GILGIT BALTISTAN

A Brief overview of the region

GILGIT-BALTISTAN
Research and Composed By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Baltistani.
Department Of Computer Science Sir Syed University Of Engineering And Technology Karachi

Mohammad Sharif Wali Baltistani

Brief Introduction:

Student Department Of Computer Science SSUET Karachi

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

3 Gilgit-Baltistan is a non-self-governing territory under Pakistani control. The territory, which does not constitutionally form part of Pakistan proper, was formerly known as the Northern Areas .It is the northernmost political entity within the Pakistani-controlled part of the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir. It borders Afghanistan to the north, China to the northeast, the Pakistani-administered state of Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK) to the south, and the Indian-administered state of Jammu and Kashmir to the southeast. The territory became a single administrative unit in 1970 under the name "Northern Areas" and was formed by the amalgamation of the Gilgit Agency, the Baltistan District of the Ladakh Wazarat, and the states of Hunza and Nagar. With its administrative center at the town of Gilgit, Gilgit-Baltistan covers an area of 72,971 km (28,174 mi) and has an estimated population approaching 1,000,000. as different from the disputed areas of Kashmir, the people of this region got the independence from the Dogra Raj in 1948, one year after the independence of Pakistan and called the Pakistani Govt. to take control of the region. The Pakistani Govt. took control of the region, but couldnt give proper citizenship rights to the people. After more than sixty years, the people of the region has been demanding their basic rights, but the Pakistani Govt. has been failed to take proper action over the situation of this remote region.

History:
Before the independence of Pakistan and the partition of India in 1947, Maharaja Hari Singh extended his rule to Gilgit and Baltistan. After the partition, Jammu and Kashmir, in its entirety, remained an independent state. The Pakistani parts of Kashmir to the north and west of the cease-fire line established at the end of the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947, or the Line of Control as it later came to be called, were divided into the Northern Areas (72,971 km) in the north and the Pakistani

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

state of Azad Kashmir (13,297 km) in the south. The name "Northern Areas" was first used by the United Nations to refer to the northern areas of Kashmir. The people of this remote region were liberated from the Dogra regime of the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir on 1 November 1947 without any external assistance and then became citizens of a self-liberated and very short-lived independent state. The new state asked the government of Pakistan to provide it with necessary assistance with which to conduct its affairs, as it did not have the necessary administrative infrastructure of its own. The government of Pakistan accepted the request took control of the territory's administration as its first appointed political agent. But the govt couldnt provide particular attention to the region. Several political parties has been ruling the country, but still this region is far beyound the other parts of the country.

Autonomous status and present-day Gilgit-Baltistan

On 29 August 2009, the Gilgit-Baltistan Empowerment and Self-Governance Order 2009, was passed by the Pakistani cabinet and later signed by the President. It granted self-rule to the people of the former Northern Areas, now renamed "Gilgit-Baltistan," by creating, among other things, an elected legislative assembly. But it will be another big joke to the local people if the Govt. fails to give proper seats in the National Assembly and Senate.

Geography
Gilgit-Baltistan borders the Wakhan corridor of Afghanistan to the northwest, China's Uygur Autonomous Region of Xinjiang to the northeast, the Indian-controlled state of Jammu and Kashmir to the south and southeast, the Pakistani-controlled state of Azad Jammu and Kashmir to the south, and Pakistan's North-West Frontier Province to the west. Until the war in North-West Pakistan, Gilgit-Baltistan was a major destination for foreign tourists, especially serious mountaineers, because it is home to five of the "eight-thousanders" and to more than fifty peaks above 7000 meters. Gilgit and Skardu are the two main hubs for expeditions to those mountains. The region is home to some of the world's highest mountain rangesthe main ranges are the Karakoram and the western Himalayas. The Pamir mountains are to the north, and the Hindu Kush lies to the west. Amongst the highest mountains are K2 (Mount Godwin-Austen) and Nanga Parbat, the latter being one of the most feared mountains in the world.

