Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Topic No:4 Topic Name: Pressing Inspection Submitted by: Name: Aas Saminaz Faizanur Chowdhury. Roll No: 3137. Session: 2006-2007.
Questions: 1.Definition of Pressing, Inspection & Pressing Inspection. 2.State the objects of Pressing Inspection. 3. Point out the categories of Pressing Inspection. 4.Point out the necessary equimpment of pressing. 5.Which matters are must be inspected during pressing? 6.How much time Pressing Inspection have been done? 7.How did Pressing Inspection is evaluated? 8. Pressing & Ironing Equipments 9.History of iron. 10.Defference between Pressing& Ironing.
Inspection: The Inspection is done to control the quality by means of visual examination of Pressing Inspection the products without any instruments. Pressing Inspection: The Inspection process , which identifying the faults or defects of pressing according to buyers check list is called Pressing Inspection.
2.State the objects of Pressing Inspection. Objects of Pressing Inspection: a.Removal of unwanted creases & wrinkles according to buyer order. b. To apply creases where necessary according to buyers check list. c. Shapping variation area if any. d. Proper drying of garments after pressing. e.Wrinkles area & rough surface of pocket if any. f. Fused area or fused stain if any. g.Shade variation are if any. h. Stretched garments area during pressing if any.
1. Point out the categories of Pressing Inspection: Categories of Pressing Inspection: a. No Pressing Inspection. b. Minimum Pressing Inspection. c. Under Pressing Inspection. d. Final Pressing Inspection. e. Permanent Pressing Inspection.
4. Point out the necessary equipment of pressing. Necessary Equipments of pressing: 1. Iron 2. Steam press 3. Steam air finish 4. Steam tunnel.
5. Which matters are must be inspected during pressing? The following are the matters must be inspected during pressing: Inspected for fused area or fused stain if any. Inspected for water spot if any. Inspected for shade variation area if any. Inspected for broken chain & button if any. Inspected for correct folding of garments. Inspected for stretched garments area during pressing if any. Inspected for proper drying of garments after pressing,
Inspected for wrinkles area & rough surface of pocket if any. Inspected for unexpected crease in lining. Inspected for proper shape. This is also informed that, the temperature, Pressure of pressing head & time during pressing must be inspected.
6.How much time pressing inspection have been done? Generally pressing inspection have been done In two times. They are1. Before pressing inspection. & 2. After pressing inspection.
In fact , before & after pressing the shape of garments are increase or decrease it will be informed by pressing inspection. 7.How did pressing inspection is evaluated?
Pressing Inspection is done to evaluate Correctness of shape of neck/soulder/sleeve/side seam/Bottom hem in Uppers; and shape of waist/hip/side seam/in seam/leg opening in bottoms. No shiny marks/crease marks on seams. No colour fading. No dust marks/stain marks/oil marks. Pressing as required.
ShareEmail
<>
Tags:
Machines
Fabric Cutting Fusing & Heat Transfer Inspection Laser Cutting/Engraving Equipment Laundry Medical Waste Management Systems Needle Detection Oil Purifiers Ozone Generators Pressing & Ironing Sewing
Embroidery Machines
Embroidery Production
Inspection Machines
L E D Lighting Concept
Laundry Machines
Medical Waste??
Oil Purifiers
ORGAN Needles
Ozone Generators
Sequin Manufacturing
Servo Motors
Sewing Machines
9.History of Iron
The Conlon The ABC Ironer The ABC Ironer and the Atomic Bomb The Gladiron (Free Manual Available) The Simplex The General Electric Ironer The Universal Ironer The Speed Queen Ironer The Kenmore Ironer Theory and History of Ironing [Separate Page] o Why Are We Doing This? o Early Ironing o Critical Dimensions of Ironing o Mrs. Potts and the Sad Iron o The American Beauty Iron o The Pyrex Silver Streak Iron o The Pettipoint Winged Iron o The Iron Handle o The Thermostat o The Winstead-Singer Durabilt Travel Iron o Steam Irons o The Future o Underwriters Laboratory Standards for Irons o Starch - the Old Fashioned Way o Etymology of the Dreaded "M" Word o Replacement Cords for Appliances The Ironrite Ironer [Separate Page] o Introducing The Ironrite o The Ironrite Health Chair o Oiling the Machine and All About that Special Ironrite Oil... o Electrical Problems o All About Motors o Changing the Roll or Muslin on the Ironrite o Ironrite Promotional Trinkets o Ironrite Manuals Available for Free o Help Us Find Louise! o Ironrite Movies That You Can Watch o The Built-In Ironrite
o o o o o o o o o
The conlon Company seems to have advertised quite a bit as these ads show. Of note is the 1931 ad from Spokane that shows an ironer very similar to Patent No. 1,652,561. Other ads follow the general theme of "saves time" and "Easy to Use". The Ironer priced at $139.00 (in 1931) was very expensive, especially in the Depression. Adjusting for inflation, this sum is equivalent to about $3,200 in 2009 dollars.
I know very little of this company and I am thrilled that one of our readers sent these photos to us. If any of our other viewers know more about this company, please Contact Me.
