
was so successful in bringing about a reconciliation between the Viceroy and the Grand
Master, that the former promised to send immediate aid in the form of money, men and
materials, for the building of the new city.

33
 THE

WALLS

OF
VALLETTA

34
FINAL LOOK AT THE FORTIFICATIONS
Before ending this project, we must go around Valletta’s fortified walls one final time to
admire these great military works-of-art from the air land and sea.

Plate 6 The present Mount Sheb-ir-Ras from South West

In this photo we see the present day Valletta’s fortifications in their glory. Omitted,
unfortunately, from the photo are the Horn Works, which extend outside the right hand
corner of the frame – see Map 1 on page 4. Floriana is in the foreground, while Valletta is in
the background.
In the next pages we shall see the walls and other fortifications from various angles to
admire them and also to learn from them various lessons. The foremost being Valletta was
not built in a day – meaning that we have to be patient and work assiduously to achieve
anything that will make our parents proud of us like we are proud of our forefathers who
have built Valletta through determination and hard work.

Pavla Antonia Meli

Saint Dorothy Convent
Mdina
March 28th, 1998 – Valletta’s Foundation Day, 432 years later.

35
 Plate 7 North East view – Valletta Landfront.

Plate 8 Landfront view - Saint Michael Counterguard & demi-Bastion,

Tenaille, Ditch and Saint John Bastion & Counterguard.

36
Plate 9 Landfront East view - Saint Michael Counterguard and
Sentrybox (guardiola) guarding Marsamxetto Harbour.

37
Plate 10

Plate 11

38
Plate 10
North West view of the Valletta Fortifications – left
to right – German Curtain, Saint Saviour Bastion,
Mandaraggion Curtain, Saint Andrew Bastion, Saint
Michael Counterguard & demi-Bastion and Tenaille.

Plate 11
North West view of the Valletta Fortifications – left
to right – German Curtain, St. Saviour Bastion,
Mandaraggion Curtain.
Also visible on the left-hand side of the plate are
Saint Paul Anglican Cathedral replacing the
demolished the Anglo-German Auberge and the new
Carmelite church which replaced the one built by
Gerolamo Cassar.

Plate 12
South West view – Valletta Seafront.
Right to left : the ones mentioned in Plates 10 & 11,
Saint Sebastian Curtain, English Curtain, French
Curtain, Saint Gregory Bastion, Saint Gregory
Curtain, Conception Bastion, Santa Ubaldesca
Curtain, Saint John Bastion (at Saint Elmo), Saint
Ubaldesca Curtain, Saint Lazarus Bastion, Saint
Lazarus Curtain and Saint Christopher Bastion.

Plate 13
South East view – Left to right : Liesse Curtain Saint,
Barbara Bastion, Saint Lucia Curtain, Saint
Christopher Bastion and on the extreme right end
Saint Lazarus Bastion toped with the World War Two
Monument and the Lower Barakka incorporating Sir
Alexander Ball Memorial.

39
Plate 12

Plate 13

40
Plate 14 Grand Harbour front - Saint Barbara Bastion, Liesse Curtain,
Lascaris Counterguard and the Saints Peter and Paul Bastion - (Upper
Barakka). On the extreme left of the plate are the Floriana Bastions.

Plate 15 Saint James Curtain. Auberge de Castille dominates this section

of the Valletta Fortifications. Granaries are to be found on this Curtain,
situated under the landscaped garden in front of Auberge de Castille.

41
Plate 16 Grand Harbour front – Liesse Curtain, Saint Barbara Bastion, Saint
Lucy Curtain, Saint Christopher Bastion and Saint Lazarus Curtain view
from Saints Peter and Paul Bastion. On the right of the plate is Fort Ricasoli.

Plate 17 Saints Peter and Paul Bastion and Saint Peter Counterguard. An
early seventies view of the Barakka Lift now demolished, however, plans
are in hand to re-establish the Lift again.

42
Plate 18 Saint James Counterguard with Sentrybox overlooking the Grand
Harbour.

Plate 19 Grand Harbour flank : from right to left – Lascaris Counterguard,

Saints Peter and Paul Bastion, Saint Peter Counterguard with Sentrybox,
Saint James Cavalier and Saint James Bastion. On the shoreline one can
see the Customs House built by Bonici in 1774 near Mina Lascaris. The
Barakka lift is missing from this contemporary postcard – compare with
plate 17. Ta’ Liesse Church is to be seen on the extreme right of this palate.

43
 REFERENCES
The following is a list of books and other documents consulted for this
project :

• Valetta , by Temi Zammit

• Bliet u Rhula Maltin, by Alfie Guillaumier.
• A History of Maltese Architecture, by Leonard Mahoney
• A City By An Order, by Roger Degiorgio.
• The Building of Malta, by Quentin Hughes.
• The Knights Fortifications, by Stephen Spiteri.
• Medieval and Early Renaissance Architecture in Malta, by J.B. Ward
• Malta and Gibraltar, edited by Allister MacMillian.
• The Fortifications of Malta, by Alison Hoppen
• Valletta and the three Cities, by Harrison and Hubbard
• Valletta 1566-1798 an Epitome of Europe, by Victor Mallia Milanes
• Various Articles in the Times of Malta and other newspaper
clippings, Joseph M. Meli Collection.

All the above mentioned works are in the Melitensia Section of my father’s library.

A list of places where various original documents were consulted for this
project :

• The Library of the Malta University;

• The National Library of Malta - Valletta.

44
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
MAP 1 Topology and Geography of Mount Sheb-ir-Ras.
2 The Fortifications of Valletta.
3 Modern-day Valletta.
4 Valletta in the early 1600’s.

PLAN 1 Fort Saint Elmo.

2 The Chapel of Saint Anne at Saint Elmo.
3 Front Elevation of Fort Saint Elmo.
4 Saint John Cavalier – a cutaway diagram.
5 Saint Michael Counterguard.
6 Cutaway diagram showing various works of the Valletta
landfront.

ILLUSTRATION 1 Grand Master Jean de la Valette.

2 Medal, Medallion and Patacca.

PLATE 1 Ariel-view of Fort Saint Elmo.

2 Saint Gregory Bastion.
3 Saint Gregory Bastion & Curtain and Ditch.
4 Saint John Bastion and Saint Ubaldesca Curtain.
5 Fort Saint Elmo – Casemate and Musketery loopholes.
6 The present-day Mount Sheb-ir-Ras.
7 Valletta Lanfront.
8 South West view of the Valletta Bastions - Landfront.
9 Saint Michael Counterguard and Sentrybox.
10 North West view of the Valletta Fortifications.
11 Close up view of plate 10.
12 Valletta Bastions - Seafront.
13 South East view of the Valletta Bastions - Seafront.
14 Grand Harbour Front – view from North.
15 Saint James Curtain.
16 Grand Harbour Front – view from South.
17 Saints Peter and Paul Bastion.
18 Saint James Counterguard.
19 Grand Harbour Front – Customs House area.
20 Coat-of-Arms, Valletta – Malta.

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Plate 20 Coat-of-Arms, Valletta – Malta.

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