Please refer to the full tutorial HERE for step-by-step instructions and pictures.

For the
contrast bottom style pouches, simply cut two pieces of each measurement listed in the chart by the width of the pouch, and sew together using a 1/2" seam allowance. So for the medium size pouch you'll cut two pieces 4.5" tall by 12" wide and two pieces 5.5" tall by 12" wide, thus making the exterior pieces.

Fabrics: The Hello Kitty fabrics from the first post were purchased at fabric.com, seems like Hello Kitty is popping up a lot, so keep your eye open if you're a fan (yip yip!)

The medium size pouch is patchwork using an Umbrella Prints Trimmings pack, if you've never seen their fabrics I suggest you check them out, all handprinted in Australia. Love their basecloth and style.

The small pouch main fabric is handprinted by my friend Leslie who runs Maze & Vale, where she sells her handprinted fabric and goodies. She's hosting a handprinted fabric swap now which is really cool. The bottom contrast band to all the pouches is Robert Kaufman cotton linen in denim purchased at Pink Chalk Fabrics. Love this stuff, it's like a favorite pair of jeans. The yellow fabric (large pouch) is Pure Elements in Empire Yellow by Art Gallery Fabrics, believe me, you need every color.

And last but not least, my zippers all were purchased from Zipit on Etsy from my lovley (and fellow Wisconsinite!) Jennie. She's the coolest, plus her zippers are beautiful!

Happy sewing everyone!!!

You might also like:

Zip on over to A Lemon Squeezy Home today and visit Christie's blog for Purse Week Contest. Today I'm sharing my Scrappy Make-up Pouch Tutorial.

name is melissa and i like to make things.

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shoulder bag tutorial

Here's a rough pattern and guide for making a shoulder bag like one of these, as promised. These are really easy to make, and I always have so much fun choosing fabrics and buttons for them. I have to warn you however that i'm not very good at explaining things in words, so I hope you can understand my general meaning in these directions! Please email me if you need further instruction, and I'll be happy to help! I couldn't work out how to do a PDF file so this is a very basic and d-i-y version of a pattern! As you can see, I've drawn a tiny, rough and very much NOT-to-scale outline of the pattern which you will need to draw to the proper measurements yourself on some tracing paper or a piece of newspaper. It doesn't matter if it's not quite right, as long as it's symmetrical. The entire length of the pattern is 28 inches. This will make a bag that's a good size for your wallet, keys and a few books, but it's easy to make it a bit deeper or the strap a bit longer, if you wish. Just add a couple of extra inches. Umm, and that measurement on the strap should say 18". Sorry about that.

Once you've drawn and cut out your pattern, cut two from your chosen bag fabric, and two from your lining fabric. I usually use recycled fabrics- old curtains, blankets, vintage bits and pieces... but you could use anything that takes your fancy. Something fairly sturdy for the outside works best though. After cutting these out, I also cut a pocket for the inside, I use some of the outer fabric for this, cut into a rectangle about 8" X 6.5". Then I cut a strip measuring 5" X 1.5" to make a loop with which to fasten the bag to a button, if you choose to use this method. You could also make two ties to fasten, or use velcro or a snap fastener. 1. Start with your outer bag pieces. Place right sides together, and sew the seams at each edge, between the *s on the pattern, like this:

2. Then open out the piece so that the seams are at the front and back of the bag. Sew along the bottom seam.

3. Then square off the corners by pinching each one out, then sewing straight across about an inch from the corner's edge. Trim excess.

4. Repeat these steps with the lining pieces, but remember to leave a gap in the bottom seam, for turning inside-out later on.

5. Overlock or zig-zag the top edge of your pocket. Press the edge down about half an inch, and top-stitch. Then press your pocket half an inch all around. Pin to the outside of the lining where you would like it, and stitch it down.

6. Make your loop for the button. Press in both edges of the strip towards the centre, then fold in half and press again. Sew the edges together (this is just like a bias strip.)

