Proyectos de Electronica.

Recopilado por: Eddy Vilca
Electrónica-2008
Light switch
General Description
This project will let you make a switch that

will be activated by light falling on a sensor.
It is a very useful device and can be used in
automatisms, security systems, counters,
remote controls etc. It is very sensitive, fast
acting and reliable. The circuit uses a Light
Dependent Resistor (LDR) as a sensor and
three transistors to amplify the signals from
the LDR and drive the relay which does the
switching.
Technical Specifications - Characteristics
Working voltage: ......... 12 VDC
Maximum current: ....... 50 mA
How it Works
As you can see from the circuit diagram in the input of the circuit there is a trimmer (R7)
connected in series with the LDR in such a way as to form a voltage divider. When light falls on
the LDR it causes its resistance to change and this causes the voltage across the LDR to
change accordingly. These voltage changes are used to change the state of the transistor TR2
switching it ON and OFF. The
output from TR2 drives TR1 and this in turn TR3 which drives the output relay. The diode D1
protects the transistor from the back emf that is produced from the relay coil when it is turned
off. The trimmer R7 adjusts the sensitivity of the circuit so it is possible to use it under widely
different conditions. The circuit operates from a 9-12 VDC power supply and the relay contacts
are rated at 250 V/2 A.
Construction
First of all let us consider a few basics in building electronic circuits on a printed circuit board.
The board is made of a thin insulating material clad with a thin layer of conductive copper that is
shaped in such a way as to form the necessary conductors between the various components of
the circuit. The use of a properly designed printed circuit board is very desirable as it speeds
construction up
considerably and reduces the possibility of making errors. Smart Kit boards also come pre-
drilled and with the outline of the components and their identification printed on the component
side to make construction easier.
To protect the board during storage from oxidation and assure it gets to you in perfect condition
the copper is tinned during manufacturing and covered with a special varnish that protects it
from getting oxidised and makes soldering easier.
Soldering the components to the board is the only way to build your circuit and from the way you
do it depends greatly your success or failure. This work is not very difficult and if you stick to a
few rules you should have no problems. The soldering iron that you use must be light and its
power should not exceed the 25 Watts. The tip should be fine and must be kept clean at all
times. For this purpose come very handy specially made sponges that are kept wet and from
time to time you can wipe the hot tip on them to remove all the residues that tend to accumulate
on it. DO NOT file or sandpaper a dirty or worn out tip. If the tip can not be cleaned,
replace it. There are many different types of solder in the market and you should choose a good
quality one that contains the necessary flux in its core, to assure a perfect joint every time. DO
NOT use soldering flux apart from that which is already included in your solder. Too much flux
can cause many problems and is one of the main causes of circuit malfunction. If nevertheless
you have to
use extra flux, as it is the case when you have to tin copper wires, clean it very thoroughly after
you finish your work. In order to solder a component correctly you should do the following:
Electrónica-2008
Clean the component leads with a small piece of emery paper - Bend them at the
correct distance from the component body and insert the component in its place on the board.
You may sometimes find a component with heavier gauge leads than usual, that are too thick to
enter in the holes of the p.c. board. In this case use a mini drill to
increase the diameter of the holes slightly. Do not make the holes too large as this is going to
make soldering difficult afterwards.
Take the hot iron and place its tip on the component lead while holding the end of the solder
wire at the point where the lead merges from the board. The iron tip must touch the lead slightly
above the p.c. board. When the solder starts to melt and flow wait till it covers evenly the area
around the hole and the flux boils and gets out from underneath the solder. The whole operation
should not take more than 5 seconds. Remove the iron and leave the solder to cool naturally
without blowing on it or moving the component. If everything
was done properly the surface of the joint must have a bright metallic finish and its edges should
be smoothly ended on the component lead and the board track. If the solder looks dull, cracked,
or has the shape of a blob then you have made a
dry joint and you should remove the solder (with a pump, or a solder wick) and redo it. Take
care not to overheat the tracks as it is very easy to lift them from the board and break them.
When you are soldering a sensitive component it is good practice to hold the lead from the
component side of the board with a pair of long-nose pliers to divert any heat that could possibly
damage the component.
Make sure that you do not use more solder than it is necessary as you are running the risk of
short-circuiting adjacent tracks on the board, especially if they are very close together.
After finishing your work cut off the excess of the component leads and clean the board
thoroughly with a suitable solvent to remove all flux residues that still remain on it. You shouldnt
face any special problems with this project. The only unusual component is the LDR and you
should decide where you want to put your project and how you are going to activate it as it will
be necessary to leave a hole in the case for the sensor and possibly orientated the whole case
towards the light beam. As usual start building the circuit with the resistors leaving the LDR for
the final stage. Mount the relay on the board and solder the transistors and the diode in their
places making sure that nothing went in the wrong place or the wrong way round. When
everything is in its place solder the LDR carefully, as it is very fragile and can be easily
damaged if overheated. Make the last visual check and if you are satisfied that all is well you
can connect the circuit to a power supply or a battery of at least 9 VDC. Cover the sensitive
surface of the LDR and turn the trimmer till you hear the relay clicking. If you uncover the sensor
the relay should click again. You will probably have to read just the trimmer once the circuit is
cased and you are ready to use it in some application, in order to fine-tune it to the conditions
that you want it to operate in.
Warning
Smart kits are sold as stand alone training kits. If they are used as part of a larger assembly and
any damage is caused, our
company bears no responsibility.
While using electrical parts, handle power supply and equipment with great care, following
safety standards as described by international specs and regulations.
If it does not work
Check the power supply to make sure there are at least 9 VDC across the circuit, and that the
polarity is correct. Make sure the transistors and the diode are connected the right way round.
Check your work for possible dry joints, bridges across adjacent tracks or soldering flux
residues that usually cause problems.
Electronic Diagrams.
Electrónica-2008
R = light resistor
R1 = 4,7 K
R2 = 1,2 K
R3 = 2,2 K
R4 = 1,2 K
R5 = 1,2 K
R6 = 2,7 K
R7 = 100 K
C1 = 10 μf/16V
TR1 = BC107-BC108 NPN (CV7644)
TR2 = BC107-BC108 NPN (CV7644)
TR3 = BC557-BC558-BC327 PNP
D1 = 1N4148 Diode
RELAY = 12V relay
Electrónica-2008
Touch Switch
Supply voltage: 12 VDC

