The set-down in the second-order Stokes waves

Xiao-Bo Chen Research Department, Bureau Veritas, Paris La D efense, France Fax: +33-1-4291.3395 Email: xiao-bo.chen@bureauveritas.com

ABSTRACT Under the assumption of small wave steepness, the classical Stokes expansion is used to analysis regular and bichromatic waves upto the second order. An additional set-down term is derived by considering the limit of second-order bichromatic waves of two wave frequencies when one wave frequency tends to another and its equivalence to the second-order regular waves. It is shown that the resulting contribution to set-down is much more signicant than the classical Stokes term. Some discussions and conclusions are given at the end of the paper. 1 INTRODUCTION Based on the power series of the wave steepness ka which is assumed to be small (ka 1), Stokes (1847) gave the nonlinear solution for regular wave trains in deep water and then extended to nite waterdepth. The largely used form of the Stokes waves up to the second order is written as : = a sin(kx t + ) ka2 3 tanh2 (kh) ka2 cos(2kx 2t +2) 3 2 2 sinh(2kh) 2 tanh (kh) (1)

in which (a, k, , , h) stand for wave amplitude, wavenumber, wave frequency, phase and waterdepth, respectively. The rst term on the right hand side of (1) is the rst-order Stokes waves also called as Airys waves. The second term is the second-order correction which makes the crest of Airys waves sharper and the trough atter. The third term D= ka2 2 sinh(2kh) (2)

is a negative constant called the set-down which represents the mean level in regular Stokes waves. There is an extra arbitrary term involved in the Bernoulli equation related to the need to specify an initial condition. By assuming that the mean level in regular waves is the same as that of a calm sea by Molin (2002), the value of is simply determined as the magnitude of the third term but with the opposite sign, i.e. = D. The so-dened regular Stokes waves of the second order have two issues. One concerning its validity in describing free-surface elevation especially in shallow water (kh 1), is solved by the requirement that the ratio between the magnitude of the second term and that of the rst term is small : ka[3 tanh2 (kh)] 1 4 tanh3 (kh) or ka/(kh)3 1 for kh 0 (3)

in agreement with the analysis by Ursell (1953). The value ka/(kh)3 is then called as Ursells parameter.

The other issue concerns the inconsistence of the global set-down in regular waves and in bichromatic waves. Considering two regular waves with frequencies 1 and 2 , unit amplitude and the same initial phase, the set-down in the limit as 1 2 is not equal to that of a regular wave of the same frequency with the amplitude doubled. The problem was raised by Eatock Taylor (1989) but the controversy has persisted or totally ignored as in Dalzell (1999). In this paper, we start with the analysis on the second-order velocity potential in both regular and bichromatic waves. By making the limit of bichromatic wave of two frequencies when one tends to anther and considering the equivalence to the regular wave, an additional set-down term is derived so that a consistent formulation of second-order Stokes waves is developed. 2 SECOND-ORDER VELOCITY POTENTIAL The velocity potential describing regular and bichromatic waves satises the Laplace equation, a no-inow condition on the sea bed and a nonlinear boundary condition on the free surface. Following Stokes expansion, the velocity potential is written as = (1) + (2) + (4)

The rst-order potential (1) is simple as it satises a homogeneous condition at the mean free surface while the second-order potential (2) is conditioned by : g (2) zz + tt = Q with Q = 2(1) t + ((1) zz + ztt /g )t
(1) (1) (1) (2)

(5a)

(5b)

at z = 0 with the non-homogeneous term Q in quadratic function of the rst-order potential. 2.1 Potential of regular waves The velocity potential of Airys waves is well known and expressed by the real part of a complex function : (1) = {(1) eit } with (1) = ag cosh[k (z + h)] ikx+i e cosh(kh) (6b) (6a)

in which (, k ) satisfy the dispersion relation 2 = gk tanh(kh) with g the acceleration of gravity. Introducing the rst-order potential (1) of regular waves into the second equation of (5b), we have Q = {qei2t } with q= i 3 a2 3 ei2kx+i2 2 sinh2 (kh) (7b) (7a)

The second-order potential, which satises the Laplace equation and the free-surface condition (5a) can be expressed as : (2) = {(2) ei2t } Cgt with (2) = i 3 a2 cosh[2k (z + h)]ei2kx+i2 8 sinh4 (kh) (8b) (8a)

in which the term (Cgt) is the missing term in the original Stokes waves with g the acceleration of gravity and C a constant to be determined and (2) is called double-frequency potential. 2.2 Potential of bichromatic waves The rst-order velocity potential of bichromatic waves can be written as: (1) = {1 ei1 t + 2 ei2 t }
(1) (1) (1) (1)

(9a)

in which 1 and 2 are dened by the same expression as (6b) in which we replace (, k ) by (1 , k1 ) and (2 , k2 ), respectively. Introducing (9a) into the second equation of (5a), we have Q = {q1 ei21 t } + {q2 ei22 t } + {q+ ei t } + {q ei t }
+

