SOVIET-AMERICAN PEACE WALK

By Boris Alexeyev and NikoPai lkoyev Photographs by Yuri Abramochkin, Mikhail Dmitriyev and Oleg lastochkin
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It takes less than an hour by six or seven hours by train or overnight by car to cover the . plane, . 700 kilometers between Leningrad and Moscow. This past summer, however, a group of over 506 American and Soviet citizens, united by -a desire for preserving -peace, chose to go the distance on foot.
he Soviet-American Peace Walk started at Leningrad's Pulkovo Airport on June 15, when the Soviet participants met the American peace supporters. The first handshakes, the first smiles, the frrst acquaintances. Though they were strangers, it seemed as if old friends who hadn't seen each other for a long time were getting together. Murat Mazarov, who flew to Leningrad from Ashkhabad, the capltal of Turkmenia, said, "I was looking forward to meeting the Americans-! had so much to tell them and so many questrons to ask." "The flrst person down the plane's ramp was a tall, dark-haired guy holding a gwltar in his hands," related Soviet participant VFadimir Kopysov from Novgorod. "I immediately knew we'd get along. I, too, play the guitar and sing a little. Literally only a few minutes after Logan Hebner, a restaurant owner from Springdale, Utah, and I shook hands, a group gathered around us, so we gave an improvised concerl right there on the runway. we became Logan and I frequently sang on the walk. but more ~mportantly, good friends.'" Neither rain nor summer heat discouraged the peace walkers. Early each morning they got up, packed their dents and loaded everythfng onto the caravan of three trailers and 7 1 buses accompanying them. By eight o'clock they were ready to begin the next leg of the journey. The small town of Vyshniy Volochek, situated 300 kilometers northwest of Moscow, is young 'by Russian standards. It a s only 217 years old, but the number of old monuments makes the clty especially picturesque. Virtually the entire population of Vyshniy Volochek turned out to greet the participants in the walk. Dressed in colorful attire, people waved Soviet and American flags, held posters and presented flowers from their gardens. The town IS renowned for its textiles. Valentina Gaganova, a weaver famous throughout the Soviet Union, was born and grew up there and makes her 'Rome there today. In the 1960s Gaganova left her advanced work team for a less productive team that repeatedly failed to meet its plan targets. The problem was not that the team's quota was too high but that its operations were so poorly organized. Within a short period of time after joining the team, Gaganova had made it one of the best. She was awarded the title of Hero of Socialist Labor for her high performance on the job. Gaganova's action triggered an entire movement in the country. Addressing the peace walkers, Gaganova said: "We welcome you to our town since what you brlng with you-a concern for peace on earthconcerns us too. Many women in our town are involved in the antiwar movement, Through their efforts Vyshniy Volochek hosts, among other things, meetings between young people and World War II veterans. "Our children's survrval, preservation of life on earth-that is what we are striving for, that is what we are living for and that is why we have come to welcome you to our town." Natalya Kalrnycheva is also a weaver. She came to the town's main square with her three children, ages three to nine. The day before, She had by seen a program about the peace walk on tetevision and was ~ntrigued the story abowt the McWilliams family from Cleveland, Ohlo. The McWlli~amseshad brought with them their seven-month-old daughter, whom they carried on the~rback in typical American fashion. Thinking that the American family had left ~ t s baby stroller at home, Natalya discussed the matter with her children and dectded to buy a carriage and present it to the Ohloans the following day. This small vignette from the 44-day peace walk shows quite clearly the atmosphere that enveloped its participants along their entlre route. They met the same warmth wherever they were-in b!g crties like Leningrad and Moscow, in small towns like Vyshniy Volochek and in tiny villages. Yarnok, which lies a bit off the Moscow-Leningrad Highway, comprises just three dozen log cabins nestled among the rich verdurqof gardens. The cabins made of thick Togs are solrd and well built. 'The Americans are coming!" a little village boy shouted in childlike glee. Fair-haired Serge1 Shepetov, nine, was thrilled to see the residents of such a far-off country as the United States walking down his village street. Prompted by her mother, a little girl gave her doll to nine-year-old Eleawho accepted it with a broad grin. nor Helm from Wash~ngton, From Yamok it was on to Moscow-the end of the journey. Tne song "Moscow Nights." which is known far beyond the borders of the Soviet Union, is a calling card of sorts for the city. The tune was aiso heard many times by the peace walkers along their route. So it was no surprise when, as the motorship carrying the participants approached the dock of the Moscow Rtver terminal, many were humming the melody. An antiwar rally was held dockside, and words in support of world peace resounded once again. Following the rally, the participants planted "trees of friendship" in a park near the river. During the week spent in Moscow, the American participants went on sightsee~ng trips around the crty, visited the Lenin Mausoleum, toured various enterprises and met with representatives of the Moscow Peace Commlttee. Interesting discussions took place at public organizations, such as the Soviet Peace Committee, the Sov~etCommittee of War Veterans, the Union of Soviet Societies for Friendship and Cultural Relations wlth Foreign Countries and the Committee of Youth Organizations. One day was devoted to talking with members of the religious community, vlsitlng Moscow cathedrals and churches and touring Zagorsk, the center of the Russian Orthodox Church. July 4 was warm and sunny. The peace walk participants and the thousands of Muscovites who had joined them gathered in the morntng in front of the Soviet Peace Committee offices. From there began a march down Prospekt Mlra (Peace Avenue), one of the capital's marn thoroughfares. The march ended in a large antiwar rally at the USSR Exh~bitionof Economic Achievements. The focus then turned to a stadium in Izrnailovo, where a unique concert, which lasted over six hours, was held. Prominent performers from the Sovlet Union and the United States took part: James Taylor and Vladimir Presnyakov, Lama Vajkule and Bonnie Raitt, the Doobie Brothers and the Soviet rock group Autograph. The American virtuoso guitarist Carlos Santana was a tremendous hit. "I'm honored to have had the opportunity of taking part in this concert," Santana said. "My long-standing dream of visiting the Soviet Union has come true. Music is a universal language that everybody can understand. With my performance I join the particrpants in the peace walk." "In the Uuited States, today is Independence Day, and I'm very pleased to recelve the good wishes of the Sovlet people." said Raitt. "I believe that their wishes are sincere." Over the days walking side by side, the participants became very good friends. They showed that the concepts "peace" and "the future of humanity" are inseparable, that all of us on the planet can be good ne~ghbors. "Your country is wonderful and so are your people. It's a pity that I've only just come to know this," sa~d Linda Jewell from Edmonds, Washington. "I'll always remember how I came to spend the night at a Russian woman's house in Verkhniy Volochln. As the group walked through the town. I met a resident who invrted me to her house and 1 gladly accepted. As it turned out, she and 1 got so wrapped up in talking-of course we were helped by her daughter, who is studying English in school-that we completely lost track of t~rne. It was very late, and my new frrend invited me to spend the night there. I found the hospitality and warmth of the Soviet people incredible, and I" leaving with the hope for other encounters." The poss~billtyof another meeting was discussed at a press conference held in Moscow at the Soviet Peace CornmiTtee. F t was proposed that a s~milar walk be arranged to take place in the U.S. next summer. "Contacts between ordinary Americans and Soviet People will destroy the 'enemy stereotype,' which has been doggedly forged over many years,"said SOvlet Peace Cornm~ttee cha~rrnan Genr~kh Borovik. Alan bffeld, head of the Arnerlcan delegation, stated: "On the walk we were unrted by common goals-PTeserviW Peace and ridding humanity of nuclear weapons. The walk itself brought US closer together.-