7. Now sew the lining and outer pieces together. Place one inside the other, right sides together. Match centre seams, and pin. Insert your loop between the two layers on one side of the bag, so the ends of the loop are sticking out, and pin it securely.

8. Sew about 1/4" from the edge, all along both sides of the bag, right up to the top edges.

9. Now clip like mad around the curved edges, nearly to the seam.

10. Turn the bag right-way-out through the gap in the lining. Now press all around the edges of the bag where you have sewn, so that both layers 'sit' nicely. Trim the tops of the straps so they're even and of equal length.

11. Sew the top of the strap together- at just the outer pieces. Place right sides together, and sew a 1/4" seam. (This is a bit fiddly under the machine, but it's okay.) Press down. Then tuck in the lining pieces at this point and hand-stitch it closed.

9. Press the strap again and if you are happy with everything, top-stitch a 1/4" seam all around the edges of the bag. Hand-sew the gap in the lining closed. And hand-sew a big button on the front of the bag, in such a position so the loop will fit nicely around it.

10. Ta Da! Enjoy your new bag! I'm off to eat this chocolate.

p.s. please email me a picture if you try this out because I'd love to see it! Also, this is my first time doing instructions like these, so please let me know if I need to make corrections. Thanks!

This is the new bag I made to take back to work this term. It took less than an hour from choosing the fabric to dumping my junk in it. In fact this tutorial took waaaayyy longer than the bag ! (the colours are great in real life but the orange doesn't photograph very well - sorry )

This pattern is on a piece of A4 paper so I'm sure you can work it out from that. It needs to be placed in the fold of your fabric as marked.

You will need: Using the pattern piece and cutting on the fold of your fabrics.

2 pieces in your handbag fabric 2 pieces in your lining fabric 2 pieces in wadding or batting to give your bag a bit of body. 1 magnetic purse snap (optional) 2 x 6 1/2 inch squares of fabric for the pocket (optional). 2 strips of fabric 3 inches x approx 29 inches for the strap 1 strip of wadding about 2 1/2 inches by 29 2 large Buttons

Start with the pocket. Place your squares right sides together and sew around 1/4 in ch in from the edge. Leave a gap for turning (maybe 3 inches). Snip off the corners being careful not to cut your stitching. Turn right sides out through the gap. . You might like to iron it. I like to do one line of stitching across what will be the top of the pocket but that is just for looks.

Pin your pocket to the right side of one of your bag linings. Sew around the sides and bottom of your pocket being sure to catch the gap you had for turning in your stitching.

I like to do two lines - looks good and adds a bit of strength too.

Now put your other lining piece right sides together with the pocketed one and sew around the bag, again leaving a turning gap at the bottom.

Take your bag fabric pieces and affix your wadding or batting to the wrong side of each piece (if it is fuseable). You need to sew all these four pieces at the same time. Your fabrics need to be right side together with the wadding on the outer of each. (check out the pic above if it doesn't make sense) Pinning might help stop these from moving too much.

Sew around the sides and base of the bag with a 1/4 inch seam. You may want to clip the corners , this will help your curves be nice and smooth and curvacious. Turn the bag right side out.

Now with the bag right side out- slip it into your lining. (This means you will have the right sides of your lining where the pocket is, against the right sides of the bag.)

Sew around the top opening of the bag.

Turn it all right side out through the gap in the bottom of the lining. Then tuck the lining inside the bag, smoothing it as you go. Pin around the top and topstitch.

This is when I like to add magnetic snaps. Putting your hand inside the bag through the lining gap you can poke your snaps through and affix them. Some people like to put a little circle of cardboard on the inside but just use a scrap of wadding or wadding reinforced with some interfacing.

Then that is it for the bag , you can hand sew or machine sew the gap in the lining closed.

The strap is super easy- Just place your pieces right sides together and sew along the length of the strip on both sides. You could add your wadding at this stage and sew it in but my fabric is a bit thick so it will be hard to turn, so I didn't add it yet.

