CNC Router / Engraving Machine

Simple Users Guide

1.

Introduction
This guide is intended to help the user get started using the CNC machine. I have
made every effort to include all that I can in the time that I had available, but
obviously this is not a professional user guide and is for a self-built machine.
I highly recommend the user gets familiar with the Mach3 software before using
the machine. This is almost essential as the machine is built to operate using this
software. This can be downloaded from the Internet, free in demo mode (ie not
connected to a CNC machine) onto another computer such as a laptop and used
as a training and simulator machine. I myself had a separate copy on my laptop
that I used to test run and edit ALL programs before loading them onto the
machine. The Mach3 software also comes with good documentation, which I
highly recommend reading at least once before starting.
I will try to document several example of how to use the machine using the
sample components I have produced as test components myself. Again this will
only touch the surface of what the machine can do, but will get you started, unless
of course you already know more than I do myself. In which case please forgive
me if I cover information you already know.
I built the machine for fun and as an experiment really and to learn a bit about
programming CNC machine and learning about gcode. I had seen a lot of
information, on the Internet, showing other machines people had built themselves
and felt inspired to see what I could do. After several months of research I started
to do some designs on 3D CAD. I have a background in Engineering and served
my apprenticeship on milling machines, before moving into the drawing office
where I spent several years designing machine tools. So hopefully my experience
in engineering (18 years) has not gone to waste.
The machine is built around a Trend Router Rack system, which I already had.
This is designed to handle full size routers, so I guessed it could easily handle a
smaller cutter such as the Dremel. The Trend Router Rack parts used are the base
mounting brackets, which fasten to the baseboard, the steel tubes, the top
clamping brackets and the aluminium mounting plates. This gives a very sturdy
gantry for the X-axis. It also enables the whole gantry to be raised or lowered, on
the steel tubes, if desired to give a bit more clearance over the table, if a tall
component is to be machined. The aluminium plates can also be turned around to
give even more clearance, but thats another matter and shouldnt be required.
The only downside is that you have to realign the gantry parallel to the table if
you undo the gantry brackets to move the gantry up or down. But you shouldnt
really need to, or at least not very often and it doesnt take that long to set it up
parallel again.
Each axis runs on quality linear slides, which are purpose made for CNC
machines. These comprise of aluminium support brackets on either end of
ground steel linear slide bars. Each axis also runs on four sealed linear slide
bearings. Each axis is driven by an M6 stainless steel threaded drive shaft. A

bearing supports each end of the drive shaft. On each end of the drive shaft a
small bearing shaft is fitted with an M6 nut locking it in position. Any play can be
taken up by adjusting either end of the drive shaft. Just undo one M6 nut and take
up the play. Then lock the M6 nut against the bearing shaft.
The X and Z axis both use a threaded Delrin (Acetal) blocks. This gives very little
backlash. The Y-axis table has an anti backlash nut system I created and can be
adjusted with two screws either side. All seem to work very well. I have included
some spare Delrin (Acetal) blocks that were left over which could be used to
replace the blocks if they ever wear.
The machine is fitted with a Dremel, which works very well, but another type of
cutter or small router could possibly be fitted, by making suitable mountings.

2.

Connections
I have tried to make all connections more or less fool proof, so they can only be
connected one-way and only to one thing. I also made almost all cables fitted with
connectors so I didnt have to keep messing about undoing wired connections and
then trying to remember which wire connected to what connector etc. The only
exception now is the power cable for the Dremel. That has to be disconnected
from the relay board at the rear of the machine, under the white plastic cover
marked 240v. So make sure you disconnect the machine from the mains before
removing the cover. Its just two wires, brown and blue and they connect to the
brown and blue on the relay board as shown in the photo below.

The following photo shows the rear of the CNC controller.

E1 Emergency Stop Button Connector From Control Panel

H1 Homing Limit Switches Connectors

M1 MPG Cable Connectors From Control Panel

P1 Parallel Port Cable From PC P2 Connector

This cable connects the PC to the CNC Controller interface board

This end of the parallel cable goes into the CNC Controller marked P1

This end of the parallel cable goes into the PC marked P2

Note it does not go into the other parallel port on the back of the PC, which has
been covered up and is not used.
X Y and Z Axis Stepper Motor Connectors
Important Never disconnect the stepper motor cables with the power on
It can blow the controller boards. Which is not good!
Screw the connectors on so theres no chance of them getting knocked off by
accident.

