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natural and cultural heritage touriSm for increaSed Baltic Sea region identity

treaSureS of the Baltic Sea


Shifting Sand duneS
Discover Moving Landscapes

StoneS and rockS foreSt red Brick gothic Shifting Sand duneS caStleS and muSeumS

Treasures of the Baltic Sea


Shifting sand dunes
Discover Moving Landscapes

editorial

Historic Konu village at Pape

Dear readers,
what comes into your mind when you think of the Baltic Sea Region: endless beaches, sand dunes, birch forests, castles and churches or even amber? Countries around the Baltic Sea share a great variety of natural and cultural resources as well as a long common history. The area, however, is still not well recognised as one common region outside its borders. In the framework of the EU-funded project AGORA 2.0 we aim to improve the common identity of the Baltic Sea Region, based on its rich natural and cultural treasures. The five issues of the Treasures of the Baltic Sea are our appetisers for you to raise your awareness of the unique beauty of the Baltic Sea Region by telling exciting stories and providing short background information at a glance that make you feel like visiting the region. This issue will bring the fascinating world of shifting sand dunes in the Baltic Sea Region closer to you.

Latvia, Cape Kolka

Dipl. oec. Betina Meliss


Editor University of Greifswald Institute of Geography and Geology Makarenkostrae 22 17487 Greifswald Tel. +49 3834 / 864541 agora@uni-greifswald.de

Photos: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

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Editorial Content Shifting Dunes in the Baltic Sea Region Map Denmark - Rbjerg Mile Germany - The Peninsula of Fischland-Dar-Zingst Poland - Shifting Sand Dunes in the Country of Lbork Latvia - The Sunset Trail to the White Dune Latvia - The Prciems Trail of the White Dune Latvia - The Kolkasrags Pine Trail Latvia - The Grey Dune of Pvilosta Latvia - The Mouth of River Uava Latvia - The Mouth of River Gauja Latvia - The Nature Trail Of Pape Latvia - The Psnu Hill Latvia - The Sedums of Lapmeciems Estonia - Luitemaa Nature Reserve Russia - The Curonian Spit in the Kaliningrad Region Lithuania - The Curonian Spit in Lithuania at a Glance Touristic information Imprint

Shifting dunes in the Baltic Sea Region

Preface Shifting dunes at a stormy summer day somewhere at the southern coast of the Baltic Sea: Moving sand is everywhere it crunches between the teeth, it burns in the eyes, and it itches the skin and in the ears. But most of the tourists are fascinated by the beauty of white sand dunes and the eternal character of the moving sand particles it is the expression of the Greek principle of Panta rhei. Shifting dunes with their large dimensions are important elements of the landscape of the Baltic Sea coasts. The dunes play a manifold role in the system of nature and tourism: They are attractions by their own and destinations for nature tourists, but dunes are also threats for infrastructure of tourism and traffic. The following paragraphs will focus on the natural background of the dunes. The endless sand hills along the coasts are the result of a very complex system of climate, soil and biosphere and in detail of weathering, transport and accumulation processes. This introduction helps to understand the existing landscapes, their beauty and the necessity of protection.

White sand dunes what is it and where does it come from? The origin of most of the sand in the Baltic Sea Region is Scandinavia. In fact, the sand

In the following millions of years the granite had an easy life nearly without any disturbances. The surface of the granite body corroded by chemical weathering in wet and warm geological periods;

Material Silicium Dioxide (SiO2); rarely Feldspar and other minerals Size between 0.2 and 0.5 mm (well sorted grain size) Shape nearly round with dull finish

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

is a result of the geological development and especially of the weathering of granites, gneisses and older sand stones of the Baltic Shield during millions of years. Sand was transported southward during the quaternary periods southward to Middle Europe to be altered and transported there again and sometimes to become a shifting dune. To understand the processes of the dunes we should try to follow the life cycle of a single sand grain on its way from northern Sweden to the coast of Mecklenburg Western Pomerania. The sand grain was born more than 500 million years ago in a large magma mass in the earth crust. By cooling down the magma different types of minerals developed: first the dark minerals of the granite like pyroxene and mica, than the different feldspars and at the end the rest quartz (silicium dioxide) our sand grain was born! In opposite to the other minerals, the quartz developed a very stable three-dimensional framework of chemical bonds between the oxygen and silicium atoms with an enormous resistance against chemical and physical attacks. At the end of the process of weathering quartz is often the only relict of the initial rock type.

the quartz was stable enough to survive. But more than one million years ago the climate became colder. Large ice masses covered the granite landscape, and the floating glaciers moved material southward over distances of thousands of kilometres, at the glacier surface and at the bottom. In the summer times the water in the crevasses moved fine materials outside of the ice mass. Our sand grain was moved to a new landscape at the end of the last ice age (15,000 years ago) with melting ice masses, accumulated till, sand, lakes and wild rivers. The rising sea level of the Baltic Sea altered the landscape. The sand grain was transported by rivers and waves and finally accumulated at the beach of the Baltic Sea. Due to the transport processes and the mechanical stress our sand grain lost substance and shrunk to a diameter of less than 0.5 mm and got a round shape. After drying, the wind could mobilise the sand grain and accumulate it again after a short or long way. This is how the sand dune was born. As a short summary, the sand in shifting dunes has the following features:

Latvia, View from the Uzava lighthouse

Germany, Fischland-Dar-Zingst

Germany, Fischland-Dar-Zingst

dunes in the system of ice age landscaPes Other sand grains went a different way there are variants of accumulation and transport on the way to dunes. Firstly, (similar to our sand grain above) sand is transported by the glacier and sorted by running water. The sand grains are accumulated near the glacier in various shapes: sandar, outwash plains, kames, and esker. The cold wind coming down from the glacier blows out fine material and transports and deposits it again to form dunes. Secondly, sand is a component of other sediments, e.g. moraine till. That type of sediment contains a broad spectrum of grain sizes from clay up to boulders. Due to the sticking elements (clay and loam) till is stable and can not be eroded by blowing wind. With exceptions (chalk of Ruegen), nearly all cliffs along the costs consists of moraine till. The rising sea level with the influence of waves and sea currents erodes the cliffs; the material is sorted by the transport competence of the water. As a result, the front of the moraine cliffs is covered by coarse sand and boulders, the finer components are taken away and will be accumulated in shallow water areas with decreasing current speed as sand barriers. Sometimes (in case of storms with high water level) the accumulation processes influence the hinterland; Barriers of coarse sand and stones are deposited hundreds of meters inland. In every case, the sand

barriers are vulnerable to be blown out. The wind can mobilise the sand grains, if the wind is strong enough to overcome the gravity of the sand grains. The coasts of the German Fischland-Darss-Zingstpeninsula and in Poland, Russia as well as Lithuania are typical therefore. Sometimes, there are typical smaller dunes at the upper edge of cliffs. The wind turbulences at the edge cause local sand accumulations. the Process of the sand transPort in detail Wind erosion is influenced by some important factors: erodibility of the sediment, vegetation coverage, and the effective wind speed at the earth surface. Only sand grains between 0.1 and 0.5 mm in diameter are moved directly; larger particles are too heavy for direct transport, smaller particles (loam and clay) are bound by cohesive forces. Wet sand is more stable against wind erosion than dry sand of the same grain size. The main transport process is the saltation. The sand grain lifted up by the wind with a minimal speed is speeded up in the height and falls down after a certain distance; the movement is like jumping. Sand grains of 0.1 0.3 mm diameter reach altitudes of more than 35 dm and are transported over distances of more than 5 m ( it depends on the wind speed). The falling sand grain contains kinetic energy and thus influences the sand grains of a larger grain size: They roll away

through the impact of the falling sand grains which causes them to move over smaller distances. Unfortunately, the process of saltation is a self-energising process. The more the impact of sand grains influences the surface, the more new particles are divorced from the ground and transported through the air. Moving sand in the air is aggressive in itself. A desert storm can cut shapes into solid rocks and smooth and polish surfaces of nearly all materials effortlessly. The typical mushroom shaped rocks in arid areas are witnesses of these types of processes. shaPes of dunes Generally, dunes show a typical cross section. The leeward slope has a typical slope angle of 34 degrees caused by the falling sand grains ( typical dump angle of sand). The windward slope angle is smaller. Internally, the dunes have a typical cross-bedding of the leeward slope angle. This asymmetrical shape is typical for underwater current ripple marks, too. The view from above shows the direct influence of wind speed, direction and obstacles which can be an anchor for the dunes, e.g. trees, houses or others. Dunes of the linear type are typical for constant wind directions. Star dunes are the result of altering wind directions and speeds in combination with some obstacles. The parabolic and barchanoid

Photos: Betina Meliss

Germany, Northern tip of the Dar

Denmark, Rabjerg Mile

types need vegetation for anchoring the edges of the dunes. Reversing dunes are a result of inverting wind directions and show the typical cross section with an asymmetry of the main dune body and the opposite shape at the top. Most of the types can be observed at the Baltic Sea coast, but obviously not in such dimensions like in the deserts in arid regions of the world.