Turn right sides out so you have a long tube. Then using a safety pin I just thread in a long strip of wadding for body.

Tuck in your ends, either on an angle or straight across and topstitch all around, ,making sure you catch the ends into your sewing.

Sew the strap to the bag - you can do this by hand or machine - add some buttons for decoration and you are done.

Obviously you can jazz this up as much as you want - maybe patchwork some fabric together first, add some trims, super easy and versatile ! Hope you like it!

Boy's Drawstring Backpack from Khaki Pants Tutorial

2.02.2010
If you're stopping over from MADE, thanks for visiting and be sure to take a look around at my other stuff. Let's hear it for the boys!

Have a few old pairs of khaki pants laying around? Maybe even some with a few stains on them? Here's your chance to turn your husband's old khaki pants into a super cool drawstring backpack for your little guy. You'll need: one pair khaki pants (actually enough fabric for the exterior of 2 backpacks) 1/2 yard for lining fabric scraps for front zipper pocket 1/8" cotton cording (approx. 3 yards), I found mine at Home Depot - 45' for under $3, but you can also get cording at your local fabric store. one 8" zipper thread!

Cut your pieces: First, cut your pieces from the khaki pants. Cut across the crotch section (like you're making short shorts). Then cut up the inseam of each leg of your pants. Open up the fabric. Cut two pieces 13" wide by 16" tall. I chose to include the side seam towards the lower half of the fabric, but you can place it wherever works for your particular pair of pants.

From your lining fabric, cut 2 pieces 13" wide by 16" tall. For the zipper portion of the bag cut two pieces 3" tall by 13" wide, two pieces 4.5" tall by 13" wide, and four pieces 2" tall by 4" wide.

Then cut two tabs that will attach the cording to the backpack 2" tall by 4" wide. Fold them in half lengthwise right sides together and sew {1/4" seam allowance}. Turn right side out and press. Set aside. Sew the zipper pocket: (you can omit the zipper and just make this portion a simple patchwork if don't want a zippered pocket or if you really don't like sewing with zippers, but come on, give it a try, it's fun!)

Sandwich your zipper between two of the four small pieces, fabric right sides together. Sew a 1/2" seam being sure not to hit the little metal parts on your zipper. Flip the pieces wrong sides together and iron.

Topstitch with about an 1/8" seam and then again with another line of topstitching about a 1/4" from the first line. Add the same pieces sewn the same way to the other side of the zipper.

Now take the 4.5" tall pieces and sandwich them around the top long edge of the zipper right sides facing together. Sew using a zipper foot using a 1/4" seam allowance. Flip wrong sides together and press. Next take the two 3" tall pieces and sew them to the bottom long edge of the zipper.

Flip wrong sides together and press. Switch back to your regular sewing foot and topstich on both the top and bottom long edges of the zipper using about an 1/8" seam allowance.

Take the top of your assembled pocket piece and press it down about a 1/2 inch. Open up the flap you just pressed (and making sure the bottom of the assembled pocket piece aligns with the bottom of the exterior piece) and sew the pieces together, sewing along that ironed crease.

Fold the pocket piece down and topstitch along the top edge. Baste your pocket piece to the exterior of the bag about a 1/4" from the edge on the two sides and bottom. {Now is a great time to add some detail to the top of your bag such as a freezer paper stencil, applique or even a patch.}

Take the two tabs you made earlier and place them about 1.5" from the bottoms of the bag on either side with the raw edges lining up with the raw edges of the exterior of the bag. Baste.

Then, make two marks on either side of the top of the wrong side of the exterior of the bag. The first mark is 1/2" from the top and the second mark 3/4" from the first mark. You will be leaving a gap in between these two marks -- this will be part of the casing for the drawstrings.

Place your two exterior pieces right sides together. Sew together using a 1/2" seam allowance, leaving the space between your two markings open.

