Easy 1940's Crochet Shrug

Posted by Tina "Crochet" Calabrese Materials: Columbia Princess Yarn (1 ounce ball)10 Balls. 1 Composition Crochet Hook-Standard Size 6. 6 inch Pattern Stitch: Multiple of 6 sts plus 4. Make Chain Row 1: 1 Dc in 4th ch from hook, * work knot st (draw up ch on hook for inch loop, draw yarn thru loop and work 1 sc in back strand of loop), skip 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch, work knot st as before, skip 2 ch., 1 puff st. (yarn over and draw up a loop 3 times ) in next st, yo and thru all loops on hook, ch 1, repeat from * across, ch 1, turn. Row 2: 1 sc in last puff st * knot st, 1 puff st in next sc knot st 1 sc in next puff st, repeat from * across, ending 1 sc in last st, ch 3, turn. Row 3: 1 Puff st in last sc * knot st, 1 sc in puff st, knot st, 1 puff st in next sc, repeat from * across ch 1, turn. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern. SHRUG: Ch 94, work in pattern st for 50 inches, ending with row 3 of pattern st, ch 1, then work Border at side as follows: Row 1: * 1 sc in puff st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 loops, repeat from * across side edge, ch 1, turn. Rows 2 & 3: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn, ending row 3, ch 3, turn. Row 4: 1 Tr in each st, ch 1, turn. Rows 5 - 6: 1 sc in each st, ch 1, turn. Row 7: (Knot st edge) Work 1 sc in first st, * draw up a 1 inch loop, draw yarn thru loop, 1 sc thru back

strand of loop st, draw up a 1 inch loop, draw yarn thru loop, work 1 sc thru back strand of loop, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next sc, repeat from * across row. Work Border and knot st edge at other side of Shrug. CUFF: Row 1: Work 5 sc across end of side Border, 1 sc in puff st, 1 sc in next sc (between puff sts) repeat from * across, ending 5 sc across Border, (about 40 sts across row). Now repeat from Row 2 of Side Border, ending with Row 7. Work other Cuff to correspond. Sew Cuff seams.

1950's Women's Shrug Small Medium Large Sizes

Materials Required: AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY "DAWN" NYLON or NYLON POMPADOUR, or; "DAWN" BABY YARN; 9 (9, 10) ounces Buttercup or color of your choice. 1 1/2 yds. 2 inch satin ribbon. Plastic crochet hook size E. Gauge: 2 patterns =1 inch Directions are given for small size. Medium and large sizes are given in parentheses ( ). 1st Row: Starting at lower edge of back, chain (ch) 102 (108, 114) about 141/2 ( 15 1/2 16 1/2 ) inches, then * draw up a 3/8 inch loop on hook, yarn over and pull through loop forming a ch stitch (st), single crochet (sc) through single loop of st (single knot st), repeat from * once (double knot st), skip 2 sts of ch, sc in next st, * work a single knot st, skip 2 sts of ch, sc in next st, repeat from * across row, then work a double knot st to turn row. 2nd Row: Sc through the 2 top loops of 1st single knot st. * single knot st, sc through the 2 top loops of next knot st (pattern), repeat from * across row working last sc in 1st half of double knot st, work a double knot st to turn row. Always work a double knot st to turn each row, all other knot sts are single knot sts. 3rd & 4th Rows: Repeat the 2nd row twice. 5th Row: Sc in same space with double knot st (an increase), * single knot st, sc through 2 top loops of next knot st, repeat from * across row increasing 1 knot st at end of row (to increase at end of row: work a single knot st, sc in sc between last single knot st and double knot st, work a single knot st, sc in 1st loop of double knot st). Work a double knot st to turn row. 6th & 7th Rows: Work even in pattern. Repeat the last 3 rows 4 times, then ch 73 (79, 85) for sleeve, drop yarn. Attach another length of yarn at opposite side, ch 71 (77, 83), cut yarn.

Pick up dropped yarn and work in pattern across ch same as 1st row, 24 (26, 28) patterns on ch, then work in pattern across Back and other ch, 92 (98, 104) patterns, work a double knot st to turn. Work even in pattern until work measures 9 1/2 (9 1/2, 10) inches at cuff edge. Next Row: Work 40 (43, 45) patterns, then work a double knot st to turn. * * Work 4 rows even in pattern. Next Row: Increase 1 pattern at neck edge. Work 1 row even. Repeat the last 2 rows once, then ch 13 (13, 16) for front of neck, turn. Next Row: Work a double knot st, skip 2 sts of ch, sc in next st, * single knot st, skip 2 sts of ch, sc in next st, repeat from * 2 (2, 3) times, single knot st, skip 1 st of ch, sc in next knot st, then work even in pattern across row, turn. Work even on 46 (49, 5 2) patterns for 7 (7,7) inches from front of neck ending at front edge. Next Row: Work 22 (23, 24) knot sts, turn, leave remainder of row free for sleeve. Work 1 row even, ch 1, turn. Next Row: Decrease 1 pattern at beginning and end of row working a single knot st at beginning of decreasing rows. Work 2 rows even. Repeat the last 3 rows 4 more times, then work 2 more rows even, cut yarn. Right Front: Skip 11 (11, 13) knot sts at neck, attach yarn in next st and work 40 (43, 45) knot sts across row, work a double knot st to turn. Repeat from * * once, but working 3 rows even at beginning instead of 4 rows. Sew underarm and sleeve seams. Attach yarn at seam, work a row of sc around lower edge of sleeve working 1 sc in every other row, about 38 (40, 42) sc or to fit around arm, join in 1st sc. Next Row: Ch 1 and work 1 sc in each sc, join, cut yarn. Cuff: Ch 19, sc in 2nd st from hook, 1 sc in each remaining st of ch, ch 1, turn. 2nd Row: Working in back loop of sts ,work 1 sc in each sc, ch 1, turn. Repeat the last row until cuff measures 7 1/4 (7 1/2, 8) inches or until it fits lower edge of sleeve. Sew to lower edge of sleeve. Sew cuff seam. Turn cuff up half way. Front Ribbing: Ch 10, sc in 2nd st from hook, 1 sc in each remaining st of ch, ch 1, turn. 2nd Row: Working in back loop of sts only, work 1 sc in each sc, ch 1, turn. Repeat the last row until piece measures 42 (43, 44) inches, cut yarn. Attach yarn at Left Front of neck and work a row of sc down Left Front, around lower edge and up Right Front, cut yarn. Sew ribbing in position on each Front and on lower edge of Back easing in the fullness across Back. Neck Band: Attach yarn at Front of Neck and work 1 sc in each sc of ribbing, then work 46 (48, 50) sc around Neck and 1 sc in each sc of ribbing, turn. Next Row: Ch 1 and working through both loops of sts, work 1 sc in each sc. Repeat the last row 3 times, cut yarn. Finish with bow and ties as illustrated.

Beatrice shrug (I have it in .pdf)

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Touch

Shown in size X-Small/Small.

SIZES Directions are for womens size X-Small/Small. Changes for size Medium/Large are in parentheses. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust 30(34). Length 13 1/2 (Including bottom band). Note: Even though the actual bust measurement given seems small, due to the dolman sleeves and the open front, the fit of this garment is very forgiving. MATERIALS BERROCO TOUCHE (50 grs), 3(4) hanks each #7914 Lemon Meringue (A) and #7970 Nectar (B) and 2(3) hanks each #7930 Green Tea (C) and #7920 Persimmon (D). Crochet hook, size 4.50 mm (G) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE. GAUGE 1 Pat St repeat = 4; 6 rows = 4 in crocheted pattern with A, B, C or D using size 4.50 mm (G) crochet hook. 1 St holder or safety pin. TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. NOTE This garment is made all in one piece with the lower band added during finishing. It is worked sideways from left cuff to right cuff. STRIPE SEQUENCE * Working in crocheted pat, work 3 rows A, 3 rows B, 3 rows C, 3 rows D, rep from * for stripe sequence. SHRUG With crochet hook, using A, ch 160. Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, skip 2 chs, work *(dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc+ all in next ch, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, skip 2 chs, yo and pull up a loop in next ch, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, skip 2 chs, yo and pull up a loop in next ch, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook, rep from * 4 times more, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, skip 2 chs, work *(dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc+ all in next ch, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch, ch 1, *skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch] twice. Turn. Row 2: Ch 3, yo and pull up a loop in ch-1 space, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull up a loop in next ch-1 space, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook, * skip next dc and ch-1 space, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 space and dc, dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch-1 space, work [(dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc] all in next ch-1 space, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch-1 space, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, skip 1 dc and 1 ch-1 space, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next dc, skip next ch-1 space, yo and pull up a loop in next ch-1 space, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull up a loop in next ch-1 space, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook, rep from * 4 times more, skip 1 dc and 1 ch-1 space, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 space and dc, dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, work [(dc, ch 1), twice, dc] all in next ch-1 space, work [(dc, ch 1) 3 times, dc] all in next ch-1 space, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch-1 space, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, skip 1 dc and 1 ch-1 space, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next dc, skip next ch-1 space, yo and pull up a loop in next ch-1 space, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull up a loop in top of ch-1, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook. Turn. Rep Row 2, following

stripe sequence until piece measures approximately 16 from beg and eight 3 -row stripes have been completed. Shape Neck: Next Row (RS): Rep Row 2, repeating from * once instead of 4 times, then working to end. Turn. (Only half of row will have been worked.) Work even on the first half of row for approximately 4(6) or until two(three) more 3-row stripes have been completed. Sl last st on hook onto a holder. With crochet hook, join next color in stripe sequence to beg of last row worked and ch 78. Fasten off. Next Row (RS): Sl st from holder back onto crochet hook, join next color in stripe sequence and rep Row 2 across first half of row, then rep Row 1 across ch. Turn. Rep Row 2 across all sts, following stripe sequence until piece measures approximately 16 from end of neck or until eight more 3 -row stripes have been completed. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Steam piece with hot steam iron and a pressing cloth. Measure in 10 1/2 from starting ch and mark beg and end of row (see schematic). Measure in 10 1/2 from last row worked and mark beg and end of row. Fold piece in half lengthwise. Sew fronts to back up to markers. Waistband/Tie: With crochet hook, using D, ch 21. Row 1: Sc in 9th ch from hook, (ch 5, skip 5 chs, sc in next ch) twice. Turn. Row 2: Ch 7, skip 2 chs, sc in next ch, (skip 2 chs, 1 sc and 2 chs, sc in next ch) twice. Turn. Rep Row 2 until band measures 50(54) from beg. Fasten off. Sew one long edge of waistband to lower edge of shrug leaving ends free at front for ties. Fringe: Cut one 6 long strand each of A, B, C and D. Put strands tog and fold in half. With crochet hook, draw center of strands through first space at end of tie forming a loop. Pull ends of fringe through this loop. In this manner, make 3 fringes in spaces along end of each tie. Trim fringe to even off if necessary. Note: For speedier cutting, wrap yarn multiple times around a piece of cardboard that is the desired length of fringe. Cut lower edge to free wrapped strands.

Any Size/Any Gauge Shrug

Honestly, this is not something you want or need a pattern to do. If you know how to crochet back and forth and know how to crochet in the round, you can do this shrug. I think a pattern only serves to confuse, and removes the ability to conform this shrug to your choice of size, yarn and gauge. If you follow the schematics, you can make this for a 2 year old or for a size XXXL! And you can use any stitches you like - heavy dense ones or lacy light ones. You can use any yarn you want - baby weight or bulky weight. You can even choose whatever needle/hook size you want - a heavy yarn with smaller needle/hook will make a heavy shrug, a light yarn with larger needle/hook will make a lacy one. Obviously you can knit OR crochet this. It's actually really easy - the hardest part is probably choosing what type of ruffle to do for the collar portion. If you want to try it but are nervous, make a doll sized one! That'll give you a chance to see how it all comes together and it won't take much time or yarn. Gauge First - make a gauge using whatever stitch you prefer for the body of your shrug. Measure your stitches per inch. Write this down somewhere! Gauge (G) = ____. Measuring Now, you must get a sweater you like or one the person who plans to wear the shrug likes, one whose fit you wish to duplicate in your shrug. Spread out your sweater and measure thusly: From wrist to wrist: L (for length of rectangle) Across the chest: C for chest Alllll the way around the widest part of the arm: A Make the rectangle body The "body" of the shrug is nothing but a rectangle. This is not tricky. To figure your initial chain or cast on, multiply G x A = _______. (This is the number of stitches. Remember to add on any starting chain necessary for the stitch of your choice if you're crocheting... sc requires 1 chain, hdc requires 2, etc.)You begin at the short end (A) and work until it is (L) long enough, using the stitch of your choice. End off, work in ends. Sewing the sleeves Fold your rectangle in half, long-edge to long-edge. x to x and y to y. But you already knew that. You will be sewing two seams, one from each end toward the middle, but you will leave some of the middle open. The number of inches you leave open in the center is determined by C - your chest measurement. Now, you will do some more math. This is NOT tricky. L" - C" = _____ divided by 2 = ______ the number of inches to sew up each arm. Take a yarn needle and some yarn, and neatly sew the two seams. Turn the shrug to look at you, open up the center opening and you will now have this: If you wanted a plain shrug, you could stop here, slip your arms into each of those long tubes and have a shrug. Or, you can put the ruffly bit on.

Ruffle

From now on, you are working in the round. With a hook one size larger, sc in each stitch all the way around the opening. If knitting, you'll need a circular needle and you'll pick up evenly all the way around. Now, begin your chosen ruffle stitch, working even for several inches, then increasing as you go to make the ruffle fan out slightly. That's it! Try it on as you go and stop making the ruffle when it is as long as you like. If you wish to make ruffled cuffs, simply chain around (or pick up and knit) the wrists and make a similar ruffle for as long as desired.

Variations:

You needn't make one which goes from wrist-to-wrist. You can measure from elbow-to-elbow, or even upperarm-to-upperarm. Just remember to always leave stitches to measure C open in the center. For a snug fitting shrug, measure a snug fitting sweater. For a loose shrug, measure a loose fitting sweater.

An example of stitches used

I used Bernat Baby Softee in pink http://store.knitting-warehouse.com/...baby-yarn.html and it took almost all of three skeins. I was surprised, actually, that it took quite so much for a womens size small. (US 6/8) I used a G hook for the body and an H hook for the ruffle. I believe my gauge was about 3 spi. I think any sport or dk weight yarn would be best, but I don't really like bulky clothing.

