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lorida’s rivers comprise a tapestry of natural wonders.

F They lend character to the regions through which they


pass. They provide a sense of community to those who
reside along the banks. They offer superb scenery and

FLORIDA’S RIVERS
exciting recreational opportunities. Florida’s rivers played a
key roll in the state’s history, from the Spanish explorations,
through the Seminole Wars, into the modern era. Even their
names—Apalachicola, Caloosahatchee, Ocklawaha,
Suwannee, Withlacoochee—evoke images of the state’s rich
cultural heritage.
This book provides a detailed profile of every signifi-
cant river in the state, from the Miami River of south Florida
to the Perdido River of the western Panhandle; from the tiny
Ichetucknee River to the broad St. Johns. No other source
provides such comprehensive coverage. This book features
more than two hundred color photographs of waterways,
fish, and wildlife. It also includes sixty river-system maps.
Anglers, history buffs, nature enthusiasts, boaters, and oth-
ers will find great value in its contents. It will acquaint the
reader with waterways that so many people depend on, but
so few really know.

Charles Boning is a naturalist and attor-


ney who has a deep appreciation for
Florida’s plants, animals, and history. He
has visited and photographed each of
the rivers described in this book. He
has fished, explored, and paddled many
of these streams. Mr. Boning has over
twenty years of writing experience. He
has written numerous books for the CHARLES R. BONING
national educational market. He is the author and illustrator
of Florida’s Best Fruiting Plants, also published by Pineapple
Press.
$21.95

Front cover photograph of the Econlockhatchee River


Cover design by Charles Boning

Pineapple Press, Inc.


Sarasota, Florida
Florida’s Rivers

Charles R. Boning
Maps and Photographs by the Author

Pineapple Press, Inc.


Sarasota, Florida
Contents

Preface 5
Introduction 7
How to Use this Book 11

Part I–An Overview of Florida’s Rivers 15


Florida’s Freshwater Resources 16 The Preservation of Florida’s Rivers 39
Geologic History 16 Water Management Districts 39
Groundwater 17 Programs and Initiatives 39
Surface Water Features 18 Legal Considerations 40
Types of Rivers 24 Restoration 42
Biological Components 27 Conservation 42

Copyright © 2007 by Charles R. Boning


The Condition of Florida’s Rivers 32
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or
mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, with-
Physical Modifications 32
out permission in writing from the publisher. Water Quality Issues 35
Inquiries should be addressed to: Invasive Exotics 37

Pineapple Press, Inc.


P.O. Box 3889
Sarasota, Florida 34230
Part II–The Rivers 45
www.pineapplepress.com
Western Panhandle 47 Central Panhandle 65
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Big Coldwater Creek 48 Apalachicola River 66
Boning, Charles R. Big Juniper Creek 50 Chipola River 72
Florida’s rivers / Charles R. Boning ; maps and photographs by the author. — 1st ed.
Blackwater River 52 Choctawhatchee River 76
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index. Escambia River 54 Econfina Creek 80
ISBN 978-1-56164-400-1 (pbk. : alk. paper)
1. Rivers—Florida. 2. Stream ecology—Florida. I. Title. Perdido River 58 Holmes Creek 82
GB1225.F6B66 2007 Shoal River 60 Little River 84
551.48’309759—dc22
2007023188 Yellow River 62 New River (Panhandle) 86
First Edition Ochlockonee River 88
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in China
Eastern Panhandle 93 West Central Florida 167
Aucilla River 94 Alafia River 168
Econfina River 96 Anclote River 170
Fenholloway River 98 Crystal River 172
Preface
St. Marks River 100 Hillsborough River 174 Florida’s rivers comprise a tapestry of natural wonders. They support rich ecosystems. They
Sopchoppy River 104 Homosassa River 178 define the landscape and lend character to the regions through which they pass. While devel-
opment has touched many of these waters, others remain unspoiled. A few appear much as they
Wacissa River 106 Weeki Wachee River 180 did to native populations before European contact. Florida’s rivers provide access to some of the
Wakulla River 108 Withlacoochee River (South) 182 most exotic locations in the eastern United States.
Those who seek to escape the pressures of modern life can find tranquility and reflection
within the waters. Those determined to discover the “real Florida” may encounter this lost world
North Central Florida 111 Southwest Florida 187 in fish camps, small towns, and other enclaves along the banks. Those who seek adventure will
find that Florida’s rivers offer delights that surpass any of the short-lived thrills provided by theme
Alapaha River 112 Braden River 188 park attractions. Indeed, anyone who spends time on or around Florida’s rivers is sure to devel-
Ichetucknee River 114 Caloosahatchee River 190 op cherished, lifelong memories.