Next, place the lining pieces right sides together and sew using a 1/2" seam allowance leaving a 4-5" opening in the bottom for turning.

Flip the lining piece right side out and place inside the exterior of the bag (right sides facing together). Sew around the top edge of the bag using a 1/2" seam allowance.

Turn bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Sew the opening shut using a small seam allowance. Press the top edge of the bag.

Sew around the top of the bag using about a 5/8" seam allowance (this is making the casing for the drawstrings).

tutorial: recycled reusable sandwich bag

3.25.2010
If you're stopping in from Sew Much Ado, thanks! And don't forget to see all the Go Green month projects on Abby's blog this month!

You'll need:

1 pair men's khaki pants 1/4 yard for lining, or find some scraps (2) 8.5"w x 4" tall pieces of fabric for exterior accent sew in velcro (3/4" wide) thread

Cutting the pieces: Carefully cut the pieces from your khaki pants (you'll want to be sure to include the pocket lining when you cut), the pocket part of the pants will be the front of the bag and the opposite (plain part of khaki pants on the front side of the pant) will be the back. Cut 2 pieces 8.5" x 8.5" from your pants (each pair of pants will yield two sandwich bags) and why not use the leg pieces for some drawstring backpacks while you're at it?! Cut 2 pieces 8.5" x 8.5" from rip-stop nylon (if you want a water resistant lining), or just cotton will work too! Sew on the accent fabric:

Iron down the long side a 1/4" on each piece. Line up the fabric with the bottom of the bag, topstitch along top part of accent fabric. Repeat for backside.

Sew the bag:

Place exterior pieces RIGHT sides together and sew along both sides and bottom.

Repeat for lining fabric.

Turn lining piece right side out and place inside the exterior piece.

Sew around top of sandwich bag leaving a 2-3" opening for turning. Turn right side out through hole. Press.

Topstitch around entire opening of bag. Sewing on the velcro:

Cut a strip of velcro approximately 5.5" long. Pin in place on lining. Sew around all four sides of velcro. Repeat for other side of velcro.

If you want to add a special touch, replace the khaki pants pocket button with a pretty one. You can even personalize them with a freezer paper stencil. Another option would be to skip the accent exterior fabric and grab some fabric markers and let your kids decorate their own bags! Slip in your sandwich, tuck in a little note, add a mint or piece of candy for after lunch and you're set! Yum!

diaper pouch tutorial

5.28.2010
I'm happy to be a part of luvinthemommyhood's baby bonanza today, with a nice little break from all things kitchen! yes, this would be my version of a diaper keeper. I made this one with myself in mind. I just needed to be able to actually see how many diapers I had in the pouch, otherwise I'd get down to one diaper and be on an all-day outing. Not good.

Materials: 1/3 yard linen (you'll have plenty of scraps leftover) fabric scraps cotton webbing 1.5" wide - 8" long velcro (3/4" wide by 1.25") fusible fleece - you could also use cotton batting sewing machine, thread, pins, etc. I was surprised at how quick this project is, so definitely churn some out for friends and family! Cut the pieces:

{pictured above are the materials for the butterfly print version - but you get the idea} From the linen cut 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 5" tall. Also cut 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 10" tall - this will be your lining. From your scraps (and feel free to make these strips patchwork, too) end up with 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 3.5" tall and 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 2" tall for the version shown with the butterfly print. {For the blue version cut 2 pieces 8.5"wide by 3.5" tall of linen and 2 pieces 8.5" wide by 6.5" tall of the blue print - sew these two together and they make up the exterior of the pouch.} Cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece 8.5"wide by 9.5" tall. Make the exterior:

Sew the strips and linen pieces together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance (making two finished pieces 8.5" wide by 9.5" tall). Press seams open. Fuse fleece to WRONG side of both exterior pieces.

Sew on the fuzzy piece of the velcro about two inches down and centered on one of the exterior pieces (this will be the front of the diaper keeper).

With RIGHT sides facing, sew the two exterior pieces together using a 1/2" seam allowance around both sides and bottom.