Max. current:30 mA
Relay rating: 250 V/2 A
How it Works
The circuit as you can see from its diagram is very simple and only uses 8 components. The
heart of the circuit is the IC CD 4011 that is connected as a FLIP-FLOP. Pins 9 and 13 of the IC
are the «SET» and «RESET» contacts of the FLIP-FLOP. The IC is of the CMOS type and
requires a very low current to in its gates to control it. This high sensitivity of the circuit makes
the touch operation possible. The two gates are held at logic state «1» continuously by means
of the two resistors R1 and R3 that connect them to the positive supply rail. These resistors
have a very large resistance of 10 Mohm. If we now touch a set of contacts the skin resistance
closes the circuit between the corresponding gate and the negative supply rail. The skin
resistance for small areas of the skin is normally much lower than 10 Mohm and the gate is
effectively brought to logic condition «0» which makes the FLIP-FLOP change state. For any
given state of the FLIP-FLOP touching the corresponding set of contacts will make the circuit to
reverse its state of balance and in effect toggle the switch. As a switch is used a relay driven by
a transistor which is driven from the out put of the FLIP-FLOP.
Construction
construction up
considerably and reduces the possibility of making errors. Smart Kit boards also come pre-
drilled and with the outline of the components and their identification printed on the component
side to make construction easier. To protect the board during storage from oxidation and assure
it gets to you in perfect condition the copper is tinned during manufacturing and covered with a
special varnish that protects it from getting oxidised and makes soldering easier. Soldering the
components to the board is the only way to build your circuit and from the way you do it
depends greatly your success or failure. This work is not very difficult and if you stick to a few
rules you should have no problems. The soldering iron that you use must be light and its power
should not exceed the 25 Watts. The tip should be fine and must be kept clean at all times. For
this purpose come very handy specially made sponges that are kept wet and from time to time
you can wipe the hot tip on them to remove all the residues that tend to accumulate on it.
DO NOT file or sandpaper a dirty or worn out tip. If the tip cannot be cleaned, replace it. There
are many different types of solder in the market and you should choose a good quality one that
contains the necessary flux in its core, to assure a perfect joint every time.
DO NOT use soldering flux apart from that which is already included in your solder. Too much
flux can cause many problems and is one of the main causes of circuit malfunction. If
nevertheless you have to use extra flux, as it is the case when you have to tin copper wires,
clean it very thoroughly after you finish your work. In order to solder a component correctly you
should do the following:
Clean the component leads with a small piece of emery paper. - Bend them at the correct
distance from the component body and insert the component in its place on the board. You may
find sometimes a component with heavier gauge leads than usual, that are too thick to enter in
the holes of the p.c. board.
In this case use a mini drill to enlarge the holes slightly. Do not make the holes too large as
this is going to make soldering difficult afterwards.
Electrónica-2008
Take the hot iron and place its tip on the component lead while holding the end of the solder
wire at the point where the lead emerges from the board.
The iron tip must touch the lead slightly above the p.c. board.
When the solder starts to melt and flow wait till it covers evenly the area around the hole and
the flux boils and gets out from underneath the solder. The whole operation should not take
more than 5 seconds. Remove the iron and let the solder to cool naturally without blowing on it
or moving the component. If everything was done properly the surface of the joint must have a
bright metallic finish and its edges should be smoothly ended on the component lead and the
board track. If the solder looks dull, cracked, or has the shape of a blob then you have made a
dry joint and you should remove the solder (with a pump, or a solder wick) and redo it.
Take care not to overheat the tracks as it is very easy to lift them from the board and break
them.
When you are soldering a sensitive component it is good practice to hold the lead from the
Make sure that you do not use more solder than it is necessary as you are running the risk of
short-circuiting adjacent tracks on the board, especially if they are very close together. - After
having finished your work cut off the excess of the component leads and clean the board
thoroughly with a suitable solvent to remove all flux residues that still remain on it.
The switch only has eight components and its construction is very easy even for the most
inexperienced. As usual construction must start from the least sensitive to heat components,
which in this case are the IC socket and the pins. After soldering the pins and the socket, make
the two jumper connections that are marked on the component side of the board, solder the
relay in its place and continue with the transistor the diode and the LED. Once everything is in
its place clean the board very well from flux residues and check it for short circuits and possible
mistakes.
Then, place the IC in its socket. The IC is of the CMOS family and should be
handled with great care as it can be damaged very easily from static discharges. Avoid touching
its pins and keep your body and the circuit board grounded during insertion. You should also
take care not to bent any pins underneath the IC body during this operation.
Now connect the points marked + & - on the board with 12 VDC and touch lightly the set of
contacts marked «ON». You should hear the clicking of the relay and the LED should light up.
(In case the LED turns on at power up then touch the other set of contacts that are marked
«OFF».) Touching the contacts marked «OFF» will turn the LED off and the relay should be
released. It is up to you
to connect any device you want to control with the touch switch but please remember that you
should not exceed the power rating of the relay which is 250 V/2 A.
Electrónica-2008
Dimensions 5,5cm x 4,2cm
If it does not work
residues that usually cause problems.
-Check again all the external connections to and from the circuit to see if there is a mistake
there.
See that there are no components missing or inserted in the wrong places.
Make sure that all the polarised components have been soldered the right way round.
Make sure the supply has the correct voltage and is connected the right way round to your
circuit.
Make sure that you have inserted the IC in its socket correctly and that you have not bent any
pins during insertion.
Check your project for faulty or damaged components.
Parts
R1:...........10MOhm 1/4 W D2:...........1N4148 diode
R2:...........10MOhm 1/4 W TR1:.........BC558 PNP Transistor - BC327
R3:........... 1KOhm 1/4 W IC1:..........CD4011 CMOS IC
D1:........... Led red RL1:..........12V relay rated at 250 V / 2A
Electrónica-2008
IR Remote Control Extender Circuit

