You are on page 1of 74

NO.

5
Editors
ROBERT JONES ANNELISE SEALY DANIEL LEE HARVEY SORAAN LATIF

WRITERS
DANIEL LEE HARVEY ROBERT JONES SARAH TALLEY ANNELISE SEALY JAKE KITE JESSE KRSTEVSKI VEEBS SABHARWAL NICOLE MARSHALLSAY SORAAN LATIF

FRONT COVER
TILMANN ZITZMANN

CONTACT
7shadesmagazine@gmail.com facebook.com/7sobm 7sobm.tumblr.com

SPECIAL THANKS
THE SEVEN SHADES OF BLACK TEAM ALL THE CREDIT FOR THIS ISSUE SHOULD BE GOING TO YOU GUYS / MIKE LAWLEY AS ALWAYS / AARON NELSON / NICOLE MARSHALLAY / KRISTIAN BERGE / MY BROTHER ALEX O'CONNOR / ANDY ROBEY / DANIEL LEE HARVEY

Designers
NICOLE MARSHALLAY AUSTE KUZMICKAITE KARISSA SPARKES AARON NELSON SORAAN LATIF

contents
ART & DESIGN
05 10 68 TILMAN INTERVIEW BAUHAUS REVIEW Laura Redburn

MUSIC
16 18 24 26 054 DAILY CLASSICS HALEY SMITH INTERVIEW VINYL ARTICLE SOFTWAR INTERVIEW

FASHION
30 34 38 44 51 ASOS INTERVIEW MANISH ARTICLE SOPHIE ALEXANDERA TRAYNOR HOUSE OF H BJORN ARITCLE

photography
54 62 GASTON TORRES ESDRAS HILGADO

A graphic designer who has become increasingly popular over the past month or two thanks to his daily geometry blog which showcase his talents via the sheer simplicity of his illustrations and style. He took some time off for us to answer a few questions about his work, process and thoughts upon his posts.

INTERVIEWED BY SARAH TALLEY

O
decide to start this project? me and wanted to get out. have available each day.

Do you ever run out of ideas or become bored with working in this specific area of design?

Of course that was exactly what I feared when I started Geometry Daily. My first goal was to make it to 100 pieces, now I got past number 160 and hopefully my fuel will last for the rest of the year. So far ideas are not a problem at all! Every idea I work out easily leads to ten more ideas. It feels like I explore an endless multi-dimensional space of possibilities, with beautiful findings at every step I take. And then there are those vast sources of inspiration everywhere. From nature, arts, design, technology, mathematics to the most unusual places like astrology or the chaos of daily life. They act like shortcuts to even more

n your blog you say that you create a new piece every day, thats pretty ambitious, what made you

I am currently taking a year off from normal work at the agency to look after my two little kids. (On a side note: Every father should consider leaving work for some time. Kids are awesome. Watch them closely and learn from them!) Therefore I was looking for a way to channel my creative energy otherwise. Something that fits between household work and playground time. Something that challenges me. Something free from clients constraints. Something that is already inside of

starting points of exploration. So this might seem like a rather specific area of design, still it is so deep, I feel like I hardly scratched the surface.

How does the process begin for each piece, do you design them on paper first, or do you have any sort of preparation you do?

First, I try to catch every bit of inspiration somewhere. Working on geometric designs on a daily basis made me sensitive to absolutely anything that could lead to a visual idea. I take

Simple geometric designs always appealed to me, so I developed the idea to daily create and publish a minimal graphic composition. I hoped to be able to do that in the 15 to 30 minutes I

a photo, I sketch, I write down.

On paper, on my iPhone, on the MacBook. That leads to huge messy heaps of inspirational bits everywhere, in the analog as in the digital realm.

Yes. Working with such talented young people at the university is a blessing for me and my work. First, they ask the relevant questions and are full of fresh and extraordinary ideas. It keeps me on my toes to keep up with what they have in mind. Also, teaching forces me to deal with the very basics of design: Questioning, thinking, development, graphics, composition, typography, layout. It does not generate ideas directly, but switching between creating and teaching surely is a huge help to keep my mind fresh. On my laptops hard drive there is a series of Adobe Illustrator files that I work on whenever I have some minutes free. All the ideas end up here side by side in a happy colorful crowd. The rough development and selection happens here. Then each daily artwork is put into a separate file, then brought over into Photoshop, processed, then the JPG is uploaded to Tumblr. Actually I am an interaction designer, working mostly on online projects for years. Websites, apps, digital media. But excellent interaction design also needs excellence in many other Do you find that your teaching ever generates new ideas for your art? What has been your experience as both a teacher and a creator? visual disciplines, from layout to graphics and typography. That is why I try to be a good designer overall. I am driven by the endless possibilities of digital networked tools. It feels natural to me that Do you have any other forms of media or subjects that you like to use outside of your current project?

a large part of Geometry Daily happens digitally, from inspiration and ideation to development and publishing.

Im also an amateur photographer and sometimes I sketch a bit.

Your work has a lot of postmodern elements, specifically like those of the De Stijl. Do you find that previous artists influence your work at all?

Absolutely. De Stijl, Bauhaus, constructivism, hard-edge painting, Swiss design, etc., etc. There are so many artists and designers who I admire and who got me working in this field.

What do you hope to convey to those viewing your work?

I started it because I wanted to create something relevant and beautiful and share it with the world. After several months I slowly realize that I picked geometry for a reason: There is a certain set of rules I can rely on. If I draw two overlapping circles, their edges will always cross in exactly two points. If I draw two equal shapes or more, they always create a rhythm. The angles in an equal-sided triangle are always 60 degrees. These rules feel simple, but create infinite possibilities, a multi-dimensional space to explore. I see endless beauty in these rules. It feels like all the beauty is already there, I just need to make it visible. That is what I want to do with Geometry Daily.