Here are some more Conlon pictures sent in to us by our friend Bob in Oxnard, California. He writes:
"... What a surprise to find your web site. I was searching for a Conlon Ironer corporation web site to obtain if possible a Conlon Ironer Manual. I did not find it but I found your web site and imagine my surprise when you had a photo of exactly my Conlon Ironer. I am attaching a photo of my Conlon Ironer. For what it's worth. My wife died about 2 years ago and last week I pulled our old Conlon Ironer out of storage in my garage. I cleaned it up and plugged it in and to my amazement it worked. We bought our Conlon Ironer in the late 1950's in Topeka, Kansas. My wife really loved it and would never think of getting rid of it even though she had not used it in years. As you indicated, everything was ironed back then. My wife, Betty, always ironed a white shirt each day for me to go to work. (I was an engineer in an office.) She was the greatest of wives. We were married for just over 50 years. Now I think that I will use it to iron some of my good trousers and a sheet and pillowcase or two just for old times sake. I live in Oxnard, California and would like to locate a manual for the Conlon Ironer since I cannot find ours even if it is still around someplace. If you know anyone who has one or an idea where I can get one, please let me know. I loved your web site. The music of the '40's and '50's were the best ever and has never been equaled. Long live 'Your Hit Parade'..."
We got a note from a reader who actually found a Brand New Conlon Ironer -- it had been given to a relative as a present and was never used!
The ABC Ironer LEFT:List of ABC Patents RIGHT: Henry Altorfer's Design Patent (D 110,992) for the ABC Ironer Exterior Click to enlarge
If you would like to see more photos of day-to-day life of real people who worked on the Manhattan Project, check out the website of the Manhattan Project Heritage Preservation Association.
Thor product was a pneumatic hammer to pound rivets and drill holes for bolts used to fasten the fire box of a locomotive to its boiler. Railroads soon became the major customers of Thor pneumatic products.
Thor Motorcycle
Click to Enlarge
In time, Thor acquired the Aurora Automatic Machinery Company, a manufacturer of parts for bicycles and motorcycles, including the Sears and Indian motorcycles. Eventuallly, Thor sold its own brand of motorcycle from the early 1900's until 1918. Notably, Thor introduced the first sidecar. For a brief time, the company also manufactured a Thor automobile. None of this, however, has anything to do with washers and ironers. In a parallel universe, Hurley's two younger brothers, Neil and Edward formed an independent company that manufactured washing machines. Through the intercesssion of their older brother, they received permission to use the Thor logo and name on its new venture. However, there was never any corporate or financial relationship between the washing machine company and the power tool company. Shortly after introducing the electric washing machine, the Hurley brothers introduced the Thor rotary iron, usually known as the "Gladiron" Note that this is a clever play on Mrs. Potts' "Sadiron", on our Ironing History Page that required stove top heating by the user.
Several variations of the "Gladiron" were introduced. One model would serve as an actual attachment to the washing machine. Simply take off the wringer and attach the gladiron and the lady of the house or her domestic servant could do their ironing above the machine. The other model was a stand-alone version. Both the washing machine and gladiron were big hits in households throughout the country and the world. The Arcade Toy Company made tiny replicas of both machines for little girl doll houses.
Eventually, the Hurley Company made a lightweight collapsable machine as shown in these photos sent to us by our friend Gayle in Frankfort, Kentucky. This machine was targeted at folks suffering from the postwar
housing crunch where new couples were often squeezed into very small spaces. On this machine, the shoe moves onto the roller, so it is more like the Conlon than the Iron-Rite. This is what the Gladiron looked like when it came out of the box!
Contemporary ads seem to mirror the general cultural theme of the 1940s that a woman could win increased affection from her spouse by performing household chores well.
Click to Enlarge
The Gladiron appears to have been the creation of Arthur H. Gerhardt, Arthur P. Schulz, and Hugh M. Rumbaugh, dating back to 1940. Mr. Gerhardt seems to have done the principal design work, particularly the exterior while Messrs. Schulz and Rumbaugh were involved with the mechanicals. The principal patents for the Gladiron are:
If you are restoring a Gladiron, your best bet is Reissue Patent RE22720 -it has 12 very detailed drawings of the machine's inner workings. You may obtain this by following the proceedures outlined on our Patent Drawings page. Here are some samples:
Thanks to Rita, one of our readers, we have a manual for the Gladiron. It is a ".pdf" that is about 6.6 MB; please contact us if you want a free copy of the Gladiron Manual. Patent RE22,720 has 24 pages -- and that can be a hassle to download. contact us if you want a 3.8MB zip file containing images of all 24 pages.
There are 12 pages of drawings and 12 pages of explanatory text. As usual, we are always interested in stories, pictures and data which would help us understand this marque of Ironer
Targeted at the Man of the House, telling him what She wants Click to Enlarge
Beginning in 1905, he Simplex Ironer was made by the Peter Brothers Manufacturing Company. The organization specialized in producing laundry ironers. The Company employed 200 people and produced 2,500 ironers per month. In 1920 Peter Brothers Manufacturing changed their name to American Ironing Machine Company.
From 1905 to 1929, the company engaged in massive advertising, buying full-page ads in upscale publications, such as The Literary Digest,The Saturday Evening Post and The Country Gentleman.
As the 1920s progressed, "Status" or "Pride of Possession" also entered the advertisng copy. Thanks to our friend and reader Don H. of Palm Desert, California, we have a complete Simpex operator's manual for this very early model. Write Us and we'll be glad to send you a ".pdf" of the manual for FREE.
Here are photos of a "Modern" Simplex. They were sent by our friend Sharon from West Virginia!
"Modern" Simplex Ironer Click to Enlarge Thanks to our friend Barry A., we now have quite a bit of documentation for the late-model Simplex. It is about 4 MB, (Contact me if you want any of this material. This is what it looks like:
If you take a close look at the "Parts List" cover above, you'll note that Simplex had been taken over by McGraw-Edison, the manufacturers of the Speed Queen line of appliances. We siscuss this latter brand next.