Sweater stitch
I used the "sweater stitch" for the body of mine, which is much lighter weight than normal sc. Chain any even number of chains. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (you must have an odd number of scs at this point) Row 2: Sc in FLO of first stitch, * sc in BLO of next stitch, sc in FLO of next stitch* across. Ch 1, turn. Rows 3 - ?: Repeat row 2. (You will notice that you're always putting a sc in the opposite loop from the one below, which makes a bit of a seed stitch pattern.) (This pattern repeat can be worked over any odd number, plus ONE for the starting chain.) It seems small but it will come out as the post above you and then you can add length to it with the ruffle which will make the rest of the body as well as the collar.

Ruffle pattern
For the ruffle, I single crocheted around the body opening, making sure my sc were an amount divisible by three. My ruffle pattern is *2dc, ch 1, 2dc (shell made), ch 1 skip 2 scs* across. On subsequent rounds, slip stitch into the center of the shell, do a ch 3 for initial dc, then dc, ch 1, 2dc, ch 1. In next shell, make shell (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch 1. I repeated this for five rounds, then put two chains between the shells for five rounds. Then put three chains between the shells for five rounds. Then, I changed the shells to *3dc, ch1, 3dc - ch 3* for several rounds, until I had to move up to *4dc, ch 1, 4dc* shells with an increasing number of chains between rounds - ending with (I believe) 4dc, ch 1, 4dc, ch 6. In the final round I simply sc in each stitch around. You just keep increasing the ruffle until it IS close enough to tie - more rows of ruffle mean it'll cover more of your front. My daughter overlaps the front of hers and pins it over the tummy area most times The wrist ruffle was just the regular ruffle with no subsequent increases: "For the ruffle, I single crocheted around the body opening, making sure my sc were an amount divisible by three. My ruffle pattern is *2dc, ch 1, 2dc (shell made), ch 1 skip 2 scs* across. On subsequent rounds, slip stitch into the center of the shell, do a ch 3 for initial dc, then dc, ch 1, 2dc, ch 1. In next shell, make shell (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch 1. "

The Tie
The tie is simply a short length of chain, which my daughter threaded through an opening on each side of the ruffle - in a place where she wanted. You can also cross the ruffle over your torso and pin it.

Example
One reader made this (see pic on the left): I used Caron Simply Soft in Yellow, made the majority of it using extended sc, then about 6 inches on each sleeve is done in shell stitch and I used the ruffle you described in the schematics since I'd already used shells in the sleeves. Then I just whipped up a flower and attached it to a pin so it can be used as a closure, or it can be worn on a hat

Crochet Shrug with ruffled edge

Color Shown: Dawn / Tangerine Crochet Level - 3 (Intermediate) 450 yds (3 Skeins) Bali Sky/Sarong Yarn 450 yds of Springy Capelli Instructions are for size Small/Medium (Medium/Large) Finished measurements: 52 (55) around Hook "K" /50mm TENSION: 1 Square: Gauge 12 st or 4 Squares of Mesh Pattern= 4" Note: Use two strands of yarn together: 1 strand of Bali Sky Sarong and 1 strand of Springy Capelli (carry throughout to add stretch and softness) Foundation row 1: Ch 79 (82) sts, dc in 7th ch from hook, *ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch repeat across, 25(26) squares (counting 7 chain st loop at beginning as one square). Foundation row 2: Ch 4, *dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2 repeat from * across to ch 7 loop, dc, ch 1, dc in loop. Ch 5, turn. Row 1: *Dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2 repeat across, end with dc in ch 4 space, ch 4, turn. Row 2: Dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2 repeat across until last repeat, dc, ch 1, dc in ch 5 space. Ch 5, turn. Repeat rows 1 & 2 12(13) times [26(28) rows total]. Fasten off. Piece should measure 22 (25)" long from foundation chain. Seaming: Fold piece in half crosswise. Work side seams as follows: Attach yarn in first st of foundation row. Zigzag across by ch 2, sc in side of last row worked, ch 2, sc in square on opposite side of seam. Continue up side seam until 6"(7") from fold. Leave remainder open for armhole. Bottom Flounce: Round 1: Starting at side seam on bottom edge, *ch 6, skip one ch-2 sp and sc in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * around bottom edge ending with ch 3, treble crochet in first ch of round. Round 2: *Ch 6, sc in ch 6 loop, repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, treble crochet in first ch 6 loop. Work a total of 4(5) rounds, fasten off. Sleeves: Working around armhole, start at side seam, attach yarn Row 1: *Ch 6, skip end of one row, sc in end of next row of body, repeat from * around, ending ch 3, treble crochet in first chain. Continue same as for the body flounce with 5(6) more rounds. Make other sleeve to match.

Betty
crocheted in Touch Skill level: Intermediate

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Yarn used

Touch

Betty, the crocheted version of our long-sleeved shrug, is made all in one piece with a lacey band added during finishing.

Shown in size X-Small/Small SIZES Directions are for women's size X-Small/Small. Changes for Medium/Large are in parentheses. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Width 29(33) Length 18(19 1/2) MATERIALS 17(18) hanks BERROCO TOUCH (50 grs), #7930 Green Tea. Crochet hooks, sizes 4.50 mm (G) and 5.00 mm (H) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE. GAUGE 17 dc = 4"; 8 rows = 4" in dc using size 5.00 mm (H) crochet hook. TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. NOTE 1 Shrug is made all in one piece with the band added during finishing. It is worked sideways from left cuff to right cuff. There is no neck opening -- you slip your arms into the sleeves with the entire piece behind your back. Front edges of shrug are not intended to meet (see photo). NOTE 2 To join with a dc, make a slip knot and place on hook. Yo, insert hook into st, yo and draw up a lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps on hook) twice. STITCH GLOSSARY dc2tog

(Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook. dc3tog (Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. Inc 1 dc Work 2 dc in 1 st. Dec 1 dc Work dc2tog over 2 sts. SHRUG Left Sleeve: With smaller crochet hook, ch 39(43). Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across 38(42) sts. Ch 1, turn. Rows 2-4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. When Row 4 is completed, change to larger crochet hook, ch 3, turn. Row 5: Dc across, inc 6(8) dc evenly spaced 44(50) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 6-8: Dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn. Row 9: Work 2 dc in first st, dc in each st to last st, work 2 dc in last st 46(52) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 10-12: Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. Rows 13-28: Rep Rows 9-12 4 times more 54(60) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 29 and 30: Rep Row 9 twice more 58(64) dc. Fasten off, turn. Body: Next Row (RS): Ch 17(18), join with a dc in first dc of sleeve, then continue to dc in each st across, ch 20(21), turn. Next Row: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 16(17) ch, dc in each st across sleeve, dc in next 17(18) ch 92(100) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rep Row 6 as for sleeve until body measures 29(33)" from beg, end with a WS row. Fasten off, turn. Right Sleeve: Next Row (RS): Skip first 17(18) sts, join with a dc in next st, then dc in next 57(63) sts, leaving remaining 17(18) dc unworked. Ch 3, turn. Rows 1 and 2: Dc2tog, dc in each dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog 54(60)dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 3-5: Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. Row 6: Dc2tog, dc in each dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog 52(58) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 7-9: Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. Rows 10-25: Rep Rows 6-9 4 times more 44(50) dc. Ch 3, turn. Row 26: Dc across, dec 6(8) dc evenly spaced 38(42) sts. Change to smaller hook, ch 1, turn. Rows 27-30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. When Row 30 is completed, do not ch and turn; fasten off. FINISHING Sew side and sleeve seams.

Border: Foundation Rnd: With RS facing and larger crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in any side seam. Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc at side seam), work 128(146) sc evenly spaced across to opposite side seam, sc in side seam, work another 128(146) sc evenly spaced to beg side seam, join rnd with a sl st in beg ch-1 258(294) sc. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (always counts as 1 dc at side seam), ** dc in first st, * skip next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st, rep from * 62(71) times more, dc in next st **, dc in next st at side seam, rep from ** to ** once more, join rnd with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Rnd 2: Ch 1 (always counts as 1 sc at side seam), sc in each st around, join rnd with a sl st in beg ch-1. Rnd 3: Ch 3, ** dc in first st, ch 1, * dc3tog, ch 2, rep from * 40(46) times more, end dc3tog, ch 1, dc in next st **, dc in next st at side seam, rep from ** to ** once more, join rnd with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Rnd 4: Ch 1, ** sc in first st, sc in ch-1 sp, * sc in next st, work 2 sc in next ch2 sp, rep from * 40(46) times more, end sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st **, sc in next st at side seam, rep from ** to ** once more, join rnd with a sl st in beg ch-1. Rnds 5 and 6: Rep Rnds 3 and 4. Rnds 7 and 8: Rep Rnds 1 and 2. Rnds 9-14: Rep Rnds 3 and 4 3 times. Rnds 15 and 16: Rep Rnds 1 and 2. Rnds 17 and 18: Rep Rnds 3 and 4. Rnd 19: Rep Rnd 1. Rnd 20: Ch 1, working from left to right, sc in each st around, join rnd with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Right Sleeve Edging: With RS facing and smaller crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in underarm seam, ch 1, working from left to right, sc in each st around, join rnd with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Left Sleeve Edging: With RS facing and smaller crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in underarm seam, ch 1, working from left to right, sc in each bottom loop of foundation

DROPS Crochet Bolero in Cotton Viscose

DROPS number 95-36

DROPS Crochet Bolero in Cotton Viscose " - Delicate bolero for socializing and party, but also a garment to decorate your everyday wear..." Size: XS/S S - M L - XL - XXL Materials: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio 200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour no. 11, khaki green and use DROPS Vienna from Garnstudio 50-50-50-50-50 g colour no. 16, moss green DROPS Crochet Hook size 4 DROPS Crochet Hook size 6 (for borders) Max prices as of 01.02.2010: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE - 2.20 GBP per 50 gr skein Remember - the DROPS collection is always Best in Price, up to 25-35% lower than other similar yarn brands. ...AND remember that every time you buy a skein of the original DROPS / GARNSTUDIO yarn, not only you will be guaranteed the best result, but you have also made an important contribution to our designers and our development to make www.garnstudio.com to an even better net place.

Color chart for CottonViscose | Yarn alternatives | School of Handcraft | Dictionaries THE DROPS SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION 2010 IS AVAILABLE ONLINE! We post the patterns continuously as they are being proofread and completed. The designs have been selected based on your votes and comments. The collection is very summery with plenty of delightful

details such as flounces, laces and puff sleeves. Youll also find a number of maritime inspired designs. Theres is something for everyone! A big thank you for all your comments, votes and feedback, we truly appreciate your help! See all the designs and find the patterns here

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Note: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inch - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. Crochet gauge: 17 dtr x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm Crochet info: At the beginning of each row replace 1 dtr with 4 ch, and finish each row with 1 dtr in 4th ch from beginning of previous row. Crochet in each st and not in between. Decreasing tips (applies to armhole and neck): Dec as follows at beginning of row: replace 1 dtr with a sl st. Dec as follows at end of row: Turn the piece when number of dtr to be dec are left on row and crochet next row. Increasing tips (applies to slope at front): Increase new sts towards mid front by crocheting ch's in last st from previous row. Crochet the same number of ch's as the number of dtr's to be increased, but as the first dtr on next row is to be replaced by 4 ch, replace the last ch with 4 ch, i.e. if you are to increase 5 dtr crochet 8 ch, turn the piece, crochet 1 dtr in 5th ch from the hook and then 1 dtr in each of the remaining ch's, continue on row with 1 dtr in each dtr from previus row. Back piece: Loosely crochet 80-88-99-112-123-136 ch using hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose. Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size XS + S + L + XXL finish with 1 dtr in the last 2 chs (instead of the last 3 ch) and for size M + XL finish with 1 dtr in the last ch (instead of the last 3 chs) = 58-64-72-82-90-100 dtr. Now crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row see Crochet info. At the same time after 2-2-3-3-3-3 rows inc 1 dtr each side by crocheting 1 extra dtr in the last but one dtr each side as follows: Size XS + S + M: on every other row, Size L + XL + XXL: on every 3rd row a total of 5-5-5-4-4-4 times = 68-7482-90-98-108 dtr. When piece measures approx 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm dec for armhole each side on every other row see Decreasing tips: 3-3-4-6-7-9 dtrs 1 time, 2 dtrs 0-0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 dtr 1-2-3-4-4-4 times = 60-64-64-66-68-70 dtr. When piece measures approx 35-37-39-41-43-45 cm (only 1 row left until finished measurements) crochet 1 row over only the outermost 20-21-21-21-21-22 dtrs each side (i.e. do not crochet over the middle 20-22-22-24-26-26 dtrs = neck). Cut the thread, piece measures approx 37-3941-43-45-47 cm. Left front piece: Loosely crochet 28-29-32-35-37-40 ch using crochet hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose. Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 3 ch*

repeat from *-* but for size XS + M + XXL finish with 1 dtr in the last 2 chs (instead of the last 3 ch ) and for size L finish with 1 dtr in the last ch (instead of the last 3 chs) = 19-20-22-24-26-28 dtr. Now crochet 1 dtr in each dtr from previous row as for back piece, at the same time inc towards mid front on every other row (i.e. on every row towards mid front) see Increasing tips: 5 dtrs 1-1-2-2-2-2 times, 4 dtrs 1-1-0-0-0-0 times, 3 dtrs 0-0-0-1-1-2 times, 2 dtrs 1-2-2-2-3-3 times and 1 dtr 1-1-2-2-2-2 times. At the same time inc at side as for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm compare to back piece dec for armhole as described for back piece. At the same time when piece measures 26-26-26-2828-30 cm dec for neckline towards mid front on every row see Decreasing tips: 7-8-8-9-10-10 dtrs 1 time, 2 dtrs 1 time and 1 dtr 3 times = 20-21-21-21-21-22 dtr left on shoulder. When piece measures approx 3739-41-43-45-47 compare to back piece cut the thread. Right front piece: As left front piece but mirrored. Sleeve: Loosely crochet 66-70-74-78-82-86 ch using crochet hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose. Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 dtr in the 5th ch from the hook, 1 dtr in next ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 dtr in each of the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* = 48-51-54-57-60-63 dtr. Crochet 1-1-2-3-3-4 rows of dtr as before, at the same time inc 1 dtr each side on every other row by crocheting 1 extra dtr in the second but last dtr each side = 50-53-58-63-66-71 dtr. On next row dec for sleeve cap each side on every row see Decreasing tips: 4 dtrs 1 time, 3 dtrs 1 time, and then 2 dtrs each side until piece measures approx 10-11-13-17-19-21 cm. Cut the thread. Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Crochet sleeves to body using crochet hook size 4 and Cotton Viscose as follows: 1 dc in first st on sleeve, 2 ch, 1 dc in first st on back/front piece, 2 ch, 1 dc in dtr on sleeve, 2 ch, 1 dc in dtr on back/front piece etc. Crochet sleeve and side seams together in the same way. Crochet border: Crochet a border round the opening of the bolero (i.e. up along both front pieces, round neck and along lower edge) using crochet hook size 6 and Vienna as follows: 1 dc in first st, *3 ch, skip approx 2.5 cm, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round. NB! The border should be nice and even and not wavy. Close the jacket with a brooch of button. Diagram

DROPS number 95-36

We take pride in providing knitting and crochet patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern for measurements and calculations. Go to original pattern for model 95-36. All patterns are carefully reviewed, but we make reservation for possible mistakes. In the case of discrepancies please post your remark in "knitting help" or contact your local Garnstudio retailer. Copyright information: Copyright 2001 DROPS DESIGN. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. This is for all of you with knitting as a hobby and for you who run a yarn store. Either way, the DROPS pattern database is at your free disposal. As a store you are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of your assortment. Print out any pattern you may want, make as many copies as desired. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document... and that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free.