Santa Fe River 116 Estero River 194


Steinhatchee River 120 Fisheating Creek 196
Suwannee River 122 Horse Creek 198
Waccasassa River 128 Little Manatee River 200
Withlacoochee River (North) 130 Manatee River 202
Myakka River 204
Northeast Florida 133 Peace River 206
Econlockhatchee River 134
Nassau River 136 Southeast Florida 211
Ocklawaha River 138 Kissimmee River 212
Pellicer Creek 142 Loxahatchee River 216
St. Johns River 146 Miami River 220
St. Marys River 156 New River (Broward County) 222
Silver River 160 St. Lucie River 224
Tomoka River 162 St. Sebastian River 228
Wekiva River 164

References and Further Reading 231 Sunset from Hontoon Island on the St. Johns River.

Index 237

5
Introduction

This book invites the reader to embark on sometimes thought of as a river is the
a journey, to follow 60 rivers from source drainage canal. An elaborate network of
to end. It traces the flow of these streams artificial canals transects south Florida.
as they weave through cypress swamps, These waterways are usually straight with
pine-studded hills, and hardwood ham- U-shaped bottoms. They may be naviga-
mocks. It introduces plants and animals ble, they may have a unidirectional cur-
endemic to each. It reveals the fragility rent, and they may support complex
and beauty of waterways that so many ecosystems. However, because they are
people depend on, but that so few people not natural components of the landscape,
really know. they do not qualify as rivers under the def-
This book also takes the reader on a inition provided here.
journey through time. It tracks the history The third type of water feature that is
of Florida’s rivers, from the dawn of the sometimes thought of as a river is the flow-
Paleoindians through the Spanish con- ing marsh or swamp. The most prominent
quest to the present. It traces human example is the Everglades, often referred
efforts to confine and harness these to as the “river of grass.” However,
waters. Finally, this book looks at conser- because such sheet flows lack a defined
vation. It examines efforts to preserve bed or channel, they do not fall within this
Florida’s rivers and return them to their book’s definition of a river.
natural states. Rivers defy simple analysis. They dis-
Every river begins as precipitation. This play some traits associated with living
precipitation may flow across the ground organisms. They grow as they receive
to form rivulets that converge into ever- nourishment from tributaries and other
larger streams. It may also soak into the sources. They consume the land and cre-
ground, to reemerge as springs or seep- ate new land through deposits of sedi-
ages. This fallen water eventually carves a ments. They are sources of energy and
path through the land and discharges into agents of change. They are subject to
an ocean, lake, or other water body. For moods and phases. Rivers may be healthy
purposes of this book, a river is defined as or sick, based on the quality of water
a large natural stream with unidirectional entering the system. If stripped of their nat-
flow that passes through a defined bed or ural components, they can even be killed.
channel. The significance of Florida’s rivers is a
This definition excludes three types of matter of perspective. Early Floridians
waterways that are commonly thought of viewed rivers as rich sources of fish and
as rivers. The first is the coastal lagoon. game, as canoe routes, and as paths of
A summer shower replenishes the headwater marshes of the St. Johns River. Along Florida’s east coast, many lagoons communication. During the state’s eco-
are referred to as “rivers” due to their elon- nomic development, Florida’s rivers were
gate configuration. Such waterways thought of as convenient locations for
include the Amelia River, Banana River, industry, as generators of power, and,
Guana River, Halifax River, Indian River, regrettably, as conveyers of waste. Today,
and Matanzas River. Because coastal most Floridians value rivers as key compo-
lagoons lack a unidirectional current, they nents of the natural environment.
are not considered rivers for the purposes Yet, individual outlooks continue to
of this book. vary. To biologists and naturalists, Florida’s
The second type of waterway that is rivers are corridors of life supporting

7
Artificial waterways, such as the Tamiami Canal, do not qualify as rivers.

Florida’s rivers offer unparalleled opportunities for recreation. Here, Tallahassee-area


teenagers enjoy a dive platform on the Wakulla River.
The Everglades, although not a river, derives its flow from two waterways covered within this
book – the Kissimmee River and Fisheating Creek.

