getting there from Na xos

T he payoff for getting to the far-flung Little Cyclades is the peaceable experience of Greek island life as it has existed for centuries. Allow plenty of time to travelyour point of departure is the nearby islands of either Naxos or Amorgosand be prepared to improvise. The season is May through September; weather is hottest in July and Augustas are prices. Except for August, you can usually bargain; consider stated rates as starting prices. Most hotel owners and proprietors of enoikiazomena dhomatia (rented rooms) meet ferries on arrival and brandish photos of their lodgings or stand by minibuses with telltale logos. In high season, however, call ahead to reserve rooms. Bring or buy anti-mosquito tablets and their plug-in burners, and a Greek-English phrase book. Familiarity with the Greek alphabet helps with reading signs, which even for hotels (e) may be in Greek. Each island has one or two public phones; if theyre not out of order, they take prepaid cards (tilekartes). Cell phone reception is sketchy. Part of the charm is the virtual absence of cars, trucks, and buses. Plan hikes for early or late in the day, and stick to pathsoff-trail, thorns and sharp rocks abound. Minor Cyclades is an unrivaled map for trails and sights (Skai map No. 312 from terrainmaps.gr; $16). The many winding lanes not shown on the maps may confuse visitors, as was their intent: They were laid out to thwart invading pirates. A word about etiquette. Nudism is prohibited on town beaches but tolerated on remoter beaches. In town, even shorts and tank tops may draw disapproving stares. As a guest, youre expected to offer greetings firstyia sas! is the simplest salutation. Long gone are the days when seafood was cheap. The priciest fish is barbounia (red mullet), at $65 to $90 a kilo. The more affordable kolios (mackerel) runs $22 a kilo. If you order a shot of ouzo or rakomelo in a bar, squid and octopus mezedhes (hors doeuvres) usually come gratis. Goat, lamb, and veal (locally raised) also figure prominently on menus. Spend a couple of days in Athens before and after sailing the Aegean. The fine St. George Lycabettus Hotel sits above Athens in the chic Kolonaki neighborhood (210-7290711; doubles, $463$695). Flights to Naxos can be unreliable because of strong summer winds. Ferries and hydrofoils are the islands lifelines; check travel times, which vary according to vessel and number of stops, and book passage once in Athens. The country code for Greece is 30. Prices quoted are for the 2011 high season. J. T.
Boats for the Little Cyclades leave from 166-square-mile Naxos. Tickets for same-day travel are available at the harbor from dockside agentsfor instance, from Zas Travel, which also details and books ferries online at zastravel.com (2285023330). Or stay a night at the pleasant Hotel Coronis on the waterfront (22850-22297; doubles, $80$105). The Greek government subsidizes boat fares for small islands, and a ticket on the Express Skopelitis, which serves the Little Cyclades, costs only about $10. Schedules, particularly for hydrofoils, are subject to the weather. Youll need plenty

Donousa

Naxos

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Pano Koufonisi Kato Koufonisi Schinousa Iraklia Amorgos

Four Islets Out in the Blue

of euros, and its best to get them on Naxos. Most hotels in the Little Cyclades accept credit cards, and there are some ATMs, but not reliable ones. Travelers

checks must also be exchanged on Naxos; for instance, at Naxos Tours (22850-23043). I found no place to change them in the Little Cyclades.

Ir aklia
Boats arrive at the tiny sheltered harbor of Agios Georgios. On the hill above town are most room rentals. The sole hotel, the Aiolos, has fine, simply furnished rooms with AC as well as splendid views of nearby islands (22850-71233; doubles, $80$120). Annas Place, just below the hotel, has a variety of spiffy rooms around a garden and an outdoor kitchen (22850-74234; doubles, $70$100). The Psarotaverna Akathi, 30 yards from the beach, serves all sorts of traditional Greek food (22850-71118; entres, $13$20). Right behind it, Periyali is a useful general store that sells beach accessories. Find Taverna Maistrali, up the main road, to enjoy both food and view (22850-71807; entres, $8$13). Livadi Beach is a miles hike from the harbor. Time your walk to stop for a meal or drink on the terrace of Makubas Bar and Restaurant (entres, $8$13). If youd like to head farther afield, ride the bus (except on Sundays) from Agios Georgios to Panagia (Upper Village), a traditional settlement from which its an hours hike down a poorly marked trail to the Cave of St. John (Agios Ioannis), hidden in an isolated ravine over the sea.

Psarotaverna Akathi

Also called Kato Horio, Taverna Maistrali or Lower Village Aiolos Livadi Beach Makubas Bar and Restaurant

Agios Georgios

Secluded, excellent

Livadi

IRAKLIA

Livadi Castle
Hike along road with excellent viewsits possible at times to hitch or take a bus