Description:
This is an improved IR remote control extender circuit. It has high noise immunity, is resistant to
ambient and reflected light and has an increased range from remote control to the extender
circuit of about 7 meters. It should work with any domestic apparatus that use 36-38kHz for the
IR carrier frequency. Please note that this is NOT compatible with some satellite receivers that
use 115KHz as a carrier frequency.
Notes:
The main difference between this version and the previous circuit, is that this design uses a
commercially available Infra Red module. This module, part number IR1 is available from
Harrison Electronics in the UK. The IR module contains a built in photo diode, amplifier circuit
and buffer and decoder. It is centerd on the common 38kHz carrier frequency that most IR
controls use. The module removes most of the carrier allowing decoded pulses to pass to the
appliance. Domestic TV's and VCR's use extra filtering is used to completely remove the carrier.
The IR1 is packaged in a small aluminium case, the connections viewed from underneath are
shown below:
How It works:
The IR1 module (IC3) operates on 5 Volt dc. This is provided by the 7805 voltage regulator, IC1.
Under quiescent (no IR signal) conditions the voltage on the output pin is high, around 5 volts
dc. This needs to be inverted and buffered to drive the IR photo emitter LED, LED2. The
buffering is provided by one gate (pins 2 & 3) of a hex invertor the CMOS 4049, IC2. The IR1
module can directly drive TTL logic,but a pull-up resistor, R4 is required to interface to CMOS
IC's. This resistor ensures that the signal from a remote control will alternate between 0 and 5
volts. As TTL logic levels are slightly different from CMOS, the 3.3k resistor R4 is wired to the +5
volt supply line ensuring that the logic high signal will be 5 volts and not the TTL levels 3.3 volts.
The resistor does not affect performance of the IR module, but DOES ensure that the module
will correctly drive the CMOS buffer without instability.
The output from the 4049 pin 2 directly drives transistor Q1, the 10k resistor R1 limiting base
current. LED1 is a RED LED, it will flicker to indicate when a signal from a remote control is
received. Note that in this circuit, the carrier is still present, but at a reduced level, as well as the
Electrónica-2008
decoded IR signal. The CMOS 4049 and BC109C transistor will amplify both carrier and signal
driving LED2 at a peak current of about 120 mA when a signal is received. If you try to measure
this with a digital meter, it will read much less, probably around 30mA as the meter will measure
the average DC value, not the peak current. Any equipment designed to work between 36 and
40kHz should work, any controls with carrier frequencies outside this limit will have reduced
range, but should work. The exception here is that some satellite receivers have IR controls that
use a higher modulated carrier of around 115KHz. At present, these DO NOT work with my
circuit, however I am working on a Mark 3 version to re-introduce the carrier.
Parts List:
C1 100u 10V
C2 100n polyester
R1 10k
R2 1k
R3 33R 1W
R4 3k3
Q1 BC109C
IC1 LM7805
IC2 CMOS 4049B
IC3 IR1 module from Harrison Electronics See Last paragraph
LED1 Red LED (or any visible colour)
LED2 TIL38 or part YH70M from Maplin Electronics
Pinouts for the IC's can be found on my IC pinout page, click here.
Testing:
This circuit should not present too many problems. If it does not work, arm yourself with a
multimeter and perform these checks. Check the power supply for 12 Volt dc. Check the
regulator output for 5 volt dc. Check the input of the IR module and also Pin 1 of the 4049 IC for
5 volts dc. With no remote control the output at pin 2 should be zero volts. Using a remote
control pin 2 will read 5 volts and the Red LED will flicker. Measuring current in series with the
12 volt supply should read about 11mA quiescent, and about 40/50mA with an IR signal. If you
still have problems measure the voltage between base and emitter of Q1. With no signal this
should be zero volts, and rise to 0.6-0.7 volts dc with an IR signal. Any other problems, please
email me, but please do the above tests first.
PCB Template:
Once again a PCB template has been kindly drafted for this project by Domenico.
Electrónica-2008
Frost Alarm
Notes:
The thermistor used has a resistance of 15k at 25 degrees and 45k at 0 degrees celsius. A
suitable bead type thermistor is found in the Maplin catalogue. The 100k pot allows this circuit to
trigger over a wide range of temperatures. A slight amount of hysteresis is provided by inclusion
of the 270k resistor. This prevents relay chatter when temperature is near the switching
threshold of this circuit.
Sound Operated Switch

Electrónica-2008
Notes:
This sensitive sound operated switch can be used with a dynamic microphone insert as above,
or be used with an electret (ECM) microphone. If an ECM is used then R1 (shown dotted) will
need to be included. A suitable value would be between 2.2k and 10kohms.
The two BC109C transitors form an audio preamp, the gain of which is controlled by the 10k
preset. The output is further amplified by a BC182B transistor. To prevent instability the preamp
is decoupled with a 100u capacitor and 1k resistor. The audio voltage at the collector of the
BC182B is rectified by the two 1N4148 diodes and 4.7u capacitor. This dc voltage will
directly drive the BC212B transistor and operate the relay and LED.
It should be noted that this circuit does not "latch". The relay and LED operate momentarily in
response to audio peaks.
UltraSonic Radar
General Description
This is a very interesting project with many practical applications in security and alarm systems for homes, shops and cars. It
consists of a set of ultrasonic receiver and transmitter which operate at the same frequency. When something moves in the area
covered by the circuit the circuits fine balance is disturbed and the alarm is triggered. The circuit is very sensitive and can be
adjusted to reset itself automatically or to stay triggered till it is reset manually after an alarm.