8 INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION 9
diverse plant and animal communities. To
geologists and fossil hunters, rivers offer
crucial role in the development of the
state. They served as avenues of trade and
How to Use This Book
links to the past. To historians, they repre- were plied by steamboats. More recently,
sent avenues of exploration, battlefield the state’s rivers and springs have drawn This book consists of two parts. Part I pro- within this book also drain about 30 per-
markers, and places of settlement. To pad- tourists from around the globe. These vides a general overview of river systems cent of the land area of Georgia and 15
dlers and boaters, they are gateways to waterways continue to contribute to the and some of the forces affecting these sys- percent of the land area of Alabama.
recreation. To anglers, they are a source of state’s image as a verdant, subtropical par- tems. It examines rivers as components of Rivers were selected based on their vol-
bounty and sport. This book attempts to adise. the natural environment. It addresses con- ume, length, biological diversity, and
capture the essence of Florida’s rivers from Florida’s rivers are also a resource cepts such as watersheds, drainage basins, overall signficance. A few were included
each of these perspectives. under pressure. The state’s population has and aquifers. It also looks at Florida’s primarily as a result of their historic
Florida’s rivers have witnessed 25 mil- grown from 3 million in 1950 to 17 mil- rivers within the human context. It assess- import or proximity to population centers.
lion years of evolution and history. lion in 2008. Water consumption has es the physical changes that have been Profiles are 2, 4, 6 or 8 pages in length,
Mastodons, saber-toothed cats, giant soared. If water is withdrawn at a rate wrought in the nearly 500 years since depending on the significance of the
ground sloughs, and giant armadillos faster than it is replenished, rivers will run Ponce de León landed on Florida’s shores. waterway.
once quenched their thirst along the dry, water tables will drop, and salt water Finally, it reviews efforts to protect and This book groups Florida’s rivers
shores. Their teeth and bones lie preserved will seep inland from the coasts and con- restore Florida’s rivers. according to geographic location. Each
in river sediments. Humans have lived taminate underlying groundwater. These Part II contains profiles of 60 rivers regional section covers between 6 and 9
along these waterways for at least 12,000 events have already affected some heavily and large creeks. While this book does not river systems. Coverage moves from west
years. Prior to the arrival of the Spanish, populated areas of the state. Development cover every river in Florida, it addresses to east across the northern part of the
native peoples such as the Timucua, has overtaken land along many rivers. every major river and dozens of smaller state, then drops south to cover the penin-
Apalachees, and Calusas settled along Rivers have been subjected to increased waterways. The river systems covered sula. The specific regions covered are:
river systems. When Hernando de Soto recreational use by boaters, paddlers, within the text drain approximately 55 Western Panhandle, Central Panhandle,
and other Spanish conquistadors ventured tubers, anglers, and others. Water control percent of the land area of the state. Small Eastern Panhandle, North Central Florida,
into the interior of Florida, they found no projects have drastically altered the con- coastal streams, sinks, lakes, and marshes Northeast Florida, West Central Florida,
gold. However, they found riches of a dif- figuration of some streams. Pollution con- provide drainage for the remaining 45 Southwest Florida, and Southeast Florida.
ferent sort—the glittering waters of tinues to plague many systems. Exotic percent of the state. The rivers covered Within each geographic sector, this book
Florida’s springs and rivers. During the plants and animals have multiplied and
1800s and early 1900s, rivers played a have taken over some waterways.

A sandhill crane pair and their offspring


feed beside the Ocklawaha River.