Rather than more traditional methods, you display

your work through your blog. What has been your experience with having others follow your work on a daily basis? Have you had any interesting responses to your work, either positive or negative?

up the daily schedule. And I don't want to spoil this fun project with mediocre quality.

Tilman Zitzmann's tumblr

The feedback has been absolutely staggering. On Tumblr alone over 1.900 people are following, many more on Facebook, Twitter and RSS. It blows my mind that so many want to see the next daily post. It's incredibly motivating.

Also I'm floored by how many great like-minded people I meet. There is hardly a day without somebody writing from any corner of the world. Just to say hi, get in touch, give feedback, ask for advice. Surprisingly, there is a great number of musicians and producers who ask for a composition to use it for the cover of their next album, digital release or even tape.

Publishing on the internet was the perfect way to go, a free and easy way to publish world-wide. All the attention I get, I owe it all to the kind people that re-blogged, tweeted, and blogged the hell out of Geometry Daily. Thank you very much! Please keep it up, tell your friends!

Do you have further plans for the future of Geometry Daily?

Many have asked for real prints of Geometry Dailies, as well as t-shirts. I am still looking into the possibilities of digital or manual printing. There will definitely be a way to buy stuff in the near future, at the moment I'm just busy with keeping

Bauhaus Art as Life


Written by Soraan Latif
Bauhaus Art as Life is a time capsule exhibiting the first steps and the fall of one of the most influential and revolutionary design institutions ever created. Teachers at the institute included some of the most important artists and designer within the past century including Paul Klee,Wassily Kandinsky and Theo van Doesburg. From graphic design, architecture, interior design and even textiles they have had a huge effect on current designers and artists. They were the driving force behind modernism and tried to change society through design in the aftermath of WWI. Split into ten sections, the exhibition guides you through each of these phases and sections within the history of the Bauhaus.

Farkus Molnar Design for a single-family house, 1922 Tempera over pencil on paper Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin Photograph: Markus Hawlik

The exhibition started naturally with the creation of the school when Walker Gropius founded the school by merging the Academy of Fine arts and the School of Arts and Crafts in 1919, Weimar. This was at a period of time when Germany were still coming out of the ruins of WWI, social and political changes were happening across the country. Art was also undergoing its own revolutionary changes around this period with cubism, futurism and constructivism cropping up across Europe within the early parts of the twenty century. Their radical ideas and thinking influenced the early illustrations that started to shape the Bauhaus style. Rather than making realistic illustrations they were more interested in shapes, lines being bold and assertive. I also learnt lots of new things within the first few rooms of the exhibition for instance that I never associated with Bauhaus. I never knew for instance that they were so involved in crafts, material, textiles and sculpture. of the school you can really appreciate how long it takes to create a distinct style. It would be hard to initially tell that one of these earlier pieces are created by Bauhaus, I personally wouldn't have guessed it in a million years. Yet there are still signs of the style, even in the early stages. There's a lack of texture and a flatness to some of the earlier pieces which links up perfectly with their graphic design later on for instance or the futuristic shapes and geometric casing of the kettle on the right. Its great to see the progression as you walk around the exhibition, it's exciting to see so many years of art and design flow and link together perfectly. The area that really caught my attention within the early parts of the exhibition was third section entitled, Salute to the Square. There is a clear jump forward in the schools approach and designs within the period after 1921 when Theo van Doesburg joins the school, bringing with him the De Stiji style that he created. A few years later you have Hungarian artist Lsol Moholy-Nagy also join the school in 1923. After this point you can view a greater rise to a more geometric approach to the arts and crafts they produce.

Whenever I think about Bauhaus I always think about grids, typography and architecture but of course this had to take time to develop, years in fact, viewing the stages within the progressions

Marianne Brandt Tea service, 1924 Tombac, nickel silver, silver and ebony Klassik Stiftung Weimar, Bestand Museen

Herbert Bayer Postcard no. 11 for the Bauhaus exhibition in Weimar, summer, 1923 Colour lithograph on cardboard Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin Photograph: Markus Hawlik

Walter Gropius Diagram of the Bauhaus curriculum, 1922 Letterpress Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin

The main attraction to me though as a graphic design student was the fourth room, Instruments of Communication. This is where all the typography, layouts, grids, advertisements and posters are. This is what our perception of Bauhaus is today. It truly opened my eyes while I was gazing upon
Lszl Moholy-Nagy Prospectus cover for 14 Bauhaus books, 1928 Black and red print on white paper with wire binding Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin

There were so many pieces that I hadn't seen before too like the the Kanden logo created by Herbet Bayer for instance. With no exaggeration what so ever, this could have been designed yesterday. It's bold, perfectly circular shape with a clean, crisp and modern typeface all in black with a light cream background. It still amazes me how this was done over seventy years ago. There are so many hidden gems like this throughout the exhibition with over four hundred pieces of work on display there is no way in my mind any designer who knows anything about Bauhaus could miss this. This is such a rare experience to see all of this work within one space, it was a privilege to spend a few hours there. Make no doubt about this, you have to see this exhibition, it would be incredibly foolish not to. I havent even mentioned the rest of the exhibition which takes a closer look at photography, artichectire and interview design. The exhibition covers everything about Bauhaus, including the letter to the students informing that the school was being closed down. By far one of the best exhibitions that I've been to in the past view years.

their work, I knew already that they were years ahead of themselves but seeing these pieces in the flesh makes a vast difference. You can see the pencil marks that have created the Universal typeface for instance. It looks so modern, even now, but to think that it was created over eighty years ago. The typographic logos created for a small soap company, the packaging. All of it was and still is beautiful. Lsol Moholy-Nagy helped create and developed a unified style of design, one that was clear and provide efficacy. Everything became more simplistic, from the use of colour to the amount of information on the work, even breaking up the design with the use of bars and lines. Right now at university this is exactly what we are being taught now, how to communicate a message effectively. The principles that they created then still exist today.

