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AMONG THE
HIMALAYAS
Bv Major
L. A.
WADDELL
LL.D., F.L.S., etc., Indian Army Medical Corps, x\uthor of "The Buddhism of Tibet"
Wi'^/i
7iuiiieroiis Illustrations
by A. D. McCorjnick
the
Author and
others,
goo
SECOND EDITION
^^
/^-
i8,
Eldou
St.,
E.C.
The
on the
except
globe has,
one that was written about half a century ago. Since that
time,
of Tibet, have
accessible.
Roads have
Mount
Everest.
The worst
torrents
travellers' staging-houses
have been
some of the
in
regard to them
and
their
Tartar
'
tribes,
than
is
to
be found
in
Hooker's Journals.
Having
state of
visited
many
of the
less
tribes, I
some account of
my
travels
may
have traversed
on the
warlike
frontiers
the
land of the
Goorkhas
where
to the
more
who
VI
PREFACE
ancient customs, I have endeavoured some of the curious practices of these wild and
;
rescue
primitive people
and
have simplified, as
far as possible,
To
have added
in
respect to
some
or
glaciers
by Hooker
these
myself,
summary
of the descriptions of
also
by
Sherwill,
by W. T. Blanford, mostly from some reports that are buried away in more or less inaccessible Mount Everest I approached somewhat nearer journals.
geological
than
any
here
record
be
still
higher.
possibiHties
The commercial
to.
This mysterious
imminent disintegration
of China.
Its
in the world,
should alone
make
it
of commercial importance,
though most of
able and has
almost as inhospit-
able as Klondyke.
with
an
English
over
Tibet,
replacing
the
rich
that country,
and the
within the EngHsh "sphere of interest", England would not only prevent a possible Russian wedge being interposed between her Indian, Burmese and Chinese pos-
secured
sessions,
Indian
Ocean
the
Northern
Pacific,
PREFACE
The
that
illustrations are specially
will
VU
it
numerous, and
is
hoped
they
As most
of
them
spot,
artist,
are photographs,
done on the
Himalayan
all
based on
my
photographs, have
processes,
been
reproduced
by photo-mechanical
illustrations in
Hooker's
impression
in
is
like
England the
Europeanised."
am
the splendid
its
one on the
title
an
Mont
still
fresh
fields
of adventure.
Andes of
Brazil
and Peru
the
paradise
all,
of the
is
butterfly
and orchid-hunter.
And, above
interest
there
the
varied
tribes,
idyllic
ever-present
human
of the
many
Tartar
surroundings;
of
at
alluring
the
strange
inhospitable
beyond the
mountains.
The
huts,
facilities
for
travel,
in
the
way
are increasing
Sikhim
energy
British suzerainty.
Thanks
to the
agent,
Mr.
able
cane-bridges that
beset
now mostly
viii
PREFACE
become
if
ever
will
it
shall
British territory,
And
new
one of
is
is
less
than
my
journeyings
hope may
in
these
regions,
some measure, the keen enjoyment of travel in may awaken further interest in a fascinatlittle
ing
though
to
known
land,
may
are
assist in
guiding the
general
traveller
interest,
those bring
features
that
to
of greatest
and
home
the reader a
whiff of the
WADDELL.
T O
MY WIFE,
THE BRIGHT COMPANION OF SOME OF THE JOURNEYS
HEREIN DESCRIBED, THESE PAGES ARE
AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED.
CONTENTS
Page
CHAPTER
The views and
the people
difficulties
CHAPTER
Troubles at starting
jungle
II
Sikhim.
Nepalese
fair
sacrifices
Great
Rang-eet Valley
Our
The
camp
CHAPTER
Legends
III
Up the Teesta Valley to the King's Capital. The Tribes of SikhimThe Lepchas A Native Chief and his Government
Crossing
The
Landgo
CHAPTER
At the Capital
IV
The King and Queen Their relations with the British Intrigues with the Chinese Monks and Monasteries The Upper Teesta to the Tln-eshold of the Snows
136
CHAPTER V
The Alpine Lachoong Valley to the Tibetan Frontier
and Passes. Amongst the Yaks and Tibetans Tang-kar snowfield Death of a fellowTibetan guard and their captain Dong-kia and other passes'' traveller and glaciers The true Himalayas or Abode of Snow An unexplored pass, and a survey beyond into Tibet ^ 165
CHAPTER
Political
VI
Zemu
...
to
Tibet
...
Eastern
Glaciers
of Kanchen-junga
230
xii
CONTENTS
Page
CHAPTER
Through
Our food
VII
British
Bhotan to Darjeeling.
from the jungle Snakes Christian Missions Turbulent Bhotanese, and our annexation of their countiy Tibetan traders The wild horse Junction of Rang-eet and Teesta Locust plague.
239
CHAPTER
To THE Eastern
On
the
line
VIII
.^
Anglo-Chinese Convention The highest European fort in the world Jelep pass/ the ti-ade route to Lhasa and Pekin The Choombi valley, its political and sti'ategical importance How places are named Game in the Bhotanese Terai The Koch tribe Lepcha songs and music Cinchona plantations
Lingtoo
^The
of an
army
the field
Storming
255
CHAPTER
IX
etc.
The warlike Goorkhas and conquest of Nepal Their recent adoption of Hindooism The other tribes of Nepal Paradise of the orchidhunters Rhododendron forests View from Tonglu Sandook-phu,
hill
its its
"the of the poison-plant" and scenery A Nepalese frozen dead in the snow Faloot Peak Mauled by Bears Everest, names and
form
Peaks
300
CHAPTER X
The Southern Peaks and Glaciers of the
Kanchen-junga Group.
Spectre
"Singalelah ridge" a misnomer Ridge beyond Chow-banjan Camping under difficulties Yampoong yakstation and its Tibetan herdsmen ^Jongi-i and the Guicha pass to Pandim and the glaciers of Kanchen-junga Kanchen-junga, its form and structure Its worship by the natives Mr. Graham's ascent of "Kabru" Expert opinion and evidence on this claim to the highest climb.
of the Brocken
The
360
CHAPTER
XI
"
The Kang Pass for the Western Glaciers OF Kanchen-junga and for Jannu
Nepalese jealous exclusiveness.
Across the unexplored Dui and
of Eastern
Chambab passes into Nepal Divisions Geology of adjoining part of Tibet-Flight and capture of King of Sikhim Chinese intrigues in Sikhim and Tibet Western side of Kang-La Northern of Everest Nepalese guards Game Bivouac in cave Return
Nepal
cliff
394
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
Crossing a torrent by a Rickety Cane-bridge CFfontlspiece) Initial letter showing relative sizes of Everest, Mt. Blanc, etc The Himalayas of Sikhim rising above the Clouds. Entering the Mountain Train Fishing in the Terai
.
ii
3
5 7
Outer Himalayas in North West Provinces Hill Pedestrians Steaming up through an Avenue in the Sal Forest Girl carrying Child A Clearing in the Forest Nepalese Villagers Tibetan twirling a "Praying Wheel" "Baksheesh "1 Snows from Senchal Key to Snowy Ranges seen from Senchal Everest from Senchal
Curio-Sellers
11
14
.
.
15
17
19
21
25 26
30
31
33 42
43
Lepcha Nepalese Woman of Moormi or Tamang-Bhotiya Tribe Bhotiya Women selling Eggs
A A
Tibetan
44
.
45
46
47
Sikhimese
Matron
Nepalese Children Packing up the Baggage The Start Achoom, our chief Lepcha Servant Our "Caravan of Coolies" KiNTOop, the Tibetan Explorer "K. P." and head of our Coolies
'
49
55
60
62
64
65
xiv
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
68
71
A Monk
sipping
Murwa Beer
75
Rang-eet River "Their parasols grow by the way-side" A Lepcha Lepcha Houses A Lepcha Woman Sikhimese Chief and Retinue The Morning's Bag at Gamotang Crossing Torrents A LiMBOo Beauty DiK-CHU Cane-bridge Temple Band at Phodang Monastery The King and Queen of Sikhim Crossing Cliffs on Bamboo Ladders Log Bridge on Cantilever Principle
80 86
92
96
99
102
112 118
120
131 137
145
160
166 169
Yaks
The
172
177 181
Cascades of the Lete Himalayan Larch Downward View from the Cleft Giant wild Rhubarb View into Tibet from Tang-kar Pass Trying to boil an Altitude Thermometer Grave and Cairn of our Fellow-Traveller An Avalanche of Rocks Yoomtang and its Yaks Captain of the Tibetan Frontier Guard on his Yak Kanchen-jow and Entrance to Seboo Pass The God of Mt. Kanchen-junga Peak D" (Siniolchu) North Ridge of Kanchen-junga, showing Gap
.
. .
184
185
189
191
.
.
195
199
205
. .
207 215
217
....
.
234
235 237
Nangna Pass
Bhotanese Chief and Retinue The Marriage of the Rang-eet and Teesta Rivers A Locust (A. Succintum) Orchid and Moss-covered Oak Forest
246
.251
254
257
LISTOFILLUSTRATIONS
Tibetan Fortifications at Yatoong Tibetan Soldiers Chinese Envoy from Lhasa, and Suite
XV
Page
267
269
272
291
302 305
306
309 314
318
319
321
Rhododendron Trees
Sea of Clouds rising from the Plains Poisoned Arrows Snows from Sandook-phu Everest Group rising above the Clouds Nepalese frozen to Death in the Snow Key to the Everest Group Everest from Sandook-phu Everest and Peak XIII from the South Everest and Peak XIII from Bangura Trig. Station Nepalese Himalayas from Someshwar Range My Taxidermists at work
326
327 331 335
342
343
353
.
.355
357 362
Peak XIII from Migo Shar-pa Bhotyas Pandim from Tong-shyong-tam Glacier at Guicha Pass Kanchen-junga, South-East Face from Tong-shyong Eastern Glacier of Kanchen-junga from Tong-shyong Worship of the God of Kanchen-junga Kanchen-junga from the West Crossing Oma Pass on a Yak "The Enchanted Lake of The Peacock's Tail" Anglo-Tibetan Boundary Commissioners The Lay-Governor of Lhasa, and Suite Profile of Kabru etc., from Semo Pass Kang-La from the West North-East Face of Everest Bivouac in a Cave
.
370 373
376
378
,
395
397
....
403
411
414
416
417
420
427
XVI
MAPS
MAPS
Page
Map Map
....
.
.
32
349
437
Sketch Map of Panga Pass on Flank of Everest Himalayas of Sikhim and Adjoining Countries showing Author's Routes
.
453
431
INDEX
439
CHAPTER
Himalaya."
Gods Old
could not
tell
you of
all
the
Sa?7skii(
Poem.
HE long
of years
cherished dream
is
about to be
reaHzed
into
To-morrow we plunge
to
camp
among
their
torrents,
and to
semi-
among
their
savage Tartar
tribes.
We
are
starting
from
famous
distant
for
its
view of those
peaks
with
which
we
are
now going
the
to
make
to
closer acquaintance.
Let us then
invite
reader
accompany
us to Darjeeling to look
at
the journey,
to
see
some of the
strange
who
by the way.
to
India
Darjeeling
can now-a-days
Vividly
do
remember
my
first
How.
artificial
refreshing
it
was
to
existence
train at
We
now
could
summits of the
they belonged to
in the
another world.
grey
haze
purple
and
rosy
morning
mist,
above
in long" lines,
over
tier,
up
to the snows,
which were
"Whose head
in
And
While summer
Is sleeping
When we had
by putting
IN
we
toy-like
train
that
was
to carry
us up
open
belt
we were soon
dreaded
of fever-laden forest
the
plains
;^_
from
the
foot
of
the
hills.
Passing the
Tibet-Pekin trade-road
on our
fe>-^
right,
and crossing
"The
^"""""^^J)^
Bent-going River"
(Mahaldi,
ENTERING
"),
we steamed
through
deadly
bourers
some deserted
forest.
For
in
poisonous atmosphere
settle.
no
la-
can
be induced to
Each
fresh
batch of
flees panic-struck
and lay
their
avenging
And
it
fatal fever
when
halting to sketch
by the wayside
in return-
ing from a
visit to
Darjeeling.
Amidst
perched on
rank
tall
posts to
telling
in
lift
exhalations,
capital
an almost hopeless
waste.
Nor
itself
is
is
it
only
man who
suffers
here.
The
tea-plant
attacked
blights
and
diseases,
which
the
plantations
over-
comparatively
Still
it
free.
is
possible
as
to get acclimatized
this.
even to such an
aborigines,
unhealthy
place
The few
wild
the
live in the
depths of these
service,
forests,
undertake no hired
have acquired
as the tigers
their
home.
Sal
And
trees,
as
we steam along
standing
which look
in the clearings
the
shallows
with
of Chinese
pattern.
Further on
we passed through
Its
tangled thickets
the
still
tall
of giant grass
height,
are
the
And
with
here,
their
under the
fiery
figs
and the
crimson
blossoms,
clusters of fern
of the
plains.
snowy mountains
The
shoot up
we
above the
sea-level,
though
rise
all
the
next
feet,
miles
or so of railway
we
over 7,000
the
gradations
ranging
from tropical
to
We
as
are
in
to
this
be seen
in
world.
Not even
For
in the north-western
rise so
suddenly.
The
lo
their
less
intervenes
and owing
to the
much
of
there
drought
is
spring,
not
only
very
much
less
many
bare of trees.
This part of the Himalayas that
called
we
are
"
now
entering
is
to
mean
The Land
of Moun-
tain Crests".
It
may be viewed
as a stupendous stairway
hewn out of
glaciers
by
and great
hundred miles.
The
less
and thundering torrents of water precipitated by the excessive rainfall of this rainiest section of the Himalayas, for
it
faces the
receives the
full
force of the
heavy summer
of the rivers
a
"monsoon".
And
so
hot
climate
far
till
the semi-tropic
endless
variety
of climate
heat
of the
its
tropics
up to the bleak
snows.
Tibet and
situated
everlasting
Zoologically, Sikhim
the
Palaearctic
on
the
borderland
between
and
Oriental
regions,
and
at the junction
layan
latter region.
Thus
isty
OUTER HIMALAYAS
IN
NORTH-WEST PROVINCES.
feet.)
13
representative
enter
of
all
these.
The
and
Palaearctic
of
Tibet
east
from
the
north
oriental
the
others
from
the
and south
about
the
to
animals
ascend
no
higher
than
8,000
peculiarly
in
isolated
it
is,
side,
shut
as
run out into the plains, the so-called "Singalela" and Chola
ranges.
We
now ascend
"The Dry
Site,"
proceeding at
two-feet
by long
zig-zags
up the mountain.
The
fifteen
engine,
train
drags
the
the
to
in
fifteen
laden
that
carriages
rate
is
up
gradient
the
of about
28
at
rapid
but as
cars are
mostly open
this
trollies
is
and there
no
like
plunging
a
into
tunnels,
journey
made more
drive in
advantage.
As we advance up
with
like
which
is
clothed
ferns, pepper-vines
and ropes
the
of
thick
foliage
sunbeams
in
broken
flecks of
dancing
light.
One
of
14
trunks, crowns
them with
massive coronets of
the
trees
stiff
head-dress
of a
ten
red
Indian
chief,
have
six to
Emerging from
one thousand
feet
this
about
above the
passed
we
and then
bright
the
hills
from
grey
masses
in
of form
and
colour.
ravines,
The
twisting
curved
a
swift
carrying us through
scenery.
succession
of ever-changing
hills
We
catch
glimpses
us,
now
of the blue
we were
out to the
get
And we
HILL PEDESTRIANS.
little
Mon-
IN
THE
SAL
FOREST.
17
people of these
forest
hills,
sturdily
winding
path,
some
of the
women
GIRT.
CARRYING A CHILD.
over their back, and the
similarly
children in
basket slung
in
all
men
with
their
;
loads
baskets
strapped
the
over their
with
foreheads
and
occasionally waking
echoes
i8
snatches of
The
refrain
Travelling with a pretty maid The road seems very short and charming, And so seems life with a lovely wife.
rank growth
of gingers,
shrubs,
its
calladium
and other
wild confusion
ing
leaves,
matted
with
thorny
tall
twiners
trees
and
bamboo
in
thicket,
through
which
the
struggle
the
choking
aloft
while
others
shoot
Hke
masts,
tied
down by
countless
climbers
impenetrable.
forest
began rapidly
to
change
its
forest in
thinned
Birds
and
the
smiUng.
and gaudy
butterflies
and other
insect-Hfe
velvety
Begonias,
tall
hot-house plants
at
home.
the
startled deer or
wild
plantains
waved
a giant mop.
few
rg
zone above.
little
The
greatest
like a
It
straggler
weed,
blue-flowered
groundsel
(Ageratmn conyzoides).
had
recently
A CLEARING
IN
THE FOREST.
is
extensively grown
hill
But up
all
it
is
rapidly
overrunning the
fast
sides,
everywhere
the
fresh
is
and
displacing the
clearings;
it.
native
weeds on
landslips
and
even the
hardy worm-wood
disappearing before
down
the
hill
in these
20
fragrant
of the
we passed
several huts
Irish shanties,
the
dress
of the
women and
children
make a
pleasing
Our
when changing
to
horses, for
some
or
minutes
now and
**
then,
pick
silver" ferns,
cliffs
of gneiss with
And we
who
The
fresh
faces
and robust
these
hills,
and who are now hurrying to the cool There are a few
in
to restore
soldiers proceeding to
detachments
some Afghans
like
"
Seeks
"),
but
whom
the
(Tommy
Then
and "Sykesl"
peasantry,
hill
the
women
men
There are a
OUR FELLOW-PASSENGERS
few boisterous
21
to
visit
these
pax
Britannica.
ulsters
They
European
and
their warlike
as they
clutch a
Birmingham umbrella
are
in their
"National"
grasp.
flock
And
there
NEPALESE VILLAGERS.
are
to
irreverently
called,
on
their
way
to Darjeeling to try
advantage
who
months,
when
22
The chance
by one of them
to a
mutual friend
is
at
home makes
The
us realize
how
after all.
About 2,000
buti (or
we passed
"),
in the cuttings at
Choona-
"The
ore,
Kime-kiln
of iron
the
dipping
down
at
contorted
the
which threw up
for mining.
Himalayas that
not
profitable
up into
stratified
gneiss,
wavy
this
folds
Much
of the soil of
is
part
most
stiff
we
got a
region above
lower
hills
and
way
streaks of silver
edge
at times.
To
which
threatened
device
disaster,
engineering
of
spirals,
TIBETAN PORTERS
torrents
is
23
so called
from
its
it
being subject
swells
during
which
up suddenly
hill
side
down
the
valley.
In
The
steep
clearings
get
larger
less
slopes
are
its
which with
The white
villas
vil-
become more
frequent.
At one of
busiest of these
the
sea-level,
where we stopped
few minutes,
the
we
notice
many
divers
They
acting
as
porters
big,
grimy,
deep-chested
men and
in
pigtails,
greasy
Now we
tation
are
in
fresh
temperate
climate.
The
vegethe
has
completely
changed,
and
we
recognise
of which
stag-moss, and
many
other
common
trees,
of temperate Europe.
and grassy
24
tall
which
lift
their graceful
heads
or "
The
Bears'
Den ",
sug-
of the
we passed above
mountain side
far
beneath
us.
And
the prevailing
dampness
showed
covered grottoes.
In this
chilly
its
grow
foliage loses
warm
olive tints
and gets
oaks,
ilex
tufts
of stringy
shapes, and
lichens
fantastic
this
rapid
my
the
Now
by
relief
effects of this
rapid ascent
instant
is
by
of a
feehng of tension
in
in the temples.
This
siology
the
such elevations.
The
"
air in
the inner
drum
and so causes a
volume of
air is ultimately
into
by anatomists
restored.
ascending,
ere
we
feet.
PRAYING-WHEELS
at
25
Ghoom, on
Hill ",
"The
Burned
which a
its
timber,
don our
wraps.
It
is
indeed delicious to
is
again
This
village of
Ghoom
the
first
shod
in
in the Lotus-
the
26
built of
to
ward
off devils.
And
bamboos
wafting
demons who
infest
BAKSHEESH
the
air
hillsides
in
the
neighbourhood.
for baksheesh,
Among
is
many beggars
here
who clamour
ARRIVAL AT DARJEELING
old
27
witch of
Ghoom".
and her
She
is
dirtier
her fellows,
polish,
coat,
worn
into tatters
herself.
and a greasy
Tibetans are
Few
constantly the same suit day and night for months without
till
it
is
always a zoological
it
is
no un-
common
seated
as
in India,
both
Leaving
Ghoom we
glide
down
now
and
after
engine
home and
When we
eager porters,
fight
over
it,
we
are
free in
to
Darjeeling
stands,
not
a valley
ordinary
Alpine
towns,
morning are
now
to
be seen, so
late in the
afternoon.
They
are
28
the
away
down
But the
traveller.,
on
his arrival
and
it
in
inhabitants.
And how
about
sudden
all
has
been!
We
European climate
is
in
hours
not physically a
part
of India
nese
the
hats
and
dress,
freedom
of
the
women whose
veil,
bright
and
happy
the
faces,
hidden by no jealous
recall in
many ways
manly independent
bearing
after
of these
boisterous
good-humoured mountaineers
plains-
the
people.
are
here,
as servants
and followers
are
strangely
surroundings.
It
is
also
pleasant to
to
be once more
its
in the
midst of a
the
real
spring,
breath
freshness,
and
feast
eye,
fatigued
plains,
on
that
its
and
contrast
29
her
memories of home.
following
Such were
Tibetan
my
impressions
whilst
my
sturdy
porters
villa-like
where
fire,
found awaiting
me
I
its
blazing
a comfort to which
To
was up next
to Senchal, a
peak about
manding a
weather permitting.
And
was soon
in the
away
in the yet
height, a rosy
peak flashed
forth for
in
reflected
from peak to
peak, streamed
a
down
them
in
faded quickly
away
grey,
and
left
the
peaks.
Then, as
glinting
the
long low
beams
in
quick succession
on the lower peaks, these dim blue crests and crags leaped
forward tipped with ruddy gold and splashed with
as the sun rose higher
fire,
which,
in the dis-
tance
sky.
into
amber and
full
against a
turquoise
In the
snows
lost
most of
3
their
mighty
C?
"^ "?
33
its
(or "
Kinchinjinga
in the
")
with
13,000
background.
From
and 24,015
(28,150
ft.),
ft.
respectively)
far
and thence
away
to the silvery
cone of the
^^^1'-
Mount Everest
29002 ft
ft),
and sinks
right.
It
in the eastern
I
was sublime
"Northwards soared
The stainless ramps of huge Himala's wall Ranged in white ranks against the blue untrod,
wonderful whose uplands vast, universe of crest and crag, Shoulder and shelf, green slope and icy horn, Riven ravine, and splintered precipice Led climbing thought higher and higher, until It seemed to stand in heaven and speak with God. Beneath the snows, dark forests spread, sharp laced With leaping cataracts and veiled with clouds Lower grew rose-oaks and the great fir groves Where echoed pheasants' call and panthers' cry, Clatter of wild sheep on the stones and scream Of circling eagles: under these, the plain
Infinite,
And
lifted
Gleamed
Of
34
beyond
that of
any other
eye as
it
of
the
silvery
feet,
Rang-eet
river,
7,000
feet
beneath our
rise,
tier
over
tier,
carrying
the
above the
we
As
if
we were
to imagine
Mont Blanc
shore,
rearing
its
full
bearing
in
on
its
summit Ben
the
highest
mountain
that,
two Snow-
dons, one on the top of the other, and were able with one
glance to take in
all
The
ized
may be
real-
None
So enormous, indeed,
the
it
is
this
great
projecting mass of
but that
it
feet
up
its
sides.
*^
Yet
this
fact
is
so
little
generally
tell
35
to
been actually
that
from
Senchal,
height
peculiar
from
which
they
viewed
together
with
the
tend
to
dwarf
their
and
vertical directions. It
to reahse that
crow
flies,
our foreground.
grow upon
us,
till
we begin
it
to gain
some sense
of
its
holds us spell-bound.
only
defect
is
the
cliffs
the
outer
ranges.
we
to the snows.
I
at
my
this
It
was
mountains,
and
to carry
my
field-glasses
and
camera.
was
sitting
2^6
view, feasting
ranges,
of which
made
mountain
mountain
side,
change
in colours
and
light
drifting
it
lightly
over
all.
He
eyes as he
1
gazed again
view: "It
is
a horrid country
It is
so
grow
at
all,
even milk,
is
so dear that
it
And
us when-
chance.
me
back
to India
soon!"
Bengal.
On
my
out to
the
their
me some
And
natives
of the
often
show great
in the
taste in planting
most picturesque
positions possible.
we
find in these
mountains
us, as
an object-lesson
in a
in land-sculpture.
by the eroding
forces of rain
and
37
frost,
which
the
mountains
are
composed.
Thus the
straight
and granite and massive gneiss which form the axis of the
Himalayas, and which
grating forces.
disinte-
The
is
irregularly
owing
constituent gneiss
unequally.
the lower
And
hills
silt
and
debris
and the
relative
of denuded rocks,
soft shales
and
schists.
The whole
surface,
too,
exhibits, in the
most impres-
way
Here, too,
we
see
how
upland
tracks,
rills
threadlike
grow
into
hills.
Thus
mighty
of
the
we
see
the
drainage-lines
tree.
take
the
form
of a
many-branched
This
tree-like
ramification
38
water-channels, the
aboriginal
itself
on
our
name
the
spur
of
Darjeeling,
is
in
foreground.
"
The
Fallen-
prostrate tree;
the trunk
is
the
ridge extending to Darjeeling; and the two main branches are the spurs of Birch Hill and Lebong, from which extend the
the branchlets.
And
to
the
we
find
how Man
transform
this
It is
scenery,
has
been
this
change
these cultivated
clearings
on the
and
villages
through which
tea-
we have
gardens,
passed,
the
their
white
villas
comfortable-looking
stir
of hfe, have
all
Yet sb
it
is.
In
1835
when
the Darjeeling
hills
were
ceded by the Sikhimese King to the English, as a sanitarium for our troops, the whole stretch of these mountains
virgin forest,
while
now this
ter of a million, of
whom some
FOUNDING OF DARJEELING
39
which
is
steadily increasing.
in
commer-
mushroom
He had
'
been our
political
the
Nepalese to
the
settle
in
their
thousands, and he
introduced
which has
now become
so enormous an industry.
But our reveries are cut short by the rising clouds, which
gather over us into a drenching mist that drives us
the
hill.
down
of the ruined
sanitarium
rains
ago as a
for our
injured
the
and
spirits
several to
commit
had
find
to
be abandoned.
Now
name
full
it
is
curious
this
regard to
of this
force
Bay of Bengal,
and which
"The
Damp
is
possible
On
the
way down
to Darjeeling
we saw some
natives.
40
One
local
is
confined
so
fetches about a
pound
sterling.
The
is
exciting,
flea,
it,
it is
not there."
We
passed a
Darjeeling
is
terribly respectable.
They were
travelling in
"dandies", a
common mode
who do not
fixed
to
ride.
The dandy
is
a pole (which
called
this
India,
and
pole
is
carried on the
Tibetan
are,
though slow.
But they
is
rather
is
said
to
in Tibet,
to
mountain
Back again
at Darjeeling, as the
ways of society
in
the
'
will
with
the
late
hours
and
feverish
DARJEELING
participation
in
TOWN
me
4t
the social
life
The town
esque,
itself
owing
to
fewness
of trees
destruction
greatest
of the
magnificent forest
these
its
glory.
Of
moss-covered
monarchs there
in
remain
now
the
general bareness.
At Beechwood
planted
and rhododendrons
forty
by
Joseph
Hpxaker
over
years
ago.
The
Cryptomerias
is
which
have
been
box of
bazaar,
in
toys.
Conspicuous, too,
inevitable
in the
long lines
of the
are
the
announcing
invasion
enterprise
of yet another
by modern
and invention.
of the
Many
walks
are
very
pleasant
and
resemble
who
far
On
these, however,
buy
all
will insist
on spreading out
plaids,
daggers
42
human
bones, and
"
genuine
" antiquities
made
specially for
The
bazaar
or
market,
though
not
beautiful
in
its
CURIO SELLERS.
buildings,
is
and
varied groups
For
it
is
too
much
all
the
fashion
of the
mere
fact
of
their
being
"natives",
on
the
same
PICTURESQUE NATIVES
low platform
discrimination
as
43
the
Indian
plains-people.
little
more
much
despised
They
are
not
Indian
are
at
all,
but
to
despite
their
want of
civilization,
some
found
generous
instincts
than
many
of those
who
despise them.
A TIBETAN.
On Sunday
many
their
hillsides,
for
miles
their thousands to
all
do
week's marketing,
decked
in
their
finery.
The
women and
all
44
and
jewellery,
their fortunes
on their necks.
They
and
have
brought some
forest-produce,
such
as
yams,
butterflies, to
A LEPCHA.
the
market to barter
for salt
and other
articles.
They
are
now
swamped by
chattering Nepalese,
to settle in the
who have
DarjeeHng
in
enormous numbers
or
as
as
peasantry
here.
tea-gardens
The
bright-eyed Nepalese
attire,
women,
gaily
45
many
of them
toilet
in
complete their
Some
of the
piquant faces
their
be
almost pretty
were
46
Sher-pa''
Bhotiyas.
Most picturesque of
all
are the
and
their
scarves
red
and
blue,
especially those
awkward
false
mod-
are
massive
amulets
breastplates,
of
gold
their
and
silver
filigree
work
set
with
turquoises
and
The
richer
as
women wear
chaplets
of large
coral
beads,
costing
47
ten
to
twenty pounds a
girdles, various
set,
silver
among
Lamas,
with
sugar-loaf-shaped
scarlet
left
SIKHIMESE MATRON.
in the right,
and solemnly
mumbling
their spells
but
who
beer, with as
little
Burmese
Above
the general
hum
in
48
the
in
woman
i
Sa - laam Sahib bak-sheesh do
-
o
noisiest of all are the strident Indians
serwho
sly
have come
in their
whom
are
many
who scheme
The wares
bazaar
itself
are exposed
as
in
the
well
as
leading to
it;
and the
sellers sit
on green
silks,
oil,
and Huntley
&
Palmer's
biscuits.
But
far
more
figures
The
struggling, surging
crowd amidst
fair
supplies endless
The
eager, expectant,
or
to
happy
olive
the
women and
full
Lepcha
short-kilted skirt
49
Nepalese,
with
girdles
delicate tints of
tishly
many
head,
over the
faded
by the sun
to
tender
NEPALESE CHILDREN.
tones
make
quite
a study of colour.
Beyond
little
cemetery,
4
is
5o
the
who
The Hungarians
or
Magyars
the descendants
of the
Asia,
who
burst
over
century A.D.
student,
set
his
only his
stick,
and
begged
suffering
way
endless
a
hardships.
In
he
had found
language
cognate
with
his
own;
and
after
many
pubHshed
his great
Af-
this
tomb
to his
memory.
Soon
after
my
arrival
at
Darjeeling
made
the usual
vatory
ling", valley
hill,
^'
Dorje-
derives
name; down
to
and
up
to
the
peaks of
are easily
all
of which
points
good
on the
be made with
trouble
or expense.
Upper
we
are
now
51
to
be thought
that there
Not
much danger
by man,
or, like
Hooker,
seized
and imprisoned,
Though,
we
whom we had
the
residents
just
had a
little
pickets
round
the
and
streets.
The
reasons
why
travel in Sikhim
demands
costly
and
ing
is
to
be obtained locally
British territory
and
no
shelter,
in the
dipping in
and out of
For Sikhim so
is
The few
natives
you
chance to meet
grain
is
ever cultivated
for their
visitors.
own
52
where sheep
may be
obtained.
And
on.
much depended
which
is
the
badness
of the
tracks
compels everything to be
few short distances can
it
only
for a
and
army of
for
your
movements,
fellows
though a splendid
set of strong
and
willing, eat
up
and so
make
it
difficult for
you
To
advance some
bags of
for
considerable distances
and
there
is
woman
many
miles
up the mountain,
about fourteen
mountains,
with
still
no coolie can go
at a
decent pace,
miles
heavier
load
than
inclusive of his
And
more
lightly
your coolie
coolies
is
number of
you have, the more quickly you get over the ground
less discomfort.
So
try as
you
will to
reduce
53
any case
coolie, the
sufficient
Lepchas
and
Sikhimese
Bhotiyas,
in
numbers to go
to outlandish places.
all
this
porterage
in these
is
indeed
mountains.
DarjeeHng
is
notoriously
expensive
place
even
for
a
all
porterage.
Even the
his
The
recognised
just
each cooHe
in
and
all
its
the nearest of
to
railway
the
do
stations.
Such
ficti-
settle in
it
Now, however,
settled, surely
this
has
Government might
so,
do something to remove
the
anomaly; especially
as
standard of comfort
among
very high,
the
and
is
so
much
the
Himalayas,
that
women and
here are
literally
loaded with
necklets
of rupees,
barbaric
massive
golden jewellery
of
size,
54
expensive
and broadcloths.
of
all
Moreover,
the
persons
to benefit
by these
easily earned
peans,
are
who keep up
the prices,
the
is
Another
profes-
are
climbers themselves.
tracks,
useful
dron, which
in the
much
;
Eastern Alps
but these
men
are of
little
or no use
to the
cHmber who
is
bound
peaks.
if
He must
trust
his
compass,
did Mr.