10 INTRODUCTION 11
presents the rivers in alphabetical order. Wild and Scenic River (WSR), and Florida
The introductory pages of each river Wild and Scenic River (FWSR). The final
profile contain a map and a text-box sum- two items show the length of the river and
mary. The 60 river maps encompass sever- the area of the river basin.
al noteworthy features. They portray the For rivers that receive significant input
main channel of the profiled river in dark from springs, this book provides tables of
blue. They show tributaries and down- major springs within each basin. Latitude
stream discharges in medium blue. They and longitude are given in decimals rather
show detached waterways and upstream than in minutes and seconds. Locations
portions of connected waterways in light are approximate and should not be used
blue. The maps provide greater detail in for purposes of navigation. The average
areas immediately adjacent to the profiled discharge rates are displayed in cubic feet
river so as to highlight that waterway. per second (cfs). Discharge rates can vary
While the maps show county borders dramatically with the year and season.
within Florida, they do not show county Therefore, the rates shown should be
borders in adjoining states. To avoid con- viewed only as a general gauge of the
fusion, most boundaries that follow river strength of each spring or spring group.
systems are omitted. The text also follows a specific format.
The text box summary provides a The first section addresses geography and
quick overview of the river. The first item hydrology. It describes the source, route,
shows the type of river, noting whether the major tributaries, and physical features of
river is predominantly alluvial, blackwa- each river. Geographic descriptions begin
ter, coastal, or spring fed. The second item upstream and proceed downstream.
identifies the material lining the riverbed. The second section addresses the role
The third item ranks the ecological condi- of each river in the history of the state and
tion of the river with from 1 to 5 stars. The region. It is organized chronologically,
ranking is derived from criteria such as often beginning with indigenous popula-
water quality, human modification, biodi- tions that inhabited the region. Where
versity, the presence of non-native information is available, this book
species, shoreline development, land use explores the role of each river in the
within the basin, pressures from recre- Seminole Wars and Civil War. In some
ational use, and the amount of trash pres- cases, this book looks at early industries
ent in and along the waterway. The fourth that were associated with the river basin.
item lists the government entity with juris- The third section discusses human
diction over the waterway. Florida’s five impact on each system, including pollu-
water management districts are the tion, development, dams, dredging, and
Northwest Florida Water Management land use. Water quality within each sys-
District (NWFWMD), the Suwannee River tem changes over time and varies with
Water Management District (SRWMD), location. Therefore, any statement regard-
the St. Johns Water Management District ing water quality should be viewed as a
(SJWMD), the Southwest Florida Water general indication, rather than as part of
Management District (SWFWMD) and the any formal ranking system. For more pre-
South Florida Water Management District cise information, readers should consult
(SFWMD). The fifth item shows whether the latest data provided by Florida
the river is the subject of any special gov- Department of Environmental Protection
ernment designations. pursuant to the Clean Water Act.
The categories addressed are The fourth section identifies recre- Several small coastal rivers are not covered in this book. These photographs show (from top to
Outstanding Florida Water (OFW), Canoe ational opportunities afforded by each bottom) the Middle River of Broward County, Spruce Creek of Volusia County, the
Trail (CT), Aquatic Preserve (AP), Federal river. Where appropriate, it describes fish- Pithlachascotee River of Pasco County, and the Imperial River of Lee County.

12 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 13


ing, boating, and activities available on basin. While the text describes species Part I
public land surrounding the river. The text that the casual observer may see, it also
provides general notes on canoeing and focuses on rare and endangered species. An Overview of Florida’s Rivers
kayaking. However, the reader who is The animals and plants listed represent an
considering a paddling excursion should informal sampling, and do not comprise Rivers derive their character from the envi- Third, proximity to the coast influ-
refer to a paddling guide for detailed infor- an inventory. Birds, reptiles, fishes, ronment. They reflect the local topogra- ences the makeup of Florida’s rivers. No
mation concerning access points, routes, bivalves, gastropods, dragonflies, and phy, geology, climate, ground cover, land part of the state is located more than 100
and potential hazards. shoreline plants are treated in some detail. use, and other variables. While Florida’s miles from the Atlantic Ocean or Gulf of
The fifth and final section discusses rivers bear an outward resemblance to Mexico. Rivers that empty into these bod-
plants and animals found within each river rivers in many parts of the nation, they are ies are subject to tidal influence. The
also unique in their physical and biologi- mouths of many rivers give rise to exten-
cal makeup. Most bear the stamp of some sive brackish estuaries. A few rivers flow
or all of the four factors described below. with brackish water as a result of contact
First, the topography of the state is rel- with subsurface salt deposits. Pre-
atively flat. The highest point, Britton Hill dominantly saltwater fishes have infiltrat-
in Walton County, is a mere 345 feet ed many of the state’s freshwater systems.
above sea level. The average elevation is Regular distinctions between salt water
only about 100 feet above sea level. As a and fresh water are therefore blurred.
result, Florida’s rivers do not tumble Finally, Florida’s climate affects the
through steep canyons. They do not hurl character of its rivers. The humid subtrop-
themselves over rocky precipices. ics, which span much of the state, support
Florida’s rivers tend to be quiet, low-gradi- specialized flora and fauna. Many species
ent streams. Most have a gentle current that inhabit Florida’s waterways are
and wander across the coastal plain in endemic only to Florida. Some species are
broad loops. A few exceptions exist. more closely associated with the
Minor rapids appear on sections of Caribbean region than with the North
Econfina Creek, and on the Aucilla, American continent. Irregular rainfall pat-
Hillsborough, and Suwannee Rivers. As a terns cause the state to suffer intermittent
result of the state’s flat landscape, the periods of drought and flood. Tropical
water table approaches the surface in storms and hurricanes serve to compound
many locations and gives rise to vast wet- fluctuations in river levels. Florida’s
lands. Many rivers have extensive inter- unique climate gives rise to unique
faces with these wetlands and are sur- ecosystems. These, in turn, influence the
rounded by cypress swamps and sluggish appearance and physical makeup of
backwaters. Florida’s rivers.
Second, the state’s porous limestone While the foregoing discussion con-
foundation exerts a strong influence on its tains some general precepts, the text that
waterways. Some rivers in north Florida follows provides a more comprehensive
have carved narrow gorges through this overview of Florida’s rivers. It examines
bedrock. Others rise from underground Florida’s rivers as a resource, reviewing
aquifers or disappear into limestone sinks. their geologic history and physical fea-
Florida contains by far the largest number tures. It provides a short history of
of springs of any state in the nation. These drainage projects and other works that
features and many others can be attributed have fundamentally altered the flow of
to the limestone deposits that underlie the these streams. It looks at the pressures
state. This karst landscape, as it is called, is placed on Florida’s rivers by a growing
the subject of additional discussion in the population. Finally, it reviews efforts to
sections that follow. conserve Florida’s freshwater resources.