Cozy Shrug
Fluffy bulky weight yarn that's soft as a cloud creates the sumptuous texture and cozy comfort in this pretty, sky blue shrug that will wrap you in heavenly warmth! Design by Shirley Zebrowski Skill Level: Beginner Size: 31 1/2 X 60 inches Materials Coats & Clark Red Heart Baby Clouds bulky yarn (6 oz per skein): 6 skeins blue sky #9025 Coats & Clark Red Heart Super Saver worsted weight yarn: 4 oz light blue #381 Sizes I/9 and J/10 crochet hooks or sizes needed to obtain gauge Yarn needle Gauge: With J hook, 2 shells = 2 inches; with I hook, 7 sc = 2 inches; 7 sc rows = 2 inches Check gauge to save time. Pattern Notes Weave in loose ends as work progresses. Ch-3 counts as first dc throughout. Pattern Stitch Shell: 5 dc in indicated st.

Shrug
Row 1: With hook size J and blue sky, ch 122, sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk next 2 chs, shell in next ch, sk next 2 chs, sc in next ch] rep across, turn. (21 sc; 20 shells) Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in same sc as beg ch-3, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk 2 dc, [shell in next sc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc] rep across, ending with 3 dc in last sc, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, [sk next 2 dc, shell in next sc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc] rep across, turn. Rows 438: Rep Rows 2 and 3, at the end of last rep, fasten off.

Cuff
Make 2 Row 1 (RS): Working across ends of rows with I hook, attach light blue, ch 1, gathering edge slightly, work 49 sc evenly sp across edge, turn. (49 sc) Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [draw up a lp in each of next 3 sc, yo, draw through all 4 lps on hook, sc in next sc] rep across, turn. (25 sc) Rows 316: Ch 1, working in back lps only, sc in each st across, turn. Row 17 (RS): Ch 1, working in back lps only, sc in each st across, do not turn. Row 18 (RS): Ch 1, sc evenly sp across long edge of shrug to opposite end, do not turn. Row 19 (RS): Ch 1, working across ends of row, ch 1, gathering edge slightly, work 49 sc evenly sp across edge, turn. (49 sc) Rep Rows 218, fasten off.

Finishing
With length of light blue, beg at end of cuff, sew seam tog from beg of cuff and along shrug for a total of 10 inches. Sew opposite cuff and shrug in same manner.

Coral Picot Cropped Cardigan

Designed by Diane Langan

Materials: J crochet hook, 2(2)(3) 6 oz. skeins TLC Simply Soft Yarn, any color, I used Watermelon. Size: Small 32-34 inch chest, Medium- 36-38 inch chest, Large 40-42 inch chest. Gauge: 8 hdc rows = 5 inches, 5 sts = 2 inches. Notes: Garment will lay nicer if you work decreases loosely. Additional notes are included throughout for size changes. When noted "repeat once" or "twice" this is in addition to the row just worked. (you do not increase the group of rows listed) . Example row 46: hdc across. Size Medium and Large rep once. You will only repeat 1 more row of hdc and not 3 ) Body is worked in rows and sleeves are worked in rounds and rows. Rounds need to be turned.

Body
Row 1: Ch 87(97)(107) sc in 2nd ch from hk and each ch across, turn. Row 2: ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each sc across. Row 3: ch 2, hdc across, turn. Row 4-6: Rep row 3. For Medium repeat once, for Large repeat twice, turn.

Right Front
Row 7: ch 2, hdc in next 19(22)(24) sts, turn. (20, 23, 25) Row 8: ch 2, hdc across decreasing 1 hdc at arm edge, turn. (19, 22, 24) Row 9: Rep row 8, turn. (18, 21, 23) For Medium and Large repeat row 8 once. (18, 20, 22) Row 10-16: ch 2, hdc across, turn. For Medium repeat once and for Large repeat twice. Row 17: ch 2, hdc across decreasing 2 hdc at neck edge, turn. (16, 18, 20)

Row 18-20: repeat row 17, turn. (10, 12, 14) For Medium repeat once working 1 decrease at neck edge not 2. For large repeat once working 2 decrease at neck edge. Row 21: ch 2, hdc across, turn. Row 22: rep row 21 Fasten off. For Medium and Large repeat once, fasten off. Size Small will have 22 rows, Size Medium will have 26 rows, Size Large will have 28 rows. Back Row 7: sk 2 sts of row 6 (left of right front), attach yarn in next st, ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in next 41(45)(49) sts, turn. (42, 46, 50) Row 8: ch 2, hdc across decreasing 1 hdc at each end, turn (40, 44, 48) Row 9: rep row 8. (38, 40, 42) Row 10-18: ch 2, hdc across, turn. For Medium repeat once. For Large repeat twice. Row 19: ch 2, hdc across, decreasing 2 hdc on each end, turn. (34, 36, 38) Row 20-23: rep row 19. (18, 20, 22) Row 24: For Small - ch 2, hdc across decreasing 1 hdc at each end, fasten off. For Medium and Large rep row 19, fasten off. (16, 16, 18) Size Small will have 24 rows. Size Medium will have 27. Size Large will have 29 rows.

Left Front
Row 7: sk 2 sts of row 6, (left of back) attach yarn in next st, ch 2 (counts as hdc), dc in next 19(22)(24) sts, turn. Row 8 22: repeat as for Right Front. Size Small will have 22 rows, Size Medium will have 26 rows, Size Large will have 28 rows.

Sleeves (make 2)
Rnd 1: Loosely ch 20(20)(22), join, ch 1, sc in each ch around, join, turn. (right side) Rnd 2: ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each st around, join, turn. Rnd 3: ch 2, hdc in same st (increase made), hdc in each st around, join, turn. (21, 21, 23) Rnd 4: rep rnd 2. Rnd 5: rep rnd 3. (22, 22, 24) Rnd 6: rep rnd 2. Rnd 7: rep rnd 3. (23, 23, 25) Rnd 8: rep rnd 2. Rnd 9: rep rnd 3. (24, 24, 26) Rnd 10: rep rnd 2. Rnd 11: rep rnd 3. (25, 25, 27) Rnd 12: rep rnd 2. Rnd 13: rep rnd 3. (26, 26, 28) Rnd 14: rep rnd 2. Rnd 15: rep rnd 3. (27, 27, 29) Rnd 16: rep rnd 2. Rnd 17: rep rnd 3. (28, 28, 30) Rnd 18: rep rnd 2. Rnd 19: rep rnd 3. (29, 29, 31) Rnd 20: rep rnd 2. Rnd 21: rep rnd 3 (30, 30, 32) Rnd 22: rep rnd 2. Rnd 23: For Small rep rnd 2. For Medium and Large rep rnd 3. (30, 31, 33) Rnd 24: rep rnd 2. Rnd 25: For Small rep rnd 2. For medium and Large rep rnd 3. (30, 32, 34) Rnd 26: rep rnd 2. Rnd 27: For Small and Medium rep rnd 2. For Large repeat rnd 3. (30, 32, 35) Rnd 28: rep rnd 2. Rnd 29: For Small and Medium rep rnd 2. For Large rep rnd 3. (30, 32, 36)

Rnd 30: rep rnd 2. For Medium and Large repeat twice. Row 31: sl st in next 4(4)(6) sts, ch 2, hdc across, (do not join), turn. (26, 28, 30) Row 32: ch 2, hdc across decreasing 2 hdc each end, turn. (22, 24, 26) Row 33: ch 2, dc across, decreasing 1 hdc each end, turn. ( 20, 22, 24) Row 34 38 : rep row 33. (10, 12, 16) For Small Row 39, 40: ch 2, hdc across, turn. Fasten off at end. For medium Row 39: rep row 33. Row 40, 41: ch 2, hdc across, turn. Fasten off at end. For Large Row 39, 40: rep row 33. Row 41: ch 2, hdc across, fasten off. Finishing With wrong sides together st shoulders. With wrong sides together st sleeves. You can either use yarn and a needle or working through both thicknesses attach yarn, ch 1 and sc across or around, join and fasten off. Edging Rnd 1: with right side facing you, attach yarn in bottom right corner, work sc around entire body evenly, join. Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in same st, * ch 3, sl st in 1st ch fo ch 3, sc in next 3 sc * rep around. Join, fasten off. Repeat Rnd 1 and 2 around each sleeve. Please note that this pattern and all contents included are May 2005 copyrighted to Diane Langan and may be used for personal use only and cannot be used in any way for profit or distributed to others without written consent.

Betty

crocheted in Touch Skill level: Intermediate

enlarge model

enlarge detail Schematic | Abbreviations & Terms Yarn used ...

Touch

Betty, the crocheted version of our long-sleeved shrug, is made all in one piece with a lacey band added during finishing.

Shown in size X-Small/Small SIZES Directions are for women's size X-Small/Small. Changes for Medium/Large are in parentheses.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Width 29(33) Length 18(19 1/2) MATERIALS 17(18) hanks BERROCO TOUCH (50 grs), #7930 Green Tea. Crochet hooks, sizes 4.50 mm (G) and 5.00 mm (H) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE. GAUGE 17 dc = 4"; 8 rows = 4" in dc using size 5.00 mm (H) crochet hook. TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. NOTE 1 Shrug is made all in one piece with the band added during finishing. It is worked sideways from left cuff to right cuff. There is no neck opening -- you slip your arms into the sleeves with the entire piece behind your back. Front edges of shrug are not intended to meet (see photo). NOTE 2 To join with a dc, make a slip knot and place on hook. Yo, insert hook into st, yo and draw up a lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps on hook) twice. STITCH GLOSSARY dc2tog (Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook. dc3tog (Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. Inc 1 dc Work 2 dc in 1 st. Dec 1 dc Work dc2tog over 2 sts. SHRUG Left Sleeve: With smaller crochet hook, ch 39(43). Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across 38(42) sts. Ch 1, turn. Rows 2-4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. When Row 4 is completed, change to larger crochet hook, ch 3, turn. Row 5: Dc across, inc 6(8) dc evenly spaced 44(50) dc. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 6-8: Dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn. Row 9: Work 2 dc in first st, dc in each st to last st, work 2 dc in last st 46(52) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 10-12: Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. Rows 13-28: Rep Rows 9-12 4 times more 54(60) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 29 and 30: Rep Row 9 twice more 58(64) dc. Fasten off, turn. Body: Next Row (RS): Ch 17(18), join with a dc in first dc of sleeve, then continue to dc in each st across, ch 20(21), turn. Next Row: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in next 16(17) ch, dc in each st across sleeve, dc in next 17(18) ch 92(100) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rep Row 6 as for sleeve until body measures 29(33)" from beg, end with a WS row. Fasten off, turn. Right Sleeve: Next Row (RS): Skip first 17(18) sts, join with a dc in next st, then dc in next 57(63) sts, leaving remaining 17(18) dc unworked. Ch 3, turn. Rows 1 and 2: Dc2tog, dc in each dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog 54(60)dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 3-5: Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. Row 6: Dc2tog, dc in each dc to last 2 sts, dc2tog 52(58) dc. Ch 3, turn. Rows 7-9: Dc in each dc across. Ch 3, turn. Rows 10-25: Rep Rows 6-9 4 times more 44(50) dc. Ch 3, turn. Row 26: Dc across, dec 6(8) dc evenly spaced 38(42) sts. Change to smaller hook, ch 1, turn. Rows 27-30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. When Row 30 is completed, do not ch and turn; fasten off. FINISHING Sew side and sleeve seams. Border: Foundation Rnd: With RS facing and larger crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in any side seam. Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc at side seam), work 128(146) sc evenly spaced across to opposite side seam, sc in side seam, work another 128(146) sc evenly spaced to beg side seam, join rnd with a sl st in beg ch-1 258(294) sc. Rnd 1: Ch 3 (always counts as 1 dc at side seam), ** dc in first st, * skip next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st, rep from * 62(71) times more, dc in next st **, dc in next st at side seam, rep from ** to ** once more, join rnd with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Rnd 2: Ch 1 (always counts as 1 sc at side seam), sc in each st around, join rnd with a sl st in beg ch-1. Rnd 3: Ch 3, ** dc in first st, ch 1, * dc3tog, ch 2, rep from * 40(46) times more, end dc3tog, ch 1, dc in next st **, dc in next st at side seam, rep from ** to ** once more, join rnd with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-3. Rnd 4: Ch 1, ** sc in first st, sc in ch-1 sp, * sc in next st, work 2 sc in next ch2 sp, rep from * 40(46) times more, end sc in next st, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next st **, sc in next st at side seam, rep from ** to ** once more, join rnd with a sl st

in beg ch-1. Rnds 5 and 6: Rep Rnds 3 and 4. Rnds 7 and 8: Rep Rnds 1 and 2. Rnds 9-14: Rep Rnds 3 and 4 3 times. Rnds 15 and 16: Rep Rnds 1 and 2. Rnds 17 and 18: Rep Rnds 3 and 4. Rnd 19: Rep Rnd 1. Rnd 20: Ch 1, working from left to right, sc in each st around, join rnd with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Right Sleeve Edging: With RS facing and smaller crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in underarm seam, ch 1, working from left to right, sc in each st around, join rnd with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off. Left Sleeve Edging: With RS facing and smaller crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in underarm seam, ch 1, working from left to right, sc in each bottom loop of foundation

Crystal Lace Bolero

by Robyn Chachula Ed. note: Robyn has written a blog post to address common questions about the bolero. Materials List Softwist by Berroco, #9467 Amethyst, (41% wool, 59% nylon), 100 yds (91m): 5 (7, 9) hanks 5.50mm (US size I/9) hook Yarn needle for weaving in ends Yarn for this project was generously supplied (and wound beautifully) by Dream Weaver Yarns. Finished Size Small, (Medium, Large) To fit bust sizes 28-32, (33-36, 38-44) and upper arm circumference 9 (12, 15). Gauge 4 x 4 (10cm x 10cm) = 1 granny square Special Stitches:

Cluster (CL): Yo, *insert hook into ring, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,* repeat from * to * twice more, yo, draw through remaining 4 loops on hook. Notes Please watch size as you join granny squares. Softwist is very elastic and will stretch, so if you plan on using a different yarn, check fit often. Fit is intended to be relaxed. Keep in mind that you can easily alter the garment by changing the layout of the granny squares. For example, if you would prefer cap sleeves, leave off the grannies at the arm. Or if you want a shrug; leave off the grannies at the front panels. The options are yours, enjoy exploring. Written instructions are provided along with diagrams. Click diagram thumbnails to enlarge. The Pattern Granny Square: Make 10, (22, 36) See stitch diagram for assistance (click to enlarge). Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2. Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc in top of dc2tog. Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 6 more times, ch 2, dc in top of hdc of previous round. Round 3: *Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* rep from * to * two more times, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into dc of previous round. Round 4: *Ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* rep from * to * 3 more times ending with sc into last ch sp. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Half Granny Square: Make 0, (2, 0). Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2. Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog. Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 3 more times, ch 2, dc into next ch-3 sp, turn. Round 3: Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch-5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into next ch-5 sp, turn. Round 4: Ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp. Fasten off. Weave in ends. 3/4 Granny Square: Make 4, (2, 4) Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2. Round 1: Dc2tog into ring, [ch 3, CL] into ring 7 times, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog. Round 2: *Ch 5, sc into ch-3 sp,* rep from * to * 5 more times, ch 2, dc into ch-3 sp, turn. Round 3: *Ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp*, repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, [CL, ch 3, CL] into next ch-5 sp, ch 2, dc into next ch-5 sp, turn. Round 4: Ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, *ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into same ch-3 sp, ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp,* repeat from * to * 1 more time. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Joining Use Small Layout, Medium Layout, Large Layout, and Legend for placement of grannies. Join all grannies as shown in the layout, then join arm and side seams in the same manner.