W. Graham, who
some
is
one who
climber
The
also find
and expense
of the
hill
Major
is
Michell's
paper,
'"
though the
cost
I
journey
at
first
much
underestimated there.
I
As
to
do any ice-climbing,
a
was fortunate
is
as
guide,
native
of
a noted ex-
we
shall presently
make
headman of our
coolies.
The season
also
must be considered.
The
late
autumn
57
travelling in these
to
the
September,
heavy rain
falls
almost
leeches and
levels
many
and
the
insect pests
make
difficult
disagreeable.
May
the
month of
avalanches.
course,
In
closed
game
down
ber,
into
more
the
and
many
and
flowers
still
carpet
the
uplands.
this
Snow
month
In
begins to
as well as
November has
March and
April,
closed,
from 9,000 up
explore the
13,000
feet,
To
discomforts
of the
late
summer
rains
and
butter, as well as
yaks
and sheep
for
meat,
obtained up to about
I4;000 to 15,000 feet; and the yaks can carry your heavy
for
long
for themselves.
Settled
Restricted
these
many
58
that
we
start
is
in
the
rainy season
month
earlier
would
we
could have
managed
its
it),
and
chief head-
the
La-chen,
river
northwards to
the
to penetrate
glaciers of
set foot.
And we
have settled
all
the knotty
to the instruments
we
etc.
And now, on
satisfaction
we survey
with
the
we have
put to
our plans, the crowd of our coolies outside, and their head-
man and
loads
into
edibles,
thrill
of pleasant half-anxious
CHAPTER
II
SIKIIIM
To breathe the air of Sikhim free, To wander by her purling rills, And seek the beauty of her hills, The blueness of her sky.
C. Macaulay's
Lay of Lachen.
^'
as
we
hand,
and followed by a small string of personal servants carrying our guns, field-glasses, maps, survey and photographic
apparatus, collector's paraphernalia, and last but not least,
that luxury of eastern travel
the
lunch-basket, which
hills.
it
is
never wise to
party
all told,
let far
Our
numbered
fifty-three
persons, of
whom
62
and Chinese
hats, shoulders
Roman
belt.
warrior's,
suspended
in
Of
these.
Achoom, who
is
officer,
one.
He
faithful
and hardworking
interests,
as
a slave
in
devotion
to
his
master's
and
of
full
many
makeshifts
camp
There
is
scarcely anything
65
deft
fingers
cannot do,
dish, to carving a
bamboo
flute
and decorating
it
by poker-
work, or shooting
for
like
game and
my
all
collection,
true
Lepchas,
He
is
in build,
MongoHan
face,
pleasing smile,
office,
he
is
on
his head,
when
his face
his
is
responsible
ordinarily
position.
His sword,
hanging by
his
side,
camp
fire,
though
it
is
whom
he follows
dangerous places
like
a shadow.
We
has,
And
one of us
as
my
old
Our
They
contain represent-
atives of
tribes to
be found at Darjee-
ling
Many
of
good-natured
women who
variety
so
is
carry
of their costumes
and colours
is
They
on
Lepcha baskets
64
with
tied
on to a
wooden
strapped
like
framework
which
is
knapsack;
these
and
they
support
loads
by
broad
that
is
band
of plaited
cane
head
and
fixes
the
package
And
the
in their
hand each
carries a hollow
stem of bamboo,
length
when
"K.
P."
65
it
Quite a hero
in his
way
is
Kintoop, or "
The Almighty
K.P.
HEAD OF OUR
COOLIES.
One", our
coolies.
He
who
did
many deeds
Tibet.
With an
iron
66
constitution
all
the
sturdy
courage
his
found an
he was
still
many
of the
as
then
unknown
to
and Nepal,
assistant
the
trained
to
half-breed
map
rough
who
namely,
is
as to whether
continuous or
This problem
had baffled
all
Tibetans themselves
it
turns
and enters a
man's
land,
peopled
all
by
fierce
savage
tribes
who have
successfully resisted
indeed they
all
kill
How
far
Kintoop,
into
this
alone
and
carrying
unarmed,
his
life
forced
in his
;
his
way
country,
ing
from
hunger
and
cold
how he was
sold as a slave,
a fugitive,
faithful
he struggled painfully on
to
down
the
Lower Tsang-po,
his
mission,
plains,
till
Assam
further
progress was
KINTOOP, OUR
67
and
how
this
through
no
fault
of
his,
Assam, owing
caught
to the death
Harman from
;
frost-bite
among
the snows
of Kanchen-junga
failure
to
direct
and
establish
the
connection
between
Lower
any
Tsang-po
previous
for
nearly
;
hundred
details
miles
lower
than
explorer
all
the
of these
achievements
have been
repeatedly
related
to
me by
Kintoop himself,
Survey
thick-set
active
man
of
medium
height
and middle
age,
with
weather-beaten
eyes
sparkle
though as he
dark
is
no darker
Italian.
hairless save
lip.
one
or
two stragghng
is
bristles
on
his
upper
And
altogether he
His deep-chested
from a
hill-top
He
has
the
alertness
68
of a lion he
sort of
a host in himself.
Indeed he
is
quite the
man you
Our
first
day's
river, that
here divides
Badamtam, where
there
is
Scarcely had
the Mall,
when
A NEPALESE FAIR
we overtook our
previously.
coolies,
69
tear
themselves
winding path
in single
like
Chor-ten of Dortsook
with
its
rows
we meet crowds
of
below,
and on
arrival there
we
find
en fete, on account
The
latter are
as Hindoos,
and have
which,
in
honour of
Lakshtni)
is
really
one of Nature's
feasts,
And
fair
it
is
gala day of
all
the year.
was
singing,
played
of the
pipes
which
the
bag-pipes
70
deeply
themselves,
but
freely
;
treat
all
their
friends,
ir-
respective of caste
and creed
a rarity
so that a sober
"
man
at such
will
time
is
quite
among them.
And
the
of
we
We
anxious
join
lest
the
dissipation,
especially
most of them
belonged to
that
several
all,
very village.
We
noticed with
tipsy,
some alarm
worst of
suspicion.
all,
for
human
only
men and
his
weakness was
that
fondness
for
wine; though
must say
hand.
And
here
certainly
for our
men
Nepalese
For we saw
several
of the
latter,
some of our
and forcing
coolies
who chanced
to
at a standstill, as
their loads
by the
I
the
general
merry-making.
had therefore
collect his
to
tackle
men and
them through
this
village
without delay.
And we
NEPALESE SWING AT A
FAIR,
73
who were
carrying
we
elevation,
and
fire
have shorn
it
of
its
Whole
forests
evidence
sacrifice
this
slips,
of the
to
advancing
One
of the results of
wholesale
removal of forest
soft
slid
In
had
cannot run
in the
it
strictly applicable to
property
Himalayas.
the end of this spur
Its
is
At
the
little
Lamaist monastery
of Ging.
altar
is
covered with
worshipped as
ments.
Its
fetishes,
imple-
walls
are
with
atrocious
daubs, re-
presenting
many
devils, deities
is
and
The
place,
however,
paintings
temples of Sikhim.
represented
The guardian
of this place
tigerish
is
monster,
74
a destruc;
demon who
is
sacrifices
and
we saw
his shrine
kids, fowls,
with
whom
truth
taking
this
of Hfe
is
absolutely
is
The
that
bloody
sacrifice
The people
;
God
is
good
spirit
but the
So God
is
neglected,
and the
Still
devils are
worshipped instead.
we
enter
mile
feet
in
we reach
above the
staging-house
It is
of Badamtam, at 2,500
commands
feet
above
us,
us,
2,000 feet
below
rushing waters.
we were not
sorry to find
which we did
jugful
full
justice.
bamboo
of the
refreshing
that
'"
the
Lepchas
brew from a
grain
giant
is
Murwa.
The fermented
bamboo, and
jug
is
then
filled
75
imbibed by sipping
it
up through a thin
straw.
It
tastes
like
weak whiskey-toddy
and
it
or
acidity,
is
milder than
76
the
English
beer.
It
is
and
a food as
much
sip
as a drink.
it
children
night.
delight to
at
all
And
they sing
its
of Sarrie
in the
(Tsari),
:
also used as
an
arrow
chase
O! sipping reed of
Sarrie!
Thou 'rt born to make us merry. Thy stent instils the luscious wine. The drink of gods, nectar divine. Thy shaft is shaped an arrow fine,
That's
fit
bow.
O
Even the
that
priests or
it
Lamas
they sip
in their temples,
travel far
Indeed one
to see a
monk
dogma
that
"all
life
misery,"
full
for
he then
is
able to
were dropping
in
in,
in
afternoon
sauntering
through
magnificent
forest,
and sounds
the
flashing of a
on the fern-covered
77
down
the
crested
tree,
the ringing
crash
deer
are
echoing
up
here,
the
valley.
I
common
this
and
yards of
the
Indian
bear,
Himalayan (Ursus
Tibetamis).
You must
also
be
more lowly
fatal for
the serpent.
in
It
was an enormous
and of the pale
in
measuring
56
inches
length,
expanded hood
a menacing
It
was the
Malayan
on
its
neck, and
It
somewhat
reassuring, however, to
know
that poisonous
this,
though
ft.)
at Darjeeling, of
78
of the forest.
He knows
thing;
in
He
is,
is
steeped
so
full
braver than
he
or
of resource and
self-reliant
when
dangers
in the forest.
its
nature wins
way
into
his unruffled
temper under
his
It
difficulties
who
is
in
company.
was
interesting
to
some
tiny
brilliantly
the
in
humming-birds of America.
the
thick
When
birds,
were
twittering
in
And
they
when
draw them
when
it
is
seized
by a hawk
or other bird
to see
away
again.
THE LEPCHA
IN HIS
FORESTS
79
enormously high
tree,
your
and
fearlessly fetches
them
to
And
you
all
about their
differ
Altogether the
Lepcha
panion
in
cares
nor animals
except
Lamps
those that he
As
of the
the
darkness closed in
we watched
illuminations
of the Feast of
us,
all
and the
over the
thousands
hillsides.
of
We
after
an early dinner,
because
with
many
misgivings for
the
morrow,
of his remaining
men had
to say that he
was delayed
in getting
sober por-
the
we
But we decided
of us, and
it
wait
off
in
front
on
coolies, as
no sober
men were
to be found, but.
road was practicable for ponies for two more days' march.
So
off
we
started again,
and our
coolies, looking
ashamed
now
8o
of their
their
misconduct by extra
We
eet,
which we had to
Below
us,
RANG-EET RIVER.
clouds
filled
the
mountain
ridges,
range
upon range, up
to
the dazzling
peak of Kanchen-junga.
8i
tain
sides
silvery
strands
Rangnoo by a wooden
bridge, brought us
noisily
between
steep
This river
is
we had
but the
so
seldom
they
in
demand,
were
nowhere
to
be found,
although
had
So a
them
in their fields,
Tied to
its
to
the
devils
of the river.
58 Fah., as
it
The water
itself
was
glaciers,
sea-level,
at
Some good
Mahaseer.
We
huge
82
Bis-Cobra
is
erroneously believed
to
be poisonous.
and
a hap-hazard
way
rivers,
as few of
quite content
with
his
who make
I
and when
point,
have
of these
leave
on
for
this
Why
should
we
them
other
men
Geologically,
slates
again
amongst the
'^
which we
descended,
encountered
the
it
As we
gneiss
became
many
of the boulders
also
in
the river
some thousands of
Our
crossing-place
is
at a relatively
in a series
miles
above
this
as
is
only 987
In
feet.
crossing,
we
nearly
came
to
grief.
only a floating
and axe.
an oar a
It
no rudder, and
for
bit
wood
its
tied to a pole.
When we
had
wedged
had
ourselves into
in
crammed
themselves
and
it
83
craft
out with
it
and hurled
it
swiftly
down
the stream.
Then
the ferrymen
wildly plied their poles, and the canoe shot obhquely across
the
current,
to
the
opposite
bank,
a point
far
started. It
latter,
rope cable and hauled across, partly swimming, at considerable risk to their lives from the swift current and the great
boulders in
its
bed.
As
it,
in this
rough
transit,
I
was
my box
or
of
orders to preserve
it
carefully from
damp
falls;
for
in this climate,
fragile glass
it,
weighty and
One
it
of the
men
dropped
was
and fortunately,
worse
well-soldered contents
were
little
the
On
is
the river
bank
at the
bottom of
this
malarial gorge
suffer terribly
who
I
from
They asked
for
medicine and
them
84
We
were now
in
The rugged
for a
road
cardamoms, growing
tall
and through
this
gingers.
was a
feet,
hot climb
up out of
gorge
for
about 2,000
us.
down on
The
noontide
toil-
Scarce a sound
is
to
bird, or squirrel; or
its
sometimes
it
startled
from
siesta
by our
footsteps,
your path
the
among
foliage.
that as
you
by the sound of
a falling
leaf.
Higher
up,
past
the
cedar-like
timber-trees,
"Toon"
to
we came
Cheer pines
the
in
{Pinus
longifolia),
so
in
common
at the foot of
Northern
a
Himalayas, but
damp Sikhim
like
only found
this.
On
"The
gaining the
we emerged on
feet),
to the
or
Its well-cul-
many
miles to
Namchi on the
intended to
of
was
late in the
IN
NATIVE SIKHIM
it
85
seemed
be
of 3,000
rious,
in
an orange-grove
headman
bamboo
crowd of admiring
natives.
We
among
stilts
dot the
hillside,
perched on
and orange
trees,
now
fruit.
And
we watched many
weaving
their
which they
was
by a
plucked
I
experienced, as usual,
much
difficulty in
photographing
They
exhibited a lively
horror
of the
lens, or
"the
at
evil
eye
for
box"
as
they
it
called
it,
was pointed
them;
them
his
in
photograph
spells
And
similarly a
photograph of the
86
THEIR PARASOLS
GROW BY THE
WAYSIDE.
overcame
their scruples.
An
old
present
however,
may
be
embarrassing
at
87
Sikhim;
for
it
is
common way
of proposing
marriage,
A circumDar-
story
is
told
of the
as to
sister
or
king
of Sikhim,
for
how when
jeeling
the
first
time,
only
made
wife,
understand with
difificulty
that he already
had a
another.
As
the
daylight faded,
we
returned
to
after dinner,
we
sat outside
camp
long
bamboo
pitchers
some men
lolling
lazily
or
stretched
My
love
is
pure
silver
mirror
heart.
Beyond
Like a tree of costly coral, like a leaf gemmed with turquoise, Like a fruit of precious pearls, you, my love, are rare. You are the loveliest of lovely flowers, and where'er you go I as a turquoise butterfly will follow my flower.
in
are inveterate
gamblers.
Some were
some
pompous supernatural
low down as
their
as
88
boots;
had aheady
rain
and
in
these
rude arbors
many were
empty
baskets.
To
us,
is
our
leeward,
so
that
the
Achoom
is
at
we
are in these
lower valleys, by
to
my
Indian cook,
life,
also a tried
camp
having
been with
me
87,
life
up
has
the
sleek
comfortable cook
of towns.
are
Indeed
his sharp
and almost
cadaverous features
so
suggestive
of the
mummy
of
name
is
Ram.
Rameses may be
in a
call
up something savoury
ever and
wherever we
But what
up by the
lurid glare
more
like a
magician
for
orders
for
the
morrow's
TENT LIFE
march.
IN SIKHIM
89
And
after
dismissing
him we
camp
ceased,
cooking
fires
fire-flies,
tiger-
suggested that
it
was time
our tents.
CHAPTER
III
CAPITAL
Vale of Teesta fair. By Silling's slopes and Yeung's Mendong And Kubbi's smiling pastures rare
steep
Tendong
breast
crest
C. Macaulay's
Lay of Lachen.
The
rustle
of the
early
crackling
of the freshly-Ht
outside,
camp
awoke
fires,
and the
stir
of our
waking servants
the
first
of our
We
in a
few
cobwebs of
coolies
the
To
get the
men
started off
the
chill
of the
much
trouble
PLEASURES OF MOUNTAINEERING
for
91
before starting.
Nor was
it
men
and the
make up a bulky-looking
wraps of himself
containing
his
little
and
It
comrades.
real
was a
air
pleasure
keen
cool
to
get
warm
and
to
stop
here
and there by
the
we
like pearls
from
And we
As we ascended
the
river
far
this
beneath
us,
Achoom
was hailed
as
we
met.
He
is
Lepcha
in
service at Darjeeling
his fathers,
who
has
the
"
among
faithful
only
he
".
One amiable
old
man, who
We
especially
these
are
Lepchas,
who
are
the
aborigines of
for their
the
country,
many charming
the
state
traits,
of primitive
man when
he subsisted by hunting,
92
fishing,
they
now
tide of emigrants
who have
lately
swept
in great
waves
A LEPCHA.
These
following
as are
"Lepchas",
the
call
as
they
are
called
by Europeans,
Nepalese
name
of
the
is
tribe;'"
"Rong",
name;
that
is
they
their proper
known
to the Tibetans as
Mon-ba or Mon-rik,
I
THE LEPCHAS
"people of the
for the
93
Mon
country"
general
Tibetan name
to
down
Assam and
Burma.
hills
the sole
inhabitants of these
until
country
to
and
usurped
all
the
government,
and appropriated
hills,
themselves
driving
the
Lepchas
down
still
seek
new homes
in
these
lower
valleys
settlers
and the
and
their
generally
known
is
to
Bhotiya,'" that
"an
we
",
race
of Sikhim,
Sikhimese Bhotiyas
to distinguish
them
of Nepal
and Bhotan,
all
of
whom
differ
considerably.
side
Now
for a
that
by
side with
these other tribes, you could never mistake him, not even
Sikhimese Bhotiya, of
whom many
possess a consideris
able strain of
he distinguished
from
all
these
in
and manners,
He
moral,
is,
indeed,
distinctive
traits,
physical and
very
in
much what
Living
a profusion of wild fruits and edible roots and other jungle products, the
Lepcha
is
naturally indolent
and easy-going.
His
close
companionship
a
;
with
nature
has
made him
naturalist,
tender
lover
his
philosopher
though
94
in the peaceful
His hard
which wreck
his
home and
and death around him, has made him a worshipper of malignant devils, and intensely superstitious. His exposed bivouacking at night in malarial gorges, has sapped
much
of his vigour
love liberty
life
has
made him
and hate
restraint, leading
him
to
com-
mon
foe.
And
this
unwarhke
left little
when he
But, as
is
tribes.
we have
and generous to a
is
and no
in facing
danger
in the forest.
We
home
follow,
in
then,
this
genial old
Lepcha
to his hutlike
hair parted
down
who
the
And
harsh tones
is
clad
a long
plaid of blue
and
wound round
his
THE LEPCHAS
95
arm
free.
is
His waist
is
girdled
by a red
or blue
suspended
Roman
to
it
to the
Goorkha.
With
jungle, builds his hut, skins the animal he shoots with his
"
it is
his
sword
in battle, his
his gimlet,
(his
ham-
mer and
razor.
women-
is
added, on ceremoit
occasions,
as
in the
page 102,
is
usually
of cane-work
and
like
tribes of
Assam,
in front.
Around
his
the leg from the ankle to the knee. His feet are bare
and
when he
Nagas and
and
in his
east,
hand
his
bow and
almost idyllic in
its
simplicity.
It
is
small plot
and beyond
this a
little
and a
96
AMONG
THP:
HIMALAYAS
dignified
if it
may be
by such a term,
is
usually
a mere scratching
done
men do
of the
the hunting.
The
is
house,
log framework,
floor,
built
The
the walls,
vessels
and cook-
ing utensils.
On
the ground
in
floor,
the
angular
space
LEPCHA HOUSES.
the
side
between
hill-
sloping
housed the
pigs, fowls
live stock
and
squeahng
pigs
for the
Lepchas
one of the
family,
very
much
like the
LEPCHA HOUSES
97
We
for
ascend the
stair,
notched
log of
to the landing,
And we have
inside,
humbly
to
the
low door.
Once
as
am
putting
down
my
my
it
else-
house
is
at
present
occupying that
spot,
and
his Satanic
Majesty's
fearful
placed
on that tabooed
will
When we
are
subdued
as
its
light
is
which,
it
there
no chimney, half
the
room before
finds
slow
tanning these
interior
reflects
we
then
simple
mode
of living of
inmates,
their few
satisfied.
There
and
and
their cattle
At one end
is
an
open
it
fireplace
are a few
bamboo
and leaves
for plates;
above
it
hangs a frame
for
smoking
filled
that the
this
room
is
constantly
more or
There
less with
is
smoke,
also a primi7
gS
tive
and no beds,
for
the
is
At
of
Murwa
millet
and yeast
for
brewing beer;
forest produce.
For
dig
up
in the forest,
supple-
mented by
occasional
is
leaves, with
There
which
them
to chew, from
Salt
is
the only
they
and
this
not
by money.
need
They never
it,
had money
not
and did
in their
if
know
the use of
for
it
language.
did
given to them,
they
accept
round
their necks, as
an ornament.
They
them
the
practically
rafters
unknown.
Amongst
wall
as
are
stored
away some
bamboo smoking-pipe,
bamboo
few nick-nacks
also
including
charms against
There are
root to
make
LEPCHA WOMEN
99
war or against
tigers
The
family
relations
Lepchas
show
traces
of
mothers
and
not
throusfh
their
fathers.
Now
the
A LEPCHA WiJ.MAN.
Lepcha
has
usually
only
one
wife,
and there
is
no
ceremonial
are
marriage.
Some
of the
younger women-folk
their
remarkably
comely,
considering
Spartan
fair
up-
bringing;
and
many
and
soon
fatal to
good
L.
TOO
looks,
dress of the
women
a close-fitting
gown without
sleeves,
and
this
was probably
But now,
white cotton
up
in
show
a dress
grace in
in
which
its
effectually
masks
the figure
is
and has
little
drapery.
into
Their hair
pig-tails
parted
in
up
two
And
over the
thrown a gaudy
silk
somewhat
Spanish
Around
much
jewellery
And
up
many
to
of
them
the old
Saxon
and
and maid
namely,
zvif,
to weave,
spinster.
life
In domestic
kind
to
their
children
and
their
elders.
They
offered us
is
some
not
native tea
and
the
Murwa
tea
It
is
made from
plant,
and herbs.
after
each
bright
new
had
two-anna-bit, like an
laid in a large stock
English
of these
threepenny piece.
coins,
We
in
as they
come
handy
loi
for
Up
this valley,
hillside
now
and entirely by
this treasure
enrages these
all
malignant
ill-luck,
who
visit
sorts of
failure of
plagues of sickness on
men and
cattle,
and
The Nepalese
call
stretches of
American ageratiim
seizes
feet)
on
all
the fallow
we reach
the village or
Mik (3,700
the
"Stair
of the Rhinoceros."
common
now they
are not to be
It is
miles
down
is
the valleys.
also the
is
to
name
of a
found here.
We
in
Tendong.
front
to
sit
down
Then
we reached Namchi
Lasso Kazi.
102
The Kazi
many
mile of forest
is
and one
parcelled out
revenue purposes.
He
is
a Sikhimese Bhotiya.
Soon
he sent
his
steward to us with a
like to visit
us in
Before
the
tents,
and on
;
it
were placed
European
chairs
on Tibetan rugs
and a message
was sent
was coming.
tail
He
came, at
of retainers, kinsmen
103
still
exists
for the
payment of some
off his
We
bow
in
Chinese
style, after
himself.
His
most
whilst
of
whom wore
unceremoni-
Lepcha
plaids,
remained
girls,
standing,
his daughters,
bright-eyed,
giggling
seated themselves
his
ously on the
own
special
down on
we
We
mild
ruling race
from the
Lepchas.
Although leavened
retain
to
and
They
are
to the
The
well
are
powerfully
developed.
as
this
Their ordinary
suits
dress
Lepchas,
costume,
the
country
better
soft
felt
but
they
usually
wear a
like
Tibetan hat.
Over
collared,
sleeves,
lining,
turned up at
the cuff to
and girdled at
I04
the waist
is
made by
;
pulling
into
this
up the
gown above
stored
the
girdle
and
capacious
articles;
cavity
is
away a
prodigious
(p'or-pa),
number of
the
wooden drinking-cup
flint
and
steel,
small
in addition to
articles
often
girdle
In the
silk,
by a red
girdle,
and showing an
;
embroidered
vest,
silk,
On
hat,
and from
hung
He was
in
a middle-aged
man
we were
going,
wonderful
Calcutta.
Whilst
we were
thus engaged, a
hill,
noisy crowd of
preceded
learned
This uproar
we
serfs against a
demand
forced
sort of feudal or
more primi-
priests
Lamas,
to
work
for
it
T05
An
chief to
and labour,
buildings
at
new
the
Rajah's head-quarters
to leave
them
They were
this
when
at
told
that
order
must
be complied with
is
once.
What
the
not so
much
imposed, as
by rapacious
subordinate
officials;
for
Edgar,
^*^
"as
far as
himself,
bution."
the
least
noisy
the
people,
least
seems
to
man
all
he asketh."
This, indeed,
primitive
stage
of
to
in
that the
Lepchas seem
with
Bengal traders.
Previously,
as
chief,
who
as
rule
much
loan.
Thus, the
io6
individual
for
And
perhaps
is
Lepcha;
robbed of
his
incentive
to
exertion,
why
property
his labours?
ment
title
in
this
Lepchas,
cultivate
to
the
He may
is
cattle
and not on the land. Even our host the Kazi has no
proprietary
right in
real
a kind of hereditary
to his office.
Now, however,
ago,
a
months
a
we may expect
for
money payment,
that
to
say rent;
liberties
as
all
in
the
old
when
of
Such an arrangement
the servile class, but also to provide funds for making good
A
the
curious
rulers
It
Tibetan
code
of laws
supposed
to
guide
of the
is
by Mr.
White.
trial
an
Its
"
The
delight-
107
general in
form.
They
are
to
'
own
'
entirely to
Government work
must give
:
just
those
cases
men
can say,
your
are
well
done.'
The
laws
of evidence
that
The punishments
offences
vary
according
to
The murder
of father or mother
men may
is
of others
punishable by
varying
'
from 10
'
oz. to
300
with
oz.
old lamas
are classed
;
men
no rank
oz.
'
they can
is
be
killed for
life
80
ahead.
shed,
without
tively
light;
though
for
in
man may
his
be beheaded
wounding a
is
For wounding
own
servant
man
in
not
wounded man. So
his knife
is
quarrel,
man who
first
drew
fined,
his assailant.
no
and
avaricious,
oaths
are
required
even have to
'
io8
fools,
dumb and
enumeration
is
of persons on
whom
The
rela-
are
itself:
according to
a husband
primitive
simplicity
who
wishes
to
be separated from
his partner
to
A
left
wife
gives
a fixed
sum and
'
one
of clothes'"!
Scarcely had
insight into the
we
the
summary methods
of the village
ment.
The headman
who had
entertained us
to
on our way up
dishevelled
dress
this
morning,
uttering
"
came running
in
us with
truly
and
:
loud
tones
the
Hibernian
complaint
The
landlord
when
it,
protested that
could not
raided
pay
it
he with his
valuables and
men
my
he
house,
my
everything
could lay hands on, money, jewellery and even grain and
beer; and,"
he added
plaintively,
men
this
of the just
me
against
so
he
left
us
to Darjeeling to
The house
(jong) ;
is
and
as
usual,
it
is
BUDDHIST MONASTERY
modern weapons.
a
stone
platform,
It
is
109
two-storied
stone
building
on
image of
building
shelves.
The
rather
mean
in
bamboo
of the vassals
rule,
'
huts, to
mark
the
wild
the
from the
poorest
the
of his
There
is
little
rude carving on
doors.
The
mushroom-head shape,
thatched with
of
bamboo but
;
by corrugated
iron,
A
at
sundown
It
near by.
style,
than a "Free"
;
or dissenting church.
The
and
by
its
side
is
by jerking
a string
half revolu-
tion
is
by the
the
of a
I
chime,
as
at
bells
are
slightly
different
in
tone.
was amused
I
the
clumsy lying
of
the
at
Lama-priests
Darjeeling a
in charge.
to procure
certain
Tibet,
In
reply to
my
queries the
a copy, but
no
where
espied one.
;
On this,
and
I
Lamas were
not
a
it
whit abashed
at
they smiled
stoutly
refused to lend
any
price.
Here, however,
to
who chanced
be passing, that
bones, which
human
now
displayed
in
my
flit
Museum.
tales
till
told us weird
to
in the
surrounding gloom.
There
all
a certain
the
streams,
kelpies
and
other
One
of them
told
us
the
legend of
us,
that towered
above
and
Its tall
cone stands
Teesta and
when
(?'.
e.
'Lepchas')
The
waters drowned
the people in the valleys and covered all the mountains except this peak Tendong, and that of his sister Mainom, the adjoining mountain The few survivors who had fled to Tendong saw the to the north. peak of Mainom disappear under the water, and hence it is called 'Mainom', (properly Ma-nom) or 'The Disappearing Sister'; and the shrieks of the drowning can still be heard from Tendong, which then alone remained above the flood. The still rising waters lapped this peak also, and threatened to swallow it, whereupon the surviving people prayed to the mountain to save them, and it then mii-aculously elongated Hence this itself, and kept its clinging refugees above the rising flood. mountain was named Tendong, properly Tiiit-rong^ or 'The Uplifted
Horn'.
After
fell,
Rong
this
miraculous
way saved
their ancestors.
iii
Now
this
I
Ararat possibly
preserves,
the
by
a great land-
below
its
are
side
occasionally
occurring in this
opposite
way
of the
valley,
Rang-liot, which
Lepcha
Brimful
"The
in
a legend
with his
which
spouse,
his
tells
how
Rang-eet
river
quarrelled
the
Teesta,
her, carried
sites
waters
high
up
the
two
above
mentioned.
In the beginning of the world, when the rivers were first let down from the mountains, the King of Serpents, Pa-ril-lyu^ led the Teesta River,
straight
straight,
down
of this river
is
generally
The
Straight-going Great
Female River' {Rang-nyo-ung). On the other hand, the other chief river of Sikhim, the great Rang-eet, was led down by the quail-like bird, ^Tut-fo {Pitta Nepalensis). Now this bird, on the way, feeling hungry, ran about here and there searching for food, and thus it led the Rang-eet an extremely winding circuitous course, so that when the river approached the plains, he found that the Teesta had already arrived there and had occupied the only available outlet. Waxing wroth at being thus forestalled by a female, the Rang-eet turned himself round and retired amongst the mountains, till his waters rose to Rang-iroon and Rang-liot. Then, fearing lest his rashness might endanger the world, he repented and returned and espoused the Teesta, and they twain have flowed on together ever after.
'
especially as the
Lepcha
also be rendered
"The Beloved
rivers.
Retiring
If
Great
or
Queen"
it
such an
enormous landslip
had occurred,
no
evidence of
deposits
extensive
lacustrine
have been
in the
Nepal
where
such
place
tells
and there
us
tradition
still
that
the
plains
of
Katmandu were
covered
great
a
by
a
till
lake
saint
named
Mellow-
"The
Voiced
One "
cut
(Manjitsri)
the
his
let
dam
with
sword, and
the river es;
now
call-
THE MORNING
mati).
BAG AT GAMOTANG.
to
ed
ing
"The
Flee-
One" (^^<2^>^it
With regard
that
is
remark-
able
the
bird
therein
mentioned
is
almost wingless,
birds,
GAME
The
following
IN SIKHIM
(6th
ii3
morning
October),
we
crossed the
fine forest
steep shoulder of
Tendong
(8,675
^0 through a
down
there
to
Temi
in the valley
of the Teesta,
We
the
were told
tracks
were
leopards
about,
and
we saw
{^^
of
The
latter
of
suffer
much.
We
also
saw
[Gallophasis
inelanonottis),
the
fine
red
but
we had no time
is
to
go
after
them
just then.
Game
is
not, after
all,
generally believed
though
is
difficult
to get
at,
in
the
evergreen
it
forest,
streams
the
is
year.
Sportsmen,
for
something Sikhim
will find
get a
fair
long
Nimrod may
several
men, travelling
fine
musk
silver fox,
of the gorgeous
"
Cham-dong "),
114
sand-grouse,
woodcock, snow-pigeons,
etc.,
that they
get
by the way.
all
And on
is
game from
accounts
very
plentiful.
As on
this
occasion
we
my collection,
including
sun-birds
like
lustrous
gems,
""
of
Gorgeous
butterflies
abound
in
more than
One
for
of the
swallow-tailed
said
to
be worth about 20
{Kallima
inaches)
which conceals
it
itself
by
imitating the
surface
lives.
The under
wings
it
is
like a
dead
atti-
leaf,
and
supports this
the
illusion,
as
noted by
"'
Wallace
in
regard to
is
butterflies
of Sumatra.
So
marvellously close
out, that
creatures
to
and survive
The change
in the foliage
forests
was noticeable
as
we ascended
THE
tints
SPIRITS
etc.,
OF THE PASSES
ii^
of the maples,
Further
up,
shelter of
bamboo
[Ba-kyini) in the
is
forest,
Lama comes
every year
Mount Tendong,
;
for the
that old
Where
usually
was
the
spirit
of the
mountain.
At
these
spots our
men
laid
down
their loads,
strips of
dress, tied
them
as
to a twig or a stone,
on the
cairn,
and
The
spirits
are
The
!)