timum). After getting more stability, low growing shrubs like Heather (Calluna vulgaris) and Creeping willow (Salix repens) and first trees like Pine (Pinus sylvestris) and shrubs like Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) settle the dunes. Not only by observing the vegetation, but also by investigating the soil development the stability and the age of a dune complex can be assessed. The accumulation of organic litter from leafs, Sea Grass and other plants gives the start point for developing soil horizons by vertical transport of material like humic acids and oxides of iron, manganese and alloy. Depending on the progress of soil development generations of dunes are defined: White dunes show only a very thin coverage of litter; the soil development is about to start. Grey dunes show a virgin soil with a definitive horizon of organic matter. Brown dunes have a proceeded soil development (podsol) with a horizon with organic matter, a horizon with bleached sand grains and a horizon of accumulated iron and alloy oxides and humic material. Brown dunes are the result of a long-term soil evolution of some hundred years. Normally, they have a stock of pine trees. Only brown dunes have the stability to ride out extreme climatic events like heavy storms of floods. The younger dunes are more or less vulnerable.

staBle or unstaBle? Shifting dunes are an unstable system. The free sand surface is permanently vulnerable to be blown out. A certain degree of stability can only be reached by vegetation. The vegetation can avoid wind erosion and transport effectively. Wind speed at the surface is decreased by friction between wind and surface structures, and finally the sand grains are caught by the plants after transport. Due to the salty water the development of natural dune vegetation is complicated Organic litter deposited by storms during the winter period (e.g. seagrass) is the basement for pioneer plants of the halophyte type like Sea Rocket (Cakile maritima) and Prickly Saltwort (Salsola kali) and finally Sea Couch (Agropyron junceum). In the following years the dune body is desalinated by precipitation and other plant communities start growing, like European Beach Grass (Ammophila arenaria), or the Sea Holly (Eryngium mari-

Photo: 1- Freddie Bijkerk, 2 - kind permission of Skagen Turistforening

the man-made imPact on dunes Human settlements near the coastline have their own tradition for hundreds of years. Fishery and agriculture in the lowlands had been the reason for preferred settlement in coastal areas since the early Neolithic time, even if the first settlers had been forced to choose a dryer ground with the increasing sea level of the Baltic Sea during the Littorina transgression phase. Nevertheless, the pine trees were interesting for the first settlers: for heating, for construction purposes and for wooden boats. In comparison with other species of trees (e.g. oak and beech) the pine tree was easier to work. There is no doubt, that the fist settlers chose the pine trees at the dunes for their purposes, even if the trees in direct neighbourhood to the coastline were of minor quality (buckled growth). Unfortunately, they launched a vicious circle so: The forest clearance caused the mobility of dunes not only in the hinterland, but also in the coastal areas. Some of the first settlements had been given up even since several years because of the shifting sand masses buried everything: the settlements, the agricultural grounds and the first harbours. Not only in prehistoric times, but also in mediaeval times the growing population forced to extend the human settlements again in the direct neighbourhood of dunes.

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Bodden near Fischland-Dar-Zingst

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Lithuania, Curoninan Spit, Hagenas Hill

Lithuania, Curoninan Spit, Vecekrugas Hill

Germany, Fischland-Dar-Zingst

Germany, Fischland-Dar-Zingst

The results of these activities are still shifting dunes with their own specific problems. The unrulable sand masses were on of the reasons of the emigration in the second half of the 19th century. ProBlems With shifting dunes today and the Benefits of dunes Today many shifting dune areas are protected by governmental acts e.g. as nature protection areas, national parks etc. In these areas human settlements are the exception; therefore the impact on settlements is low. However, today shifting sand causes several problems: Shifting sand can reduce the visibility at highways and other streets within seconds seriously; it causes heavy accidents. Moreover, the effort to remove thousands of tons of sand is extensive. Shifting sand

Photo: 1,2 - The Curonian Spit National Park Administration, 3,4 - Betina Meliss

has it own impact on navigation. Not only sand transported by coastal current, but also aeolian sand reduces the depth of navigation channels. The regular digging is expensive. Dunes affect tourism infrastructure. The uncontrolled accumulation of sand cause problems for beaches; the visibility from the boardwalk to the sea is reduced or complete impossible. On the other hand, dunes have their own position in the system of coastal protection, e.g. of sandy low coasts. There dunes are the first step of the protection system (beside dykes, groynes and stone walls and finally the coastal forest), but therefore it is necessary to protect the dunes for blowing away by planting European Beach Grass (and to avoid them for trampling by tourists, too).

Ps: And the future destiny of our sand grain? The dune will be compacted to a solid sand stone, and million years later by reaching a subduction zone the sand grain will be molten again, and the circle is complete By Dr. Ralf Scheibe

denmark 1 Rbjerg Mile

germany 2 The Peninsula of Fischland-Dar-Zingst

Poland 3 Shifting Sand Dunes in the County of Lbork

latVia 4 The Sunset Trail to the White Dune 5 The Prciems Trail of the White Dune 6 The Kolkasrags Pine Trail 7 The Grey Dune of Pvilosta 8 The Mouth of River Uava 9 The Mouth of River Gauja 10 The Nature Trail of Pape 11 The Psnu Hill 12 The Sedums of Lapmeciems

estonia 13 Luitemaa Nature Reserve

russia 14 The Curonian Spit in the Kaliningrad Region

lithuania 15 The Curonian Spit in Lithuania at a Glance

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13 6 5 12 9 4

11 10 15 14 3

rBJerg mile

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Grenen, the northernmost point of Denmark

Sunset over Rbjerg Mile

Visit the largest migrating sand dune in northern europe and experience a variety of unique natural and cultural wonders all easily accessible.
the dune of rBJerg mile Rbjerg Mile is Denmark's largest migrating dune, located at Bunken Klitplantage situated between the cities Skagen and Frederikshavn in Jutland, in the northern part of Denmark. It is the largest moving dune in Northern Europe, and over 250,000 people visit the dune annually. origin of the dune of rBJerg mile For hundreds of years big parts of Denmark were characterised by the western wind creating the landscapes, and moving sand over long stretches while ruining villages and cultivated areas. It was the case especially in Jutland but also in Zealand. The sand drifts resulted in big dunes and desert-like landscapes. It meant that the sand drifts destroyed farmland, roads and drove people away from their homes. Only when the plantation of firs started in the 1800s the sand drift was brought more under human control. Interestingly, The Buried Church (Den tilsandede kirke see picture) still stands as a relic of the time when most of the associated houses and farms disappeared. To stop the sand drifts, the state bought a large proportion of the surrounding area and planted various coniferous trees that were able to tackle the difficult growing conditions. Even though the plantation helped to diminish the sand drifts, it ultimately meant that some magnificent natural areas disappeared, which led to protests from such prominent locals as the author Jeppe Aakjr. The discussion ended when the state bought the area around Rbjerg Mile in 1900 and preserved it by law so that it could remain a natural wonder, a monument and reminder for future generations of what damage the sand drifts had caused for generations of people in the north of Jutland. the dune itself The dune covers an area of approximately 2 km2 and is up to 35 m high. Therefore, Rbjerg Mile is one of the largest dunes in Europe, containing about 3.5 million m3 of sand, thereby forming a "mini desert". On a hike through Rbjerg Mile, there might even be the risk of going into quick-

Photos: 1,2 - Christoph Schmidt kind, 3 - permission of Skagen Turistforening

Rbjerg Mile

denmark

COPENHAGEN

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Den Tilsandede Kirke

sand. Interestingly, on several occasions international film companies have actually used Rbjerg Mile as a setting to shoot desert scenes. rBJerg mile is a shifting coastal dune The wind moves it about 15 m annually in the east-north-easterly direction. The dune thereby leaves a low, moist layer of sand behind it, trailing back westwards from Skagerrak, where the dune originally was formed more than 300 years ago. Rbjerg Mile has u-shaped mounds of sand with convex noses trailed by elongated arms, which make it a parabolic dune. This is due to the fact that the wind keeps the sand in the middle of the dune dry because this part the dune has no access to groundwater, while the sides are wet because they are close to groundwater. Vegetation therefore grows easily along the sides, while the dune (made of sand)

moves faster in the middle leaving quite a spectacular sight from the top. Notably, dunes in deserts are formed in the exact opposite way, since they are far away from groundwater, making the arms come forward instead. The top of the dune is a good vantage point to enjoy a unique view over the beautiful nature surrounding Skagens top. In fact, more than 6000 acres of dune and dune heaths are preserved in one of Denmark's most distinctive natural areas. Also, behind the dune itself you can see, among other things, skeletal pines that had been covered by the dune for more than 40 years and have now come into view after its passage. conserVation of the dune Through conservation the dunes continued voyage has been secured, although

it has not yet been taken into account that it will actually bury the main road to Skagen in a 100 years from now. In fact, all indications are that that the dune will continue its journey towards the Kattegat. Therefore, if no other measures are taken it is estimated it will reach the road in the year 2200 and end its days in the Kattegat by the year 2230. As aforementioned, Rbjerg Mile has been preserved to allow future generations to understand the problem of sand dune drift, whereas the clear majority of other dunes have been stabilised by planting. The central area of the dune was purchased by the state in 1900 (to secure free passage for the dune), and after the Conservation of Nature Act in 1917 further surrounding areas were purchased. The dune is, however, now drifting out of the state-owned area and further conservation legislation is discussed.