Bauhaus: Art as Life at Barbican Art Gallery, London 3 May 12 August 2012

AILY CLASSICS
WRITTEN BY DANIEL LEE HARVEY

Everyone connects differently to music; certain tracks we tune into can stern feelings that relate to our childhood, it can even stimulate specific senses like a smell, a taste to picturing a mental image in our minds. We control our own frequencies, we as individuals decide what music we listen to and we as individuals will use it to influence our thoughts as well as our image.

something of their own without following the rest of the tribe, the artists that sang with no fear, the producers that understood every element there was in music, who conducted and bought out the best of the people they worked with to the musicians and djs that encapsulated a essence and channelled it out to a open audience. I wanted it to be an integral element to the music section of the magazine. I thought to myself that

mind open to as many sounds as possible, I believe everyone should show respect to the past, all the genres we listen to now, started a journey somewhere, a individual looked upon the industry and took the opportunity to define a change, to create something that would then create a movement for others to follow. Everyone should appreciate that, we as lovers to music understand that the industry yearns and turns for fresh substance, it changes, it evolves and rebounds depending on what is popular in the current market, but for me, the legends we have made by following and connecting to their art will

Music has a constriction on the most of us, it follows our everyday sequences, we use it to energise, to reminisce, to show reflection of ourselves to simply winding down in relaxation. Music is a language, a voice that changes depending on its location, its audience and the message it injects upon society. We aslisteners channel an energy similar to the onethe artists have felt while creating it. The reason why we connect to a piece because it has stimulated a sensation within, a sound, a voice, a lyric to the projection of a artist when it comes to expressing can trigger a whole globe of opinions and thoughts. I love the connection people make to artists and I love the impulse effect it can cause to other people particularly at events. You stand waiting in a crowd in anticipation, the curtains are closed, the spotlights are reflecting upon the many faces of smiles, the curtains arise and a crescendo of noise shoots through your body, the artist walks on stage showing a appreciation to everyone in the venue and begins to sing, that first note is when you begin the connection, the link between yourself and them.

this would be a brilliant opportunity to show admiration to the artists of the past and offer an insight into their work.

I started the process right at the very beginning while issue 1 was still in the pot waiting to be stewed in creativity. I approached Soraan with the idea and he decided to take it on and ever since it has become a rock for all that we do here. Seven Shades of Black is a magazine that aims to give people a projection into underground talent, that shows respect and admiration to the innovators of the media and arts industry and allows writers, designers, photographers, the whole team to be who they want to be, we dont believe in barriers, we believe in freedom, the freedom to express openly and to give others a portal to connect to our words and images. I have loved my time here and it has given me the space to flow and to talk about subjects and concepts I have had stuck in my head which I felt difficult to express with other magazines without following their conventions of writing, but here its open and I respect that hugely.

never be emulated, they will remain intact and they will influence others for many generations to come no matter what happens.

In essence, this is my way of showing who has had a huge impact on me, to show unsung and forgotten heroes and to give a projection into a variety of genres and records that injected the industry with innovation. This is only my tastes though and I wanted to see what other people would do, I selected a team of writers and Im hoping they will give you a good glance into their music tastes, I just love seeing people establish a connection to a piece of music and I think its only right to see another person illustrate it. Im glad to see so many of you enjoy it, but I think its my time to let go of it slightly and allow it to grow and shoot down a different path, just remember though to keep open to as much as you can and to share those records we consider as classics to the rest of the planet!

At Seven Shades of Black, I thought it would only be necessary to start something in relation to what Ive been describing, a daily classic and by classic, I mean a record that has had a great impact. Pioneers, innovators, people that glanced upon the scene and decided to create The Daily Classics has received huge amounts of support from blogs that have reposted our content and it has become a highlight to many, something I am incredibly grateful for. I do it for the love of music and I try to keep my

HALEY SMITH
WRITTEN BY DANIEL LEE HARVEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY BLUEBIRD PHOTOGRAPHY STYLING BY LESLIEPENNEL

I love it when I find pure souls floating around on the internet and Haley Smith is one of them. Her voice is like a bonfire, a singe of warm and crisp flavours. Haley uses her pool of influences to create a sound that is exclusive to her. Her album A Baby and A Queen is a three track splendour. The opening song Poison Apple is soaked inemotional integrity. It has all the traditional elements, the lyrics that tell a narrative, a key instrument that overshadows the leaps and jumps in the vocal range and of course the voice which is packed with feeling and depth. The second song on this album however is the one that caught me off my feet. Its an acapella, there is no flaunts or added dimensions, it just her. I havent experienced the hustle and bustle of 1940s New York or the spotlight shows in smoky jazz cafes but that track can take you there. Singers have the aptitude to teleport you to a time in the past or in the future. I admire her compassion and respect for such a complicated art and she shows real gratitude for all the support she can get. I decided it would only be necessary to hold an interview with her and heres the proof.

like Alicia Keys and John Mayer really impacted me, I experienced more things in my life which I could relate to through the lyrics of their songs so that helped me to push myself when it came to creating music of my own.

Youve released a 3 track E.P called A Baby and a Queen; its has a concoction of jazz and folk sounds, what were your influences while creating it?

I was listening to a lot of Janis Joplin, she has influenced me a lot when it comes to artistry, I read her biographies, listened to her tapes and sobbed, she was a beautiful soul, pretty much all I listened to while I was writing it. I loved her then and I will love her now, a true inspiration of mine.

Janice was a huge soul artist who injected a message upon society and with your tracks, they reflect more on the inner-being and how our emotions can often constrict ourselves when wrapped up in love or hate, what was your innovation?