Joining four grannies (see diagram): Ch 6, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 2, dc2tog in ring, *ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into ring, ch 3, CL in ring,* repeat from * to * 2 more times, ch1, sc in ch-5 sp of corner of granny, ch 1, CL in ring, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog, (center made) dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny (see picture), *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Joining between centers (see diagram): Join yarn to a ch-3 sp of first center, dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch5 sp of first granny, *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 3, sc into ch-3 sp of next center, ch 3, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Joining Continues (see diagram): ch 6, sl st into first ch to form ring, ch 2, dc2tog into ring, *ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into circle, ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp of next joining, ch 1, CL into circle,* repeat from * to * 2 more times, ch 1, sc into ch-5 sp at corner of granny, ch 1, CL into circle, ch 1, hdc into top of dc2tog (center made), dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, **ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,** repeat from ** to ** 1 more time, ch 5, sc into last ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Joining at Cuff Edge (see diagram): Join yarn to a ch-3 sp of first center, dc into next ch-5 sp of first granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into same ch-5 sp of first granny, *ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of second granny, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of first granny,* repeat from * to * 1 more time, ch 3, sc into ch-5 sp at the corner of the first granny, ch 2, sc into ch-5 sp at the corner of the second granny, ch 3, sl st into previous ch-5 sp of second granny. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Edging at Neck and Front Panel (see diagram): Join yarn to ch-3 sp of center, ch 3, sc into next ch-5 sp of granny, {if at neck edge, [ch 5, sc into next ch-5 sp] twice, ch 3, sc into next ch-3 sp of center}. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Arm Cuff Join yarn to underarm with a sl st into any ch-5 sp, ch 6, turn. Row 1: Sc into second ch from hook and into each ch across, work 2 sl st into ch sp of granny (first sl st joins row to

bolero, second sl st counts as turning ch), turn. (5 sts) Row 2: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, ch 1, turn. Row 3: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, sl st into ch sp twice, turn. Continue working rows 2-3 evenly around arm cuff. To create a gather, work 4 rows of ribbing in each ch-5 sp and every SC. Whip stitch cuff together along seam. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Collar Join yarn to back with a sl st into any ch-5 sp, ch 13, turn. Row 1: Sc into second ch from hook and into each ch across, sl st into ch sp of granny twice (first sl st joins row to bolero, second sl st counts as turning ch), turn. (12 sts) Row 2: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, ch 1, turn. Row 3: Sc into back-loop of each sc across, sl st into ch sp twice, turn. Continue working rows 2-3 evenly around collar. To create a gather, work 4 rows of ribbing in each ch-5 sp. Whip stitch collar together along seam. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Cream Cotton Shrug

Designed by Diane Langan

Level: Advanced Beginner Materials: 12 oz. Sugar n Cream cotton yarn (or any other yarn that will give you the same gauge), size J crochet hook. Gauge: 5 dc, ch 1 pattern = 3 inches, 6 rows of dc, ch 1 pattern =5 inches. Size: 20 inches across the back under the arms and 16 inches across the back between the shoulders. Sleeves measure 13 inches from under the arm to the end and 15 inches from the shoulder to the end. 20 inches in length.

Squares:
Make 8 Rnd 1: ch 5, join, ch 3, work 15 dc around ring, join. Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in same st, * ch 1 , sc in next st * rep around, ch 1 join in beg sc. Rnd 3: ch 5, dc in same st, ch 2, dc in same st, ch 2, sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 2 * sk next sc, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in next sc, ch 2 sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 2* rep around, join. Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in same st, * 2 sc in ch sp, 3 sc in corner dc, 2 sc in ch sp, sc in dc, 2 sc in ch sp, sc in dc, 2 sc in ch 5 sp, sc in dc * rep around, fasten off. Join squares by stitching through both loops.

Body
Row 1: attach yarn on right side of sew squares in top right corner, ch 1, work 119 sc across, turn. Row 2: ch 4, * Sk 1 sc, dc in next sc, ch 1 * rep across, turn. Row 3: ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp * rep to last ch 1 sp, dc in ch 1 sp, dc in 3 rd ch of ch 4, turn. Row 4: ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp * rep to last ch 1 sp, ch 1, sk next dc, dc in top of ch 3, turn. Row 5: rep row 3. Row 6: rep row 4. Row 7: rep row 3. Row 8: rep row 4.

Right Front
Row 9: ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 13 times, dc in next dc, turn. Row 10: rep row 4. Row 11: ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 12 times, dc in next dc, turn. Row 12: rep row 4. Row 13: rep row 3. Row 14: rep row 4. Row 15: ch 3, sk ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 10 times, ch 1, dc in last sp, dc in 3rd ch of ch 4, turn.

Row 16: ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 9 times, ch 1, sk dc and ch 1 sp, dc in next dc, turn. Row 17: rep row 3. Row 18: ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, ch 1, sk dc and ch 1 sp, dc in next dc, turn. Row 19: rep row 3. Row 20: ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 7 times, ch 1, sk dc and ch 1 sp, dc in next dc, turn. Row 21: ch 3, sk ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 7 times, dc in 3 rd ch of ch 4, turn. Row 22: ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, sk dc and ch 1 sp, dc in next dc, turn. Row 23: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each dc and ch 1 sp across, fasten off.

Back
Row 9: To attach yarn work on right side to the left of the right front, sk 1 dc, attach yarn in next dc, ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 26 times, dc in next dc, turn. Row 10: rep row 4. Row 11: ch 3, sk ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 24 times, sk dc, dc in top of ch 3, turn. Row 12, 14, 16, 18, 20: rep row 4. Row 13, 15, 17, 19: rep row 3. Row 21: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each dc and ch 1 sp across, fasten off.

Left Front Side

Row 9: To attach yarn work on right side to the left of the back, sk 1 dc, attach yarn in next dc, ch 3, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 13 times, dc in 3rd ch of ch 4, turn. Row 10: rep row 4. Row 11: ch 3, sk ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 12 times, dc in 3 rd ch of ch 4, turn. Row 12: ch 4, sk 1 dc, dc in ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 11 times, ch 1, dc in top of ch 3, turn. Row 13: rep row 3. Row 14: rep row 4. Row 15: ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 11 times, dc in next dc, turn. Row 16: ch 4, sk dc ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 9 times, ch 1, dc in top of ch 3, turn. Row 17: rep row 3. Row 18: ch 4, sk dc ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, ch 1, dc in top of ch 3, turn. Row 19: rep row 3. Row 20: ch 4, sk dc ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 7 times, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in top of ch 3, turn. Row 21: ch 3, dc in ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 7 times, dc in 3 rd ch of ch 4, turn. Row 22: ch 4, sk dc ch 1 sp and dc, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times, ch 1, sk 1 dc, dc in top of ch 3, turn. Row 23: ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each ch 1 sp and dc across, fasten off. Sew shoulder seams together.

Left Sleeve (worked in rows and rnds)

Row 1: Working on right side of left front, attach yarn over end st of row 12 of sleeve opening, ch 4, dc over end st of row 13, (ch 1, dc over next row) 9 times, ch 1, dc at center where shouldersre are stitched, (ch 1, dc over next row) 9 times, turn.

Rnd 2: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 17 times, ch 1, dc in ch 4 sp, ch 1, dc in same ch 4 sp, ch 1, dc over row 11, ( ch 1, dc over next row) 2 times, (ch 1 dc in next ch 1 sp) 2 times, (ch 1, dc over next row ) 3 times, ch 1, dc in ch 4 sp of row 1, ch 1, join in 3rd ch of beg ch 4, DO NOT TURN. Row 3: sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 17 times, turn. Rnd 4: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 15 times, ( ch 1, dc in ch 4 sp) 2 times, ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp of row 3, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 10 times, ch 1, dc over last dc of row 3, ch 1, join in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. DO NOT TURN. Rnd 5: sl st into next ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, * ch 1 dc in next ch 1 sp * rep around, join in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. DO NOT TURN. Rnd 6: rep rnd 5. Rnd 7: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 9 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 9 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, join in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. Rnd 8: rep rnd 5. Rnd 9: rep rnd 5. Rnd 10: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 7 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 8 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, join in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. Rnd 11: rep rnd 5. Rnd 12: rep rnd 5. Rnd 13: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 6 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 7 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 7 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, join in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. Rnd 14: rep rnd 5. Rnd 15: sl st into ch 1 sp, ch 4, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, (ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 6 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ( ch 1, dc in next ch 1 sp) 6 times, dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, join in 3rd ch of beg ch 4. Rnd 16: rep rnd 5. Rnd 17: ch 3, dc in each ch 1 sp and dc around, join. Rnd 18: ch 1, sc in same st, sc around, join, fasten off.

Right Sleeve
Row 1: Attach yarn on right side back in row 12 of the sleeve opening, , ch 4, dc over end st of row 13, (ch 1, dc over next row) 7 times, ch 1, dc at center where shoulders are stitched, (ch 1, dc over next row) 11 times, turn. Row 2- 18: rep rows 2-18 of left sleeve. Fasten off.

Edging
Rnd 1: attach yarn in bottom corner of right front on right side (corner of square), ch 1, 3 sc in corner sp, sc in each sc across square and in row 1 of body, work 2 sc in each of next 12 row ends, 3 sc in next row end, 2 sc in next 8 row ends, 1 sc twice over shoulder, sc across back, sc twice over shoulder, 2 sc in next 8 row ends, 3 sc in next row end, 2 sc in next 12 row ends, sc in row 1 of body and each sc down square, 3 sc in corner sp of square, sc across bottom edge, join in beg sc. Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in same sp, * ch 3, sl st in 1st ch of ch 3, (picot made), sc in next 3 sc, * rep around to bottm of left front, work 1 sc after last picot, sl st in next sc, fasten off.

Double Crochet Simple Shrug

Double Crochet Simple Shrug Easy SIZE To fit your arms and back FINISHED MEASUREMENTS: Length: 34" To fit arms 15" around at the widest part.

MATERIALS
[MC] Reyonds Saucy [Cotton; 185 yd/m per 100g skein]; Black: 1 Skeins Crochet Hook H8/5.00 mm Stick Markers

GAUGE
12 sts/6 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch PATTERN NOTES This is a very simple make your own shrug pattern. Determine you gauge and the desired length that you want your shrug to be. Chain number of desired for length. Double Crochet rows until Shrug is 2 inches wider than the widest part of your arm. Measure your back and place marker to indicate where you will be seeming up the arms. Try on the shrug before you seem it all the way up. I plan on making another one a bit longer with some more color. Posted by Maria Theresa at 9:55 PM Labels: crochet shrug, free crochet pattern

English Garden Shrug

The shrug is worked from cuff to cuff in the round, so the only seaming involved is attaching the collar. Instead of just being a long straight tube, a little bit of shaping is used to get a better fit and to eliminate the bumpy, bulging back that you see so often with simple shrugs. I dont feel like writing up a proper pattern for it, but I thought Id share some guidelines that will allow you to make one of your own.

Materials:
5 balls Plymouth Baby Alpaca Brush, [80% Baby Alpaca, 20% Acrylic, 110 yds per 50g ball] J/6mm hook Yarn needle Safety pins or stitch markers

When you begin, be sure to take notes so that you can make the second sleeve match the first! Start by making a chain long enough that when you join it into a circle, if you push it up on your arm like a bracelet it fits up your arm and stops at your elbow. (My number was 35 ch.) To accommodate the pattern stitch, be sure you use an odd number of chains. Join, ch 2, and hdc in every st around. Join rnd. Ch 1, sc in next st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st. Repeat from * around. When you reach the end of the round (the first and last stitches should both be sc), **ch1, skip next sc, sc in next chain space. Repeat from **

around in a continuous spiral until sleeve measures desired length from wrist to elbow. (Its a good idea to measure and mark down the length of this section, even put in a stitch marker for later.) At this point, increase until sleeve can continue comfortably up your arm. (I made 3 increases. Be sure to mark down how many increases you made so that you can mirror them on the other side with decreases.) Increase by making [sc, ch 1, sc] in a chain space. Stack your increases by increasing in the ch-space formed in the previous increase. Only make one increase per round to avoid creating strange bumps. Insert stitch marker. Continue in pattern until your sleeve reaches the bicep. Increase as described previously until sleeve can go comfortably over bicep and shoulder. (I made 10 increases here: be sure to make a note of how many increases you did.) Begin working back and forth, leaving a few stitches (I used 3) unworked to create some space between the edges. Work in pattern for about 1 1/2; any time the pattern stitch would have you begin or end a row with a ch, substitute a sc. Choose one side to be the neck edge, and one side to be the back edge. Begin decreasing at back edge as follows: insert hook in ch-space, pull up loop. Insert hook in next ch-space, pull up loop. Yarn over, pull loop through all loops on hook. Make a decrease in this manner every row along back edge until (when you try it on) the end of the row has come out from under your armpit to sit on your back. Make note of the number of decreases (I made 6), insert stitch marker. Work even in pattern until reaching the place on the opposite shoulder that mirrors where you placed the last marker (be careful, its easy to make this part too long) and increase along back edge as previousy explained to match your decreases. Work even about 1 1/2, chain the same number of stitches you skipped before, and join your work. You should now have the same number of stitches as you did before you split your round. Work 1 round in pattern, decrease as previously described to match the bicep increases on the other side. Work straight until you reach the place equivalent to the stitch marker on the other arm (just above the elbow), decrease to match elbow increases. You should now have the same number of stitches as you began with; work straight in pattern until second sleeve is about 1/4 shorter than first sleeve. Join with a slip stitch, ch 2, hdc around, join rnd. Finish off.

