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Photo by Jennie Connelly

AGA = Grassroots Growth

Chris Stufft

In keeping with the mission of the American Goldfish Association, to promote and grow the goldfish hobby, the board had decided foster the development of regional host clubs, or CHAPTERS. The chapters will develop fellowship and grass roots goldfish promotion on the local level. These AGA chapters will be able to host goldfish shows and will be assisted by the AGA board in doing so. In order to form a chapter, you must meet the following:

AGA Chapter status requirements:

1. Have at least 3 paid members of the AGA. 2. Have one appointed chapter director (by the chapter members themselves, not the AGA board)that will write a chapter report for newsletter at least once a year. And someone in the chapter will publish one article per year in the AGA magazine. 3. Host a show at least once every 3 years. And do a report with pictures to the magazine. Each chapter will be required to appoint a Chapter Director. Contact information for the Chapter Director will be posted on the AGA website and GFK.

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How each individual chapter conducts their business is largely up to them, but the board is available for guidance. Some suggestions include grilling out, shop hops, breeders exchanging stock, or whatever your group decides. As for setting up shows, the AGA will do everything it can to support the host chapter. Once youve created a chapter please feel free to consult with Dan Young or any of the other board members to help you in creating the show youd like to have. In turn the chapter must follow the show rules and guidelines of the organization. If you are interested in forming a local chapter please feel free to post a message on Goldfishkeepers forum and see if any other members in your area would like to help grow the goldfish hobby on a grassroots level.

Ryukin Goldfish (all pictures by the author are of fish in his own collection)
By Billy Tai

History
The history of the Ryukin is somewhat contested. Some believe that it was originally developed in China and further developed in Japan while others consider it a purely Japanese breed. Either way, the history books have it written that the Ryukin arrived in Japan through the Ryukyu Islands, which lies between Taiwan and Japan, in around the 1770s. It is from this region that the Ryukin derives its name. It is also known as the Liukiu Goldfish, Nagasaki Goldfish.

The term ryukin is derived from Ryukyu, the Japanese rendering of the Chinese Liukiu or Loochoo, the name of the extensive group of islands lying between Formosa and the mainland of Japan; and doubtless indicates the origin of this variety or at least the route by which it entered Japan. - Excerpt from Japanese Goldfish, Their Varieties and Cultivation by Hugh M. Smith, circa 1909.

Since that time, the Ryukin has been continuously refined and other forms and colors have been recently developed. The Chinese breeders have been at the forefront of developing most of these new varieties Short-tail Ryukin, Butterfly or Broad-tail Ryukins, all in various new colour forms. Countries like Thailand and Singapore have also started to make steady strides with what is believed to be predominantly Japanese stock. 2| htt ://americangoldfish.org/

The Ryukins of Japanese origin are still some of the best examples of the breed and the current archetype of the fish comes from this example. Surprisingly, the characteristic high hump had only been associated with the breed for perhaps only the last 20-60 years based on available photographic evidence of fish in goldfish publications.

Regardless of where the Ryukins origin, it en joys internationa l interest whe rever it goes. I will endeavor to share some understanding of how the Ryukin has evolved into the multifaceted fish that is currently availa b le an d d iscu ss issu e s sur ro unding t he bre ed s st and ard (s?). I will also ad d re ss how t o care, select, breed and groom these wonderful fish.

Standard
The Japanese and Chinese use criteria or defining characteristics for how to select better fish. Often times, issues with breed conformity become interim standards such as when the Chinese developed the Short-tail and Broad-tail Ryukins in various new color varieties. The heads of these newer varieties often seemed far too rounded or showed signs of head growth. They were invariably created with crosses; the resulting outcrosses infused other features in these fish. These forms may not be acceptable to the Ryukin purest so further refinement is only compelled by market demands. Acceptable standards often become 3 | h t tp : / / a m e r i c a n g o l d f i s h . o r g /

the driving force to manipulate change as the preferences of the masses become entrenched. It is this force that results in fish farmers wanting to improve the heads of these newer varieties. Better fish have started to show up recently. If the masses do not favor these changes, the interim standard does not need to change and new variety is born. I recall a time, when Calico Ryukins with quality humps were rare and this was acceptable at the time. In the West we tend to fuss over what is or should be a standard for a goldfish breed. This standard could be currently achievable or not. Goldfish standards are problematic as they are hard to pin down and even harder to change once they are agreed upon. At current, the British societies are still trying to settle on a precise standard for the Ryukin. The problem stems from this variety having sub-varieties of acceptable finnage and color. In othe r words, there are different varieties all definab le by the term Ryukin. As for the United States, different clubs utilize different methods to judge Ryukins. Many give a general description or a type test and use a point system to assess each fish. As I personally do not show fish in my collection I will leave the standards to each club as there are far too many nuances to explain here.