14 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 15


Florida’s Freshwater Resources Atlantic coast. The surface of the plateau
is covered with a veneer of sand, clay, and
In many respects, Florida’s rivers are a
product of the geologic forces that shaped
recent sediments. This layer ranges from a the state. Their courses often follow
few inches thick to several hundred feet depressions formed by intrusions of the
Florida has vast freshwater features, Over time, deposits of shells, bones, thick. However, at all points, this loose ocean. They carve their way through soft
including 7,700 named lakes, and 1,700 sand, and other sediments rained down material is underlain by a foundation of rock composed of marine sediments.
rivers, creeks, and streams. Significant from the water column above. These sedimentary rock. Because of the relative youth of the land,
rivers and streams encompass over 12,000 deposits formed layers of limestone and While the Florida landscape is rela- Florida’s rivers have not had sufficient
linear miles of waterways. Rainfall in dolomite, and gradually added to the tively flat, it is not featureless. North time to etch deep canyons into the land-
Florida averages 53 inches per year, mak- height of the Floridan Plateau. Eventually, Florida contains a series of uplands, scape. Yet, as will be seen from the discus-
ing it the second wettest state in the a shallow bank formed, trailing from the which comprise the foothills of the sion that follows, they have produced a
nation. This rainfall amounts to an average southeastern tip of the North American Appalachians. These uplands, which profound impact on the land through
of about 150 billion gallons per day. More continent. Coral reefs grew and marine exceed 300 feet in several locations, are which they pass.
than two thirds of this amount is lost to life in the area prospered. divided by a series of river valleys. The
evaporation. The remainder is absorbed As the oceans receded, the uppermost central ridge extends down the spine of Groundwater
into the earth, is consumed by people, portions of the Floridan Plateau were the peninsula. It eventually fades into the While Florida has an abundance of sur-
plants, and animals, or flows over the land exposed. Florida probably first emerged coastal plain west of Lake Okeechobee. face water, most fresh water in the state is
as surface water. from the ocean about 35 million years ago Some of this terrain is surprisingly steep groundwater. This water is stored in huge
In the subsections that follow, this as a chain of low islands. However, the and rugged. Sugarloaf Mountain, in Lake underground reservoirs called aquifers.
book examines the physical characteris- state’s present form did not result from a County, has an elevation of 312 feet. The aquifers occupy cracks, shafts, and
tics of Florida’s rivers. It contains a brief single, gradual drop in ocean levels. Other high ground can be found in con- grottos that riddle the state’s rock under-
review of Florida’s geologic history. It dis- Rather, the peninsula emerged sporadical- nection with the narrow coastal ridge that pinnings. Florida’s aquifers contain over a
cusses groundwater and surface water fea- ly over the course of millions of years. parallels the east coast. quadrillion gallons of fresh water.
tures that are common to the state. It then During some periods only the highest
offers an approach for classifying Florida’s points showed above the water. By con-
rivers. Finally, this chapter provides a brief trast, at the end of the last ice age, about
discussion of the plants and animals that 18,000 years ago, the land area of Florida
inhabit Florida’s rivers. was twice its present size.
Over the last 25 million years, global
Geologic History temperature cycles caused the ocean to
The deep-rock foundation beneath Florida advance and recede about 25 times. On
was once attached to the super-continent each occasion the water left its mark on
Pangaea. It was closely associated with the land. Evidence of these rises and falls
the land mass that would eventually in sea level can be seen in the form of
become the continent of Africa. About multiple dune lines paralleling the coast,
210 million years ago, Pangaea split into exposed barrier islands, underground salt
two major continents. Gondwana was deposits, and elongated depressions that
composed of the land that would eventu- were formerly coastal lagoons. Further
ally become Africa, South America, evidence of past incursions by the ocean
Australia, and Antarctica. Laurasia was can be found in the form of shells, shark
composed of the land that would eventu- teeth, and marine fossils that are present
ally form Europe, North America, and in many areas of the state.
Asia. As Laurasia drew away from The Floridan Plateau covers an area
Gondwana, it dragged with it an under- more than twice as large as the area of
water shelf—the Floridan Plateau. The present-day Florida. It extends out well
Floridan Plateau remained attached to the beyond the coastline, gradually falling
North American plate as it slid to the away in the Gulf of Mexico and Florida
Not all of Florida is flat. These central Panhandle hills lie within the Econfina Creek watershed.
northwest. Bay, dropping off more abruptly along the