Collar:
Row 1: Ch 32, make 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Hdc across, make another hdc in last ch. (32 sts) Turn. Rows 2-5: Ch 2, hdc inc 2x. Hdc across until 2 sts remain, hdc inc 2x. Turn. Row 6: Sl st 3, sc inc, hdc inc, hdc across until 5 sts remain. Hdc inc, sc inc, sl st. Turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. Row 7: Do not ch, skip sl st, sl st 2. Sc inc, hdc 38, sc inc, sl st in next st. Turn. Row 8: Skip sl st, sl st 3. Sc, hdc 32, sc, sl st. Finish off. Center collar on neck edge, and sew flat side of collar to neck edge. Weave in all ends. And thats it! I hope someone finds this useful.

Crochet DROPS bolero in Cotton Viscose with flower border round the opening.
DROPS number 111-25 Size S - XXXL. " - Summer flirt and party mood. Perfect for all your special occasions!" Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio 250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour no 17, beige And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio 1 spool for all sizes colour no 01, gold for flowers. DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm or size needed to get the width of 4.5 large chloops x the height of 5 large ch-loops = 10 x 10 cm when piece is placed flat. 1 flower = diameter approx 4.5 cm. Max prices as of 02.02.2010: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE - 2.20 GBP per 50 gr skein Color chart for CottonViscose | Yarn alternatives | School of Handcraft | Dictionaries

Pattern talk (41) Note: This pattern is written in British English.

BOLERO:
Work 105-115-125-135-145-155 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm and Cotton Viscose. ROW 1: 1 dc in 15th ch from hook, and continue as follows: *7 ch, skip 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch *, repeat from *-* = 19-21-23-25-27-29 ch-loops on row, turn piece. ROW 2: 14 ch, 1 dc in the middle of the 7 ch in first ch-loop from previous row, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same ch, * 7 ch, 1 dc in the middle ch in next ch-loop, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with: 7 ch, 1 dc in 3rd ch in the last ch-loop, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same ch, 7 ch and 1 dc in 8th ch in the last ch-loop, turn piece. ROW 3: 14 ch, 1 dc in the middle ch in first large loop from previous row, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same ch, * 7 ch, 1 dc in the middle ch in next large ch-loop (skip the small ch-loop), 3 ch, 1 dc in the same ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with: 7 ch, 1 dc in 3rd ch in last large ch-loop, 3 ch, 1 dc in the same ch, 7 ch and 1 dc in 8th

ch in last large ch-loop, turn piece. Repeat row 3, i.e. inc 1 loop on every row, until there are 35-39-43-47-51-55 large ch-loops on row, finish the last row as follows: 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in 4th ch in last ch-loop, turn piece. The inc are now complete. Continue as follows: Beg each row with 7 ch instead of 14, then 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in the middle st in the first large ch-loop from previous row, continue across the row as before and finish with 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in 4th ch in last ch-loop, turn piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm divide for armholes see below! RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Crochet on the first 7-7-7-8-8-9 large ch-loops, turn piece after 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in the last of these 7-7-7-8-8-9 ch-loops, turn with 7 ch and work return row. Continue on remaining ch-loops as before until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm from where piece was divided, cut the thread but leave approx 200 cm to crochet tog the shoulders afterwards. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Crochet on the first 7-7-7-8-8-9 large ch-loops the other side and continue as described for right front piece. BACK PIECE: Crochet on the middle 19-19-19-21-21-23 large ch-loops, each armhole = 1-3-5-5-7-7 large loops. Continue until piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm from where piece was divided make sure to have the same number of ch-loops on back piece as on front piece. ASSEMBLY: Crochet shoulders together as follows: Work sl sts to the middle of the first large ch-loop on front piece, 4 ch, 1 dc in the middle of the first large ch-loop on back piece, 4 ch, 1 dc in the next large loop on front piece, 4 ch, 1 dc in the next large loop on back piece, etc. Crochet a row of dc with Cotton Viscose round the opening of the bolero as follows: approx 4 dc in each of the large ch-loops and 1 dc in each of the small ch-loops, and work 6 dc in the increases on front pieces make sure the row is elastic. Crochet in the same way round armholes. FLOWER: Work 4 ch with crochet hook size 3 mm and 1 thread Cotton Viscose + 2 threads Glitter and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. ROUND 1: 6 dc in ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc. ROUND 2: 4 ch, * 1 dc in next dc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= 6 ch-loops). ROUND 3: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 dc, 3 tr, 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc (= 6 leaves). ROUND 4: Fold leaves towards you and crochet in the back of these as follows: 1 dc round first dc from round 2, 5 ch, * 1 dc round next dc from round 2, 5 ch *, repeat from *-*, and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (= 6 ch-loops). ROUND 5: Crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 dc, 5 tr, 1 dc, finish with 1 sl st in first dc (= 6 leaves), cut the thread and leave approx 20 cm used to sew tog flowers afterwards. Make approx 29-31-35-37-39-41 flowers, and sew them tog, leaf to leaf, to a long row. Now sew the row to bolero, beg mid back. Place the centre of flower on the row of dc and sew the centre of flower to the dc row, repeat for the other flowers down along one front piece, and along bottom edge to mid back. Beg mid back at neckline again and continue to mid back at bottom edge. If you need more/less flowers, adjust this before sewing tog the flowers mid back at bottom edge. Diagram

DROPS number 111-25 We take pride in providing knitting and crochet patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern for measurements and calculations. Go to original pattern for model 111-25. All patterns are carefully reviewed, but we make reservation for possible mistakes. In the case of discrepancies please post your remark in "knitting help" or contact your local Garnstudio retailer.

Girls' Simple Openwork Shrug

We were in NC this past weekend for my niece's wedding. Abby wanted to wear her Caprice Sundress to the brunch the next morning, but she thought her shoulders might be a bit cold. Of course she could have worn her wedding sweater, but she wanted to run and play with her cousins and thought a shrug would be better (and yes, my almost 5 yo dd really voiced all these opinions on her own!). So, this Simple Openwork Shrug was born.

Girl's Simple Openwork Shrug Project details: Hook: Brittany 4.5mm hook Yarn: Classic Elite Flash 'Pink Tweed' Size: This fits my 5 yo who wears mostly sizes 5-6. It was 22 inches x 10 inches before sewing. Pattern: My own - designed to match stitch pattern of NY Yarns Caprice Sundress. Ch 90 , must be a multiple of 4 + 6. Row 1: Dc in 4th chain from hook, (dc in next ch) twice, *ch 1, skip one ch, (dc in next ch) 3 times, repeat from * across. Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), *3 dc in ch-1 space, ch 1, repeat from * across, dc in top of turning ch. Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch-1 space, ch 1, *3 dc in ch-1 space, ch 1, repeat from * across, dc in 3rd ch of turning ch. Repeat rows 2-3, ending with row 2, for a total of 20 rows, or as wide as you need shrug to be. Fold in half, bringing the top of final row to the foundation chain. Holding right sides together, sew 20 stitches in from each end to form sleeves. Weave in ends. Labels: Abby, pattern, shrug

Holey Squares Shrug

by Linda In July 2005, I found it I wanted yet another summer shrug, but crocheted this time (I'd already knitted a couple of them recently). I wanted a nice open stitch pattern that worked up fast, wasn't too hard to memorize and didn't use up too much yarn. The Lacet Stitch, which I'd only ever tried in swatches, fit the bill. There's no ruffle, shaping, cuffs, fringe or other edging on this shrug. Just a rectangle with two seams for the sleeves. The stitch pattern stands on its own, it's so pretty! Oh, the name? Well, the stitch pattern looks to me little little squares (rectangles technically) with holes in the middle. :) You'll need: 2 50g balls TLC Cotton Plus KW, 170 mtrs each, Cream, or other cabled cotton worsted yarn (check out the selection of yarns at joann.com) 4.50 mm hook Gauge is about 3 - 3.25 sts per inch (per 2.5 cm) Lacet Stitch Pattern Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch3, turn. Dc in next sc, (ch2, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch2, skip 2 sc, dc in next sc) across. Dc in last sc. Ch3, turn. Dc in next dc, ch5, (skip next 2 ch, sc, and 2 ch) dc in next dc, (ch5, dc in next dc) across. Dc in last st. Ch3, turn. Dc in next dc, (ch2, skip 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch2, sk 2 ch, dc in next dc) across. Dc in last st. Ch3, turn. Shrug Chain 70. Begin working Lacet st pattern with Row 1 - 69 sts. Work rows 2, 3 and 4 once. Repeat rows 3 and 4 for pattern. End with row 4 after you've worked 26 ovals for short sleeves, 32 ovals for 3/4 or elbow length sleeves. At end of row, ch1 (instead of ch3), turn. For last row, sc in each dc and in each ch st across. Finished piece is about 21.5 - 23.5" wide, (54 - 60cm) and about 45" (115 cm) long for 3/4 sleeves. To begin forming sleeve, sc corner sts together. To seam sleeves together, loosely work 2 sc into each of next 14 ch-3 and dc openings along both edges of fabric. Adjust sleeve seam length as required for proper fit. Work in ends. To make shrug wider or narrower, begin with a chain of a multiple of 6 plus 4 sts. You can leave the shrug flat and wear it as a shawl instead. You'd probably want to make it longer, so you'd need extra yarn.

Kimono Shrug
with

from "Embellished Crochet" by Cari Clement

click to enlarge image Printer Friendly PDF designed by Tammy Hildebrand with Cari Clement In this easy project, the embellishing is done along the fronts where the colors meet. By using different color trims and beads, you can create shrugs to go with as many outfits as you like. TECHNIQUE USED: Crochet

SIZES Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large) FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust 36 (40, 44, 48)"/91.5 (101.5, 112, 122) cmLength 18 1/2"/46.5 cm, all sizes Note: Shrug is loose fitting and designed to be worn as shown in photo. Bust measurements are suggested sizes for a standard fitting garment; choose accordingly. Due to shaping, garment is wider than measurements indicate on schematic.

MATERIALS Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): #9730 Autumn Red (MC), 3 (3, 4, 4) skeins #9711 Dk. Country Blue (CC), 2 (2, 2, 2) skeins One each size US G-6 and J-10 (4 and 6 mm), or size to obtain gauge Yarn needle 1 1/4 yards/118 cm flat braid trim, 3/4"/1.9 cm wide, in color desired (shown in red, with gold metallic threads) 28 textured brass beads, 4 mm x 6 mm 14 bugle beads, 11 mm long, dark red

14 glass beads, in various sizes, no smaller than 6 mm, no larger than 11 mm, dark red Tapestry or beading needle (thin enough to fit through beads) Beading or quilting thread to match braid Sewing needle and thread to match garment Straight pins or small safety pins

GAUGE In Stitch Pattern, 12 sc and 12 rows = 4"/10 cm, using larger hook and MC; in single crochet, 13 sc and 16 rows = 4"/10 cm, using smaller hook and CC

CROCHET STITCHES USED ch: chain sc: single crochet slip st: slip stitch

Stitch Pattern (Multiple of 2 sc + 1) Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and each ch across, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, * ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across, turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st and in each ch-1 space and sc across, turn. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for Stitch pattern.

NOTES 1. Shrug is worked from lower edge of Front, across shoulders to lower edge of Back. 2. Side Front/Sleeve is worked to shoulder; CC panels are then worked on each Front. 3. Back/Sleeves are joined at shoulders to Side Front/Sleeve and CC Panels, then worked down. 4. Cuffs are worked down from lower edge of Sleeves.

LEFT SIDE FRONT/SLEEVE Using larger hook and MC, chain 14 (18, 22, 26). Row 1 (RS): Work Row 1 of Stitch pattern13 (17, 21, 25) sc. Row 2: Work Row 2 of Stitch pattern7 (9, 11, 13) sc; 6 (8, 10, 12) ch-1 spaces. Row 3: Work Row 3 of Stitch pattern13 (17, 21, 25) sc. Rows 4 - 16: Work even in pattern, repeating Rows 2 and 3, end with (WS) Row 2.

Shape Side and Underarm Row 17 (RS): At side edge, ch 1, work [2 sc in first st (increase)], beginning at *, work in pattern to end, turn14 (18, 22, 26) sc. Row 18: Work in pattern across to last st, [ch 1, sc in last st, (increase)], turn 8 (10, 12, 14) sc; 7 (9, 11, 13) ch-1 spaces. Rows 19 - 25: Work in pattern, increasing 1 st at side edge every row, turn22 (26, 30, 34) sc. Row 26: Work in pattern across to last st, ch 1, sc in last st; do NOT turn12 (14, 16, 18) sc; 11 (13, 15, 17) ch-1 spaces.

Sleeve Chain 31, turn. Row 27 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and in next 29 ch; sc in next st and in each sc and ch-1 space to end53 (57, 61, 65) sc. Rows 28 - 42: Work even in pattern, end with a WS row.

Shape Neck Row 43: Work in pattern across to last st, turn, [leaving last st at neck edge unworked (decrease)]52 (56, 60, 64) sc. Row 44: Slip st in next st (decrease), ch 1, sc in same st, work in pattern to end, turn 26 (28, 30, 32) sc; 25 (27, 29, 31) ch-1 spaces remain. Rows 45 - 56: Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st at neck edge every row20 (22, 24, 26) sc; 19 (21, 23, 25) ch-1 spaces remain at shoulder edge.

Fasten off.

Front Panel With RS facing, using smaller hook and CC, join yarn with a sc in first row end of neck (at shoulder edge). Row 1: Sc in each row end along Front edge to lower edge, turn56 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Rows 3 - 18: Work even in sc, repeating Row 2. Fasten off.

RIGHT SIDE FRONT/SLEEVE Using larger hook and MC, chain 14 (18, 22, 26). Work as for left Front for 16 rows, end with (WS) Row 2.