Subdivisions:
Gilgit-Baltistan is administratively divided into two divisions which, in turn, are divided into seven districts, including the two Baltistan districts of Skardu and Ghanche, and the five Gilgit districts of Gilgit, Ghizer, Diamer, Astore, and Hunza-Nagar. The main political centers are the towns of Gilgit and Skardu.

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

Data About The area and Population: Division Baltistan District Ghanche Skardu Gilgit Astore Diamir Ghizar Gilgit Hunza-Nagar Gilgit-Baltistan total 7 districts 72,971 970,347 Area (km) 9,400 18,000 8,657 10,936 9,635 39,300 Population (1998) 88,366 214,848 71,666 131,925 120,218 383,324 Headquarters Khaplu Skardu Gorikot Chilas Gahkuch Gilgit

Demographics
The population consists of many diverse linguistic, ethnic, and religious groups, due in part to the many isolated valleys separated by some of the world's highest mountains. Urdu is the lingua franca of the region, understood by most male inhabitants. The Shina language (with several dialects) is the language of 40% of the population, spoken mainly in Gilgit, throughout Diamer, and in some parts of Ghizer. The Balti dialect, a sub-dialect of Ladakhi and part of Tibetan language group, is spoken by the entire population of Baltistan. Minor languages spoken in the region include Wakhi, Khowar Burushaski ,and Domaaki. People who live in Gilgit-Baltistan, despite that region's being referred to as part of Kashmir, do not speak Kashmiri or any of its dialects. At the last census (1998), the population of Gilgit-Baltistan was 870,347.Approximately 14% of the population was urban.

Regions:
The Federally Administered Northern Areas is divided into two divisions--the Baltistan Division and the Gilgit Division--which together comprise seven districts.

Baltistan Region

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

6 The Baltistan Region consists of two districts: Skardu District Skardu town is the administrative center of the Skardu District. Askole is the last settlement in the district for all treks to Concordia (the confluence of the Baltoro Glacier and the Godwin-Austen Glacier). Skardu is the district where the Indus River enters the Northern Areas from the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir at the Kharmang Side.

Ghanche District The Ghanche District is the easternmost district of Baltistan. To its east is the Leh District of Ladakh, northeast is Aksai Chin, (China), to the north and northwest is the Skardu District, to the west is the Astore District, and to the south is the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. The administrative center of the Ghanche District is Khaplu. The Hushe valleys form the gateway to the great Baltoro Muztagh, the sub-range of the Karakoram.

Gilgit Division
The Gilgit Division now consists of five districts: Astore District The Astore District was recently carved out of the Diamir District. Previously, the Northern Areas was divided into five districts. The administrative center of the Astore District is Astore town and it includes many villages in the Astore valley. The Astore District is bounded by the Diamir District to the west and the Skardu District to the east.

Diamir District The Diamir District is the district where the Karakoram Highway enters the Northern Areas from Pakistan's North-West Frontier Province. Chilas is the administrative center of the Diamir District. The Diamir District is bounded by the Astore District to the east, Pakistan's North-West Frontier Province to the south and southwest, the Ghizar District to the north and northwest, and the Gilgit District to the north and northeast. Ghizar District The Ghizar District is the westernmost district of the Northern Areas. It is bound by Pakistan's North-West Frontier Province on three sides (north, west, and south), by the Diamir District to the south and southeast, and by the Gilgit District to the east. A small strip of Ghizar District (roughly 35 x 12 km) is sandwiched between the North-West Frontier Province and the Wakhan Corridor of (Afghanistan). Gakuch is the administrative center of the Ghizar District. Gilgit District The Gilgit District is bounded by the Wakhan Corridor of (Afghanistan) to the north, the Xinjiang autonomous region of (China) to the north and northeast, and the Skardu District to the south and southeast. Gilgit town is the administrative center of the Gilgit District. Gilgit is one of the two major hubs in the Northern Areas for all mountaineering expeditions to the peaks of the Karakoram and the Himalayas. Hunza-Nagar District The Hunza-Nagar District is a newly formed district which was previously part of the Gilgit District. The district encompasses the Hunza and Nagar valleys. The major town is Karimabad (actually a grouping of five to six smaller villages), surrounded on all

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

7 sides by glorious mountain peaks, foremost amongst which is Rakaposhi. The Nagar Valley and the Hoper Glacier are situated a dizzying 40-minute drive from Karimabad, nestled below Golden Peak. Hunza is approximately 100 km from Gilgit, and is the last major town along the Karakoram Highway before entering China.