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IF 1986.

MZKHAIL GORB.J*CHEV7SREPLY
want t o thank you for your letters, cables and messages e x p r ~ a s i n g greaitudt for the hospitable welcome accorded by the Soviet people t a the fnnrtictipenh in the Soviet-American Peace Walk. J rhink that the meetings with t h o u ~ a n d s of Soviet citizens and lively dehates on how t o e m u r e n peacefill r u t l l r ~for our children and p a r a n t e e humnnkind'fi survival will remain in the memory or the pence walkers For R long time. Yuur walk, t h e firmt ever held hy Soviet and American citizens in t h e entire hetween the USSR and the United state^, mekes a ~pecifir: history nf relation@ conrribution t o r h t effort t o huild t s u ~ and t t o promote mutual underatandin8 and liitnt!~hip, and ifl a fine example of ritixen dipromacy in nction. The Soviet Iearlership a u p p o r h aucb inifisthem, as they a r e hound t o estabJish good-neighborly r e l s t i o n ~ h e t w ~ nordinary people i n various countries, tweak down old RterPOtuMY3 a n d help ro create an image n i t a p r t n e r and friend inntead of an image o f a n ensmy. I ahaw the f ~ e l i n g uf ~ , r d o i ~ n concern d expl-enaed in your memagem ni the threat of a n i l c l ~ a rholocaunt that looma darkly over humankind and may dentroy rvery living thing o n this planet. From all atandywin~n,including, nat~lrally,the standpoint of morality, t h e time hae cum* tn part with nrlclear think in^, to heat swords into plowrhsres and t o put t h e funds thus relm-atwd toward meetins social need8 and creative purposes. It ie o u r conviction lhet the sole alternative to the policy of nuclear silicide and a guarantee af humankind'n nuwival is the creation of a nonviolrnt world, a world Ewe from nuclear weapons. a firm and staunch For everyone who treasures peace, the Soviet Union ally in the effort to attain these truly sacred goals of humankind. Thia ia the s~rhstanceof o u r entire policy. WP will continue t o i n t ~ n ~ o iu f r~ effnrts l o take advantage of all existing opportunities for making proprenn toward eholishing n~rclear weapons, I wish you and pour familien health, happiness and prosperity in a world without warn and weapons. Yours, Mikhail Gorhachev