16 Florida’s Freshwater Resources 17


Three major aquifers are located in filled tunnels, passages, and pockets. When assessed in terms of discharge, feet of water per second. More than a
Florida. The largest of these is the Floridan Karst formations often give rise to not a single river in Florida ranks among third of the first magnitude springs within
Aquifer. It stretches from South Carolina, extensive cave systems, such as those in the largest 25 rivers in North America. the United States are found in Florida.
through coastal Georgia, and across virtu- Arkansas, Kentucky, and Virginia. Nevertheless, six major rivers exist within Second magnitude springs have a dis-
ally the entire state of Florida. In some However, in Florida most of these cave the state. These are the Apalachicola, charge rate of between 10 and 100 cubic
locations it is near the surface. In other systems are inaccessible as a result of the Choctawatchee, Escambia, Kissimmee, feet of water per second. The ranking sys-
locations it descends to hundreds of feet high water table. Other features such as Suwannee, and St. Johns. Each of these tem descends all the way to eighth magni-
below the surface. The Biscayne Aquifer is sinkholes, river sinks, river rises, depres- rivers drains a basin that exceeds 3,000 tude springs, which have a discharge rate
located in Miami-Dade and Broward sion ponds and lakes, and spring systems square miles. Florida has a dozen medium of less than 1 pint per minute. New
Counties. A sand and gravel aquifer occu- owe their existence to Florida’s karst land- rivers. These are the Alapaha, Caloos- springs are still being discovered, as some
pies portions of the western panhandle. scape. ahatchee, Chipola, Ochlockonee, Peace, vents are located within riverbeds or in
The aquifers are recharged by rainfall. The Perdido, St. Marys, Santa Fe, north With- other obscure locations.
aquifers lose water through seepage, Surface Water Features lacoochee, south Withlacoochee, and At the time of European contact, wet-
spring discharges, and human with- A watershed is a land area that drains into Yellow. Each drains a basin with an area of lands covered about two-thirds of the
drawals. In some locations, water flows a water body. Every portion of the state is 1,000 to 3,000 miles. The remaining sys- Florida peninsula. Today, well over half of
quickly through broad underground chan- part of a watershed. Every person living in tems covered within this book are relative- these wetlands have disappeared. Most
nels. In other areas, groundwater may Florida lives within a watershed. A water- ly small and drain areas of less than 1,000 have been drained to make way for devel-
creep along at only a few inches per year. shed consists of the land surface from square miles. opment and agriculture. Nevertheless,
A considerable volume of water enters which runoff occurs, surface water, and Several other surface water features wetlands still make up a significant per-
Florida though underground flows from groundwater. Within a watershed, surface may be linked with or may give rise to centage of the state’s land area. The
Georgia and Alabama. Curiously, a hydro- water and groundwater may be linked rivers. As indicated above, in Florida, a Wetlands Protection Act of 1984 (Section
logic divide bisects the state. North of this through springs, seepages, sinkholes, number of rivers originate with or receive 403.91, Florida Statutes) and various fed-
divide, Florida’s groundwater is linked to depressions, and recharge fields. While significant input from springs. A spring is eral laws have drastically slowed wetlands
that of the rest of the continent. However, groundwater often flows in the same formed by water that wells up through a destruction over recent years. Wetlands
south of this divide, all groundwater direction as surface water, this is not gap or vent in the limestone bed that con- can be subdivided into numerous cate-
comes from local precipitation and does always the case. Divides separate water- fines the aquifer. Springs are ranked in gories, a few of which are described
not mix with that of other states. The line sheds from one another. These divides terms of size. First magnitude springs have below.
making up this divide stretches from the usually consist of low ridges that shed a discharge rate of more than 100 cubic Cypress swamps are one of the most
Cedar Key area, on the west coast to just water in opposite directions. However, in
south of Daytona Beach on the east coast. Florida, the edges of watersheds are indis-
The aquifers, and many other water tinct as a result of the state’s relatively flat
features common to Florida, can be attrib- topography.
Ultra-clear water wells
uted to the state’s karst landscape. Karst A river drainage basin consists of the up from many of
refers to a region resting on a porous layer river and all tributaries, springs, flows, Florida’s spring vents.
of sedimentary rock. As indicated in the seepages, and land areas that contribute
section on geologic history, limestone is a water to its flow. For example, the St.
sedimentary rock composed of compact- Johns drainage system includes the St.
ed shells, marine organisms, and silt. It is Johns River, and three large tributaries that
the dominant type of rock found in Florida also qualify as rivers. It also includes
and is present throughout the state. about a dozen large creeks and springs,
Rainwater is typically slightly acidic. more than 20 large lakes, flows, swamps,
As this water flows across the land it fil- marshes, and dozens of minor creeks.
ters through decaying plant material, While all river drainage basins qualify as
which further raises its acidity. When watersheds, not all watersheds comprise
this same water percolates down river drainage basins. Some watersheds
through the soil and into the limestone lack any defined channel. They may
bedrock it slowly dissolves the rock, encompass coastal regions, sheet flows, or
forming nooks and crannies. Over time, areas that eventually drain into the
this process has created a maze of water- aquifer.

