Untitled CONTRUCTION DETAILS The first step is to get your barrel and a 1 inch x 1 1/2 inch x 5 inch piece

of metal for the frame. My barrel was 3/4 inch, much smaller and it gets too thin for the screw holes in the bottom lug and the extractor gets really small. The next step is to mark the frame for the center hole and pivit pin, trigger pin, hammer pin and lock pin. The barrel hole/channel is first drilled 1/4 inch all the way through. I made a bunch of piloted boreing bars and ran them in the lathe while the frame was bolted to the carriage with an angle plate. The easy way would be to use a piloted counter-bore 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch pilot because the bottom of the hole must be flat for the firing pin assembly to bear against it and you must have enough metal/strength to accept this load. 22 Long Rifle max 26,000 PSI 22 Mag max 28,000 PSI 5 mm rem mag or 5mm craig 37,000 PSI There are conversions for 22 mag to 17 HMR so figure at least 28,000 PSI for the 17 HMT. Measure the inside diameter of the rear of the case that your going to chamber for: pie x radius squared to get square inch of the back of the cartridge. Divide the PSI of the cartridge by the square inches of the cartridge. Double that for suddenly applied shock loads and that will give you the amount of pounds per square inch that the frame must bear. Trim the frame and mill the slots for trigger and trigger guard, hammer and bottom lug. Bottom lug is 1/4 inch, trigger is 3/16 inch, trigger guard is 3/8 inch and hammer is 3/8 inch. Drill the pivot pin hole, lock pin hole, trigger pin hole and hammer pin hole all 1/8 inch for now. When you make the hammer and trigger, drill the holes 1/8 inch first. Put some 1/8 inch pins in the frame and the hammer and trigger on the pins on the outside of the frame to final fit these parts. The firing pin assembly is made the same diameter as the barrel, 1/4 inch thick and threaded 5/16 - 18 for 3/8 inch or so. It gets trimmed later. Make sure it sets flush in the pocket. Mill a 1/4 inch wide slot in the barrel for the bottom lug. Make the bottom lug from 1/4 inch steel. Don't drill for the pivot pin or lock pin yet. Drill four holes in the lug, deep enough into the barrel for five threads. I used 4 - 40 allen head bolts. Mill a slot in the top rear of the lug for the extractor and drill a 1/16 inch hole for the retaining pin. Set the barrel in the channel, snug to the bottom and snug to the firing pin assembly. With a 1/8 inch transfer punch, mark the hole for the pivot pin and the lock pin. Drill the hole for the pivot pin 1/4 inch and the lock pin 5/16 inch. When you drill the holes in the frame, drill tap size holes first all the way through, then body size drill half way through. Same as for the hammer and trigger. The barrel channel must be radiased in the front before the barrel will pivot. Use round bar slightly smaller than barrel, stick on sand paper and lots of elbow grease. That's all the hard stuff. The rest is trial and error, lots of file work and fitting, metal finish, heat treating, grips and sights/scope.