Working voltage: 12V DC
Current: 30 mA
How it Works
As it has already been stated the circuit consists of an ultrasonic transmitter and a receiver both
of which work at the same frequency. They use ultrasonic piezoelectric transducers as output
and input devices respectively and their frequency of operation is determined by the particular
devices in use.
The transmitter is built around two NAND gates of the four found in IC3 which are used here
wired as inverters and in the particular circuit they form a multivibrator the output of which drives
the transducer. The trimmer P2 adjusts the output frequency of the transmitter and for greater
efficiency it should be made the same as the frequency of resonance of the transducers in use.
The receiver similarly uses a transducer to receive the signals that are reflected back to it the
output of which is amplified by the transistor TR3, and IC1 which is a 741 op-amp. The output of
IC1 is taken to the non inverting input of IC2 the amplification factor of which is adjusted by
means of P1. The circuit is adjusted in such a way as to stay in balance as long the same as the
output frequency of the transmitter. If there is some movement in the area covered by the
ultrasonic emission the signal
that is reflected back to the receiver becomes distorted and the circuit is thrown out of balance.
The output of IC2 changes abruptly and the Schmitt trigger circuit which is built around the
remaining two gates in IC3 is triggered. This drives the output transistors TR1,2 which in turn
give a signal to the alarm system or if there is a relay connected to the circuit, in series with the
collector of TR1, it becomes activated. The circuit works from 9-12 VDC and can be used with
batteries or a power supply.
Electrónica-2008
Construction
construction up considerably and reduces the possibility of making errors. Smart Kit boards also
come pre-drilled and with the outline of the components and their identification printed on the
component side to make construction easier. To protect the board during storage from oxidation
and assure it gets to you in perfect condition the copper is tinned during manufacturing and
covered with a special varnish that protects it from getting oxidised and also makes soldering
easier. Soldering the components to the board is the only way to build your circuit and from the
way you do it depends greatly your success or failure. This work is not very difficult and if you
stick to a few rules you should have no problems. The soldering iron that you use must be light
and its power should not exceed the 25 Watts. The tip should be fine and must be kept clean at
all times. For this purpose come very handy specially made sponges that are kept wet and from
time to time you can wipe the hot tip on them to remove all the residues that tend to accumulate
on it. DO NOT file or sandpaper a dirty or worn out tip. If the tip cannot be cleaned, replace it.
There are many different types of solder in the market and you should choose a good quality
one that contains the necessary flux in its core, to assure a perfect joint every time. DO NOT
use soldering flux apart from that which is already included in your solder. Too much flux can
cause many problems and is one of the main causes of circuit malfunction. If nevertheless you
have to use extra flux, as it is the case when you have to tin copper wires, clean it very
thoroughly after you finish your work. In order to solder a component correctly you should do the
following:
@Clean the component leads with a small piece of emery paper.
@Bend them at the correct distance from the components body and insert the component in its
place on the board.
@You may find sometimes a component with heavier gauge leads than usual, that are too thick
to enter in the holes of the p.c. board.
@In this case use a mini drill to enlarge the holes slightly. Do not make the holes too large as
this is going to make soldering difficult afterwards.
Electrónica-2008
@Take the hot iron and place its tip on the component lead while holding the end of the solder
wire at the point where the lead emerges from the board. The iron tip must touch the lead
slightly above the p.c. board.
@When the solder starts to melt and flow wait till it covers evenly the area around the hole and
the flux boils and gets out from underneath the solder. The whole operation should not take
more than 5 seconds. Remove the iron and allow the solder to cool naturally without blowing on
it or moving the component. If everything was done properly the surface of the joint must have a
bright metallic finish and its edges should be smoothly ended on the component lead and the
board track. If the solder looks dull, cracked,or has the shape of a blob then you have made a
dry joint and you should remove the solder (with a pump, or a solder wick) and redo it.
@Take care not to overheat the tracks as it is very easy to lift them from the board and break
them.
@When you are soldering a sensitive component it is good practice to hold the lead from the
@Make sure that you do not use more solder than it is necessary as you are running the risk of
short-circuiting adjacent tracks on the board, especially if they are very close together.
@When you finish your work cut off the excess of the component leads and clean the board
thoroughly with a suitable solvent to remove all flux residues that may still remain on it.
@There are quite a few components in the circuit and you should be careful to avoid mistakes
that will be difficult to trace and repair afterwards. Solder first the pins and the IC sockets and
then following if that is possible the parts list the resistors the trimmers and the capacitors
paying particular attention to the correct orientation of the electrolytic.
@Solder then the transistors and the diodes taking care not to overheat them during soldering.
The transducers should be positioned in such a way as they do not affect each other directly
because this will reduce the efficiency of the circuit. When you finish soldering, check your work
to make sure that you have done everything properly, and then insert the ICs in their sockets
paying attention to their correct orientation and handling IC3 with great care as it is of the CMOS
type and can be damaged quite easily by static discharges. Do not take it out of its aluminium
foil wrapper till it is time to insert it in its socket, ground the board and your body to discharge
static electricity and then insert the IC carefully in its socket. In the kit you will find a LED and a
resistor of 560 which will help you to make the necessary adjustments to the circuit. Connect
the resistor in series with the LED and then connect them between point 9 of the circuit and the
positive supply rail (point 1).
Connect the power supply across points 1 (+) and 2 (-) of the p.c. board and put P1 at roughly
its middle position. Turn then P2 slowly till the LED lights when you move your fingers slightly in
front of the transducers. If you have a frequency counter then you can make a much more
accurate adjustment of the circuit. Connect the frequency counter across the transducer and
adjust P2 till the frequency of the oscillator is exactly the same as the resonant frequency of the
transducer. Adjust then P1 for maximum sensitivity. Connecting together pins 7 & 8 on the p.c.
board will make the circuit to stay triggered till it is manually reset after an alarm. This can be
very useful if you want to know that there was an attempt to enter in the place which are
protected by the radar.
Electrónica-2008
Adjustments
This kit does not need any
adjustments, if you follow the building
instructions.
Warning
If they are used as part of a larger assembly and any damage is caused, our company bears no
responsibility.
While using electrical parts, handle power supply and equipment with great care, following
safety standards as described by international specs and regulations.
If it does not work
residues that usually cause problems. Check again all the external connections to and from the
circuit to see if there is a mistake there.
See that there are no components missing or inserted in the wrong places.
Make sure that all the polarised components have been soldered the right way round. Make
sure that the supply has the correct voltage and is connected the right way round to your circuit.
Check your project for faulty or damaged components.
If everything checks and your project still fails to work, please contact your retailer and the
Smart Kit Service will repair it for you.
Componets
R1 = 180 KOhm C1, 6 = 10uF/16V TR1, 2, 3 = BC547 , BC548
R2 = 12 KOhm C2 = 47uF/16V P1 = 10 KOhm trimmer
R3, 8 = 47 KOhm C3 = 4,7 pF P2 = 47 KOhm trimmer
R4 = 3,9 KOhm C4, 7 = 1 nF IC1, 2 = 741 OP-AMP
R5, 6, 16 = 10 KOhm C5 = 10nF IC3 = 4093 C-MOS
R7, 10, 12, 14, 17 = 100 KΩ C8, 11 = 4,7 uF/16V R = TRANSDUCER 40KHz
R9, 11 = 1 MOhm C9 = 22uF/16V T = TRANSDUCER 40KHz
R13, 15 = 3,3 KOhm C10 = 100 nF D1, 2, 3, 4 = 1N4148
C12 = 2,2 uF/16V
C13 = 3,3nF
C14 = 47nF
Infra Red Remote Control Extender