18 Florida’s Freshwater Resources Florida’s Freshwater Resources 19


common types of wetlands in Florida. tions of decaying plant matter. While bogs
They are found in many regions of the are most frequent in northern states, a few
state and often form part of river flood are present in north Florida. Water may
plains. The water in cypress swamps tends accumulate from rainfall or seepage.
to be tea-colored, although this is not the Portions of the Okefenokee and Pinhook
case where such swamps receive regular Swamps, along the Georgia-Florida bor-
infusions of spring water. Rivers that flow der, fall within this category. The
through extensive cypress swamps Suwannee, St. Marys and Perdido Rivers
include the Aucilla, Econlockhatchee, derive some of their initial flow from bogs
Fisheating Creek, Hillsborough, Ochlock- and bog seepages.
onee, Sopchoppy, and southern With- River backwaters, sloughs, and oxbow
lacoochee. lakes also require mention. River backwa-
Freshwater marshes can occur along ters are stationary or near-stationary bod-
the boundaries of rivers, in flatwood ies of water that are loosely connected to
depressions, or along lakeshores. They the main channel or that are only con-
contain emergent vegetation, shallow nected to the main channel during periods
water, and abundant wildlife. Several of high water. Extensive backwaters exist
Florida rivers derive part of their flow from along the Escambia, Choctawhatchee,
freshwater marshes, including the and Ochlockonee Rivers. Some sloughs
Econfina, Fenholloway, Steinhatchee, are connected to river systems, while oth-
Suwannee and Loxahatchee. Extensive ers form in isolated depressions. Sloughs
freshwater marshes also exist around the are stagnant, poorly oxygenated bodies of
headwaters of the St. Johns River and water that flow only during wet condi-
around some tributaries of the Kissimmee tions. Oxbow lakes are found in river
River. flood plains. They form over time, when a
A bog is an area of shallow, acidic river finds a shorter course; when it aban-
water, typically colonized by sphagnum dons a loop or bend through which it for-
moss. It usually contains heavy concentra- merly passed.

The cypress
swamp is a
common fea-
ture of the
Florida land-
scape. Cypress
is a deciduous
conifer that
can live for
hundreds of
The springs shown here, from top to bottom
years and that
and from left to right, are the Blue Hole
can attain a
Spring of Jackson County, Weeki Wachee
spectacular
Spring of Hernando County, Wakulla Spring
size and girth.
of Wakulla County, Lithia Springs of
Unfortunately,
Hillsborough County, and Homosassa Spring
most of the old
of Citrus County.
giants were
felled for lum-
ber in the late
1800s and
early 1900s.

20 Florida’s Freshwater Resources Florida’s Freshwater Resources 21


Oysters and other shellfish can be found in estuaries around river mouths.

The freshwater marsh teams with life. The marsh shown here lies within the Peace River basin.