Cities:

Gilgit is the major town along the Karakoram Highway before entering China. Karimabad - supposedly the setting for James Hilton's Shangri-La, and the valley lives up to that reputation.

Skardu - Home to some of the World's highest mountain peaks, glaciers, forts, museums and resorts.

Get in:
By plane Arrive in Islamabad. Pakistan International Airlines offers daily flights between Gilgit and Islamabad. The flying time is approximately 50 minutes, and the flight is one of the most scenic flights in the world, as its route passes over Nanga Parbat, and the peak of the mountain is higher than the aircraft's cruising altitude. PIA also offers regular flights on Being 737s between Skardu and Islamabad. All flights, however, are subject to weather clearance, and, in winters, flights are often delayed by several days. By road The Karakoram Highway, once a minor Silk Road route, connects Islamabad to Gilgit and Skardu, which are the two major hubs for mountaineering expeditions in the Northern Areas. The journey from Islamabad to Gilgit takes approximately 20-24 hours. Landslides on the Karakoram Highway are not uncommon, but bulldozers usually clear the road in a short time. The KKH connects Gilgit to Taxkorgan and Kaxgar in Xinjiang, China, via Sust (the customs and health inspection post on the Pakistan side of the border) and the Khunjerab Pass, the highest paved international border crossing in the world at 4,693 metres (15,397 feet).

Get around By Bus

NATCO (the Northern Areas Transport Corporation) offers bus and jeep transport service to the two hubs and to several other popular destinations, lakes, and glaciers in the area.

By Car:
The visitors can use local vans, jeeps and car for visiting different areas of the region, but mostly the 4wd jeeps are used.

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

Other destinations:

Fairy meadows is a point where world's three famous mountain ranges meet - the Himalayas, the Karakorams and the Hindukush K2 (Mount Godwin-Austen) - world's secondhighest mountain peak, Also visit K2 Museum located in the Skardu near K2 Motel. Shangrila Resort in Skardu Valley is a place of bliss, delight and peace Shigar Fort in the shigar valley of Skardu district. Rock carvings Dating back to 8th century AD, a huge Buddha figure surrounded by small Buddhisatvas is carved on a rock, three kilometres from Skardu across Sadpara Nullah on Skardu-Sadpara Road. Pre-historic men and animal figures are carved on rocks along Kachura Lake. Some rock carvings and diagram of a monastery near Perkuta (Mehdi Abad) Nalah are also found. Punial Sher Qila is the main village of the picturesque Punial valley. Singal This spot in the Punial valley offers ideal trout fishing opportunities. Rama A lake in this region offers an awe-inspiring view of the eastern side of Nanga Parbat, 8126 meters high. For the adventure-loving tourist, hiker, angler, art-lover, mountaineer or polo enthusiast, there are few places in the world that could compare with Gilgit. Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindukush Deosai National Park and Khunjerab National Park

Lakes:
Three of the world's longest glaciers outside the polar regions are found in Gilgit-Baltistan the Biafo Glacier, the Baltoro Glacier, and the Batura Glacier. There are, in addition, several high-altitude lakes in Gilgit Baltistan: Sheotsar Tso Lake in Byarsa Thang/Deosai Plains Baltistan Satpara Tso Lake in Skardu - Baltistan

Gangchie Tso Lake in Kharmang Valley Baltistan. Katzura Tso Lake in Skardu - Baltistan

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

Zharba Tso Lake in Shigar - Baltistan Phoroq Tso Lake in Skardu - Baltistan Bara Tso Lake in Gangche - Baltistan Byarsa Tso Lake in Gultari - Baltistan Borith Lake in upper Hunza - Gilgit Rama Lake near Astore - Gilgit Rush Lake near Nagar - Gilgit Kromber Lake In Kromber Pass - Gilgit