These connectors are self-explanatory and can only go in one way around, just
make sure you connect X to X, Y to Y and Z to Z etc.
R1 Dremel Relay Board Connector

This connects the CNC controller to the relay board. It allows the cutter to be
started and stopped from Mach3 or manually from the control panel. It is safety
interlocked with Mach3 through the charge pump feature, which only lets the
machine operate if a signal is present from Mach3. If Mach3 crashes, or Windows
or the PC crashes, or the power goes off and then returns the machine will not
run. Without this the cutter could start as the PC powered back up, which would
not be safe.
Plug Gang Sockets
All power comes from the no volts release safety switch mounted on the from
right hand side of the machine to the gang socket on the rear of the machine.

3.

Start Up Procedure
With the plug from the no volts release switch plugged in and the power switched
on, the green button on the no volts release switch can be switched on.

I always leave the monitor switched on, so the monitor should now come on and
then go into power saving mode, until the PC is powered up. If not press the
monitor power switch and then leave it on.
Now the PC can be switched on with the button on the front top of tower case.

Note sometimes the PC wont power up the first time it is switched on or will
freeze somewhere during Windows starting up. If this happens either hold the PC
power on button for a few seconds until it powers off again or press the red
button on the no volts release switch to cut the power and start again. This only
usually happens the first time it is started up and then its fine. I think it may be
the cmos memory battery on the motherboard that may need changing. It doesnt
always happen. This is why I have included the spare motherboard etc. If it did
become a problem it could be changed.
So now it should boot up and Windows XP will start up and you get to the
desktop with a message to say your computer may not be protected. This is due to
it not being connected to the Internet for some time and so it is complaining that
the anti virus software is out of date. You can just clear the message or if you have
Internet access you could update the anti virus software.
Once Windows is finished loading and the message has been cleared, the Mach3
software can be started. This is done by double clicking the KeyGrabber Icon.

You use this rather than the Mach3 Mill Icon as the control panel uses the
KeyGrabber program to recognise the keys you press on the control panel and it
translates the key presses into Mach3 commands. If you dont run KeyGrabber the
control panel will not work properly.

When the KeyGrabber window appears press the start Mach3 button.

Then select the Mach3Mill profile and press OK to continue and load Mach3.
Once Mach3 is up and running the CNC controller can be powered up. This is
done, by pressing the green power button on the front of the CNC Controller.

The green power light will come on and you should hear the cooling fans start
and the power relay click. The red Mach3 ready light will stay off at this stage.

Once you are ready to run the machine the reset button on the control panel can
be pressed to reset the machine ready to run. This clears the emergency stop state
that Mach3 always starts up into. The red Mach3 ready light will now come on.
The machine is ready to run.
Note It is better not leave the machine in a Mach3 ready state until you are
ready to use the machine. While the machine is in Mach3 ready state, the stepper
motors are powered up and will start to get hot. So I get in the habit of pressing

the reset button only when needed and then press it again to return the CNC
controller to emergency stop state. This way it saves the motors getting hot for no
reason. To demonstrate what I mean try moving the screw shaft on the X axis by
hand. Try it with the machine in Mach3 ready and in emergency stop state, by
pressing the reset button once then try moving the shaft and then press the reset
button again and try moving it by hand. You will see when the machine is in
Mach3 ready state the stepper motors are powered up and the shaft will not move
and the motors do get hot eventually if left on.
I have done a video that shows start up and shutdown procedures so if you like to
learn by seeing then its worth taking a look. In fact its probably a good idea to
watch the videos first anyway. That way you will probably know what Im taking
about a little better.

4.

Shutdown Procedure
Shutdown is more or less the reverse. First press the reset or emergency stop
buttons on the control panel. I usually the reset button as it serves the same
function and is less heavy to press.
This makes sure the stepper motors are powered down. Now the CNC controller
can be switched off, by pressing the power switch on the front of the CNC
Controller. The green power led will go out (after a few seconds due to capacitor
drain down time).
Now you can exit Mach3. It will ask you to confirm you want to end the session.
Once Mach3 is shutdown the PC can be shutdown by using the power down
button on the slide out keyboard, which is a nice little feature.

Hold the button for a few seconds and Windows will shutdown and the PC will
power off. Or you can press and hold the power button on the top of the PC tower
case.
Now the red button on the no volts release switch can be pressed and all power is
now off to the machine. The machine can now be unplugged if desired.