Pinch the corners together and sew a straight stitch 1" from the point. Do this for both corners. Clip corners. Make the lining:

With RIGHT sides facing, sew the lining together on the sides and bottom, but this time leave a 3" opening at the bottom (this will be for turning later). Box the corners as you did with the exterior. Attach the cotton webbing:

Baste the cotton webbing to the RIGHT side of the exterior piece at the back of the diaper keeper. Another option on this step would be to make a fabric strap. If you do use the cotton webbing I would recommend getting a fairly thin one (mine was from Hancock Fabrics), some webbing is much thicker than others. Assembling the diaper keeper:

With the RIGHT sides facing, slip the exterior into the lining, matching up the top and side seams, pin and sew all the way around the top with a 1/2" seam allowance.

Be sure to tuck the cotton webbing down into the diaper keeper.

Pull the exterior through the opening you left in the lining. Poke out corners.

Sew the opening shut with a very small seam allowance, or sew by hand.

Push the lining into the diaper keeper. Since the lining was a 1/2" taller than the exterior, it'll form a nice border along the top edge of the diaper keeper.

Press and stitch "in the ditch" all around the diaper keeper. Finish the strap: Pull the cotton webbing around to the front and adjust as necessary to line up with the fuzzy part of the velcro.

Turn under the webbing twice and pin on the vecro. Take your time and sew on the hook part of the velcro at the end of the strap.

Fill with 3-4 diapers, travel wipes, and maybe even a tube of diaper cream and you're all set!

the library tote tutorial

8.24.2010
{If you're stopping over from Kojo Designs, welcome!} Here's a fun tote bag project I thunk up (yes, thunk) the other day. Of course there are tons of ways to make a tote bag, but I thought this one was fun and gives you a lot of options no less!

| The Library Tote Tutorial |

Whether you like things scrappy or streamlined, this bag is ready to go when you are. Take it to the library or to the park, it's big enough for all the essentials.

Ready to make one (or a few?!) Materials:

1/2 yard exterior fabric 1/2 yard lining (if you choose to use any) 1/2 yard for straps, or cotton webbing or a handle type you prefer bias tape - handmade or store bought thread, sewing machine water soluble pen

pattern pieces
{1/2" seam allowances throughout, unless indicated differently} Cut and prepare pieces: Cut two pieces from the main pattern piece out of the exterior fabric. Also cute two pieces of the lining fabric if you're using a lining. You don't have to use a lining the way the bag is constructed, but if you want to use a lighter weight fabric on the exterior, you'll probably want to use a lining. Cut two pocket pieces. One of which will be the lining of the pocket. Cut strap pieces: cut two pieces 6" tall by 24-27" long, depending on how long you want your handles to be. Cut reinforcement pieces: these are on the inside of the bag, they can add a decorative or fun touch if you'd like, cut two pieces 3" tall by 13" wide. Iron one long edge of each piece WRONG sides facing by 1/2"

Make Straps:

Take the long strap pieces, fold in half the long ways, and press. Open up, fold raw edges to the center crease and press.

Fold in half again and press.

Sew down the length of the strap with the first row of stitching at 3/8" and the second line of stitching at about 1/8" on each side of the strap. Repeat for other strap. Set aside.

Make pocket: Make these as patchworky as you'd like. (And, sorry, I didn't take pictures of making the pocket, let me know if you need help on this.) Place pocket pieces RIGHT sides together, sew using a 1/2" seam allowance all the way around the edge of the pocket, leaving a 2" opening on the bottom side of the pocket piece. Clip corners and turn right side out through the hole you left at the bottom. Press. Topstitch on the TOP edge of the pocket only. I did two rows of stitching about 1/8" and 1/4" from the top. Set aside. Assemble bag exteriors:

Take your exterior pieces (making sure you've marked the corner darts - those little pizza shaped pieces - on each piece with a water soluble pen) and sew the darts in the corner of each side of the exterior pieces.