WORKS ABSOLUTELY PERFECT AND HAS NEVER BEEN USED!!!...IT HAS AN ORIGINAL GENERAL MOTORS PACKARD MOTOR THAT RUNS SILENT AND LIKE NEW AS WELL .....THIS MANGLE IS ALL ORIGINAL!!!.....I PURCHASED THIS ITEM FOR $1.00 AT THE LOCAL GOODWILL..."
If you are seeking to restore a Speed Queen ironer )or just learn how to operate one), you would probably benefit from some of the material on the modern Simplex (above), since they were made by the same company.
The GE Ironer
General Electric made its entry into the home ironer business with a flat plate device. From a manufacturing point of view, this is a lot simpler and cheaper because it does not have the gears, pulleys and wires that run the roll mechanism. All you do is place the object on the hot plate and close the lid on top of it. This technique is limited to pieces that are small.
In the 1930s, General Electric gave up the flat-plate ironer and made a roller version that competed with the Ironrite.
Here is an ad for the General Electric Ironer that was displayed on NYC Subway trains in the 1930s and 1940s.
Sears continued to sell Kenmore Ironers well into the 1950s. We were privileged to get this note from Pam, one of our readers:
"... I have a 1952 Kenmore Ironer with the manuals. My Grandfather bought it for my Grandmother in the 1950s. She used it to iron his suits because he was a door to door insurance salesman..."
Pam also has promised to scan the manual and the parts list. Check back with the site to see when I have received them.
Topic - 04
PRESSING INSPECTION
PRESSING
Garment Pressing Operation is to remove wrinkles from a garment and to give it shape . Pressing is done after assembly to improve the appearance of a garment. In other cases, especially with knits, garments are simply folded instead of pressed. Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated processes exist that apply force and steam to garments placed over a body form.
Some Technique About Garments Pressing: 1. Press garments flat, never folded with the sleeves under it as this leaves sleeve impression marks at the garment. 2. Do not iron (press) a placket, only steam this 3. Do not place iron direct onto the collar, only use lightly steam. 4. Garment must no be over-pressed and glazing-shining effects must not be evident.
4 . P r e s s i n g mi t t 5 . P r e s s c l o t h
Purpose of Pressing:
To smooth away unwanted creases and crush marks To make creases where the design of the garment requires them To mould the garment to the contour of the body To prepare garment for further sewing To refinish the fabric after manufacturing the garment
Categories of Pressing:
Garments which require no pressing Garments requiring minimal pressing or finishing Garments using the use of an iron in under pressing and final pressing Garments requiring extensive under pressing and final pressing Garments requiring plating or permanent press finishing
Pressing Inspection:
Which things should be inspected ?
1. Pressing tables should be marked with length and breadth of all sizes of garments according to Buyers specifications. Pressing Inspection is done to evaluate. 2. Correctness of shape of Neck/Shoulder/Sleeve/ Side Seam/ bottom hem in uppers; and shape of-waist/ Hip/ Side Seam/ inseam/ leg opening in bottoms. 3. No shiny marks /crease marks on seams. 4. No Excessive moisture by steam. 5. No Color fading. 6. No Dust marks/Stain marks/oil marks. 7. Pressing as required.
PRESSING OR FINISHING : The object of pressing or finishing is to make the apparel looks beautiful. Some points should be included in terms of finishing :
1.Have any spot or burn spot in the fabric ? 2.Water spot. 3.Shading difference. 4.Braking of button or chain. 5.Have any fold or fold in the exact position ?
6.Have any stretch in fabric during pressing ? 7.Exact position of pocket. 8.The shape of the garments. 9.During pressing temperature, pressure and pressing cycle should be inspected
Final - Pressing
Some pressing, termed 'under pressing', may be done in the course of assembling a garment, for example, pressing seams open or ironing a collar. Most pressing is done after assembly to improve the appearance of a garment. In other cases, especially with knits, garments are simply folded instead of pressed. Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated process exists that apply force and steam to garments placed over a body form.
Final - Finishing
'Finishing' is the addition of special detailing such as pleats, embroidery and screen printing to a garment. This includes hand stitching (unseen handwork done inside collars and lapels to give them shape) and its automated substitutes. This may also include adding buttons, hooks, eyes, or trims, as well as clipping loose threads. All finishing of moderate- and lower-priced garments is done by machine. Increasingly, retailers request that manufacturers supply them with 'hanger ready' garments; in other words, the garments must be pre-ticketed with bar-coded price tags attached and hung on the hangers the retailers will use. Previously, retailers were responsible for ticketing, but retailers have shifted this burden to manufacturers. A contractor or a distribution warehouse routinely handles the ticketing. All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The final inspection is
carved out by buyer representative or independent auditors free from any pressure from vendor or factory representative. The final inspection is to visually inspect articles at random from fully or 8090% packed purchase order to verify their general conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or reference tagged sample received from buyer. Result is documented and recorded as reference but still vendor/manufacturer is always responsible for claims if any arising due to any defective goods found packed and inspected at buyers warehouse.
pressing as the garment is made, a final pressing job should be done once the garment is complete, and then hung up and not touched for at least a day.
MEANS OF PRESSING
One of the real secrets to good costume construction is proper pressing. Pressing must be done as the construction progresses, it cannot be left to the last, as no amount of final pressing will make up for step by step pressing. Careful, thorough pressing during each construction process will result in professional looking garments that require only a minor touch up when completed.
Press with the grain of the fabric whenever possible and be careful to not stretch edges or curves by pulling the fabric. 6. Press all seams open first, then press in the stated direction for proper garment construction. 7. Press all seams and construction details on the wrong side first, then press the right side of the garment. Test the fabric to see that the right side can be pressed. 8. Use the point of the iron to open seams before reaching them with the bulk of the iron. 9. Always press seams and darts BEFORE they are attached to other garment seams, this helps reduce bulk. 10. Never press any sharp creases (except pleats) in the garment before the final fitting is done. 11. Above all, know your fabric and do not OVERPRESS.