5.

Control Panel

I wanted to design a control panel to allow the machine to be operated as easily as

possible without having to use a standard mouse and keyboard all the time. I

looked at other peoples designs and after getting started using Mach3 decided on
a basic layout for the control panel.
I wanted to have as many of the common commands assigned to buttons along
with an emergency stop button. I also found a touch sensitive mouse pad that
incorporated a numeric pad. So I built this into the control panel to do away with
the standard mouse as much as possible.
Then I wanted to group the keys in groups of related functions. So the first group
of controls comprise of the four program control buttons for starting, pausing,
stopping and resetting the machine.

Start (Cycle Start) This starts the Gcode program running in Mach3. This will
start the spindle if the switch on the front of the Dremel is in the on
position and start the motion of the machine.
Pause (Feed Hold) This pauses the Gcode program running in Mach3 as soon as
possible. The spindle will still be running but can be manually stopped.
This can be used to replace a broken cutter, for example or debris. The
Spindle will need starting again manually and the program can be started
again by pressing the Start button. Mach3 will return to its previous
position and continue.
Stop -

This halts axis motion as quickly as possible. It may result in lost steps
and restarting may not be possible.

Note See Mach3 Manual for more details.

Reset - This is a toggle. Press once and Mach3 is reset and enabled, press again
and Mach3 returns to emergency stop status.

Emergency Stop Button This button is a software emergency stop button and
sends a signal to Mach3. It locks on when pressed and needs twisting to
release. The Reset button must then be pressed to allow the machine to
continue and clear the emergency stop state. I tend not to use this button
as it take a bit more force to press than the reset button and does just the
same thing.
NOTE: It is possible that you could use the red button on the no volts release
power switch as an emergency stop button. This would cut all power
instantly. Now I am not saying this is a good idea but if it was a real
emergency this will cut all power.
MPG DIAL Manual Pulse Generator This allows the selected axis to be moved
manually by sending signals to Mach3 which then generates pulses to
drive the stepper motors. See Mach3 for more details.

X-

This button allows you to move the X-axis manually in the minus
direction (Left)

X+

This button allows you to move the X-axis manually in the plus direction
(Right)

Y-

This button allows you to move the Y-axis (Table) manually in the minus
direction (Away from you)

Y+

This button allows you to move the Y-axis (Table) manually in the plus
direction (Towards you)

Z-

This button allows you to move the Z-axis (Dremel) manually in the
minus direction (Down)

Z+

This button allows you to move the Z-axis (Dremel) manually in the plus
direction (Up)

REF ALL HOME This button will move first the Y-Axis (Table) in the minus
direction until the Y home limitswitch is triggered. It will then back off
the limitswitch and set the Y Zero point. It will then move the X-Axis in
the minus direction until the X home limitswitch is triggered. It will then
back off the limitswitch and set the X zero point. The Z-Axis has no home
limit switch so you have to manually make sure it has enough movement
in the desired direction during program run. This is easy to do, especially
if you test run the program.
Zero-X This button resets the X-Axis DRO to zero.
Zero-Y This button resets the Y-Axis DRO to zero.
Zero-Z This button resets the Z-Axis DRO to zero.
MPG MODE This button will bring up the Mach3 Jogging Screen as shown
below and is the same as pressing the Tab key on the keyboard. This
screen allows you to see which Jog Mode, Cycle Jog Step and Axis is
selected.

JOG ON/OFF This button allows you to turn jogging off. This will stop any
accidental movements if someone presses one of the jogging buttons.
JOG MODE This button cycles through the Jog Modes. The Jog Modes are:
Continuous, Step and MPG.

Continuous mode allows you to press the X-, X+, Y-, Y+, Z-, Z+ feed
buttons and the Axis will move continuously in the desired direction
until the button is released.

Step Mode allows you to press the X-, X+, Y-, Y+, Z-, Z+ feed buttons and
the Axis will move a single step in the desired direction until the button
is released. The step depends on the selected cycle jog step, which can be
from 1.0000mm to 0.0001mm increments.