I believe in keeping it true, stick to what you know, When did your passion for music start? I write what I feel and if people can relate to that then Im only thankful. Ever since I was little, I had a lot of respect for artists like Aaliyah and listened to her music a lot to the point I became obsessed with her, I was really upset when she died. I started music lessons when I was about 11 or 12 and thats when I really started to get into it. 14 and 15 was the age I started to precipitate different artists, people In todays market, theres a lot of soul artists, people like Adele are holding the beacon up to a lot of these upcoming singers and then there folk like Amy Winehouse who didnt restrain herself, she just allowed it to flow out without it being filtered, when I watch earlier performances of

her, she reflected different mannerisms of these 1960s Motown acts but still manages to keep it in time with our generation, when it comes to you performing, do you think about whats happening in todays market and how singers are doing it now or do you try to keep in touch with the past and remain to show reflection to soul and jazz legends?

But I like that about an artist, it shows their human, I rather see someone connect with you on an emotional level instead of the way they look physically or the way they hit notes like they have been told before the show to do it, its very mechanical and it makes me think are they more about the music or the theatrics of a performance?

Im going to say it anyway, What is your approach to song writing?

I cant sit down and force myself to write something, I really have to be in the thick of a emotion to find a narrative, I wrote something the night before this interview and its something Im very proud of, it just flowed out of me, I was

Wow, thats a very good question haha; I dont really have a conscious on what I do, I just keep it open and depending on the audience and the venue, I will connect differently but I dont over think it, it can often numb creativity. Ive been told that I look very confident when I play but inside, its like a brick wall falling, I get very nervous.

Yes I agree with that, I dont believe in overdoing it or acting in a certain way just to please the guideline measures, I balance between the two, try to remain on top of my emotions and the way I conduct myself to a crowd of people.

writing what I was feeling and thinking and it portrayed the exact message I had wrapped up in my emotions. I wish I could write faster, but I cant and I believe forcing something out instead of allowing it to come out naturally can often ruin the quality and the meaning.

I was suppose to say this question earlier on but

In terms of the subjects you cover in your songs, I felt a lot concepts revolved around love, am I right?

jealous I felt and I was never a jealous girl, I felt terrible at the time, it just wasnt who I was, I was pulling one of these b girl faces just saying

every music journalist has asked at some point of their career, but here it is anyway, if your house was in a burning blaze and you could only take one record with you, what would it be and why?

Yes, the songs on my E.P were all about the same guy and I dont feel that way about him now.

what to myself, but yeah I have evolved from that and I feel that love can be one of the most powerful emotions to express, even if it has slight

I would take my Janis Joplin Pearl vinyl; I got it at this rustic store in downtown Atlanta and it means a lot to me and at the time I was experiencing

One of your songs is called Poisoned Apple, you planning on killing him?

ingestions of jealousy!

Im going to ask you one of the most clichd Haha its more he poisoned me, I remember how questions imaginable which Im pretty certain,

emotions similar to her own and I instantly made that connection with her. She is a beautiful woman

and I have huge pocketfuls of respect for what she did and what she stood for during her reign as an artist.

often reflect the content of the music, but yeah like you already mentioned, artists like Erykah stood out of the industry because they were so elaborate and different on what they did, almost

huge audience compared to someone who is the opposite?

That varies really, some are doing singing because of the way the media has compacted it in advertising, oh so and so is a singer, Im going to try it kind of thing without actually taking it into serious consideration, it does anger me when people on that level will result to do other things in order to get a audience of clickers but hey it isnt my worth to complain, I just respect

I know the guitar is your key instrument when it comes to constructing your music, but if you had the opportunity to expand, would you?

like she was from another planet telling us the vision she had depicted in her head and with Amy Winehouse, she was nostalgic and echoed many female Motown singers, so there is a divide

Yes actually, there are so many instruments in records that I would hear and ambient sounds that my ears get attracted to, it would be good to start experimenting and getting other members on board, but yeah I really need to start opening up my horizons when it comes to learning new skills that will help me develop my sound. I loved the time when I was working with beat maker Languid; he produced a lovely remix of one of my tracks Heavy Heart.

there but thats only 2 out of the package so I cant decide haha!

You first started posting on YouTube, doing covers of songs with a microphone and your guitar, as you know, YouTube is very competitive and there are many others out there striving to get recognition for what they are doing, do you have any advice you can offer to them?

the people that work hard and do it purely for the love and appreciation of music.

The 1960s was very interesting for music, particularly because it brewed a lot of controversy and activism in music, soul and rock & roll artists were labelled as messengers from hell, the music

Just be true to yourself, dont get manipulated With soul, theres a duality of moods and narratives, artists like Erykah Badu often take influence from a subliminal force, a world that revolves around futuristic concepts, she draws in these emotions and relates it to political methods and then theres others that will only induce themselves on love, Amy Winehouse for example, who foretold the biography of her live, speaking of relationships, drinking to doing drugs to giving a foresight of her tragic end. She used her art as a mirror to her habits and addictions; do you feel that there is a divide when it comes to expression in this particular genre of music? Going back to that millions of followers statement, do you feel that some of the artists are almost constricted to a trait, let me explain that better, It depends really on the person, everyone comes from different backgrounds and ages and that can say theres a girl who has a good appearance and not a so good voice yet manages to pull a or disheartened because no one understands your work first, you cant expect everyone to love it straight away, just keep on releasing music as much as you can and make sure to show appreciation to what is around you, speak to artists on a similar level to yourself and comment and critic each others work. Im not big at all on this YouTube thing and there are people out there who have millions of followers, Im just happy people follow my work and I can just be me.

that can turn the normal everyday people into crazed party animals, but it wasnt like that, its the lack of knowledge and understanding that made them label it in such a way and I feel its the same for a lot of underground music out there, people will touch base upon it and that will be it until seeps through onto the commercial market, what are your thoughts about this?

It is sad when that happens, white people of the 1960s who like black music were accused as devils because the rest of society was into something else, we take everything in turns, if something is popular, people tend to keep on top of it no matter the content being produced and for everyone who is into the underground scene, you need to search for it harder and I

believe that youve already made a connection to that artist for battling through everything else just to listen to their material.

glad of all the support I have received of them, my whole family in general, lovely people.