Astonishing views on this footpath

Panagia
Mt. Papas

Cave of St. John

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KEY
Beach Hotel Restaurant/caf Town Sight

pg

96

f e b r ua ry 2 0 1 1

Maps by Joyce Pendola and Haisam Hussein

Also called Pano Horio, or Upper Village

Donousa
Donousa, farthest from Naxos, attracts the fewest visitors. Boats dock at Stavros, which has no hotels. I rented a room from Antonis Markoulis (69774-62599; doubles, $67), but rooms are also available from Maria Prasinou (6936-175770; doubles, $55$82) and the Taverna Iliovasilema, which has a splendid view of the sea and, of course, a restaurant (22850-51570; doubles, $60$75; entres, $6$27). Dining in Stavros means seaside tavernas such as Kapetan Giorgis, just above the central ferry ticket agency (22850-51867; entres, $6$12). With its stone walls, large selection of liquors, and balcony, Caf Skantzokiros, just above the harbor, is a wonderful place to enjoy a drink at sunset (22850-51880). By the jetty, a map of Donousa (in Greek only) shows the islands few sights. At the clean, clear Spring of Mersini, five miles up a steep winding road from the town beach, youll find rare shade. You might do as I did and hire a taxi for the 20-minute ride up (69721-89488; $9). Then stroll back down, stopping at DONOUSA the nearby church of Agia Sofia, which has gorgeous views of the 1/2 Aegean. 0 Above the spring, MILES in Mersini, Taverna Tzi-Tzi serves meals and a large selection of Greek wines, which run about $25 a bottle Mt. Vardhia (6973-207569; entres, $10$13). The walk back Antonis Wildly beautiful scenic route, but to Stavros, downhill Markouliss rooms very steep ascent from Stavros; best for about an hour, is No sign to hire a bus or go early in the morning a cinch. En route is Maria Prasinous rooms Stavros Kedros, which has a Kapetan Giorgis sand beach, a caf, Taverna Iliovasilema Mersini Caf Skantzokiros and a rough campsite, Spring of Mersini and where you can sip Vernacular church Town Beach a beer and savor the of Agia Sophia Taverna Tzi-Tzi islands most laid-back Kedros atmosphere.

Beach

Hippie beach, very relaxing

Schinousa
Bathers in the know like this least-developed of the Little Cyclades for its many sandy beaches, accessible by reasonably wellsignposted roads and footpaths. Fountana is an especially nice beach. Boats pull in at the port of Mersini, beneath Khora, where most lodgings are found. The at times chaotically managed Grispos Villas sits at the edge of Khora, on a hillside overlooking Tsigouri Beach, and has clean, well-kept rooms with AC, plus a restaurant with a stunning view (22850-71930; doubles, $95$130; half-board supplement, $19). More convenient and better furnished (though without a restaurant) is the Iliovasilema Hotel, two blocks from Khoras main street (22850-71948; doubles, $60$75). The tranquil Galini Pension, at the far edge of Khora, has no air-conditioning, but the rooms catch the breezes (22850-71983; doubles, $115$135). The Vegera Restaurant (pronounced venGHE-ra) serves hearty traditional dishes. If youre interested in paidakia (coal-roasted lamb chops) or certain kinds of fish, stop by in advance to make sure theyre available (22850-74225; entres, $10$13). The pleasantly modish Deli Sweet Bar, with a restaurant on the second floor, is my favorite place for meals and drinks, thanks to its wonderful sea views (22850-74278; entres, $10$12).

PANO KOUFONISI
Best cross-island hiking route

Pori

Caf Pori

Gala Beach (Milk Beach)

Excellent

Pori Beach

Scholio Kapetan Nikolas Milos Bar

Khora

Astrolouloudo Aeolos

Fanos

Finikas
Astrolouloudo (2285074438). The charming caf/bar Scholio, down the street, serves crpes and ice cream, and is run by two affable artists who exhibit their dreamy paintings (22850-71837). Superb isolated beaches abound. From the town beach, walk east along the coastal road. From Finikas beach, take the rough trail up to the main road, which leads to the windswept sands of Pori Beach. The Caf Pori sits just off the sand. The Marigo, an old cutter, makes several runs a day from Khora to Pori, with a stop at Finikasconvenient when youre done walking (6945-042548; roundtrip, $7 per person). Or, for hills, hot sun, and gusty winds, rent a mountain bike from Vartans, on the Finikas road (6973-211829; $7 per person per day). Board the Marigo when it heads south for Kato Koufonisi (round-trip, $8 per person). At the first stop is a caf, which is a short hike to Lakki Beach. At the second stop, Nero Beach, youll find sea urchins, which may be hard to see wear plastic sandals.

Taverna Rementzo Paradise Resort Hotel

Town Beach
Acceptable 0

Atlantida Vartans bike rental

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Filling, inexpensive food; cold beer

Caf/Taverna

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KATO KOUFONISI
Nero Beach

Lakki Beach

Nice and protected

SCHINOUSA
Messaria
Rough, dusty road; not advisable to hike in summer

Koufonisi
Psili Beach Papa Beach Fountana Beach Almyros Beach
The swankest place to stay is the Aeolos Hotel. On high ground over the main village, it has superb air-conditioned rooms, kitchenettes, and satellite TV. Breakfastthe only mealis served poolside (22850-74206; doubles, $107$135). Five minutes toward the sea are the alsodecent Atlantida Hotel (22850-71691; doubles, $107$135) and the Paradise Resort Hotel (22850-72015; doubles, $160). At Taverna Rementzo, above the harbor, the soutsoukakia (fluffy meatballs) and skordalia (a sort of garlic and mashed potato aioli) were enjoyable and filling (22850-74203; entres, $9$13). Oriented toward seafood-loving local folk, the Kapetan Nikolas is simpler; flaky and fine melanouri fish (about $20 a serving) is an alternative to pricey red mullet. Accompany your waiter to the kitchen, select your fish, and watch him weigh it before turning it over to the chef (22850-71690; entres, $9$13). For drinks in an ambience blending ancient and modern Greece, try

Mersini
Iliovasilema Hotel Vegera Grispos Villas

Deli Sweet Bar

Khora
Galini Pension
Occasional gentle surf, depending on winds

Tsigouri Beach

Fine sea and mountain views

Bazeou Beach

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