Description
This circuit is used to relay signals from an Infra Red remote control in one room to an IR
controlled appliance in another room.
Forward
I have seen these devices advertised in magazines, they sell for around £40-£50 and use radio
to transmit between receiver and transmitter. This version costs under £5 to make and uses a
cable connection between receiver and transmitter. For example, if you have a bedroom TV set
that is wired to the video or satellite in another room, then you can change channels on the
Electrónica-2008
remote satellite receiver using this circuit. The idea is that you take your remote control with
you, aim at the IR remote control extender which is in the same room, and this will relay the IR
signal and control the remote appliance for you. The circuit is displayed below:
Parts List:
1 SFH2030 Photodiode
1 TIL38 IR emitting diode
1 5mm Red LED
2 4.7M 1/4W resistors
1 1k 1/4W resistor
1 2.2k 1/4W resistor
1 27ohm 1/2W resistor
1 BC337 transistor
1 CA3140 MOSFET opamp
The LPC661 opamp Radio Shack # 900-6332 can be used as a substitute for the CA3140
Circuit Benefits
This circuit has an advantage over other similar designs in that there is nothing to adjust or set-
up. Also bellwire or speaker cable can be used to remotely site the IR emitting diode, since this
design uses low output impedance and will not pick up noise. Some systems require coaxial
cable which is expensive and bulky. The wireless variety of remote control extenders need two
power supplies, here one is used and being radio are inevitably EM noise pollution. A visual
indication of the unit receiving an Infra Red signal is provided by LED1. This is an ordinary
coloured LED, I used orange but any colour will do. You will see LED1 flash at a rate of 4 - 40Hz
when a remote control button is pressed. LED0 is an Infra Red Emitter Diode, this is remotely
wired in the room with the appliance to be controlled. I used the type SFH487 which has a peak
wavelength of 880nm. This is available in the UK from Maplin Electronics, order code CY88V.
Most IR remote controls operate at slightly different wavelengths, between the range of 850 -
950nm. If you cannot obtain the SFH487 then any IR emitter diode that has an output in the
above range should work.
About IR Remote Controls

As previously stated IR remote controls use wavelengths between 850 - 950nm. At this short
wavelength, the light is invisible to the human eye, but a domestic camcorder can actually view
Electrónica-2008
this portion of the electromagnetic spectrum. Viewed with a camcorder, an IR LED appears to
change brightness. All remote controls use an encoded series of pulses, of which there are
thousands of combinations. The light output intensity varies with each remote control, remotes
working at 4.5V dc generally will provide a stronger light output than a 3V dc control. Also, as
the photodiode in this project has a peak light response at 850nm, it will receive a stronger
signal from controls operating closer to this wavelength. The photodiode will actually respond
to IR wavelengths from 400nm to 1100nm, so all remote controls should be compatible.
Circuit Description
The receiver is built around a silicon photodiode, the SFH2030 available from Maplin, order
code CY90X. This photodiode is very sensitive and will respond to a wide spectral range of IR
frequencies. There is a small amount of infra red in direct sunlight, so make sure that the diode
does not pick up direct sunlight. If this happens, LED1 will be constantly lit. There is a version of
the SFH2030 that has a daylight filter built in, the SFH2030F order code CY91Y. A TIL100 will
also give good results here. A photodiode produces minute pulses of current when exposed to
infra red radiation. This current (around 1uA with the SFH2030 and a typical IR control used at a
distance of 1 meter) is amplified by the CA3140 opamp. This is configured as a differential
amplifier and will produce an output of about 1 volt per uA of input current. The photodiode, can
be placed up to a meter or so away from the circuit. Screened cable is not necessary, as
common mode signals (noise) will be rejected. It is essential to use a MOSFET input type here
as there is zero output offset and negligible input offset current. A 741 or LF351 can not be used
in this circuit. The output from the opamp is amplified by the BC337 operating in common
emitter mode. As a MOSFET opamp IC is used, its quiescent voltage output is zero and this
transistor and both LED's will not be lit. The 1k resistor makes sure that the BC337 will fully
saturate and at the same time limits base current to a safe level. Operating an IR remote control
and pointing at the photodiode (SFH2030) will cause both LED's to illuminate, you will only see
the visable coloured LED (LED1) which will flicker. Remote controls use a system of pulse code
modulation, so it is essential that the signal is not distorted by any significant amount. Direct
coupling, and a high speed switching transistor avoid this problem.
Construction
No special PCB is required, I built my prototype on a small piece of Veroboard. The pinout for
the CA3140 is shown below. Note that only the pins labeled in the schematic are used, pins 1, 5
and 8 are not used and left unconnected.
Alignment
There is nothing to set-up or adjust in this circuit. The only thing to watch is that the emitting
diode is pointing at the controlled device (video, CD player, etc). I found that the beam was quite
directional. Also make sure that there is a direct line of sight involved. It will not work if a 5 foot
spider plant gets in the way, for example. I had a usable range at 5 meters, but possibly more
distance may be possible. As a check, place a dc volt meter across the 27 ohm resistor. It
should read 0 volts, but around 2 or 3 volts when a remote control is aimed at the photodiode.
Specifications of Prototype
Having made my prototype, I ran a few tests :-
Electrónica-2008
Current consumption 2mA standby 60mA operating ( with 12V supply)