Current twin tailed Ryukin varieties include: Standard Ryukin also known as Long-finned Ryukin The tail is greater that the body length and can be up to twice the length of the body in some individuals. It is also called the Ribbon tail or Fringe tail (a broad lobed tail which differentiates this fish from the tail of the standard fantail).

Broad-tailed Ryukin also known as Butterfly Ryukin This fish should not be confused with the fish above because it is really a butterfly tailed fish created by Chinese breeders. Tung Hoi Aquarium Co. claims to have introduced this variety in 2003. The dorsal fins on these fish are

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elongated almost like the dorsal of a Veil Tail goldfish. In Japan and Thailand these fish are called Chochokin.

Short-tailed Ryukin All fins are shorter compared to the standard Ryukin (tail is less than the body length); another Chinese variety that has become very popular recently especially in Asia.

Currently single tailed Ryukin varieties include:

Tamasaba A single tailed Ryukin bred only bred in red and white. This fish was developed in
Yamagata Prefecture of Northern Japan. The tail of the Tamasaba is similar to a comet goldfish.

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I am currently working on breeding my own Tamasaba with different coloration such as calico, colored matt colors, and solid red metallic variations (see below).

Ryukins come in the following colors:

red white calico or nacreous (various types - typically with blue/white base with red, orange, black, brown blotches of color the more defined the color without bleeding the better) brown or chocolate blue lavender purple olive or green (wild coloration) including mock metallic black lutino yellow with red eyes albino matt colored matt / pseudo matt any combination of the above

In addition, there are some proprietary names given to certain color schemes. These include names such as:

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Tri-Color (red, white, & black), Ginrin (silvery net like scale blue/grey base with orange patches) Sakura (looks matt with red & white but is actually a calico fish as it has brocaded scales) Apache (red & black) Zebra (orange with black stripes) Red Capped or Tancho (body may be any color but has a distinct red tancho marking on the top of the head) Deer (white fish with partially red scalloped scales) - each scale is red except the outer side which is white.

If I have missed any colors, this fish is probably available in that as well or breeders will be sure to create it in short order. A Ryukin should have a pointed triangular head (zero head growth except in very old individuals) with a pronounced hump that begins right at the base of the head. This is the special characteristic of the Ryukin. This feature is reminiscent of the shape mature male pink salmon take on during their spawning run. Opinions differ on the precise look of the head but I personally prefer heads that are almost flat from the top giving the fish an aggressive look. The head should be no greater than 1/3 of the total body length. The hump should rise sharply from the base of the head in an arching semi-circle shape. The dorsal should attach before the apex and should cover 2/3 of the back. Optimally, the dorsal should be held straight up but some Broad-tail dorsals tend to droop with age. All fins should be paired, symmetrical from both sides, and have no folds or kinks. Contrary to popular belief, the spine of the Ryukin is not humped but straight. Another misconception is that the shoulder/back of the Ryukin is mainly fatty deposits. This is not the case. The dorsal region is entirely made up of muscular tissue. The Ryukin should have a well matched belly making the fish seem almost circular from the side. In some instances, the Ryukins bod y may even b e taller than it is long. Their muscular broad b acks appe ar tear drop shaped from the front or back resembling the keel of a roman helmet in good specimens. A 7| http://americangoldfish.org/

good belly is required for the fish to deport correctly ensuring that the fish has sufficient ballast to balance and swim with grace. The best fish currently available (in my opinion) are Thai Ryukins that have Japanese blood lines. The reason for this is two fold. First, these fish are far less costly to obtain compared to Japanese fish. Second, they not only have the huge humps but also the correct head shape that a Ryukin should have. The Thai fish also have some of the tallest dorsal fins that I have ever seen and they are always held straight up.