MPG Mode allows you to turn the MPG Dial on the control panel and
move the selected Axis in the direction required. This can be done in
single steps or continuously in a similar way to Step Mode.
JOG INC This button toggles through the Cycle Jog Step increments. The values
are 1.0000mm, 0.1000mm, 0.0100mm, 0.0010mm and 0.0001mm. This
allows you to start with large increments and then as you approach the
workpiece to reduce the increment to allow fine feeding for setup.
AXIS SELECT This button toggles through the active axis for MPG mode. Note
this only works in MPG mode because you can only move one axis at a
time with the MPG. With the manual feed buttons the button you press

selects the axis to move ie. Pressing the X+ button by its very nature
knows you want to move the X-Axis and pressing one of the others does
the same. But in MPG mode the desired axis must be active first.

SHUTTLE MODE This button toggle through the MPG Shuttle Modes.

Velocity Only mode the velocity of the axis movement is related to the
rotational speed of the MPG with Mach3 ensuring that the acceleration of
the axis and top speed if honored. This gives a very natural feel to axis
movement.
Step/Velocity mode in Mach3 currently works the same as Velocity Only
mode.
Single Step mode each pulse from the MPG dial requests one incremental
jog step. Only one request at a time will be allowed. In other words if the
axis is already moving then a pulse will be ignored.
Multi-Step mode pulses from the MPG dial will be counted and queued.
Note this means for large steps the axis may move a considerable
distance and for some time after MPG dial has stopped.
These step modes are of particular use in making very fine controlled
movements when setting up work on a machine. You are advised to start
using by using Velocity Mode then consider using Single Step mode with
relevant increments for final setting up.

The final three unmarked buttons were unassigned spare buttons, but I have now
setup the first button as Spindle Start/Stop. There is no label on the control panel to
show this as I did it after I had printer the control panel overlay. This could be
reprinted and I have included the graphic file (Panel-02.bmp) on the machine. The
other two buttons could be used at a later date, by defining them in KeyGrabber.
The touch pad allows you to move the mouse in the same way as a laptop computer
has a touch pad. It also allows you to tap the surface for clicking i.e. two taps equals
double click etc. It also has two mouse buttons, which can be used. The pad also
doubles as a numeric pad and calculator. If you click the Mode button the blue led
lights up and the pad is now in numeric pad mode. You can select a data entry field
in Mach3 then select numeric mode and enter a figure and the press enter. Then
reselect mouse mode by pressing the mode button again. It also has a calculator
button that brings up Microsoft calculator.

6.

Example Component CAD to CAM (Dxf to Gcode)

I will now document the way that I have created one of the test components I used
to test the machine. This will give you an idea of the process I used to go from
drawing to finished component and the steps in between. This is by no means the
only way to do things, just an example.
Example 1 32 Tooth Gearwheel Material: Polycarbonate
I start by using a CAD package to draw the component. The CAD package I use is
HP ME10. I use this because its the package I used as a design engineer. Any other
CAD or drawing package can be used that will save drawings as DXF files.
So I draw the gearwheel and set the centre of the gear as the datum point at 0,0
This helps when setting the machine up, as I will show later.

So here we have one 32T Gear with the centre on 0,0

I now save the file as a DXF file.

Next I load up CamBam and load the DXF file.

If it asks if you want to change default units to inches say no.

Change the units to mm.

Click on the main drawing area. The gear should go small.

Select View Zoom To Fit

Now were ready to start.

Now we need to tell CamBam what we want to machine, how we want to machine it and
in what order etc.
So the first operation is the centre drill. This is a 3mm drill through.
So we select the centre, by clicking on the centre point. If we select it correctly it will be
highlighted in red. The easiest way is to drag a small box around the centre small circle.

Now select the drilling operation icon at the top right of the screen.

We now have a drilling operation called Drill (1)

We can rename the drilling operation to something more meaningful, such as Centre Drill.
We also need to fill in the list of parameters on the bottom left hand corner.
I have expanded the list upwards in the following view to show the defaults and the
changes are highlighted in red.

TargetDepth The distance you want the drill to go, usually more than the thickness of
the material, providing you put a piece of scrap material under the workpiece. This then
allows for the point of the drill.
PlungeFeedrate This is the rate the Z-Axis will drill the hole. This depends on material
and size of hole.
ClearancePlane This is the distance the Z-Axis will return to after drilling.
Name The new name for the operation. Try to avoid using brackets, like CamBam does
as default as Mach3 doesnt like them.
ToolDiameter This is the drill diameter in this case.
ToolNumber This is used by Mach3 to allow you to identify tools and to allow tool
changes.
The next operation would be the four cutouts.
So we must highlight the lines and arcs that make them up.