And last of all, do you have any new material in Youre a multi-talented artist who has the capability to write, play and sing, is your family musical at all? I have, I have written a few songs that have quite Ha why thank you! More my dads side really, my dad plays piano and sings in a choir and my grandma too sang in a choir and played piano and theres a piano kept in their house in Alabama so yeah and my mums side of the family was more the listeners to the music, the people that perceived and loved it for what it is, both me and my mum are excessive listeners and she shares music with me and I share music with her, Im Haley Smith's soundcloud a strong folk feel to them, but theres still a lot of soul there and soul will always be the foundation for what I do, in terms of themes I will talk more about my experiences when overcoming certain points within my life and the process of growing up, Im excited about it and it should hopefully be ready very soon. store that our readers can check out in the future?

L s p i

e G h c

t e y a

' t s l

Two fresh faced disc jockeys came bounding up to a friend of mine recently, eager to bend his ear into giving them a chance to prove themselves at a local club night in town. Knowing people that are just starting out on that journey is encouraging evidence that records still stir something deeper in a listener, keeping independent shops alive and record markets popular. But during this conversation I had a revelation that changed my perception of these keen lads - the monolithic marketplace of "eBay" had been uttered. It is the perfect place to track down elusive records and gauge the going price for current gems, which is something I massively appreciate about it. The two DJs stood before me were a new breed, however, with no favourite record shops or distant markets used for sourcing. Instead, they swore by a method of aggressive bulk buying akin to a cash and carry warehouse, purely thanks to eBay.

it from downloading. It removed the process of flicking through a rack, deducing if a record was decent from limited clues, holding it, perhaps having a listen and a traditional bit of shop dealer chit chat. Being told of this belligerent purchase style was a disappointment at first, but the real concerns passed me by until an excursion to Spitalfields Market.

market trader will give you a deal, know you by name and keep an eye out for the records you are after. And all simply because you show loyalty to them, even if it is only 20 every couple of weeks! It is their living and

they cannot afford to just chuck a random box of vinyl at you like some bloke on eBay clearing out his "Liquid Dubstep" phase - they show the same passion for it as the buyer.

The market is always worth the time and effort to get there - traders that know how everything in their stock sounds and deliver a service to encourage you back again. The general hubbub at Spitalfields beats the split second moment of hope as you search eBay for that missing piece to your collection. The issue with bulk buying from members of the public online is simple to see, but costly to alter now it is such a well-established method for us to shift unwanted gear. Markets allow you to put money back into the system,

Two newcomers buying a few boxes filled with random

dance records are not going to be the downfall of record

shops and market dealers, but it is harmful if these people never experience buying records physically. The collector and trader are in the uphill struggle together,

but it manages to keep ticking over regardless due to

this unique buying experience. Of course you cannot ignore the financial importance of buying from the market traders or local record stores, simply to throw

the independent industry a lifeline. It is a sad thought,

though, when people with a burgeoning interest in records seek it only in its online form of trading. Get to the shops, the market; get to know your local dealer. If you stay tapping away for vinyl online it becomes hard

They revealed a ruthless method and condensed it into a series of steps: 1) Search eBay for boxes of records 2) Narrow it down further into genre-specific collections 3) Buy boxes of 500+ records only 4) Repeat until a desired collection has formed.

sometimes more visibly than a record store with a rapid turnover of stock. Markets should always offer you a bespoke service when searching for records too; competition around them is so similar in terms of knowledge and stock, and only a great service can differentiate them. One bad experience can put you off a trader for a long time. By handing over money to a faceless

to see what separates a record from a download with all the personal bells and whistles removed.

Written by Robert Jones Photography by Harry Lawford

It sounded cold to me, detached completely from the process of purchasing records that separates

member of the online public you gain no service and build no real contacts for further buying. A

Softwar
Interviewed by Jesse Krstevski

zoftwar consists of Myles Du Chateau and Jeremy Lloyd. Hailing from Sydney, they have been making waves on Australian beaches and abroad with their new release This Time Around, released on the influential local label Future Classic. Softwar are attracting attention from all the right people, with their most recent effort being included in disco tastemaker The Magicians monthly Magic Tape as well as being featured on a Kitsun compilation. Having remixed the likes of Azari & III, Two Door Cinema Club, Groove Armada, Bag Raiders and The Temper Trap, the hard work is now being rewarded with regular slots at music festivals and monthly club residencies. We were lucky enough to speak with Softwar about music, vinyl and parties. As expected, the release has received warm praise from the likes of Azari & III, Toby Tobias, Slow Hands and the Melbourne Deepcast crew. You two met in 2005 and it's now 2012, were many of these seven years spent working on the This Time Around EP? You use vinyl during some DJ sets, do you have Haha, would kind of like to say yes, but its not true. We practically started working on the EP mid-2011 as a rough draft kind of thing then fortunately had the final proof just after Christmas. A belated Christmas gift if you will. We indeed do. We have a fairly decent sized collection as is, but its growing day by day. Our last trip to New York was spent mostly in record shops, only downfall was the cost to bring them The title track features some very 90's vocals and piano, can you tell us about which What is your favourite record and what is the one record want the most? all back! a large record collection? Super pleased to have guys like this supporting the EP, a little surreal to be honest. Yes yes there is definitely a 90's vibe. We often find ourselves mixing a lot of this type of stuff into our live shows and mix tapes, so it was always on the cards. As for musical influences this would be guys like Azari & III, Wolf and Lamb, Tensnake & Inner City to name a few. musical influences you were channelling when making the EP?

Too many to name!

On the topic of vinyl, so much of its appeal is the visual aspect. The stylish Future Classic white sleeves come emblazoned with the logo in gold. What are the best 3 vinyl cover artworks you've come across?