(9b)

where q1 and q2 are dened by the same formulation as q given by (7a). The terms q associated with are given by q+ = ia1 a2 g 2 A+ eik and q = ia1 a2 g 2 A eik with = 1 2 , and
2 2 k1 /1 1 1 + 2 k2 /2 k1 k2 (T12 1) + 2 2 1 2 2 cosh (k1 h) cosh (k2 h) 2 2 k2 /2 k1 /1 1 1 2 k1 k2 (T12 +1) + A = 2 2 1 2 2 cosh (k1 h) cosh (k2 h)
+

x+i+

(10a)

x+i

(10b)

k = k1 k2 ,

= 1 2

A+ =

(11a) (11b)

in which T12 = tanh(k1 h) tanh(k2 h). Accordingly, the second-order velocity potential in bichromatic waves is expressed as : (2) = {1 ei21 t } + {2 ei22 t } (C1 + C2 )gt + {+ ei(1 +2 )t } + { ei(1 2 )t } (12a) where 1 and 2 given by : + = q+ and = q
(2) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2) (2)

are given by the same formulation as (8a) for (2) , while + and are

(2)

(2)

cosh[k + (z + h)]/ cosh(k + h) gk + tanh(k + h) ( + )2

(12b)

cosh[k (z + h)]/ cosh(k h) gk tanh(k h) ( )2

(2)

(12c)

The potentials + and are usually called sum-frequency (or high-frequency) potential and dierence-frequency (or low-frequency) potential, respectively. 2.3 Determination of the constant To determine the constant C in (8a) and (C1 , C2 ) in (12a), we perform 1 2 and 1 2 at the same time. The rst-order potential of bichromatic waves (9a) becomes the potential of regular waves (6a) with the amplitude doubled. In order to keep the consistence, the components at double

(2)

frequency and the set-down of the second-order potential in bichromatic waves are quadruple of that in regular waves, i.e. : 1 + 2 + + 4(2) and (C1 + C2 )gt + { ei(1 2 )t } 4(Cgt)
(2) (2) (2) (2)

(13)

(14)

The rst limit (13) is satised as can be easily checked. The second limit (14) gives the constant : C = lim { ei t }/(2gt) =

(2)

ka2 4S +1 tanh2 (kh) 4 4S 2 kh tanh(kh)

(15a)

with S= sinh(2kh) 2kh +sinh(2kh) (15b)

since C1 C2 C for 0. 3 SECOND-ORDER STOKES WAVES The free-surface elevation is expanded in the same way as the velocity potential : = (1) + (2) + in which the rst-order and second-order components (1) and (2) are dened by : (1) = t /g and (2) = t zt /g (1) (1) /2 t
(1) (1) (2) (1)

(16a)

(16b)

/g

(16c)

Introducing the rst-order potential of regular waves (6a) into the rst equation of (16c), we get the rst term of the Stokes waves (1). From (16c), we observe that the second-order wave (2) is composed of two parts. One part is quadratic products of the rst-order potential represented by the rst two terms in (16c). The second part is related directly to the second-order potential presented by the third term. 3.1 Regular waves By introducing (6a) and (8a) of the rst- and second-order potentials of regular waves into (16c), we obtain : (2) = a2 A cos(2kx 2t +2) a2 (D + C ) with A= k 3 tanh2 (kh) 2 2 tanh3 (kh) k/2 sinh(2kh) k 4S +1 tanh2 (kh) 4 4S 2 kh tanh(kh) (17b) (17a)

D = D/a2 = and C = C/a2 =

(17c)

(17d)

0.8

C (kh)3 /k
0.6

0.4

D (kh)/k

0.2

0 0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1

kh

Figure 1: Additional set-down term C (17d) and classical set-down term D (17c) The rst term in (17a) is the double-frequency waves. The second term is the set down. The term D is the original one in (1) contributed by the rst-order potential while C , which is missing in the classical Stokes waves (1) and present in (8a) and (15a), comes from the second-order potential. It can be shown that : C (3/4)k/(kh)3 and C k/(4kh 1) for kh which is more signicant than the original set-down in Stokes waves (1) : D= and D ke2kh for kh (18d) k/2 k/(4kh) for kh 0 sinh(2kh) (18c) (18b) for kh 0 (18a)

The variation of C (kh) and D(kh) is presented on the left part of Figure 1 against the wavenumber kh. The values of both C (kh) and D(kh) in the gure are multiplied by (kh)3 /k and (kh)/k , respectively. 3.2 Bichromatic waves By introducing (9a) and (12a) of the rst- and second-order potentials in bichromatic waves into (16c), we get : (2) = 1 + 2 + +12 + 12
(2) (2) (2) (2) (2)

(19)