I have heard anecdotally that the Japanese breeders send many of their best fish to Thailand and Singapore to grow out and then ship the best fish back to Japan and other wealthy European markets like Germany and the Czech Republic to be sold as Japanese fish.

Viewing
The Ryukin is primarily bred to be viewed from the side making it not as attractive in garden ponds. It is the glass aquarium where the Ryukin truly shines. It is believed that the Chinese developed the Broadtailed and Short-tailed Ryukins to be viewed from either vantage point. They do require lots of swimming space and water due to their size and high metabolic rate so large tanks are required. A 35 US gallon tank would be considered the bare minimum for a single large ryukin with 40-50 gallons being the preferred. I house my breeders in a 180 gallon tank (6 feet long by 2 feet wide by 2 feet tall).

Culling and Grooming

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The Ryukin is not difficult to keep and is generally a very hardy fish. Growing quality fish to standard starts with the selection of good specimens. Good conformity alone does not guarantee show quality adults. They will not develop to their potential if they are not fed properly and in the right amounts. In addition, the maintenance of clean water with zero nitrates and ample swimming space are the keys to success. Experiment with the use of hardy plants and the growth of algae to assist with this. Free swimming Ryukin fry can be fed standard fair for all breeds of goldfish. If you are old-school, you can use hard boiled egg yolk squeezed through a cheese cloth but newly hatched brine shrimp for most breeders is the norm. I have personally used Hikari frozen baby brine shrimp and Hikari First Bites with great success. The Hikari fry food is a powder and can be easily placed in automatic timers for concise regularly timed feedings when you cannot always be around to do it personally. Once off brine shrimp, Ryukins are best fed high-protein pelleted foods to accelerate the growth of the body and improve the hump. Use whatever pellet fits into the fishs mouth and continue to change pellet size as the fish grows for success if you want to maintain and improve the body conformation. Supplement the feedings with frozen blood worms, daphnia (water fleas), mosquito larvae, steamed rice, hulled peas, and various other food stuffs. I normally reduce the protein content of the feed to my adults unless I am trying to condition them for spawning. I use a lot of wheat germ based foods typical of spring and fall feed formulas to ensure that my fish are properly filled out. Water depth for rearing and raising Ryukins should never be too deep as this encourages elongation of the body. I suggest the depth should never exceed two feet. Most of the Chinese and Japanese rearing ponds are wihtin this depth. Ensure that there isnt excessive current generated by filtration as fish forced to swim constantly burn off precious calories that could have gone into growth. Culling takes place as soon as the Fry are free swimming. Remove any fish with obvious deformities. Crooked backs and belly siders are usually the only things to initially look for. Since it takes some time for the tails to show up, I do not start culling for tails until the fish is approximately an inch long. I cull for asymmetrical tails where one lobe is smaller than the other. If the fish shows good body conformation I will not cull for undivided tails until the fish are approximately 1-2 inches in total length. A proper Ryukin tail should be held high (30-45 degrees from the peduncle). The overall spread of tail when viewed from the side should be ideally 90 degrees from the leading ray of the upper lobe and the leading ray of the lower lobe and appear triangular from the back with the lower lobes spread outwards also at 9 | h tt p : / / a m e r i c a n g o l d f i s h . o r g /

approximately 30-45 degrees. Tails that are parallel are not desirable and hinder the ability of the fish to swim properly. The Broad-tail has the most splayed tail and leaves the peduncle with a more horizontal angle so selection will depend on what variety you are working with. I personally strive for what appears to be the tail of a classic Bristol Shubunkin. The lobes of the tails should be broad and not fantail or ribbon-tailed shaped. I believe that fish with these tails are acceptable but are inferior and do not represent the advancements in the breed to a broader lobed fish. Culling is predominately done from the side unless you are looking for divided tails which should be done from above. All fins should be paired, straight, and evenly matched with the exception of the dorsal that should always be held high. Double anal fins are preferred but fish with a single anal is also acceptable as long as its placement is in the centre of the body. The lower lobe of the tail should mask the anal when the fish is viewed from the side. The classic hump of the Ryukin will show up when the fish is approximately 2-3 months old. The hump can be fully developed by the time the fish is only 11/2-2 inches long. I have seen YouTube videos of Ryukins where the fish develops a hump when the fish is fully grown but I do not feel that these are superior quality fish. It just shows that proper grooming makes a huge difference in the outcome of the adult fish. I will usually also cull for head shape at 2-3 months of age. Ryukins should have a pointed head with no mouth deformities. Heads with rounded appearance and mouth deformities can be easily distinguished at this size and discarded. The head should be the shape of an equilateral triangle.