Align the two edge dots with fabric RIGHT sides together and stitch along the line to the upper dot of the 'wedge'. Repeat this for both corners for all main bag pieces.

If you're using a lining, take the exterior pieces and place them RIGHT sides together with the lining pieces and pin together. If you're NOT using a lining read on...

Pin the pocket to the front of one exterior piece, making sure it's centered.

Sew pocket onto front of one exterior piece. I used two rows of stitching along the pocket sides and bottom.

Align strap pieces with the raw edges of the top of the bag, spacing them equally from both sides, leaving about 3.5" between the straps (see the tiny little red arrow line above). Be sure not to twist the strap at this point!

Next, align the reinforcement piece with the unfolded edge at the top of the bag.

Pin and sew using a 1/2" seam allowance.

Flip and press so that the WRONG sides are facing.

Topstitch at the top of the bag and again at the bottom of the reinforcement strip. Repeat for other side of bag. Finishing the bag:

Take both assembled exterior pieces and place them WRONG sides facing (or lining RIGHT sides facing if you chose to do a lining).

Baste along both sides and bottom of bag using a 1/2" seam allowance.

Trim seam allowances to about 1/4" from the basting line of stitches.

Next, take your bias tape and sandwich it along the sides and bottom of the tote and sew into place. Be sure to tuck in the raw edges of the tape by folding them under. Sewing on the bias tape can be a bit tedious, especially with thinner bias tapes (I made my bias tape strip 1.75" wide), but just take your time and go slow, this is the part that will really show the quality of your work!

That's it! Fill it with books, sling it on your shoulder and you're off to the library! {Just wanted to add that for the patchwork/scrap type bag, I made my own bias tape with scraps as well as some of the strap piece, the pocket, and the reinforcement pieces. The pocket was made using nine 3.5" squares and sewn using a 1/2" seam allowance.} Terms of use: For personal use only please.

summer madras tote pattern

6.01.2011
[Re-posting this tutorial here in case you missed it, I shared it a couple weeks ago at Grosgrain] So honored that Kathleen asked me to join in on the fun of free pattern month. There has been so many awesome patterns already, and hopefully you'll find this one handy for summer.

I scored lots of madras last week for $2 a yard and couldn't think of a better project than a fun and functional summer tote.

There's always room in your collection for another bag, right?! I hope so.

The best part is that the exterior and lining of the bag is made with 1/2 yard cuts, so I think in total my bag cost me around $8, not to shabby. Plus I won't feel bad kicking it around at the library, ice cream shop, and around town.

With two exterior front pockets my super important stuff won't ever get lost at the bottom of the bag, and this tote is a big one. Materials:

1/2 yard exterior 1/2 yard lining 1/2 yard cotton canvas - used as interfacing cotton webbing (or sometimes called cotton belting) for handles small strip of straight grain double fold bias tape, you can make it yourself with a piece of scrap! size 14 needle Cut: 2 pieces of each exterior, lining, and canvas to 17" wide by16.5" tall. 1 piece of each exterior, lining, and canvas to 17" wide by 9" tall 1 piece for the bias tape 17" wide by 2.5" tall 2 - 24" pieces of cotton webbing [1/2" seam allowance included unless otherwise noted] Prepping the exterior pocket:

Start by making the bias tape strip. You'll need to fold it in half lengthwise WRONG sides facing, open up, turn raw edges to pressed line and press again.

Take the three pocket pieces (exterior, lining, and canvas) and place them WRONG sides facing with the canvas in the middle.

Open up the bias tape, pin along top edge of pocket. Sew along first crease line.

Fold the bias tape over to the back (lining) side of the pocket and sew again close to the edge.

Baste along remaining edges of pocket piece. Set aside. Assembling exterior:

Place one piece of exterior fabric on top of one piece of canvas. Then place the assembled pocket piece exterior facing up on top.