MESSAGE OF PARTICIPANTS
e, participants i n the Soviet-Arn~rican Peace Walk, wish to axprem o u r gratitrzda t o you, the Soviet people, and the Soviet Poacr Committee for ~ I ~ I I cordiality F and hmpitality. The excellently a r g a n i t d g e b t f i p t h t r ~ during the peace walk from Leninurad to Moscow made it an important and m ~ ~ ~ f o r ~ e t tevent. a h l e We all hiallIy appreciate the vnsi efforts due to w h i ~ h t h i n first joint walk wae succesnhilly r ~ n l i z e d . The heartfelt warmth a n d enthuniasm, Bong, dances and greelinga d h h?.t h o u ~ a n d s oF people rll~ring the walk amazed and uvemhelrnetl us. Thp solemn ceremonies a t the memorial a i t t ~ reminding us a h n t rha h o r r a m of w a r completely convinced u s that t h e Soviet people aincprely want peace. O u r wafk has contributed to the creation of a n atmnnphere nf deeper mutual understanding: and hetter r r I a ~ i o n s between o u r peoples. It has demonstrated that people from very d i f f ~ r e n t c u l t u r n can cooperate and peacefully settle conflicts. We sincerely hope that these first steps will shorten the path t o nuclear disarmament and peace on earth. Keturnina home, w e promise t o rontinue o u r work aimed a t creatina a world without war. We h o p that this peace walk was just t h e first of such actions in trur countries. Allow us again to express o u r deepest gratitude t o all the people whose efforts b p l p d make this historic peaciwalk a reality. Wi~h hope for peace, Participants in the Peace Walk

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THE PARTICIPANTS SAY. .

Facing page (clockwise from rap left): Liane Adams, 46, a graduate student from Albuquerque, N e w Mexico; Yelena Antonova, 22, a student from Moscow; Rafael Zirnberoff, 22, a college student and farmworker from Sarnta Rosa, California; Paata Surpladze, 29, a history scholar at Tbilisi State University, Soviet Georgia; Edward McMullan, 55, a radio reporter from New York;Charles Borden, 47, a heavy equipment diesel mechanic from Victorville, California; Julianne Fanning-HaEberstein, 25, a teacher from Washington, D.C.; and Archimandrite Victor Oleinik, 47, secretary of the diocese and dean of White Trinity Church in ~ a l i n i n . The column of walkers stretched for hundreds of meters. Each day the participants covered from 30 to 40 kilometers.

Archimandrite Victor Oleinik, 47, secretary of the diocese and books and talking to people who have been to the Soviet dean of White Trinity Church in Kalininr I think my participation Union. in the Soviet-American Peace Walk symbolizes the Russian OrI think the struggle for peace is a very sincere one, and I feel thodox Church's attitude toward the most important issue of the American-Soviet walk from Leningrad to Moscow was a our time-the suwiva! of humankind and the curbing of nuclear very big success. We have made hundreds of friends. weapons. I met a lonely man alongside the Moscow-LeninAt one po~nt Our church has always stood for peace, On June 22, 1941, grad Highway and shook his hand. He began to cry, so I put my when nazF Germany treacherously attacked our country, the arm around him with a gentle smile and he put his head on my head of the Russian Orthodox Church appealed to believers to shoulder. Then I started crying too. For a few moments we protect peace against the brown plague. Mow again the threat looked at each other and smiled. Then I said Good-by to him of war hovers over humankind. When I heard about the peace with a wave of my hand and continued the long journey to
walk, I approached His Holiness Alexei, Metropolitan of Kalinin and Kashrn and a member of our loca! peace committee, requesting permission to participate. Not only did he give me hfs blessing, but he arranged a reception at the diocese for the their quesparticipants. At the reception we talked. answe~ed tions and described how we are preparing to celebrate the 1000th anniversary of Christianity in Russia, which will be observed next year. Mexico; I've learned about the humani?y of the people here, that there are good and bad in all societies and that there is no right or wrong for everyone-simply what is and what works for each individual. I wanted to participate in the walk because I think we must struggle for peace. Nothing I can do is more important. I consider our walk to be successful collectively and for me personally. I have made friends and built bridges. Moscow. When I get back to the US.. I'll do my best to break down the misunderstanding that exists between our nations.