5.
PRESSING TECHNIQUES:
1. Finger pressing is using the heat of the body to press or crease small areas of fabric. Finger pressing often works wonders on stubborn seams before you press with the iron. 2. Favoring is when you roll one garment edge over another just slightly to conceal the seam. Favoring is used extensively in tailoring and can make any collar, waistband, etc. look much more professional. 3. Final Pressing is the last pressing procedure on a garment and should be a mere touch-up. The roll of collars and lapels need to be 'set' with a small amount of steam and heat. Most final pressing is done with the iron held just above the surface of the fabric. 4. Steaming is done for maintenance or during the construction process when the weight of the iron might mark the garment. Hold
the iron just above the fabric, not more than 1", and depress the steam button.
SE
WN
Pressing Tips :
Read these 9 Pressing Tips tips to make your life smarter, better, faster and wiser. Each tip is approved by our Editors and created by expert writers so great we call them Gurus. LifeTips is the place to go when you need to know about Sewing tips and hundreds of other topics. Become a Guru or Become an Advertiser.
SEAM IMPRINTS : To avoid seam imprints on the right side of the fabric, place a strip of
brown paper bag between the seam allowance and the garment before pressing.
RUB OUT SCORCH MARKS : If you scorch wool fabric by using an iron that is too hot, rub
a nickel on the scorch mark. The scorch mark will disappear. Be careful to use a clean nickel on light colored fabrics.
PRESS AS YOU GO : When sewing, never sew over an unpressed seam. Always press the
seams as you go. This will make sewing easier and will improve the quality and hang of your finished garment.
IRONING vs. PRESSING : Ironing is done by using a back and forth motion. Pressing is
done by using an up and down motion. Ironing can stretch the fabric out of shape and cause wrinkling and puckering on finished garments. Always press.
COOL IT :
To keep freshly pressed fabrics and garments from getting wrinkled, allow them to rest
and cool down on the ironing board for a couple of minutes before moving them. If you are in a hurry or just impatient, use a fan directed at the ironing board to cool down the fabric and set the press.
SETTING & REMOVING CREASES : A solution of one part water and one part distilled
white vinegar will remove an old crease and/or set a new one. Dampen a press cloth with this mixture and press with as hot of an iron as the fabric will allow. Press until the press cloth is dry. The vinegar smell will dissipate as the fabric dries.
CLEANING YOUR IRON : Irons get dirty and pick up color from the fabric dye. Clean your
iron periodically, especially if sewing and pressing light colored fabric. The best way to clean the soleplate of your iron is with a commercial hot iron cleaner, sold at fabric and sewing supply stores. This product is very easy to use.
SEAM ROLL : A seam roll can be used to press areas that are hard to lay on a flat surface, like a
sleeve. They also provide a curved surface for pressing seams without leaving imprints from the seam
allowance. If you do not have a seam roll, roll up a newspaper or magazine and cover with a terry towel or insert in a wool sock.
CLAPPER : Use a clapper to flatten seams after pressing. A clapper can reduce bulk and make
fabric lay flat. Steam press the seam or area. Press the clapper over the area to seal in the heat and moisture. After about a minute, the fabric or seam will lay perfectly flat.
Some Helpful Pressing Hints -PRESS AS YOU SEW! (I cant stress this enough) If you follow this rule, your
project or garment will turn out looking more professional and will only need brief freshen up ironing when it is done!
-ALWAYS test your ironing on a scrap piece of fabric to make sure your fabric is not
changed in any way by the ironing. If it is, adjust the heat setting. -If your garment requires darts, or pleats, or princess seams, sew them all and then press them all to save some time. Vertical darts are normally pressed toward the center. Larger darts and princess seam darts can be slit down the center and pressed open .
-Always press your hems BEFORE you sew them. -Press on the wrong or ugly side when ever possible.
-Use the tip of the iron for small snug places that are hard to reach. -Use a pressing cushion or tailors ham when possible to help flatten seam and curved edges better.
Pressing Seams
When a pattern direction says "press the seams open" this is what they mean.. Press on the WRONG side of the fabric, and press the seams open as shown in the photo. MOST seams on simple garments require this type of pressing.
When quilting, MOST seams are pressed toward the darker fabric as shown in the photo.
Always use a pressing cloth to protect your fabric when pressing on the right or pretty side of your fabric, garment, or quilt. Use a pressing cushion when pressing sleeves or rounded edges, and always press on a "test" scrap piece of fabric first.
Cleaning your iron - Pour an equal amount of vinegar and distilled water in your iron's reservoir. Turn the iron on and make it stream and spray until it is empty. This helps clear out the steam vents in your iron. If the vents are still clogged try using straight vinegar. Flush with water when done.
To clean the sole of your iron, wipe it down with a good cleaner like top job. If it is an oily base dirt on the sole try using a soft rag with ammonia, and then rinse well. Once the sole of your iron is clean you could iron pieces of wax paper to coat the bottom which helps make the iron go over fabric better. (this step is optional and a personal preference.) Caring for your iron - ONLY use distilled water in your iron. I was taught this 25 years ago in home-economics in school and it is still true today. Regular water from your sink has minerals that can clog and damage your iron. Clean your iron often. Wipe it down with a soft rag and keep it clean, especially if you use starch or things like "wonder under", or interfacing. Always unplug your iron when not in use. Do NOT immerse your iron in water. If the cord is damaged, throw away your iron and get a new one. Keep iron away from children.