In
passing
these
travellers invariably
keep them
is
on
their
right side
token of respect.
This
an oldit
is
practised in stirring
etc., in
in cattle treading
walking thrice
in
way around
it
those to
called.
deazer\ as
is
make
the
an
ill-fated
traveller,
left
who
has died
among
the mountains.
Leaving to our
ii6
visits to
which
have already
my Buddhism
"
of Tibet"
zigzags to Temi.
as the clayey soil
And
The
6,000
first
feet.
Above
is
done on account
The
is
is
practised here
the
same which
and
in
common among
tribes,
the
have seen
in
are
scratched
for
or
abundant crops
about
two years,
it
after
which
period,
is
abandoned and a
after a year or
two
is
in turn
abandoned
so on, until
after ten or
first
is
brought
under
this
''jhooming" process, as
of forest which this
in
it
is
called.
The
is
destruction
practice
entails,
perhaps
excusable
such
sparsely
populated region
and
rots
to a paying market.
117
these
patches of
"jhoomed"
fields
by
forest belts,
we soon
Here the
for the
hill-side
Temi
(4,771
ft).
house
we
The zones of
cultivation
here
Hooker's
visit.
Much
The view
moun-
ridges
leading up
cliffs
to
snows
in the
foreground were
days'
march up the
semi-tropical valley
to cross
by which we had
after the
night,
still
down over
and
more
boiling
sHppery
mica-schist
chlorite
and
over
and
dashing
torrents., that
we had
to
cross
by
In
could not
rivulet,
despite
from the
blazing
sun overhead.
fish
in
descending
and captured.
We
ii8
tasted
but
CROSSING TORRENTS.
rather insipid.
for
a few minutes
the ubiqui-
119
bamboo. Our
forest that
way,
like
down
our
rope-hke vines
barred
path.
;
The
characteristic
especiallynettle,
and we were
so-called
"deadly"
The
wild
Mango was
to
common,
and
its
fruit
the taste.
Amongst
got no
the
fewer than
these
shewing
climate
hereabout.
The head-man
and bananas.
call
He
as
still
call
themselves Yak-tamba
flatter faces,
They have
and
in feature
than the
Lepchas
They seem
to
and other
into
Nepalese
tribes.
I20
Nepal as
Arun
river,
(see
map
in
by Mr,
Risley, to
be denoted
A LIMBOO BEAUTY.
by nicknames.
merely the
if
true
but
it
is
meaning of the
attempting the
Limboo names
an alien language,
like
are
so absurd as to
seem nicknames,
Mr, Risley,
121
is
to
be hoped that on
he
tells
will
Achoom
me
these
open wide,
In
there's nothing
us the disconcerting
by which we must
;
was
extensive repairs
it.
so
we despatched some
up
men
the
to repair
hill
to the
boasts a finely
carved door.
Tibet,
head
Lama
the
is
Ugyen Gyatsho,
Reports.
long,
several miles
and believed
all
mountains Tendong
devils.
and Mainom,
infested of course
is
by
which Hooker
The
following day
a ridge which
we
crossed was
in
is
called
Neh
(about 2,500
ft.),
and
it
of Mainom.
We
all
of the pipsee
flies
122
that
in so
doing
it
which often
for
end
in ulcers.
We
them
but our
coolies
the
open suffered
;
severely.
The
land-leeches
made
we had
not gone
KaHmpong)
to escape all
leopard,
tiger-cat, civet,
by
my
collector here
and the
flesh
of
all
these animals
was
eaten
delicacy.
We
these
their
animals
of their
specific
colours.
How
admirably
well
as
own
natural enemies.
it
The
practically invisible
tree-foliage
where
it
lives
haunts.
So
too,
of the civet
in the
123
the morning,
we descended
the
gloomy gorge
As we reached
men
spirit
us cross in safety.
And,
certainly,
it
looked
as
if
special
prayers
for
dangerous at
times,
skeleton of
itself,
river
rickety
structure
to
suggest the
horrors
by the ancients
to
the
it
And we had
to cross
somewhat
after the
rope.
Here, however,
we had
knotted
and
in
their
and
trunks
of trees
parallel
the
neighbourhood
tied
and
ropes,
and
other at
intervals
of a
yard or
;
pended
bits
and
in the
laid a line of
bamboos,
footing.
end
It
is
to
end,
on
find
your
thus
like
124
it
all
open on
either side,
and
as
in mid-air,
I
Himalayas,
looking as
but
this.
none
were
ever
so
alarmingly
it,
On
climbing
frail
up on to
but rotten
it
proved on
And we now
days before
sent two
repair
it,
and had
last
These bridges
only
this river
sent one of
my
Lepchas,
it,
to these
it,
bridges, to examine
and
was
crossable.
Sending
taken
him across
off
again,
as
first
my
boots,
the
bamboos on which
I
had
to
walk
were so slippery.
I
But
foothold,
single
bamboos were
V-slings,
neither lashed
to
the
thereit
retraced
my
steps,
to tie
up
bit.
I
almost shudder,
Had
known
125
me
it.
The
instant that
you step on
from side to side and pitching with every step you take,
like
ship
in
storm.
lift
They swerve
your foot
;
with
sudden
jerk,
when
the
up
after you, as
seizing
railing,
you have
to
this
jerky
way
without
much
difficulty,
so long as
I
had
open
where
to place
your
feet,
the
rush
are
swiftly
upstream.
down, how
the
bamboo
find
overhanging
abyss
and on which
miss
you must
your
shaky
footing,
and to
which
means
tied
certain death?
one,
front
tilted
up;
and
widely
separate
and some
;
also
of these
slings
were
126
person
But
it
round
on
so,
this
shaking,
which
I
had
boo,
and
after
each step
had
to half close
my
eyes for
Ah,
it
One
Still
meant
there
was a fascination
all,
suspended
far
at that
beneath,
rainbow
tints
boiling
abyss below.
At
last,
after
per-
past.
be provided
Once
across,
shouted to Kintoop,
who had
arrived
by
And
it
was marvellous
to
his
assistants.
They darted
strips
between
their
they
ropes, clinging
with their toes, like monkeys; and they deftly tied up several
of the
loosest
parts,
prehensile
toes in
127
operation,
in
places
to
hold on
with
both hands.
in
Such
have they
they use
acquired
otherwise,
;
that
them dextrously
acts almost
gripping things
and
Hke a thumb.
these
repairs
Even when
were done,
all
it
of
whom
of these
hills,
it,
parcels,
tied
up
in
Lepcha
plaids
and slung on to
in this
some scores of
times, our
baggage was
it
finally
got across.
to
As
was pathetic
after
it
their loads.
The
thrilling horror
in their faces as
see.
At a
critical
moment more
down
in the
middle of the
go
either forwards
or
backwards
till
someone
and two of
lost
these
we thought must
reached them.
certainly
have
been
before
assistance
to cross
on
And
all
of us
who
crossed,
vowed
that
we would
rather
We
studied
the
mechanism of the
"^
bridge,
while
our
baggage was
crossing.
Its
128
is
provide
against
the
rise
It
is
where the
through
rushes
it
in
cliffs
which
has cut
way
and these
cliffs
piers
From
and
the trunks
stays
and
like
the
and
either
As
these had
become
rotten they
a chain of bits of
bamboo bark
From
bamboos
originally
which
form
the
platform or
footway.
There
bamboos dovetailed
spliced
to
their
by
side
and
securely
lashed
and
adjoining
chain,
but the
bamboos had
fallen
out
long
before
our
arrival.
An
At
intervals of every
ten
feet
or
so,
a rod
of
bamboo
its
is
passed transversely
cane and bark that are tied to the two cables, which are
129
kept apart.
called
Jalmig by the
the site of
Nepalese,
the
and by the
is
Sampa; and
Sam-pa
for
name
this
Sang-choo, or
"The Pure
Water",
air
owing
fall
The
was
current in places
and
stifling
gorge up on to a cool
cairn
where
we
encamped
at
the
or
Mendong
of Tyun-tang,
amongst wild
citrons.
And
Achoom had
made
us forget
ofl"
early
with fine
On
before nightfall. But oh, the hateful leeches and the climb
The damp
with legions
forest
through
which
we passed swarmed
of
voracious
land-leeches.
No
thicker
than
a knitting-needle
when they
are
fasting,
leaf
on the path.
And
as
we approach9
I30
in
the
endeavour
to
seize
hold
fix
of us
The
instant
they
touch their
victim,
they
themselves
firmly
and then
till
mount nimbly up by a
reach a vulnerable point
in
they
commencing
their
surgical
Our poor
serv-
ants
and coolies
bitten.
who walked
bare-footed
were of course
little
badly
From
all
their ankles
and
legs
streams of
blood trickled
pests
and
it
was often
to
dislodge
them.
We
with tobacco-snuff,
in putties or thick
wool-
bandages,
ankle to the knee, over the boots and stockmgs, and give
grateful
more freedom
off
to the calf
We
thousands
our boots
and
over
the
Dik-chu
river,
after
having walked
that a large
forest,
we found
fill
their
of
us.
They had
and
between the
folds
of our putties,
And,
gorging themselves
DIK-CHU CANE-BRIDGE.
VORACIOUS LAND-LEECHES
swollen
while
there
133
with
our blood,
to
the
size
of small
boots,
chestnuts
others
into
our
and had
all
this
had
happened
quite
unconsciously to
the
us.
Washing our
B.
more
profusely.
was
than
day long.
It
was
in
pitiful
also
to
see
the
poor
cattle,
these
leech-infested
less,
forests.
Their
were
always
bleeding more or
in their nostrils
their eyelids
To
men,
or so
is
said,
for a
day
themselves,
their legs
and
may
be removed.
the
I
actual
of blood in this
great.
with
game
in these
regions.
They range
in
these
damp
forests
from about
for the
"The
Blood-drinker" [tak-toong).
The normal
food,
the
mosquitos,
is
vegetable juice
and not
taste
This
river,
the
Dik-chu
or
Ryot,
is
a snow-fed stream
feet in a
course of
J34
"The
Bris-
Restless
Water"
all
The
leeches
rain,
all
that,
was
now about
p.m.,
we had not
toast.
We
but there
was
the
little
we reached
feet
about 3,000
above
us
we found
that
Achoom and
gone on ahead.
So
after
we
to
Toomlong. Short
went right up
and
this track
the rocky face of the gorge, rising about 3,000 feet in two
miles. It
at
at the
end of a long
We
I
had frequently to
creepers.
pull
by clutching hold of
The
When
down
away
at his invi-
quench our
;
thirst,
was on
a ridge
when
QUARTERED
IN
A MONASTERY
Murwa
this
155
beer,
which
he presented to me.
I
Refreshed
by
reviving
beverage,
my
guide.
He
told
me
that the
news of
was only about a mile higher up, and that the good Lamas
had immediately sent him
to us with the
welcome Murwa.
ft.)
Wet and
as
weary,
we reached
just
the
Lamas
provided us a blazing
in the
Achoom
in
spreading
round the
fire,
brought
comforts.
in
CHAPTER
IV
And
leaving Sikhim's halls, the four O'er Mafi's hill, by Ringon's rill, 'Neath stately Narim's summit hoar, By Namga's shades and Chakoong's glades. And rapid Teesta's rocky shore Travelled till they the torrent crossed.
C. Macaulay's
Lay of Lachen.
WAS
rudely
at
daybreak,
our
'
cell,
found the noise proceeded from a band of Lamathe outside of the temple,
with
still
more
ear-piercing
blast
at the
One
was so
immensely long
to
over
six feet
that
march
in front to
OUR CLOISTER
Our
cloister
in
IN
THE MONASTERY
a
139
the
it
daylight looked
severely
empty
were
room, innocent as
frescoed with the
was of any
the
only inmates.
solemnly
black
fleas
beams
had crept out from nooks and crannies and were much
evidence.
in
Some
Keating's
insect
powder,
which
had
still
about a dozen of our coolies had not yet turned up. These
men
till
late in
the forenoon.
to let our
We
here
halted here
also to
men
recuperate,
all
and
weed out
we go
baggage,
is
a drawback.
We
also
wished to
visit
the
King
told,
of Sikhim,
We
were
new
political
agent at Gantok,
this
us
an invitation to
The abbot
or
called
Phodang,
"The
Chapel-Royal",
persons
in the state.
He
has
control,
and as he
is
something of a
patriot,
I40
old
man
is
friar rather
may
He
much
of his
own
kindly
acting for
him during
his absence,
minister,
is
intelligent
well-mannered youth
and as he
after us
some
bits of jewellery,
and
tins of
fancy
all
biscuits,
bottle
of liqueur
teapot,
The
Valley
situation of this
is
fine.
It
commands views up
(14,925
ft),
so
is said,
from
its
surmounting
is
Labrang,
or
"The
Bishop's
Palace,"
Buddhas"
or re-incarnated Lamas,
who no
Lama
The
has
saintly reputa-
of this
particular
however,
worn a
little
murwa
beer.
And
is
THE
KING'S PALACE
141
whom
is
sister
of
"Tcheeboo" Lama,
After breakfast
we sauntered about
were preening
and dressing
to
their leech-bites.
bites,
One
of the
best
applications
these
to
prevent the
I
found,
Balsam, which
had brought
for that
it
trouble
which
is
a sovereign remedy.
In the
afternoon
we
at
to visit the
palace
Toomlong.
We
were escorted by
was the
of
Sikhim.
There
is
wide
after
intervals;
some
other
ofificials.
But
then
we were only
ordinary
travellers, for
whom
to
things were not put en rose ; and personsee things as they really are in every-
ally
we
life.
prefer
day
The
of the
",
which crowns a
style,
knoll,
is
a barn-like building
Sikhim
with
great
thatched
tied
Its
roof
at
sur-
projecting
mushroom-head
it
fashion,
and
off.
down
is
being blown
turret, like
roof
mounted by a small
gilt
142
The whole
place
it is
has a
is
nothing
to suggest that
the
two or three
in the
the
gate-way
are clad in
locks.
wormwood
weeds,
we were conFor
this
ducted by a round-about
house,
as
way
to the
main door.
is
the
residence of a "priest-king,"
like a
sacred,
and
must be approached
direction;
that
is
hand
to the wall.
The
chief door
timber,
opened
into
dark
and thence,
groping
our
way,
we stumbled
into
Room", where
a
his court.
It
had
mean
look,
in
rough hewn
Robinson Crusoe
fashion,
and
it
was without
civilization.
shrewd
in
features,
and dressed
suit,
ordinary Bhotiyas,
a not over-clean
came forward
He was
in
Dewan. Speaking
that
Hindu-
as
neither
is
of
us
at
Tibetan, which
143
sat
down
cross-
legged on a cushion
Rajah,
upon the
and plied
his prayer-wheel
floor,
whilst our
us,
men
seated
behind
We,
as
were
first
served
with
their
it
in
small
Chinese
became
inferior rank,
had
to
car-
in his breast-pocket.
ever tasted.
It
for
politeness'
sake,
we had
his
suffered
people since
as to
we
But
we
did
not wish him to be able to hinder our movepredecessors had done Hooker's; or report
the Tibetans, with
ments,
as his
our
intended route to
still
whom many
of
covertly in league.
He
owing
told
us that
if
we proposed going up
to do)
it
the Lachen
Valley,
(and this
we wished
this in-
formation
proved to be
true.
He was
anxious to
to
know
do with the
144
country
Rajah's
and he apologized
sister,
for the
non-appearance of the
I
asked
why
their particular
names,
for
such
names
in
this
physical
peculiarities.
But
his
reply
convincing kind:
that
is
"They
I
are
called
to
and so because
back on
the
their
name;" so
had
this
fall
my
chief
sources of information
itself,
on
subject,
fountain-head
local-
ities
question.
When we
got up to
go he rose and
We
way
down
and were
open
air,
home.
We
had
In such dismal
it
and hedged
has
in
by
his priests,
is
indeed a
wonder
he
is.
that he
not turned
out
The King,
the Tibetan
or
is
word
"king",
is
a Tibetan
-^
by descent and
sympathies.
The
of his dynasty,
largely of the
his
predecessors
He was
born
in
name
of
"The
145
well
shown
in the
is,
SIKHIM.
ment caused by
His
wife,
his hare-lip.
is
the queen,
a Tibetan,
the
daughter of a
is
Lama
of Lhasa, and
named
is
Ten-zam-drama. As seen
headdress
146
she
is
bright and
Some
of the questions
visit,
through an interpreter
"How
old
are
"Why
are
like
most of
his
predecessors in
who
have
made
sort
of priest-king
in
of him.
their
power
all
to
his
rites
Buddhism
by
chiefly
consists.
They
direct
declare that he
is
saint
birth,
that
he
is
the
descendant of the
greatest
who was
contemporary
of
Mahomed
in
the
seventh
who
first
They say
in
Kham,
eastern
Tibet,
kings of Sikhim,
of
who
Kham-ba, or "natives
Kham",
title
writers
"Kham-ba"
it
is
of the
tinction
race.
Lepcha
tribe,
whereas
is
a purely Tibetan
to
147
probably, however,
their
own
Not
sordid ends.
to
in
the
East.
the old
Theebaw
the
ex-king
of
Burma was a
priest-king,
who
claimed to be
to wit, a
own Sakya
tribe.
And
many
of the
descent
from
God
himself!
among
the
of Central
set
India.
Aryan headmen
themselves
Rajputs,
members
priests
an
into
the
government or misits
government of
this
on
built up.
fringe of thriving
semi-independent
internal
affairs,
self-governing
as
regards
their
of invasion, but
as
we guarantee
their
autonomy
148
For trade,
"The
greatest of
"is
all
Mr.
exist
Chamberlain,
management,
is
never thought of
commerce
leaves
no
alternative
Our
this
relations
with
this
little
Himalayan
state
arose
in
way.
the
When
warlike
tribe of
The
British,
however,
in
and adding
to
his
his country,
whose
after
growing power
at that time
endangered
India.
Then
between
Sikhim
settle
it
the
was
sent.
He was
so impressed
'T
/V
BRITISH EMPIRE-BUILDING
for its cession.
territory,
149
The Rajah
yielded in
of hilly land
for
connecting
pension
with the
plains,
in
exchange
an annual
of -300,
much
it.
by
leaps
for several
years
priests
between
or rather the
who
sion
to
power of a
who
ruled the
own
profit.
He was
an invete-
slaves from
the
local
chiefs,
territory,
release
return of
In the
fled to Darjeeling.
demands he
in
seized
the
1849,
when
for six
weeks
where
we now
then
lives
are
travelling here,
lost their
as
related
by Hooker
in his Journals.
These
Lower Sikhim
including
all
by
the banishment
I50
The
evil
when
road-making and to
in return for this
facilitate
Tibet;
and
though no actual
King
made
to
him by our
in
remain a dead
letter.
In 1884 Mr.
Colman Mac-
commercial
there had been between India and that country was languishing,
prevailed
secretary,
was
that
jealously
isolated
On
this
errand
he passed
frontier
letter
will
from the
of the
Following up
for a
terms of the Treaty of Tientsin extracted by the Euroat the occupation of Pekin.
pean powers
But
this^
passport
151
much
of
Chinese
concessions,
is
used.
For
it
own
secret
orders
armed
force of Tibetans
frontier.
opposed
it
and
prevented
it
Chinese view
some of
their territory
its
Our abandonment of
by the
They stopped
all
his country
and
settle
years
there
and he
made
to
was going
sorely
to ruin
were being
harassed
by orders
of
issued
in
his
;
name, extorting
that
extravagant
sums
they were
and
threw
an
into Sikhim in
152
1887
barrier
Lingtoo,
Sikhim
territory.
and
little
to ourselves.
who
imposed
now
over.
The
he
duties
the
Tibetans.
Commission
appointed to
Good
roads
swanns
forests
and give
to
it
in-
dustrious peasantry.
To
own Tibetan
wife,
and
dence
than
one
across
the
valley
the
white
tents
of our
months.
why
Sikhim, so rich
valleys
become
153
its
way
but,
every
prospect of the
The
chief obstacle
priests
is
advance,
is
now
power of the
broken,
department
certainly
does
much
aptitude
Much more
presumptive
hopeful
as
is
his
younger son,
son
still
who
is
his
heir,
the
elder
has
been
made
monk
if
in Tibet.
This boy,
who
is
suitably
educated,
become a
creditable ruler
and those
its
who have
at heart,
bility,
people
will see
the advisa-
and respon-
towards
training,
his
Such
entirely
however, to be
must be done
is
by a competent European,
for
it
in
the last
and there
is
much
risk
of this
happening,
for
even the
association
with
Bengalees,
that
really
our
Sikh orderly
must be
is
not a Sikhimite at
all.
It
to be
hoped
ment
while con-
154
ally.
On
lazily
returning
in
to
the
in
monastery with
its
flags fluttering
else,
the
a
wind,
everything
we found
etc.
few presents of
stale
We
acknowledged these
in
gifts
the usual
way,
by sending him
and
return
much
more than
the
servants
who brought
the
things.
in
The remainder
of
we spent
The monks
idols of
Buddha and
the
mon-
and Tibetan
divinities of the
Lamas.
On
it
were
water,
flowers
stuck
in
English beer-bottles
bearing
and
sacrificial
implements.
the
Clouds of incense
filled
the
building,
lit
and
in
smoky
by
monks
half veiled
and half
visible
This
When
up
into a whisper,
and the only sound was the slow deep sepulchral tones of
the
steal
seemed
to
your very
soul.
Then suddenly
the thunder of
155
of cymbals
crashes
on your
and the
becomes
and discordant.
this
We
service
was
specially
our
benefit,
as
candles and had arranged for special prayers for the success
What immensely
tickled
our
Indian
servants
was the
in the temple,
They
would much
its
like
to
we turned
for
the
night
we
noticed an extraordinary
who had
evidently been
to
paying
to
visits
muriva
They
but
all
were
in
at all boisterous
all right in
October)
we were
off"
again
a landslip.
we passed
small
monastery
Laurel".
The Meadow of
the Scented
This
is
species of
156
a rosy-cheeked,
see
if
buxom
girl,
parents to
of marriage.
to apply
go,
steep,
The people
many
are the
Rocky Avalanches
of the
",
not only
are
rocks
that
shot
down by
of the glaciers
which
its
foolhardy
since
person
who
dares
to
penetrate
glens
the
the
mausoleum
it.
One
to
is
tent.
The Lepchas
rulers
Bhotiya
from
the
and
in
self-defence
this
others
of
their
own.
form
of
Lamaism
Thus
they offer eggs and sacrifice fowls and other living things
157
Buddha
Here we
saw several
birds
of that well-nigh
extinct
They
from the
told us
to
all
Our Lepchas
regard
curious
habits
of these birds in
their
how
mud
wall
over
small
young
lined with
slightly
many
landslips,
was
it.
still
fresh
and
moving
as
we
scrambled over
the Hill", and
Beyond
Ringon, or "
The Monastery of
its
mendong
commands
to the
fine
Kanchen-junga
we descended
the
to the village
of Singtam, where
we encamped on
bank of a stream,
They
were
turned
like
a water-mill
at
When
came
pay
to
we
tried
food had already run alarmingly low, and we had been told
that
We
therefore
tried to
and the
158
such
a quantity
it,
could
not be
it
found,
he
and measured
own
hands,
On
receiving the
money and
and bowed
tration
p.
thanks
in
true
illus-
172).
The Kazi
or baron
who
resided here in
and
there.
He
we had
by way of the
Lachen
We
tall
stood up like a
Our
rising
down
cliffy
to the
Teesta;
here
in
fern
cades
tumble
lost
down
in
the
cliffs
and leap
mid-air
to
become
rainbow
mist
At the Lepcha
village
of Namgor, where
we were
to
Tibetan shepherds,
sheep,
that
They had
come from
valley.
After
and
159
open
weeks
letter
at least.
We
thereupon despatched
Kintoop
with
Choong-tang.
now
over
4,000
ft.
above the
sea.
And
after
fording
many
tributary torrents
the open
gravelly
clear
delta
close
hand.
As we passed
a copse of alders, on a
we heard
pheasants
afterwards
the
tempting cover,
silver
and
my man
brought
here.
some
Teesta,
is
now
marked out
by small pyramids of
stones,
On we
This
went
until
we had
road"
again
to scale
to to
Upper Sikhim
the
river-bed
very
literal
sense
Descending
beyond,
to
where, at an elevation of
i6o
5,200
their
above the
sea, the
unite
waters to
form the
commencement
Teesta.
Here the
road to Tibet branches into
two, one of which leads up
the
valley-
Upon
the
promontory formed by
their junction,
i6i
The Meadow of
Marriage
(of the
two
rivers)."
On
crossing the
Lachoong
the
torrent
by a good
cane-bridge,
head
Lama
was
awaiting us with
murwa, on
the
quite a youth,
handsome
images of Buddha.
the
He
presented a
ceremonial
scarf, in
Tibetan
style,
the available
men from
these men,
present.
We
take
built
which
it
appeared that
Lachen would
nearly
entirely
posite bank, as
valley.
confess,
we were bound.
So we decided,
reluctantly,
to
alter
our
instead,
and
thence try to work round into the Lachen Valley by Kangralamo, as Hooker did,
in
by the
And we were
reconciled lo
i62
this
Our
hearts
its
bold pine-clad
off;
rises
so
rapidly that
it
is
almost Alpine at
this its
lower end.
meadow and
we responded
to
We
strains of
in single
band
First,
there
we had seen
at
Phodang. After
We
priests,
while
The monastery
looking the rivers.
is
perched on a commanding
It
is
knoll, over-
small two-storied
building of
One
temple
is
with three
is
that of a blood-thirsty
and vindictive
she-devil.
To account
163
her
high
Lamas say
that the
it,
name
of this place
call
"
Choong-
"The Meadow
This
of our
Lady
(-Sow)".
now
solitary place
still
and
it
The people
of Lachen
whom
the abbot or
Lama
of this
monastery claimed
tithes
spiritual jurisdiction
that
related, that
the infuriated
tering
mob
each valley,
their
at
the
spot
hands
in the
owe
Lama, or send
their sons to
its
be monks
of this
monastery, or do any of
its
drudgery or cultivate
to the monastery,
any of
lands.
geance on the
precipitately
Lama
The
down
he
still
lives.
deserted monastery
till
fell
into decay,
and
remained
in
a ruinous state
1883,
Lama was
This new
said
;
it is
and
them and
and
fled to
at present
in charge.
64
He
I
up to
out,
his
Buddhist ideal
in
in
some ways,
for
when
was going
gun
over
my
sin of shooting,
life,
and appealed
within
I
to
me
not to take
any animal
temple
at least
of Buddha.
So
had
go botanizing
instead.
inspirit-
And
ing
snowy peaks
rising
only
we were cheered
to feel that
we were
on the threshold
last.
CHAPTER
THE ALPINE LACHOONG VALLEY TO THE TIBETAN FRONTIER THE TANG-KAR, DONG-KIA, SEEBOO, PATA AND GORA PASSES
A
No
silent
warning
far
around
foot
may
Lay of Lachen.
Such
delightful
day's
all
our
many
ran
Our path
first
it
along the
river.
At
led
semi-tropical.
But
us
we crossed
to the opposite
bank by
Tibetan
Hooker
lost his
i66
opened out a
little.,
on either side of
reaches ot the
The upper
hillsides got
bare
and rugged,
ern
and northern
striking.
sides
was
most
The warm
were
still
southern
slopes
covered
by
dense
forest,
where straggling
or climbing
rattan-ciiWQ.,
palms,
rose
to
167
pines, as
we moved upwards
farther
down
the
mountain sides;
lay
the
cold
northern
shade,
snow
this side
At
hut
in
the hamlet of
Kedoom
(6,400
feet)
we
halted at a
trees,
and found
is
the fruit
ripe.
Here there
very
place,
marked change
as
the
flora
this
Mr.
Blanford
the
observes,
may be
considered the
faunas,
boundary
between
Malay
and
Palsearctic
is
3,000 to 4,000
to
be found here.
We
same which
is
so
;
common
and
I
in China,
have seen
same
style
Upper
by
Csesar,
still
to be
other
sturdy
trees,
are laid
down on
either
bank and
"canted" up, so that one end projects a long way over the
bank, and the beams are fixed in this position by loading
down
their
rocks.
Then
across
together; and on
for footway,
is
wood
i68
bridge,
cattle
as this
can cross
this
Beyond
bridge,
undergrowth got
less dense.
We
open glade
squirrels
in the forest,
amongst walnut
where the
were busy
at
work.
We
Onwards through
hazel,
Tibetan
its
rich pasture.
time
"Zoo"
in
Regent's Park.
They
the
appearance
cattle
call
is
something
between
American
bison,
and the
grunting
denoted
in their scientific
name
of
{Bos grimnie7is).
They
are noble-looking
in spite of their
of the snows,
is
and
in
ground.
the
The
tail
which serves
same purpose
the
bushy
tail
of the hybernating
squirrel,
curling over
its
like a rug,
cold
These bushy
fly- whisks
yak-tails are
much
demand
in India,
as
169
emblems
wild
The
;
colour
of the
yak
is
a dark brown,
almost black
valued muzzles
white,
their
tails
have
tipped
their
with
some white on
neck,
and
their
entirely white.
The
kind
of polled
also
yak.
Here
were
YAKS.
the
common
and
for the
yak interbreeds
"^^
freely with
most other
species of the
are
said
to
ox
tribe.
called Zo,
stand
these
warmer valleys
better
than pure
yaks,
I70
lower elevations in
rather fierce, and
latitude.
it
Most of these
cattle
are
we found
politic to give
them a wide
berth in passing.
name
".
In pastoral Tibet,
where
done
the use of
money
is
almost
unknown and
for
business
is
the
"Yak"
call
itself is
of the
beast: and
nothing
to form
seemed
the
better than a
good
fat
yak
and hence
is
it
came
common word
for that
which
The
sight of these Tibetan cattle with their Tibetan herdstheir fierce visaged deeplike bears, with a white
who
are
marked
name
is
"Bear"
[Tom-mo),
made
us feel that
we were
still
of Tibet itself
And
this
was
musical jingle
of harness
bells
who came
on ponies
and yaks, and driving a string of laden yaks. For baggageanimals pass regularly along this track from
Kedoom
eagle
to
Here,
too,
Lammergeyer
came
171
truly Alpine.
On
either side
of us rose snow-capped
of trees,
except
in the ravines
clustered thickly.
and
first
reached
about 8,000 feet above the sea-level, and about ten miles
of Lachoong (8,600
lying like
a truly Alpine
town
the
in the
We
by a party of the
inhabitants led
in
by the headTibetan
style,
pressing forward his right ear and putting out his tongue
in his
I think,
one of
Herbert Spencer
"^
And
it
has
is
no
" scratch-
What
is
done
in addition to the
bow
prostration,
that
the
ear.
This,
it
seems to me,
in
172
custom of cutting
the
left
ears of
all
prisoners taken in
them
The
an
essential
of
Tibetan
courtesy.
Not
only
is
this
paying formal
visits,
it,
and
important
letters.
So extensively indeed
articles
used
LACHOONG VILLAGE
173
We
that
abruptly
many thousand
we could
feet
above
its
us.
How
high
in
rose, indeed,
not see, as
its
mist;
but a glacier
peeped over
low on
its
cliffy
sides,
and the
blew down
overcoats.
its
slopes
Our
tent
villagers
who watched
Some
of the
girls
hats,
Bhotiya
women
at Darjeeling.
The
greatest
of
all
for the
we
was
interesting to
us.
It
How
made
to look
up
scrambling
cliffs,
which
by
seemed
almost
perpendicular.
They
we expected
eyes, or send
either
to see
some of
down
to over-
whelm
us below.
the sun
At
when
threw the valley into cold shade, the herdsmen called their
174
cattle
the precipitous
at a run,
near
their
playful
see.
clumsy and
uncouth,
literally
were ludicrous to
Instead
of lowing, they
bells,
like
It
Alpine
cattle.
Here
got
my
first
glass of yak's
milk.
and
is
as
meat
for
the
us,
camp.
Amongst some
little
were
brought
turnips,
grown
locally
which
is
badly
off
for
is
vegetables.
They have no
far.
Murwa
too
bulky to import so
stuff
and even
this is a luxury.
Lama
of the place.
The
Tibetans, as they
came
Ha
province of
are
They
nomads
habit.
fixed
their head-quarters at
village,
months.
In
the
by
stages,
to
their
summer
grazing-stations,
all
which
lie
at
intervals
A NOMAD TRIBE
And
In
at
175
shelters,
this
pass
(18,000
ft.)
is
usually
unsnowed
and
move
slowly
of their cattle, and their produce, to Kamba-jong, the headquarters of the adjoining district in Tibet.
as far as the capital of
few go even
humpo). At those
this
Lachoong
further
down, almost
vil-
Kedoom. The
and
lage,
is
said
to
resemble
their
it.
These
themselves
immensely on
their
contempt
paid in kind, at
of two pounds
each house.
whom we
He came
176
accepted, although at
it
time
my
acceptance of
I
meant,
would favour-
He was
a joUy-looklng, typical
monk
sion,
and he rejoiced
in the
title
of
"The Holder
of the
He
said that he
had
all
along been
to Mr.