Select the first line and it should be highlighted in red. Then press and hold the Ctrl key
and select the other lines and arcs.

Now the lines and arcs must be converted to Polylines and joined. Press the Ctrl key and
while holding it down press P (Ctrl+P). This is the same as going to the Edit menu and
going to Polylines > Convert To Polylines. Now press the Ctrl key and while holding it
down press J (Ctrl+J). A box will appear and ask for the join tolerance. I usually put
0.1mm
With this done we can now select the machining operation.

Select the New 2.5D Profile operation icon from the top right of the screen.

DepthIncrement This sets the depth of cut per pass, in this case 1.25mm to give two
passes.
TargetDepth This is the overall depth of cut, usually the thickness of the material, plus
enough to break through, if you want to.
CutFeedrate This is the feedrate the cutter will feed at in the X and Y Axis, while cutting.
This depends on cutter, material and depth of cut etc. Experimentation is the best way to
find the right settings, starting on the cautious side.
PlungeFeedrate This is the feedrate the cutter will cut in the Z Axis, while cutting. This
depends on the cutter, material and depth of cut etc. Experimentation is the best way to
find the right settings, starting on the cautious side.
ClearancePlane This is the distance the Z Axis will return to between movements over
workpiece to clear it. Default is 1.5mm but I like a bit more 5mm.
InsideOutside This tells CamBam to cut on the inside or outside of the profile. In this
case we want to cut on the inside. The default is outside.
Name The name of the 2.5D profile operation.

ToolDiameter Diameter of the cutting tool. In this case a 3.0mm Router bit. This is
important as CamBam works out the movements base on the radius offset.
ToolNumber This allows Mach3 to know if you need to change tool or not. Sometimes I
will put an incremented tool number to generate a toolchange, just to pause the machine.
Mach3 will stop the cutter and move the Z Axis up and wait for the start command. This
gives time to allow for removing scrap material and using a vacuum cleaner to remove
dust and debris etc before continuing with the next operation. But if you are using the
same cutter you dont need to do this, it is optional, only if you are changing from say a
3.0mm drill to a 3.0mm router bit as we do between the drilling operation and the cutout
profile operation is it required.
We can now repeat the process for the other three cutouts. You could do them all in one
operation but I like to just check whats going on and vacuum up and remove scrap
between operations.
If you now press and hold the Ctrl key and press T (Ctrl+T) this will generate the tool
paths to verify everything looks ok so far. You can also go to the CAM menu and select
Generate Toolpaths.
You should end up with something like the following:

You can see from this the toolpaths are on the right side of the profile (inside).

Now we need to cut the teeth.

So we now select all the teeth. This is best done by pressing the Ctrl key, and then
dragging boxes around the teeth.

Continue until the whole profile is selected.

Now convert the profile to Polylines by pressing and holding the Ctrl key and P (Ctrl+P)
then join the lines by pressing and holding the Ctrl key and J (Ctrl+J). The box will appear
asking for the joint tolerance, which should still be 0.1mm so just press ok.
Now insert a new 2.5d profile operation as we did for the cutouts. The parameters should
be as follows:

If you now press and hold the Ctrl key and press T (Ctrl+T) this will generate the tool
paths to verify everything looks ok so far. You can also go to the CAM menu and select
Generate Toolpaths.
You should end up with something like the following:

We are now finished and can generate the gcode program for the machine.
Select the CAM menu > Create Gcode File

Save the gcode file and give it a .tap extension for Mach3, such as 32T_Gear-001.tap
Now we are ready to load the gcode file into Mach3 and run it in demo (Simulator) mode
on a laptop for example, away from the machine, to check for errors or tweaks to the code.