Photo: Christoph Schmidt

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actiVities at rBJerg mile:

Plants and Wildlife in the area of rBJerg mile The dune is free of vegetation but the area in front of the dune with its many temporary ponds and wet areas contains a large number of rare plants that have adapted to the particular environment. Amongst other plants, 10 species of the genus Juncus and Denmarks smallest plant Crassula aquatica can be found here. On a spring day in Rbjerg Mile, the area is filled with the sound of thousands of croaking beach toads (Bufo calamita) Here, you actually find most of this kind in Denmark. Also, adders (Vipera berus) occur commonly in the terrain. Careful observation, however, is needed to explore the beautiful snake as it disappears at the slightest tremor in the ground. The best chance of finding one is on a sunny spring day, where adders are tanning on south-

facing slopes. The area around Rbjerg Mile is also known for its migrating birds, especially during spring. The huge terrain west of the dune is often used as a resting place by migrating eagles and owls, just as roosting cranes can be seen by the small lakes. Rare breeding birds include tawny pipits (Anthus campestris), curlews (Numenius phaeopus) and cranes (Grus grus). actiVities at rBJerg mile and in the area surrounding the dune In the local tourist shops, in the tourist information offices and on the internet it is possible to get a brochure including a map with four different hiking trails in the dune. The longest route is 9,5 km long and the shortest 3,5 km. At nearby places such as Hulsig and Bunken visitors can find beautiful beaches for people of all ages. The area offers also a biking route and different horse trails. It is possible to arrange for guided tours focusing on the surround-

ing nature and fishing in the lakes of Lilles and Birkes. Being a part of nature, Rbjerg Mile is open year-round and free of charge. The best months for a visit are June, July and August due to the weather conditions. Rbjerg Mile is situated in the top of North Jutland with many beautiful sites. For example, Skagen is known as the town with the most sunshine hours in Denmark, and is surrounded by unique scenery and many white sand beaches. There are also many exciting museums (especially art museums), monuments and castles in the area. In Skagens pedestrian street you will find an exciting choice of specialist shops, whilst at the harbour red warehouses are used as fishmongers and restaurants. For tourists interested in nature, Grenen is certainly also worthwhile visiting. It is the most northern part of Denmark, and the two seas Skagerak and Kattegat meet at the tip of it. It is a nature preserved area, but 110.000 ships (those weighing more

Photos: kind permission of Skagen Turistforening

hiking trails Beatiful Beaches horse trails guided tours fishing at lilles and Birkes

denmark

COPENHAGEN

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contact

skagen turist information


Vestre Strandvej 10 DK-9990 Skagen Denmark Tel. +45 98 44 13 77 info@skagen-tourist.dk www.skagen-tourist.dk

than 150 ton) pass Grenen every year. In order to get there, the small bus Sandormen transports visitors from the parking lot next to the Grenen art museum for 20 DKK for adults and 10 DKK for children. As one can see, that the area surrounding Rbjerg Mile is also quite interesting for tourists. Over time the sea has deposited huge areas of sand, north of Skagen increasing the size of Jutland considerably. To keep ships from hitting these massive deposits of sand new lighthouses have to be built every one hundred years, because the old lighthouses ended up being far inland over time. Today, these deposits and lighthouses stand as a testimony of the changes of the landscape of northern Jutland. accommodation in the area In the area of Rbjerg Mile there are many possibilities of accommodation. There are two places where it is possible to either

sleep in a shelter or in a tent if visitors bring one themselves. There is also a small camp for organised groups (with permission). Moreover, there is a camping site that is well designed and big, suitable for longer stays. Rbjerg Mile is only 16 km southwest of Skagen. Skagen has plenty of opportunities for accommodation as the area offers seven camping sites, 19 hotels/ inns, a holiday centre as well as numerous second homes and private homes and flats that can be rented. transPortation to the dune and the surrounding area There are different busses that take you to Rbjerg Mile from the surrounding cities, and it is easy to get there by car. Visitors can fly directly to Aalborg Airport from Copenhagen, Oslo, Paris, Berlin and London and then onwards to Skagen and its surroundings with train, bus or car. The distance from Aalborg to Skagen is

106 km. Ferries from Larvik, Kristiansand, Stavanger, Bergen and Oslo in Norway as well as Gothenburg in Sweden can also take you to the region. Coming from other areas in Denmark, there are several options to get to the region by express bus. Abildskou operates between Copenhagen and Aalborg, and Thinggaard runs between Esbjerg and Frederikshavn, as well as Odense, Kolding and Aalborg. DSB operates train services on the Aalborg Frederikshavn line. The train stops in Hjrring, Sindal, (Tolne, Kvissel) and Frederikshavn, with further connections to all major cities in Denmark. By Mads Willemoes Hjardemaal and Lise Lyck

Photo: Christoph Schmidt

the peninSula of fiSchland-darSS-ZingSt

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Typical gable signs

anyone who has ever dreamed of walking along wide beaches with bright sand accompanied by the beauty of unspoiled sand dunes does not need to travel far away to experience just that.the peninsula fischlanddarss-Zingst at the Baltic coast of germany is always worth a visit.

lasting memories at the darsser Weststrand Fischland-Darss-Zingst is a peninsula at the coast of Mecklenburg-West Pomerania between Rostock and the isle of Rgen. It is among the most popular tourist destinations on the German Baltic coast and welcomes its visitors in the famous seaside resorts Prerow and Zingst. About 60 km of beaches are waiting to be discovered. For all visitors who like to experience a more quiet part of the peninsula, away from the lively tourist centres, there is the beautiful beach at the western shore

called Darsser Weststrand. Between the fishermens village of Wustrow and Darsser Ort visitors can find one of the most beautiful beaches of the coast. The 10 km of beach are part of the National Park Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft. Accordingly, no maintenance is carried out in this area according to the National Parks official motto Let nature take its course (Natur Natur sein lassen). After storms it might happen that fallen trees line the beach. It will look different and new things will catch the walkers eye at every visit. Things that everybody will

probably keep in mind are the windswept trees in the dunes as a result of frequent strong winds from the sea. The German word for these trees describes their unusual shape very well. It means that they flee from the wind (Windflchter). In the evenings or on misty winter days the trees create the mystical atmosphere, which has made the peninsula popular with painters and artists for decades. a look Back in history After the last Ice Age, Fischland- DarssZingst consisted of three separate isles but

Photos: Betina Meliss

germany

BERLIN

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Darss door (Darsser Haustr)

Northern tip of the Darss

due to continuing erosion the isles merged over the centuries forming todays long hook-shaped structure. On Fischland, an isthmus between the mainland and the former island Darss, between Wustrow and Ahrenshoop, it is still possible to find high cliffs from glacial till and sand. About 6000 years ago, these cliffs were at least twice as high as they are today. The material eroded from the cliffs by the forces of wind and waves of the Baltic Sea has been shifted north-westwards along the shore for thousands of years. This sand forms the wide and unspoiled beaches of the Darsser Weststrand stretching towards the northern tip at Darsser Ort. From there material is re-deposited further west resulting in wide beaches with fine sand along the coast of Darss and Zingst. Every year, about half a meter of coast is carried away from Fischland and the Darsser Weststrand. Therefore, extensive

coastal protection measures are needed along the whole coast of Fischland-DarssZingst. Between the peninsula and the mainland, visitors can find a natural feature which is unique in the Baltic Sea Region: the Bodden. These former open bays are enclosed by peninsulas, spits or islands. Bodden only have a narrow connection to the open sea or to adjacent bodden. There is a chain of bodden from Fischland-Darss-Zingst to Hiddensee, Rgen and Usedeom along the coast of Mecklenburg-West Pomerania. Due to the fact that bodden-type bays are shallow and contain brackish water, they have a very distinctive flora and fauna. They are rich in fish and important resting places for migratory birds like cranes and geese. East of the seaside resort Zingst, in the Sundischen Wiesen, a meadow and heathland, there are observation platforms from where visitors can view thousands

of resting cranes. From the historical point of view, it is also interesting to know that the peninsula marks the former border between Mecklenburg and Pomerania. Fischland in the southwest was part of Mecklenburg while Darss and Zingst belonged to Pomerania. For centuries, people on Fischland-DarssZingst used to be seafarers, fishermen, and famers. However, at the end of the 19th century Germanys economic situation underwent significant changes and lead to the development of a small but growing tourism industry. More people from the cities could afford to go on holiday. This is why inhabitants of Zingst, Prerow, Wustrow und Dierhagen set up the first accommodation for tourists from the cities, leading to the development of seaside resorts on Fischland-Darss-Zingst. At the same time, Ahrenshoop became popular as a colony for artists.