Macaulay,
who had
was absurd
us,
he
with the
I
poor
have
the
is
why
me
"
off
by
force." "What
other punish-
ment,"
inflicted
asked
in
?
upon you
" None," he
my
was enough
I
to
compromise me
wish to be re-instated in
in Sikhim.
my
sect
new English
it
political officer
has con-
and given
Lama
the
of Phodang,
now
politically
The view up
the
to
"Tungra"
we decided
12
AT LACHOONG
this
179
his visit to
pass
is
the
brief notice
by Hooker, of
it
more than
Our
getting
coolies
now got
quite
excited
at
the prospect of
in
preparing
if
their
snow-blindness.
affection,
The Tibetans
suffer a
good deal
from
get
this
them
coloured
band of
cloth,
as metal
is
so painfully cold.
The commonest
eye-preservers
consist
blacken their faces around the eyes and nose with dark
pigment.
the
This
latter practice is
followed
all
by
the
women
of
at Darjeeling
is
where there
is
said
to
their
lessen
and a
fell
i8o
way.
We
crossed the
the
having lately
flood,
built,
and a streamlet
village
poured over
bank, and as
we passed upwards,
wooden
balconies,
projecting eaves
and
and snowpeaks.
valley,
Ascending
we
way
where the
a
scarf,
Lama came
and received
in return
dotted here
Griffithii)
feet,
we
its
struck
steep
Here a species of
grows abundantly.
After a time, the track got lost in the rocky bed of the
stream, along which
we
picked our
way amongst
:
the great
avenues of magni-
we gained
i8i
and passed up through the pine forest oi Abies Dinnosa and the
silver-fir [^A
Webbiana,
in
Tibetan
"Dum
wood
Shook-
pa" of
of which
is
burnt as
HIMALAYAN LARCH.
incense in
the temples, and
is
the
"pencil-cedar" of com-
merce.
wood
conota),
Hooker
tells
hov/
these
last
when
the
cut
meat supply
in the
i82
we
we encamped
at
The
the
cessation
of trees was
not due to
any change
in
damp was
the
boggy
pine
soil,
that
we had
to
cut
down a
quantity of the
of a
stringy
forest to the
open
as a place
encampment
wind,
and the
especially
convenient
that
fire-place
which
tree-trunk
offers,
fire
of a
dead
tree.
They
kindle their
at
the
at the
by
the
fire,
acts
as
Some
but
for
rather
this
to
the
presence
stained
of luminous micro-organisms,
wood was
fungus.
intensely
cold,
the
thermometer
The
frost,
and the
ice spangles
We
started off in
RHODODENDRON MOORS
the crisp keen
air,
183
of yesterday.
fringed
stones.
The many
icicles,
we
crossed were
with
like a
highland
for
about two
around
us,
towers and
Through
deep
cleft
in
this
wall,
down
in a
string of cascades,
feet,
and here,
to
we decided
this
reached from
was
now
spot
our only
for
fuel.
headlong.
The
clifif
was
zagged
up
its
face,
no
bridle-path
could
easily
be
made here
for
mountain
artillery.
At
cloud
we had come,
to the
the
down
the
deep trough
silvery
Lachoong
river,
rose range
up
to
The contour of
latter
84
foreshortened southern
And
the cleft where the rushing stream wrestled with the rocks
that barred
its
(14,500 feet).
off,
On
185
so
sent on a
I
man
to report
the
pass,
and
cHfif
camp,
and found
it
to
snow overlying
oft"
loose shingly
of rock,
chipped
slid
by
the
frost,
and
which
down
this
ascent,
felt
great
eleva-
tion, for I
was now
height
Blanc,
about the
of
Mont
although
no
ice-
The
GIANT WILD RHUBARB.
exertion
short-
now caused
ness of breath,
and
faint
remained
The
symptoms
are caused
by a poison
the
air,
which
this
treeless
very
little
grass and
but
many
flowers.
i86
ing
of flowers
by Dame
Nature
in
such
warm woolly
Of these
the
most
striking
were
dium
Satissurea gossypiphora,
tion for their altars.
The
gion
is
{Rheum
nobile),
"^
the "
Chuka
"
of the
high and
the topmost
sentries
ranging up to 15,500
feet,
;
looked like
me
into
stalking
them
a possible
home,
here reproduce
photograph, the
graceful
first
The
incurving
its
tall
stem to protect
bunches of seeds
remarkable.
Its
its
leaves are as
No
trace
whatever could
here.
find
of the
glacier
which
Hooker places
The
it
line of perpetual
snow
is
uneven,
here descends
much
further
on the
187
holds.
This
is
evidently
once,
as
little
of their moisline
aver-
ft.
above the
sea-level,
and
ft.
comes
as
low as 15,000
ft.,
snow
ft.,
falls
but
ft.
seldom
lies
it
for
at 10,000
Though
now began
to
to drift over
me, and by
got
down
camp
all
The
tent
was
tied
in
to
could not
be used
We
spent the
sighted
some partridges
berries,
high
He came
to
me
is
the water
I
of this place
boiled the
very bad
It
will
have
more
boiled
starch
at
so
it
did not
to roast
burst
the
grains fully.
So
told
Achoom
i88
his
boil
them.
We
were now
in less
than a week,
it
also
to preserve
down
for
in stews, tasted
now
like
old Stilton.
We
to
started
the
pass
get
over the
frozen
snow before
it
began
to
thaw
in
the
sun.
the gorge,
we entered
peaks,
the
for
bold snowy
soon
reached
which
stretches
up
in
an
unbroken sheet
pass.
From
this
derived Tang-kar,
"The
to
On
the
way we had
the rarefied
frequently
air.
On
spirit
men
them
some
fine
The view
ceases
rises a
into
striking.
The snow
this
and beyond
fiery
welter
in
of Aden, but
set
The
cold was
much
This icy
blast,
sharp as
189
cut
faces,
flakes of
snow, hung
our temples
birds, like
from Tibet
much below
we were
told,
even eagles
feCt).
and
flight.
other
large
birds
often
drop
stone
dead
in
their
We
there
side, as
was no guard
to
Returning to the summit, we tried to boil a therto control the reading of our aneroid which gave
ft.,
mometer
as on the survey
map, but
igo
after
all
assiduous
trial
our fuel
all
as well as a large
and
This
in-
London makers,
It
is
is
its
purpose
in
such altitudes.
with
its
made
What
felt
is
needed
is
or other non-
by the wind.
It
would be interesting
know how
in
meters
Tibet,
and
S.
W.
on
their
authority.
a.
m.,
we found some
difficulty
we sank deeply
sun
heated up the
three
feet
temper-
ature to
Fah.
may
seem,
it
sometimes
We
has
but could
no trace whatever of
in
it.
There probably
for
it
placing
it
here,
would
TANG-KAR PASS
disappeared within forty years and yet have
trace
left
191
behind no
TRYING TO BOIL AN ALTITUDE THERMOMETER ON THE SUMMIT OF TANG-KAR PASS (l6,5oo fcCt).
the
snow-field
had already
its
in
these
few
hours
become
swollen to twice
size
At
(Fah.)
night
the
temperature
our tent
fell
four degrees
all
below
the
freezing-point,
and we needed
our
192
who
the shelter of
to our leeward,
where
sun
during the
day,
and
retain
it
much
The
after the
off.
high
unwonted
brilliancy.
sunrise,
by a strange
servants in
this
European voice
Hindoostani, "
my
Is
could
for
so
many
years
and
at such
a time,
hurried out to
find
stalwart
figure
leaning on
an alpenstock. Bidding
cleft,
me good
and
I
the pass.^"
and
and
replied that
it
lay over two miles higher up. " For," said he, "
my
aneroid,
which
16,000
pass."
his,
office, registers
my map
ft.
I
it
my
as
feet
under 14,000, which coincided with the results of our boilingpoint thermometer or hypsometer.
The
truth
is
that small
down
into the
suggested
might lead
awkward
political
complications,
193
as to
the present
moment on
gallant
Our
friend,
;
however,
troubles
so
clambered up the
cleft. I
and carried
Our canvas
air.
tent
in the crisp
it still
keen
After our
men had
it
the ropes,
stiff
remain-
ed standing, as
as a board with
And
fell
it
had
to be beaten with
the
roll
tent poles
it
and
sticks to
it
to the ground,
and
to
up.
The
down
into
return
hill.
to
Lachoong was
easy,
as
it
was
directly
On
arrival at
my
hand, addressed to
It
"The Doctor
travelling in
Upper
Sikhim".
implored
of his
was
to
in
I
from an unknown
at
correspondent, and
me
come
once to
Kedoom where
a friend
state.
was
dying
I
Anxious as
resist
fair
was
to push on
;
up the valley,
I
could not
such
an appeal
so although
day's
march
off
in
our
at
once started
down
the valley
on
foot, as
no pony could
13
194
be
The man
led
me
we had
in a
halted to eat
I I
some
apricots
room
met
my
correspondent
whom
last
dying condition. As a
I
resource
applied a few
rallied,
medicines that
He was
had
the Reverend
h,
weak
to
coming
the
hills
started
off to the
rarefied air,
We
back
to Darjeeling,
which
week's journey
fixed
intervening
his
So we
on a romantic spot
grave
their
last
found B.
sufferfelt
from
a
to
slight
cold
caught
for
on the pass.
days,
As he
disinclined
proceed
few
and we had
just
cloudy
sky presaged
passes,
day up the
Achoom
DEATH OF A FELLOW-TRAVELLER
with B., and arranged for letters to be forwarded on to
195
me
by runners.
in
Kintoop, of course,
and Tibetan
was rather
loth to
have
to take as
cook Rameses'
assistant,
who
a
rejoiced in the
title
name
of "
The
his
Mighty Ocean"
insatiable
{Gyatsho),
for
capacity
pilfering
stores;
could
to
ride
196
the
miles to
Yoomtang,
after
the
fatigues
of the
Httle
previous
day and
night.
My mount
at,
was a shaggy
The
passed
along,
Tibetan saddle at
I
comfortable.
track.
The owner
He was
the quaint
me
as
we went
we
passed.
One
of these was
a deserted
city,
when
this city
was
was the
size of
2,000 villages
inhabitant
monasteries.
city
One day an
of Tashilunpo
up a stone the
size
On
the
stone,
asked the
man about
it
it,
and on receiving
it
as a present,
he
carried
off
and deposited
in his
monastery.
Ever
rival
Lhasa, but
true, that
Ge has decayed.
loses
its
And
the
when Ge
POLYANDRY
talisman,
it
197
will
inside
left.
and
out.
Even
so
it
is.
Now
My
guide,
like
is
polyandrist.
posite of
This peculiar
Polyandry,
the
op-
polygamy,
whereby two
It
or three or
even existed
in
Great Britain
according to Caesar.
of the
lack
Its
what we know
be explained
is
"
It is
when
it
its
head
is
away
for
weeks,
herding the
cattle
and
is
also
viewed as a device to
keep the
common
Sikhim,
is
is
to say
And
the practice
is
that
if
the joint
wife
ries,
of
all
then
wife
is
common
and
to the elder.
An
exception to
however,
is
the present
now
is
The
children
The
family
are
therefore
somewhat complicated,
igS
especially
ladies
sometimes
happens,
some of these
are the
happy possessors of
we picked
our
way amongst
fine
rugged valley
Then we zigzagged up a
rocky
track
Yak
which
the
usual
stage
for
up from
grazing-station.
Beyond
this
we passed through
magnificent
pine
forest
tints
of
many
crystal streamlets
ft),
we reached
said to
where there
rises
is
be
a detached
sheer,
like
a pulpit,
we came
whole
to
The
side
of a
great
mountain,
left,
that
had broken
;
and
many
miles
with
its
of sight,
ing from
borders.
these fallen
rocks had thrust the river to the opposite side of the valley,
over a
mile
out of
its
course,
and had
dammed up
its
This
is
common way
in
in the
AN AVALANCHE OF ROCKS.
201
Lepcha
in the
to,
and
and the
Tals
And
outfall
no rocky barriers
I
in
situ,
sudden disappearance
myself witnessed
how
this
occurred
in
when
travelling in the
1882.
On
through the
outfall
dam
of
Bhim
away
Tal,
down
when
I
its
level
had
fallen
twenty
its
bed a muddy
see [vide
plain.
illus-
High above
tration)
still
we could
that
and no human
cattle.
have been
lost,
My
guide said
spirit
of
the
mountain,
for
some offence
this offence
that
though as to what
was opinions
much.
its
to
be a weathered
frost,
granite,
and
fall
of the rock,
dynamite
it,
with
as there are
some hot
off.
202
Clambering
great
field
of rock
It
like
a vast
grew darker
and wilder.
the
our track
wound along
the pleasanter
wooded bottom of
the
river bank.
up
into
many
islets.
In this
maze of
tracks
my
of marking the
trail
by a handful of
cut twigs.
one so marked
is
choose.
If laid crosswise
(in
way."
A
far
hot spring
its
position
it.
It
it
we had
water,
by a slippery
log-bridge.
The hot
the
granite
rocks
at
an elevation of 11,730
ft.
At
the
been
excavated,
against
and
this
rain.
was
roofed
over
as
protection
snow and
was
As
to
comer
considered
get the
it.
best of
all
it.
Here he
For
my
men, notwithin
it,
standing tnc
cold, quickly
stripped and
bathed
and
203
me
ing
also to
do
likewise. But
up the
hill
and
which though
not
deemed
The water
some
and
collected
chemical analysis.
'"
The
white
sulphury
clots,
and
in
this
The tempeis
only
The
and the
who
who
causes
disease
if
is
They
spring
day
whereas
to
is
think
so,
the
the
spring
colder
and the
morning
mid-day
less
marked than
difficulty
in in
had considerable
getting
my men away
this,
from
Above
the
valley
presented
a remarkably
weird
204
fungus,
setting
reminded one somewhat of the banks of that Hadestop of the Geirangerfiord in Norway.
And
A
ot
It
is
Yoomtang
with
its
beautifully situated in an
the river
winds with
many
on every
side are
selected
for
my
empty
log-huts, as
down the
valley
and
my men
hood,
stag,
all,
saw a
called,
fine
"Sikhim"
so
though
Tibet,
is
but
only
I
in
whence
horns
I
had been
sighted in
brought.
the
My
see
flock
of the
red-billed
(or
common crow
of Tibet.
The
cold
at
at
night was
sunrise the
thermometer registered
YOOMTANG AND
3 Fah. of frost, while at 8
ITS
it
GLACIERS
205
a.m.
Next day
crossed
the
"Lachoong"
by a rude
of the
Yoomtang
I
log-bridge.
valley
for
Thence
about a
ascended
the
eastern
side
YOOMTANG AND
thousand
feet,
ITS YAKS.
to the foot of
ft.,
is
perhaps
the
the
Himalayas.
On
the
northern
slopes
their
position
is
much
although
the
rainfall
is
much
less.
The southern
to allow of
2o6
rainfall.
Here
shot
vivicold),
Roylei),
limit
of trees, about
13,000
Many
logs
where timber
to
is
extremely scarce.
Here we halted
for
little,
carry up
river,
our
own
firewood.
The
now
the
cataracts.
and several
came down
black
its
sides, as well
its
crags to
south.
They were
and
green crevasses,
and
feet of us.
And
it
was
the
valley
may be
;
in part
owing
to the
is
is
still
considerable as far as
is
is
207
slowly
down
on
us.
nearer
rarefied air
began
to tell sorely
Even
pony
to
a great
part
way; but
all
men who
carried loads,
attacked
more or
less
severely.
All
of us
had
splitting
we
had
to
rest
frequently
by the way
is
for
the shortness of
breath,
graphically described
by Hooker
feeling
of
"
hoop of
iron
cannot explain
why
we were
this place
all
so
much more
affected
by
than by the
much
2o8
As we plodded
fusely
at
men
bled pro-
the nose.
We
the
were
all
in a sorry plight as
we
and struggled
(15,000
ft.).
into
is
Momay
This
and
it
is
so inclement that
is
weeks during mid-summer by the hardy mountaineers. These deserted, weather-beaten huts are
built of
rough
had
to pitch
my
The
tent
flat
it
was
bitterly cold.
roof consisted
down
by big
boulders.
after
few minutes
my
arrival,
Kintoop came
to
me
with some alarm in his face, to say that the captain of the
(the
men were
to prevent us proceeding
any
further.
still
the
door of
my
man
(or
riding
'
be the captain
forward,
accept-
my
ance;
and on
if
it
my
taking
it
who he
was, and
asked
that
I
my men On learn-
my
intention,
he endeavoured to dissuade
me
209
to
was impossible
reach the pass now, as snow had fallen two days ago, and
driven
him and
his
men down
and certainly
their faces
found him
quite reasonable
his
and
civil.
He
men being on
I
and he
said
that of course
could go
it
pass
but that
that
was
his
duty to prevent
me from going
beyond
that
I
point
He
maintained
the
told
him
some
eight
beyond the
me
to cross this
way
into the
Lachen
as
in the reverse
direction.
He
at
maintained,
the
everyone except
tomime, the old story, that were we to force our way across,
the
throats
men would be
felt
cut.
Under
ordinary circumstances
force
would have
much
inclined to
it
my way
I
over
I
it
into the
Lachen
valley,
where
I
was
so
essential
that
should
arrive
it
;
quickly,
and
have no
doubt that
negotiations
2IO
extracted from
therefore
had
forego
He had
and he
is
figured
I
in
the
group,
copy of which
in
shewed him.
little
He had
also
our
of a
command
small
some
on that occasion, he
Mongolian
stolidity
and
as he
how
our quick-firing
could
fire
'
about a
flint-lock
fire.
missed
My
shot-gun
interested
him
greatly.
He
handled
it
lovingly,
and
as
in astonishment,
"Why,
it
''
and
own
rust.
certainly
it
was even
in this respect,
a contrast to their
as they
honeycombed
its
were with
But
it
was
my
revolver, with
quick-repeating mechanism,
that interested
him most,
as this
rifle,
was a
special
weapon of
its
war.
my
on account of
it.
weight,
expected of using
He
asked
me
211
show
I
its
working by
firing
at
some of
his straggling
sheep.
so
fired
could
instead
quick
succession
of shots
into
some
logs
of wood,
man scampered
off
how deeply
My
He
presented
me
with a
Tibetan mutton,
nutty sweetness.
though small,
is
At
Kintoop's suggestion
offered
I
him a
little
of
my
in
restora-
lessness
and
palpitation.
He
promptly produced
cup from
his
breast pocket,
to
with
immense
relish,
the
dregs
little
though he magnanimously
the
pretended to leave a
in
cup
for his
men, who
passed the empty cup round from hand to hand, and each
of
them Hcked
it
more than
clean, with so
much smacking
that
and poured a
little
more of
cup
for,
for
for his
men
spirits
in their
own
country. Their
212
usual alcoholic
the
is
made from
seeds
into
fermented
vessels,
barley
and
strained
from
the
and drunk
(in
viurwa of Sikhim.
arak
is
Jaesche says
distilled
in monasteries,
and
in the
is
men
in
Tibet;
but
this
am
assured
spirit is
Chinese,
and
it
when
served
up to grandees
at
in the
{Dong) like the Urus horns which the ancient Germans used
as
And
mounted
in silver or brass
the
shoulder
when
travelling.
The Bhotanese
How
by
his
in
environments.
Though
is
many
and
full
full
tends to
with
all
bully,
name of Tartar
storms
{Tartaros,
hell)
suggests.
his
The
disastrous
herds and
scanty
213
him
maHg-
become
intensely superstitious
and
and perpetuating
made him
many
have
due
doubtless
to
education
and
which permeates
said
to
their religion.
As
lands,
in
mountain
air.
They
nor even
skilful
their priests.
The presence
into
of these Tibetan
officials
cowed
my men
uncommunicativeness.
that
The
latter
tortures
would be
inflicted
on them as informers, by
off to
when
they do not hesitate to do, they simply cut off their ears
or
foot,
and
set the
mutilated person
free.
majority of the
beggars,
In
am
told, in
particular,
my
guide,
214
away with
his
pony,
but was
caught
my
men.
I
And
gave the
my
men, and
locked away
As
it
was now
could
not force
my way beyond
into the
my
only
way
Lachen
valley.
And
took
my men
in the
afternoon to explore
Crossing
heavily
snowed
"The Great
Beard-
ed Glacier" (22,550
glacier of Phaloong,
for
we went up
the
wild
of Seeboo
about
and small
glacier noted
by Blanford,
lakelets,
to
barren
up to the pass.
The
The stony
winds,
waste, bare of
in
all
and buried
snow
months of the
215
all
high.
laya
at
The
root
of this
word
is
the
same which
the
German Himmel,
Aryan "heaven";
for these
snowy regions
PASS.
heave7t-\x^''
part
the
So
we
seemed
death.
to
not of
The
besides
ourselves
living thing,
animal or vegetable.
the
The
sighing
of the
wind, and
2i6
river,
and ran
calm
The
loneliness
whosois
delighted
and absolutely,
is
And
in
it
easy to see
how
the Tibetans,
who
them with
sullen
thunderbolts,
and
death-dealing
deified
weapons.
Just
so
have
the
Scandinavians
of nature.
the
terrible
aspects
So
their
natural
in
and so
far
support Professor
in its origin
Max
was
mythology
physical, whatever
ments.
We
one
to
guide us.
These,
was
told,
than those
we
who
in
appearance,
My men
having seen
{Ovis naturd).
One
219
Blanford,
and
in
regard to
which the
the
'
writes
'
"
We
subsequently
found
that
all
Ovis
;
ammon
that he
of which
I
we heard
so much, were
Burhel
in
and
Hooker,
think,
supposing
neighbourhood,
for,
by the
unanimous evidence of
Kongra-Lamo
little
passes, although
north, in
further
Tibet."
also
saw some
tail-less
rats or
marmots.
These small
mammals
called GooDicher
think,
to
the
habits
of these
live,
animals
accordthat
the
Tibetans,
the
dragon-spirits
to this
or
Nagas
cause
tives
thunder-storms.
will
Owing
in
assist
you
rob
it
not scruple
grain
to
of
hoards of stored
grass and
fodder.
I
in
need
of fuel
or
elegaiis),
it
was
hitherto
river
of
life,
down
tadpoles and
Plants,
hill sides, in
the
crevices
Mr.
220
peculiarity
the
fact
vegetation
is
of high altitudes
in
Europe,
and on
or
this
dicotyledons
originated
absence
of well-developed
their late
Exogens
in
the
tropical coal-period,
in
and
the
cooler times
of the
cretaceous
when
the
of geological
the
destroyed by denudation of
are grasses, crop
uplands.
up
The
especially
on the southern
slopes of the
Himalayas
is
"some
now
of
to
be found only on the southern side of the Alps," as M. de Candolle has shown.
^'^
The
is
also remarkable.
Many
down
are
become blue
on pressing. This
of their
petals,
there,
due to the
The temperature
of the
air at 5
221
sunset went
down
to 28 Fah.,
to
in
valley
visit
becoming blocked,
lower valley,
as
to the
down
to
below Yoomtang.
We
cold,
all
passed a wretched
night,
owing
to the intense
air.
rise in
the rarefied
My
all
my
sheepskin-coat over
keep
;
me
from shivering
cold wind
ed
my
breathing.
it
do not believe
so
my
heart
is
a bad
one,
but
now
palpitated
violently
as to shake
my
beats
and
at times
it
seemed
as if about to cease
in
altogether.
hill,
walking up
the
beats
went up
to
100 or no.
lessened,
These alarming
and the heart
to
accommodated
and thin
air,
in
some measure
the
altered
at
in
altitude.
these
regions
and
at
higher
elevations for
it
some months,
was
to
go a few miles
pressure,
and he
And
he experienced
suf-
fered so
little
Sikhim complained
of the "very
222
To
on our
only
circula-
tion,
carefully
recording
not
my own
pulse-beats
several
selected
at various stages
on the way up
be
worth
detaiHng.
little
difference
of
the
higher altitudes
in
and
seemed due
part to
the
work
and
cold.
As
Freshfield
somewhat comparable
are affected
sea-sickness,
who
more
In
the
morning,
as
the
it
lay
only
pass.
frost,
at sunrise registered 8 of
Fah.,
it
my
shrivelled-up
for starting.
The Tibetan
soldiers fortified
No
would have
The
led
track
mounds of
bank,
stones,
and
across
the
to
the
left
and
re-crossed
feet
223
near
The Tibetan
his
men accompanied
us,
and as
far
yak clam-
outdistancing
I
my
yak.
pony, which
little
slid
it,
could
make
use of
me
It,
however, refused to
me
plunges at
me
as
approached
its
nose-ring.
it,
And
had
failed to
mount
for
cooking-pots and
pans,
the saddle.
Some
track,
of the hairy
eternal
is
wild
men who
amongst the
lions,
white
whose roar
The
universal
I
among
Tibetans.
have interrogated
me
it
an authentic case.
On
so-
most
superficial
investigation
These
men
know
it
224
such
atmosphere
ready
of
find extraordinary
uncommon
events.
Looking
thought
heat of
to get
of the
in the sweltering
the Calcutta
Snow now
fell
heavily,
fast obliterating
out, there
way and
sharing the
late
his
former
master, the
Captain Harman,
1881.
This
and on ascending
great
this
pass,
he saw
as seen
by Hooker
in detail
he
baggage-coolies did
We
now found
had increased
fine
the
wind rose
furiously,
us,
and a whirlwind of
snow, bHnding
and choking
Then
realized
that Sherwill
date
in
of starting; that
late
the
season
and that
for
reach
their
leisurely
one must
The scene
that
bursts
crest of
GAME
this
IN TIBET
225
pass
(18,100
ft.),
has
Sir
Joseph Hooker.
is
one of the
Cholamo
is
in front,
beneath
of
cannot appreciate.
The
total
of the
if
no
longer
seen
clear
Tibetan side of
three
included
perfectly
God
or Ra-gao) the
live
Tibetan sand-grouse.
He was
Ovis Ainuion
common
is
country north of
the
the
Goa Antelope
less
so
Tibetan antelope
Kemas Hodgsoni)
;
neighbourhood
The name
Yak", and
yak (Dong)
of this pass,
a legend that
find,
means
to
was related
me
name.
15
226
The
Ding-pon and
his
down by
the snowreturn to
Momay,
to give
as the storm
and
also
to retreat further
down
to
Yoomtang.
The Ding-pon
Lachoong
sheep,
wood and
his frontier,
but
it
was probably
to see us off
slip.
On
fine
the
way
to
followed up the
river
for
glacier
valley
or
"Cold"
from
its
excessive
this
No European seems
and as
I
to
have been up
valley before:
had heard
and the Tang-kar passes, was seldom used and never guarded, and
I
was arranging
I
to
make an
expedition to Lhasa in
to reconit
disguise,
noitre
and explore
in
Tang
pass.
this line
As
the
position
I
of the
Gora pass
is
maps,
give here
some
and a sketch of
227
His directions
may be
taken as
generally approximate, as
he
and
his
'
a distance
of
seven days
hard march
for
in Tibet,
Sikhimese frontier
as to his
thirteen
days.
There
is
no doubt
Crossing
village
the
Lachoong
name, and
river,
i^/^
miles
above
the
of that
about
was found
its
third mile to
limit of trees,
The
freezing torrent,
which spouted
from an
had to be forded.
A
to
whom
that
Gora
pass,
declared
forbidden
by
into Tibet,
and he bolted
off.
The
river
above
this
flowed
lateral
moraine
for
about
miles,
above which
of these
it
divided into
to
two headwaters.
The southern
into
led
the
two
lakes,
and
just
uppermost of these,
below
tlie
summit of the
pass, the
snow was
failing in
228
avalanches
June.
its
is
not marked in
lakes, lies
about
pass,
according to
open,
herd-girl
it
whom
Kintoop met.
used
was
not then
but
was
occasionally
the
if
by the
account
people of that
of
its
valley;
whereas
Gora,
on
steepness,
ever used.
The
from
northern
the
branch
of
which
came
down
to
lead up to a grazing-
station,
This disease,
pest.
is
rinder-
It
had
and
'^^
also
known
where
it
It
was believed
to
formation
as
to
the
passes, even
when Kintoop
said that
fol-
So he
The
feet elevation,
commanded an
north-east-
Thence proceeding
had
that
to
go a
little
cliffs
rose over 4,000 feet high, and they had to cross tor-
rents
and
spurs,
till
in
Western Choombi.
Rido
river,
229
of about
On
at
away
them
of the
The headman
them
wore Tibetan
dress,
and
suspecting them
be
spies,
seized
them
and stripping
their clothes,
imprisoned them in
off to Phari
house,
saying that he
The name
pak-tang
Kala-tso,
to
and
resembled the
his party
and
fled
pass.
I
The
with
the
returned past
at the
Kedoom,
its
sad memories,
valley.
to
Choong-tang
bottom of
Lachoong
The
foliage
the
valley,
showed
summer
The
leaves
be swept
off
by
CHAPTER
VI
By
boiling Zemoo's silver sheen, Travelled till they the torrent crossed At Tallum Samdong hard in frost And Tungu deep in snow.
And
Down
And
movement paced,
swordsmen's weapons glanced As Kamba's chieftain grave advanced The mystic Chorten past. C. Macaulay's Lay of Lachen.
Back
Lama's
at
invitation to put
up
in his
monastery.
It
commanded
though
over-topped
by snowy
peaks.
The animals
in
were found by
in the
Mr.
Blanford to
Lachoong.
being much
This
less
The broken
barred
all
231
The
latter's
visit
was even
after
still
later
in
the
season than
at
the
bridges
were repaired
great cost,
and
after
some
to
managed
to push
on
Giagong (15,764
at
the
foot
of the Kongra-lamo
have already
feat
Its
leader
achieved
the
diplomatic
of
opening
communication
for
between
India
government,
Hastings,
the
first
time since
the days of
Warren
over a
He
Lay
at
has related
the
circumstances
up
this
valley,
and
his
officials,
in his
of Lachen
the foot of
in
the
snow
Chomiomo
(22,385
feet)
eastern slopes
we had
tells
just crossed.
His ballad
how
to nearly full had grown Ere they the frontier cold and lone Did reach, where wind-swept Giagong Lies white and chill and drear 'Twixt Kanchen-jow and Chomiom.
The moon
No man
or beast
may make
his
home
The day was waning, and the Of Chomiomo paler grew, As sank the sun into the west
crest
And
The
hoar between.
232
still
no sound
Was heard the silent snow drift round Of coming footsteps, and no light Of lantern or of torch did peer
Across the waste of gleaming white
To
At length that awful night was past, No more they shuddered 'neath the blast; The morning smiled across the wild.
And
fast,
And
fair
Was
But
this
Tibetan
official,
the
Jong-pon or Commander
to
of the adjoiningcoerced.
fort
of
be readily
He
official
message
so.
whatever, Mr. M.
fact
that
Tibetan
to receive
if
any
the Jong-
pon refused
on to the
person.
to
receive
his
capital,
last
Tashi-lunpo,
alternative
message
for
in
This
the
233
Now, however,
bridges
restrained
as
we were by
the broken
dark
vistas of this
Lachen
to
accomplish
our
projected
glaciers,
journey
thence
through
over
it
the
unexplored
glaciers
Zemoo
the
eastern
of Kanchen-junga,
and
back by rocky
T6-loong.
political
Mr.
White,
for
who commanded
opening
the
the
resources of the
Sikhim
bridges.
State
roads
and
building
the
He went
by To-
by Mr.
beautiful
Hoffmann,
to
whom
am
photographs
of the
glaciers
en route,
the
clear
end
June
1891,
weather
of July.
The
ten
to
by Mr. Hoffmann,'*
the
Zemoo
glacier,
.
valley (the
"Thlonok"
from
great
writes
which
a
descends
Kanchen-junga.
He
" After
at
glacier
distinct
height
in
13,800
ft.
caves
the
ice.
The
234
ft.
immense mass of
valley. ...
It
ice rested
on
were continually
falling
from the
to
glacier.
We
the
and
its
surmount-
of 16,000
cleared
time,
ft,
"the mist
for a short
away
Himalayas, marked
chum." Continuing
ascent to 17,000
ft.,
their
they
day
''to
cross
the
the
glacier,
intending
to
strike
rock
not
far
from
foot
of
Kanchen-junga.
almost
glaciers
in
The
Kanchen-junga
straight
and
is
fed
by many minor
to the north
of
it.
We
counted
dozen
glaciers
on
one occasion,
ft.
We
a
to
To
the
south-west was
gap
range of 19,300
still
ft.
reach was
a long
way
p.m.,
235
For the
first
time
we
west.
"To
south
Sim-vovon-chum
(2I,000 FT.).
crater
filled
with snow.
a
ft.
gap
the range,
with
wavy
and a magnificent
.
. .
neighbourhood we
visited
narrow
We
counted here
different slopes,
some
236
a jagged
wall
of
ice.
The
rays
of the sun
caused the
masses of
ice to
act like
huge prisms,
reflecting the
most
gorgeous colours." Mr. White then followed up the Lanok (" Thlonok
"J valley
ft.),
(17,590
ft.).
NANGNA PASS
(l7,590 FEET),
EASTERN
SIDE.
CHAPTER
THROUGH
BRITISH
VII
BHOTAN TO DARJEELING
In returning from
long,
I
Choong-tang to the
capital,
Toompre-
came
across
They
by throwing
a
bonfire
;
into
it
in
ablutions with
marked improvement
complexions.
.f*
So who
all,
will
now say
Bhotiyas
distaste
After
these
and
for
Tibetans
have
but
perhaps
no
constitutional
cleanhness;
zero,
or
below
and
bather
Boreas
is
blowing
to
keenly,
even the
to
most
constant
apt
desert
allegiance
his tub.