Shape Side and Underarm Row 17 (RS): Work in pattern across to last st, work [2 sc in last st (increase)], turn14 (18, 22, 26) sc. Row 18: Ch 1, sc in first st, [ch 1, sc in next st (increase)], work in pattern to end8 (10, 12, 14) sc; 7 (9, 11, 13) ch-1 spaces. Rows 19 - 26: Work in pattern, increasing 1 st at side edge every row12 (14, 16, 18) sc; 11 (13, 15, 17) ch1 spaces. At front edge, drop yarn, do NOT fasten off.

Sleeve With RS facing, join another strand of MC with a slip st in first st of Row 26 (side edge), chain 30 Fasten off; return to front edge, pick up dropped strand of yarn. Row 27 (RS): Work in pattern across to chain, sc in each ch to end, turn 53 (57, 61, 65) sc. Rows 28 - 42: Work even in pattern, end with a WS row.

Shape Neck Row 43: Slip st in next ch-1 space (decrease), ch 1, sc in same space, work in pattern to end, turn 52 (56, 60, 64) sc.

Row 44: Work in pattern across to last st, turn, leaving last st unworked (decrease)26 (28, 30, 32) sc; 25 (27, 29, 31) ch-1 spaces. Rows 45 - 56: Work in pattern, decreasing 1 st every row20 (22, 24, 26) sc; 19 (21, 23, 25) ch-1 spaces at shoulder edge. F asten off.

Front Panel With RS facing, using smaller hook and CC, join yarn with a sc in first row end at lower edge. Work as for left Front.

BACK Joining RowWith RS facing, using larger hook and MC, join yarn with a slip st in first sc of left Sleeve; ch 1, work in pattern (sc in each sc and ch-1 space) across to left Front Panel; working in row ends, sc in each row end across; chain 17 for Back neck; working in row ends, sc in each row end across right Front Panel; work in pattern to end, turn57 (61, 65, 69) sc each side of chain. Row 2: Work in pattern across to chain; sc in each ch across Back neck; work in pattern to end, turn29 (31, 33, 35) sc; 28 (30, 32, 34) ch-1 spaces each side, 17 sc at center Back. Row 3: Work in pattern (sc in each sc and ch-1 space) across, turn131 (139, 147, 155) sc. Row 4: Work in pattern across all sts66 (70, 74, 78) sc; 65 (69, 73, 77) ch-1 spaces. Rows 5 - 29: Work even in pattern. Fasten off.

Sleeves Row 30 (WS): Skip first 30 sts (Sleeve); join MC with a sc in next st; work in pattern across to last 30 sts, turn, leaving last 30 sts unworked for Sleeve36 (40, 44, 48) sc, 35 (39, 43, 47) ch-1 spaces remain.

Shape Side and Underarm Row 31: Slip st in next ch-1 space, slip st in next st (2 sts decreased); ch 1, sc in same st, work in pattern across to last 2 sts, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked (2 sts decreased)67 (75, 83, 91) sc remain. Row 32: Slip st in next 2 sts (2 sts decreased), ch 1, sc in same st, work in pattern across to last 2 sts, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked (2 sts decreased32 (36, 40, 44) sc, 31 (35, 39, 43) ch-1 spaces remain.

Rows 33 - 38: Continuing in pattern, decrease 2 sts each side every row 6 times, working as for Rows 31 and 3220 (24, 28, 32) sc, 19 (23, 27, 31) ch-1 spaces remain. Rows 39: Work even in pattern39 (47, 55, 63) sc. Rows 40 - 56: Work even in pattern. Fasten off.

FINISHING Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.

Assembly With WS facing each other, sew side and Sleeve seams, matching shaping.

Cuffs Note: Work in joined rows, turning at the end of each row. Row 1: Using smaller hook and CC, join yarn with a sc in row end at seam; sc in each row around, join with a slip st in beginning sc, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with a slip st in beginning sc, turn. Rows 3 - 22: Work even in sc, repeating Row 2. Fasten off.

Lower Edge With WS facing, using smaller hook and CC, working in row ends of lower edge of Front Panel, join yarn with a sc in corner row of right Front Panel; sc in each row end across to Side-Front; change to MC, working in remaining loops of foundation ch, sc in each st across Front; sc in each st across Back; working as for Right Side-Front, work across Left Side-Front; change to CC, work across row ends of Left Front Panel to end. Fasten off.

EMBELLISHING 1. Separate the beads into 3 groups: bugle beads, red glass beads, and brass beads. 2. Measure distance of contrast band from shoulder to lower edge and cut trim accordingly, adding 1/2"/1.3 cm for turn- under.

3. Fold in 1/4"/.6 cm hem at lower edge of trim and stitch. 4. Mark the trim with pins for bead placement. 5. Thread sewing needle with matching thread and bring to RS. Sew on beads as follows: brass bead, bugle bead, glass bead. Repeat in that order for the length of the trim. 6. Pin trim to Kimono over the seam and stitch in place with sewing thread.

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Lady Baron spencer

By Megan Marshall Click for printer friendly version I recently tried the top-down raglan construction in knitting and loved it. I saw no reason why this shouldn't work in crochet as well so I used my favourite basic crochet stitch to create this Regencyinspired Spencer (or cropped cardigan). Photographs: Craig Marshall Model: Megan Marshall Size Sizes: 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52) To fit chest/bust: 70 (80, 90, 100, 110, 120, 130) cm 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52) inches Shown in size 32 Requirements Yarn: Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (12% cashmere/55% wool/33% microfibre, 125m/50g) MC: 4(4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) x 50g balls in Lilac (010) CC: 1(1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2) x 50g balls in Cream (101) Hook: 4.5mm/US7 crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct tension Notions: 1x 17mm/ inch button, yarn needle

Tension 18 sts and 15 rows= 10cm/4inches in half treble crochet Pattern Notes Cardigan will fit bust up to 15cm/6inches larger because of deep V. For a more fitted look, make the size closest to your under-bust measurement. Abbreviations Please note: English crochet terms and abbreviations are used in this pattern. Equivalent US terms may be found here.

Instructions Yoke Foundation row: ch35(39, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57) First row: h tr in to 3rd ch from hook, this counts as a h tr, continue in h tr until end of row. 34(38, 42, 46, 50, 52, 56)sts. Turn work Second row: ch2 (counts as 1 h tr), skip one h tr, 1 h tr into next st, placing marker in completed stitch made, h tr into next 5sts, pm in last stitch made, h tr in next 21(25, 29, 33, 37, 39, 43)sts, pm, h tr in next 5sts, pm, h tr in next st. Turn work Following rows: ch2 skip 1st, h tr until 1st before marker, 2 h tr in st before marker, remove marker, h tr, replace marker in st just made, 2 h tr in st after marker. Repeat until last marker, h tr until end of row. Turn. Repeat last row 21(23, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37) times. Separate sleeves: 1st body row: ch2 (counts as 1 h tr), skip first st, h tr to stitch before marker, skip next 46 (50, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78) sleeve sts, h tr in to st after next marker. Repeat, then continue in h tr to end of row. Turn work. 106(118, 130, 146, 162, 176, 192)sts. Turn work. Second body row: ch2, h tr into first stitch (do not skip first stitch as per previous rows!), h tr to st before last st, 2 h tr in last stitch. 108(120, 132, 148, 164,178, 194)sts. Turn work. Repeat last row 15 times. 138(150, 162, 178, 194, 208, 224)sts. Turn work. Work further 6 rows without any further shaping. Change to CC. First contrast row: ch 2, skip first st, h tr till end of row. Turn work. Second contrast row: ch 2, skip first st, 1h tr, ch 2, h tr in 3rd st, continue in h tr till end of row. Turn work Third contrast row: ch 2, skip first st, h tr till end of row. Sleeves Sleeves are worked flat and then slip stitched together afterwards. Rejoin MC at right hand edge of right sleeve. Work 6 rows of h tr in MC. Change to CC and work 5 rows of h tr in CC Repeat for left sleeve.

Finishing Sew seams of sleeves together using single crochet. Weave in ends. Sew button on to front of cardigan. About the Yarn Baby Cashmerino is a very popular yarn from British designer Debbie Bliss's own yarn range. It is available in the UK from Stash Yarns in Putney, who have just launched their online shop.

About the Designer Megan lives, crochets, knits, designs, spins and blogs in Southern England. She dreams of one day owning a fibre farm in her native Australia. You can find her online at I Saw Her Stranding There. Contact Megan

This pattern is copyright 2008 to Megan Marshall. All rights reserved. Back to top

Maple cross top

crocheted in Zen Skill level: Intermediate

enlarge model Schematic | Abbreviations & Terms

enlarge detail

Yarn used ...

Zen Shown in size Small.

SIZES Directions are for womens size Small. Changes for sizes Medium and Large are in parentheses. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust (closed) 31(37-43). Length 14(14 3/4-15 1/2). Note: All measurements do not include edging. MATERIALS BERROCO ZEN (50 grs), 5(6-7) balls #8257 Sakura Iro. Crochet hook, size 6.00 mm (J) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE. GAUGE One rep of Pat St = 1 1/2; 5 rows = 3 in crocheted pat with size 6.00 mm (J) crochet hook. TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. NOTE This garment is worked in one piece to armholes, then split for back and fronts. BODY With crochet hook, ch 125(149-173). Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, * ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in next ch, ch 2, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch, rep from * across 40(48-56) ch-2 spaces and 21(25-29) dc, ch 1, dc shells. Turn.

Row 2: Sl st into first ch-1 space, ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), dc in same ch-1 space, * ch 2, skip 1 dc and ch-2, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 chs and 1 dc, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch-1 space, rep from * across 40(48-56) ch-2 spaces and 21(25-29) dc, ch 1, dc shells. Turn. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space, * ch 2, skip 1 dc and 2 chs, sc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 chs and 1 dc, sc in next ch-1 space, rep from * across 40(48-56) ch-2 spaces and 41(49-57) scs. Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), dc in first sc, * ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in next sc, ch 2, skip 2 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next sc, rep from * across 40(48-56) ch-2 spaces and 21(25-29) dc, ch 1, dc shells. Turn. Rep Rows 2, 3 and 4 for crocheted pat. Work even until piece measures approximately 6 from beg, end with Row 4. Right Front: Next Row: Work Row 2, repeating from * 4(5-6) times, ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in next dc. Leave the rest of row unworked for back and left front. Turn 9(11-13) ch-2 spaces and 5(6-7) dc, ch 1, dc shells. Work 1 row even. Turn. Shape Neck: Dec Row (RS): Sl st into 1st sc, ch-2 space and next sc, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), * work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next sc, ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, rep from * across, end dc in next sc. Turn. Shape Cap Sleeve: Inc/Dec Row: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), dc in 1st dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, * ch 2, work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch-1 space, ch 2, dc in next dc, rep from * across, end work (dc, ch 1, dc) in last ch-1 space 1 ch-2 space incd at armhole edge and 1 ch-2 space decs at neck edge. Continue in this manner to dec 1 ch-2 space at neck edge 4(5-6) times more and inc 1 ch-2 space at armhole edge once more. When all decs and incs have been worked, work even on 5(6-7) ch-2 spaces and 3(3-4) dc, ch 1, dc shells until armhole measures approximately 7(7 3/4-8 1/2). Fasten off. Back: With RS facing, skip 1 ch-2 space, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc shell, then 1 ch-2 space after right front. Join yarn in next dc on last row of body, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), * work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next ch-1 space, ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in next dc, ch 2, rep from * 8(10-12) times more, end dc in next dc 18(22-26) ch-2 spaces and 9(11-13) dc, ch 1, dc shells. Work even for 2 rows, then inc 1 ch-2 space at each edge twice for cap sleeves in same manner as for right front. Work even on 22(26-30) ch-2 spaces and 11(13-15) dc, ch 1, dc shells until armholes measure same as for right front, ending on same row. Fasten off. Left Front: With RS facing, skip 1 ch-2 space, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc shell, then 1 ch-2 space after back. Join yarn in next dc on last row of body, Work left front to correspond to right front, reversing shaping of neck and cap sleeve. FINISHING Steam piece with hot steam iron and a pressing cloth. Sew shoulder seams. Body Edging: With RS facing, using crochet hook, join yarn in ch-2 space in left front corner on lower edge of back, ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and ch 3), * dc in next ch-2 space, ch 3, rep from * across back; continue to work ch 3, dc along front and neck edges, working into body at even intervals so that the dcs are spaced the same as on lower edge of back, join with a sl st in 3rd st of ch-6. Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), * (dc in next ch, ch 1) 3 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, rep from * around, end (dc in next ch, ch 1) 3 times, join with a sl st in 3rd st of ch-4. Rnd 3: Sl st into 1st ch-1 space, ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 1), * dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, rep from * around, join with a sl st in 3rd st of ch-4. Fasten off. Sleeve Edging: Beg at underarm, work same as body edging. Sash: With crochet hook, make a chain 61(67-73) long making sure to have a multiple of 3 + 9 chs. Row 1: Dc in 9th ch from hook, * ch 3, skip 3 chs, dc in next ch, rep from * across. Edging rnd: Ch 1, work 6 scs into first ch-3 space, * work 3 scs into next ch-3 space, rep from * to the other end of sash, work 9 scs in last ch-3 space, then working on the other side of sash, rep from * around, end work 3 scs in last ch-3 space, join with a sl st in ch-1. Fasten off. Weave sash in and out of Rnd 1 of body edging along lower edge of garment. Tie at front, wrapping as in photo if desired.

Chocolate Shrug
by Linda It's like a sweater without a front, but has also been described as an elephant trunk warmer. :) I used recycled yarn, so the amounts are guesstimated. I purchased a hand knitted sweater at a thrift store and ravelled it out. I didn't try to decrinkle the yarn (is that a word?). I liked the bit of texture and body it added to the swatch. So onward I went with it as is. approx 400g / 600m chunky yarn (I think I was using Paton's Shetland Style Chunky) needles 4.5mm and 5.5mm gauge approx 13.5 sts / 4" and 19 rows / 4" on 5.5mm needles INSTRUCTIONS: With smaller needles, loosely cast on 30 stitches. 1st row: Work 14 rows of k1 p1 ribbing. To increase for next round, change to larger needles. K1, *m1, k2*, repeat between *s across, ending with m1, k1 - total 45 stitches Work even in stocking stitch for 3 rows. 4th row: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. Repeat these 4 rows til 71 sts are on your needle. Knit 3 more rows plain. Place a contrasting thread on first and last stitch of this third row. Your piece should be about 13.5" long. Work even for 36 rows. This section will be about 8" long. Now, chose a fairly stable, non rolling stitch pattern, such as seed stitch, moss stitch or garter stitch. You'll work this pattern for the first and last few stitches of each round. I used garter stitch on the first and last 5 stitches. Work even for approximately 20". I worked 49 garter stitch ridges (98 rows). Now, stop working those edge stitches differently! Continue with plain stocking stitch all the way across for the next 36 rows (about 8", to match section on other side of the edged section). Place contrasting thread on the first and last stitch of your next knit row, then purl 1 row and knit 1 row. Now you're ready to start decreasing to match the increases on the other sleeve. K1, k2tog, knit to within last 3 sts, ssk (or k2tog tbl), k1. Work next 3 rows even. Repeat these 4 rows til 45 sts remain on needle. Switch to smaller needles again. K2tog, p1 across the row. Knit 13 more rows of k1 p1 ribbing and cast off very loosely. Sew sleeve seams from cuff to contrasting thread marker or thereabouts, wherever fits you best.