Ironing a shirt
Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. done to a temperature of 180220 Celsius, depending on the fabric.
[2]
[1]
bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material. While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the intermolecular bonds. Many modern fabrics (developed in or after the mid-twentieth century) are advertised as needing little or no ironing. Permanent press clothing was developed to reduce the ironing necessary by combining wrinkle-resistant polyester withcotton. The first known use of heated metal to "iron" clothes is known to have occurred in China.
[4] [3]
The electric
iron was invented in 1882, by Henry W. Seeley. Seeley patented his "electric flatiron" on June 6, 1882 (U.S. Patent no. 259,054).
Contents
[hide]
1 Equipment
o o o o
1.1 Iron 1.2 Ironing board 1.3 Tailor's ham 1.4 Commercial equipment
Equipment
[editIron Main article: Clothes iron
The iron is the small appliance used to remove wrinkles from fabric. It is also known as a clothes iron, flat iron, or smoothing iron. The piece at the bottom is called a sole plate. Ironing uses heat energy, chemical energy, electrical energy, and mechanical energy.
Ironing board
Ironing board
Most ironing is done on an ironing board, a small, portable, foldable table with a heat resistant surface. Some commercial-grade ironing boards incorporate a heating element and a pedal-operated vacuum to pull air through the board and dry the garment. On 16 February 1858 W. Vandenburg and J. Harvey patented an ironing table that facilitated pressing sleeves and pant legs.
[5]
A truly portable folding ironing board was first patented in Canada in 1875 by John B. Porter. The
[6]
United States for improvements to the ironing board, allowing for better quality ironing for shirt sleeves.
[edit]Tailor's
ham
[8]
A tailor's ham or dressmakers ham is a tightly stuffed pillow in the shape of a ham used as a mold when pressing curves such as sleeves or collars.
[edit]Commercial
equipment
Commercial dry cleaning and full-service laundry providers usually use a large appliance called a steam press to do most of the work of ironing clothes. Alternatively, a rotary iron may be used.
A tailor's stove
Historically, larger tailors' shops included a tailor's stove, a stove used by tailors to quickly and efficiently heat multiple irons. In many developing countries a cluster of solid irons, heated alternatively from a single heating source, are used for pressing cloths at small commercial outlets. [edit]Recommended
ironing temperatures
Textile
Temperature
[citation needed]
Temperature
[2]
Dot mark
Toile
240 C
220250 C
Cotton
204 C / 400 F
180220 C
***
[9]
Linen (flax)
215240 C
***
[9]
Viscose/Rayon
190 C
150180 C
**
[9]
Wool
148 C / 300 F
160170 C
**
[10]
Polyester
148 C / 300 F
[9]
Silk
148 C / 300 F
140165 C
[10]
SympaTex
[9]
143 C
180 C
[10]
Acrylic
135 C
180 C
Lycra/spandex
135 C
Nylon-6
150 C
Nylon-66
180220 C
< 110 C
**
< 150 C
***
< 200 C
Another source suggests slightly higher temperatures, for example, 180-220 C for cotton [edit]Chemistry
[2]
When the fabric is heated, the molecules are more easily reoriented. In the case of cotton fibres, which are derivatives of cellulose, the hydroxyl groupsthat crosslink the cellulose polymer chains are reformed at high temperatures, and become somewhat "locked in place" upon cooling the item. Inpermanent
press pressed clothes, chemical agents such as dimethylol ethylene urea are added as crosslinking agents.
[edit]See
also
[edit]References
1. 2.
Industrial Chemistry, Wily-VCH, Weinheim, 2000.doi:10.1002/14356007.a10_451 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. ^ Oldandinteresting.com ^ Enchantedlearning.com ^ U.S. Patent 19,390 ^ Mario Theriault, Great Maritime Inventions 18331950, Goose Lane, 2001, p. 31 ^ Mary Bellis (2011). "Sarah Boone". Inventors. About.com. Retrieved 13 November 2011. ^ "Tailors ham and Seam Roll Free Pattern". Sewing Princess. Retrieved 2012-24-05. ^
a b c d e a b c
"Bra att veta vad man har p sig.. Ulla Popken". 100204 ullapopken.de
10. ^
"Lanidor, General care". 100204 eshop.lanidor.com Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Ironing
[edit]External
links
History of Ironing from oldandinteresting.com Theory and Technology of Ironing Charcoal and other antique irons from the White River Valley Museum Antique Irons from the Virtual Museum of Textile Arts
Pressing Tools
As soon as you begin to sew whether you make crafts, clothing, or quilting, you will need an iron and an ironing board.
Below is a list of pressing tools and their functions. If you are interested in sewing clothing, garments, or fashion & costume design you should take a look at them and make the pressing cushion. (free directions on making a pressing cushion is provided)
Iron - A regular ordinary iron with a lot of choices for temperature settings is good for general pressing. A steam iron is good for light weight fabrics. Ironing Board - Your ironing board should be well padded with a top cover that can be removed for washing or replacing. Pressing Cushion - This is a must for any one sewing clothing. It is useful for pressing armhole seams and curved joints. Pressing Clothes - It is best to have 2 pressing clothes. One for damp pressing which can be about 20". X 34" and a smaller one for dry pressing. You would use these so that the iron will not be directly on your fabric and possibly leave a mark.
Sleeve Board - This is basically a small ironing board that is padded and covered. It is used for small areas that need to be pressed like darts, shoulder seams, etc... Wooden Clapper - This is a thick smooth piece of wood about 12" long X 1"2" thick. It is used to "beat" the steam into wool fabrics. Dress Maker's Ham - This is used for pressing curved areas. It is hard and thick and produces nice results for pressing. Every dress maker should have one.