Sew down the middle of the pocket piece, marking a line with a water soluble pen if desired. This creates your divided pocket. You might also want to do a few stitches across the top just to reinforce the pocket.

Now place the remaining exterior piece RIGHT side down, then the remaining canvas piece of top of that. Pin along both sides and bottom edge. Sew along all three edges.

Now stick your hand inside the bag and pinch the bottom corner so that the side and bottom seams are aligned. With your water soluble pen mark a line that is 2" from the tip of the corner, perpendicular to the seam. Sew along that line.

Clip corner. Repeat for remaining corner. Assemble lining:

Place lining pieces RIGHT sides together. Pin. Sew along both sides and bottom leaving a 5" opening along the bottom edge for turning. Again as with the exterior, stick your hand inside the bag and pinch the bottom corner so that the side and bottom seams are aligned. With your water soluble pen mark a line that is 2" from the tip of the corner, perpendicular to the seam. Sew along that line. Clip corner. Repeat for remaining corner. Handles:

Align the raw edges of each handle with the raw edges of the top of the tote. Baste in place so that the handles are 5" apart. Finishing the tote:

Slip the exterior into the lining piece RIGHT sides facing. Sew around top opening of the tote. Turn right side out through the opening you left in the lining. Tuck in raw edges of lining and sew shut using a small seam allowance. Push lining into the exterior and press along the top edge.

Sew two rows of top stitching along the top edge. I suggest using a slightly larger stitch length for top stitching.

fold-over bag tutorial

3.05.2010
Thanks again Bloom for hosting my tutorial yesterday! I've really enjoyed so many of Bloom's topics since I first found their blog. I especially loved the post on handmade gifts for Christmas, it really helped reign me in and made me realize what was most important - spending time with my children.

Now before I get too sappy, here it is: the fold-over bag - a casual and fun spring bag!

Materials needed: 1/2 yard material for exterior (you'll need about 3/4 of a yard if you have a fabric with a

directional print) 1/2 yard material for lining scraps for pocket double fold bias tape (I made my own, but it's really easy to pick some up at the store, too!) about a 1/2 yard of medium weight fusible interfacing 2 yards of cotton webbing (1 1/2" wide) (5) 3/8" grommets the usual sewing tools: rotary cutter/mat, thread, pins, etc. Let's get going! Preparing your material: First cut your exterior and lining fabrics to 14" wide by 22" tall (2 of exterior, 2 of lining). For the pocket, cut a piece of fabric 8.5" wide by 11" tall (iron on your fusible webbing to the wrong side of this pocket piece). You'll need to use a piece of bias tape approximately 8 3/4" long to use for the top of the pocket and about a 32" piece for the top edge of the bag. In both cases my bias tape wasn't actually bias tape (since we're not using it around any curves it isn't necessary) - it was cut straight across the grain.

For the inside pocket: You can adjust this pocket size as you see fit, I wanted it to hold my two most important things - my keys and my cell phone. I also like a nice stiff pocket (that's why I'm using the interfacing - so if you don't care about that you can just omit it).

Fold each side in 1/2 inch and press. Fold entire piece wrong sides together in half and press again.

Attach bias tape to the top of the pocket. Next you'll want to take one piece of your lining fabric that's cut to size and fuse on another piece of interfacing to the back side. (This will help your pocket from ripping away from the lining if you get a little crazy digging in the pocket looking for your rigging cell phone.) I place the top of my pocket about 13" from the top of my bag opening.

Sew pocket in place along both sides and bottom (I'm showing the inside of the lining so you can see how I stitched the pocket in place). You may also choose to divide the pocket by sewing a single line of stitching down the pocket.

For the bag:

Next, take the two exterior pieces and place them right sides together. Pin. With a 1/2" seam allowance sew both sides and bottom of bag together, leaving the top open.

To make the boxed corners place your hand inside the bag corner and press together the two seams making a triangle.