The gcode generated looks like the following:

( This file was created automatically using CamBam )
( http://www.brusselsprout.org/CAMBAM )
( 8/26/2011 3:44:45 AM )
( T1 : 3 )
( T2 : 3 )
( T3 : 3 )
( T4 : 3 )
( T5 : 3 )
( T6 : 3 )
G21
G90
G64
G00 Z5
( Centre Drill - 1 )
( T1 : 3 )
M06 T1
M03
G81 X0 Y0 Z3 R5 F100
G81 Z3 R5
G81 Z3 R5
G81 Z3 R5
( Cutout - 1 )
( T2 : 3 )
G00 Z5
M06 T2
M03
G00 X-14.780806 Y7.333333
G01 Z-1.25
G02 F200 X-16.124515 Y6.5 I-1.34371 J0.666667
G01 X-40.887418
G02 X-42.359505 Y8.288027 I0 J1.5
G02 X-8.288027 Y42.359505 I42.359505 J-8.288027
G02 X-6.5 Y40.887418 I0.288027 J-1.472087
G01 Y16.124515
G02 X-7.333333 Y14.780806 I-1.5 J0
G03 X-14.780806 Y7.333333 I7.333333 J-14.780806
G01 F100 Z-2.5
G02 F200 X-16.124515 Y6.5 I-1.34371 J0.666667
G01 X-40.887418
G02 X-42.359505 Y8.288027 I0 J1.5
G02 X-8.288027 Y42.359505 I42.359505 J-8.288027
G02 X-6.5 Y40.887418 I0.288027 J-1.472087
G01 Y16.124515
G02 X-7.333333 Y14.780806 I-1.5 J0
G03 X-14.780806 Y7.333333 I7.333333 J-14.780806
( Cutout - 2 )
( T3 : 3 )
G00 Z5
M06 T3
M03
G00 X16.124515 Y6.5
G01 F100 Z-1.25
G02 F200 X14.780806 Y7.333333 I0 J1.5
G03 X7.333333 Y14.780806 I-14.780806 J-7.333333
G02 X6.5 Y16.124515 I0.666667 J1.34371
G01 Y40.887418
G02 X8.288027 Y42.359505 I1.5 J0
G02 X42.359505 Y8.288027 I-8.288027 J-42.359505
G02 X40.887418 Y6.5 I-1.472087 J-0.288027
G01 X16.124515