Puff Iron Puff Iron that looks like it has a silver egg on a pole. This egg heats up and makes it very easy to iron puffed sleeves! Needle Board Needle Board used when you press corduroy, velvet, or any pile fabric that might crush or show seam ridges.
Cut two oval pieces of fabric approximately 6" wide X 10 - 12" long, like shown in the photo. Calico fabric works best.
Pin the 2 oval pieces of fabric pretty sides together. Sew a 1/2 inch seam allowance around the oval pieces of fabric leaving an opening on one side for turning. Clip curves, and turn your cushion pretty sides out. Stuff your Pressing Cushion with sawdust or pieces of fabric. DO NOT use stuffing. You want the pressing cushion to be very firm so that when you put your sleeve in it, it can press the curves well. Hand sew your opening closed. Your pressing cushion is done!!! It will come to good use and you will see the difference in pressing your curved seams.
The pressing cushion can be used to shape tailored garments, pleats, gathers, and contoured areas. It works well on sleeves. It is a must for any seamstress.
5.You should never see shine marks, iron marks, or unwanted creases on a wellpressed garment.
moving back and forth. This is what you would normally see in movies and television shows back in the 1950s, a mother in a dress standing behind the ironing board ironing with a back and forth type of motion. Ironing is also what most of us do at home when we have wrinkles in our clothes after we buy them or after we wash them. Pressing is a lifting and setting motion. It is used to flatten an area that has been stitch, like seams, darts, pleats, and hems. This is what you would see if you were watching TV shows like Project RUNWAY. Most dress makers and fashion designers press as they sew. Pressing, is a light touch of the iron. Lay the iron on the seam, press gently, and then lift up the iron. Sometimes a sliding motion can be used, but a combination of the heat setting, steam, and a little bit of pressure will get the job done
PRESSING is done with an up and down motion, and done during construction. IRONING is done with a gliding motion and is done after the garment is finished.
In other words, press while you sew, and iron while you wear!
The three elements of pressing are heat, pressure, and moisture. Using the correct balance of each will lead to successful pressing. Knowing your fabric and what it requires will assist greatly in achieving the right balance and getting successful pressing results.
while pressing. This will help keep the "nap" on your project. When I work with napped fabric I make my self a 10"x10" pressing cloth from the scraps of my napped fabric. Silks - Silk fabric should always be pressed with a dry iron, do not use steam. Wool - Use plenty of steam when sewing with wool. Wool is easily shaped when using steam. You can also use a damp cloth to press over the wool. Linen - Most linen fabric today has a nice shine to it. You will want to press on the wrong side so that the "shine" does not go away. Blended Fabric - (fabrics with 2 or more different kinds of fibers) Always use the iron setting for the fiber which has the lowest temperature
Some important notes about FABRIC TYPES AND BEST HEAT SETTINGS
Cotton and linen fabric need more heat than wool, silk, or synthetic. Thick fabric can stand more heat than thin fabric, even if the content is the same. Pressing without a pressing cloth requires less heat than pressing with a pressing cloth. For heavy fabrics or thicker seams, more pressure will be necessary than for fine fabrics. You can apply pressure in several ways with an iron, clapper, fingers, etc. Moisture can be applied with a press cloth, a steam iron, or a sponge. Steaming is the easiest, but it is also the most unreliable, since it can leave water spots, depending on the fabric you are working with.
If you are working with fabric that will water spot, cover with a dry pressing cloth, then a damp pressing cloth.
STEAM PRESSING
Title Technology of steam press curing. Authors - Hsu, W. E. Editor - Hse, C. Y. Conference paper; Book chapter Adhesive technology and bonded tropical wood products. 1998 pp. 358-366 Conference Title Adhesive technology and bonded tropical wood products. ISBN - 957-02-3200-5 Record Number - 19990611627
Abstract
Steam pressing is a method of hot pressing, during wood composite manufacture, that includes the injection and exhaust of live steam during the press cycle. Injection can be achieved simply by connecting steam lines (usually at high pressure) to special steam platens that contain a series of channels and ports by which steam is directed into the mat. It is easier to inject steam into the mat than to exhaust steam for the mat, and therefore, it is preferable to use a vacuum-assisted exhaust to facilitate steam evacuation. Since 1947, more than a dozen patents have been issued worldwide in relation to steam-pressing methods. Basically, they can be categorized as sealed, unsealed, and self-sealing systems. Self sealing is achieved by a peripheral compression frame on the press platen that over compresses and densifies the mat edges. In general, sealed systems are impractical and have a risk of explosion, but they are suitable for curing high-temperature-setting resins and have a great stabilization effect on the product. Unsealed systems have no risk of explosion and are able to cure moderate-temperature-setting resins rapidly. However, they have little stabilizing effect on the product and do not easily accommodate changes in board thickness and density. The self sealing system overcomes the drawbacks of the sealed system and still has the advantages of the sealed systems. However, it also has two minor drawbacks: different thicknesses of compression frames are needed if a wide range of board thickness is to be produced, and there is a slight loss of open-press daylight due to the use of a compression frame.
Wrinkles--whether theyre on your face or on your clothes, they are not your friend. Dealing with wrinkles on clothes, however, is much easier than those on your face. Use the Hamilton Beach Professional Iron on a steam setting and youll be rid of wrinkle s in no time.
Instructions 1
Unplug the iron. Set the steam control on top of the iron to O (Dry Iron). Hold the iron so that the sole plate is parallel to the ground, counter top or ironing board.
2
Open the water fill cover. Fill the measuring cup with tap water, and then slowly pour it into the water tank opening until the MAX fill line is reached. Close the water fill cover.