Photos: Freddie Bijkerk

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At the beach near Ahrenshoop

Evening mood

Especially painters were fascinated with the picturesque scenery of cliffs, beaches and the peacefulness of the bodden as well as the unique lighting conditions throughout the seasons. In 1892, the painter Paul Mller-Kaempff laid the foundations for Ahrenshoops development as a colony for painters by buildingthe first painters houses and a guesthouse for art students. When visiting Ahrenshoop today, the special atmosphere can still be felt because there are many galleries and cultural events that emphasize Ahrenshoops distinctive character. floWers on doors Visitors looking for something they cannot find somewhere else will definitely find what they are looking for on FischlandDarss-Zingst. Some houses have kept their traditional colourful front doors. These doors are very characteristic of the region. People used to paint and decorate the

doors with many different subjects that were part of their daily life. They are reminiscent of the peninsulas maritime past and its history of seafarers. But they also show pictures that were to protect house owners from natural disasters and even witchcraft. Suns are shown particularly often on the doors. They symbolise a safe return from the sea. Although the doors are becoming less, visitors can still find them in some places, especially on the Darss. In the Darss-Museum in Prerow there are more information and many more examples of the Darss door (Darsser Haustr) to be found. dunes and forests Towards the northern tip of the Darss lies a pristine landscape, which is constantly changing depending on the ocean current and the wind. Here, sand is continuously accumulated and re-deposited. The resulting landscape comprises sandbanks,

berms and small lakes cut off from the Baltic Sea. Further inland the landscape turns into dunes of different age followed by the gradually developing forest. The Darss forest, in German Darwald, has a size of about 5,000 ha and is situated in the core zone of the National Park. Therefore, there are no settlements or any other human interference apart from a lighthouse at Darsser Ort and the Natureum, a branch of the German Maritime Museum in Stralsund displaying flora and fauna of the Darss. Both are only accessible on foot, bike or horse, because cars are not allowed. While walking through the forest, visitors can see how the land has developed over time. As a result of constant growth of the peninsula, the forest shows different stages of development. There is a system of coastal berms and damp troughs ( locally known as Reffen and Riegen)

Photos: 1 - Betina Meliss, 2,3 - Freddie Bijkerk

germany

BERLIN

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contact

tourist information natureum darer ort


Darer Ort 1-3 18375 Born a. Dar Tel. +49 38233 304 info@meeresmuseum.de www.meeresmuseum.de

Wieck, darer arche, nationalpark- und gstezentrum


(National Park Visitor Centre) Bliesenrader Weg 2 18375 Wieck a. Dar running from east to west. The higher berms are predominantly covered with pine trees, English oaks and beeches. On the lower-lying troughs you find alders and large brackens. Due to the fact that the sea level was higher in the past, it is still possible to see the 3 6 m high cliffs of the old coastline within the Darss forest. The best place to observe the characteristic landscape is the top of the lighthouse. It is 35 m high and was built in 1848. The lighthouse is open for visitors all year and allows wonderful views of the Darss, Rostock and the Danish coastline. For centuries, Darss forest was deforested and used as pastureland. Other parts were also repeatedly used as hunting ground from the middle ages up to GDR times. For this reason, there is still a high number of red deer causing damage to the vegetation. Not all areas of the forest have fully recovered from the centuries of extensive use yet. But since it has become a National Park a lot of effort has been put in restoring the natural state of the vegetation. In many areas the nature is now completely left to its own devices. More information on the National Park Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft can be obtained from the National Park Centre Darer Arche in Wieck. Based in a former school building, it features various exhibitions about the National Park, the bodden, and explains how this unique landscape was formed. Visitors who are interested in the history of the Sundischen Wiesen and, more importantly, its avifauna, should not miss the Information Centre Zingst / Sundische Wiese. By Christoph Schmidt Tel. +49 38233-7038- 0 info@darsser-arche.de www.darsser-arche.de

information centre zingst / sundische Wiese


100m east of the car park of Hotel Schlchen The Information Centre is only accessible by bike or on foot via the dyke

shifting sand dunes in the County of Lbork

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The County of Lbork comprises 5 communes: 2 towns (Lbork and eba) and 3 rural areas (Cewice, Nowa Wie Lborska and Wicko). 64,000 residents populate an area of 707 square kilometres. There are wide sandy beaches to stroll along. The Sowiski National Park invites guests to walk along shifting sand dunes. There visitors can still see wild, quiet spots untouched by human activity and admire the abundance of fauna and flora as well as landscapes of great scenic beauty. It is recommended to see the sand dunes near eba. eba is a known health and tourist resort as well as a fishing port. The town by the mouth of the eba River is situated between two lakes: the ebsko and the Sarbsko. One can find the forestdune sanctuary "Mierzeja Sarbska" in the east of the town, whereas in the west, there is the Slovinski National Park with shifting sand dunes unique on a global scale.

Protection of shifting sand dunes in Poland The Sovinski National Park (Polish: Sowiski Park Narodowy; SPN) is one of 23 national parks and one of 2 seaside parks in Poland. It is situated on the Baltic coast, between eba and Rowy, in Pomeranian Voivodeship, northern Poland. The park was founded in 1967 to preserve the incomparable beauty, the system of seaside lakes, bogs, peatbogs, meadows, seaside woods and forests, but first of all, to maintain a dune belt of spits with shifting dunes, unique in Europe. The natural value of the SNP is proven by the fact of its placement in international networks of protected areas, such as HELCOMBSPA or World Nature Sanctuary. In 1977, UNESCO designated the park a biosphere reserve according to its Programme on Man and the Biosphere (MaB). The Sowiski wetlands were designated

a Ramsar site in 1995. Currently, the SPN is also an International Birds Sanctuary. Furthermore, the SNP forms the core of "Slovinian Sanctuary" and "Slovinian Sea-Shore" - areas defined according to the same criteria in all countries of the European Union, following the guidelines of the Birds Directive and the Habitat Directive. Today the park covers 186.18km2, of which 102.13km consist of waters and 45.99km of forests. The northern boundary of the park consists of 32.5 km of coastline. The strictly preserved zone covers 56.19km. The County of Lbork lies in the buffer zone of the Slovinski National Park. However, the easiest way to see shifting sand dunes is to go to eba and then to Rbka to get to the main gate of the park. The park is named after the Slavic (later Germanized) people known as the Slovincians (Polish: Sowicy), who used to live in

Photos: 1 - Andrzej Dabeks, 2,3 - Tomasz Awdziejczyk

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this swampy, inaccessible area at the edge of Lake eba. There is an open-air museum in the village of Kluki, presenting aspects of those people's former life and culture. In the past, the parks area was a Baltic Sea bay. The seas activity, however, created sand dunes, which iseparated the bay from the Baltic Sea in the course of time. As waves and wind carry sand inland, the dunes slowly move at a speed of 3 to 10 m per year. Some dunes are quite high - up to 30 m. The highest peak of the park Rowokol (115 m above sea level) is also an excellent observation point. The "moving dunes" are regarded as a curiosity of nature. Waters, which occupy 55% of the parks area, are mainly lakes - ebsko (71.40km, maximum depth 6.3 m), Gardno (24.68km, maximum depth 2.6 m) and Dolgie Wielkie (1.46km, maximum depth

2.9 m). Both ebsko and Gardno lake were previously bays. There are also 7 rivers crossing the park, the largest ones being the eba and the upawa. The forests in the park are mainly made up of pines. These trees cover 80% of the wooded areas. There are also several types of peat bogs in the park. Regarding animals, the most numerous are birds with 257 species. This is because the park is located on the routes of migrating birds. They feel safe here because human activities are limited. The most interesting species are: erne (white-tailed eagle), eagle owl, crow, swan and various kinds of ducks. Among mammals, one has to point out deer, elk, wild boar and hare. adVice for Visitors of sloVinski national Park At present there are over 170 kilometres of routes. Foot tracks are rendered ac-

cessible for bicycle tourism. We cordially invite to take the advantage of using this active form of recreation. In case of not having one's own bicycle, the rental shops situated in Rbka may be helpful. In the summer months there is the possibility of cruising on ebsko Lake on the passenger boat "Ohar" with the itinerary of ebaKluki-eba, or taking the boats "Alka" and "Kormoran" on the route eba-RbkaWyrzutnia-eba. Practicing water sports is permitted only in the specially defined zones in the lakes of ebsko and Gardno. The same regulations apply to angling from the coast or boat. Dog enthusiasts do not have to separate from their favourites while being in the park. However, for the good of the animals and other visitors, the dog owners are requested to use the lead and muzzle. Horse-riding enthusiasts are recommended to attend horse-riding classes in

Photo: Tomasz Awdziejczyk

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Nowcin.There is a ban on using wheeled vehicles apart from specially designated areas in the SPN. The number and location of car parks facilitates to plan the sojourn and meet all the "corners" of the Park. The entry as well as the use of the car park is to be charged. Unlimited filming and photographing is permitted only on the selected tourist tracks and transit routes. Information on the rules and regulations of land and water tourism may be obtained from the Head Office of the SPN in Smoldzino. By Katarzyna Dampc

Photos: Betina Meliss

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contact
Centrum Informacji Turystycznej Brama Kaszubskiego Piercienia Al. Niepodlegoci 6 84-300 Lbork Tel. +48 59 842 01 34 lebork@kaszubskipierscien.pl www.lck-fregata.pl Centrum Informacji Turystycznej Brama Kaszubskiego Piercienia, ul. Kociuszki 121 84-360 eba Tel. +48 519 400 701 leba@kaszubskipierscien.pl www.leba.eu Gminny Orodek Kultury w Nowej Wsi Lborskiej ul. Lborska 20, 84-351 Nowa Wie Lborska, Tel. +48 59 8612 253 kpruszak.promocja@interia.pl www.goknwl.pl Gminny Orodek Kultury i Sportu w Wicku Wicko 39, 84-352 Wicko Tel. +48 59 861 11 17 gokis@wicko.pl www.gokis.wicko.eu