Paata Surguladze, 29, a history scholar at Tbilisi State University, Soviet Georgia: It's hard to describe how happy I was to

Liane Adams, 46. a graduate student from Albuquerque, New Second World War. Her father corresponded with his relatives
until his death in 1959. Kurau still has the letters he received from his native Georg~a,and before leaving for the USSR, she sent her cousin in Tbilisi a letter. Was Kurau surprised to see her relatives at the airport in Moscow! The cousin and her husband had come all the way From Tbilisi to meet her. The two women cried with happiness. It was a Scene I will never forget.

meet Rusudan Kurau, a Georgian like myself, who resides in Miami, Florida. She told me about her relatives in the Soviet IJnlon and her father, who went to the United States after the

Edward McMullan, 55, a radio reporter from New Vork City: My

visit to the Soviet Union has aftered my thinking-and therefore my life. I am very grateful to have been able to take part in this Soviet-American adventure, and I know that it is affecting the consciousness of our planet as it is transforming my own. Ta live believing that certain lies are true is perhaps the mast enslaving state imaginable to me. Thankfully, I have taken a major step toward my individual freedom. And I have done so merely by sharing this international peace walk experience with

my Sovigt brothers and sisters. Together we have dispelled the

many misconceptions we have held about each other. No longer will these lies be our reality. And we shall share this good news with the good and peace-loving people of America. The world is a remarkable place-so rich and full. The people of the world are mainly good and kind. There is no real: reason why the world does not work. All that stands in the way of peace and harmony on our planet are the lies we tell and believe about each other. The day has come to change our ways. The time has come to tell the truth about each otherour economic, social and political systems, our true values and fears and goals. The time for thinkers has come. The great experience gained on this walk has further prepared us to think clearly and to act boldly. Let us go out into the world and declare peace and brotherhood and sisterhood.

Ju!ianne Fanning-Halberstdn, 25, a teacher from Washington, D.C.: I have now seen with my own eyes Soviet people, the Soviet land-the cities they have built and the countryside they have left untouched. I have gotten a glimpse of the I~festyle here. Perhaps the most precious and rare opportunity on this visit has been the chance to experience firsthand the reaction of tens of thousands of Soviet people to the first Soviet-American Peace Walk as we traveled from town to town. Even though I have seen only a small portion of this huge nation, I have seen enough to reassess my opinions. I am c~n~illced peace is possible between our countries. Mot just coexistence in an atmosphere of the cold war, but friendship and cooperation. Apprecration not only of what is similar between us, but of our very real differences. We came here and the Soviet people met us here to begin creating that version. I will never forget traveling in the bus and passing people on the roadside who had come to see us. They had flowers in their hands to give us: they had posters and handouts. Then 1 would look at their faces, searching for a sign of disappointment, anger-but there was no trace of it! Nowherel The organizers did an incredible job of coping with the logistical problems. And I 'hope our governments are learning what can be accomplished and how differences can be overcome if Americans and Soviets accept rnutual goals and put them above other concerns. We may infuriare each other, but we can also barn to love and respect each other.
Rafael fimberoff, 22, a college student and farmworker from Santa Rosa, California: I've been in the peace movement since childhood because both of my parents have been active in it. I believe that major governments are headed for the final battle. Every year more bombs; every year more resources diverted That's why from those in need to the worldwide military bu~ldup. I came to the USSR to make peace. I personally cannot enact legislation to reverse the arms race, but I can work to create better relations between our nations, making such legislation more likely. She warm and loving reception by the people of Russia encourages me. 1 was unprepared for the tens of thousands of smiling Soviets who greeted us along our route. This is my first time in the USSR. This journey has inspired me to continue to work toward mutual understanding. Peace will net come overnight. Peace wilr not come of its own H accord. Only through work and patience will peace come.

Yelena Antonova, 22, a student from Moscow: While we were marching, we wrote a song, which we titled "The Bridges of Friendship." The iyrics are in two languages-a verse in Russian followed by a verse in English. We rehearsed the song aboard the buses, during stops and at night when we gathered around a bonfire. We also sang many other songs. I like American country music very much. The peace walk is about the most interesting thing I've taken part in. It helped me to understand so many things. I just think American youth are wonderful-l made so many good friends on the walk. The more we know about each other, the better the chanca for peace.
CharFes Borden, 47, Victorville, California, heavy equipment diesel mechanic: This is my first visit to the Soviet Union, and the

only thing 1 knew about your country befora I came to the USSR for the Soviet-American Peace Walk was what I had
heard throughout my life as an American, through reading