3
Plug the iron into an electrical outlet. Turn the temperature control guide on the body of the iron to the desired fabric setting within the steam range. Allow the iron to heat for 2 minutes in order to reach the appropriate temperature. Set the Steam On/Off control to the steam sign. It looks like a small cloud.
4
Spread the garment to be ironed onto the ironing board. Before placing the hot iron on the garment, test an inconspicuous spot, like on the inside of the garment. This will let you know whether the iron is the correct temperature for this fabric and help prevent scorching. If the temperature is correct, then proceed to iron the garment. Press and release the Blast button on top of the handle when you need a burst of steam to iron stubborn wrinkles.
5
Turn the iron off when you are finished ironing by setting the Steam On/Off control to O (Dry Iron). Turn the temperature control dial to Off. Unplug the iron. Empty the water from the iron.
Read more: How to Steam Press Clothes | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4442901_steam-pressclothes.html#ixzz2OZ0DwkSQ
The steam press method is ideal for keeping your delicate fabrics in good condition, while avoiding wrinkles. However, these fabrics can be damaged by improper pressing, and each requires its own special techniques. Cashmere, velvet, silk and delicate synthetics all have their particular pressing needs. Pay careful attention to the fiber content and fabric type of your garments when you press, and you'll get the best results
Cashmere
Cashmere wool is soft and comfortable. It's also known for being tricky to clean. You can't just toss your cashmere sweaters into the washer and dryer. Take your sweater to the dry cleaner or hand wash and steam clean. To steam press a cashmere sweater, set it to a low temperature that won't damage the wool. Steam it gently, one area at a time, and hang it as usual.
Silk
Silk is a strong fabric, but it wrinkles very easily. Press delicate silk fabrics on low heat to avoid removing the shine. Don't press for long periods of time---use a quick, light touch. Holding the iron on them for too long can leave imprints on your silk garments. Take care not to re-wrinkle your garment by leaning on it when you move to a new area, and hang the garment immediately after pressing.
Synthetics
Nylon, rayon and other synthetics must be pressed on the lowest setting because they burn and scorch easily. Steam press with a towel or other buffer fabric between the press plate and the garment. Press the back side of the garment only, and avoid holding the iron on the material for too long, as with silk.
Formal Gowns
Formal dresses are often made from delicate fabrics such as silk, satin or chiffon. Check the tags---some gowns that appear to be silk are really polyester or another artificial fiber. Pressing methods for these fabrics are different than those for natural fabrics. Press gowns inside out if possible, and never press on high heat. Avoid extended steam pressing, which may scorch or melt the fibers. Iron areas with lace or embroidery separately to prevent wrinkling. Hang the gown as soon as you're done pressing, and allow the fabric to cool before wearing. This prevents stretching and damage to delicate fabric.
Fashion experts the world over use the steam press as an effective way of ridding fabrics and materials of wrinkles. Moist heat penetrates the fabric, relaxing the fibers, allowing the wrinkles to release. Ironing has been a custom traced back to the Roman and Egyptian empires. The method changes but the result is the same: material free from wrinkles is pleasant to look at.
The term, steam press, is used for two separate and useful apparatus. There is the steamer that uses an atmospheric steam to permeate the garment with either little or no contact with the material, used while the garment is hanging in its natural form. There is also the press that compresses the fabric between two hot surfaces that look like ironing boards.
Steam is five times faster than ironing. The modern choice is the gentlest, quickest, most reliable and efficient method to remove wrinkles, and can be used on the most fragile materials and fabrics. It is the industry standard backstage on film sets, fashion shows and photo shoots. The steamer is convenient to refresh garments after unpacking during travel. Smaller travel versions are available for those on the go.
This form of steam press is 14 times the size of an average iron and is used for distinctive starched looks. Press several layers of fabric at once and create a crisp look. It is excellent for jeans, pleated uniforms, dress shirts and slacks. Use it for that industrial straight-fromthe-dry cleaner crispness.
3. Multiple Uses
The hand-held version is used for personal use and industry professionals to steam press and smooth everything from wigs to drapery to clothing, upholstery, carpeting and wallpaper. Use the steamer skillfully; it is a remarkable tool for putting on that finishing touch for all types of projects.
Sponsored Links Read more: Uses for a Steam Press | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/info_8581031_usessteam-press.html#ixzz2OYrpEfzI
There are various types of garment pressing equipment used in the garment industry for different types of garments. Most garment pressing equipment machines range from miniature ironing boards to specialized steam machinery for different types of garments. Pressing equipment is also used in industries such as laundromats and small fabric shops.
Collar and Lapel Garment Pressing equipment : Garment collar and lapel
pressing equipment is ergonomically designed to press shirt collars, blouses, coats and jackets. The pressing board is curved so the collar or lapel of a garment fits snugly on the layout board of the garment pressing equipment. Many collar and lapel presses are hand
Sleeve and Arm Garment Pressing Equipment : Sleeve and arm garment
pressing equipment is used to iron the sleeves of jackets and coats after the garment is manufactured or designed. Sleeve and arm pressers are engineered vertically or as flatsurface machines with the pressing boards shaped in the form of an arm. Depending on the type of fabric the jacket or coat is made of, there are different settings for each type of fabric. These settings range from low, medium or high settings, which can be adjusted by a dial or switch.
equipment is used to iron smaller fabrics after the manufacturing or design phase. These finishing garment pressing machines consist of hand-ironing devices attached to the pressing board for manual ironing. The ironing boards are flat surfaces shaped in a square or rectangle for easy ironing.