Informacja Turystyczna Stowarzyszenie LOT eba ul. 11 listopada 5A 84-360 eba Tel. +48 59 866 25 65, www.lotleba.pl biuro@lotleba.pl

Gminne Centrum Kultury 84-312 Cewice ul. Wgrzynowicza 16 Tel. +48 59 861 14 90 gck.cewice@wp.pl www.gck.cewice.pl

Photo: Tomasz Awdziejczyk

latVia

the SunSet trail to the White dune

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View from the observation platform

The Sunset Trail starts in the centre of Saulkrasti town and takes you to the White Dune. It is situated on the right side of the river Inupes mouth. It is covered with old pine forest. The white, 18 m high outcrop of sand served as a landmark for fishermen in the past. The White Dune formed as winds carried the sand from the beach over clay sediments of the Baltic Ice Lake. Several layers of soil buried within the dune give witness to the drifting of the dune some 150-200 years ago. Local fishermen and farmers at Btciems initiated afforestation of the drifting dunes. At that time, the 30 m high dunes, which are now covered with forest, were bare, shifting and even buried a farmstead. To speed up afforestation, mountain pines were planted. The White Dune was partly washed away in a heavy storm in 1969, and a 4-6 m high precipice formed. Today, wind and sand have levelled out the dune

surface. It has been fixed with willow-twigs and forest has grown. The largest pines are more than 170-190 years old. Notable features of the pines are their large trunks and branches, the scars obtained during their lifetime and the typical crocodile skin the bark forms rhombuses resembling those of the reptiles scales. Scots Pine (Pinus Silvestris) is one of the most common tree species in Latvia. It grows in dry, meagre sandy soil, in dunes as well as in marsh. However, it does not stand overshadowing. Forest fires help pines to get rid of competitors as pine endures fire better than other trees because of its thick bark and high crown. The wood exudes resin and burn wounds close quickly. Fire cleans space for seedlings of young pines. Pines can live up to 300-350 years. The ground cover in dune forests is very sensitive. If the sparse vegetation is destroyed, not only the natural biodiversity and landscape is damaged, but also the dangerous shifting dunes might possibly

contact saulkrasti tourism information


Ainazu 13b, Saulkrasti, LV 2160, Latvia Tel. + 371 67952641 tic@saulkrasti.lv www.saulkrasti.lv

wake up. Embryonic dunes, White (yellow) dunes, Grey dunes and Wooded dunes are biotopes protected by the EU. Grey Dunes are protected by Latvian law as well. A wooden trail with an observation platform was built to protect the White Dune and to facilitate sightseeing. In winter, a skiing trail in the vicinity of the White Dune is arranged. By Gita Memmna, Saulkrasti Tourist Information Oce

Photos: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the prciemS White dune trail

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The trail winds along the bluffs of the lower River Pilsupe and reveals a fascinating sight of three white dune exposures (the largest is called the White Dune). The White Dune is ca. 20 m high. It was formed ca. 6000 years ago, in the period of the Littorina Sea, which was a predecessor of the Baltic Sea. The first Stone Age settlement on the north-western coast of Latvia was found there in 1934 by geologist S. Burhards. In the sand, some 500 m from the sea, he found pottery fragments, a sandstone hone, a piece of flint, parts of bones and an amber bead. He handed the findings over to the National Museum of History. In October 1934, the site was checked by archaeologist E. turms, who found the archaeological layer, typical for such settlements, in the landslides of the Pilsupe riverbanks. From 1936 to 1938, excavations were undertaken. In total, seven settlements of different age were detected and

many artefacts found, including fragments of the so-called Srnate and pit-comb pottery, as well as some pieces of corded pottery. Based on these findings, the settlement is dated back to the beginning or middle of the 3rd millenary B.C., and it was inhabited until the beginning of the 2nd millenary B.C. Especially remarkable are three clay figures in human shape which were probably used for religious cult purposes. Since 1993, archaeologist Ilzes Loze has discovered several pit-comb ware culture settlements in the larger area around Prciems village. They are known as the the ipka settlements in research literature.

contact tourism information oce of roja county


Roja Elgas 33 Tel. +371 63269594 tic@roja.lv www.roja.lv/tour

Sources: 1. I. Roze, Talsi Tourist Information Office 2. Guidebook Talsu rajona pilskalni, kulta vietas un senkapi (Hillforts, cult sites and burial sites in Talsi district) (J.Asaris) 2005

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the kolkaSragS pine trail

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Cape Kolka

The Kolkasrags Pine Trail is in Sltere National Park. The trail (partly made of wood) introduces to the habitats of dunes and century-old pines. Biologists estimate that the oldest tree, the mother of pines, could be around 200 years old. Coastal pine forests serve as a barrier between the sea and land protecting inland areas from impact of the sea and winds. Felling coastal forests was forbidden by law already back in 1643, during the Duchy of Courland. Still, due to economic activities, the seashore forests were often felled and fires occurred there occasionally. As a result, the sand, which had been stabilised by trees for centuries, started drifting at Cape Kolka. In the 1930s, there were about 142 ha of sandy areas in the Sltere National Park and 11.5 ha of those were drifting sand. To stop the drifting, the sand areas were carefully afforested. Afforestation started before World War I and was completed in the 1970s. First, the sand

had to be stopped in order to plant new trees. Just 26 km to the south from Kolka, there was one of the largest sand dunes in Latvia, 25 km in length. Every year it devoured 0.3 ha of land. The sand was stopped by covering it with heather, twigs and branches of pines and junipers and by planting pine trees. Today, the old low pine trees tell about Kolkas sand that used to drift. After storms, when the water washes the bluff and tree roots are exposed, one can see that the tree trunks were once covered with sand more than 1 m high. The trees on the seacoast usually have crooked trunks and flag-shaped crowns formed under the influence of persisting sea winds. These forests are today a designated biotope: Wooded dunes of the coast. Stable white dunes cannot form in Cape Kolka as they are washed away by sea

currents during spring and autumn storms. Embryonic dunes develop here with plants that usually grow in dunes. These plants have adapted well to poor soils, heat, drought, and the saline sea water. The most common species are searocket (Cakile baltica), sea sandwort (Honckenia peploides), narrowleaf hawkweed (Hieracium umbellatum), marram (Ammophila arenaria), lyme-grass (Leymus arenarius), sand sedge (Carex arenaria).

Sources: 1. Dace Smte, Andra Ratkevia, Latvian Nature Conservation Agency, Kurzeme Regional Administration 2. Alanda Plia, Dundaga municipality 2. Jnis Dambtis, Kolka municipality

Please see page 30 for contact details.

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the grey dune of pViloSta

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The Grey Dune of Pvilosta nature reserve covers 42 ha of land and has been designated to protect Latvias widest dune (1.5 km parallel to the sea coast), and the biotopes and species found there. A two-storied observation platform was built to savour the scenery. In Soviet time, local fishermen used to dry seaweed in dunes for the production of agar, and thus rich vegetation developed in the dune. The Grey Dune is part of a unique landscape with a stunning sea view, the traditional architecture of Pvilosta fishing town, and biotopes, including protected areas, which border the nature reserve: pine forests, embryonic dunes and white dunes,occur here. The Biotope 2130 Fixed dunes with herbaceous vegetation (grey dunes) can be found here. At present pines are taking over the biotope. Therefore some maintenance activities are required. The Grey Dune

is most beautiful in the second half of July and in August when the blossoming breckland thyme (Thymus serpyllum) and narrowleaf hawkweed (Hieracium umbellatum) colour the dune in shades of yellow and violet. The most typical species here are pasqueflower (Pulsatilla pretense), grey hair-grass (Corynephorus canescens), blue hair-grass (Koeleria glauca), and sand pink (Dianthus arenarius). The Grey Dune earned wide recognition when a group of enthusiasts actively campaigned for six years to achieve the status of a nature reserve. Guna Grimsta, a group representative, remembers that they organised events and activities throughout Latvia involving large parts of the society, prominent personalities, church parishes, NGOs, pupils and university students. The activists were writing letters, making videos, doing research articles, composing music, collecting signatures and submit-

ting proposals to achieve the official status of an especially protected nature site for the Grey Dune. They organised seminars, concerts, art plein aires and exhibitions, educational excursions, church services, meetings with high officials and on-site visits to the Grey Dune. In 2006, the group received the title Proudness of Latvia awarded by the national TV3 broadcasting company and the daily paper Diena. The nature reserve Grey Dune of Pvilosta was established on 30 October 2007. It is the most recent Natura2000 site in Latvia.

Sources: 1. Dace Smte, deputy director, Latvian Nature Conservation Agency, Kurzeme Regional Administration 2. Guna Grimsta, the Pvilosta Grey Dune Protection group

Please see page 30 for contact details.