The number
prisingly
large,
of snakes
found
sur-
though
this
owing
240
to
been
specially
on the outlook
for
them,
ever since
home
in
my
spirit-bottle.
Many
of them
were not
poisonous,
and the
gliding
most
common were
slender iridescent
foliage,
whip-snakes,
several
gracefully
brightly
through the
and
species
of
" keel-
(Bungarns
was sunning
little
sitnis monticola)
The
Fierce Slowaptly
it
going
scribes
One"
its
f^'
title
that
de-
character;
most
it
vipers,
can
only
move very
have a wholesome
fear of snakes,
all
of
them
are
poisonous,
too,
I
a very
safe-working
Such
gorgeous spiders
resplendent
giant
size,
in
brilliant
and rnetaUic
in
blue,
;
and of
their
spread
and
to
catch
small birds,
on
Few
venomous customers
to tackle.
The number
at a very
I
by what
THROUGH
to
BRITISH
BHOTAN TO DARJEELING
berries
241
spinach; wild
fruits,
yams and
other roots;
mushrooms and
several
when near
the
village,
near
home
Europe.
But
had
to
be on
my
my
Achoom's absence.
pods of beans, which
For
I
at
At
one
of
the
poor
hamlets
which
we
passed,
Bhotiya offered
me
a domestic
ordinary rate, and he would not abate the price one whit;
"for,"
said
he,
who
is
and
demand, "this
the
last
fowl
in
this
part
of Sikhim," as
all
I
the
troops
had eaten up
This,
the
fowls
ascer-
tained
was
much
longer distances.
to
and crossing
where
it
by a good
we
struck
new
I
bridle-road,
my pony was
waiting; and
then
to
Gangtok, or
"The Crown
of the
Ridge"
16
242
(5,090
an oasis of civihzation
tennis-court,
rows of
a small force
police,
a newly opened
telegraph-station
Its wire,
that
connects us again
got a welcome
article
budget of
of diet that
been deprived
civihzation
for
some
weeks.
Another
sign
of
we met
pink-turbaned
rule.
Marwari,
who
has
come under
the
wing of our
hills
Bamboo Hamlet",
held
It
was
of
life
and
it
bustle, the
Beyond
this,
on our
way down
by the
rich
worked
Nepalese
(or
;
Darjeeling,
to
Lachmi Das
in a
me
where,
mines, the
Lamas
Phodang and
monks of
THROUGH
BRITISH
BHOTAN TO DARJEELING
243
felling in ac-
form settlements,
by
out
the
land
these
on
easy
terms
to the
Hindooized
settled
Nepalese.
peasantry,
Bhotiyas,
For
as
latter
make an
excellent
who
good
cultivators,
in
cash.
To
preserve
Bhotiyas,
from
being
swept
away
altogether
by these
the
fertile
the
formations
for
the Lepchas
down
in
the
hot
coincide
generally
with
the
limestones
and
schist
while the
some
were
most tempting
manner.
Thence
past
some
silvery-barked giant
Gurjun
we
entered British Bhotan and climbed under the old Bhotanese fort of
Damsang, perched on
ft.),
its
knife-edge
cliff,
up
to to
Pedong (4,780
situated
of the
244
who was
Government
ratified.
;
He had
many
crossed
the
frontier
several
days previously
but
stragglers
were
still
laden with
I
all
sorts
and
sizes
amongst which
noticed
several
cases of
oil,
provisions, kerosine
pots
and geraniums,
said to
At Pedong
Desgodins,
the
Roman
Catholic missionary,
who
for
over
on the
borders
who
on the Indian
under the
British flag
and
on the high
ants,
road to Tibet,
with
a small staff of
assist-
carrying
for
on
educational
work,
and
lithographing
traders.
tracts
distribution
One
of these
entirely to this
humanizing work, to
them
little
they
work without
in
Europe.
results
It
is
pity
for
that
striking
to
show
all
their labours.
Yet
it
is
THROUGH
individuals
BRITISH
BHOTAN TO DARJEELING
245
spirits,
And
who regard
same mingled
feelings of reverence
and
''
Soggarth aroon",
,_
_
_
the song
"Who
Soggarth aroon,
When
Soggarth aroon,
Came to my cabin door, And on my earthen floor Knelt by me sick and poor,
Soggarth aroon
/^
Kalim-pong,
ridge,
twelve
station,
nearer to
Darjeeling,
is
also a mis-
sionary
of the
whom
a considerable
settled here.
was
own
vernacular.
" the Governor's hold ",
dis-
name means
trict,
now
of
".
For
this
tract
from Pedong
in
to the plains,
1865 as
and
for the
246
on us therewith.
generally
known
is
east of Sikhim.
people,
who
Lamas
their
country
the
Sikhim,
wettest
of the
all
rain
clouds,
and
is
by
far the
portion
of
the
Himalayas.
Our
military post
THROUGH
stands
further
BRITISH
BHOTAN TO DARJEELING
247
east at
boo Bridge."
notoriously
their
and
turbulent.
They
are
held
control
called
by by
Deb Rajah
as he
make
other,
And he
should keep
who
can.
As
into
these
predatory
carrying off
into slavery
government
inflicted a variety of
effect.
And when
satisin-
in
factory
sulted,
we annexed
this part
of Bhotan, as well as a
hills
large
ject
strip
in
up
to
Assam, subtribes to
the
This
mountainous
tract,
however,
had previously
be-
and
this
is
Kalimpong crowns an
open,
cultivated
spur.
It
has a
248
much
Several
other improvised
They
Chinese
silk,
brick-tea,
borax and
salt.
These
sheep.
And
and
other
European manufactures
tobacco,
indigo, rice,
sugar,
pearls, glass
It
is
curious
that
the
brick tea
is
brought
all
the
way from
the most
difficult
in the world,
from
Yet,
it
is
And
although
Tibetans prefer
this
stuff to
the
it.
good
ceptionally
pony.
like
would have
the
who
be-
that
the
horse
it
was
ancestor
though
is
Kyang)
THROUGH
BRITISH
BHOTAN TO DARJEELING
flesh is
249
whose
riot
esteemed a dehcacy
all.
striped or brindled at
Many
but
as
tips
fully
one.
It
had a black
nose and
stripes
tip
down
of the
ears,
of
the
tail
had
legs,
broad
black
over
shoulders,
and
So suggestive
of a tiger were
the
natives.
markings that
it
it
And
me
about
like a
pet dog.
still
The
inhabitants
in con-
siderable
proportion
Bhotanese.
These
differ
in
appear-
both
pigtails,
but shave
of the
usual
Chinese hats.
They
by
" [IJo-Dook-
pa),
own
as
their
spiritual
Bhotan, the
so-called
his
Dhanna-
(or reHgious)
^^
Rajah", as
opposed to
mentioned.
The Lepchas
which
Here
or
at
Kalimpong
sect of
is
Dook-pa
Lamas.
to
cross
the
Teesta
250
river,
The
river here
above the
river
sea,
and
in this
was
a fine
flowing
swiftly,
it
but
much
less
tumultuously
than where
we
it
crossed
by
Here
and
we
crossed
by an elegant
right
for
passed up
its
bank,
arched our
Great
the
path
about a mile, to
Rang-eet
river
the
so
called
" Marriage-place
of
tell.
Rivers",
the
of the
Here
crooked
Rang-eet
joins
its
the
straight-going
the foliage
till
of
far
its
banks,
below
their meeting-place.
These
two
differently
coloured
for
streams
flow side
by
side in the
some hundred
yards.
The Teesta
colder.
Along
forest,
till
the
Rang-eet,
our path
led
us
through lovely
crossed
first
it
we reached
we had
to our
in
the
canoe,
day's
Many
much
we passed were
shrivelled
up with a rusty
blight.
The
tea-planters suffer
in this
way by having
of Nature,
growth,
in
and substituting
tea.
only
one kind of
plant,
namely
as
Thus the
moulds,
and mites,
well
as
finding
THROUGH
BRITISH
BHOTAN TO DARJEELING
tea,
253
One
is
of the
the
quito-bhght",
It is
sucker,
and sucks up
Another and
all
is
caused by a mite
known
as
"red-spider",
and gaseous,
great
swarm of
(7th
we rode up
in
next day
November)
Darjeeling.
air,
They came
such clouds as to
roads,
places.
trees
darken the
and
fields
everywhere,
in
and the
in basket-
for
food,
as
they
ate
them
like
relish.
So
it
insects,
that
formed the diet of John the Baptist, and not the bean-pods
of the same name; for the locusts thus swarming up from
India were the Egyptian species [Acridiuni peregrinum and
few A.
Succinctiun)
said,
when
salted, to
afterwards
learned
noticed
of locusts
of Sind
off,
was
first
in
June 1889,
in the
miles
where they
and the
flights
of
254
these
spread in myriads in
all
directions,
way
to the
Punjab
in the south,
and
to
so pre-
the
out to
way
in
were
They
stripping
did
little
damage
in
many
even
They
penetrated
Tibet.
trustworthy
traveller told
me
that the
dead
ft.)
deep
many
in the
miles.
And,
curiously, a plague
was predicted
Lama
A LOCUST (A.
Natural
succintiim).
size.
CHAPTER
VIII
TO THE EASTERN PASS OF THE JELEP, AND THE SCENE OF THE LATE WAR
No
come from far Tibet, the mystic land no tidings yet For many a month are sent; No more the tinkling bells ring clear On Lingtoo's heights, by Bedden's mere, On Jelep's pass no step resounds,
travellers
From
No smoke
at
From weary
C. Macaulay's
Lay of Lachen.
As
spring,
in the
on the
Pekin.
direct overland
trade-route
by way of Lhasa
to
This,
too,
was
many
traces
were
still
visible.
An
the
Jalapahar,
with
its
white
barracks
of the military
256
to
Jor-bungalow, or
"The Two
Cottages
month previously
new
Like
the
their
new year
life
spring,
when
has pass-
ed away,
energies
fusion of
reawakening
delightfully
exhibited
in
the
of Rang-iroon, that
we now
,
damp
This magnificent
forest,
that
once
covered
Darjeeling
and
its
sur-
rounding
since
hills;
Hooker's
It
stretches
for
several hundreds of
less continuously,
it
for
about ten
and
the undergrowth.
Some
in the
beds of
that
fills
their crevices,
are to
17
RANGIROON FOREST
orchids (Pleurothalis
plants,
etc.)
259
but
even
with
large
a
evergreens
(Vaccinia
etc.)
variety
the blaze
blossoms
just
of the
for
Magnolia
the
forest
first
Canipbelli,
a tree
which
Here,
high,
has
in
flowered
it
time
in
Europe.
feet
its its
home,
is
monarch over 80
and
huge
flowers,
below,
leaves.
appear curiously on
bare branches
before
its
White magnolias
also
abound,
scenting
the air
high
sixty
are
common, and
are so
numerous that
this forest
over
species
may be
found along
road
The glimpses
foreground,
the
of the
snows,
framed
vistas
comprised
left
deep
of the
Rang-eet,
and
to
our
Darfas-
jeeHng
in the
And we
we were on
of march held
by our
After
clearings
to Darjeeling,
clan,
we emerged
26o
in
rest-house,
with
its
zig-zags, led us
through the
Jungle
",
"The Giant-bamboo
bamboo (Dendroin
the
Lepchas with
and
cooking-pots.
at
Further
feet
in
down we
about 4,000
house (3,300
ft.)
we heard again
the cicad insects, and the subdued roar of the great river
below.
stalked
serpents,
curious
type of
tree, the
cycad, which
some-
what between a
fern,
The
to
On
the Sal
woods
to the tropical
forest
bordering the
we
which
the
species
found
in
these
hills
are
At
710
now
only
above the
sea,
climate
banks thus
far within
261
We
we
Here,
this
springing
that
up
since
the
military
traffic
has
followed
that
our
little
And now we
realized
we were on
in
of communications
of a small
army
the
field.
detachments
coolies, laden
of troops
of transport
The mouth
trains
of the
bridge
of transport
bullock-carts
avoid the
needless
cHmb up
of
carts
to
and
descent
from
DarjeeHng.
great
The
block
here
was
especially
been
no
only
for
foot-passengers,
it.
cart
could
cross
and the
together
bits
and
reloaded
at
the
other
side
all
of which
traffic at this
narrow throat
neck"
remarkable.
Most of the
and whilst
to
disfiguring
rest-house,
swelling;
I
was
at breakfast at
the
was surprised
262
goats
domestic
place
fowls,
as
well
as
some of the
ponies
villagers
swellings.
The
blamed
particular
which they said gave goitre to every one who drank that
water.
is
stone-rocks
crop
out
hereabouts
but
had already
montane
of iron,
blood,
plains,
contained in addition to
lime an excess
this
large
vascular
for
and
on
At the entrance
the
to the bridge a
eye.
It
bridge
are
not
to
keep step."
And
along the
bridge
were
tied
countless
parti-coloured
streamers
and
Tibetan passengers
to
the
spirits
of the water.
these
flags
for
my museum,
and
as curios
had
free, gratis
for nothing.
Once
we were again
in British
Bhotan.
Kalimpong we followed
at first the
last visit
new
here,
cart
road
after
but
we took
to
is
rising over
3,000 feet
in five
miles,
Our troops
in
found
it
especially
trying
263
On
that
occasion one
after toiling,
of the
said to
have exclaimed,
feet
under
broiling
sun,
up some 2,000
table-\2itid,
in
two
we
are
cHmbingl"
after several miles of hot shadeless
Beyond Kalimpong,
road,
we
rose
into
some
grateful
forest at Rissisoom, or
"The
and
Spring of Water
",
where there
is
Lama
temple,
we reached
again Pedong, and encamped not far from the French missionaries
'
Tibetan,
resin
its
name
to this village.
The
of this tree
Lama
temples of Tibet.
It
found
in the
ground
at the foot
in large
masses, often
it is
40
is
cubic inches in
exactly.
size,
but
how
produced
not yet
known
Pedong
sariat
now
for
depot
cost
Sikhim.
The
mere
in
for
this
little
this
All the
for
was
brought
of the
from
the
Indian
plains,
hills,
it
and
the
greater
carried
part
had
to
be
by mules and
The
is
one
to
264
shilling
number of
of coolies
days.
In this
way
these thousands
in a
few
And
came along
heaps of rupees
sight to see
changing hands;
and
it
was no uncommon
up rupees and
other,
sight
solid
and sound of
new-found treasure.
for all this
Yet what
enormous
outlay
From
cents,
there,
several
as-
and again
final
further descents
awaited us ere
we
reached the
although
the
map
miles,
is
only about
is
40
the distance
over 80,
descent
from
here
to
about
", torrent,
which comes
high),
down from
a high
hill
of that
name
(10,400
at
ft.
and
an elevation of
in
culti-
(-earth)
Hill"; and
we
alternating with
many
to "
fallow fields
wormwood,
The Great
Flat
265
which
gives
its
name
to
a small
hamlet
that
at
halting-place.
The
to
deserted
barracks
we
passed
on
the
way had
artillery,
previously of
fatal
by the
fever
that
claimed
many
victims,
as
was
my
by the sylvan
deities
and water-sprites of
place,
in
on them
by
our
by venomous pipsee
flies,
we dipped
down
Hut
"
"The Water
after a
of the Lepcha's
at the
(Rongli-chu), so
named
Lepcha's house
crossing.
We
our
the
night;
for
sea,
although
the site
elevation
above the
free
from
least
at
that
was a staging-
bank.
The woodwork
having
spared
to
been
few
tenanted
of the
his
by
the
British
soldier.
He had
beams
initials
and posts
or
in his
eager desire
carve
down
name
to
posterity, whilst
halting
here
with
his
detachments
of troops
that
were
frequently
passing this
Pass.
way
to
frontier fort,
near
the Jelep
266
stream,
were
aggravatingly
bony and
rather
insipid to eat.
From
this
place
the
a
ascent
was
practically
unbroken.
crossing
per-
The road
several
led
up
finely
tributaries,
carried us into
manent
cultivation
was possible.
settlements
of the
Nepalese colonists
whom
our govern-
so
as
to
create
local
on
this
solitary trade-
route. chen),
.S^-tree "
(Sedong
feet
elevation,
and
in a
temperate
halted for
a rest-house, in which
we
the night.
feet
above
us,
Lingtoo,
the strongest
of the
fortified
Tibetan positions
marvellous
position
how our
in
forces
strong
the
face
of a
swarming
is
foe,
even
the ascent,
mention the
difficulties
and the
Even with
the present
to stop
good
The
first
Tibetan
267
The
some of
my
coolies
lain in
ambus-
cades, screened
by the
and the
remains
their
of
some of
were
still
dead
to
be seen
The
steep
ascent up the
cliffy
268
the
blossoms,
and up
the
through
bleak
silver-firs to
summit,
which was
lines
of
Tibetan masonry
fortifications,
Tibetan
these,
fire in
roamed over
kindled a
examining
their
details,
whilst
Achoom
The storming
under
little
by our
troops,
General
loss
Graham,
on
our
was
eftected
with
that
marvellously
the
natural
of
life
side,
seeing
made
body of men.
wretched
rusty
slings
which
are
still
the native
for "
gun
"
"fire-arrow"
(Me-dah),
and
their
commanders
are
still
called
to their
weapons, however,
priests,
they
trust
to
the
spells
of their
and especially
Ne-choong
oracle.
These
spells
only
the
supernatural
of the
gods;
but
also
And
still
men were
being rapidly
down,
did
spells;
269
cious.
Amongst
was one
like a windmill,
curious Tibetan
map
of Sikhim
270
"Before
war,
the
strength
of the
is
enemy
to
be
"exhausted
" should
before
campaign
is
be sustained
Anyone coming
received.
with overtures of
Should
two or more
left
if
possible
to bring
one
false oaths
who
fear
"not death.
sent.
The
differ-
"army
Your
horses, tents
"in
good
order.
Lama
should
"should be appointed.
"
first
On
fires
and
in cross-
"ing
" not
push forward.
Any
disputed
booty should be
sentries,
by
lots.
who must
become
They should
allow no stranger to
careful not to kill
"enter the
"any messenger.
a sentry
kills
a messenger coming to
"make
"
peace,
home
in disgrace,
when a
fort
surrounded, those in
it
should
TIBETAN RULES OF
"remain
quiet
WAR
They should
not
271
and show no
fear.
fire
"enemy.
The
most carefully
" preserved.
If
Should anyone
kill
his arms,
If
he
as
a coward.
you
his
"hands
in
"ride his
"treated
" into
his
own
well;
the
treat
hands he
may
you
also
well.
Prisoners
for
" religious
" obliged
ceremonies.
to
fly,
" should
not
Our
its
artillery
for
them.
When
it
poured
withering shells
their
and though they made several stands higher up, they soon
were driven from
their position,
have
of police
but our troops were quickly withfor the feelings of China, the
272
Amban
at
Lhasa, and he
suite of Celestials
and Tibetans,
who
appearing
antediluvian
monsters,
Mandarin
cretary to
of Lhasa
Amban.
formidable trappings
use
in
to
the
arctic
winters
Tibet,
including nose-pads^
visit
here, a
con-
mission to
facilitate
trade
across
this
frontier.
The
cere-
273
signing
this
convention
was
pomp
Government House,
Amban
demohshed
Tibetan
fort,
The Chinese
nation
is
plenipotentiary, the Amhan, whose official desig" Chinese Imperial Associate Resident in Tibet and Military
suite, as shown in the accompanying illustration, was received at the bottom of the grand staircaise by the Under-Secretary of the Foreign Department, and conducted to the top of the stairs where Mr. Cunningham, Foreign Secretary, was waiting to lead him to the Council Chamber, along a passage lined by the body-guard. The Amban wore a dress of blue and black silk, with a richly jewelled belt from which hung a short sword. He and his secretaries and suite all wore
couple of minutes
staff,
they
with two
members of
resident
came
to
was presented
the
in
procession,
the
Amban
to
their
and four standing apart. Then the powers of the Plenipotentiaries were presented and acknowledged. The door was then closed, while the Convention was read out, and compared in the English and Chinese versions; and after about a quarter of an hour the door was opened, and four copies of the Convention were signed by their Excellencies. The Amban used a brush like a camel-hair pencil, with a plain wooden
having places
the
table,
handle.
He
dipped
this in
by one of
inscribed
his attendants,
two characters,
and stooping over the parchment, slowly one below the other, and both together
more than half an inch in length. Beside the Viceroy's "Lansdowne" written in a bold hand, they had the appearance of a mistake that had been scratched out. When the copies were signed they were sealed by attendants, and here the stamping of the red seal of China was done in a moment; whereas the great fan, ox punkah, had to be stopped, and a number of matches struck under the table and in sheltered corners, before the wax seal of the British Government was affixed.
not
18
274
From
rugged
its
ruined
fort,
away up
the Jelep.
to the
its
pass of
find ourin
At
first
we
selves, are
full
with
almost every
shade
And
the grassy
between
the
lichen-clad
rocks
are enamelled
pink
and
white
anemones,
buttercups
and
other
bright
of sunshine
by bursting
into
blossom;
for
even
in
many
bloom and
below.
blush
as sweet as
down
the foreground.
The numerous
be
traces
of former
glaciers
I
the
dams,
being
little
moraines,
and
he
says, "
for
marks of
find
glacial
action
if
at
could
none whatever;
since
and con-
some
stunted junipers,
fort
a turn
of the road
of Gnathong, or
so called
by the
275
as
its
dark pine-encircled
this
meadow
is
the
first
camping-ground on
side
many
is
a pity
of their
way
to introduce
an
initial
in the Tibetan,
for
the native
word
here
plain Na-t'ang.
The
the
fort
is is
perhaps the
held
highest
military
Its
post in
is
world which
by Europeans.
It
lies in
elevation
the bottom of
at
a bowl-Hke valley,
great
distance,
commanded
that
it
all
round by heights
no
so
is
fortifications
the
barracks
themselves,
of wood,
it
backed
by
looks picturesque,
the
small
down
the
dammed up
to
form a consider-
lake,
up
and swimming
in winter, in addition
Through
European
soldiers,
and
our
ears
caught
the
cheery
who
held this
;
by some
artillery,
and
who ensconced
276
huts
the
the
fort.
It
was amusing,
the
fort
if
not pathetic, to
this
notice
streets
inside
in
outlandish
",
^'
Rotten
Row",
still
etc.;
The
extra
the
warm
clothing that
was needed
the
troops in
The
extra cloth-
in
Sikhim,
1889, as:
is
given
officially
year ending
ist April,
11,000
blankets,
3,600 cardigan
jackets and
warm
pairs
warm
sheets
in
proportion;
650 waterto
men exposed
duties.
The
protection of
forgotten, the
As
is
usual
at
most military
stations
on the
frontier,
The
Tibetans, of
whom
several
most
respectful
way although
;
of
fighting
us
few months
in building,
before, but
profitably
for
employed
277
we have
British
officer,
first
understood by the
soldiers
one of
whom
complained
to
his
at him,
again he put out his tongue even more than before, then again
I
Next
morning we ascended
to
riding
A
hill
called, to
in
Tooko
ridge above.
feet, that
It
was
along
this ridge, at
an elevation of 13,550
the Tibet-
ans built their famous wall during the night before the
last
fight.
As
has
been
remarked,
it
seems
scarcely
night.
When
at
our
Tooko
ridge
near, nor
in the night at
Gnathong, which
was only a mile and a half below, and yet next morning
there
was
this wall
mob
of yelling
thousands.
bullets
Some
still
was
be seen
in a
From
Tooko
ridge,
we passed over
278
scrubby rhododendrons to a
long,
the
Bidang-Tso
[P.
(12,700
Kingii).
fringed
with
is,
ruby-co-
loured
primroses
This lake
as noted
by
the
is
a horse-shoe
lake,
moraine,
now
converted
marsh.
At
the
south
end
is
second
well-marked moraine,
damming up
the lake.
valley,
A
and
still
sharp
rise
a sharper
steeper
at
through a snow-streaked
over
frozen
gorge,
and
bit
snow,
sea,
on
foot,
brought
us,
14,390
feet
above the
to
"Lovely Level"
pass, as the
name
Jelep^
for
found, means.
is
And
of
all
certainly
it
deserves
this
name,
it
the easiest
It
is
the
passes
rela-
tively low,
down, and
for
We
The view
into
Tibet
;
from
for
the
here,
top
is
much
finer
than
the
bold
pine-clad
capital
Mo
river,
it
where
lies its
rise
leading up to the
is
snowy peaks,
or
"The
Hill of the
spirit
279
few
feet
below
the
pass,
on the Tibetan
fir-woods,
the
site
now occupied by
the
Tibetan
Mo
of
of
Rinchen-gong,
at
and
three
miles
below
the
fort
ft.
Choombi,
way
to
Lhasa
last
century,
as
well
in
as the
sent
in
by Warren Hastings
1783.
Bogle's
troops
1773, and
as
all
Turner's
Some
of our
also,
above
testify
And
well-being
and comfort
Sikhim.
ings,
The houses
meadows
and orchards
and
in the river,
it is
good
fishing
is
said to be got.
What
pity
that
this
was
when we had
enormous
Tibetans
cost
war which
cost
to
the
aggressive
forced
upon
us.
The
our Government
have
amounted
much more.
out
Yet
all
this
expenditure, so
has turned
dead
loss,
28o
in
And
even China,
in
view of
all
its
the circum-
annexation.
Amongst
of geographical boundaries,
not
the
is
geographically
a part
of Tibet at
like
but
lies
within
aV-Himalayan
;
water-shed,
Sikhim,
Nepal and
Bhotan
Bhotan,
the
and
until
it
is
Several of
inhabitants
have
told
British
me
that they
would welcome
as
annexation
by the
Government,
they are so
officials,
who
receive
And
the
physical desirability of
is
acquiring
is
immense.
Its
climate
it
is
which
make
residence
in Darjeeling so
when a
cool sanitarium
is
most needed
^
;
and
its
said to
be scarcely equalled
by the best
Then,
India
to
this
parts of Kashmir.
valley
is
the
Central
Tibet, and
therefore of commercial as
The
so
is
extremely circuitous, so
and
only
ultimately
to
rising
to
the
14,390
feet
of the
dip
down
it
again
Choombi
at
all
valley, that
its
is
finds
way by
281
"The
the
On
the
is
map
will
show,
to Central Tibet
up
Mo
the
British
district
east.
from
India
via
a few hours.
The advantages
forcibly,
Eden
so
when he was
in
Bhotan
in
would
an
India,
Between
a
Choombi
valley
British
this
is
true.
But
doubtless
could
Bhotanese, sums,
small
so
who have
much
in
to
us,
for
nominal
this
of their
and especially as
tract
question
already been
shorn of most of
it is
now
tanese themselves.
I
late
war;
and
shall
282
Choombi.
be relatively
the
up to
the
river,
Tsang-po,
necessary.
For Tibet
is
certain
its
to
become
rich gold-fields,
perhaps
the
so.
richest
in
it
the
world,
in
are
alone sufficient to
make
it
And
lies
to India
much more
closely
than to
crisis,
Russia.
On
lies
an almost
river
The cheapness
plateau
Choombi and
all
in the adjoining
of Tibet
remarkable, and
I
the
more
so
when
compared with
that in Sikhim.
was
told
is
by some of the
generally
it is
Choombi (which
known
famous),
an ordinary native
with
traveller,
who
visions
money (though
sell
in
some places
Tibet the
people do not
goods
1^2
for
can
Hve
on
to
about
the
to
annas
so,
(or
it
pence)
costs
a day,
in
compared
annas
or
that
the
car-
neighbouring
riage
is
British
territory
of
Darjeeling.
And
is
still
cheaper.
The
or
ordinary
that
means of
carry
transport
1^/4
by
ponies,
mules
yaks,
about
to
283
human
porterage
is
deemed degrading
in
Tibet.
all
The
the
all
the wayl
In this
levied,
and Phari
is
ordinarily
five
thirteen
of Lhasa,
the
Mecca of the
left
Tibetans; though
met
at the Jelep a
amount
to four
The
frontier, as
much
as
five
rupees
(over
six
shillings)
about ten per cent of the value of the goods, except gold,
which
its
is
import.
to
it
is
freely
is
exported
strictly
Tibet,
and
usually
of
base
quality,
Returning from
off to the right
we saw
and
to the
the jagged
snow-streaked
peaks
Chola
range
to
and to the
this
Nathu,
last
Following
we reached
lake, fringed
Nemi
284
with
beyond which,
after
Choombi
through
lakes,
is
valley
is
obtained.
About
with
picturesque
steep
valley
a a
succession
fine
of
little
the
Yak
pass
with
view
is
of the
long, steep
This range
low
dip,
somewhat
mist that
flattened.
Through the
musical
tinkle
thick
now
set in,
we heard
the
of
ox-bells,
They
are
nomads
graze
like the
herdsmen of
on both
Lachoong
valley.
They
their
cattle
In the sum-
mer they
passes,
crops,
falls,
into
the
Choombi
valley,
and
in
autumn they
As
the
snow
they
latter
have
is
scanty
crops
The
made
into
priL
it
is
called
One
going
few
pedestrians
we met was
a
Sikhimese
of
Choombi,
carrying
It
heavy
load
Murtva
this
seed of his
seed,
own growing.
in
;
which
for
Rs.
in
Choombi
and
this
amount,
if
invested there in
285
cwts.,
which
sell in
Darjeeling
about Rs. 30
Some
as
I
me
passed
way
and the
entered
devils of these
He
by the
Lord",
his
name; on the
east side of
(zooti)
on
which he
surprised
sat;
and close
she-devils
a spot where he
beings,
some
cooking
human
and
be two
supported
colossal
cooking-pot.
He, too, created the pass through that ridge on which the
Tibetans built their long wall
Pass
",
the
Tooko
La, or "Up-torn
by
tearing
to crush
an obnoxious
demon,
all
whom
who
he buried
And
by mermaids,
and dragon-
spirits
unwary
to destruction.
The names
abouts,
I
of these mountains, places and rivers heregive us great insight into the
find,
way
in
which
primitive
now convey
to us
little
or no meaning.
waves of
races
the country in
ancient times,
and so
little is
286
or driven out,
is
not easy
rivers,
now
to find a
meaning
in the
Here,
who gave
in
possession,
much
of their country
comparatively
recently,
the
reasons for their name-giving have not yet been lost sight
of.
But there
for
is
no time
ject,
is
the
fast
becoming
full
a written language,
have given
to the
much
by
their
meaning becoming
had,
therefore,
in this research, to
prepare a vocabu-
the lips of the elder Lepchas, and to hunt for the precise
And
then
had
to elicit
by enquiries
at
why
Here
particular
name.
'*'
all
the oldest
names
in this
Lepcha
the
are
Bhotiyas
in
who
lower
settled
here
and
there
now
the
ranges
recently
for
occupied
places
by
the
Nepalese,
several Nepalese
names
already
So
that
to
several
and
rivers
have
syno-
now
come
possess
three
different
names
or
HOW
river
287
Thus, the
"The Great
Straight-going
"The
called
{Teestota or "Teesta"), on
account of
in its course
It
will
how remarkably
;
de-
names
that
is
are, as
a rule
embody
information
of the
useful
in
to the
aborigines
forest,
or,
the
case of a trade-route
to the Tibetan traders
such as
we were now
it.
traversing,
who
very
of
frequent
The names
feature
usually
well
site
express
or river;
some
e.g.,
obvious
physical
especial
of the
rivers,
an
tortuosity,
steepness,
impetuosity,
;
of mounsites,
their
shape,
appearance,
etc.
of village
the
soil,
stony,
precipitous,
meadow-like character,
quality of
this
road denote
or
or
stages
presenting
rock-shelter,
clearing
pasture.
in
the jungle
sites,
with
water
near,
and occasionally
These
being
on
lines
of communication
into
first
given by Tibetan
priests
merchants or other
such
as
or
monks;
288
nomenclature.
Such a
traveller
might be supposed
to describe
how on
going from
"The
"Country of Rice"
Sikhim, for
food),
it
" Den-jong''
is
he
passed
"The
Saints'
Mount"
{Ku-pktc)
Meadow "
ed down
tu) to
[Ling-tu, or properly
"The Big
"The Big
dom-chen) he crossed
"The Water"
"The Big
"The Three
Fort", or
''^
"The
Governor's
etc., etc.
{Kalhn-pong)
On
returning
Pedong,
the frontier
of Bhotan.
"The Windy
Site" (6,600
ft),
down
to
Ambiokh
(2,920
ft).
On
the way,
we saw
Large
BHOTANESE FORT
herds
of these
as
289
ascend
high
and every year numbers are caught by the Indian Government, in the unreclaimed forest of the adjoining plains below.
Near
turesque
my
its
tent in
the
forest,
at
pic-
Dahng
(3,350),
that gave
name
to this part of
known
fort,
its
This
position,
is
perched, as
name
"
The Rocky
in
fort
This
the
foot
stretching
plains,
rivers.
seamed by the
the
great
We
torrents
now formed
way over
hills in
become
raised
rivers to seek
new
many
that
One
we saw
it
thus called
because
flowing
I
sinks
down and
the
for several
underneath
this
descended
the
"cow
station" [Gooru-bathan) of
some Nepalese
herds19
290
men.
into
plains
are
here
called
by
the
Indians, Doo-ars,
as the
equivalent to
Saxon "door".
Doo-ars
land,
^*
The jungle
was not
practicable or wise to
as
I
go very
to ride
;
far
had no elephant
for
fresh
foot-prints
of a
tiger.