A few rivers of the Florida peninsula, stant influx of nutrient-rich water, they
including the St. Johns, Kissimmee, and often support rich concentrations of shell-
Ocklawaha, begin as a chain of lakes. fish and other marine organisms. They rep-
Lakes in Florida tend to be shallow and resent critical breeding and feeding areas
tend to form over depressions in the for many saltwater fishes. Major estuaries
underlying limestone. Most have saucer- occur at the mouths of the Escambia,
shaped bottoms composed of sand or silt. Choctawhatchee, Apalachicola, and
Shorelines are typically lined with exotic Suwannee Rivers, in Tampa Bay and
hydrilla and various types of emergent Charlotte Harbor, and in Florida Bay along
vegetation. The water is often fertile, espe- the fringe of the Everglades.
cially where surrounding land has been Farther offshore, such estuaries can
farmed or developed. grade into seagrass beds and marine
When reviewing surface water fea- meadows. Closer to shore, they may give
tures, it is also necessary to examine those rise to tidal marshes or mangrove swamps.
features present around river mouths. Tidal marshes are prevalent along many
Estuaries form in inlets, lagoons, and bays, areas of the northern Gulf coast. Extensive
where the fresh water from rivers mixes tidal marshes exist in the Big Bend region.
with salt water from the Atlantic Ocean or They are also common in several areas of
Gulf of Mexico. The salinity in such areas northeast Florida, such as around the
can vary dramatically with the tides and mouths of the St. Marys River, Nassau This salt marsh is located along the Carrabelle River in Franklin County.
seasons. Because estuaries receive a con- River, and Pellicer Creek. In most loca-

22 Florida’s Freshwater Resources Florida’s Freshwater Resources 23


tions the most common substrate is mud. from one type to another as they flow
Cordgrass and needlerush are the domi- through different geographic regions.
nant plant species. Notable animals Nevertheless, all fall within one or several
include the fiddler crab, killifish, mullet, of the five general categories set forth
mosquitofish, and mosquito. below.
Mangrove swamps line many estuarine Most Florida rivers are predominantly
shorelines along the peninsula. Mangroves blackwater streams. Blackwater streams
are quasi-tropical in habit and can tolerate are characterized by tea-colored water.
only a few degrees of frost. Such swamps This water appears black when viewed
may extend many miles inland along the from a distance or when it reaches a depth
banks of coastal rivers. The red mangrove of 1 to 3 feet. Blackwater streams tend to
can grow within the tidal zone and can tol- have high concentrations of organic car-
erate high salt concentrations. It uses prop bon. They also tend to be somewhat
roots to anchor itself into mud or other sub- acidic. The water is stained, not because it
strates. The black mangrove occurs slightly is dirty, but because it has absorbed tan-
further back from the edge of the water. It nins and flecks of organic matter from the
puts out thousands of pencil-like, upright surrounding landscape. Blackwater
roots called pneumatophores. Mangrove streams often drain areas dominated by
ecosystems provide shelter for a multitude of cypress, cedar, and other conifers. They
juvenile crustaceans and fishes. support little submerged vegetation
because their dark waters reduce the
Types of Rivers amount of sunlight that can reach the bot-
Florida’s rivers do not lend themselves to tom.
neat categorization. Many have character- Spring-fed rivers are characterized by
istics typical of several types. Some shift extremely clear, alkaline water and heavy
Blackwater streams, such as this Polk County creek, are common throughout the state.

aquatic vegetation. More than 700 springs dark, tannin-stained water from swamps
exist within Florida. Most are found in and seepages. Whatever their source,
north Florida, from the central Panhandle these rivers are characterized by high
to the northern suburbs of Orlando. A few limestone banks and beds lined with lime-
rivers derive most of their flow from an stone, limestone rubble, scour holes, and
individual spring or spring group. Such gravel bars. The Aucilla, Chipola, Santa
rivers are rare outside Florida. Spring-fed Fe, Sopchoppy, and Suwannee Rivers fall
In peninsular Florida, rivers described in this book include the within this category.
salt marshes are Chipola, Crystal, Homosassa, Silver, Alluvial rivers—which are the pre-
replaced by mangrove Wakulla, Weeki Wachee, and Wekiva dominant type of river in many parts of the
swamps. Prop roots of Rivers. Many other rivers, including the country—are relatively rare in Florida.
the red mangrove, Choctawhatchee, Ocklawaha, St. Johns, Nevertheless, some of the state’s largest
shown here, provide St. Marks, Santa Fe, Suwannee, northern rivers, such the Apalachicola and
shelter for juvenile
Withlacoochee, and southern With- Choctawatchee, are alluvial in character.
fishes and marine
invertebrates.
lacoochee receive significant input from Others, such as the Yellow, Escambia, and
springs. Ochlockonee possess alluvial characteris-
The limestone-rimmed rivers of north tics. Alluvial rivers are generally relegated
Florida are largely calcareous streams. to the Panhandle. They carry a high sedi-
They typically flow with alkaline water ment load, run through a broad flood
and derive some or most of their flow from plain, and have broad deltas or marshes
springs. However, they may also flow with occurring around the river mouth.

24 Florida’s Freshwater Resources Florida’s Freshwater Resources 25


Florida’s Rivers
by
Charles R. Boning

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