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the mouth of riVer uaVa

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View from the Uava lighthouse

The trail in the nature reserve Uava tells about grey dunes which have survived thanks to border restrictions and the presence of military. The trail starts at the parking lot at the mouth of the Uava River. It is one of the few natural estuaries in Europe. One can also see the tacis, which is an industrial installation for lamprey (Lampetra fluviatilis) fishing during their spawning migration period. The circular trail winds from the mouth of the Uava to the north along the coastline (the beach is covered with sand and pebbles) and returns to the starting point through grey dunes. Along the trail, one can observe a distinct white dune with the rare plant species Linaria loeselii, Lathyrus maritimus, Anthyllis arenaria, Tragopogon heterospermus. About 1 km from the mouth of the river, in the sea, one can see the wreck of a sailing ship. The way back opens a beautiful view of

the range of grey dunes. Unfortunately, scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) trees start taking over the area. There are three important biotopes according to EU classification: Fixed dunes with herbaceous vegetation, Decalcified fixed dunes with Empetrum nigrum and Dunes with Salix arenaria, forming a unique mosaic. Because the area is a former military site, some military constructions can still be seen like horseshoeshaped sand ramparts by the road in the grey dunes. They were built to disguise military vehicles in case of a sea attack. By the Kangroti graveyard, towards the Uava River, there is an underground pillbox.

contact nature conservation agency kurzeme regional administration


lteres meniecba, Dundaga district, LV-3270 Tel. + 371 632 860 00 kurzeme@daba.gov.lv www.daba.gov.lv

Source: Dace Smte, Latvian Nature Conservation Agency, Kurzeme Regional Administration

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the mouth of riVer gauJa

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Gauja is the most beautiful river of Vidzeme. On the seashore between the mouths of river Gauja and river Daugava, one of the largest dune ranges in Latvia is situated, with distinctive parabolic dunes covered with forest (wooded dunes). The mouth of the river Gauja is unique as it is one of the few major rivers in Latvia and in the EU countries to flow into the sea naturally. There is no harbour or any other hydro-engineering construction. It is a popular recreation area in the vicinity of Riga and Saulkrasti, while, unfortunately, the lack of infrastructure makes it suffer from anthropogenic load. Not far from the river mouth, hidden in dunes, there are pillboxes which were built in the 1920s or 1930s as anti-airborne barriers. There was a whole range of them along the coastline from the mouth of

the river Lielupe to the mouth of the river Gauja forming a part of the Daugavgrva Fortress fortifications. The pillboxes are made of concrete, about 1.5 m thick. Every year, on the 3rd Sunday in August, a lamprey festival takes place in Carnikava town by the Gauja river mouth. Carnikava is called the Lamprey Capital as it is famous for its lamprey fishing tradition and generous catches. The mouth of the River Gauja is a good bird-watching area, especially in spring and autumn when one can observe the highest variety of species. It is part of Piejras (seashore) Nature Park.

contact
nature conservation agency Vidzeme regional administration
vidzeme@daba.gov.lv www.daba.gov.lv

carnikava tourism information centre


Stacijas 2A, Carnikava, Carnikava district, LV-2163 Tel. +371 67708443 tic@carnikava.lv www.tourism.carnikava.lv

By Agnese Balandia, Latvian Nature Conservation Agency

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the nature trail of pape

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Historic Konu Village at Pape

The nature trail was built in 2003, supported by the WWF, the Latvian Environment Protection Fund, the International volunteering organization supporting conservation initiatives in the United Kingdom (BTCV) involving volunteers from the municipal parishes Nca and Rucava. Pape was one of the largest fishing villages in the Kurzeme region after World War I. For generations, fishing was the main means of subsistence for the local inhabitants. They built their homes from natural materials wood, reed, straw and boulders. Most of the buildings have reed roofs. The Pape Nature Park was established in 1993 to protect the biological diversity in the Nida marsh, the Lake Pape, the Baltic Sea coast, and migrating as well as nesting birds as Pape is one of the most important and largest bird migration sites in the Baltics. The trail exposes the surrounding

landscapes and related biotopes dunes, forest, grasslands and bogs as well as bird and animal species found there. On the trail there is a bird watching tower and two birdwatcher hides. You can see the rivers Paurupe and Lgupe, beaver activity areas, grasslands, a black alder forest, a spruce forest, floodland, wild horses, aurochs, the ilu lime tree, the Holy Grove, the Ezerskolas sacrificial stone, the Pape ornithological field station, the Papes polder grasslands and the Pape lighthouse. There are resting places en route. The trail leads through the historical ou village with the traditional coastal fishing village architecture of buildings and yards. The trail in the Pape Nature Park is 9.1 km long (5.1 km in one direction on an unpaved road, 4 km back along the seashore).

contact Pape nature Park fondation


Tel. + 371 29224331 dppape@inbox.lv www.pdf-pape.lv

rucava tourism information centre


Tel. + 371 29134903 rucava.tic@inbox.lv www.rucava.lv

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the pSnu hill

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The Pusenu Hill is one of the highest dunes in Latvia, located between the villages Bernti and Jrmalciems. It is 37 m high and offers a magnificent view of the sea and natural pine forests. The highest dunes in Latvia stand to the south of Jrmalciems village: the Psnu hill, the upu hill, the Mietragkalns or Tiesas hill, the Pu hill, the Garais hill, the trais hill, the Lvas hill. The Psnu dune is the highest of these dunes, which are all called hills by the local people. The Psnu hill evolved between 1785 and 1835, when shifting sand became extremely dangerous. Several homesteads were buried in sand, among them Psni, where a foresters family lived. The family is said to have moved to Brta. The dune was named after the buried homestead. Jkabs Janevskis, a Latvian writer, wrote in his book Nca: In olden times, large pine trees were growing in the dunes on the coast of Nca and they stood steady and

firm. But in Swedish times (around 1650), the Swedes built a large kiln for charcoal and tar. Pine wood and stumps provided an excellent material for this. Once a big fire rose, and the charcoal kiln burned down as well as the whole pine forest. The remaining stumps and bare trunks in the vast burnout could not hold the stormdriven sand; it flew further and further burying not only the burned-out forest, but also the nearest fields. In wintertime, when the vast, low marshy grasslands were covered with ice, jets of sand drifted further over its surface, and soon most of the grasslands and large meadows turned into sandy heath-land and dunes. To reconstruct Liepja, severely damaged during World War II, a silicate brick factory was built in the town. The main raw material was white sand and it was taken from the Berntu forest. In the 1960s the workers started to dig off the Green Dune

contact nica tourism information


Brtas 6 Nca, Ncas county LV 3473, Latvia Tel. + 371 63489501 turisms@nica.lv

and the White Dune, later also the Psnu hill. The excavators used to work day and night, in three shifts. The work stopped around 1980 as there was no more sand suitable for the production of brick. Today, a trail facilitates walking in the Psnu dune in the Berntu Nature Park.

Photo: kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

latVia

the SedumS of lapmeciemS

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At the beach in Lapmeciems

In the dunes of Lapmeciems, one can still find interesting historical monuments of fishermen life, for example sedums, former fishing boat piers, where fishermen built their net huts and kept inventory. From there they went to the sea and came back, and, while the fishing nets where drying on the poles, the fishermen were talking. The sedums of Lapmeciems are under the status of architectural heritage of local importance and are waiting for reconstruction. Today, there are three huts, well visible from the sea. If you look for them driving on the the main road, there is a landmark a metal bull installed to advertise a local metal working company. The road passing it leads straight to the sedums and to the beach.

In the nearby Ragaciems village the local fishermen have reconstructed, with their own labour and money, some old net huts in memory of their grandfathers. Reconstruction is still going on, and the already rebuilt net huts have been put in active use. Lapmeciems is also a promising bird watching site because migrating birds are attracted by seaweed cast ashore. The sedums in the villages of Lapmeciems and Ragaciems are part of the emeri National Park.

contact the lapmezciems museum


Lapmeciems Engure county Liepu 4, Latvia Tel. + 371 631 632 40 lapmezciemamuzejs@gmail.com

Sources: 1. Agnese Balandia, Latvian Nature Conservation Agency, Pierga regional administration 2. Ingrda Smukova, Tukums Tourist information

Photos: 1,2 - kind permission of Lauku ceotjs, 3 - Daniel Engert

eStonia

luitemaa nature reSerVe

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Rannametsa-Tolkuse viewing tower

A bog lake in Luitemaa

Luitemaa Nature Reserve includes the most beautiful nature areas in southwestern Estonia. Luitemaa means the land of dunes in Estonian. It is a 13km long stretch along the Prnu Bay shoreline between Viste and Hdemeeste villages, with shallow waters, vast coastal grasslands, the highest dune range in Estonia and the Tolkuse bog (Tolkuse raba). There is the Tolkuse bog trail (2.2 km) leading to the largest lake in the bog ( approx. 96 x 210 m) and to Tornimgi, the highest dune in Estonia with a viewing platform at a heigth of 18 m. The visitors rise 50 m above sea level and can see the Kihnu Island from there. The area is popular for hiking as well as mushroom and berry picking.

contact luitemaa nature guide


Marika Kose + 372 565 61373 marika.kose@mail.ee

Photos: 1 - Liis Talv, 2 - Tiv Jul, 3 - kind permission of Lauku ceotjs

the Curonian Spit in the Kaliningrad region

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Only a few countries can offer beautiful dunes, among them are Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Denmark and the Kaliningrad region. The dunes of the Curonian Spit are rightly considered as pearl of the region which attracts tourists from different countries because the Russian part of the dunes is included in the national park and registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The sand dunes of the Kaliningrad region are a significant feature of the identity of the Baltic Sea Region. Furthermore, the dunes aare a very attractive destination for tourists of the Baltic Sea Region. Resolution No 423 of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR of 6 November 1987 set up the Curonian Spit National Park on the southern part of the Curonian Spit which belongs to the Zelenogradsk district of the Kaliningrad region according to administrative division.