2mA standby 85mA operating (with 15V supply)
IR receiver range < 1 meter
IR transmitter range > 5 meters
It is difficult to measure the IR transmitter range as this is dependent upon a number of factors.
The type of infra red control used and its proximity to the receiving photodiode, the voltage
supply, the wavelength and efficiency of the IR emitter and the sensitivity of the controlled
appliance all affect overall performance.
In Use
The reception range of the IR remote control to the photodiode depends on the strength of the
remote control, but I had a working range of a meter or so, this needs bearing in mind when
placing the circuit. Its also a good idea to wire LED1, the coloured LED near to the photodiode,
that way, you know that the unit has received a signal. The IR emitter has a larger range, I had
no problems at 5 meters but may possibly work further distances. The emitting diodes are quite
directional, so make sure it is aimed directly at the appliance to be controlled. The IR emitting
diode is small and can be placed out of sight. I drilled a small hole above the door frame. The
emitter diode leads were insulated and pushed through this hole, leaving an inch or so to adjust
the angle and position of the LED. From a distance, the clear plastic lens of the diode could not
be seen.
Final Comments and Fault Finding

To date this has proved to be one of the most popular circuits on my site. Of all the email I
receive about this circuit, most problems relate to the Infra Red photo diode. You must make
sure that this is pointed away from sunlight, or use a type with daylight filter, otherwise LED1 will
be constantly lit, and LED0 will be in operation also. This will draw excessive current and in
some case overheat the BC337. The main problem is when using a different photo diode to the
SFH2030. Any other photo diode LED should work, but you need to know its operating
wavelength range beforehand. This will generally be described in the manufacturers data sheet
or possibly described if you order from an electronic component catalogue. With these last two
points in mind, you should be rewarded with a useful and working circuit.
PCB Template
This has been very kindly drafted by Domenico from Italy. First the copper side:
A magnified view from the component side is shown below:

Electrónica-2008
Fridge door Alarm

Circuit diagram:
Parts:
R1____________10K 1/4W Resistor
R2___________Photo resistor (any type)
R3,R4________100K 1/4W Resistors
C1____________10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor

C2___________100΅F 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1,D2_______1N4148 75V 150mA Diodes
IC1___________4060 14 stage ripple counter and oscillator IC
Q1___________BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor

Electrónica-2008
BZ1__________Piezo sounder (incorporating 3KHz oscillator)
SW1__________Miniature SPST slide Switch
B1___________3V Battery (2 AA 1.5V Cells in series)

Circuit operation:
This circuit, enclosed in a small box, is placed in the fridge near the lamp (if any) or the opening.
With the door closed the interior of the fridge is in the dark, the photo resistor R2 has a high
resistance (>200K) thus clamping IC1 by holding pin 12 high. When a beam of light enters from
the opening, or the fridge lamp lights, the photo resistor lowers its resistance (<2K), pin 12 goes
low, IC1 starts counting and, after a preset delay (20 seconds in this case) the piezo sounder
beeps for 20 sec. then stops for the same lapse of time and the cycle repeats until the fridge
door closes. D2 connected to pin 6 of IC1 makes the piezo sounder beeping 3 times per
second.
Notes:
• Connecting D1 to pin 2 of IC1 halves the delay time.
• Delay time can be varied changing C1 and/or R3 values.
• Any photo resistor type should work well.
• Current drawing is insignificant, so SW1 can be eliminated.
• Place the circuit near the lamp and take it away when defrosting, to avoid circuit
damage due to excessive moisture.
• Don't place it in the freezer.
Electrónica-2008
Capacitive Sensor
Parts:
R1,R2_____1M 1/4W Resistors
R3,R4____47K 1/4W Resistors
C1_______10΅F 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

C2______470pF 630V Ceramic or Polyester Capacitor
D1-D3____1N4002 100V 1A Diodes
Q1-Q3_____BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistors
RL1_______Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch

Coil Voltage 12V. Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm
J1________Two ways output socket
Sensor____Aluminium or copper thin sheet with the dimensions of a post-card,

glued at the rear of the same (approx. 15x10.5 cm.)
Thin screened cable
Circuit description:
The purpose of this circuit is to animate shop-windows by means of a capacitive sensor placed
behind a post-card-like banner. The card is placed against the glass inside the shop-window,
and the visitor can activate the relay placing his hand on the card, from the outside. Especially
suited for toy-shops, the circuit can activate model trains, small electric racing cars, lights etc.
Further applications are left at user's imagination. Adopt it to increase the impact of your shop-
window on next Christmas season!
Q1, Q2 & Q3 form a high impedance super-Darlington that drives the relay, amplifying the 50Hz
alternate mains-supply frequency induced in the sensor by the human body. C1 & D2, D3
ensure a clean relay's switching. Power supply can be any commercial wall plug-in transformer
with rectifier and smoothing capacitor, capable of supplying the voltage and current necessary
to power the relay you intend to use.
Note: For proper operation, circuit ground must be connected via a small value, high voltage-
rating capacitor to one side of the mains supply socket. The "Live" side is the right one.
Infra-red Level Detector
Electrónica-2008
Parts:
R1_____________10K 1/4W Resistor
R2,R5,R6,R9_____1K 1/4W Resistors
R3_____________33R 1/4W Resistor
R4,R8___________1M 1/4W Resistors
R7_____________10K Trimmer Cermet
R10____________22K 1/4W Resistor
C1,C4___________1΅F 63V Electrolytic or Polyester Capacitors

C2_____________47pF 63V Ceramic Capacitor
C3,C5,C6______100΅F 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
D1_____________Infra-red LED
D2_____________Infra-red Photo Diode (see Notes)
D3,D4________1N4148 75V 150mA Diode
D5______________LED (Any color and size)
D6,D7________1N4002 100V 1A Diodes
Q1____________BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistor
IC1_____________555 Timer IC
IC2___________LM358 Low Power Dual Op-amp
IC3____________7812 12V 1A Positive voltage regulator IC
RL1____________Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch

Coil Voltage 12V. Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm
J1_____________Two ways output socket
Device purpose:
This circuit is useful in liquids level or proximity detection. It operates detecting the distance
from the target by reflection of an infra-red beam. It can safely detect the level of a liquid in a
tank without any contact with the liquid itself. The device's range can be set from a couple of
cm. to about 50 cm. by means of a trimmer.
Range can vary, depending on infra-red transmitting and receiving LEDs used and is mostly
affected by the color of the reflecting surface. Black surfaces lower greatly the device's
sensitivity.
Circuit operation:
IC1 forms an oscillator driving the infra-red LED by means of 0.8mSec. pulses at 120Hz
frequency and about 300mA peak current. D1 & D2 are placed facing the target on the same
line, a couple of centimeters apart, on a short breadboard strip. D2 picks-up the infra-red beam
Electrónica-2008
generated by D1 and reflected by the surface placed in front of it. The signal is amplified by
IC2A and peak detected by D4 & C4. Diode D3, with R5 & R6, compensate for the forward
diode drop of D4. A DC voltage proportional to the distance of the reflecting object and D1 & D2
feeds the inverting input of the voltage comparator IC2B. This comparator switches on and off
the LED and the optional relay via Q1, comparing its input voltage to the reference voltage at its
non-inverting input set by the Trimmer R7.
Notes:
• Power supply must be regulated (hence the use of IC3) for precise reference voltages.
The circuit can be fed by a commercial wall plug-in power supply, having a DC output
voltage in the range 12-24V.
• Current drawing: LED off 40mA; LED and Relay on 70mA @ 12V DC supply.
• R10, C6, Q1, D6, D7, RL1 and J1 can be omitted if relay operation is not required.
• The infra-red Photo Diode D2, should be of the type incorporating an optical sunlight
filter: these components appear in black plastic cases. Some of them resemble TO92
transistors: in this case, please note that the sensitive surface is the curved, not the flat
one.
• Avoid sun or artificial light hitting directly D1 & D2.
• Usually D1-D2 optimum distance lies in the range 1.5-3 cm.
• If you are needing a similar circuit driving 3 LEDs in sequence, also suitable as a
parking aid.
Field-strength meter
Parts:
R1____________330K 1/4W Resistor
R2____________100R 1/4W Resistor
C1_____________10nF 63V Polyester or Ceramic Capacitor

C2____________100΅F 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
Q1____________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistor

Q2____________BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistor
SW1____________Reed Switch and small magnet (See Notes)
SPKR___________8 Ohm Loudspeaker (See Notes)
B1_____________3V Battery (two A or AA cells wired in series etc.)
Device purpose:
Electrónica-2008
This circuit, enclosed in a small plastic box, can be placed into a bag or handbag. A small
magnet is placed close to the reed switch and connected to the hand or the clothes of the
person carrying the bag by means of a tiny cord.
If the bag is snatched abruptly, the magnet looses its contact with the reed switch, SW1 opens,
the circuit starts oscillating and the loudspeaker emits a loud alarm sound.
The device can be reverse connected, i.e. the box can be placed in a pocket and the cord
connected to the bag.
This device can be very useful in signalling the opening of a door or window: place the box on
the frame and the magnet on the movable part in a way that magnet and reed switch are very
close when the door or window is closed.
Circuit operation:
A complementary transistor-pair is wired as a high efficiency oscillator, directly driving a small
loudspeaker. Low part-count and 3V battery supply enable a very compact construction.
Notes:
• The loudspeaker can be any type, its dimensions are limited only by the box that will
contain it.
• An on-off switch is unnecessary because the stand-by current drawing is less than
20΅A.
• Current consumption when the alarm is sounding is about 100mA.
• If the circuit is used as anti-bag-snatching, SW1 can be replaced by a 3.5mm mono
Jack socket and the magnet by a 3.5mm. mono Jack plug with its internal leads
shorted. The Jack plug will be connected with the tiny cord etc.
• Do not supply this circuit with voltages exceeding 4.5V: it will not work and Q2 could be
damaged. In any case a 3V supply is the best compromise.
Electrónica-2008
Voice activated switch
This circuit uses an MC2830 to form a voice activated switch ( VOX ). A traditional VOX circuit is
unable to distinguish between voice and noise in the incoming signal. In a noisy environment,
the switch is often triggered by noise, or the activation sensitivity must be turned down. This
circuit overcomes this weakness. The switch is activated by voice level above the noise and not
activated by background noise. This is done by utilizing the differences in voice and noise
waveforms. Voice waveforms generally have a wide range of variation in amplitude, whereas
noise waveforms are more stable. The sensitivity of the voice activation depends on the value of
R6. The voice activation sensitivity is reduced from 3.0dB to 8.0dB above the noise if R6
changes from 14k to 7.0k .
Metal Detector
The circuit described here is that of a metal detector. The operation of the circuit is based on
superheterodyning principle which is commonly used in superhet receivers. The circuit utilises
Electrónica-2008
two RF oscillators. The frequencies of both oscillators are fixed at 5.5 MHz. The first RF
oscillator comprises transistor T1 (BF 494) and a 5.5MHz ceramic filter commonly used in TV
sound-IF section. The second oscillator is a Colpitts oscillator realised with the help of transistor
T3 (BF494) and inductor L1 (whose construction details follow) shunted by trimmer capacitor
VC1. These two oscillators frequencies (say Fx and Fy) are mixed in the mixer transistor T2
(another BF 494) and the difference or the beat frequency (Fx-Fy) output from collector of
transistor T2 is connected to detector stage comprising diodes D1 and D2 (both OA 79). The
output is a pulsating DC which is passed through a low-pass filter realised with the help of a 10k
resistor R12 and two 15nF capacitors C6 and C10. It is then passed to AF amplifier IC1 (2822M)
via volume
control VR1 and the output is fed to an 8-ohm/1W speaker. The inductor L1 can be constructed
using 15 turns of 25SWG wire on a 10cm (4-inch) diameter air-core former and then cementing
it with insulating varnish. For proper operation of the circuit it is critical that frequencies of both
the oscillators are the same so as to obtain zero beat in the absence of any metal in the near
vicinity of the circuit. The alignment of oscillator 2 (to match oscillator 1 frequency) can be done
with the help of trimmer capacitor VC1. When the two frequencies are equal, the beat frequency
is zero, i.e. beat frquency=Fx-Fy=0, and thus there is no sound from the loudspeaker. When
search coil L1 passes over metal, the metal changes its inductance, thereby changing the
second oscillators frequency. So now Fx-Fy is not zero and the loudspeaker sounds. Thus one
is able to detect presence of metal.
Water level buzzer
Specifications
Water Level Buzzer is a simple kit which will buzz when water reaches the sensor
level.
• Input - 9 VDC @ 40 mA
• Output ??? Buzzer
• Terminal pins for supply voltage
• Power-On LED indicator
• Four mounting holes of 3.2 mm each
• PCB dimensions 32 mm x 35 mm
Electrónica-2008
Simple but reliable car battery tester

Electrónica-2008
This circuit uses the popular and easy to find LM3914 IC. This IC is very simple to drive, needs
no voltage regulators (it has a built in voltage regulator) and can be powered from almost every
source.
This circuit is very easy to explain:
When the test button is pressed, the Car battery voltage is feed into a high impedance voltage
divider. His purpose is to divide 12V to 1,25V (or lower values to lower values). This solution is
better than letting the internal voltage regulator set the 12V sample voltage to be feed into the
internal voltage divider simply because it cannot regulate 12V when the voltage drops lower
(linear regulators only step down). Simply wiring with no adjust, the regulator provides stable
1,25V which is fed into the precision internal resistor cascade to generate sample voltages for
the internal comparators. Anyway the default setting let you to measure voltages between 8
and 12V but you can measure even from 0V to 12V setting the offset trimmer to 0 (but i think
that under 9 volt your car would not start). There is a smoothing capacitor (4700uF 16V) it is
used to adsorb EMF noise produced from the ignition coil if you are measuring the battery
during the engine working. Diesel engines would not need it, but i'm not sure. If you like more a
point graph rather than a bar graph simply disconnect pin 9 on the IC (MODE) from power. The
calculations are simple (default)
For the first comparator the voltage is : 0,833 V corresponding to 8 V

Electrónica-2008
* * * * * voltage is : 0,875 V corresponding to 8,4 V
...
..
for the last comparator the voltage is : 1,25 V corresponding to 12 V
Have fun, learn and don't let you car battery discharge...
FUENTE: http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/index.html

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Recopilado por: Eddy Vilca

This project will let you make a switch that

Supply voltage: 12 VDC

Dimensions 5,5cm x 4,2cm

If it does not work

IR Remote Control Extender Circuit

Sound Operated Switch

Technical Specifications - Characteristics

Infra Red Remote Control Extender

About IR Remote Controls

Current consumption 2mA standby 60mA operating ( with 12V supply)

Final Comments and Fault Finding

A magnified view from the component side is shown below:

Fridge door Alarm

C1____________10nF 63V Polyester Capacitor

D1,D2_______1N4148 75V 150mA Diodes

IC1___________4060 14 stage ripple counter and oscillator IC

Q1___________BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor

BZ1__________Piezo sounder (incorporating 3KHz oscillator)

SW1__________Miniature SPST slide Switch

B1___________3V Battery (2 AA 1.5V Cells in series)

C1_______10΅F 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1-D3____1N4002 100V 1A Diodes

Q1-Q3_____BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistors

RL1_______Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch

J1________Two ways output socket

Sensor____Aluminium or copper thin sheet with the dimensions of a post-card,

Thin screened cable

C1,C4___________1΅F 63V Electrolytic or Polyester Capacitors

Q1____________BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistor

RL1____________Relay with SPDT 2A @ 220V switch

J1_____________Two ways output socket

C1_____________10nF 63V Polyester or Ceramic Capacitor

Q1____________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistor

SW1____________Reed Switch and small magnet (See Notes)

SPKR___________8 Ohm Loudspeaker (See Notes)

B1_____________3V Battery (two A or AA cells wired in series etc.)

Voice activated switch

Water level buzzer

Simple but reliable car battery tester

This circuit is very easy to explain:

For the first comparator the voltage is : 0,833 V corresponding to 8 V

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