Mountains
Eighteen of the fifty highest peaks in the world are located in the Northern Areas. 1 K2, 2nd-highest in the world at 8,611 m. 2 Nanga Parbat, 9th-highest in the world at 8,125 m

3 Gasherbrum I, 11th-highest in the world at 8,080 m. 4 Broad Peak, 12th-highest in the world at 8,047 m. 5 Gasherbrum II, 13th-highest in the world at 8,035 m 6 Gasherbrum III, 15th-highest in the world at 7,946 m. 7 Gasherbrum VI, 17th-highest in the world at 7,932 m. 8 Distaghil Sar, 19th-highest in the world at 7,884 m. 9 Khunyang Chhish,21st-highest in the world at 7823 m. 10 Masherbrum ,22nd-highest in the world at 7,821 m. 11 Batura Sar, 25th-highest in the world at 7,795 m. 12 Kanjut Sar ,26th-highest in the world at 7,788 m. 13 Rakaposhi, 27th-highest in the world at 7,760m. 14 Saltoro Kangri 31st-highest in the world at 7,742 m. 15 Chogolisa 36th-highest in the world at 7,498 m. By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

10

16 Shispare 38th-highest in the world at 7,611 m. 17 Trivora 39th-highest in the world at 7,577 m. 18 Skyang Kangri 44th-highest in the world at 7,545 m.

Sports:
Polo is the favourite game of the people of Gilgit, Chilas, Astore, Hunza, and the surrounding areas. Every year, many tourists visit to enjoy polo in Gilgit Baltistan. Other games such as cricket, gulli danda, kabbadi, and volleyball are also played.

Tours:

Karakoram Treks & Tours Hindukush Trails Karakoram Explorers offers tours to Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindukush. Jasmine tours Concordia Expeditions Summit Karakoram Baltistan tours PIA Holidays

Glaciers:
Three of the world's seven longest glaciers outside the polar regions are also in the Northern Areas, the Biafo Glacier, the Baltoro Glacier, and the Batura Glacier. The Siachin Glacier is 75 km. The Hispar (53 km) joins the Biafo at the Hispar La (5154.16 meters (16,910 ft) to form an ice corridor 116.87 km (72 mi) long. The Batura, too, is 58 km in length. The most outstanding of these rivers of ice is the 62 km Baltoro. This large glacier, fed by some 30 tributaries, has a surface area of 1291.39 sq km.

Skardu:
GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

11 Skardu is the principal town of the region Baltistan and the capital of Skardu District, one of the districts making up Pakistan's Northern Areas. Skardu is located in the 10 km wide by 40km long Skardu Valley, at the confluence of the Indus river (flowing from near Kailash in Tibet and through neighbouring Ladakh before reaching Baltistan) and the Shigar River. Skardu is situated at an altitude of nearly 2,500 m (8,200 feet). The town is surrounded by greybrown coloured mountains, which hide the 8,000 metre peaks of the nearby Karakoram range.

The Skardu District include;

Subdivision Kharmang Subdivision Shigar Subdivision Rondu Subdivision Skardu

The town and the local people:

The town has developed along the main road passing through it and to either side of this road is situated the New Bazaar (Naya Bazaar), with hundreds of shops offer almost everything (trekking supplies, souvenirs, local goods, etc.). To the west one finds Yadgar Chowk (with local monument) and from there, the quarter behind Naya Bazaar, to the right hand side is the older Purana Bazaar. Travelling west from Naya Bazaar is a polo ground and next to that, Kazmi Bazaar. Skardu appears remote, dusty town at first glance, but the mixture of people here make it colourful and ethnically diverse. The crowded streets are mainly populated by Balti Tibetans and many of the local neighbourhoods (mohallahs) have names that reflect this too (i.e. Khache-drong, Khar-drong, Olding, Kushu-bagh, Pakora, Thsethang, Sher-thang, Nagholispang etc.). Due to this strong presence, Skardu has sometimes been referred to as the little Tibet of Pakistan. However, many other ethnic groups are present in Skardu including Shins, Pashtuns, Punjabis, Hunzakuts and even Uyghur, due to the close proximity of Baltistan to the respective regions. Since the creation of Pakistan people of various ethnicities from various regions of Pakistan have emigrated here.