Read more: Types of Pressing Equipment Used in the Garment Industry | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_6178473_types-equipment-used-garment-industry.html#ixzz2NbZe5ShP
It focuses on several area: Greater versatility More precision in determining exact pressing requirements of fabrics and finishes Improved quality Energy savings
Fl at Wor k Ir oner
Machine to dry and iron all flat materials. e.g. -Bed Sheets, Pillow covers, Table Cloth & Napkins directly after Hydro extraction to produce a quality finish. Excellent design of roller angle ensures greater area of contact to give higher output and increased productivity. This machine is fed from the front, with a front return type. Micro processor control and inverter drives are present to regulate speed up to 10 mtrs / min. Feeding and heating belts are imported to ensure the best quality and long life. Very low power and steam consumption compact design of front head and return requires working space only on the front side. This machine is equipped with digital temperature indicator and digital speed indicator. Hand safety guard and emergency stop are provided to ensure safe working conditions. Variable speed drive for different types of fabrics and reversing the direction are also possible. Specially designed blower to remove excess moisture. Available in 2 standard sizes. Machines of higher evaporation ratio with 600 mm also available.
Flexible heater mat that adapts to the shape of the cuffs and the collar Optimal temperature setting and digital temperature display Adjustable pressure setting for delicate fabrics Integrated workstation design for easily picking up and putting down the forms The sleeves of a short-sleeved shirt can be pressed on the collar press
Finishing Techniques
Pressing and finishing quality can 'make or break' a garment. The move offshore means that garments are morelikely to become creased during transportation, while new fabrics and surface treatments present new challenges for manufacturers.
A protective cover for the control panel is available so as not to hi t the sensitivity level or change the mode of operation by accident
References:The Technology of Clothing Manufacture by Harold Carr and Barbara Latham. www.ramsonsindia.com
Guide to Apparel and Textile Care Symbols (PDF, 596 KB, 6 pages)
A revised Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB) standard providing new and improved industry symbols to help consumers clean and launder clothing safely was hot off the press in December 2003. The new standard (CAN/CGSB-86.1-2003) reflects the labelling practices being discussed by the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and is also harmonized with the American and international standard on care labelling. In the new edition, five basic symbols identify care treatments for washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and professional cleaning. The symbols are in black and white, replacing the previous edition'straffic-light colours of green, amber and red. The temperature of a treatment appears either in degrees Celsius or is defined by a series of dots (a hand iron symbol with one dot means the garment can be safely ironed at a temperature of 110C). And bars help illustrate the severity of the treatment (one bar below a wash tub means the garment should be machine washed using a mild treatment). Other symbols define techniques for professional cleaning, hand washing, and natural drying dry flat, line dry, drip dry, dry in the shade.
Washing Symbols Symbol Description Wash in commercial machine in water not exceeding 95C, at normal setting. Wash in commercial machine in water not exceeding 95C, at permanent press setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 70C, at normal setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 60C, at normal setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 60C, at permanent press setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 50C, at normal setting.
Washing Symbols Symbol Description Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 50C, at permanent press setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 50C, at delicate/gentle setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 40C, at normal setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 40C, at permanent press setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 40C, at delicate/gentle setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 30C, at normal setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 30C, at permanent press setting. Wash in domestic or commercial machine in water not exceeding 30C, at delicate/gentle setting. Wash gently by hand in water not exceeding 40C. Wash gently by hand in water not exceeding 30C. Wash in domestic or commercial machine at any temperature, at normal setting. Do not wash.
Bleaching Symbols Symbol Description Use any bleach when needed. Use only non-chlorine bleach when needed. Do not bleach.
Drying Symbols Symbol Description Tumble dry at high heat (not exceeding 75C) at normal setting. Tumble dry at medium heat (not exceeding 65C) at normal setting. Tumble dry at medium heat (not exceeding 65C) at permanent press setting. Tumble dry at low heat (not exceeding 55C) at permanent press setting. Tumble dry at a low heat (not exceeding 55C) at delicate cycle. Tumble dry any heat. Tumble dry no heat/air dry. Do not tumble dry. After extraction of excess water, line dry/hang to dry. Hang up the soaking wet article to drip dry. After extraction of excess water, dry the article on a suitable flat surface. Dry in the shade (symbol added to line dry, drip dry, or dry flat). Do not dry. To be used with Do not wash symbol .
Ironing/Pressing Symbols Symbol Description Iron with or without steam by hand, or press on commercial equipment, at a high temperature (not exceeding 200C). Recommended temperature for cotton and linen textiles. Iron with or without steam by hand, or press on commercial equipment, at a medium temperature (not exceeding 150C). Recommended temperature for polyester, rayon, silk, triacetate and wool textiles. Iron with or without steam by hand, or press on commercial equipment, at a low temperature (not exceeding 110C). Recommended temperature for acetate, acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, polypropylene and spandex textiles. Do not steam. Do not iron or press.
Professional Textile Care Symbols Symbol Description Dry-clean, normal cycle. Any solvent except trichloroethylene Dry-clean, normal cycle. Petroleum solvent only. Do not dry-clean. Use of Dots For Defining Temperature of Water for Washing Symbol Symbol Definition Description 95C Near boil 70C 60C 50C 40C 30C Extremely hot Very hot Hot Warm Cool
Supplementary Care Symbol Symbol Description Do not wring Wet-clean Do not wet-clean.
top of page
For more information on the Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB) and how to order the standardCAN/CGSB-86.1-2003, please visit their Web site at www.ongc-cgsb.gc.ca, or contact Ms. Patricia Dolhan at (819) 956-0777. Cat. no. 0-662-37764-8 ISBN Iu23-3/2004E-HTML 54173 54173 Date modified: