Solar Water Heating Pump Controller

water | solar | electronics

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Build an electronic pump controller for a solar water heating system

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Any solar water heating system (DIY or otherwise) with a pump must have an electronic controller of some sort if everything is to run optimally.

Solar Water Heating Controller

This controller detects the temperature of the solar panel as well as that of the tank which stores the heated water. Whenever the solar panel is hotter than the stored water, the pump should run to send hot water from the panel into the hot water tank. However, when the stored water is hotter than the solar panel, the pump (pictured below) should be off since the stored water would otherwise be cooled by the panel.

Since this is a very simple concept, it is possible for anyone to build their own solar water heating pump controller relatively easily, and very cheaply. 12V 5 Watt pumps are available which can be powered directly by similarly rated PV Solar Panels providing completely renewable energy water heating.

Solar Water Heating System Pump Controller Circuit

The circuit diagram displayed above is from the Silicon Chip Online article entitled Pump Controller for Solar Water System. (Click on the circuit diagram to view a larger printable version). This very simple circuit is made up of just a few components. Key are the two temperature sensors (LM335Z) which are used to measure the temperatures of the solar panel and the water tank, and the comparator chip (LM393) which compares the two temperature readings. An STP60NE06 mosfet (a type of transistor) is used to turn on the pump when triggered by the output from the comparator. When the temperature of Sensor 1 (solar panel) is higher than the temperature of Sensor 2 (water tank), the 12V solar water pump is activated pumping hot water from the solar panel to the water tank as desired. When the temperature of the water tank is higher than that of the solar panel (for example at night) the pump is off.

LM335Z Temperature Sensors

The LM335Z temperature sensor (LM335Z Datasheet PDF available here) will accurately measure temperatures between -40 and 100 degrees Celcius. The voltage measured between the ground and the positive terminals of the LM335Z increases at 10mV per C. Since absolute zero is -273C, at 0C, the voltage measured at 0C is 2.73V . At room temperature the voltage will be 273 + 20 = 2.93 Volts etc. Since every sensor is slightly different, the circuit includes a couple of 10k variable resistors which can be used to set the voltage output of the two sensors used so that they give exactly the same reading when they are at the same temperature.

Since the sensors are accurate to within 1C, the variable resistors (trimpots) can be left out to simplify the circuit as shown above. Put the sensor with the higher output voltage at a particular temperature as Sensor 2 so that if both sensors are at the same temperature, the pump will be off.

Sensor 1 should be stuck against the copper pipe as it leaves the solar panel, and Sensor 2 should be

connected to the outside of the hot water tank underneath the insulation. In this way the two sensors will measure the temperature of the water pretty accurately without getting themselves wet. ( Note that water + sensor = broken sensor) NEW LM335Z Precision Temperature Sensors are now available in the REUK Shop.

Putting the Controller Together

Pictured below is the complete circuit put together for testing on prototyping breadboard .

For testing purposes the two temperature sensors have been placed side by side on the breadboard, and a 12V LED Spotlight Bulb is used instead of the hot water pump. Since the two temperature sensors are at the same temperature the pump is off. The 1 MOhm 10 MOhm resistor across legs 1 and 3 of the comparator chip provides 12mV of hysteresis - i.e. the readings from Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 have to differ by at least 12mV (1.2C) for the output from the comparator chip to be changed.

When Sensor 1 (solar panel) is warmed up slightly by the heat of a finger, the light bulb used in this prototype turns on as it should.

Modifying the Pump Controller Circuit for 240 VAC pump

If the hot water pump is a 220-240 Volt AC model (or 120 VAC for US visitors), then this same circuit can still be used by using a 12V relay (and diode) in place of the 12V pump in the circuit. When the temperature of the solar panel sensor is higher than that of the hot water tank, the relay will be triggered supplying electricity (from an external 240 Volt AC source) to the hot water pump.

Buying a Complete Solar Contoller or its Components

NEW We are now supplying complete solar pump controllers in the REUK Shop. Click here to find out more about our Solar Pump Controller Circuit (pictured at top of this page) offer. If you are interested in building your own pump controller and you need to buy some or all of the necessary components, contact us and we will put together a package for you from the REUK Shop.

WATER PUMP RELAY CONTROLLER CIRCUIT SCHEMATIC

Water reservoir automatic level control, Simple circuitry - 12V supply By means of a Relay, employed to drive a water pump, this circuit provides automatic level control of a water reservoir or well. The shorter steel rod is the "water high" sensor, whereas the longer is the "water low" sensor. When the water level is below both sensors, IC1C output (pin #10) is low; if the water becomes in contact with the longer sensor the output remains low until the shorter sensor is reached. At this point IC1C output goes high, Q1 conducts, the Relay is energized and the pump starts operating. Now, the water level begins to decrease and the shorter sensor will be no longer in contact with the water, but IC1C output will be hold high by the signal return to pin #5 of IC1B, so the pump will continue its operation. But when the water level falls below the longer sensor, IC1C output goes low and the pump will stop. SW1 is optional and was added to provide reverse operation. Switching SW1 in order to connect R3 to pin #11 of IC1D, the pump will operate when the reservoir is nearly empty and will stop when the reservoir is full. In this case, the pump will be used to fill the reservoir and not to empty it as in the default operating mode. Circuit diagram:

Water Pump Relay Control Circuit Diagram Parts: R1 = 15K - 1/4W Resistors R2 = 15K - 1/4W Resistors R3 = 10K - 1/4W Resistor R4 = 1K - 1/4W Resistor D1 = LED - any type and color D2 = 1N4148 - 75V 150mA Diode Q1 = BC337 - 45V 800mA NPN Transistor IC1 = 4001 Quad 2 Input NOR Gate CMos IC SW = SPDT Toggle or Slide Switch (Optional) RL1 = Relay with SPDT 2A @ 230V switch Coil Voltage 12V - Coil resistance 200-300 Ohm

SIMPLE WELL PUMP CONTROLLER FIND OUT HOW TO AUTOMATICALLY GET WATER FROM THE WELL INTO A HEADER TANK
water | electronics | electric circuit
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In this article we will look at how a simple system using float switches and relays can be put together to automate the process of getting water from a well, spring, or stream into a header tank ready for use. This system design uses no electronics, is very cheap and simple to put together, and it is reliable in operation. In our article Simple Sump Pump Controller we put together an electronics-free system to automatically pump out a sump pit when it gets full. One float switch at the top of the pit detects when it is full (turning on the pump), and a second near the bottom detects when it has been emptied (turning off the pump). If you have not already done so, you may wish to read that article first so you understand the concept behind the system described here.

WELL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM DESIGN

To automatically fill a header tank from a well, we need to reverse the configuration of the sump pit emptying system so that a float switch at the bottom of the header tank detects when it is empty starting the pump, and then a float switch at the top of the tank detects when the tank is full stopping the pump.

Pictured above is the connection diagram for this modified system. The float switches are configured such that they sit horizontally when they are not in water, and float upwards when they are in water: in water = switch open, out of water = switch closed. When the water level in the header tank falls below the lower float switch (LFS), that switch closes

energising the relay. Since the upper float switch (UFS) must also be out of water and closed, the
following connection is made: battery 12V -> UFS -> relay COM -> relay NO -> relay coil

Therefore, the relay is latched - i.e. will remain energised - for as long as the UFS remains closed (which it will as long as it is not under water). When the level of the water pumped up from the well finally reaches up above the UFS, it opens that switch breaking the connection between the battery and the relay coil and so turns off the pump.

CONNECTING THE PUMP

A 12V pump is connected to his system via a second relay as pictured below:

If a mains powered pump is to be used, then a qualified electrician must do the wiring (or at least check it and sign it off) and ensure that everything is correctly earthed and insulated etc.

WELL PUMP CONTROL CIRCUIT BOARD

Pictured below is an example circuit board for this system. Three LEDs (and electronics) have been added for visual confirmation of system status - red lit when the header tank is full, yellow lit when there is water in the header tank, and green lit when the pump is on.

Note that adding the LEDs made this circuit more complicated since it quite difficult to make an LED light up when a switch is open (which the float switches are when they are under water). In the circuit

pictured above a 4001B quad NOR gate integrated circuit was used to control the LEDs. NEW Pictured below is our latest circuit design for this system which gets rid of the need for an integrated circuit making it easier to solder together.

This version uses the mini-circuit pictured below to turn the red and yellow LEDs on only when the relevant float switch is open. When the float switch is closed, the voltage on the positive and negative legs of the LED is 12V - therefore the LED is off. When the float switch is open, 12V is on the positive leg of the LED and the negative leg is connected to GND (0V) via a current limiting resistor - therefore the LED is lit.

If you would like to have a pump controller such as the one pictured above put together, please contact neil@reuk.co.uk with full details of your requirements. Our latest circuit is available for around 17.