For the average person, the finished length of the shrug from cuff to cuff should be just short of your height. Too long and it'll fall off your shoulders, too short and you'll find it a struggle to have your arms outstretched in front of you. Each sleeve and body make up about a third of the length. Adjust this ratio to suit if you have a particularly wide back, longer arms, etc.
You can use a stitch other than stocking stitch for the body of the shrug, but nothing with a large repeat or you may run into trouble with the increases and decreases. It should also work well with the edge stitches you chose.

Initially, I thought of doing a symmetrical striped pattern, but with unknown yarn requirements, I would have had to make the two pieces separately, then graft together the 71 stitches on each half down the centre back. I figured I get frustrated enough grafting sock toes, I don't need this kind of self imposed torture. :) I also considered working the sleeves in the round rather than sewing up the seams later, but I wanted to be able to try on the completed garment before deciding exactly how far up to sew the sleeve seams. You'll see what I mean... I purposely included measurements in inches in case you decide you want to use a different yarn weight and will have a different gauge. If you do, you'll probably need to change how often you increase on the first sleeve (and decrease on the second). [Books and Magazines] [Copyright] [Crochet] [Genealogy] [Glossary] [Knit] [Sew] [Holidays] [Privacy] [Recipes] [Craft Supplies] [Shop] [Software] [Tips] [What's New?]

Megan's Hat and Shrug

I made this shrug and hat for a little girl named Megan that we know. Megan is in the 2nd grade and is on the bigger side. I'm not sure what size she is, I measured her arms and went from there. I've also put the hat in the hat section. Megan's shrug K hook and RH pink yarn 5-6 ozs approx. Row 1: Ch 96, in 4th ch from hook, dc, ch 2, 2dc. *Skip 3 sts and then 2dc, ch 2, 2dc in next st. Repeat from * across. End with a dc in the last stitch. Row 2: Ch 3 and turn. *2dc, ch 2, 2dc in next st, skip 3 sts and then 2dc, ch 2, 2dc in next st. Repeat from * across. End with a dc in the last stitch. Row 3-11: Repeat Row 2. Leaving a long tail to sew up arm seam, fasten off. Sew up arm seams on both sides. I basically sewed up 5 shells up on both sides. Weave in ends. Megan's Hat K hook and ww pink and white yarn Ch 4, sl st to form ring. Round 1: Ch 3 (count as first dc), 2 dc inside ring, ch 1, *3dc in ring, ch 1. Repeat from * 3 more times. (12 dc, 4 ch 1 spaces) Round 2: Sl st in next dc, ch2, 2dc in same stitch, ch 1, *3dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, skip next dc, 3dc in next dc, ch 1. Repeat around. 3 dc in last ch 1 sp, ch 1, join to third ch of beg ch3. (24 dc, 8 ch 1 spaces) Round 3: Repeat row 2. (48 dc, 16 ch 1 spaces) Round 4: Sl st in each of next 2 dc and in next ch sp, ch 2, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1. *3dc in next ch sp, ch 1. Repeat from * around. Sl st to third ch of beg ch 3. Round 5-10: Repeat Round 4. Round 11: 2 sc in each st around. Round 12: Sc in each st around. Round 13: Sc in each st around. Round 14: Sc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends. 2006 Christina Budd

Petals stitch shrug

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MATERIALS: 3.25 mm crochet hook 10.5 oz of fingering weight cotton yarn (approx) in the desired color SIZE CHART
Womans size 1. Bust (in.) 2. Center Back Neck-to-Cuff 3. Back Waist Length 4. Cross Back (Shoulder to Shoulder) 5. Sleeve Length to Underarm Womans (cont.) 1. Bust (in.) 2. Center Back Neck to Cuff 3. Back Waist Length 4. Cross Back (Shoulder to Shoulder) 5. Sleeve Length to Underarm 1X 4446 3131 17 17 17 X-Small 2830 2727 16 1414 16 2X 4850 3132 18 18 18 Small 3234 2828 17 1415 17 3X 5254 3233 18 18 18 Medium 3638 2929 17 1616 17 4X 5658 3233 18 18 18 Large 4042 3030 17 1717 17 5X 6062 3333 18 18 18

GAUGE 1 row ( 1 petal ) = 1 inch / 1 petal (horizontal) = 1 inch ABBREVIATIONS Sc: single crochet

Dc: Double Crochet

Ch: Chain

STITCHES USED Dtr (Double Treble crochet) hook 3 times, insert hook in st , draw lp through [ yo draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times

Dtcl (Double Treble Cluster) - (Dtr into same st, not drawing the hook through the last loopof the dtr) 3 times. 3 loops on hook.

Dtcls together - yo hook, draw a lp through all loops on hook (usually 6 or 9 loops), work one final chain tightly to hold them all together Petal 1: 6 ch (counts as first dtr ), 2 dtcls together, inserting the hook in first ch of the 6 made at the beginning (dont hold them together yet, leave the 3 loops on the hook ) Petal 2: 3 dtcls together, (leaving the last loop of each dtcl undone, leave the 3 loops on the hook )

INSTRUCTIONS
(FOR SIZES FROM XSMALL TO 5X) INSTRUCTIONS FOR XS (EXTRA SMALL) SIZE 100 chains Row 1: sc on each chain Row 2: Make a petal 1. Skip 4 scs of row 1, petal 2 into next sc (A), (you should have 6 loops on hook at this point) work a chain to hold the 6 loops together (B). [petal 1, petal 2 into same sc as penultimate petal you made, skip 6 scs, make a petal 2 into next sc, there should be 9 loops on hook at this point (C). Work a chain to hold all the loops together ] x times . At end of row: petal 1, petal 2 into same sc as penultimate petal you made, skip 4 scs, Dtr into last sc leaving the last loop unworked, there should be 7 loops on hook at this point. Work a chain to hold all the loops together (D). Turn.

Row 3: 6 ch (counts as a Dtr) , work petal 1 on top of 6 ch you just made (E), work petal 2 into center of first flower from previous row, petal 2 into center of next flower from previous row, there are 9 loops on hook (F), work a chain through all of them (G). [ petal 1, work a petal 2 into same st as penultimate petal you made (at center of flower from previous row), petal 2 into center of next flower from previous row, work a chain through the 9 loops on hook to hold them together ] repeat until end of row (H). Turn.

Row 4: work a petal 1 into center of first flower from previous row working a ch through the 3 loops of the petal, work petal 1 on top of the petal you made previously, work petal 2 into center of first flower from previous row, petal 2 into center of next flower from previous row, there are 9 loops on hook (i), work a chain through all of them. [ petal 1, work a petal 2 into same st as penultimate petal you made (at center of flower from previous row), petal 2 into center of next flower from previous row, work a chain through the 9 loops on hook to hold them together ] repeat until end of row. At end of row work petal 1, petal 2 at center of last flower from previous row, Dtr into 6th ch from the 6 chs made at the beginning of previous row, there should be 7 loops on hook, hold them together working a chain through all of them (J). Turn.

Row 5 60: Work odd rows as row 3, work even rows as row 4 Row 61: sc on each st. Finish off. INSTRUCTIONS FOR S (SMALL) SIZE 107 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 62: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 63: sc on each st. Finish off. INSTRUCTIONS FOR M (MEDIUM) SIZE 107 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 64: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 65: sc on each st. Finish off. INSTRUCTIONS FOR L (LARGE) SIZE 114 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 65: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 66: sc on each st. Finish off. INSTRUCTIONS FOR 1X SIZE 121 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 68: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 69: sc on each st. Finish off.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR 2X SIZE 121 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 69: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 70: sc on each st. Finish off. INSTRUCTIONS FOR 3X SIZE 128 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 71: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 72: sc on each st. Finish off.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR 4X SIZE 135 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 69: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 70: sc on each st. Finish off. INSTRUCTIONS FOR 5X SIZE 142 chains Row 2: sc on each chain. Row 3 - 72: Work odd rows as row 3 of xsmall size, work even rows as row 4 of xsmall size instructions. Row 73: sc on each st. Finish off.

FINISHING

1) Fold rectangle in half (point A matching point D and E matching F). 2) Measure from the center of the rectangle (distance Y)/2 (see table below), place marks with a piece of yarn in contrasting color at both sides of the rectangle (points B,C, B1 and C1). Example: for xsmall size you should measure from center 22 (distance Y) / 2 = 11 inches Approximate rectangle finished size: SIZE WIDTH LENGTH DISTANCE Y (inches) (inches) (inches) XSmall 14 55 22 Small 15 57 23 Medium 15 59 25 Large 16 61 26 1X 17 63 28 2X 17 64 28 3X 18 66 30 4X 19 66 30 5X 20 67 30 3) Unfold the rectangle and fold lengthwise this time. Using a tapestry needle and a long tail sew sleeve up, joining points B-B1 to A-E, do the same at the other side (C-C1 to D-F). Weave in ends.

Edging
4) Crochet an edging of 2 rows of Sc around the hole formed by points B-B1 to C-C1. To finish make an edge as follow: *10 ch, sc into next sc, repeat until you get to the starting point. Weave in ends. Edge sleeves the same way.

Summer Coverup Crochet Shrug

It drapes like a shawl, but it's actually a shrug, crocheted with two strands of worsted weight yarn on a Q hook. Have fun crocheting this Make It Quick pattern: for a tweed look, blend different solid colors or variegated shades, and for added texture, mix a brushed yarn with a smooth. MATERIALS Worsted weight yarn: 10.5 (10.5, 10.5)oz. Color A Worsted weight yarn: 10.5 (10.5, 10.5) oz. Color B Hooks: Size K and Q or size to obtain gauge. Please note: Yarn usage may vary depending on the type of yarn you select or on your particular yarn techniques. GAUGE In double crochet with size Q hook, 5 stitches = 3" FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Finished Size: 57 (61, 65)" from cuff to cuff; 26" wide. NOTE: 1. Use size Q hook for main section and cuffs of Shrug. 2. Cuffs are 4" wide each and are worked last. 3. Use one strand each of A and B held together throughout. 4. Picot edging is worked on top edge only with size K hook. SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS Fpdc: Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch and complete double crochet. Bpdc: Yo, insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch and complete double crochet. Dc dec: Keeping last loop of each on hook, work double crochet in next 2 stitches, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook. Main Section: With size Q hook, chain (ch) 41. Row 1 (Right Side): Double crochet (dc) in 4th single crochet (sc) from hook and in each ch across; turn -39 stitches (sts). Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), working in front loop only across, work 2 dc in next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch; turn -- 41 sts. Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), working in back loop only across, work 2 dc in next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch; turn -- 43 sts. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), working in front loop only, dc in next and every st across; turn. Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), working in back loop only, dc in next and every st across; turn. Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until approximately 46.5 ( 50.5, 54.5)" from beginning, ending after a repeat of Row 4. Dec Row 1 (Right Side): Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), working in back loop only across, dc decrease (dec), dc to last 3 sts, dc dec, dc in top of turning ch turn -- 41 sts. Dec Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), working in front loop only across, dc dec, dc to last 3 sts, dc dec, dc in top of turning ch; turn -- 39 sts. Cuff Row 1 (Right Side): Ch 3 fpdc in next dc, (skip next dc, bpdc in next dc, skip 2 dc, fpdc in next dc, skip next dc, bpdc in next dc, skip next dc, fpdc in next dc) 4 times; turn leaving remaining st unworked -- 17 sts. Row 2: Ch 3,* fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st; repeat from * across; turn leaving turning ch unworked -- 16 sts. Row 3: Ch 3, * bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st; repeat from * across, bpdc in last st; turn leaving turning ch unworked -- 15 sts. Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), * bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st; repeat from * across; turn leaving turning

ch unworked. Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off. Work 2nd Cuff in same manner on opposite side of Main section beginning edge. FINISHING Sew cuff seams leaving side of Main Section open. Picot edging: With size K hook and working from cuff-to-cuff on one long edge only of Main Section (this will become top of shrug), * 2 sc in side of 1st row, at ridge work (sc, ch 3 slip stitch in sc just made for picot); repeat from * across ending with 2 sc in side of last row. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Crochet Shrug
SIZES To fit Small (30-32 chest), Medium (34-36 chest), Large (38-40 chest). Directions are for smallest size with larger sizes in parentheses. If there is only one figure, it applies to all sizes. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS sleeve width at top of arm 21 (22, 23)/53 (56, 58.5)cm center back neck to cuff 29 1/2 (30 1/2, 31 1/2)/75 (77.5, 80)cm MATERIALS four, 5 oz./140g skeins (each approximately 253 yds/228m) of worsted weight yarn Size P (11.5mm) crochet hook OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE GAUGE 6 sts and 7 rounds to 4"/10cm using size P (11.5mm) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together. 6 sts and 8 rows to 4"/10cm using size P (11.5mm) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together. TO INSURE PROPER SIZE, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. Note: Garment sleeves worked in rounds; back worked in rows. FIRST SLEEVE With size P (11.5mm) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, chain (ch) 14 (14, 16) loosely. Join with slip stitch (sl st) and work 1 round (rnd) single crochet (sc). Rnd 2: Sc 7 (7, 8), ch1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnd 3: Sc 15 (15, 17). Rnd 4: Sc 7 (7, 8), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnds 5-7: Sc 17 (17, 19). Rnd 8: Sc 8 (8, 9), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 8 (8, 9). Rnds 9-11: Sc 19 (19, 21). Rnd 12: Sc 9 (9, 10), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 9 (9, 10). Rnds 13-15: Sc 21 (21, 23). Rnd 16: Sc 10 (10, 11), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 10 (10, 11). Rnd 17: Sc 23 (23, 25). Rnd 18: Sc 11 (11, 12), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 11 (11, 12). Rnd 19: Sc 25 (25, 27). Rnd 20: Sc 12 (12, 13), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 12 (12, 13). Rnd 21: Sc 27 (27, 29). Rnd 22: Sc 13 (13, 14), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 13 (13, 14). Rnd 23: Sc 29 (29, 31). Rnd 24: Sc 14 (14, 15), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 14 (14, 15). Rnd 25: Sc 31 (31, 33). Rnd 26: Sc 15 (15, 16), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 15 (15, 16). Rnd 27: Sc 33 (33, 35). Rnd 28: Sc 16 (16, 17), ch 0 (1, 1), sc 1, ch 0 (1, 1), sc 16 (16, 17). Rnds 29-31: Sc 33 (35, 37). Ch 1, turn. Wrong Side (WS) row: Skip 1st stitch, sc 33 (35, 37) working last sc into same st as 1st stitch of row, ch 1, turn. Right Side (RS) row: Skip 1st stitch, sc 33 (35, 37), ch 1, turn. WS row: Skip 1st st, sc 33 (35, 37), ch 1, turn. Continue working sc in rows until length from sleeve top measures 19 (21, 23)/ 48 (50.5, 53) cm, ending with WS row.