A common flaw with Ryukins is curled operculum. Often it is the membrane of the operculum that curls outward but sometimes the gill cover also curls. If the fish has superb physiology otherwise, you can perform surgery on the fish to correct the problem. Use curved nail scissors to carefully remove the outer part of the gill plate. The gill cover will usually grow back straight with a membrane that lies flat against 10 | h t t p : / / a m e r i c a n g o l d f i s h . o r g /

the fishs body. Make no mistake, this is a flaw and a fish with this deformity should never be used for breeding or sold for breeding stock. Fish with cut gill or part of their operculum missing should be discarded. It is the belief of some in the goldfish community that this genetic flaw is the result of too much inbreeding and an immediate outcross is necessary. Many collectors will only feed sinking pellets but I use both floating and sinking pellets to encourage the fish to forage at all levels. Swim bladder issues are usually, in my experience, directly linked to excessive nitrates. The only exception is periodically when a female Ryukin gets egg bound and will lie either on her side or upside down at the bottom of the tank. I have rarely had fish develop buoyancy issues after I moved to a large water change regimen years ago. I usually perform 90% water changes weekly on all fish over 2 months of age. Fry get 25%-30% water changes every other day.

Breeding
Ryukins are prolific breeders. Male Ryukins are hard chasers and will often damage females if left to spawn naturally in aquaria. If you chose to spawn your fish naturally you can avoid damaging prized females if you are spawning fish in ponds or large aquariums with sufficient space. Hand strip prized fish to avoid injury after the spawning chase has begun. I will only hand spawn after the fish are allowed to chase naturally but I will also allow fish to breed naturally if I am able to keep an eye on them. I usually use the milt of 2-3 males for each female depending on their size. Strip the male first and then the female second making sure to swirl the eggs to ensure that eggs do not clump and stick together. If the eggs clump together they will not develop and will fungus. Here are some pictures of my spawns from the end of last year. The two fish on the right are young Ginrin Ryukins.

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Hardiness
The Ryukin is considered one of the hardiest varieties of goldfish and is the only variety of goldfish known to have possible aggression issues towards other goldfish. I once had a Thai Ryukin that had to be housed alone because he would shred the fins of all the fish in his tank, male or female and he didtnt even show breeding tubercles. Ryukins are winter hardy but in my experience they do not handle extremely cold water well. Most Ryukins will lie motionless on their sides during extreme cold conditions subjecting them to possible septicemia infection during spring. If you chose to house your Ryukins outside, introduce your fish to the pond early in the season to ensure that they have acclimated to the outdoors. Ensure that they have been well fed throughout the season so they have saved up enough fat stores to last them the winter under ice.

Conclusion
The Ryukin is a striking variety that is both robust and beautiful. With the array of finnage options, and color varieties to rival any goldfish, it will appeal to collectors, breeders and those interested in the show bench. It is no coincidence that this breed often wins best in show as compared to other breeds. As luck would have it, it is also a variety that is one of the easier breeds to keep so remains within reach of beginners through to the most advanced and dedicated of hobbyists.