G01 F100 Z-2.5

G02 F200 X14.780806 Y7.333333 I0 J1.5
G03 X7.333333 Y14.780806 I-14.780806 J-7.333333
G02 X6.5 Y16.124515 I0.666667 J1.34371
G01 Y40.887418
G02 X8.288027 Y42.359505 I1.5 J0
G02 X42.359505 Y8.288027 I-8.288027 J-42.359505
G02 X40.887418 Y6.5 I-1.472087 J-0.288027
G01 X16.124515
( Cutout - 3 )
( T4 : 3 )
G00 Z5
M06 T4
M03
G00 X6.5 Y-16.124515
G01 F100 Z-1.25
G02 F200 X7.333333 Y-14.780806 I1.5 J0
G03 X14.780806 Y-7.333333 I-7.333333 J14.780806
G02 X16.124515 Y-6.5 I1.34371 J-0.666667
G01 X40.887418
G02 X42.359505 Y-8.288027 I0 J-1.5
G02 X8.288027 Y-42.359505 I-42.359505 J8.288027
G02 X6.5 Y-40.887418 I-0.288027 J1.472087
G01 Y-16.124515
G01 F100 Z-2.5
G02 F200 X7.333333 Y-14.780806 I1.5 J0
G03 X14.780806 Y-7.333333 I-7.333333 J14.780806
G02 X16.124515 Y-6.5 I1.34371 J-0.666667
G01 X40.887418
G02 X42.359505 Y-8.288027 I0 J-1.5
G02 X8.288027 Y-42.359505 I-42.359505 J8.288027
G02 X6.5 Y-40.887418 I-0.288027 J1.472087
G01 Y-16.124515
( Cutout - 4 )
( T5 : 3 )
G00 Z5
M06 T5
M03
G00 X-16.124515 Y-6.5
G01 F100 Z-1.25
G02 F200 X-14.780806 Y-7.333333 I0 J-1.5
G03 X-7.333333 Y-14.780806 I14.780806 J7.333333
G02 X-6.5 Y-16.124515 I-0.666667 J-1.34371
G01 Y-40.887418
G02 X-8.288027 Y-42.359505 I-1.5 J0
G02 X-42.359505 Y-8.288027 I8.288027 J42.359505
G02 X-40.887418 Y-6.5 I1.472087 J0.288027
G01 X-16.124515
G01 F100 Z-2.5
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( Teeth Profile )
( T6 : 3 )
G00 Z5
M06 T6
M03
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G03 X-56.928013 Y14.213297 I1.664418 J-23.942216
G03 X-57.986916 Y13.063702 I0.412275 J-1.442231
G01 X-58.572187 Y10.121346
G03 X-58.033819 Y8.654033 I1.471178 J-0.292635
G03 X-53.808872 Y5.966084 I14.924959 J18.794829
G01 X-53.938875 Y4.646142
G03 X-58.607034 Y2.834088 I6.303332 J-23.157461
G03 X-59.421316 Y1.5 I0.685718 J-1.334088
G01 Y-1.5
G03 X-58.607034 Y-2.834088 I1.5 J0
G03 X-53.938875 Y-4.646142 I10.971491 J21.345407
G01 X-53.808872 Y-5.966084
G03 X-58.033819 Y-8.654033 I10.700012 J-21.482778
G03 X-58.572187 Y-10.121346 I0.93281 J-1.174677
G01 X-57.986916 Y-13.063702
G03 X-56.928013 Y-14.213297 I1.471178 J0.292635
G03 X-51.996037 Y-15.079821 I6.596395 J23.075692
G01 X-51.611024 Y-16.349038
G03 X-55.230398 Y-19.809585 I14.685496 J-18.982524
G03 X-55.472162 Y-21.353734 I1.144054 J-0.970124
G01 X-54.324112 Y-24.125372
G03 X-53.061281 Y-25.046297 I1.385819 J0.574025
G03 X-48.055021 Y-24.93399 I1.967802 J23.919192
G01 X-47.429794 Y-26.103707
G03 X-50.304503 Y-30.203865 I18.106625 J-15.752782
G03 X-50.240374 Y-31.76551 I1.311333 J-0.728289
G01 X-48.573663 Y-34.259919
G03 X-47.155433 Y-34.916781 I1.247204 J0.833355
G03 X-42.267277 Y-33.829959 I-2.736411 J23.843491
G01 X-41.425863 Y-34.855225
G03 X-43.445434 Y-39.437428 I20.831926 J-11.917669
G03 X-43.077875 Y-40.956555 I1.428219 J-0.458467
G01 X-40.956555 Y-43.077875
G03 X-39.437428 Y-43.445434 I1.06066 J1.06066
G03 X-34.855225 Y-41.425863 I-7.335466 J22.851497
G01 X-33.829959 Y-42.267277
G03 X-34.916781 Y-47.155433 I22.756669 J-7.624567
G03 X-34.259919 Y-48.573663 I1.490218 J-0.171026
G01 X-31.76551 Y-50.240374
G03 X-30.203865 Y-50.304503 I0.833355 J1.247204
G03 X-26.103707 Y-47.429794 I-11.652623 J20.981334
G01 X-24.93399 Y-48.055021
G03 X-25.046297 Y-53.061281 I23.806885 J-3.038458
G03 X-24.125372 Y-54.324112 I1.49495 J0.122988
G01 X-21.353734 Y-55.472162
G03 X-19.809585 Y-55.230398 I0.574025 J1.385819
G03 X-16.349038 Y-51.611024 I-15.521977 J18.304869
G01 X-15.079821 Y-51.996037
G03 X-14.213297 Y-56.928013 I23.942216 J1.664418
G03 X-13.063702 Y-57.986916 I1.442231 J0.412275
G01 X-10.121346 Y-58.572187

G03 X-8.654033 Y-58.033819 I0.292635 J1.471178

G03 X-5.966084 Y-53.808872 I-18.794829 J14.924959
G01 X-4.646142 Y-53.938875
G03 X-2.834088 Y-58.607034 I23.157461 J6.303332
G03 X-1.5 Y-59.421316 I1.334088 J0.685718
G01 X1.5
G03 X2.834088 Y-58.607034 I0 J1.5
G03 X4.646142 Y-53.938875 I-21.345407 J10.971491
G00 Z5
M05
M30

You can tweak this file to suit your needs and to improve the way the machining is done.
Once you start to get to know what you are doing with the machine, the cutters, the
materials and Mach3, you will be able to create and modify programs very quickly.
If you are new to CNC machining, gcode, the Mach3 and Cambam software, I recommend
you spend as much time as possible learning about each thing before rushing into
machining anything. Try something simple first , on scrap material and make sure you
understand every stage first. In the long run it will be worth it.

7.

