Multi Layer Fabric Design Rules

Double Layer Tubular Fabric

Double Layer Tubular Fabrics

Double Layer Tubular Fabrics can be made on Shuttle Looms, as the possibility of hair pin selvedge. There is no definition of Face or Back yarn as per the concern of loom warp beam or weft used. It is only the Weave that cause the usual single beam and usual weft to result into a tubular double layer fabric.

Double Layer Tubular Fabrics

We consider arrangement of warp and weft yarn as of two different layers yarns. i.e. each next warp is considered to be of face and back both in warp and weft so the order, for both warp and weft, will be considered as:
FB,FB, . F = Face Yarn B = Back Yarn
Face Pick

Back Pick

Pick Cycle, Cross section

Double Layer Fabrics Rules

Looking at face, back, and warp, weft we have 4 types of weave possible as follows:
1. 2. 3. 4. When Face Warp weave with Face Picks When Back Warp weave with Back Picks When Face Warp weave with Back Picks When Back Warp weave with Face Picks.

Double Layer Fabrics Rules

Looking at these four kind of interaction we have four rules to make a double layer tubular fabric.
1. Face Warp weave with Face picks as per weave design required on face layer 2. Back warp weave with back picks as per weave design required on back layer 3. All face warps are up on back picks 4. All back warps are down on face picks

Double Layer Tubular Fabric

Rule #: 1 f - b f b f f 3 x x x x f f f f 4 . . . . 2 o c c o

f f f f

x x b x x b f

o . c . o . c .

x b x x b x f

c . o . c . o .

x x b x x b f

o . c . o . c .

x b x x b x f

c . o . c . o .

Multi Layer Fabric Design Rules

Double Layer Open-width Fabric

Double Layer open-width

The picking order is the only change in weave design required in design of double layer tubular fabric to make double layer open-width fabrics. If two picks or each layer are combined the openwidth fabric is resulted. i.e.
FFBB BBFF FBBF BFFB

Double Layer open-width

Also picking start point matters, fabric with be open from the side of starting side of picking if order is:
FBBF BFFB

And fabric will be open from other side as of where first picking is inserted for the following orders:
FFBB BBFF

Double Layer open-width

Rule #: 1 f - b f b f f 3 x x x x f f f f 4 . . . . 2 o c c o

f f f f

x x b x x b f

o . c . o . c .

x b x x b x f

c . o . c . o .

x x b x x b f

o . c . o . c .

x b x x b x f

c . o . c . o .

f f f f

x x b x x b f

. o c . . o c .

b x x b x x f

. c o . . c o .

x x b x x b f

. o c . . o c .

b x x b x x f

. c o . . c o .

-->

Tubula Double Layer

Double Layer open-width

Multi Layer Fabric Design Rules

Double Layer Open-width Fabric With Same Desired Weave on Back

Customizing Back Weave

When we have some asymmetric weave like 3/1 twill etc. then the open-width fabric will not have the same weave on whole opened width but back of the fabric when opened to full width will have 1/3 twill. So, as we see the fabric from above, we have to use the inverse of the weave that we want to be shown on the back surface. Also if we want to have continuous lines, unbroken lines of twills, we must have back layer weave to have a continous order of the warp threads when pick returns from face layer to back layer. Also we must have face and warp threads multiple of warps in a weave.

Customizing Back Weave

Rule #: 1 f - b b f b b b f b b f b - b f f f 1 2 3 b b b f 4 o c c c c c c o 2 c c o c c o c c x x x x f x x x x f 3 x x x x f x x x x f f f f f . . . . . . . . 4 . . . . . . . .

f f f f

x x b b x x b f

. o c . . c c .

b x x b b x x f

. c c . . c o .

b x x b x x b f

. c c . . o c .

b x x b x x b f

. c o . . c c .

Double Layer Open-width Fabric, With out Continous Lines and Same Weave

Back Layer Weaves Usual o c c c 1 c c c o 2 c c o c 3 c o c c 4 Inverse c o o o 1 x x b b x x b o o o c 2 . o c . . o o . o o c o 3 b x x b b x x o c o o 4 . o o . . c o . b x x b x x b

Inverse & Mirror

Customizing Back Weave

o c o o 4 b x x b x x b

o o c o 3 . c o . . o o .

o o o c 2

c o o o 1

f f f f

. o o . . o c .

f f f f 1 2 3 4 4 3 2 1
Doubl e La yer Open-wi dth Fa bri c, After revers i ng a nd mi rrori ng the Ba ck La yer Wea ve, for Continous Twi l l Li nes

Multi Layer Fabric Design Rules

Double Layer Stitching

Stitching Types
Multi-layer Fabrics can be stitched in three ways:
Raiser Stitching Sinker Stitching Extra End Stitching

Raiser and Sinker Stitching

Raiser Stitching is produce by deviating the fourth rule, All back warps are down on face picks. Therefore Raising Back Warp Over Face Pick, will result in raiser stitching. Sinker Stitching is produce by deviating the third rule, All face warps are up on back picks. Therefore Sinking Face Warp Under Back Pick, will result in sinker stitching. For a given weave of face and back,

Stitching Rules
Generally stitching are done so that they are not apparent either over face or under back. So general rule of stitching is it must not disturb the weave from the layer where it is being raised nor where it is being taken. Keeping it in view there are three types of stitches w.r.t from where it is raised, and three types of stitches where it is being taken:
Desired Stitch Less Desired Stitch Undesired Stitch

From where it is being raised:

This figure shows back warp (crosses marked) being raised over face pick (filled black) The back warp is making a 2/2 weave. Case b: is undesirable raiser stitching, as float of back layer on rear side is being disturbed as back warp is going for raiser stitching of face pick number 2.
Face Wefts Back Wefts Back Warp

From where it is being raised:

Case a & Case c: are less desirable raiser stitching, as stitching just before or after the back float will be severe and stitching will not be very easy/free. Case d: is desirable raiser stitching, as stitching is smooth and easy and is not effecting the back weave.
Face Wefts Back Wefts Back Warp

To where it is being raised:

This figure shows the back warp producing stitch at face pick and its effect on face weave. The dark filled and lined yarns are face consecutive warps, picks are shown with empty wholes and hollow yarn is back warp producing raiser stitch. Case a: is desirable raised stitch, as both of the consecutive face warps hides the raised stitch and face weave is not disturbed.
Face Warp Picks Back Warp

To where it is being raised:

Case b & Case d: are less desirable raised stitch, as only one face warp, off the two consecutive face warps, hides the raised stitch. And stitch is slightly apparent at face. Case c: is undesirable raised stitch, as none of the consecutive face warps hides the raised stitch and weave is disturbed.
Face Warp Picks Back Warp

Similarly for Sinker Stitching

Similarly for sinker stitching, the face warp should neither disturbs the weave of face nor of back while making a sinker stitching:
Case a: Undesirable Sinker Stitching Case b and c: are less Desirable Sinker Stitching Case d: Desirable Sinker Stitching.

How Much Stitching

Extra End Stitching

Multi Layer Fabric Design Rules

Reversible Cloth