It is one of the oldest national parks in the country Total area of the Curonian Spit National Park: 66.21 km Dune types: shifting and fixed Functional zones: National park: 7.83km Tourism zone: 3.88 km Recreational zone: 16.35 km ( including zone of services for visitors: 3.51 km) Specially protected zone: 38.15 km Settlements (Lesnoy, Rybachiy, Morskoe): Area of the settlements: 4.61 km Population: 1 558 Number of tourists: 1500 cars and 4000 visitors daily from May to November. The picturesque landscape of the Curonian Spit comprises high sand dunes, both open

and wooded. The contrasting colours of white and green dunes will leave a lasting impression on every visitor. The open sand dunes of the Curonian Spit of the Kaliningrad region are called the Great Dune Ridge. The Curonian Spit dunes can be divided into two types: fixed and mobile (so-called living or shifting dunes). Fixed dunes are represented by a single front-dune stretching along the coast of the Curonian Spit and coastal sand bars which are running parallel to the front-dune on the lee-side. Mobile dunes that are like giant barchans are situated on the coast of the Curonian Spit and consist of separate tracts. Currently about 70% of sand is fixed by shrubbery (i.e. overgrown dunes) and by grass (i.e. partly overgrown dunes) and only 30% of the dunes are lacking vegetation and represent mobile barchans.

Photo: National Park "Curonian Spit" (RUS)

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They usually have steep lee slopes and approach the coast. Mobile dunes alternate with overgrown fixed dunes, i.e. dunes covered with planted shrubbery. The Curonian Spit dunes are asymmetric with precipices towards the lagoon and relatively gentle slopes towards the sea. Mobile dunes are currently moving towards the lagoon. It is possible to determine the age of a dune by its colour. New dunes, in contrast to old ones, consist of light silica sand. That is why they are called white dunes. Old dunes are called black or brown due to their dark colour. They are preserved near the town Nida. The Great Dune Ridge was formed 150 200 years ago on the site of former parabolic dunes that were irretrievably lost due to the destruction of ancient forests, deeply buried under a thick layer of sand. Western windward slopes of white dunes

are long and flat while eastern leeward slopes are short and steep towards a plain called palve or towards the Curonian Lagoon. The tops of the dunes are broad, sometimes flattened. Their surface is covered with small and large aeolian forms like ripple marks or wind-blown mounds. Mobile dunes occupy less than half the length of the Dune Ridge. Perpetual motion is their normal state. Driven by west winds they are moving towards the Curonian Lagoon. Thus, the size and the height of the dunes are constantly shrinking. It is hard to believe that the high dunes of the Curonian Spit as well as the whole landscape have been created by humans. During the time of crusaders the Curonian Spit was an important road connecting Prussia, the Baltic States and the Russian Empire. For five centuries this road was used by the army. It was used for the transportation of goods; carriages, stagecoaches and

horsemen used this road. Even, the Russian Emperor Peter I and the Prussian Queen Louise took this road on their journeys. In the 14th century, the first settlements appeared near the road and postal stations opened. When people cut down the forests nothing prevented the free movement of sand, which began to cover roads, houses and even entire villages. Sand, not fixed by vegetation, was a disaster for locals. People had to leave their homes and seek new places to live, where sand and wind could not reach them. The sand approached so quickly that even the doors of the houses had to be built in two parts so that a person could get out of the house through the upper part of the door. Only when sand began to cover the road and the Curonian Lagoon shallowed, the government decided to step in to save the unique Curonian Spit by elaborating a conservation project for the duration

Photo: National Park "Curonian Spit" (RUS)

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View from Ephas Height to Morskoye

of nearly 200 years. In terms of measures taken, labour and expenditures this project is unique in the history of mankind. In the 18th century, a special contest for the best idea to save the road and people from mobile dunes was announced. The project of Johann Titius, a professor from Wittenberg, won. He proposed to divide the peninsula into two zones - protected green and living areas. The green zone was to consist of a bank along the Baltic Sea. In order to stop dunes from moving, Titius proposed to plant various kinds of vegetation so that it would create a stepped barrier against west wind blowing from the sea. A narrow strip of lowland near the dune was to become the living area. The first work to set the bank up started in 1803. Separate dunes from the side of the sea were united with wicker fences. The wind began to blow sand into hollow spaces, and eventually a wall, the front-dune, stret-

ching along the Curonian Spit appeared. A large part of the Great Dune Ridge does not move. It is covered with grass and forest. First, the sand-filled cavities and slopes are stabilised temporarily. Afterwards, sand traps (fascines) are made of branches. When they fill up with sand, beach grass is planted. It prevents sand from moving and therefore hinders sand drifts. A dense network of roots prevents sand from vanishing and contributes to the accumulation and formation of soil. Subsequently trees and shrubs are planted where it is necessary. ePhas height The most beautiful and enchanting place for tourists of the Russian part of the Curonian Spit is the route Ephas Height. The route runs along the south-western slope of Orekhovaya dune (Petsh). It was wooded in the late 19th century under the direction of the forester Franz Epha. From the observation deck tourists enjoy a

wonderful view to the mobile dune Staroderevenskaya (Altdorferberg) in the South. The Great Dune Ridge, which can be viewed from the observation deck, its a symbol of the Curonian Spit. Its width ranges from 100 to 800 m. The dune stretches 16 km from the south-west to the north-east, from low white dunes on the Curonian Spit to the Lithuanian border and further along the coast of the Curonian Lagoon. Its average height is 30-40 m with a maximum height of 67 m (Ventsekrugas a forested dune on the Lithuanian side of the Spit). muller's height The area near Rybachiy is the most ancient part of the Curonian Spit. Here, the frontdune divides into separate dunes. The highest and the most beautiful dune is Bolotnaya dune near lake Chaika. The route (1.5 km long) will take wanderers along the slope of Bolotnaya dune. It is hard to imagine that the dune, which is stable and fixed

Photo: Christoph Schmidt

MOSCOW

ruSSia

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On the Curonian Spit

today, was swiftly moving towards the settlement Rossitten (Rybachiy) in the 19th century. Fortunately, the movement of the dune was stopped. There is evidence from the age-old pines and spruces at its foot and the mountain pines planted on both sides of the clearing, leading to the highest peak of Bolotnaya dune Mullers Height. The height is named after Konigsbergs Chief Forester who got 5 years of public funding for the expensive tree-planting activities. On the final point of the route near the observation deck there is a granite with the phrase Mullers Height and the date of the final planting. The observation deck offers stunning views over the Baltic Sea, the Curonian Lagoon as well as amazing views of the Swan Lake and the Rybachiy settlement.Not only open dunes have brought world fame to the Curonian Spit for more than a century, but also migratory birds. Nestland is the old name of the spit which dates back

to 1258. Every spring and autumn from 10 million to 20 million birds fly over the spit. Most of them stop here to rest and feed. In 1901, Johann Tinnemann founded the world's first ringing station in the settlement Rossitten on the Curonian Spit. His work was continued by Russian scientists from the Zoological Institute of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Today, twothirds of all the birds, which are ringed in Russia, have bird passports of the station "Fringilla" on the Curonian Spit. The biggest traps in the world are used for this purpose. Scientists working at the station from early spring to late autumn, will gladly tell you about their work and even show you how to catch, ring and then release the birds. It is possible to speak endlessly about the enchanting beauty of the sand dunes of the Curonian Spit, but it is better to see it with your own eyes. By Anna Belova

contact
Visitor Centre of the National Park Curonian Spit of the Kaliningrad Region Lesnoye Museum Tel. + 7 40150 4-51-19

Kaliningrad Region Tourism Information Centre . , . , 28 Tel. +7 4012 555-200 info@visit-kaliningrad.ru www.visit-kaliningrad.ru

Photo: Christoph Schmidt

the curonian Spit in lithuania at a glance

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The Gliders Dune

The cognitive path to the grey dunes

Kuri nerija, the Curonian Spit, is a narrow strip of sand stretching 97 kilometres (180 km2) along the western coast of the Baltic Sea in Lithuania and Kaliningrad (Russia). The Lithuanian side, which is 50 kilometres long, is divided into two parts Klaipda city municipalityand Neringa municipality. According to the legend, the spit was formed a long time ago by Neringa, a girl giant who poured the sandy peninsula into the Baltic Sea to protect the peaceful bay from the stormy sea and to create an embankment for fishermen to live. Today the Curonian Lagoon washes the eastern shore of the Curonian Spit, while the Baltic Sea washes the western shore. With its still drifting sand dunes, seaside forests consisting of hundred-yearold pine trees, dunes covered by mountain pines planted by hand, white sand beaches and old fishermen villages, the Curonian Spit is truly unique! The annual number of visitors is approximately 400,000.

cultural and natural heritage of international significance In 2000, the Curonian Spit was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a cultural landscape with significant natural and cultural heritage value. The Curonian Spit is part of Natura 2000, a network of protected territories in Europe connecting its most valuable natural habitats. It also belongs to HELCOM, which seeks to protect the marine environment of the Baltic Sea through intergovernmental cooperation. natural Value The dunes are an outstanding element of the Curonian Spit landscape. Here visitors can explore all stages of dune formation. There are embryonic shifting dunes, humid dune slacks, decalcified fixed dunes and wooded dunes, white and grey dunes, which are famous for their exceptional beauty.