Here
and
tailed
tails,
Bhotanese
partridge,
disetis).
common
in
early
as
600 B.C.
The
sharp
clarion
call
of the
wild
bird
is
much more
The
and staccato
butterflies
variety of
in
and other
in
this
outer tract,
to the
and
in
The
the
semi-aborigines
who
inhabit
the
and
291
many ways an
interesting people.
They do
not, as is stated
writers,
the
a branch of the
"Kooki"
that
from the
east,
KOCH OR
pootra and not,
I
COOCH
TRIBE.
think,
much Hindooized by
lost
own language,
the
but
even their
tribal
name,
and
are
now known by
Bengalee epithet of
Kochari" or "Cachari",an
to call them-
selves
by the Hindoo
of
^'
Raj-bansi'' or
their nobler
"The Royal
kinsmen, the
Race", to
affiUate themselves
on
292
reigning
etc.,
of
Koch
in
lower
A
in
few of the
still
more
aboriginal
tribes
be found
the
forest,
Mech
usual
and some
we have
seen, to be found
amongst
the Lepchas.
tribe
enjoy
and adjoining
plains.
This
is
owing,
in
some measure,
on which they
raise
and
to their clearing
away
of
the
immediate
neighbourhood
their
where
women
and the
clearing
here
came upon a
field
young
leopard in
of sugar-cane
in-
was peering so
it
into
the
me
into
as
it
was
it.
disappearing
that
growth,
Immediately there
which, unseen
I I
rose
by
me,
few dozen
I
yards
beyond where
had
fired.
Thinking that
to
rushed up
the
village,
no one had
293
wild pigs which the ieopard had been stalking, and which
on hearing
my
not
the
should
advise
anyone
as
I
to
return
to
Kalimpong
short-
directly
across
the
hills
seeming
cut turned
out
deceptively to
route,
more fatiguing
of the tracks.
on account of the
hill-people
and badness
These
have even
ception of distance
than
They
their
"two
miles and a
much
the bigger
is
tell
you
it
that a place
is
double
to
what
coming down.
set-
On
the way,
tlements
of the Lepchas.
The
families
averaged four to
five children,
the
current
this
race
is
sheer
inanition
scarcely correct.
The
is
reason
for
the disappearance
by
cutting off in
great
measure
their sources
They
identity
women
much
with
whom
race
they freely
is
intermarry,
as
own
so
Two
of these
Lepcha
girls,
after
294
suasion,
bamboo
all
decorated
with of the
plaited
basket-pattern.
As none
before,
of these
European notation.
of these idyllic songs refer not only to the
of
love,
The words
primitive
passion
but
even
to
the
inscrutable
And
in this
respect
it
is
pathetic to notice
associate
how
these Lepchas or
Rongs
specially
its
water-jugs, cooking-pots
bottles,
its
smoking-pipes and
its
its
couch
also baskets
and umbrellas
and
its
eaten as food.
exist
A-CHU-LE:
A SONG OF THANKSGIVING.
^=^J ^^^^^z^^Eg;
:t
^=5'
-#-*
-H-
=:1=1
(-
chu
le
kal
tak-bo-ram
295
i :jr^~^"^^
nan ya
it
-
-*
^
-
-i
i~l r3r*^
it
-
tang
sa.
tang
sa.
^5-^^
:i.
^ ^
It
:^
-
:^ re
-
r^
ka.
r^ V^V
Sham-man-mi
zon.
it -
to
tsat
ka.
it
duk
kang
sa
O Joy! In the olden time the Head-Father-Spirit (He) the Sky-Existing-One made this earth,
He clothed the When the men
stony
made
with
the earth,
bosom of
fertile fields.
were made and the jointed bamboos and the trees, At that same time were we, the sons of the (one-) mother-flesh
jolly
2.
Rongs.
'*^
Joy!
The mulberry
trees
rice
and other
vegetables,
The running rivers were made with their fleeing fishes. The fleeing sky-birds were made with the worms and insects, And the rainbow was made by our old first great-grandfather, (But) our troubles were made by our old first great-grandmother
The
You seem
moan
296
hut
glen.
in the
forest,
or
the
very
old
to
pentatonic scale,
I
Mohan
in
Tagore,
whom
and he adds
is
is
and Siamese".
The next
spinster,
three
songs
are
love-laments, the
first
by a
U-LA-DUNG DUT:
A LOVE-LAMENT.
M3? :z=l: U
-
:5^3E
la
-
dung
diit
sa 'lam lop
la
na
tel
nom
go
lop
^^^3^
go.
:^:
nom go nom
i
Nyel
bli diit sa
shellop-la
na
-Ruff
^
go
t'el
nom
go
lop
la
na
t'el
nom
nom
go.
like
I
a whirling spinning
like
staff.
am
maiden standing
297
am
bud
like a
sorrowing bird,
The
reference, in the
above and
the custom
of the
maidens behind.
is
My
heart
my
breath
is chill,
maker of
Fate,
Pray
1 feel
tell
me my
luck.
very sad.
am
Why
I feel
me
so
O fair one with the flowing hair! O fair one with the straight-parted locks Why have you charmed me so? O fair one with the neat parted hair O old great-grandmother Nyezong, the joiner of our breath O old great-grandfather Fadung, praised be your names
I 1
me
?
To
suffer
chiefs, called
their wives
Nye-kong
of
whom
worship.
Down
forest, in
298
the Teesta,
the
myriad
that
till
At
this
season,
May, and on
the
tender
leaves of the great Sal trees were literally alive with voracious
caterpillars,
whose droppings
fell
underneath,
this
and
was going on
day
some hundreds of
species,
miles.
These
caterpillars
distasteful
which explains
I
overwhelm-
ing numbers.
and offered
them
trial,
to
some
some-
time
One
of the
species
colour
broke
its
fall
from the
trees
by
letting itself
down
by a long
silky thread.
Continuing
affluent
down
its
dark
"The
we
ing
towards
"the
height
of the
[Mahaldi],
dense,
damp, dripping
its
forest
in
home
the
Andes of
Peru.
visit.
factory here
cultivation
299
of cheap
methods of extracting
its
quinine,
by
price
from getting
A
fine
ride of about
moss-covered
by
ing,
which
Darjeel-
which now
name
as "
The
Place of the
in
town,
hiding
its
of thunder
of the
down
the
the valleys.
And
120 inches
of
rainfall,
waterproof,
to
by the
rain,
through
Darjeeling, however,
of her misfortune in
this respect,
movement
its
is
town by
electricity
generated from
excessive rain-supply.
CHAPTER
IX
ETC.,
To
see
closer quarters,
dendron
forests in full
plains,
much more
ease than
Hooker's time,
the
for
along
Nepal
frontier,
comfortable staging
rest-
reach by
now
all
way along
So,
301
that
had hid
the road
to
Ghoom,
foot
we threaded
on the
ferny
the
fine
to
the staging-house of
Jorpokri,
frontier
of Nepal.
forest
This
that
and
moss-grown
resembled somewhat
it
of Rangiroon,
in
was
especially
exhilarating
the
of early
spring.
Here and
where
strings
there
we passed
water-kelpies
we met
of
sturdy
Nepalese trudging
that they were
baskets of
the Dar-
provisions
carrying
or from
jeeling market.
different tribes
all
and
the
now adopting
ruling
tribe
of
Hindooism,
set
since
this
their
the
Goorkhas
have
them
example.
themselves,
after
^'
the
name
of their
former
headlittle
quarters at
Goorkha,
in the Central
Himalayas, were
India
and
with
settled at the
the
Mongoloids
Seizing
advantage
of the
at that
when
transition,
themselves a
little
kingdom
302
there.
members
own
carried
arms
for
A GOORKHA.
the
country
with
blood.
in
1792,
and
were spreading
September 1788)
in
and the
defeated,
Indian
in
plains,
14,.
until
and
18 to
by the
troops
under General
that
Ochterlony,
whose
memory was
erected
great
303
monument
Now-a-days
from modern
the
title
these
politics,
Goorkhas have
though
their
almost
is
disappeared
name
still
famous as
of
native regiments,
troops,
As mercenary
name
officers, coveris
that
their
almost a
household word
to
settle in
England.
And
in
large
numbers
to
the
Sik-
Kumaon Himalayas
him
to the
the
in
north
of Nepal,
and
south-east,
Indian regiments
colonists.
as
well as to secure
them
as industrious
us
and against
us,
and
it
the
Burmese and
after
in
Chitral wars.
So long ago
as
1790,
when,
forces
the
campaign.
Captain
"It
was an
interesting
and amusing
sight to
and
kindly
feeling
with
Goorkhas
mutually
regarded
six-foot-two
'little
it
from
him with a
rade stooped
grin,
and when
down
304
little
away
at
it
one just received, and they were conseon the back, and called 'prime chaps.'"
against
:
quently patted
And when
Marshman,
us
writes
"
most
India,
their
in
and they
also
proved to
to
engagements."
their
They
can,
own
country, where
children.
women and
probable that
in
we
cannot help
feeling
Goorkhas have
unswerving
confidence
their part
by
their
and they on
seem
to reciprocate our
sentiments.
As an
may
be cited the
deeds
of
Colonel
when
assisting
mutiny.
At
that time he
was only a
private, but
on one
seven mutineers.
only
his
"^
knife
or
wounds.
Politically,
and acknowledging,
such as Burma, by
states,
absolutely inde-
pendent
closed
in its
government.
of
its
And
it
has
all
along jealously
all
the
interior
country against
Europeans,
305
Brian
Hodgson downwards.
Its
government
is
of the auto-
Minister,
who
is
the
real
de-facto
ruler,
called
''
Maha-rajah'", or Emperor,
is
King".
This minister,
who
won
cated
his
position
Calcutta,
by a coup
I
1885.
He was
edu-
at
3o6
an enlightened
reforms.
several
useful
European
We
many
are
now
passing, on their
way
to
representatives
Aged
Nepal.
31.
dooism,
dress,
who crop
are
their hair
broadly
i.e.,
classed
the
Nepalese
proper
in
or
" Pahariyas'\
to
addition
or
the
Mangar
Magar
307
nomad
and
also the
First of these
come
the Neivdrs,
who were
until displaced
by the Goorkhas.
They
are
more
civilised
than the Goorkhas, and form the chief clerks, traders and
artisans,
still
ridicule of the
Kiranti
(or
The Limboos,
still
more
Kiranti,
we
And
Moormi
or " Tainang'&i\o\Ay2iS>
",
who
also
Nepalese.
sit
upon them.
Hindoo's
caste,
in
practice,
what he
will eat
and
drink,
and
yet
what he
will
not.
their
much
drink
altered
these
respects,
things
that
are
tabooed
by
at
every
strict
Hindoo.
Thus,
home, eat
buffalo-flesh,
sheep and pork, and are very skimp with their ceremonial
ablutions.
would
scandalize
the
lowest
out-caste
Hindoo of
India,
Though
3o8
and
many ways
of the Japanese,
of the
latter.
they are
very
The people
offences, as
;
are
hanged or decapitated
in
for
very
decades ago
race
and
doubtless
by preventing
the
made
the
becoming
to
plodding
the dead
cultivators,
level
have
not
yet
degenerated
of the
bound Indian
vary
cultivator.
in
considerably,
proportion
extent
of their
it is
Scratch a Russian,
said,
and
you'll
find
the Tartar;
operation
The
majority
little
are
or no moustache.
are
They
generally
full
undersized,
whipcord,
to
in
and so
of energy that
is
quite
common
hill
see
old
preference
walking.
furrows
of the
eorillas.
some
older
men,
as
in
our
illustration,
almost suggest
309
same Hindooized
dress
is
style,
The men's
that of the
It
Hindoo Rajpoots of
of cotton
trousers
it
the Northern
Hima-
layas.
consists
and puny
jackets,
is
remarkable to find
3IO
any
approaching
girdle
this colour.
And
into their
bulky
towel-like
they
the
richly
encased
in
ornate silver-work.
in
cropped
except
the
is
wilder tribes,
whose matted
hair
And most
of the
selves
by
as
we have
seen,
have
often
and
pleasant
faces,
close-fitting
bodice
and
kilted
skirt,
with
bright
coloured girdle
is
silk
handkerchief
thrown
negligently
head.
They overload
nose-rings,
bracelets,
anklets,
finger-rings,
and
necklets
of huge
size,
made of
or
massive
waist.
silver,
or strings
of coins
reaching
down
all
to
their
Indeed,
well
as
most of the
of their
women wear
their
wealth
as
;
that
husbands on
their necks
and
faces
they
pawn
Their position
is
decidedly
married
free,
life,
quite
as
much
as in
Europe.
Bhotiya
is
Indeed
sisters,
in
like
their
Lepcha and
they are
much
of the heart.
Young
311
and
Indian
real
love-matches
the rule.
is
Whereas,
with
the
the
plains-people
it
everything
arranged by
friends,
and
is
groom
The Nepalese
are
monogamous
unless
rule,
They
are un-
compromising
their
punishment
of
infidelity,
and are
down
their aggressor
Kookree.
In
British
territory,
however, where
hands, they have
own
be content with a
All
fine only.
cleanliness
rather
at
a discount amongst
them.
Like
nor
for ablution,
same
at
night.
the
cleanliest
on the
whole,
though
most
of these
daily cere-
by performing the
is
by
out undressing.
dress
You must
not,
and known
such
matters
they put on
all
312
to
although
your
pork-eating
Lepchas
and
For your
necessitate
intrusion, if
it
the
throwing
away of
all
their
cooked food,
But
these
their hut.
for
by not entering
their
houses,
With
their thin
adopted a Hindoo
tiyd),
"the
hill
speech" {Parda-
and
it
is
India.
It
medium
of communication
each of
own
but by means
common
Parbatiya speech
They
Lepchas
employ
exorcists
whenever they
to
an
who must be
driven out.
{Bijooas),
like
These exorcists
as
they
the
spell-throwers "
they
cure
off
outskirts of
village,
we passed
a small heap
NEPALESE EXORCISTS
as a peace-offering
313
by these
who
and bidden
Their
less
ascetics
are
clad,
and
We
passed
in the
a party
of them coming
down from
their
penance
by
their
smeared
The
personal
titles
name
of the individual
friends.
is
scarcely ever
is
even
by
their
nearest
it
This
not
all
done,
apparently,
because
is
deemed unlucky.
As
men
brother"
or they
all
[dajii],
may be
are
by one or other of
to be
certain
titles,
of which
considered
more
tribes
These
do not appear
clans,
like
mountaineers
others.
of
Central
India, as found
by V.
Ball
and
gat) and
"The Pen
name
of the Pigs"
(vS^<?;z^;7-/^/'),
we
reached "
to a considerable
market
we met
a marriage procession
like Scottish
314
bagpipers
rest-house
tasted
"The
Pair of
that
Tarns"
[jfor-pokree),
where we
the
good things
Achoom had
A HILL MUSICIAN.
sician
fiddles,
an
sixpence.
And we had
Swarms
of
frogs,
embowered among
315
chorus
of murmurs.
The
natives of
the
Newars
just
mentioned,
worship
these
^^
animals
And
here
bell-like
call,
who
on which
the
pity,
is
however,
tured,
us
vel-
vety
ropes
moss
and
ferns
and
of twining
creepers.
clung to
their moist
fantastic
shapes.
One
of them
is
sweet-scented
like the
The number
They
is
prodigious.
scarcely
less
numerous than
in
Hills,
where
Sir
250 kinds.
aristocratic orchid
cult.
and
authoritatively,
"
1,000
is
the
long lost
Cypripedium Fairieantnn.
popular
de-
enthusi-
may
romance of botany,
extinct
3i6
in
may
be.
The
flowers
;
are
the the
dorsal
base,
large
at
beautifully
streaked
the pouch
one
and the
of
Messrs.
Sander
is
surely
sufficient
know
best,
hills
will yet
Assam, probably
want'
it
Bhotan (probably
orchid
in Sikhim).
is
The
'long-felt
among
growers
a blue orchid.
all
Curious
tints
is
the
almost unrepresented.
is
There
in
is
to
be found
it
that
has been
found,
and that
it
ium bequeathed
in
to
Professor Reichenbach to be
will,
in the
an
illustrated
work
in folio.
work
which
is
understood to be
of Sikhim,
in course of preparation
on the
Orchids
Botanical
Gardens,
as to the
some clue
whereabouts of
Queen of
EXTERMINATION OF ORCHIDS
its
317
class
is
culti-feet,
vation.
It
it
plentiful
above Darjeeling,
about
fifty
at 8
9,000
ago.
whence
flowers
as
was
introduced
years
The
much
lip.
it
are
four
inches
One seldom
those
sale
fails
to
in
Darjeeling,
it
products
of
It
is
vandalism that
a great
is
as
wanton as
too
is
wholesale.
delusion, only
commonly experienced,
to
They may
they
second.
one
cold
season,
but
a
courage to endure
strength
the
in
They
will
expend
producing
effort
new
leaves
left for
supreme
hills
of flowering,
unless
the
to
recuperate.
One
hesitates
compute the
number
stroyed
each year,
lost
and surely
exterminated."
jeeling
sale
It
is
to
whole-
floral creation."
Some
Winding down
this
forest,
over veins
of brittle white
we reached
the
saddle {bhanjan,
it)
crumbling
cairn
or
Mani
(6,500
ft.),
where we halted
3i8
lunch
forest,
charred
uncanny-looking.
RHODODENDRON-TREE FOREST
feathery
319
leafless
paper
laurel
RHODODENDRON
TREES.
make
ft.
their Japanese-like
paper, to a
elevation,
rhododendron
This
bloom.
to
glorious
sight
is
is
be equalled nowhere
else in
the
home
of the rhododendrons.
The
whole
hill-side for
320
anthopogon
The
variety in form
and
size
many
great
oaks
(as
seen
in the illustration
on pre-
festival of
we reached
it
the
rest-house of Toom-ling, or
ft.
"Tonglu"
as
is
called
We
spent
the
afternoon
the
rhododendron woods.
figured about
24 species found
the
The
first
that
we met on
It
way up
is
with
its
beautiful
in
large
seven inches
oaks
and
chestnuts.
[R.
After
it,
appears
the large
tree-
rhododendron
coloured
arboremn)
forms.
strikingly
specimen
is
the
thirty
down
flakes,
underneath,
and
pale
pink
bark
peels
off in
RHODODENDRON FORESTS
giving
the
IN
FULL BLOOM
fleshy
323
smooth
silky
stem
strikingly
and
naked
it.
appearance,
arge7ituni
as
R.
differs
this
last
in
its
having a
;
silvery
under-surface
and
its
ft.
flowers pure
white
whilst
is
R. Canipbellia, with
found above 10,000
for
bright orange
downy
leaves,
only
example,
leaves of
R.
the
by the Lamas.
as
We
the
rhododendron-tree
as
its
irritating
and malodorous.
Its
dark
heart
wood
is
handles of kookrees
ate the petals
some other
The
of this
sunrise
over the
from here
as
the
outline
call
hill
it
of Kanchen-junga, or
for
Kanchen'
is
we
shall
now
brevity;
but Everest
it
not
is
visible, as
the dark
of Sandook-phu shuts
out, nor
set out.
way
a
it,
yak-grazing station
Ghairi-bans,
Nepa-
lese call
Nepalese emigrants
to settle
who had
left
324
permanently
many
at
of the
latter
toddling
their
mothers' heels;
all,
travel
as they
ridge,
where on a pre-
we emerged
the
open grassy
of Sandook-phu.
Here
ft.
at
above
the sea,
we
the
Here
stretch
grassy
slopes,
which,
for
sprinkled
ft.,
with
pines,
up to the summit
about 2,000
are thickly
is
from
its
this
feature,
wit,
rives
name
to
the
The
So abundant
is
and so deadly
all
the
cattle
the sheep
and
cattle passing
drivers.
And
of these discarded
bamboo
muzzles.
is
The
curious
circumstance
also
this poison,
a similar
plant in Mongolia
cattle
namely,
that
that
it
that
are
levels;
whilst
bred
in
325
This
is
see
more
charmers are believed to render themselves and their performing animals immune to serpents' venom, by the
re-
which
Much
its
way
to
by homoe-
Bhotiyas
transport to
Calcutta.
They pay a
of Sikhim for this privilege, and they get from the native
dealers at Darjeeling about fourteen shillings for three-quarters
of the
exported for
its
Hooker says
is
The men
dig up
its
roots in late
juices,
autumn
its
its
on which
activity
This root
also
326
Eastern
used
tAWaddeU.Dd,
rame and
in warfare, as
in the
POISONED ARROWS-SNOWSTORM
expeditions against the Sikhimese, and also the
tribes of
329
crevices to
paste, or
made
of barbed
to penetrate
of the
game
that they
have
killed
by these
effects to themselves.
Snow
the
lay
in
we
zig-zagged up
northern
pines,
slopes
silver
and
it
we made
room
that
way
to the rest-house.
front
invaded by a
pile of driven
in
it
through a chink
Fires
but
while
Achoom was
the
kitchen,
and we
the baffled
tempest
still
The
storm-tossed pines
wintry
Was Music
From
white-robed
peaks
Kanchen-junga
dry frosty
air.
330
The
moonbeams
whilst in
The
stretch
sunrise
over
the
of these
latter
that
seen from
We
were
this
famous view.
As
the eye
it
at
chen-junga;
altered
and the
first
it
thing
that
strikes
you
is
the
outline of both
and
its
pared
gling
with
that
The long
and
strag-
Hues
of
its
ridges, the
tent-like
Kabru,
etc.,
from
cluster
Darjeeling,
are
now
foreshortened,
Kanchen
',
majestically
over
all. is
dark setting of pines, and without the deep intervenof the Rang-eet.
It is,
itself.
ing
valley
after
all,
less in
The Everest
that hid
its
banks of clouds
of valleys.
to
our
left,
much
lower on the
(l2,000 FEET).
333
much
further
away
about,
the
90 miles
whilst
the
is
latter
visible.
is
about 43 miles.
base
is
Only the
behind
peak of Everest
Its
hid
Peak
No. XIII.
" of the
Survey
(see p.
342).
downwards
to
the
plains.
Some
ten thousand feet below us, the rising mist and clouds
sea,
whose
sea of curling
fleecy
And
as
we
gazed,
some
of these
clouds
Lepchas
which
call
them,
settle
upwards
to the
snowy
pinnacles,
on
they
down
in flocky
peaks
Towards evening,
however,
these
snow
in
the colder
atmosphere,
The
miles
by the way
I
got two
Monal
pig,
saw a wild
snow of
deer, goat-antelope,
and a bear.
334
The
and
life,
their
at
times
seemed uncanny
as
walked
my
so
spHntered
struck
by
lightning,
and gnarled
by the
As
called Sabarafter
goovi,
or
"The
of the
Musk-deer", so called
Lao
in Tibetan) sight.
which
saw a ghastly
Athwart
Several jackals
and an animal
like
a hyena sur-
and not
deceased's basket
filled
ed
after
the
further,
had
a small
fire,
into a
His foot-prints
in the
snow
led
up
to here,
and
come only
for
in
arm,
basket
when
disturbed
them
unholy
feast.
of the
cutting
ft.),
blast
that swept
we emerged from
the
on to the
treeless
slopes
of Faloot, properly
or
"The
Peeled
Summit"
as the
Lepchas
call
it,
If
-^^^
.%:
f\Q'(l^vrK'^
%
A NEPALESE FROZEN TO DEATH IN THE SNOW.
337
looks
as
if its
my
Tibetan porters on
Now we
country
It
our
own Tibet!"
its
rest-house
(11,810
windy top
before
ft.),
and
arrived
about
an
hour
my
to satisfy
it
was the only food that the caretaker of the house possessed.
He made up
for
me some
his
recom-
hours
my
blistered
tongue reminded
me
The
sunrise
to
ball of the
sun dipped
the
the
snowy
pinnacles,
gleaming
fiery
red,
filled
sea
of pearly haze
that
dividing
up
turquoise,
gold.
in
laced here
of burnished
Then followed
which the
glittering fiery
rose,
them
far
338
why
more than a
hills
tiger
or
leopard.
in
these same
an excited
the
Nepalese
that
came
to
my
for
tent,
with
news
a
of
large
his
bear
and
its
two
cubs
men
village,
and
had
days
been
hearing
that
European
traveller
had
arrived,
he had
if
come
I
to
beseech
all
me
to
go
would go,
slaying
me
go
in
these
I
As
it
late to
that
evening
my
shot-
gun and
their
shells
It
and a few of
my
On
best cooHes
armed with
knives.
to the village,
it,
down many
built
miles of ravines.
a powerfully-
man was
its
to
twice
size,
down
his
neck,
in
agony.
I
had no narcotics
laid
with
me
had him
down and
village blacksmith,
and
to
that
children
had
for
him that they had been chased by these bears while herding his cattle, and yesterday one of his children had been
in
the
Whereupon
the
indignant blacksmith,
on
MAULED BY A BEAR
his
in
33q
great
physical
strength,
physique,
and
in
an instant
seen,
inflicted
on him the
terrible
wounds
villagers
that
we had
and so
terror-struck
were the
power of the
bears, that
although
to
had come
husbands inside
And
ere
my men
With
these
and
my
informant of yesterday
who showed
The cave
less
cowardice
went
of brushwood.
yards off and sent the beaters to throw in stones, but the
bears seemed to be not at home.
sign,
At
I
least
they gave no
approached to the
mouth of
hillsides
it
for
and advised
him
hospital,
this
peak of Faloot, or
340
the
Kanchen
'
peak
is
And
left.
it
the horn of
"Jannu"
however,
Everest,
is
hid
by
snowy
To
see Everest
we must
top of
its
peak comes
into
view
shoulder of this
is
arm-chair
in
shown
in
the
the
And
is
is
to be got of
it,
outside
at
is
Everest
from
access
which Europeans
plains, or in
have
had
Central
Nepal),
older
that
is
of the
travellers
in
all,
distinguish Everest at
tain.
moun-
other available
points of view
is
of
it,
its
enormous height
is
Survey Department.
When
the
great
trigonometrical
survey
of India had.
EVEREST AND
about
foot
ITS
NATIVE NAMES
345
the
year
1850,
extended from
of
the
Himalayas,
newly gained
base,
measurements
frontiers,
and
The Surveyor-General
mounGeorge
the
surname of
to
his
predecessor in
Sir
Everest,
whom
naming was
raised
by Mr.
given to this
^''
Deva-dhunga''\ or
At the meeting
1857,
nth May,
and
at
which Sir
was given to
in the
this
has
appeared
On
the continent,
Khatmandu,
tical
usually assigned
346
to
namely,
has
^^
Gaiiri-sankar'",
one of the
titles
of the con-
jugal
it
But
is
not generally
known
that
mountains
been
conclusively
disproved
by
General
Walker, the
late
Owing
and
the
interposition
to
of other
ranges,
it
is
physically
or the
impossible
see
Khatmandu
he saw
it
and got
his local
name
As
for
Kanchen-junga,
visible
is
shown
hundred
miles beyond the most remote point visible from that locality."
And
sankar" of Schlagintweit
the Survey, but a
tain.
much
"
I
moun-
He
writes
me
the panoramic
for
profiles
some time
Sheopuri,
',
Gauri-sankar
in
(political) residents
Nepal
his angular
'
am
No.
(see
XX
',
map
it."
on
p.
What
mountain
the
then
is
the native
name of
it is
vernacular
names of great
mountains?
The
native
347
Himalayan peaks
Nepalese names.
nomenclature of
to
them
generally
indicate
ranges
more
the
accessible
Of
many
whom
**
asked the
name
Deva-dunga " or
they had never
" Gauri-sankar
This latter
name
for a hill
heard
of,
though many
in
hills
name
for
it all.
They
simply called
in
common
with
all
the
other high
lagiri,
which
name
of
snowy
peaks: ^'Himalaya'', or
"The Abode
to the
Snow",
a classic
is
term which
is
unknown
common
people, and
only
Nor had
these
men
peak
any
" No.
specific
name even
for
that
striking crater-like
XIII,"
has
as "
Khumba-lung,"
after
it
the
valley
at its foot;
although
it,
these Nepalese
knew
well
woman
who
in
a sitting posture.
On
for
around
Everest
and
who ascend
this
sacred
mountain
it
call
and
^48
the
seem
incorrectly
The
highest range of
snowy peaks
in this
region
in
group, was
the
pointed out
me by
a Tibetan native of
Khumbu,
province of North-Eastern
the south, as "
Nepal bordering
this
range on
Gang-nga-Ra-iua).
that
is
range,
to
say what
we have
called the
"Everest group"
called
by him Lap-chi-
The Lady
White Glacier".
These
latter
its
my
informant said
in con-
Lower Lap-chi-Kang,"
tradistinction to the
much
this
higher,
and lay
Upper
from
Khumbu
or
have
frontier;
and
in
is
words, which
may
be followed
in
my
accompanying
ENVIRONS OF EVEREST
sketch-map.
351
district
lies
"To
the
east
of the
Kirong
Nalam, (Nyanam)
the
the
in the vicinity
of which are
Gung Tang,
Toipa cave,
Rva;
also the
all
these places
on the Tibet-Nepal
and Tar-gya-ling,
in
the
neighbourhood of that
and
patrons
of St. Milarapa.
At the
foot of Lap-chi-Kang,
on
the Tibetan side, are five glacial lakes, sacred to these five
fairies,
and each
differs
in
lies
the colour of
its
water.
To
mountain
named
the
Gung-Kang
pass,
which
is
she-devils called
Buddhism
Gung Tang
is
posted at Tengri."
This description
a curious
is
by
Tibetan picture of
am
I
indebted to
Mr. A.
W.
Paul, C.
E.
The
Tibetans, as
some years
five celestial
352
cult
which
is
also
common
to
the
its
Chinese and
Japanese.
glaciers
The
for
sides
up
to the
worship,
visit
the
tomb of the
the
great
high-priest
namely,
picture the
tomb of the
and the
hamlets
of this
flanks of Everest,
'
various
there.
This
bird's-eye
lower slopes
is
name of the
places.
The summit
of Everest
depicted conventionally
by the Tibetan
their
tips
artist as
ending
in five
cloud-capped.
is
mountain
written
Na-lam
form of
Nanam
or
Nyanam),
in the
in
known
names
topographical position.
Until, however,
we
now known
it
"Everest"
whether or not
Schlagintweit
should
be called by
The form
reputed
treasured
of Everest has
drawing
at
of
it
by H.
Office
the
India
as
of
Tonglu,
whence,
Colonel
Tanner points
out, this
355
not even
visible,
nor
is
it
of the
al-
Nepalese
together.
its
different
The
is
XIII "
And
here
it
is
to
be noted,
pictures
purporting to have
been made
in
the
book
entitled
The shape
further
to
of the
the
west
details
the
Indian plains,
is
sharper and
shows
more
than
from
Sandook-phu.
The
ac-
356
companying two
from
give
of such
views of
it
reproduce
outlines
much more
it,
photographs
which
the
took of
of the
when
foot
along the
The
shown
in the
With regard
"its
to the statement
is
that
summit"
writes
that the
is
Baboo "is
.
worthless
The
whence
my
it
still
must be
remembered
25,000
ft.,
some
would most
it."
so
happens that
visited in clear
in question.
was not
but the
the
it
Semo
pass, or in
Lepcha
"
Sema-rum
",
to the west of
Kang
will
359
by him
the lower
and
refer
to
several
other,
said
to
as
yet
unidentified, sacred
mountains
of
Tibet,
surpass
Everest
in
height.
who have
north
throw
light
on
this
question
region,
As
a celebrated climber
gradually
the
rarity
and
30,000 feet
than
does
at
inferior
have
world
in the
it,
be some
CHAPTER
frosted peaks of Chola gleamed Broken and bare and bold. On the glittering crest of Kanchen streamed The sunlight clear and cold. The fleeting clouds brief shadows flung On mighty Janooo's brow, or hung
'
The
On
Lay of Lachen.
The
the
outlying peaks
Rang-
with
all
its
attendant
I
discomforts
therefore,
and
insect-pests.
decided,
try
the
track
beyond
forest,
that point,
down
into
tropical
and only
last
apparently
had part of
this
ridge
beyond the
361
by Europeans, and
the greater
not at
all.
in a
we
went,
cleared up every
effects,
to give us
charming cloud
to Jor-pokree rich variety
than ever.
dells
The
the
mossy
dampness of
velvety
this
season,
begonias,
delicately
of gneiss.
the
leeches.
And
wild
No
less
after
is
was
still
showery
next day,
and
windy,
as
we
forest,
seed
wild rose
trees
berries blue
362
on to the almost
As we ascended
us
this
but no sight of
in ag-ain,
the
the
afternoon
the
rain
set
and
MY TAXIDERMISTS AT WORK.
with heavy wind continued
ing
all
we found
plenty to do in
Our coohes,
at
mostly Tibetan
pastimes and
Bhotiyas,
amused themselves
various
games of
strength,
including pitching at a
this last
the stone.
At
game,
in trying
out-throw
my
men,
my
back
some
hours.
We
were amused
363
the
faces
of
these
beardless
sons
of Tibet
eye,
and
Sikhim,
despite
their
MongoHan
to
cast
of the
several
features
absurd resemblances
clearly
Europeans.
One whose
to
call
suggested
"His
jawed
Lordship";
and
another,
and
deep-chinned,
spirits,
was so
that
of unvarying good
we
involuntarily christened
We
the
that
marched
to Faloot next
morning
(the
i8th), as the
weather
crisp views of
snows.