- Its the kinda party you promise not to stay up too late but always get home at 6am always delivers. As for overseas we are hoping to hop onto a mediocre airline mid-2012 to do a smallish European/US trip.

exported, whether it be Future Classic, the aforementioned Melbourne Deepcast, and various Modular artists such as Beni, Cut Copy and Canyons.

The scene is very good. Lots of parties and heaps Mystery Meat records from NYC, Lets Play House and instruments of Rapture are pretty nice Is there a place or a club that you'd like to play at most? Thanks to Myles and Jeremy for their time. The Slowblow parties in Sydney are lucky enough to have you every month and you were in New York last September, have you got any more international ventures planned? What are your views on the current music scene Down Under? Morocco somewhere suss. You can listen to Softwars Orange Colour Flight Mix here. of new acts on the rise, its good to be part of it.

Thanks. Yeah its always fun to play at Slowblow

It seems like there's boundless talent being

ASOS and the little guy the rise of an empire, the fall of local design.
Written by Jake Kite 'A spectre is haunting Europe - the spectre of ASOS'

Undoubtedly, most readers will have come across the once-modest brain child of Nick Robertson and Quentin Griffiths. Based in Camden Town with a second home in Barnsley ASOS and its 2,000-strong base of employees is now synonymous with value, prompt delivery, and accessibility, setting a new benchmark for online customer service and quality. At an unprecedented rate of growth, ASOS has developed into the UKs largest online-only fashion store, earning a cool 339.7 in the 2010-2011 financial year. The ASOS empire, by way of providing free shipping, an original brand, and taking enterprise in the affordable labour markets of developing nations, such as India, has forced many of its local and international competitors to pull up their socks but as ASOS stocks persistently rise and the brand continues to stretch its wings, does it threaten to stifle local industries that cannot face up to the fashion worlds new Goliath.

'Quality, cool, and cost-efficient'

ASOS has managed to avoid an age-old curse of the fashion industry: polarising its target demographic. Many fashion-savvy consumers would be happy to turn up their nose at a brand that slashes the retail value of its products in a market where being able to charge exorbitant prices reflects upon the brands idea of self-worth; despite this, ASOS has managed to become the guilty pleasure of many and the affordable alternative for thousands. Often when a brand sells cheaply, it carries with it a certain stigma a bad taste that cannot be easily removed. How is it, then, that ASOS has managed to get around this problem, widening its market from the everyday consumer and to the bargain-hungry fashionista? Much of ASOSs fame can be owed to its decision in 2004, 4 years after its initial inception, to launch its own ASOS brand. The ASOS own brand for women was warmly received by critics for its surprisingly high quality products that sold for prices that didnt match their exceptional build; this line threatened to usurp the then king of affordable fashion, Zara, segueing an ASOS own line for men three years later, and allowing the brand to survive a warehouse fire in which it lost 5m of stock.

With such growth, there come many benefits for consumers and the fashion world alike: Firstly, high style is more accessible to the masses the average punter will have access to a market which previously may have been out of their grasps. Sure, whilst ASOS cannot single-handily increase the purchasing power of individuals, it does give a variety of alternatives to consumers that, despite desiring to dress in a more fashion-conscious manner, may have shied away from the idea of buying a pair of chinos that retail for 150;

S
fashion world.

econdly, ASOSs London design houses give rewarding opportunities to local designers who otherwise may have been lost in the sea of competition changing made, insisting that products made on home soil are made with greater care, precision, and are more reliable; however, this only results in prices of locally produced garments being much higher than those of companies like ASOS, in a bid to make a profit after the higher wages paid to firstworld employees, not just for the luxury of having the brand name. Its not hard to see why cheap online shopping has suffocated local industry; for example, I, from my house on the North of Melbourne, can order 3 pairs of trousers from ASOS that will arrive within a working week for a price that would scarcely get me a pair of jeans produced in Australia by a Melbourne designer. Inevitably, local brands will sink under the pressure, and understandably so at the end of the day, they exist to make a profit. This lack of industry only exacerbates the problem in the sense that if the government doesnt see potential of growth, they are unlikely to bolster the textile and design industry with government subsidies, above all in the past turbulent months of Eurozone Crisis.

and employing a variety of designers from all over the capital allows ASOS to be flexible, to react, and change as the designers and their influences change, an aspect which is reflected in ASOS wide range of designs and directions of style. Most of all, fashion should allow for the youth to come through, to let their presence be felt; Lastly, it puts pressure on some of the high-end, haute couture based fashion entities to react in a positive way for instance, if a consumer can find a jacket and/or dress of similar design and craftsmanship, what draw card other than a brands name does the more expensive alternative have? Such reactions to the problem are starting to appear between the formally untouchable moguls of design, which, in the end, only benefits us the consumer. But, as you may have guessed, ASOSs new dominance isnt all roses for the

'There's no place like home'

So, what now are will be the overarching consequences of seeing our local fashion

Lifes hard enough for local designers high rises in the minimum wages for textile workers in first-world economies has resulted in most manufactures looking east towards a cheaper solution. In a bid to sustain the weltering textiles industry, many designers have been defiant in their decision to remain UK and Australian

economy brought to its knees? And what are some of the things keeping the local scene afloat? One of the last bastions of local designers is the shopping experience. The shopping experience will simply never be replicated by any website, no matter how hard it tries. All the memberships and discount codes in the world will never replace the joy of conversing with a designer or shop assistant about a piece of locally made clothing, a piece that reflects the local scene, like how an individual landscape is reflected in painting of a

valley. Coffee in hand, theres simply nothing more satisfying that trying on a new jacket, falling in love with it, and wearing it out the very same night. Interactions of this sort are what make fashion beautiful the parties, events, photoshoots, new friends. These things cannot exist without local support. Individuality is another benefit of local fashion industry. As an art form, fashion cannot help but reflect the local environment. In this regard, when I travel and take some locally made items with me, I take with me a little bit of my city, my life back home. ASOS ships to over 100 countries, and in each one of those countries, somebody could be purchasing the

same thing as you globalisation of this sort only demonstrates the importance of fashion as an artistic landscape. Creativity such as this cannot be simply beaten down by a price war; it is for some designers the greatest avenue of self expression, of communication. Mass production cannot overthrow something as power as this.

succumb to their power. Local designers should learn from ASOS, updating their business and advertisement methods in a bid to rejuvenate the local industry and perhaps even use ASOS a springboard for their own careers. They should infuse their unique fashion landscape with the business tools that are available to them, and take the fight back to the Zaras and ASOS of

'If you can't join 'em, beat 'em'

the world. Recent emergences and success of locally based online stores such as The Grand

At this rate, companies such as ASOS wont be going anywhere, so we should acclimatise to them in an attempt to reap the maximum benefits for the local fashion scene from them, rather than

Social is testimony to this. The big businesses may have the upper hand right now, but David did beat Goliath.

Manish Bansal A/W '12

Of Indian origin, Manish Bansal moved to London in 2001 to complete a Bachelors degree in Fashion Design at Middlesex University. Upon graduation, he worked his way from the position of Assistant Menswear Designer to Senior Menswear Designer at various well-known high street names such as Tesco and Ted Baker. In 2008, being granted permanent residency in the U.K., he made the move into freelance work due to the desire to explore other aspects of fashion and culture abroad. Eventually, his craving to further his knowledge of tailoring led to the decision toreturn to university studies and complete a Masters degree in Menswear at the London College of Fashion. This training has enabled him to launch his very own label, incorporating his experience in casual wear with British tailoring expertise.

the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. This in turn led to the discovery of the Game keeping role," a job involving the upkeep and nurturing of the British countryside and wildlife. This image, coupled with outdoor sports such as shooting, generated the idea of using a technique called felting on the surface traditionally tailored silhouettes. Bansals prior knowledge of Indian textiles and embellishments tied in supporting this concept.

Traditional tailoring, a skill necessitating perfection, is juxtaposed against the destructive felting technique. This produces a play of perfection and a sharp contrast within the garments. Felting involves a needle punch machine that is hard to control, resulting in an imperfect, though unique, fabric surface. Bansal explains that his methodology attempted to tame the result of the felting process to make it as perfect as possible. This in turn destroyed the impeccable tailored surface of a jacket or coat.

Manish Bansal's Website Written by Annelise Sealy

Photographer Sukriti (www.csukriti.com) Photographic Assistant Fen Newman Models Primo Baker & Benjamin Warbis at Premier Model Management Hair & Grooming Kenny Leung Styling Manish Bansal Styling Assistance Santiago Romero

SOPHIE ALEXA TRAYN

E ANDRA NOR
WRITTEN BY ANNELISE SEALY

Sophie Alexandra Traynor is a 21-year-old photographer from Huddersfield, Yorkshire.Her study in Photography began in college, and she has now gone on to study it at Norwich University College of the Arts. Our FashionEditor spoke to the woman behind the images to see what drives and inspires her.

It was more that I just started taking photos and absolutely loved it. I never studied Art I definitely cant draw. Photographs are the only way that I am really able to communicate creatively.

Do you believe in the expression a picture is worth 1,000 words?

At what stage did you become interested in photography?

Yes and no. I believe that some images have the power to speak volumes that cant be communicated with words; everything is

I did work experience at a photography studio when I was in high school. One of my assignments was to restore some prints for an old lady, photos of her and her husband, and they were beautiful. From that point on I havent stopped taking and working with images. My job is to take beautiful people and beautiful objects and capture them, show them to people, I just love it.

subjective, after all, and the beauty of an image is that you can take it from it whatever you want.I do, however, think that sometimes people trytoo hard to read into the meanings behind images. Sometimes they are just beautiful images and that is all that matters.

Do you think that a person must possess talent in order to capture emotion and expression in a

Who or what influenced you to become a photographer?

picture?

I suppose sothere are lots of things that matter I dont think there was one specific person or thing that made me want to become a photographer. when youre trying to capture emotion you need to be able to make that person feel comfortable

and sometimes you need to be able to do the opposite. There is no camera that can do that.

In your opinion, what makes Photography an Art?

Photography is subjective; the thing that I will Does the price of a camera matter in the way that it affects the quality of the picture? love about an image might be the thing that someone else hates. The personal experience you have when looking at a photograph is what Its all relative really; if you sat me in front of the most expensive piano in the world, I wouldnt be able to play it any better than I would a 30 keyboard. Its not what youve got; its how you use it! Film will never disappear theres something In the past did you just consider photography to be a hobby? about the process of creating a photograph on film that digital photography will never be able to achieve. Its a labour of love, and its hands I guess so. Although, in fairness, it hasnt ever really felt like how I expected a job to feel and I hope that it never will! I think if you can turn what you love doing into what pays the bills then youre onto a winner. Finally, what motivates you to do what you do? on. However, I am a digital baby at heart. I work by eye, and the speed of digital photography is a huge factor in the way that I work. Do you think film photography will eventually be completely replaced by digital? defines it as Art to me.

This is going to sound cheesy, but I genuinely cant imagine doing anything else.

Sophie Alexandra Traynor's Flickr

HOUSE OF HERLIHY

text: 1234567890-= design: kristian hjorth berge photo: dave kai piper

Sinead OHerlihy, a 21-year-old Fashion and Innovation student at Leeds College of Art, is the creative energy behind British luxury womenswear label House of Herlihy. Only in its second collection, the brand has already shown at Manchester Fashion Week and been featured by several blogs and fashion websites. OHerlihy has big plans for her label, and says she aims to get it into high-end department stores in the near future (watch this space!).

For the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, the designs were inspired by French as well as the Indian architecture and kaleidoscopic digital prints. In addition, she studied the Indian Holi Festival, also known as the Festival of Colours. This comes through in her use of vibrant tones such as blood orange, royal purple and jewel turquoise.The feminine silhouettes of the dresses are constructed with silk chiffons, silk habotais and crpe de chine.

House of Herlihy's website

photo assistant - mark evans models - laura brown & sarah jones makeup artist: -samantha mercer styling - house of herlihy jewellery -swarovski

Like our facebook page for daily art and design inspiration

How to up your street cred


Britains weather is as unpredictable as Kanye Wests next infamous TV moment, so naturally, I was delighted to receive a pair of black moon boots. Effortlessly cool enough to make Napoleon Dynamite proud. My new moon boots have a quilted effect, drawstring at the top and a branding that isnt so unfamiliar: Bjrn Borg.

The brand smashed onto the scene good and proper with their lights off party on the eve of London Fashion Week at Battersea Power Station earlier this year, showcasing their AW12 collection in amazing Swedish style. Put your hands together and say Ja!

You might have seen a kaleidoscope of BjrnBorg underwear enhancing the shelves of selected UK retailers like Selfridges. NowHarrods has joined the club and will be officially launching an exclusive in house Bjrn Borg shop in midSeptember. With apparel, footwear, underwear and bags, the whole brand will be showcased. The vibe, however, is totally starting to be about their footwear.

he achieved it in: being the winner of 11 Grand slam titles in the space of 8 years. He said that towards the end of his tennis career, his spark for the game had gone. That spark that is now synonymous with his fashion label instead.

available now, is supported by the premium Heritage Collection, a range of shoes celebrating all this about Borg, courtesy of an ergonomic and fashionable design. With his blonde locks, fiercely blue eyes and a headband for a crown, Borg nailed that Prince Charming look hands

Dont be trippin if you havent already gotyourself a hip pair of the brands sneakers, just hurry up. This season, we can get our kicks from one finetuned array of shoes retailing at an affordable 50

down. Now you can trend set vicariously through his trademark footwear. For the new collection, inspiration was drawn from all aspects of his life to create end products of near perfection. The key features of a shoe from the heritage collection include headband details in the linings, a portrait of Bjrns face on the tongue and a stitched signature on the outside of the shoe. Only the finest of materials have been sourced to form

To read about the sports star online, you would take a mouse journey that looks something like this: Google>Wimbledon>Heritage>History> Legends> Bjrn Borg. Legend is right; Borg achieved a lot in proportion to the amount of time

to 120. Swedish born tennis prodigy Bjrn Borg attracted fans left, right and centre for, not just his style of playing, but also his style of dress. The swede was dapper and seemed to be oblivious to it. The new Bjrn Borg Footwear SS12 collection,

each shoe: pliable suede, premium napa and unfinished canvas to name a few.

and boots. Big love for the navy and yellow Anders Heritage shoe, retailing at 89. As if Summer couldnt be more exciting, theres also the added

right by the age of 25, before retiring to become something even bigger: a family man. One should only wear his career inspired footwear with the utmost respect.

With the 2012 Olympics drawing ever closer, its time to start injecting some of the sportswear and futuristic looks that were sprinkled all over the runways at London Fashion Week SS12 into your wardrobe. If youre not quite ready to rock the lycra or neoprene then theres no better way to channel the trend than investing in a pair of psychedelic Bjrn Borg sneakers from the main footwear line instead; one that can only be described with 3 Cs creative, colourful and contemporary. The line has a heavy mix of sneakers in low and mid versions as well as a selection of flats, flip-flops

option of chic, minimalist wedges for ladies. The Swedish brand stresses quality and luxury for all its models what more is needed? The summer collection is peppy and playful; a moment please while I pencil the sand coloured Flavia wedges on to my wishlist (and the suede Thomas shoes in grey for all my guy friends).

Bjorn Borg's website Written by Veebs Sabharwal

So don your brightly coloured headphones, bust out some classics, and rule the streets with your shiny new shoes laces done up and everything. Bjrn Borg became a phenomenon in his own

Gaston
T o r r e s

LAURA REDBURN
Snapshots from dreams and other worlds is how Laura describes her collages - and indeed, the colourful combination of surrealism, nostalgia, science fiction and romance in question couldn't be put into words any more aptly. The artworks possess the same poetic ring, but however paired with a kind of quirkiness lose their seriousness to an original and friendly edge. The artist's love for animals, flowers and old films clearly shows, as they are recurring protagonists in her compositions. Yet unlike Salvador Dali's highly complex theoretical dream worlds, Laura's collages are based on a more easygoing and natural manner of work. Often starting with one image she might want to use, the artist from Wales relies on instinct and spontaneous ideas about combining colours and shapes. Folders of cut- outs and books with illustrations and photos provide the visual repertoire, as Laura

will use digital means only for finishing touches. There's something about working with actual paper, cutting with scissors that you can't recreate working on a computer and I'm a very tactile person, so I like to work with my hands as much as I can.

of surrealist anarchy. The lighthearted pieces, leaving plenty of room for personal interpretation, often have a sort of mystery about them. Some appear to convey childhood memories and innocence, others seem slightly humourous or sarcastic. Having created an animation recently, Laura says she would like to explore this medium

Throughout the vre, her favour of expressionism, dada and surrealism are reflected in the choice of themes, faible for colour and embraced freedom

further, particularly doing things by hand and continue to be prolific as I definitely feel best when I'm creating something.

Laura Redburn's website Written by Nicole Marshallsay

Like our facebook page for daily art and design inspiration

Just wanted to say a quick thank you to everyone who has helped me get this far from Daniel, Peter, Alex and some 15 year old kid to right now a group of 26 including Aaron, nicole and Rober and to everyone else how has helped inbetween. Its crazy to be quiet honest, you guys deserve more credit for this magazine than I do. Thank you Soraan Latif Editor of Seven Shades of Black