Example Component Setting Up & Machining

So now we have our gcode program loaded into Mach3 and ready to run, having tested it
on the demo version of Mach3, running on a separate laptop computer, ironed out any
little bugs and tweaked it to run as we wish.
We must now clamp the workpiece material to the table. In this example I printed out the
drawing of the component, full size, to enable me to visualise where to put the clamps and
also where to set the datum point. The setup looked like the following.

You may notice I placed a piece of scrap material under the polycarbonate material.
So now we need to set the datum reference point and set the X and Y Axis DROs to zero.
To do this I used a scriber point in the Dremel. I then moved the Y and X Axis roughly into
position with the rapid feed buttons on the control panel, making sure the Z Axis doesnt
hit anything. I then switch to the MPG Dial to move the desired axis to the centre of the
gear drawing that I placed on the polycarbonate. Once I was happy with the position I set
the X and Y Axis DROs to zero by pressing the buttons on the control panel.
I then replaced the scriber point with a 3mm drill.
Important Note! Always use a spanner to tighten the cutter in the Dremel or it could
come loose during machine. Also ALWAYS turn the switch to the off position on the front
of the Dremel, while changing cutters or when its not in use. Even though it is safe, with
its Mach3 charge pump electronics safety feature, I like to be double safe.
Now we have to set the Z Axis to zero so it knows where the material is. To do this use the
rapid feed button (Z-) to bring the cutter down close to the material. Then switch to the
MPG Dial to bring the Z Axis to touch the material. I use feeler gauges and use small

single steps of say 0.1mm then 0.01mm when really close. It isnt always critical to get it so
spot on, but you can if you need to.
So now when we are happy with the Z Axis we can zero the Z Axis DRO with the button
on the control panel. Then we can select Continuous feed again and rapid feed the Z Axis
clear of the material.
So now with the machine setup and ready we can turn the switch on, on the front of the
Dremel and press the Start button on the control panel. The Dremel will start up and the
machine will drill the centre hole. It will then raise the Z Axis back to its clear position and
stop and wait for you to change the tool for the next machining operation. I ALWAYS turn
the switch to the off position on the Dremel before removing the drill and replacing with a
3mm router bit. I tighten up the cutter using a spanner. Then you need re-zero the Z Axis
for the new cutter. Do this in the same way as before and set the Z Axis DRO to zero. Now
move the Z Axis clear of the material. Turn the Dremel power switch back on and we are
ready to go again. This is done by pressing the Start button on the control panel again.
The Dremel will start up again and the machine will continue to machine the cutout. It
will take two passes of 1.25mm each and then move the Z Axis to the clear position and
stop. You dont have to have the machine stop at every cutout, but you can if you want to
remove debris or scrap material or use a vacuum to clear chippings etc. You also get to see
how its doing. Because we dont have to do a toolchange, we can just press the Start
button on the control panel when ready.
When all the cutouts have been machined it will again stop and wait for you to press the
Start button on the control panel before starting to machine the teeth outer profile. We
leave this until last because when the teeth are complete the component will have been cut
free from the material and will no longer be clamped down. So if we tried to machine the
cutouts after the teeth the part would move and scrap would be generated. So you do have
to plan the order of machining to some degree to avoid this.
So when the program is finished the Dremel will stop and the machine will return to a safe
position, clear of the workpiece. It will also have set the machine to an emergency stop
state, with the stepper motors powered down.
You can now look at your new creation..

This is the end of this example. I hope this guide was helpful and gives you some idea, if
you dont already know, how to get started with this type of machine. I wasnt sure, while
writing this guide, how experienced the new owner would be and how much they would
already know. I was also very restricted with the time available to put all this together
while packing and sorting my imminent move to Spain.
The main advice is to get very used to Mach3 first. You must know how this works to
stand much chance with the machine. You can use the CamBam CAM software to
generate the gcode if you like or you can find an alternative that suits your needs better.
This is just the one I liked and it suited what I wanted to do and the way I worked, but it
may not suit you.
There is much info on the Internet on all aspects of Mach3 and CNC machining as well as
gcode and CAM. There are also many helpful forums out there with people more than
willing to help.
I have also included all the many photos and the videos I created of the machine. I will
place a shortcut on the desktop of the machine to them and all the other documents and
also burn a CD with all the same info and backup software etc.
I truly hope that this machine brings you as much pleasure and joy, in whatever you
choose to do with it, that I have had in the time I built and tested it. It truly has been the
most interesting, enjoyable, inspiring, complex but rewarding project I have ever done (So
far).