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Photo by Jennie Connelly

Freshwater Filtration: Novel insights and practical considerations

By Stephan Tanner

Introduction To keep fish healthy, two parameters are absolutely essential, water quality and nutrition. The two parameters are also closely connected. Adding food to the aquarium provides the necessary energy for the fish to live and grow but it adds waste to the tank (and with some feeds more than with others, but that is a separate topic). The fish digest the proteins, nucleic acids, carbohydrates, and fats and excrete carbon dioxide and ammonia via the gills, and defecate undigested material that can contain large amounts of energy, sometimes 50% of that of the original food. Fecal matter therefore contains large amount of nitrogen and phosphorous compounds. While the carbon dioxide mostly diffuses into the air, ammonia and other nitrogen compounds and phosphate accumulate in a closed system like a fish tank. Ammonia, phosphate, and carbon dioxide are vital plant nutrients if the tank contains live plants, however, the amounts of nitrogen and phosphate usually exceed the need and their levels increase. High nitrogen and phosphate levels not only promote unwanted algae growth, they rapidly become toxic to the fish,
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invertebrates, and even the plants if they exceed certain levels. At this point, there are two solutions, replace the water and/or filter it. Some systems replace the water continuously and automatically (a flow-through system), so filtration may be unnecessary. However, water has become expensive and sometimes limited. Therefore, in most aquaria a filter is installed to purify the water. I would like to emphasize that I am an advocate of regular water changes no matter how good your filtration is, but a filter reduces the need for continuous water changes and preserves and guarantees the appropriate water quality between changes. There are chemical filtration media such as activated carbon, resins, and zeolithes that absorb nitrate and phosphate but they quickly burn a hole in your wallet since they have to be replaced regularly when they are saturated, and they are not cheap. Chemical additives that bind phosphate, ammonia, and nitrate dont solve the problem because they only temporarily detoxify the compounds. Mechanical filtration is not the primary purpose for an aquarium filter, so the term "filter" is not the best description. The primary purpose is actually biodegradation, which is performed by bacteria and other microorganisms that form a community. They live in the filter and turn it into a bioreactor. The filter is there mainly to provide surface area for these microbes, not to mechanically remove debris from the water. That means the best filters will establish good living conditions for these organisms. Nitrification Nitrification is the biological conversion of ammonia (NH4+) into nitrite (NO2-) and then nitrate (NO3-). Ammonia is the most toxic for fish, nitrite is less toxic, and nitrate is the least toxic. This process requires microbes that live in the presence of oxygen (aerobes). A good biological filter containing these microbes is essential to removing ammonia and nitrite from the aquarium. Since nitrate is the final step in nitrification it can build up in an aquarium and levels over 30 ppm can inhibit growth and cause stress in some aquatic species. There are three ways to get rid of it. The first is to dilute it by performing water changes. The second is to have live plants in the tank since plants will utilize the nitrate. The third is to have microbes (nitrifiers) convert the nitrate to nitrogen gas (N2) in a process called denitrification. The nitrogen gas then dissipates into the air. The process of denitrification requires microbes that live in the absence of oxygen (anaerobes) as will be discussed further below. As mentioned above, food is eventually turned into ammonia (NH4+) by metabolic processes in the fish. It was long thought that ammonia-oxidizing bacteria (AOB) called Nitrosomonas nitrify ammonia into nitrite and in a second step Nitrobacter oxidize nitrite into the less toxic nitrate. However, you may be surprised to learn that recent research published in the journal PLoS One in August 2011 indicates that ammonia-oxidizing archaea (AOA) are actually the dominant
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ammonia-oxidizing microorganisms in freshwater aquarium biofilters (Sauder et al 2011). Archaea used to be called Archaebacteria and grouped together with Eubacteria as Bacteria. Now, Archaea are considered a third domain of life apart from Bacteria and Eukaryota. AOA outnumber AOB in many terrestrial and aquatic environments and Sauder and colleagues (2011) provide the first evidence for the important role of AOA in freshwater aquarium filtration. It appears that AOA adapt to the niche of relatively low ammonia conditions found in freshwater aquaria, while AOB are more common in wastewater or sewage treatment plants with very high ammonia concentrations. It is important to note that most commercially available bacteria starter cultures for aquaria are composed of AOB and not AOA. That means if you want to start a new aquarium, it might be better to squeeze the filter sludge from a established aquarium into the new one to jump start the necessary AOA culture. However, the AOB may serve as a stop-gap until the AOA get established. The exact composition of the filter sludge in well-established filters still remains to be studied in detail and we are just beginning to understand how biofiltration actually works. The reason for that is quite simple: so far technology has not permitted the cultivation of many types of microorganisms in isolation (the different types depend on each other to survive), which makes their individual characterization more difficult. Recent improvements in DNA sequencing technology now permit the characterization of entire communities in one shot, both qualitatively (what types are living there) and quantitatively (how many of each type). This new technology is still quite expensive and only gradually some researchers are starting to focus on the aspects that pertain to the freshwater aquarium hobby. Denitrification Denitrification is the process in which nitrate is reduced to nitrogen gas. This is performed by microbes that use nitrate in place of oxygen for respiration (denitrifiers). These microbes are called anaerobic because they can exist in the absence of oxygen. Some are even killed by oxygen (strict anaerobes). Denitrification can only occur in the absence of oxygen so it was originally thought that this process would not occur in an aquarium. It was thought that since oxygenated water was pulled through the filter medium (undergravel filters, canister filters, sponge filters, etc.), that there was nowhere for anaerobic microbes to live. However, it is now known that microbes grow in communities called biofilms. The inner layers of a biofilm actually lack oxygen because the outer layers of the biofilm use it to respire. Therefore, the inner layers lack oxygen and the microbes there will perform denitrification. The realization of the biofilm concept suggests that even obligate anaerobes exist in the aquarium and the filter media. It is interesting to note that when undergravel filters were very popular, these hobbyists had good success with their fish tanks. The presence of a relatively thick layer of substrate probably enhances the formation of oxygen-depleted pockets that foster the growth of anaerobes. This is another area we have not fully understood and much research remains to be done. Practical considerations
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From the background above we can conclude that the most important component of a filter is the surface for microbes to live on. The question is what and how much. In different types of aquaria (with and without plants, many or few fish, with or without substrate, etc.), different amounts of AOA grow depending on the availability of ammonia. In natural environments, the number of AOA is usually at the upper limit and can barely survive on the available resources, while in the aquarium the levels can vary quickly when food is added to the tank. So the main purpose of the filter is to provide ample microbial biofilms containing both aerobic and anaerobic microbes to consume all of the waste quickly when it appears. Thus, the more surface area the better. However, surface area alone is of no use if the aquarium water (and the waste within) does not contact the microbes. Therefore, only surface area that has a good flow of water going past is going to be useful. You can accomplish this by choosing a material with many holes and capillary passages and a large inflow area. The second important consideration is ease of maintenance. That depends on two factors, how long does the filter media last between rinsing (=maintenance interval) and the time until it needs to be replaced (=lifespan), both of which affect life cycle cost. Obviously, the longer the better in both cases. To compare various filter media I have listed alphabetically the most commonly sold media on the market today. Selection of popular filter materials