The
following morning
we witnessed
the
at Faloot
striking
aerial
phenomenon,
thin
Spectre
of
the
Brocken.
Wreaths of
mist
were
rising
and
hill
floating
around us as
we ascended
to see
us.
hung below
On
the
surface
of this
last
jected
centric
by the
widening
by
first
dazzling
then a rim
of brilliant
rainbow,
and
finally a
secondary
As we moved
this apparition
it
moved,
so
and
it
seemed
supernatural that
who was
carrying
my
it
once
an
Lamas say
that
it
is
omen
it,
ally
lasted
mist
364
lifted.
mist,
and
this
may have
the
light.
contributed
I
to
it
decomposition of
have seen
several times
when camping
at
the foot of the Himalayas, and in every case the sun was
low, and there was^ a rainy mist, both between myself
and
the
sun,
and
in
appeared.
Beyond
to
down
foreground to the
shot a wood-
of Pang-ka
(12,130
ft.),
it.
This
after
hill
is
maps
name
of this
that runs
is
the plains.
always
proper names
himself notes
and
it
is
especially so
when
the traveller
does not
know
are
men who
supply
his
information
not natives
of the
neighbourhood.
I
The
informant, was,
"The
for
the
Lepcha name
the
call
low-lying
and
insignificant part of
ridge
at
our
" Choiv-ba7ija7iy
As
that,
however,
is
is
depression
rather
as
than
hill,
it
and there
is
no
that
such
the
native
latter
name
name
"Singalelah,"'
pity
365
be
retained
for
this
Kanchen-junga,
as
which
forms
water-
parting:
the
streams
on
its
its
the
the Brahmaputra.
better
name would be
Senchal" spur.
On
the
cold
northern
slopes
of this
grassy
hill
the
rhododendrons
tangle, through
creep up to the
very
summit
in a
dense
some pine
of gneiss inter-
We
sighted
tracks
of the
as
we
dipped to 10,320
at the
gap of Chow-banjan
bhanjan
The Pass
in the
rooms", as
name means
Nepalese.
These plants
They
by
from their
in
but
we found
The
wooden
it
rest-house
relatively
state,
although
built
was
five
new,
for
had seen
it
being
it
only
or
six
in
years
before,
and already
was
tumbling to pieces
the
floor,
By
spreading
doors
down over
with
the
least
riddled
ominous gaping
where previous
we managed
to secure a corner
366
for
we had
A
the
down from
and
was surprised
to
Darjeeling
to
on a prolonged
considerable
that they
would each
return
to
have
pay a
poll-tax
on
their
with an
official in
had
lost
by entering
a sort of a re-initiation
ever
passed
beyond
this
point,
for the
some anxiety
as to
the track
Sherwill,
beyond
this place,
not only
because Captain
pass this
W.
who
in
1852 attempted to
way
to the snows,
had
to turn
back as he reported
valley
existing
which
he
could
by which
was
to go.
had
got,
however, for
in
this
my
part of Sikhim,
that
though the track was very rough and became more and
more rugged
as
we approached
the
still
it
was practicable
that
all
way up
to the
snows
and he added
we were
going.
367
for
the
very light
up
in
villages.
amongst
down
name
of " Sing-le."
was
like
walking
over spikes the greater part of the way, for miles; as the
is
up
at a sharp angle of
E.,
by the
made our
progress very
When we
boo (11,780
ascent,
with
the
I
its
tarns,
my
guide,
and
sat
down,
and
There was no
seemed
to
my
It
giddy
could
for
air,
was
per-
haps
in
ur rapid ascent,
combined
368
that glanced brightly in the blazing sun. For, after a short rest
(as
always had a
with
me
my
water-bottle)
I
and donning
my
dark goggles, a
pair of which
and
only
lifted
to give us glimpses
away down
The
under
hill
track
cliffs
ran
frontier,
of
"Lambi",
on the
map "Lampheram"
cliffs
the
deserted
grazing-station
called
"Tawa"
drains
down
Yang-wa,
misnamed "Changthap" on
Pass
the map.
we encamped
Hill,
at
a rock
Migo
my pedometer, which was trustworthy. On the way we met a few of that nomad
herdsmen, the Gooroongs, a
tribe of
Nepalese
and
live in
our larder,
and as
it
refused to
come
along, one of
my
coolies,
although already
it
in addition to
it
tied
to him.
369
We
had been
till
marching
all
day
in,
long,
though making
it
slow progress,
darkness set
and with
rain,
when
in the forest,
where we
for
the
night.
My men
built
up a ledge
my
down
precipitously for
;
some thousands of
feet at
an angle
of about 70
cheerfully
we were near
the
top
I
mile
down
baggy
the mountain.
tent
to
some
discomforts, for
my
leaked
badly as
properly,
and
proofs over
to shake
me
as
reclined,
and
to get
my
more
irritating
interesting.
And more
than
once
morning
it
glorious sunrise.
'
and
the
appeared
I
marvellously
upon the
top of
isolated conical
hill
hill
of Migo (13,250
the view
was much
370
the
the
The
track led
down
past
of Nego, a
flags
of fine-grained
gneiss
like
flat
hardened
of paving-stones,
lying almost
we descended
till
we
Yang-wa thence
;
the
path ascended a
fine
had a
shot at a
a bleak
'peak
rhododendrons
rocky
defile,
xiii "
from migo
(13,250).
like
bog-myrtle.
Still
further
tall
up
bare
weirdly
dotted
with
the
cones of the
ft.),
giant rhubarb,
we ascended
to the pass of
Ghara (14,000
my
shot the rare Himalayan giant wild sheep, the Ovis a7ninon
(in
Sikhimese
^^
as
musk-deer
This guide
(in
is
La-o'').
fine, dignified,
elderly man, a
good specimen
off his
of the hardy
Sikhimese
Bhotiya.
He
has taken
boots
He
shoots a
YAMPOONG AND
good deal
ITS
YAK-HERDS
when
371
the
down from
the
snowy
passes, and
sale.
He
gun
yesterday, with
my
He
points out as
we
their
healing
virtues
one
internally
" better
was so valuable
than
all
broken
limbs,
that
it
was
the
put together."
He gave me
and asked
piece
of turquoiseit
coloured
turquoise.
stone,
It
me
thought
was
really
On my
teUing him
this,
mass of
this
From
side
this pass
the Sikhim
of the
frontier^
undulating pasture
land,
often without
any
track, until
ft.,
we
reach
its
"The
Tiger
with
large tarn,
when
we curve round
now
should go.
is
But
at
who
the
headman
who
village
before,
it is
descend to
his
Yak
farm at Yamoff
poong,
although
our route,
and and
am
their
Tibetan herdsmen.
372
Yampoong
summer
lies
line
is
of perpetual snow.
It affords
and
well watered
flats,
by peren-
nial streams.
up
"'corries.'
When
the
winter
farther
sets
in
yaks
are
driven to
Ringbi.
warmer quarters
down
this valley
of the
The
is
of
which
the
headman's.
shingle
roof,
It
is
two-storeyed
stone
is
building
with
and the
upper
storey
winding
stair,
blazing on
it
his family.
for
my
his
brother
of
commenced
some water
for tea,
meal;
for
me.
had
to sit
on the
floor of
rough-hewn
I
logs, as
a table,
it
of the
neither
I
fire
caused
my
my
with sugar
(as
the
and
each
after tasting
he handto
ed
it
round
the
family
for
member down
the
373
menial
to
take
sip,
for these
This sweetened
SHAR-PA BHOTIYAS.
which was certainly different from their own salted and buttered
cious
;
brick
tea,
to
be
deli-
my
374
which
so.
They
The Yak-herds
are
for
is
Tibetans
who have
in
settled
some generations
in
Eastern Nepal,
the provinces
called
they are
voiced
known
like
as "Shar-pa Bhotiyas."
They
men
Their
the
Tibetans
in
general,
little
and dress
in the
like
them.
style.
women
usually dress a
Nepalese
They
done up
into a pigtail
and
their dress
is
a coarse woollen
weather
was
at
clear, I
ascended the
hill
some distance
to get a
peep
the
eastern
slopes of the
Kanchen
'
been
I
visited to
some extent by
for
several travellers
whereas
the
these
These two
of
Kanchen
'
can be reached
Several Europeans
1861,
and they,
like
him,
ACCESSIBILITY OF GLACIERS
eet
river
375
to
its
source
the
amongst the
glaciers
and
this is
now
certainly
much
just
on
this
route,
which
be
reached comfortably
in five to
lie
And
that
as
these
in
glaciers
amidst
scenery
the
have no doubt
visit
many
visitors
Darjeeling
will
gladly
them
when they
realize
how
ft.),
accessible they
now
are.
Jongri (13,140
which
this
is
a small
summer
yak-station
it
of two houses,
is
like
place
distant
about
eight
miles
N.
was
it
visited
by Dr.
He
to the
by the snow
(not
in the
W.
S.
who attempted
traveller to visit
He
visited
them
Kabru
visit
at the grazing-station of
in
Aluktang, which
'
the
Lamas
the
rains
to
"The grandeur
the
wildness
of the
(Praig)
surpasses
have elsewhere
On
376
else.
valley
moraine, a thou-
sand
feet
high,
ob-
seen
from
Im-
Darjeeling.
mediately on our
right,
rose a long
Kang (19,450
ft.),
and to the
PANDIM
from 1"ong-Shyong-Tam
which
rose
the
formidable
ft.
peak of
at the
Pandim,
22,015
in height,
to,
and many
in
wild
To
course
down
the broad
377
the
hills
on
either
side
covered
"
with
dense
fir
Mr.
Graham and
his
He
it
quite impracticable
dable peak.
other
three
On
are
the
west side
guarded by the most extraordinary overwhich quite forbid any attempt .... the
hanging
glaciers,
same applies
to Narsing
Lepcha,
"The
King's
is
To resume
goes on to say
debris
"
15,000
we found
nearly
where
it
is
upon,
dimensions, and
formed
the
base
the
of (Kabru
mountains
together
on
western
side
the
two
choking
feet or
more.
retaining
wall
to this
mass of
and debris
of highly
contorted
378
of
micaceous
schist,
coarse
granite
quartz
with
and
debris.
379
onwards,
of blocks
the
of ice
glacier
presented
perfect
invariably
covered
with
the
down from
by
avalanches,
with
little
way up
the
glaciers
meet,
we observed a
were
literally
small
hills
sizes,
masses
of
ice
and
snow,
avalanche,
the
hottest
cracking of the
during
of the
day ....
glaciers
100 broad,
confined a third
descending
from
Kochirang-Kang,
ft.).
south-eastern
probably 20,000
side,
then
descending by the
mountain
mile
length,
the
of masses
of ice
steps
one
masses of
ice
and snow
from
the
it
is
scarcely
possible
conceive.
Descending
glacier,
we
proceeded
and
over
frozen
snow,
when we
arrived
at
the
fourth
38o
and
On
extremity of
this glacier,
he arrived
the
Gtiicka, or
"The Locked
it
pass"
so
called, as the
legend
has
it,
because
spells of a saintly
Lama.
this
Guicha pass
found
'
is
thus described
by
We
ourselves
standing
on the
watershed
between
Kanchen
to the south
ft.
and west.
16,430),
to
We
were
at
an
of about 18,500
(?
ceeded
farther,
ranges to the
The
snow
a
in its
mile
formation
is
probably of
not
20 to 25 to the
ing point of
fact
its
Others
may
determine the
but
is
interest-
geological
structure,
this
important
was
elicited
namely,
that
Kanchen'
detached from
group, and that
Kanchen
into the
'
none of
as
its
way
Great Rang-eet,"
Hooker supposed.
The
this
south-eastern
glacier
of Kanchen'
to the north of
31st,
pass
was
visited
1883.
He
feet,
writes:
"We
16,000
and descended
KANCHEN-JUNGA
SOUTH-EAST FACE
feet).
383
small
tarns,
to
the great glacier, which flows almost due east from Kanchen'.
Right
above
us
rose
the
towering
crags
of Siniolchum
we were
absolutely surrounded
by the snowy
giants."
The stupendous
beautifully
also seen.
ft.)
is
iikeiy to
384
south
of the
Zemu
"Gap, 19,300
feet", look
more
hopeful
and
in the
Chamonix.
at
Here,
the
too,
obviously
Grand
Plateau "
base of
'
do not
call
it
The peak
runs east
and west
like
From
as
it
make
the ascent,
it
overhung
in
two or three
places.
From
the north
is
ice at a
mean angle
of 50 and
ft.
of rise".
The
the
north-eastern
of
Kanchen
is
'
which descends
Zemu
long, which
The
main
geological position of
axis
Kanchen
'
is
obviously in the
lies
of the
right
angles to this
slopes
line,
northeryi
Still
flows
directly
down
into
the
Indian
plains.
Kanchen', nevertheless,
may be
regarded as
lying
upon,
of,
its
the south
385
present
water-parting
finding
may be
its
accounted for by
in
northern
drainage
left
the
main
axis,
by
;
interruptions
which
elevated the
Himalayas
become
further
such
as
the
to pierce the
main chain
my map
on
p.
349),
Tsang-po
itself
upheaval of the
more or
less parallel.
The middle
of these lines or
Kanchen by Jannu
'
to Everest etc.
The
Northern
side of the
Tsang-po and
Upper Indus
valleys
The
Tendong, Lingtu
".
etc.,
Himalayas
stone
hills,
And
^^
the
to
Doon by
Someshwar
vS^^i^-Himalain referring
we would
The rocky
or
386
the
seen
in
Kanchen
',
seems to consist
in
mainly
crests^
latter
granitic
rock
and quartz
the loftier
and of
through which
gneiss
been extruded.
Some
and
The
(28,150
is
called
it
of the
popular
name
of this
mountain
in too
junga
literally, "
it
of the
its
is
physically descriptive of
five
When, however,
mountain-god he con-
verted these five "repositories" into real storehouses of the god's treasure, and the god himself was represented as a form of the Buddhist God-of- Wealth, as
this
is
way
by the
rising
and
setting sun,
whitened
The worship
387
Buddhist period,
is
pomp
every
of the devil-
dancing;
in the
or Shamanist kind.
The Lamas
dress themselves
so
called
ritual
of the devil-
dancers,
as
our
friend, the
us,
so hospitably
entertained
seated in
of money,
jewellery
etc.,
to defray the
this
mountain
is
Kong-lo-cJiii, or
388
It
Mr.
W. Graham made
his
and
also of the
Kang-La
pass.
and
calculated
that
in
that
distance
of forty-two
ft.
as the
crow
flies,
and
descended
some
ft.).
16,000
vertical
height to reach
Jongri (13,140
In
the
second
visit
in
(21,400
ft.).
Of
1883,
this
he
"Early
on the
lies
30th
September,
diately
suitable
we
which
immea
east
of our
well
camp.
At
2 p.m.
we had reached
place,
there.
think
least
18,000
may be
taken
i.e.
as correct.
at 4-30,
We
got
off at earhest
and
settled
down
to
our
at
once,
order,
is,
good
a great pace.
He
be the he
and
this
fairly
surpassed himself.
The
glacier
We
peak
itself,
we were
forced to take to
place,
which greatly
389
till
we reached
us.
some 300
feet
above
We
now
turned northwards
along the
the rocks.
slopes
of the
glacier
but exceedingly
steep
slope
li
This
Hima^^
owing
work."
be
Kabru,
24,015
feet
the
ascent
of which,
if
proved,
has
is
ascent
thus
by himself:
the
"On
the third of
October we
examined
carefully
east
of Kabru,
and
made
all
On
the 6th
we
finally
started,
glacier of Kabru.
On
its
Up
us
have seen,
clifif
fully
800
ft.,
brought
of Kabru.
we
the mist.
Heavy snow
fell,
were.
it.
We
face
of the
intending,
at
if
possible, to
camp on
the
summit.
This
off
we reached
were cut
390
so
we were on
coolies
slope,
a detached buttress.
We
descended,
met the
steep
ascending,
finding
at
snow
small
tent.
Whymper
camp we
18,500
ft.
The
night,
of
descending
before.
We
were
off next
morning
us.
at
4-30,
and found
first
once
all
The
half-
very
A
to to
funnel,
crowded with
loose,
had
be passed.
The snow
the
greatest
was
lying
just
ready
slide,
and
possible care
had
to
of the
true
peak.
of
most
ten
At
ft.
we were
,000
eastern
summit.
short snack,
is
and then
ice, at
came
angle
pure
an
Owing
to the
heavy
coating
we
cut.
am
ing,
and
in cold
blood
this state
Kaufifman led
the
above
all
sea-level.
"The
glories
of the
compare.
391
pointed
it
out to
in
Boss, the
who had
world.
'
never seen
it
as the
highest mountain
replied;
That
cannot be/ he
'those
far
are
higher'
towered
was astonished,
we were
all
agreed that
in
unknown
course,
peaks,
Of
such an
such a height,
objects
appear
in
their
true
proportions,
How-
we had a
have seen.
We
went
at
it,
and
after
by
three gashes,
and
little
into
The
and
absolute
rose
ently
it,
summit was
more than a
above us
of
ice,
some
still,
but, independ-
of the
extreme
time.
difficulty
we had no
bottle
was
and we had
give
there
to
snow might
the rocks and
way
at
any moment. At
a huge
we reached
and
fixed
at ten.
Bhotiya
flag,
finally
turned into
difificult,
camp
rather than
difficulties
enormously increased."
392
Commenting on
to
ascent,
Sir
Martin
Conway
writes
me: "The
in
question
is
mountain
sensations,
Sikhim
His recorded
and those of
with
It
liis
and
members of
after
Survey
with
whom
he conversed shortly
his
with
the
an ascent of Kabru.
The
natives
it
another and
much lower
peak.
24,000
feet
on the
top.
Knowing
as
we now
aneroids
that his
not
is
known, how
behave
at
high altitudes,
this
a further proof
feet
less
than
24,000
height.
veracity.
All
this
implies no
attack
He
for
carried
no instruments,
no
observations
position.
He
merely
is
that the
easier than to
make
a case.
It is
only
when an
by a
either
observer's
series
of observations,
and
altitude
measured
mercurial
is
possible
to
be
sure
where
difficult
he has been.
Mr.
Graham
it
doubtless
in
climbed a
opinion,
but
cannot,
my
like
the
altitude of
Kabru.
(a ridge
Your suggestion
that
it
Kang-tsen
393
Kabru,
2,000
ft.
worthy of con-
sideration."
Colonel
Tanner,
who has
appears to have
demanded by
in the light
think
it
very probable
what he ascended.
He would
never have
its
table-land
ner's
is
drawing
is,
395
feature
I find,
denoted
Lepcha name
for
"Kabru",
which means
This point
visit
"The
is
my
to
next chapter.
CHAPTER
XI
TO KANG PASS FOR THE WESTERN GLACIERS OF KANCHENJUNGA AND FOR JANNU NEPALESE JEALOUS
EXCLUSIVENESS
Whilst something
of the
eastern
is
thus
known of
glaciers
is
peaks
and
of the Kanchen-junga
known of
the western,
visited
by Europeans.
travelled
to
in
For Hooker,
Eastern Nepal,
only European
who has
passed
see
has
quoted.
In
my
attempt to see
little
the peaks,
the
is
by
Col-
onel
Tanner,
in
experienced
much
difificulty
getting a
guide to
395
the
Nepalese
side
of the
range,
as
the
natives
of
these parts dread the pains and penalties that the Nepalese
rulers inflict
on
all
who impart
peans
in gaining information,
people.
(the
Waloong
to
Walloon-choon of Hooker)
at
Nepal,
the
who chanced
tracks
well,
be
was
prevailed
guide us
C^N'^
of Kauclien'.
B, Bl.
Kabru.
over,
valleys.
On
in
I set
out from
Yampoong
company with
guide
who
like his
own rugged
hills,
were
camp.
for
the
baggage or
for the
The
paving-stones,
as
this
stratified
rock was
We
passed on the
way a rude
396
trap
a snow-leopard.
It
yak,
for
catching
birds.
Only
was
and intended
the
devil
tigress
which lived
its
a cave
on
who gave
tiger,
name
fiend
to the pass. It
in
was no ordinary
and
it
earthly
but
that form;
killed all
who came
spells
Lama
and
by
his
banished
devil,
and now
in the pass, to
commemorate
this
happy
event.
On
past
penetrating the
several
plants
pass
(14,900
giant
ft.),
our track
wound
of the
about
veins
1I/2
miles,
meated
by
of
quartz,
call-
ed
ite
"The
Falling
Rock" {Dang-bya
my
guide.
Here
went
the
track to
see on the
left
pag-med
Nepalese
Tso),
call
it
and reputed
gems
the
"The Lake
corner
to
of
Good Luck"
north,
at
{Luckee-pokree).
Rounding
the
the
Oma
Pass
397
we came suddenly
into snow,
and a magnifi
with
Kabru seemed
quite
was
within
fast
clouding
over
ankle
got
my
camera ready,
had sprained
my
I
slightly,
Still
of the
Kang
pass.
steep
descent
of about
down through
of Tibetan brigands.
the
traders
and
others
who
threaded the
398
narrow
them,
left
gorge
by
rolling
down
rocks upon
and
then
rushing
out and
despatching
any
still
alive.
They had
who
kept
movements,
who were
efforts
required
the
conjoint
for
Nepal and
Darjeeling
some years
disperse
I
them.
my-
tree
on the Nepal
frontier
little
where one of
thinking that
before,
should ever
visit
still
Several of
the
band were
who pointed
was
still
unsafe
to
on
this
others
had
go
this
From
this
dark
defile
of the brigands
we emerged on
"
Gamo-tang, or
The Level
water of
Mead"
the
little
(12,550
ft.),
crystal
Rathong
river
fringed
tent
and sedges.
pitched
my
my men
cliffs
took possession.
This
small
meadow was
sunshine.
On
all
sides
bold rugged
GAMOTANG AND
ing snow,
light.
ITS
LOST TALISMAN
like mirrors in
399
glittered
and gleamed
the sunseveral
And
by
cascades that
granite
pines, a
cliffs,
thousand feet
now
so desolate,
my
friend of
Yampoong
of the
his
fields
grandfather's
but
the
The
had miracuIt
hillsides.
was
and
it
the Mascotte.
all
When
this
the
people
who
dead
beasts,
and
village, died.
There-
fled,
in
mahgnant
returned
No one
is
many
only occupied
as
I
went
after
that
heard
During
my
the
killed,
and amongst
reserved
for
heart,
400
At night
of the
dusk,
to
so
as
not to reveal
came
my
men
as sentries.
door inside
In
I
this
rough exposed
life,
it
is
needless
to say
that
had
for
My
my
bed consisted
my
gun.
pillow
and alongside
me were
his
laid
revolver and
it
down
him on a corner of
he should,
my
couch,
I felt
some
misgivings
the
lest
in a night-mare,
mistake
me
in
dark
for
one
of
the
dreaded
I
robbers.
The
night,
by the day's marching, and was only awoke once by the high wind shaking the
tent.
or twice
At daybreak
slight
snow had
stiff
as
fell
dead
my
tent, the
men seemed
to
to leave
and
him, and
if
SNOWED TO DEATH
Fording the
towards
to
its
401
stream
on
boulders
and following
it
up
we
rose, in
half,
up out
of the
The
it
lay,
lonely
hut
of
Bogto,
was
told,
the
young
month
later
in
the
season than
we had come.
heavy
died here
of starvation.
Some
bones were
still
strewn about the place, and their skulls had been made,
by
my
guide, into
drums
for
summoning
the devils.
Pursuing
our
track
we passed through
cutting
by
the
wind,
be found,
it
was
said,
but few or no
that
grew
We
passed
several
named
accordingly.
They
spirits.
Near these
last
few
26
402
flowers
feet.
Queen of
The
opposite
side
its
Hill "
{Takits
and certainly
its
crest
tiger.
The body
covered
the
by the black
lichen-
granitic
gneiss,
white
veins
of granite
disintegrating
granite
crags above.
And
a columnar form-
and paws.
The
Bogto,
glacial
broad
formation,
latter
on our
right.
This
blocks
rocky
basin
of which,
uncovered by bronzing
lichens,
must give
this
was
called "
The
md)
and from
large
its
several
spots
This peculiar
403
to
its
its
dark-blue bed.
in
It
was evidently a
formed
the
moraine of a glacier
which had come down from the Kang-La peaks, but which
was such
as
is
rarely
met
The
smooth face
abutted
into
of the projecting
to our
left,
which had
404
level.
The
spirits
of this haunted
lake
shipped by
my
as
men. These
spirits, said
who
occasionally
or
appeared to
mild
men
in the
form of furious
bull-yaks,
mermaids who
So
whilst
my men
ft.
were
I
praying to the
deities
of the
lake
The
14,600
above
in
somewhat triangular
fall
its
further
several
Edelweiss
bleak banks.
stiffish
The
for
pass
(15,950
ft.)
was reached by a
chmb
rocks
yet
none
of us
suffered
air,
rarefied
Momay
which had
tried us all so
much.
at the top
were
with
side;
a rugged knife-edge,
the
most precipitous
this
and
also
ridges
The weathering
the Nepalese
away abruptly on
leaving jagged
for
down
the Nepal-
405
Thence we descended
a mile
it
the
precipitous
slope,
picking our
was
marvellous
to
see
how
and
the
laden yaks
lumbered
along
over
these rocks,
were formi-
human
pedestrian.
The yak
poise
itself
with
arched body,
and
all its
the patient
beast circumvented
In
sharp
as
curves
is
by a
lie
series
of wriggles.
said to
here
by the Indian
tra-
Baboo Sarat
C.
Das
is
unfounded.
From
view up
needles
Several huge
traced with snow, soared into the air Hke cathedral spires
granite
full
more.
We
stone-shoots
(14,650
after five
ft.)
to
the
other
side
of the valley,
spur,
and thence,
the
valley
we gained
of the
Yaloong
extensive views
down
4o6
The
group,
with
its
most
prominent
peak
"No. XIII
these peaks
seemed
of the
to be far
below
us.
And
through the
deep
cleft
Arun
river, I
of Tibet,
including
alleged to
And
At
spur where
it
the
Tang-La, or "Terrible pass" (Bhairav-Langur), which Hodgson identified with Everest, which, however,
farther to the S.
is
fifty
miles
E.
views
is
so
little
known, even
divisions,
in regard to
I
its
broad
in
territorial
and
tribal
that
have embodied
by
my
guide.
The upland
Arun
river
and the
glacial "
milky "
Kosi
river,
{Doodh-Y^osx,
is
corruption
or
of the
Tibetan Dud-tsi)
its
called
Khoomboo
is
Khumbu, and
The
inhabitants
of Tibetan stock.
half,
purest of these
which
is
The southern
^^Skar-pa'' or
^^
half or "5<?/^-Khumbu"
peopled by the
Sher-pa'' tribe,
whom we
407
who
are
slightly
Hindooized
by contact with
the
Kiranti
tribe
neighbours,
but they
The
Rong-Shar
also
seem
of
be called 'Shar-pa",
other
The approximate
I
distribution
the
Bhotiya
tribes
and Limboo
countries.
In
I
regard to the
got from
also
my
guide
some
interesting
geological
Fossils,
so
rare on the
of the
uncommon on
the northern.
Arun
fossiliferous
limestone,
ochre, which the people use for decorating their houses. Also,
still
further north
at Jang-lache
are found
embedded
amulet-box.
And
the
north
the
found
by Hooker on
the
pass,
in
Ladak,
4o8
in very-
to
have
far
southwards,
open
like
ocean to the
east.
As
my
reticent
supposed treasure-houses
near some of
He had been
strongly guarded
ally
by
troops,
worked.
They
"sky-stone")
below the
line of perpetual
snow.
The
Tibetan
rock-salt
The ordinary
whilst
rusty sort
the
lakes,
the
purer kind
picked up
in
large
crystals
We
down
"The
Spoonful
feet,
oi'^^X.&x''^ yChoo-lok-iiyd), dX
an elevation of 14,100
of rocks, over which
we
we clambered
about a mile,
till
we
reached
point
at
under the
yards
;
rocks
shewed
on the surface
for a
few
409
high,
that
had
fallen
The
The
And
scant
overhead,
blast
the
sent
down a
our
bitter
of icy-cold glacier
fire
on
us,
which
to
shelter
and poor
of faggots
did
little
relieve.
called the
Yet,
even so desolate
region
as this,
is
guarded by
So
far,
when he
our
last
developments have
occurred.
his fancied
by
this track
we
having been
about three
district for
was restored
to
this
returned
the
new
capital at Gantok,
to a considerable-sized village.
still
however,
with
vention
of which
like
has
in
ended,
4IO
fiasco.
set up,
Yatoong
no
fact that
still
there,
and
more
war.
For
this
it is
all
Lama-
of Lhasa.
But
at
it
is
the
doubtedly
who
are
the
bottom
all,
and they
merely
are
all
make
a cat's-paw
of the Lamas.
The Tibetans
not unfriendly to
as well as to
political
power
there,
and
sinister influence
Lhasa
in
instigating
opportunity
has been
of
Hue onwards.
So
evident,
Count
"
"
d' Alviella,
remarked
it
many
years ago.
He
wrote
On
sait
Gouvernement Chinois.
aux Anglais que
c'est
"A
" uniquement
des
Lamas
413
in
"
Your
our
" state
of
Sikhim
borders
on
Tibet. are
You know
You
bound
Yet
it
to prevent the
is
entirely
your
for
" fault
"
thanks
in
to
the
roads
which
them
Sikhim
that
" If
you continue
to act thus,
fulfil
will
" Henceforth
" the
you must
your
and obey
commands
of Grand
those of the
Yet notwithstanding
this
recognised
it
deceit
this
of China,
over
very question,
the
their old
excuse
blaming
Lamas
sacrifice
obtaining
any
solid
recompense
for
the
great cost of
more
the
development of
of
gold,
undoubted trade
in
possibilities in the
export
wool,
etc.
exchange
for
British
and Indian
goods.
critical
The
again,
situation,
however,
that
must eventually
it
become
and
in
event
would
its
be
far better
to
deceit
and
false
A
the
"national party"
is
414
movement which
moral and
political
he
is
now
SUITE.
of Orleans
fully
and
at a point
zveek's journey
In
talking
of the
Chinese,
when
troops had
held
Pekin,
Hke the
official
whom
IN
LHASA
415
but
quite
so
successfully
But
sations
many
interesting conver-
had with
if
this enlightened,
lives,
kindly man,
who
in
seems destined,
he
to play
an important part
As we came along
towards Tibet by
fled,
my men
for a
Morning broke
fiercely cold
I
with 5 Fah. of
frost,
and
to
The
traders'
to
the
characteristic
name
La), or
ft.
Semarum
At
the
as the
I
Lepchas
at
an elevation of 15,370
summit
to find absolutely
no trace
of the
Baboo Sarat
no snow
tips
C. Das.
There was
in this pass,
except the
to the west,
bachen.
the
To
north
and east
all
the
snowy peaks of
4i6
my
and
then
got
magnificent
not
marred
by
single cloud.
The
wildness
and majesty of
this
panorama was
awful.
The western
rose
side of the
could see
their
within
it,
its
ice-falls,
From
this
saw, above
and
Kang-
La Nang-ma,
which
but
is is
or
"The
not a pass at
as
has
hitherto
been
stated,
only, according to
neve,
this,
my
snow and
where no
rose
trafific
ever goes.
Above
the knife-edge
peak of Kang-tsen on
And
certainly
it
to
be
the
for
long ridge of
27
419
"Kaboor")
fell
away lower
in the per-
of the
valley,
which
blocked out
from
my
Kanchen-junga
itself
cliff
The
tip
of Jannu, or
it,
estimat-
in
appearance
its
like that of
Mont Cervin
in the rising
it
gleamed with
warty knobs
called
My men
Kanchen-
or
'-'The
it
because
As
it
to the
possibility of climbing
east,
is
Mr. Graham,
who saw
from the
says
"
think
it
is
an enormous glacier
before
at
traversed
it
when
there
would be very
is
obviously impassable."
West of Jannu,
lion's
a sharply
serrated
"
snowy peak
like a
me
The
Glacial
is
Goddess of Me-
dicine",
It
an object of worship.
Whilst,
seems to
it,
"Choonjerma" of Hooker.
tip
behind
was
called
Tang-tong-Kang, apparently
west,
"Nango"
of
Hooker.
Further
beyond
this,
Yangma and
west were the
peaks.
further
Khoombu and
Everest group of
The northern
cliffy
face of Everest
420
and precipitous,
but the
shown
in
the
accompanying sketch
was not
ranges in
visible,
it
my
middle distance.
The compass-bearings
of
perpetually
~^>^/
/,',r'jf^^Sf^
421
now be more
p.
intelligible
from
my
foregoing photograph
on
to
it
on
p. 416.
He
wrote:
the three
we took
Kangla
is
The summit
of the pass
some 17,000
and
is
glacier,
higher.
We
turned
to
which flows
junga.
in a beautiful
one of the
Due
hugh masses of
glacier
now but
lightly
North, Jannu
showed
its
awful southern
while west,
snow and
small
night
8
(?)
and easy as
compared with
neighbours.
The
in the
Himalayas
being the
minimum reading
Imboden and
I
interesting scramble
of
some
five
hours and a
offered
any serious
and
at
10.15
we were
clouded,
at
the
summit.
Though
the
we
ft."