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

12 All the above ethnic groups are devout Muslims. This includes the Balti-Tibetans, who converted from Tibetan Buddhism in the 16th century (the only sizeable group of Tibetans to have undergone such a conversion). Shia Islam has a strong presence in Skardu. Weather and climate The climate of Skardu during the summer is moderated by its mountain setting and the intense heat of lowland Pakistan does not reach here. The mountains also block out the summer monsoon and summer rainfall is thus quite low. However, these mountains result in very severe winter weather. During the April to October tourist season, temperatures vary between a maximum of 27C and a minimum (in October) 8C. However, temperatures can drop to below -10C in the Decemberto-January midwinter period. The lowest temperature of the year can reach -25C.

Balti dialect
Balti is a language spoken in Baltistan, in the Northern Areas of Pakistan and adjoining parts of Ladakh, India. Baltistan - before 1948 - was part of Ladakh province. The language is a dialect of the Tibetan language. It is mutually intelligible with Ladakhi and Burig. Many of the consonants that are silent in most modern Tibetan dialects are pronounced in Balti.

Skardu Fort (Kharphocho Fort):

Skardu Fort or Kharphocho Fort lies on the eastern face of the Khardrong or Mindoq-Khar ("Castle of Queen Mindoq") hill 15 metres or 40 feet above Skardu town. The fort dates from the 8th Century CE and contains an old mosque probably dating back to the arrival of Islam in the 16th Century CE. The fort provides a panoramic view of Skardu town, the Skardu valley and the Indus River. The fort was built by Rmakpon dynasty rulers of Baltistan and it was a seven storey building. It was burnt down by Sikhs in the 18th Century CE. Kharphocho (Skardu) fort was built on a design similar to that of Leh Palace and the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. The name Kharpochhe means the great fort Khar in Tibetan means castle or fort and Chhe means great.

Kharmang:

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science

13

The Kharmang valley is an integral Part of the district Skardu of Gilgit Baltistan. Kharmang locate with the Boundary to India, thats why the so called Kargil war between Pakistan and India was actually fought in this valley. The people of Kharmang took part in this war and helped the Pakistani army while supplying ammunition, food and shelter. The victims of the war were 95 % from this region and many small valleys wiped from the globe. Kharmang is known for its scholars, religious leaders and the rules followed by the people strictly to their faith. Its identity is that the whole region is consist of 100% from the Shiyan-e-Ali a.s. the local people classify the people in two categories i.e. the lovers of Ahl-ul-Bait and their enemies. The literacy rate of the Kharmang valley is also better than the other valleys of Baltistan.
We feel proud that we have world class leaders, out of all Syed Asad Shah Zaidi (Shaheed),Shikh Ali Najafi (Marhoom), Sheikh Ghulam Muhammad Gharvi (Marhoom), Professor Saleem are well known.

References:
1. "Cabinet approves Gilgit-Baltistan Empowerment and Self-Governance Order 2009" 29 August 2009 Associated Press of Pakistan 2. http://dailytimes.com.pk/default.asp?page=2006\11\01\story_1-11-2006_pg7_28 3. 4. 5. Special Report on Kargil"] The Herald (Pakistan) The wikipedia.com http://thenews.jang.com.pk/print1.asp?id=197679

6. http://www.geo.tv/9-29-2009/49958.htm 7. http://www.northernareas.org.pk/nassd/soed_pdf/ppe13.pdf.
8. TRIBAL AND NORTHERN AREAS OF PAKISTAN: CASE OF CONSTITUTIONAL NEGLECT! Presentation at SZABIST, Islamabad Campus by Dr. Tariq Hassan on 30 March 2009

GILGIT BALTISTAN
SSUET Karachi.

By: Mohammad Sharif Wali Student BS Computer Science