Bio balls: easy to rinse, unlimited life, expensive, very low surface area, sludge remains in the filter when lifted out for rinsing. Ceramic rings: easy to rinse, unlimited life, heavy, quite expensive, limited surface area, sludge remains in the filter when lifted out for rinsing. Filter carbon: chemical filter media that absorbs many impurities, expensive, very short useful life (~2 weeks) and high life cycle cost because the useful life span is very short, non-selective removal of many nutrients, not a long-term biofilter media. Filter resins: come in various types for cation or anion exchange or both (amphoteric exchangers), very expensive, needs to be recharged or replaced frequently, not a longterm biofilter media. Gravel: cheap, heavy, hard to rinse, difficult to remove from the filter for rinsing, moderate surface area. Lava rock: cheap, moderate surface area, difficult to rinse, messy, fine particles wear out powerhead rotors, difficult to remove from filter for rinsing. Polyester filter floss and pads: cheap, can be stuffed in almost any filter, difficult to rinse, clogs easily, high life cycle cost because the life span is very short. Not a long-term biofilter media. Poret filter foam: chemically stable, lightweight, long useful life (5-10 years) with the lowest life-cycle cost of any filter media, easy to rinse, very high surface area (1800 sq

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in/quart), does not shrink or clog, can be fit into any space desired, long maintenance intervals (6-24 months). Siporax and other porous sinter glass media: very large surface, very expensive, crushes easily, i.e. short life when rinsed repeatedly, fine particles wear out powerhead rotors, sludge remains in the filter when lifted out for rinsing. Zeolith: absorbs ammonia, nitrates, and other potentially harmful waste products but may also absorb calcium and other nutrients, heavy, expensive, fine particles wear out powerhead rotors, inconsistent quality because it is a natural product.