422
have placed
in itahcs,
in
the
beUef that
it
was Kabru
in direction
and physical
Mr. Graham
is
who
turies
ago.
And
the
in a
hermitage here,
the worship of
this
Kanchen
He
pass
is
said to
in
western
side
of the
a cave
Kam-pa
Kha-brag, and
tak), so
Monkey's-back Rock
its
" {Preu-gyab-
named
with reference to
outline, as suggesting
a sitting monkey.
My
the
village
had hoped
to
have been
up
Kanchen
I
'
without
in
sighting
any Nepalese
villages; but
now,
I
found that,
the
guard-post
of Tseram,
strong probability of
my getting
discovered
and the
political
than
I,
as a
Government
official,
could
risk.
It
was exas-
423
in
reaching
thus
a
far,
and penetrating
more than
track
Himalayas, namely,
its
amphi-
Jannu (25,300
ft.)
and the
ft,).
curving crests of
It
is
Kanchen (28,153
ft.)
to
Kabru (24,015
to
in
may
soon be relaxed, as so
many
interesting geographical
solution
and
especially
the
country that
is
thus
closed
in
against Europeans
influence
and
its
Government
on the
friendliest
terms
Until
commenced
we had been
clinging,
It
had not
realised
how
had
to
be held
by my men
it
when
stretched out to
was
latter
frozen granite,
splinters.
As we descended, some
yawning abyss below.
and
fell
into the
424
could
young
on the
Lama who
dress
for,
Kintoop had
built
it
said they, no
been
there
before
stopped
human
thigh-bone
the
spirit
of that
monarch of
mountains, Kanchen-Junga.
As we
of the
after
down
the
Semo
pass, several
beautiful
cry)
their
were
calling
left.
a
I
which
their
bare mountain
On
my
gun
his
collector
brought
me
splendidly
plumaged Monal
his
pheasant in
in the other,
and
burst.
gun
it
had
He was
escape.
their
rusty
more
to
fall
frequent.
Slight
that
to
425
nowhere
to
be found
these
when
in
food
the
it,
the
of grass
rocks.
to
The yak-herd
whether
it
after looking
fallen
it
see
had not
over a precipice in
seek
its
behind at the
this
had happened,
the
we approached
pass
we heard through
near
the
foot
of the pass,
much
herd
who had
beast's burden.
The
for
pass
freshly fallen
too,
snow
fallen
little,
had
on the other
cock's
dell of
weird lake of
"The
Pea-
Tail ".
Gamotang, embowered
grateful
wooded
hills,
and presenting
such
we had come.
fire
to find a blazing
in
the
collected
by our two
left
behind,
of
whom
In
now
rose
the
morning, which
that
and sunny,
in the
went
after
some pheasants
I
were calling
woodlands,
and
got two
fine
four partridges as
426
the
bag.
which
snared sake
so
abundant
and
of their In
for
export.
the
many
as a
thousand skins
My men
were
delighted
at
the
prospect of returning
regions,
and started up
hill
and
lighter
loads as
we had eaten up
our stores.
And
as
we
re-crossed
"The
Pass of
cliffs
Devil",
the
young Lama
collected
Buddha,
Some
the
zest
was added
down
we saw
way ahead
of
we
passed.
ft.).
We
It
was
rock,
and
was
dry,
with
little
wind,
From my
my men
seemed
^^K
BACK TO CIVILIZATION
weird and spectral-like as they
flitted
429
in the
about
lit
gloom,
up
their features
with
its
lurid
glare.
It
is
many good
traits,
after all.
is
heaviest,
their
good
each
this
civilization.
moun-
needed
and
in
this
amidst
magnificent scenery,
quaint experiences,
time,
we go on gathering
till
fresh trophies
for
and
our tents
are
struck
the last
civi-
and we return
to the
lization.
And
as
we
our genial
fellow-travellers
and
silver
our
train races us
down
vision
of Kanchen-junga
realize
that these
APPENDIX
NOTES TO THE TEXT
1.
Dr.
Hooker was
the
first
European
to explore
the
Eastern border of Nepal scientifically, and he did this woi'k with such
fulness of
knowledge
that his
(Sir)
Joseph
D. Hooker, M.D., 2
Vols., 1854,]
of Sikhim
is
restricted
Sikhim which
still
rule,
and
it
upon a few
being
the
my
contributions
and on
Dr. Buchanan-Hamilton's
Account
of Nepal
(1820)
and
Brian
Hodgson's
Essays
contain
Tibet
and
Mr.
to
Saunders'
compilation
Himalayas
refer
incidentally
to
Pioneer " gives in her Indian Alps a vague account of a short ramble
in the outer ranges of the
on Sikhim
2.
have
some of
the chief
in a
way
themselves, which
junga,''''
many
''
for "Kinchinjinga"
Rang-eei" fov
^^R.a.Q]eet"j^^
etc.
C/ioong-tang"
for
"Cheungtong",
Sandook-phu^'' for
"Sundakfu"
3.
W.
p. 393.
432
4.
APPENDIX
The name
native of this place, " Siligoori ", I find,
tribe
means
it
in
tlie
patois of the
Kocli
"The Stony
the
Site",
foi'
is
wliich
pebbles
from
muddy
5.
Delta of Bengal.
this
proselytized to
Mohammedanism,
the Nashyas.
There are
Mech river are to be found a few survivoi's of those semi-aborigines who have given their name to this river, which divides the Terai or Morang of vSil^liim from that of Nepal.
on
the
bank of
6.
This,
thinlc,
is
name
(namely "Sik/2im"
as
to
it
is
sometimes misspelt in
me
seem
to
series
of
crests.
The
aborigines,
Nelyang or
or "
7.
"The Place of Caves", while the Tibetans The Country of Rice and Fruit ", as
Edwin Arnold's Light of
Everest,
after
it
Den-Jong oy Demo-j'ong^
Sir
Asia,
the
II,
42
43.
mountain was named, when
8.
Colonel
whom
great
of the
to
local
attraction
it
exercised
endeavoured
the
sixty
minimize
observation
as
Archdeacon
Pratt,
who took up
about 1852,
showed
than
this
that
amount of
and published
Trattsactions
of
the
g.
Royal
62.
etc.
10.
"Twenty
Years'
1889.
Eleusincz crocana.
APPENDIX
13.
433
this
part of
He
and
schists,
" Baling''
after
a place
of that
name
Darjeeling
14.
disti-ict.
This custom, as
{jfour,
Tlie less-known
Hindoo
title
of this Nepalese
name
for
them
is
''
Lap-che''\
which
neighbours,
fashionable
own
tlie
Hindoo
latter
dialect of
hence these
name
to them.
This tribal
name is curiously paralleled in the case of the "Welsh". According to Canon Taylor ( Woi-ds and Places^ p. 67) this is a similar derisive term
applied by the neighbouring Saxons and meaning the "Jabberers".
17.
The
The word Kazi seems to me to be boiTowed through the Mahomedan rulers of India, and to be the Persian word Kazi or Kadi^ a magistrate, a name familiar to the readers of
Pendom.
Nights''''.
the ''Arabian
Other
titles
thus adopted
Siibah^ a governor;
and y?^^^
^ay^aa^2/r
order
headman, Gya-p'dn or
to
Pi-pe7z.
W.
Calcutta.
19.
1895.
species,
is
20.
The
description of this
new
named
thus
after
me by
Mr.
W.
Ogilvie
"Like G.
superciliary stripe grey, not white; ear coverts pale buff, with blackish
shaft-stripes instead of black, or black streaked with white;
and the
it
tail
is
rather
ashy;
whereas in
G. pectoralis
28
434
broadly
feet.-'
APPENDIX
tipped with white. Habitat. Rungeet (Rangit) Sikhim, 4,000
The
type specimen
is
in the Britisli
''Gazetteer
skins
of
are in
my
21. 22.
Museum
of Glasgow University.
Malay
Mai'or
described
the
mechanism of
these
bridges in the
Journal
23.
my
''
in the
Gazetteer
24.
of Sikhim, p. 24
etc.
who
25.
26.
In Tibetan Dorje-pag-mo.
W.
T. Blanford's
4th,
Mammalia of
1S97.
British India.
W.
B. Tegetmeier in Field^
September
27.
28.
29.
Ceremo72ial l7istittUioizs
Hooker's yoiirnals,
Captn.
II,
p. 48.
An
W.
S.
30.
coin
I
in
three minutes
and was
faintly
it
to litmus paper.
And
had
Total
.
Lime and
Silica.
l6'38
per gallon
Calcium carbonate
Chlorine
2*08
0'I4
free
Ammonia,
do.
Nitrates
31. 32.
0"00I4
0'00o8
ti'aces.
albuminoid
and Sulphates
II.
Himal. yournals,
yo-diid-tse,
p.
116. also
which may
33.
On
p.
Proc. Royal
Geographical Society^
(1879), pp.
588. A. Wallace in
Darwinism,
34.
416.
p. 407,
35.
APPENDIX
36.
SIl-lo
is
435
37.
871.
in part in
38.
Published
in
the
the Proc. Roy. Geog. Society for Sept. 1892, p. 613, etc.
39.
Report on Locusts by
also the illustration
is
E. Cotes,
derived.
40.
The
remarlcable
local
to
differencies
Himalayas,
precipitating
due
the
the
intervention
are
of
elevated
mountain
ridges
I'ain-clouds,
am
Government of Bengal.
Rainfall
i7i
436
42.
APPENDIX
''Do oars"
These
on the
Buxar
frontier
that of
are
the
The
other
seven
on the corresponding
frontier of
Asam.
''
43.
This
is
to
me
tribe
to
be a vestige
of the
in
this
(see
my
articles
and
1898).
See
map on
p. 349.
is
Goorkha-nath,
45.
46.
Detailed in
Yule's
my
47.
Marco
Polo^
220.
"On
writes
notorious
poisoning sheep
and
Nature", 40,
New
England.
Some
of the
Himalayan rhododendrons
48.
"Antivenene".
at least four
49.
occur
The most
is
stems turn.
feet,
A, luridtini
is
about 14,000
and has
shaped leaves
8
of
10,000
feet.
The two
species hetero-phyllum
confined
to
the
Western Himalayas.
The former
atees"
APPENDIX
50.
437
map
(appearing
on
p. 349)
and
is
map was
Palgo lake.
51.
My Buddhism
The
of
382
f.n.,
430.
52.
"Pangu"
pass (see
Map
in preceding note
No. 50 where
this
name
to
is
86,
He
no
full
details
this
seem
pass,
mentions that he
outline
saw from
20
to
30
feet
high and
53.
loc. cit.
54.
to
this ridge
W.
Shervvillj Messrs.
438
and possibly
Mr.
p.
APPENDIX
"A
as
Lady Pioneer".
{Records
Baboo
P.
N. Bose accompanied
India^
White
etc.)
geologist
Geological Survey
XXIV.
46
55.
p. 457 etc. The words and sentences have been added by me, in order to render the narrative
more
56.
intelligible.
loc.
cif.
57.
Semo
or
Semarum
pass,
which on
the
my map should be marked three-eighths end of my route as given therein, were: S. Peak of Khumbu Kang-nga-rawa
Peak No. XIII
Everest
of an inch
N.N.W. from
282
293
W.
E.
296
Middle Peak of
Lamo Kang
353
10.
Jannu
Kabur,
S.
Peak
47
68.S
,
3;
77
98
INDEX
INDEX
Abor
tribe, 95, 329.
of, 99, 324-,
Aconite, poison
of, 435-
species
Annexation, English policy of, 148. Antelope, Tibetan, 225. Antivenene, my researches on,
325, 435-
Air,
rarefied,
185,
187;
alarming
of,
Apricots, 167.
Ararat, a Sikhimese
Mt,
iii.
1,34.
Arums,
260.
Arun
river, 120;
andLimboos,
149.
Amban,
Assessment, primitive, 106. Atmosphere, pressure of, 187, 221. Avalanche of rocks, 198.
Ayu
Yaks, 169.
B
Badamtam, 68, 74. BamboOj bridges of,
260; jugs, 74; uses
of,
247
people
giant,
of, 249,
259
forts, 243,
289 British,
;
294.
136, 162.
243, 245.
curious
hot,
239;
in
hot
Bis-cobra, 82.
springs, 202.
Blanford,
W.
T.,
viii,
58.
77, 426; great yellow, 223. Beer^ Himalayan, 74; in Tibet, 212.
mauled by,
338-,
of, 48.
Bhim Tal
Bogto, legend of, 401. Bones, sash of carved human, trumpet of human, 424. Bonvalot, M., 414.
no;
442
Boodhist, see Buddhist.
INDEX
Buddhas,
Buddhist,
living,
140,
45, 47,
75, 76;
priests,
^
bloody
sacrifices,
Brick-tea, 248.
113, 216.
Bridges, cane, 123, 131; cantilever, 166; rope, 124', snow, 234 ; delay-
at great altitudes,
402;
ed by broken,
Buckwheat,
284.
161.
breeding ground of, 298; mimicking dead leaves, 114. Buxar, 247.
Campbell,
Dr.
39;
A.
Founder
of
in, 189-,
Darjeeling,
N.W.^
188;
traverse
of, 228.
Choomolhari peak,
Choonabati,
Chorten,
23.
33, 278.
Camping under
mechanism
of,
Choongtang monastery,
64, 69.
161, 230.
Canes, rattan, 166. Cantilever bridges, 167. Cairn, of dead fellow-traveller, 194, 195; worship of the, 115.
Chough
crow, 204.
365.
Chowbanjan,
Caravan, our,
Cave, bivouac
63.
Cinchona plantations,
Citrons, wild, 129.
Chffs, crossing,
298.
Chabab
Chakoong,
on ladders,
159,
Cham-dong pheasant,
Cheebo-Lama,
141.
Clouds
in Sikhim, 151,
rising, 3, 80.
Coal, 22.
Chinese, intrigues
of,
of I.hasa, 243, 272; (Anglo-) convention, 273:, passports, 150Chola pass, 283; 285 etymology, 140.
;
Coocb
Cooking
in
camp,
88",
at
great
altitudes, 187.
Chomiomo, Chomnaga,
31, 231.
Coolies as porters, 52, 6^, 64, Copper mines, loi, 242 dread of, r 01
140.
Corries, 403.
INDEX
Cosi, see Kosi.
443
50.
54.
9.
84; tree,
Crime, punishments
107; in Tibet, 213.
in Nepal,
Cryptomerias, 41.
D
D^ peak, 235, 386. D- 31, 234.
Devil,
>)
jifort,
of,
of the 73 wor;
;
Baling
289. 243.
Dewan,
142.
Damsang
Dandy,
fort,
Dharma
Dhimal Dihong
Dikchu,
Rajah, 249.
tribe, 86.
40.
Dhaulagiri, 347.
river,
Daphne
Darjeeling. Cession
problem
of, 66.
148; founding
sion, 149,
to,
1
149; exten;
50 ;growth
Dimo
yaks, 169.
227
28,
44; rainfall at, 299, 434; situation, 27; view from, 28, 29. Death of fellow-traveller, 193, 194.
of,
Dongkia
pass,
31,
165,
of,
175,
Deb
game
Dooars
at,
225;
peak
;
31
*,
Decoying
194, 209.
Deer, barking, 77-, Sambhar, 260. Deluge, legend of, no, 115. Denjong, 431. Denudation, 37. Desgodins, Father, 244.
290, 435
annexation
31.
of, 247.
Doobdi monastery,
Dookpa
Dragon-lizard, 81.
Earth-sculpture, 37.
Empire-building, 147.
of,
87
444
Everest, Colonel, 431. Everest, mount. Discovery
INDEX
of ascending, 359; axis of range of, 406; peaks higher thanj 359,
391, 406.
of,
345;
its
native names,
view from Sandook-phu, 331, 333, 340, 342, 343; from Senchal, s.^;
its
Exorcism, 312. Expense of travel in Sikhim, 51. Explorer K. P., 6367, 226 ; U. G.,
121;
M.
H., 436.
Face, blackening
Fairs, 70.
of,
179.
Faloot, 334, 337; view from, 340. Feet, remedy for blistered, 141.
Ferns, 14; edible, 241; tree- 24, 73. Festival, Nepalese, 69, 79-, Tibetan,
256.
noon, 84; semi-tropical, 76; of temperate zone, 24, 256, 257. Fortifications, Tibetan, 267, 271; storming of, 268.
Fossils, 407, 408.
Freshfield,
105.
D.,
on
possibility
of
Feudal government,
Firs, 181.
scahngEverest,359^ alsoKanchen,
384.
Fishing,
243; with bamboo weirs, 117; with push-nets, 6, 7. Flora, origin of Alpine, 220, 433.
6,
81,
of, 315.
334.
Game
Gamotang,
Gnathong, 274;
at,
fort
at,
275; cold
276.
amongst animals,
;
Gold, mines in Tibet, 408 dust from Tibet, 248; import to Nepal, 283Goggles, 179, 272, 276. Gooral, 167.
Ghoom,
25.
of, 205, 275, 403.
smallest
on southern
slopes, 205
of Kanchen-junga, 380, 381, 393. 421, 423-, direct route to, 375.
Goorkhas, origin of, 301; nonHindoos, 302, 308 aggressiveness of, 148, 302; bravery of, 303. Gooroong nomads, 307, 368.
;
INDEX
Gora pass, 198, 226, 228. Government, of Bhotan, 247; of
Nepal, 304; ot Sikhim, 105, 147.
Grass, giant or elephant,
208.
9.
445
Sir
Great Rung-eet, see Rang-eet. Guicha pass, 3 1 direct route to, 375 glaciers of, 378; view from, 380.
;
Guides, want
of, 54.
H
Hailstones, large, 116.
Ha-pa Tibetans,
174.
Hoffmann, Mr. T., ix, 233. Hooker, Sir Joseph, journals of, vii, 430; imprisoned by Sikhimese, 149.
Harman, Captn. Researches of, on Tsangpo river, 66-, death of, from
frost-bite, 224.
Hornbills, 157.
Harpa
Tibetans, 174.
Hastings,
House
gods, 97.
of,
carved no;
Humming
birds, 78.
50.
385;
Hungarians as Tartars,
Hunter, Sir
W. W.,
430.
Hypsometer,
Hodgson, Brian,
305, 430.
for
im-
Ice caves, 233. Ice climbing, 54, 388, 390. Incarnate Buddhas, 141.
Jackals, 335.
Jakcham,
31.
-'
Jannu, 3, 31, 416, 4 [9. Jelep pass, 254, 278-, legends Jew's harp, 294.
of, 285.
Lepcha name
Jhooming,
116.
446
INDEX
Jubonu, ascent
of,
388.
iS;
Jungle, tropical,
9,
Sounds
of,
of,
84; food
314;
in au-
Junnoo,
3,
tumn, 361.
K
Kaboor, 419. Kabroo, see Kabru. Kabru, 3, 31, 33, 379; 393*, from Kang La, 41 6 from below Tangkar pass, 183; from the west plains, 395; ascent by Mr. Graham, 389; Sir M. Conway on, 392 ; Colonel Tanner on, 393; peak probably
;
Kang
Nangma,
Kang-tsen,
417.
Katmandu,
Kazis, 102;
432.
193.
mistaken
175, 232.
Kachin
tribe, 95.
229.
Kakani
ridge, 346.
340, 346.
Kambajong,
rise
175, 232.
2, 3, 31, 386; sunfrom Senchal, 30-,
Sikhim dynasty
restored by
,
Kanchen-junga,
on,
29;
English, 148 ; appearance, 145 as priest, 146^ palace of, 141; flight,
glaciers
(western) 395, 423; direct route to, 375, 388; S.E. face, 381-, possible ascent of, 384;
(eastern)
234,
Kintoop,
54,
geology
of,
of,
of,
Kitam,
84.
Lepcha name
Koch
tribe, 291,
292, 431.
387.
31, 114, 231.
Kanchen-jow,
Kurseong,
23.
valley, 230;
Lay
231.
iii, 112,
Lachoong,
INDEX
Lamas,
living
25, 47, 75,
447
Lepchas,
44, G^, 78, 93; women, 99; character, 93; dress, 94, 99, 100; environments, 93 ; matriarchy, 99
tribal
names,
92,
423 distribution,
;
Landslips
23, 73;
of rocks,
69, 79.
198.
Lanok
valley, 236.
of,
243; temples, 156; dying out, 293; knife, 95; music and songs, 294.
Lete, valley, 176.
Lanterns, feast
Lhasa,
180.
railway
to,
;
281,
282
lay-
Law-code of Tibetans, 106. Leaf, mimicry by butterflies, 114; by locusts, 240. Lebong, 73. Leech-bites, remedy for, 141.
Leeches, voracious, 130; nicotine and, 133. Legends of, Chola, 285 Gamotang, 399 ;Ge, 196-, Rang-eetandTeesta,
;
governor of, 414 Chinese minister of, 243; Manning's route to, 279. Life, Lamas' regard for, 164, 213.
Limboo
tribe, 119,
22,
Limestone,
82;
on
at,
Tibetan
152, 226;
storming
of,
268.
Loads
Locusts,
plagues,
253, 254-,
eaten
III",
Tendoag, no.
69, 396.
Leopard, 122; snow-, 396; trap for, 396; use of markings of, 122.
M
Macaulay (Colman), mission
210, 231.
of, 150,
Madder,
wild, 85.
Mech
tribe, 6, 292.
Magar
Mahanadi
Mahaseer,
river, 5.
81.
Medicinal herbs, 371. Men, fairy wild, legend Mermaids, 404. Mica, 20, 407.
in, 121.
of,
223.
Mainom
of, 85.
mt.,
Migo peak,
Mikado
370.
19.
Malaria, deadly,
Migrating plants,
as priest-king, 147.
309.
119.
of,
Milarapa'shermitageonEverest,35i.
Millet beer, 74;
114,
ode
to, 76.
Markings, usefulness
122.
Mimosa,
of,
1 01,
9.
,
Marmots,
Mascotte,
219.
a,
196, 399.
Mass
in
Buddhist temples,
Mimicry
240.
448
INDEX
208,
Momay,
216.
Mon
Mountain, raihvay, 5, 13, 22; sculpture, 37; worship of, no, 115, 216,
347, 351, 386.
73-,
Tumlong,
m,
135- 139-
Murwa
of, 92.
ode
to,
76.
Monks
in temple, 154.
57.
Months for travelhng, Moormi, 45, 307. Morang, 431. Morik tribe, 92.
Musk,
248.
N
Naga, tribes, 95; dragons, 219. Naini Tal lake, 201.
Eastern, 349, 406; Himalayas
356.
of,
Nakoo
pass, 236.
loi.
Nepalese,
character
20,
of,
21,
44,
301
304-,
17, 21,
Namehi,
303;
women,
Names
285.
of places,
how
coined, 144,
3io;Bho-
Nangna
deadly,
Newar
121.
of,
tribe, 307
Nego
New Year
304;
Neh Mendong,
ruler of, 303
\
Nomads,
174, 284.
9, 11, 84.
of, 422,
423
Oaths,
in Tibet,
107;
by dipping
titles,
Orchids, epiphytic,
hands
home
ation
of,
of, 317.
Om
25.
Oma
Orange
INDEX
449
55, 58.
Phodang monastery,
Palace of Sikhini, 141. Palm, rattan, 128. Pandim, 31, 376, 377; direct route to, 375 glaciers of, 375, 378 ascent
Phosphorescence, 182. Photography, glass plates v. films, 83 native dread of, 85. Picturesque, Eastern ideas of the, 36.
Pig, wild, scare by, 293.
impracticable, 377.
Pangu
pass, 436.
view
of,
from
19-,
hills,
14, 33.
alti-
Plants, migrating,
of high
tudes, 220.
Poisoned arrows,
Poisonous,
99, 326.
air,
Pashok, 260. Pass of Chabab, 403; Chola, 284 Dongkia, 31, 225; Dui, 395; Gora 198; Guicha, 31, 377-, Jelep, 278 Kang, 416, 417; Oma, 397; Pata 227; Pangu, 436; Seeboo, 114 Tangkar, 191; worship of spirits by Tibetans of, 115; closed
guard, 204.
324, 435 ; 185; grass, 401, 435. Polyandry in Sikhim, 197. Ponies, Tibetan, 40, 196, 248.
aconite,
1$^.
-cylinders, 25,
of,
228.
Peak XIII,
Preparations for journey, 50. Presentation scarf, 161, 172, 176, 208.
Presents, to
119-,
Peak XX,
Pedong,
245, 247.
346, 349.
244,
263;
annexation
of,
100,
Pressure
31, 116, 176.
of atmosphere,
ear, 24.
24,
187,
Pemiongchi monastery,
Perpetual snow, line
221
on
of,
187,
Property
tribes,
amongst
105.
Indo-Chinese
107, 213.
Phaloong
glaciers, 206.
silver-, 159;
Queen of Sikhim,
drist,
145; as polyan-
Quinine, cheapening
of,
2c
197.
45
INDEX
R
Railway, mountain,
to
59,
13, 20, 22-,
Ratong
river, 498.
Choombi
valley
and Lhasa,
281, 282.
Rainfall, 10; in
Rattan palms, 128. Reception, at Buddhist temple, 162*, by Sikhimese chiefs, 102, 142.
205, 206.
Rajah, of Bhotan, 247 of Nepal, 305 of Sikhim, 145 ;ofKuchBehar, 292. Rang-eet river, 34, 80, no-, crossing
,
Rhenok, 264. Rhododendron, forest of, in bloom, 320-, in Chola range, 270; as trees, 319-, poisoning by leaves of, 323. Rhubarb, giant wild, 185.
Rivers, erosion by, 37, 289. Rocks, erosion of, 37, 206 ; splitting
256, 257.
92,
Rong
effects
of,
Rungaroon, in,
Ryot
Sacrifices,
bloody,
by
Buddhist
Season for
travelling, 57.
priests, 74.
Seeboo
49.
13,
pass, 215.
Sakya monastery,
Sal
of,
forest,
15
",
incense-resin
263.
Salt,
408, 420.
256.
Salutation,
172, 279.
Pecuhar Tibetan,
171,
Serbo pass,
215.
Sambhar
deer, 260.
Sand-grouse, 225.
Sharpa Bhotiyas,
Shales, 22, 82.
wild, dig-
Scarf presentation, 161, 172, 176, 208. Schlagintweit on Everest, 345, 352.
Scorpions, 369.
Sherpa Bhotiyas,
Shigatse, 175.
Screw pine,
18.
of,
Sea, attraction
by Himalayas,
35.
in, 227.
INDEX
Sikhim.
.149,
451
357.
o,
la
84* annexation
oi,
of^,
152, birds
431- Chinese
intrigues in, 93, 150, 151, 410, 413 ; .King and Queen of, X45 flight
:
of King, 409; slavery in, 103, 149; Tibetan invasion of, 93*^ tribes
of, 43-
Sihgoorij>
meaning of name,
235.
431.
Silok-vok, TGI,
Simvovonchu,
Spinning, too, 296. Spirits of mountains, 110,351,386; of passes, 115; of rivers, no, 262, 265, 301; of lakes, 401, 404; of
hot springs, 189, 202, Springs, hot, 189, 202-, analysis of
v/ater of, 202, 433.
Singpho or Kachins,
SiwaHkS;
9, 385.
95.
Strawberries, 23.
venom
Snow,
Sub-Himalayas, 385.
bears,
223; -leopard; 396^, partridge, 204; -pheasant, 424^ -pigeons, 204; sun-
stroke
Sunbirds, 78. Sunrise on snowy range, 29, 386. Sunset on snows, 337. Sunstroke in snows, 190, 194.
224, 401,
Swing
Snow-blindness, 179.
Taboo,
97, 313.
Tea
Talisman, legend of the lost, 197. Tanner, Colonel, sketches by, ix;
Teesta
of,
on Everest,
T'ar,
'ivild
346,
129; Lepcha name of) 129; junction with Rang-eet, 250; bridge
over, 123, 260.
Temple, Buddhist, at Darjeeling, 68 at Choongtang, 162 at Ging, 73; atPhodang, 135, 137; band of, 136. Tendong, legend of, no worship
: ;
;.
of,
232
le-
of,
115; caves
in,
121.
Tengri town,
Tcheeboo Laraa,
Tea-p'ianf.
741^
Theebaw
Thlonok
as priest-king, 147.
valley, 236.
of, 144, 432.
as tea, 100
Chinese
bicick-tea, 248.
452
Tibet,
INDEX
annexation
of,
viii,
282;
Tinki
fort, 407.
Toloong
409; national party in, 413; trade with, 218, 259, 410; treaty with,
409,
150,
valley, 156, 158; 233;sepul chre of the Kings^ 156. Tonglu, 300, 320, 361, 385.
41 1',
151,
Chinese intrigues
410; invades
in,
Toon
tree, 84.
Sikhim,
Torture of criminals
in Tibet, 213.
151, 152.
]i:50j
Tibetans,
46,93 character, dress, 104^ food, 222^ 212, 213; fortifications, 267 ; guard, 193, 207, 170: ponies, 40, mastiff, 208
23, 25, 43,
,
Train,
5, 9,
13, 20.
196, 248; saddle, 196-, salute, 277; sheep, 158, 211; soldiers, 269; war-
Tsang, government
158.
ofj
232; sheep
Ticks, 122.
Tsangpo river, problems of, 66. Tsoontang, 163. Tumlong monastery, 133 our cloistes
;
in,
139.
Tungra
pass,
176.
V
Valleys, glacier-formed, 206, 403.
Vipers, 240
Volcanic action
Himalayas, 386.
W
Waloong,
395.
2io>
Wine
Weapons of Tibetans, Wheel swing, 69, 71. White, Mr. J. C, ix, 233,
Witchcraft. 312.
Woodpeckers,
236, 242,383.
of,
immense
variety
119.
Worship of Everest,
1x0, 115.
348, 351^ Oj
Yaks, 168; meaning of name, 179; climbing agility of, 173, 405 ; milk of, 284; riding, 223, 397; 174,
disease
of.
98, 241.
371.
Yangma
tribe, 371.
228* sacrifice
of,
163;
wild, 225.
Yoomtang,
204.
Yaloong
river, 405.
Zemoo
glacier, 2^$.
Zones, climatic,
9,
73, 182.
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The Lancet.
15
PROFESSOR
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F.R.S.
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By
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CONSTABLE'S REPRINT OF
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21
CONSTABLE'S LIBRARY
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Historical
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Glasgow Herald.
LORD LYTTON
Harold, the Last of the Saxons.
CHARLES MACFARLANE
The Camp of
Refuge.
CHARLES KINGSLEY
Westward
Ho
CHARLES MACFARLANE
Reading Abbey.
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22
The
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HANDY ANDY.
RORY O'MORE. TREASURE TROVE; OR, "HE WOULD BE A GENTLEMAN." LEGENDS AND STORIES OF IRELAND.
(First Series.)
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24
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The Taming
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The Cover
C.
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DOYLE
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'
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life
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of Indian
'
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we have seen
made Mr, Kipling famous. Doyle had been first in the field, we venture to
Kipling's
Dr.
that
Mr.
less
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Literature.
previous knowledge of this folk of the Terai,
"
One needs no
away
It
owes
his inspira-
He
and, what
illustration
is
better
still,
his note
full
his
own.
In a brilliant
WPunch.
and movement, the beasts of the jungle are seen careering across the back of the book. The covers, in fact, have been drawn as well as any huntsman could do
of
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lived
The author
it
has evidently
among
engaging,
Morning
Post.
" I
am
warm
pleasant
little
book of Indian
stories,
without caring a
for the
had
Mr.
Dr.
spinning a good story out of the good stuff with which his
memory
stored." T. P. O'Connor,
in
M. A. P.
26
Janice Meredith
A Story
By
"
of the
already a distinguished American writer, is greatly to be congratulated on a very delightful novel, which, no less from its historical than for its literary merit, will considerably add to his reputais
tion.''
"
The
war."
and
carefully executed
"Janice and her girl friends are ^&\\<g\\\.'iv\P Literature. " Mr. Ford has the right feeling for romance he knows how to bring his reader into the thick of the excitement and give him the right thrill of personal participation in the struggle, and he keeps his grip on the reader's attention through a long and interesting book." The Speaker.
;
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Trutli.
Story of an Untold
Crown
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Love
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There is not one Daily Alail.
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'
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27
line that
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an earthen
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A
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'
'
are few in whose hands the pure threads have been so skilfully and deliwoven as they have in Fiona Macleod's." Pall Mall Gazette. The fuller revelation which we looked for from Miss Fiona Macleod's earlier works has been amply fulfilled in this volume." Western Mail.
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28
Caleb
By
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West
Grogan,"
etc.)
HOPKINSON SMITH
Tom
Crown
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'
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is
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29
Robert de la Sizeranne
By H. M.
With numerous
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31
THE WORKS OF
GEORGE MEREDITH
New
Crown
With
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a Frontispiece in photogravure to each Volume after Frederick Sandys, Leslie Brooke, William Hyde,
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THE EGOIST. DIANA OF THE CROSSWAYS. ONE OF OUR CONQUERORS. LORD ORMONT AND HIS AMINTA. THE AMAZING MARRIAGE. THE SHAVING OF SHAGPAT. THE TRAGIC COMEDIANS. SHORT STORIES
The Tale of Chloe The House on the Beach Farina The Case of General Ople and Lady Camper. POEMS. 2 Volumes.
Uniform with the above, without Frontispiece,
An
Essay on
Comedy
Spirit
and
Lo7tdon.
NOV
8 102
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