SECOND SLEEVE Next (RS) row: Sc 32 (34, 36), 2 sc in 1st stitch of row to join to work in rnds (beg of rnd is between these last 2 sts). Rnds 1-3: Sc 33 (35, 37). Rnd 4: Sc 15 (16, 17), sk 0 (1, 1), sc 1, sk 0 (1, 1), sc 15 (16, 17). Rnd 5: Sc 33 (33, 35). Rnd 6: Sc 15 (15, 16), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 15 (15, 16). Rnd 7: Sc 31 (31, 33). Rnd 8: Sc 14 (14, 15), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 14 (14, 15). Rnd 9: Sc 29 (29, 31). Rnd 10: Sc 13 (13, 14), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 13 (13, 14). Rnd 11: Sc 27 (27, 29). Rnd 12: Sc 12 (12, 13), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 12 (12, 13). Rnd 13: Sc 25 (25, 27). Rnd 14: Sc 11 (11, 12), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 11 (11, 12). Rnd 15: Sc 23 (23, 25). Rnd 16: Sc 10 (10, 11), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 10 (10, 11). Rnds 17-19: Sc 21 (21, 23). Rnd 20: Sc 9 (9, 10), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 9 (9, 10). Rnds 21-23: Sc 19 (19, 21). Rnd 24: Sc 8 (8, 9), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 8 (8, 9). Rnds 25-27: Sc 17 (17, 19). Rnd 28: Sc 7 (7, 8), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnd 29: Sc 15 (15, 17). Rnd 30: Sc 7 (7, 8), sk 1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnd 31: Sc 14 (14, 16), end rnd with sl st. Cut yarn and darn in ends.

Plush Long Sleeved Shrug

by Christina Budd (2006)

This goes with the Cream Plush Tank Top and Blue Plush Skirt that I made earlier this year. Materials H hook for shrug rectangle I hook for shell border 1 skein of Red Heart Plush yarn Gauge: 7 dc = 2 inches Measurements: Rectangle- 9 1/2" wide before folding and sewing arms seams. 33 1/4" long from wrist to wrist. Size: approximately a size 4. Special Stitch: front cross-stitch. For extra help, go to this link: Row 1: Ch 111, dc in Back Loops Only in the 4th ch from the hook. Dc across. Turn. Row 2: Ch 3, *skip next st, dc in next st, working around the front of the last st made, dc in skipped st. Repeat from * across. End with a dc in the last st. Turn. Row 3: Ch 3, dc in each st across. Turn. Row 4: Repeat Row 2. Row 5: Repeat Row 3. Row 6: Repeat Row 2. Row 7: Repeat Row 3. Row 8: Repeat Row 2. Row 9: Repeat Row 3. Row 10: Repeat Row 2. Row 11: Repeat Row 3. Row 12: Repeat Row 2. Row 13: Repeat Row 3.

Row 14: Repeat Row 2. Row 15: Repeat Row 3. Row 16: Repeat Row 2. Row 17: Repeat Row 3. Fasten off. Fold into a lengthwise rectangle and sew up 10 inches on either arm seam. Wrists Ruffle: Attach yarn with a sl st to edge of wrist. Ch 4, sc in next st. Repeat around. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat to the other wrist. Now use a "I" hook. Attach yarn to inside arm seam with a sl st. (You will now work on the inside ruffle.) Round 1: Sc in each st around. Sl st tog. Round 2: Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2dc all in the same st. *Skip 2 sts, 2dc, ch2, 2dc in next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st tog. Round 3: Sl st over to ch 2 sp, ch 3, dc, ch2, 2dc. *In between the shells, 2dc, ch2, 2dc. Then in the next ch 2 sp from the previous round, 2dc, ch2, 2dc. Repeat from * around. You are increasing on this round. Round 4: Sl st over to ch 2 sp, ch 3, dc, ch2, 2dc. Then in the next ch 2 sp from the previous round, 2dc, ch2, 2dc. Repeat from * around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Waistcoat [shrug] in Muskat

Yarn weight DK / 8 ply (11 wpi) Gauge 17 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches in double crochet (US); treble crochet (UK) Hook size 4.0 mm (G) Yardage 654 - 872 yards (598 - 797 m) Sizes available S/M - L - XL - XXL/XXXL Note: This pattern is written in American English. CROCHET INFO: Back piece: Replace first dc on each row with 3 ch. Edge piece: Replace first sc on each round with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in the last ch from beg of previous round. Replace first dc on each round with 3 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in last ch from beg of previous round. INCREASING TIP: Inc by working 2 sts in 1 st. --------------------------------------------------BACK PIECE: Crochet 78-86-94-99 loose ch with hook size 4 mm / G/6 and Muskat. Crochet 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from ** and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 2-2-2-3 ch = 58-64-70-74 dc. Continue with 1 dc in each dc. When piece measures 7 cm / 2'' inc 1 dc each side see INCREASING TIP, and repeat the inc when piece measures 15 cm / 6'' = 62-68-74-78 dc. Continue until piece measures 22-23-24-25 cm / 8 3/4"-9"-9"-9 3/4". EDGE PIECE: Crochet 1 dc in each dc along top of back piece, ch 56-58-60-64, 1 dc in each dc along bottom of back piece, ch 56-58-60-64 and finish with 1 sl st in first dc on the top of back piece. Now crochet 1 dc in each dc from back piece and around each ch band crochet 42-44-46-48 dc = 204-220236-248 dc in total. Continue in the round as follows: ROUND 1: 1 dc in first dc, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* and finish with ch 1, skip 1 dc and 1 sl st in dc at beg of round. ROUND 2: 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch. ROUND 3: 1 sc in each sc. Repeat these 3 rounds, AT THE SAME TIME when edge measures 5, 10 and 15 cm / 2", 4" and 6'' (adjust to a row of sc) inc 34-34-34-36 sc evenly on round see INCREASING TIP = 306-322-338-356 sc. When edge

measures 17-18-19-20 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-7"-8" (adjust so that next row is a row of sc) crochet 1 row with sc, AT THE SAME TIME inc 0-1-2-1 sc evenly = 306-323-340-357 sc. Now continue in M.1. NOTE! Beg on row marked with 1 in diagram. Work 1 vertical repeat of M.1, cut and fasten thread.

Explanation to pattern diagram

= dc = ch = sc = Crochet 1 dc, but wait with last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 more dc in the same st, but wait with last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), work 1 more dc in the same st and when doing the last pullthrough pull thread through all sts on hook.

Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm. All measures are from side to side.

Modification for sleeves

Modification and Notes

Scallops will also feature in the sleeves in a two dc, then scallop around pattern. Mods: Worsted/Aran Yarn with 5.0mm hook, made the S/M size for myself (who I would normally term large/xl) and it fits perfectly with a gauge of 6 rows and 14dc (American) to 10cm square. Where the pattern calls for chaining for the sleeve holes, ignored the instructions (as they give you a HUGE flappy arm area) and went with ch 36 instead for each arm hole.

Optional sleeves
3/4 length sleeves added by sc in each dc end and in between each dc on chain around. Each row is worked by starting with ch4, then 2dc in next 2sts, ch1, sk 1st repeated all the way around, then sl st into 3rd ch to join. Started with 21 2dc clusters - and decreased to 16 2dc clusters evenly over the first seven rows. Sleeves are 25 rows in total, plus a final scallop/shell edge.

Simple Crochet Shrug by Lion Brand Yarn

Lion Brand Homespun Pattern #: 90689AD

SKILL LEVEL: Easy SIZE: One Size Finished Size 44 x 38 (112 x 96.5) to 42 x 38 (106.5 x 96.5) CORRECTIONS: (applied Oct 20, 2010)

Finished Size 44 x 38 (112 x 96.5) to 42 x 38 (106.5 x 96.5) FINISHING Fold piece in half to measure 22 21 x 38 in. (53.5 x 96.5 cm). Place markers on each of the 22 21 in. (56 53.5 cm) sides, 7 in. (18 cm) below fold for armholes. Seam sides from markers down to lower edge. Weave in ends.

The above is only a summary of corrections; the corrected pattern text is below (if free) or shipped upon completion of order (if purchased)

MATERIALS

790-393 Homespun Yarn: Cream 4 balls Crochet Hook - Size N-13 Split Ring Stitch Markers Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE: 8 sts = about 4 in. (10 cm). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles. NOTES:

Large hook is used to create an open fabric that will easily stretch to fit a range of sizes. Stitch markers should be of the split-ring variety.

SHRUG Ch 85. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across 84 sts. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, working in back loops only, sc in each st across. Repeat Row 2 until piece measures about 38 in. (96.5 cm) from beginning. FINISHING Fold piece in half to measure 21 x 38 in. (53.5 x 96.5 cm). Place markers on each of the 21 in. (53.5 cm) sides, 7 in. (18 cm) below fold for armholes. Seam sides from markers down to lower edge. Weave in ends. Comments: I made this for my mom for Mother's Day. I altered it a little and chained 100 just because she likes things to hit her wrists. I also tacked down the the back to give it an official top and bottom with a collar.

Giant hook crochet shrug

This hot fashion item can be worked up in a weekend or a few evenings. Two strands held together and a giant hook make it quick and there is absolutely no finishing.
SIZES To fit Small (30-32 chest), Medium (34-36 chest), Large (38-40 chest). Directions are for smallest size with larger sizes in parentheses. If there is only one figure, it applies to all sizes. FINISHED MEASUREMENTS sleeve width at top of arm 21 (22, 23)/53 (56, 58.5)cm center back neck to cuff 29 1/2 (30 1/2, 31 1/2)/75 (77.5, 80)cm MATERIALS four, 5 oz./140g skeins (each approximately 253 yds/228m) of worsted weight yarn Size P (11.5mm) crochet hook OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE GAUGE 6 sts and 7 rounds to 4"/10cm using size P (11.5mm) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together. 6 sts and 8 rows to 4"/10cm using size P (11.5mm) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together. TO INSURE PROPER SIZE, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

Note: Garment sleeves worked in rounds; back worked in rows.

FIRST SLEEVE With size P (11.5mm) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together, chain (ch) 14 (14, 16) loosely. Join with slip stitch (sl st) and work 1 round (rnd) single crochet (sc). Rnd 2: Sc 7 (7, 8), ch1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnd 3: Sc 15 (15, 17). Rnd 4: Sc 7 (7, 8), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnds 5-7: Sc 17 (17, 19). Rnd 8: Sc 8 (8, 9), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 8 (8, 9). Rnds 9-11: Sc 19 (19, 21). Rnd 12: Sc 9 (9, 10), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 9 (9, 10). Rnds 13-15: Sc 21 (21, 23). Rnd 16: Sc 10 (10, 11), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 10 (10, 11). Rnd 17: Sc 23 (23, 25). Rnd 18: Sc 11 (11, 12), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 11 (11, 12). Rnd 19: Sc 25 (25, 27). Rnd 20: Sc 12 (12, 13), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 12 (12, 13). Rnd 21: Sc 27 (27, 29). Rnd 22: Sc 13 (13, 14), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 13 (13, 14). Rnd 23: Sc 29 (29, 31). Rnd 24: Sc 14 (14, 15), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 14 (14, 15). Rnd 25: Sc 31 (31, 33). Rnd 26: Sc 15 (15, 16), ch1, sc 1, ch1, sc 15 (15, 16). Rnd 27: Sc 33 (33, 35). Rnd 28: Sc 16 (16, 17), ch 0 (1, 1), sc 1, ch 0 (1, 1), sc 16 (16, 17). Rnds 29-31: Sc 33 (35, 37). Ch 1, turn.

Wrong Side (WS) row: Skip 1st stitch, sc 33 (35, 37) working last sc into same st as 1st stitch of row, ch 1, turn. Right Side (RS) row: Skip 1st stitch, sc 33 (35, 37), ch 1, turn. WS row: Skip 1st st, sc 33 (35, 37), ch 1, turn. Continue working sc in rows until length from sleeve top measures 19 (21, 23)/ 48 (50.5, 53) cm, ending with WS row. SECOND SLEEVE Next (RS) row: Sc 32 (34, 36), 2 sc in 1st stitch of row to join to work in rnds (beg of rnd is between these last 2 sts). Rnds 1-3: Sc 33 (35, 37). Rnd 4: Sc 15 (16, 17), sk 0 (1, 1), sc 1, sk 0 (1, 1), sc 15 (16, 17). Rnd 5: Sc 33 (33, 35). Rnd 6: Sc 15 (15, 16), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 15 (15, 16). Rnd 7: Sc 31 (31, 33). Rnd 8: Sc 14 (14, 15), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 14 (14, 15). Rnd 9: Sc 29 (29, 31). Rnd 10: Sc 13 (13, 14), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 13 (13, 14). Rnd 11: Sc 27 (27, 29). Rnd 12: Sc 12 (12, 13), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 12 (12, 13). Rnd 13: Sc 25 (25, 27). Rnd 14: Sc 11 (11, 12), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 11 (11, 12). Rnd 15: Sc 23 (23, 25). Rnd 16: Sc 10 (10, 11), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 10 (10, 11). Rnds 17-19: Sc 21 (21, 23). Rnd 20: Sc 9 (9, 10), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 9 (9, 10). Rnds 21-23: Sc 19 (19, 21). Rnd 24: Sc 8 (8, 9), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 8 (8, 9). Rnds 25-27: Sc 17 (17, 19). Rnd 28: Sc 7 (7, 8), sk 1, sc 1, sk 1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnd 29: Sc 15 (15, 17). Rnd 30: Sc 7 (7, 8), sk 1, sc 7 (7, 8). Rnd 31: Sc 14 (14, 16), end rnd with sl st. Cut yarn and darn in ends.