The perfect lter By considering all the information above, a filter and its material should have the following properties: large outer and inner surface, long maintenance intervals and lifespan, and the ability to provide good conditions for both nitrifiers and denitrifiers. Nature does that in soil layers of wetlands and in riparian zones (Nakasone et al 2003). Riparian (ripa means river bank in Latin) is the interface between land and a river or creek. Thus, by trying to mimic this habitat we can expect superior results to keep our aquarium water in good conditions. The Hamburg Mattenfilter (HMF) was invented several decades ago in Germany. The idea is to set up a vertical wall of Poret filter foam on one end of the tank or across a corner with a little space behind (Figure 1). Jetlifter tubes or small power heads are used to pump water from the open space, over the foam, into the tank. The water then flows passively through the foam pores and gets filtered by the microorganisms that settle there. The filter foam becomes basically a vertical undergravel filter as long as it is large enough and left alone for many months. The latter is absolutely essential since any disturbance will affect the community of both nitrifiers and denitrifiers. Thus, the material needs to be strong enough to stand up for a long time and should not shrink or decay. With an HMF it is still possible to Figure 1: HMF in theory (top) and practice (bottom). Click on the figure for a higher resolution picture occasionally remove it for rinsing without completely taking apart the tank as with an undergravel filter, thus offering ease of maintenance. Moreover, it can be used in tanks that lack substrate, such as importer or breeding setups and growing tanks for fry, thereby essential taking over the function of the missing substrate.
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Poret Foam lter with B&H Jetlifter in Gary Haters sh room - Photo by Gary Hater

While it is sometimes claimed that most of the filtration in an HMF only takes place in the first 1-2 cm (1 inch), the empirical evidence from filter sheets that are 10 cm (4 inches) or thicker shows that thicker sheets provide additional benefits since the accumulation of nitrate is slower. Presumably, this happens because the nitrification first reduces the oxygen levels, which allows more pockets of anaerobes to thrive and denitrification to take place much like in an undergravel filter or in the riparian zone. The volume of the water flowing through the space certainly affects how the community develops. However, it is possible that many anaerobes are facultative anaerobes and thus can adapt back and forth depending on conditions. As a rule of thumb, the higher the flow rate the thicker the foam should be. In summary, freshwater biofiltration with its aspects of nitrification and denitrification is a largely unexplained area of research that we are only beginning to understand. Luckily, even without comprehending all the details, we can imitate nature by equipping the tanks with filtration methods that simulate microhabitats such as found in the riparian zones. The success of the simple HMF method in Europe over the past 25 years is now clearly supported by recent scientific understanding of what is going on in this bioreactor. Disclosure The author is the owner of Swisstropicals LLC, the exclusive importer and distributor for Poret lter foam and B&H Jetlifters in North America. www.swisstropicals.com
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References Nakasone, H, Kuroda, H, Kato, T, and Tabuchi, T (2003). Nitrogen removal from water containing high Sauder LA, Engel K, Stearns JC, Masella AP, Pawliszyn R, et al. (2011) Aquarium Nitrification Revisited:
Thaumarchaeota Are the Dominant Ammonia Oxidizers in Freshwater Aquarium Biofilters. PLoS ONE 6(8): e23281. nitrate nitrogen in a paddy field (wetland). Water Science and Technology , vol. 48, no. 10, pp. 209216.

The Tricolor Metallic

By Gary Hater Photos by Barry Sperling

In 2010 I was at a Koi and Goldfish show in Indianapolis Indiana and bought a Tricolor Metallic (TCM) Ryukin from South West Koi and Goldfish - Mike Weynchenk. The male I brought home continues to breed. I successfully did an outcross to a calico, but the Tricolor Metallic scaling did not appear. Last fall I procured a female TCM from Dandy Orandas.

Male

Female

I have now crossed this LF and broadtail very successfully and I am happy to remove that the specialized scaling does transfer when crossed to another fish of its own scale type. Also it is obvious from counting the offspring that this fish breeds like a classic calico fish. So TCM X
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TCM yields the following ratio, table 1. I t appears that all of the calico will have the special scale type, which is quite unusual. Table 1: Tri Color Metallic X TCM metallic calico matt 25% 50% 25%

At about four weeks, the fish are fairly easy to pick out and easy to select below are the 3 scale types:

Metallic scale type

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Matte scale type

Nacreous /Calico scale type

I feel this sh could quickly become a favorite scale type as the sh are quite attractive.

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The following photos were taken with a macro lenses at very high resolution and them we zoomed in and resized the photo so only the scales. Note at 4.5 week you can see the pigmentation starting to detail in the fry. As mentioned early in the article we hope to create Veiltails with this scale type later in 2013. We hope you enjoy the pictures and the information on this unique scale type. Best regards Gary and Barry!

4.5 week old fry showing pigmentation

Adult scaling close-up

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