1 is the second-order wave associated with the double-frequency 21 and the two set-down terms given by the same formulation as (17a) in which we replace (a, , k, ) by (a1 , 1 , k1 , 1 ). (2) The formulation (17a) is applicable as well to 2 by replacing (a, , k, ) by (a2 , 2 , k2 , 2 ). The (2) (2) new components + and are given by : +12 = a1 a2 H12 cos(k + x + t + + ) and 12 = a1 a2 B12 cos(k x t + )
(2) (2)

(20a)

(20b)

with H12 and B12 dened by H12 = B12 1 2g 2 + A+ 1 2 2 1 2 (1 T12 ) + 1 + 2 + + 2g gk tanh(k + h) ( + )2 2g 2 A 1 1 2 2 1 2 (1 + T12 ) 1 2 + = 2g gk tanh(k h) ( )2 (20c) (20d)

in which the notations (k , , ) = (k1 k2 , 1 2 , 1 2 ), T12 = tanh(k1 h) tanh(k2 h) and A dened in (11) are used. 3.3 Irregular waves In irregular waves, the free-surface elevation of the rst order is represented by the Fourier series :
N

(1) =
j =1

aj sin(kj x j t + j ) with

aj =

2S (j )j

(21)

for a sea state represented by its energy spectrum S ( ). The second-order waves :
N N j 1 N j 1

(2) =
j =1

(2)

+
j =2 k=1

+kj +
j =2 k=1

(2)

kj

(2)

which can be further written explicitly :

N N

(2)

=
j =1

a2 j (Dj

+ Cj ) +
j =1 N j 1

a2 j Aj cos(2kj x 2j t +2j )

+
j =2 k=1

ak aj Bkj cos[(kk kj )x (k j )t + k j ]
N j 1

+
j =2 k=1

ak aj Hkj cos[(kk + kj )x (k + j )t + k + j ] (22)

in which the coecients (Dj , Cj , Aj ) are dened in (17b) while Bkj and Hkj by (20d) and (20c), respectively. 4 DISCUSSIONS AND CONCLUSIONS By an analysis of Stokes waves up to the second order in regular and bichromatic waves, the set-down is found to be the sum of the original one D and the new one C . The component D is dependent on the rst-order wave eld while C is contributed by the second-order velocity potential which seems to have been missed. Furthermore, the component C is much more signicant than D as shown on Figure 1. Dierent wave components of bichromatic waves of (1 , 2 ) = (0.53, 0.47) rad/s with an equal amplitude (a1 = a2 = 0.8m) and zero phase in water of depth (h = 15m) at the instant t = 0 are depicted on Figure 2 against x. The free-surface elevation of (1) is represented by the dot-dashed line. The low-frequency component is illustrated by the dotted line while the set-down component C = 0.152 (much larger than D = 0.016) by the dashed line. The total free-surface elevation including also the double-frequency and high-frequency components which are not shown for the sake of clarity, is traced by the solid line. This new component C of the set-down in the second-order Stokes waves can also be derived in a regular wave if the method of multiple scales performed in Davey & Stewartson (1974) and Mei (1989) is applied. This nding is hoped to ll the gap in the consistent simulation of second-order Stokes waves in the water of small depth wherever the Stokes theory is still applicable, i.e. the cases when the Ursells parameter is small. Although this set-down component does not contribute to the horizontal components of low-frequency wave loads, the vertical components of wave loads

2 1.5 1 0.5 0 -0.5 -1 -1.5 -2 -600

(1) + (2) D+C (2) 12 (1)

-400

-200

200

400

600

Figure 2: Dierent wave components of bichromatic waves at t = 0 are much aected. The mean position of a oating structure is pulled down so that the clearance between the structures bottom and sea bed (one of design criteria) is reduced. This eect appears to have been widely overlooked in usual second order analyses. As pointed out in Eatock Taylor (1989), it is necessary to take account of both set-down terms to maintain the consistency between the second-order mean vertical force in a regular wave and the low-frequency force in bichromatic waves. A discontinuity should appear on either side of the diagonal of the quadratic transfer function for second-order vertical forces if the additional set-down term C is omitted. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The author would like to thank Dr. Jerry Huang (ExxonMobil), Dr. Marc Prevosto (IFREMER) and Prof. Eatock Taylor (Oxford University) for their constructive inputs, discussions and comments on the subject. REFERENCES Dalzell J.F. (1999) A note on nite depth second-order wave-wave interactions. Applied Ocean Research 21, 105-11. Davey A. & Stewartson K. (1974) On three-dimensional packets of surface waves. Proc. R. Soc. London A 338, 101-10. Eatock Taylor R. (1989) Is there an inconsistency in the treatment of low frequency second order vertical forces ? Proc. 4th IWWWFB, 55-9. Mei C.C. (1989) The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. World Scientic. Molin B. (2002) Hydrodynamique des structures oshore. Editions Technip. Stokes G.G. (1847) On the theory of oscillatory waves. Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc. 8, 441-55. Ursell F. (1953) The long-wave paradox in the theory of gravity waves. Proc. Camb. Phil. Soc. 49, 685-94.