In order to preserve the valuable landscape complex, the Curonian Spit National Park was established in 1991. The area of the park comprises 26,464 hectares: 9,764 ha are covered by land and 16,700 ha by water. The park includes two nature reserves: Grobtas Reserve near the Russian border (northern slope of the Gliders Dune) and Nagliai Reserve (Dead or Grey dunes between Juodkrant and Pervalka). Furthermore, there are four landscape reserves: Parnidis, Karvaiiai, Juodkrant and Lapnugaris. sand dunes in the curonian sPit Your journey through the Curonian Spit and its dunes starts in Smiltyn (Klaipda). Here, visitors will be able to admire the diversity of the forests. The most common sight is the dwarf mountain overgrown with pines. However, it is very susceptible to fires. Visitors must be very careful with open fire in these forests. The scorched

Photos: 1 - The Curonian Spit National Park Administration, 2 - Nida Culture and Tourism Information Centre

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Parnidis Dune

area, caused by the fire of 4 May 2006, is a very touching lesson. Further towards Nida, there are pine plantings at Bear Head, Bear Ravine or Hagenas Dune. the great dune ridge The Great Dune Ridge is the largest relief formation on the Curonian Spit, stretching along its eastern side from the north to the south. Most of the Great Ridge is covered with trees. It is the most beautiful forest on the Curonian Spit. One of the oldest and most wonderful parabolic dunes in Neringa (Juodkrant settlement) is the Hill of Witches. The slopes of the hill are covered with centuries-old pine trees. Through the shady woods, the path rises to 42 m. From the Grey (Dead) Dunes visitors can enjoy the most beautiful panorama of the Spit. It is the area of the Nagliai Nature Strict Reserve with an area of 1,680 ha.

It stretches 8 km from the north to the south with an average width of 2 km. The highest dunes are Vingkop (51 m) and Nagliai (53 m). Along the entire length of the dunes there are ravines of the most intricate patterns blown by the wind and sand hills covered with grass. This reserve is a sanctuary for a number of species, which are included in the Red List. The white-tailed eagle is a frequent visitor there, too. In the south of Preila settlement is the highest dune (67.2 m) of the Curonian Spit Park called Vecekrugas Dune or the Old Inn Hill. The name of the dune originates from the Curonian vece (= old) and kruogs (= inn), reminiscent of the inn that used to be at the foot of the dune. The entire dune is covered with dwarf mountain pines (Pinus mugo Turra).

Parnidis landscaPe reserVe This reserve is a buffer zone of the Grobtas Strict Nature Reserve towards the Nida settlement. It features landscapes of great aesthetic value. Particularly interesting is the dune ridge, which is covered with mountain pine on the northern end and moving sand in the south. This is the only place in the national park where drifting dunes remain active. Drifting dunes are very sensitive to any disturbance by visitors. An observation point was set up on the top of Parnidis Dune. It is one of the most popular tourist sites in Nida and offers a spectacular view of the Curonian Lagoon and the Baltic Sea. In 1995, architect R. Kristapaviius, sculptor K. Pudymas and astronomer R. Klimka built a solar clock there. This place was chosen not by chance the Curonian Spit is the only place in Lithuania where the sun rises and sets in the water. On the left half of the clock,

Photo: The Curonian Spit National Park Administration

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The Hill of witches

Moviemaking in the sand dunes

one can see signs and symbols of calendar celebrations, which were copied from the ancient wooden runes calendar. At Urbas Hill, one of the first dunes forested by local inhabitants, planting of trees and shrubs has been carried out since 1874. At the same time, upon the initiative of Koenigsbergs authorities, the construction of Nidas lighthouse began. The present lighthouse is a 29.3 m high reinforced concrete tower. traditional festiVals in neringa Nowadays, a variety of different kinds of cultural events, plein-airs, exhibitions and sport events takes place on the Curonian Spit. An international folk festival, called Tek saulu ant marai in Lithuanian language, takes place once a year since 1999. Concerts by guests from different Lithua-

nian regions and other countries, get-togethers and marches, craft fairs, where you can purchase original and authentic wares, presentations of culinary heritage, educational workshops for the dispersion of folk traditions, dance and song teachings all of this has become an integral part of Neringa's cultural life. Each year the festival has its own theme based on different traditions. Because this festival takes place at the end of June, the tradition of St Johns day has become a very important part of the festival and is celebrated mostly either in Nida, with sand dunes in the background, or on the dunes. There is nothing more beautiful and more impressive than traditional clothing, songs and dances of the locals together with the boundless background of sand dunes. In the summer of 2011, the folklore ensemble Giedruze of Nidas Cultural and Tourism Information Centre Agila starred

in a film presenting the regions traditions, dances and songs. Many parts of the film were produced in the sand dunes or nearby. The film was made to present Neringas region and its culture to a national and international audience. The dunes of the Curonian Spit can also be seen in a few other Lithuanian movies: A woman and her four men, Elze of Gilija and others.
Author of the article: Klaudija Kionies Article based on The Curonian Spit National Park Administration and Neringa Culture and Tourism Centre Agila information. Photos by: The Curonian Spit National Park Administration, Neringa Culture and Tourism Centre Agila

Photos: Nida Culture and Tourism Information Centre

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Urbas Hill

contact
Nida Cultural Tourism Information Centre Agila Taikos str. 4 LT -93121, Neringa, Nida Tel. + 370 469 52 345, Mobile + 370 682 19 473 info@visitneringa.lt www.visitneringa.com

Tel. + 370 469 53 490 Mobile + 370 618 62 447 juodkrante@neringa.lt www.visitneringa.com

Curonian Spit National Park Visitor Centre in Nida Nagli str.8 LT-93123 Neringa, Nida Tel. + 370 469 51256,

Curonian Spit National Park Visitor Centre in Smiltyne (n the summer season only) Smiltyns str.11 LT-93100 Klaipeda Tel. + 370 46 402 256,

infonida@nerija.lt www.nerija.lt

Tourism Information Centre In Juodkrant L. Rzos str. 8 LT-93101, Juodkrant, Neringa

info@nerija.lt www.nerija.lt

Photo: Nida Culture and Tourism Information Centre

touristic information
More travel information about the countries participating in AGORA 2.0:

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Belarus
Visit Belarus www.belarus.by/en/travel

Finland
The Official Travel Site of Finland www.visitfinland.com Visit Helsinki www.visithelsinki.fi

Denmark
Visit Denmark www.visitdenmark.com Visit Copenhagen www.visitcopenhagen.com

Germany
German National Tourist Board www.germany.travel Official Tourism Portal for Visitors to the German Capital www.visitberlin.com Tourist Board MecklenburgWest Pomerania Tourismusverband Mecklenburg-Vorpommern www.auf-nach-mv.de Tourism Marketing Brandenburg Tourismus Marketing Brandenburg (in German) www.reiseland-brandenburg.de Tourism Agency Schleswig-Holstein Tourismus-Agentur Schleswig-Holstein www.sh-tourismus.de

Estonia
Visit Estonia www.visitestonia.com The Official Website of the Tallinn City Tourist Office www.tourism.tallinn.ee Visit Tartu www.visittartu.com

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Latvia
Official Latvian Tourism Portal www.latvia.travel Visit Riga www.liveriga.com Latvian Rural Tourism Association www.countryholidays.lv

Russia / Kaliningrad Region


Regional Tourism Information Center Kaliningrad www.visit-kaliningrad.ru

Sweden
Sweden's Official Website for Tourism and Travel Information www.visitsweden.com

Lithuania
Visit Lithuania www.visitlithuania.net Visit Vilnius www.vilnius-tourism.lt Stockholms Official Visitors Guide www.visitstockholm.com

Poland
Polands Official Travel Website www.poland.travel Official Tourist Website of Warsaw www.warsawtour.pl

imprint
ISSN 2194 - 8232 All rights reserved 2012 University of Greifswald

SERIES EDITOR Dipl. oec. Betina Meliss Tel. +49 3834 / 864541 agora@uni-greifswald.de ISSUE EDITOR Christoph Schmidt agora@uni-greifswald.de PRODUCED IN THE FRAMEWORK OF THE PROJECT AGORA 2.0 Project leader: Prof. Dr. Wilhelm Steingrube Tel. +49 3834 / 864540 baltic21@uni-greifswald.de Project coordinator: Betina Meliss University of Greifswald Institute of Geography and Geology Makarenkostrase 22 17487 Greifswald COVER PICTURE Curonian Spit (Photo by kind permission of the Nida Culture and Tourism Information Centre) ENVELOPE PICTURES 1,2,5 - Freddie Bijkerk, 3,6 - Betina Meliss, 4 - Lauku ceotjs, 7 - Tomasz Awdziejczyk ARTWORK GRAF FISCH DESIGN, Greifswald PRINTING Hoffmann-Druck GmbH, Wolgast

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