Now measure 1 1/2" from the tip of that triangle and make a mark (I use a pin - but that's kind of a lazy and less precise way to make the line) perpendicular to the seam. Sew along that mark.

Trim tip off leaving a 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat for other corner. Do the same steps above for the lining of the bag.

Assembling the bag:

Place lining into exterior of bag WRONG sides facing together. Align side seams and pin in place.

Take your bias tape and pin in place, aligning raw edges to the raw edges of the top of the bag. Start sewing along the fold about a 1/2" in, leaving a little tail unsewn (we'll take care of this in the next step).

Sew all the way around the top of the bag.

Now, fold in that little tail, that'll leave a nice finished edged when you flip the tape over.

Flip tape over and pin in place, sew close to edge. I had success sewing the bias tape on with the lining side up, but you may want to sew it with the exterior side up since that's the side that you'll be seeing most.

Fold over the top of the bag and press (you can fold it over however far looks good to you, I folded mine down about 6.5" from the top. Looking pretty spiffy now. Attaching the strap: I cut my cotton webbing about 49 inches long, but you can pin your strap on the bag and adjust it to fit how you like it. I wanted a cross-body type strap.

For an added punch of color (or pattern if you wish), take a few small pieces of scrap fabric and make them into double fold bias tape. Sew onto raw edges of cotton webbing - this will cover up the raw edges. My first bag I was able to tuck the webbing underneath to hide the raw edge, but the black webbing was pretty thick - so this was a nice alternative. Pin the strap in place centered on the side seams with a tail of it hanging about 4" down from the top of the fold. Mark where your grommets will be placed, cut the holes through all layers of the fabric, insert grommet, hammer into place (be sure to read the directions on the back of the grommet package for full directions). Place two grommets on each side of bag. {If you don't have grommets, or don't like the look, you can also just sew the straps in place, but it can get a little tricky}. Just be sure to make sure your straps aren't crossed and that they are parallel to the side seam when you go to insert your grommets. Making front tab (this is mostly decorative, but it sort of functions as a pull tab for when you want to open the bag):

Take another piece of scrap fabric 2" wide by 6" long. Fold in long sides 1/4" and press. Fold tab in half with WRONG sides together and press. Tuck under the raw edge about 1/2" at the top and pin in place on bag with this end facing the top of the bag. Sew in place by topstitching all the way around the rectangle and making a square with your stitching where it meets the bag. Attach grommet.

You're done! This can be a really fun and functional bag. I used a home dec weight fabric from ikea for the exterior of this bag, but you could also use a regular quilting weight cotton. You might want to interface it with some medium weight interfacing if you choose to use a regular quilting cotton, unless you want a really 'slouchy' bag. Enjoy! Here's an alternate version I made using slightly different bag measurements, but the same concept:

Terms of use: For personal use only.

Runaround Bag

9.18.2010
This is my latest bag design I've been working on, well, just about forever. Not really, but when I was writing up my fold-over bag tutorial, this was another design I sketched out thinking I would make it my first pattern. So things don't always go as planned, but I'm really happy with the results, and happy that this will be my second pattern!

I'm hoping to have things all wrapped up by this weekend so I can get it ready for sale starting on Monday. I'm calling it the Runaround Bag because I think it's the perfect size for running errands and regular day to day stuff. It'll hold all your goodies, but not so many that your should will feel like it's breaking off!

The pattern includes full size pattern pieces, two pocket options, and a magnetic snap option. I loved making these bags! I'll just show you a few sneak peeks to tease you, have a great weekend!

Runaround Bag Pattern

9.20.2010

PARA TI QUE BUSCAS ESTAR A LA MODA CON ESTILOS MODERNOS, FRESCOS, COMODOS QUE SE ADAPTEN A

CUALQUIER LUGAR Y LOS MAS BELLOS COLORES......

MOD 01

MOD 02

MOD 04 (Tambien en Blanco con letras negras) blanco y Azul

MOD 05 (Tambien en Oscuro)

MOD 06 MOD

MOD 07 08