PIN TUCKS

Pin tucks have narrow tucks and can be found on tailored dresses, tuxedo shirts and kid's clothes. Fabrics that are light weight such as cotton is suitable to use in making pin tucks. Pin tuck uses less fabric than the spaced tucks that use broader spaces. How to Sew a Pin Tuck sewing 1 Mark out your fabric using a grid system. Mark straight lines, repeated 1 cm 3\8 inch, running either length or crosswise. 2 When sewing 3 mm pin tucks, fold the fabric along the marked line and sew 3 mm from the folded edge. Repeat the process on every single line drawn until the desired amount of pin tucks is achieved. 3 When sewing 1 cm 3/8 inch pin tucks, three drawn lines represent one tuck. Pinch the second line as this will become the fold. The first line will be the stitch line whilst the third lies underneath the fold. 4 When sewing pin tucks that are spaced further apart, repeat the process as detailed in step 3, but afterwards, miss one drawn mark on the grid and form the next tuck thereafter.

SPACED TUCKS
Spaced tucks are designs that have a space between each tuck. These tucks can be sewn close to the hem of a shirt, vertically on a bodice or on sleeves as well as yokes. You can use light to medium weight fabric to make spaced tucks. How To Sew Spaced Tucks

You will use machine top-stitch foot On the surface of the fabric, mark the size and positions of the tucks On the marked line, fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and use iron to press the lines. Sew parallel straight stitch to each folded edges to create the tucks

After you have stitched all the tucks, press the tucks in the same direction

CROSS TUCKS
1. A method of making a multiple box tuck drape with a rod pocket extension, comprising steps of: (a) folding a continuous piece of material so as to form two layers and so that hemmed side edges are superimposed; (b) stitching a plurality of parallel and equally spaced rows to form a plurality of pockets on said piece of material, said pockets including an end pocket while leaving an upper and lower material extension extending from said end pocket; (c) seaming said pockets to form a plurality of horizontal superimposed box tucks; (d) seaming upper and lower extensions of said material which extends from last said pockets to form a rod pocket; (e) said upper extension being equal in width to threefourths a desired finished width of a rod pocket and said lower extension extending in width to encompass any alternative drape; (f) inserting said rod pocket over a rod and gathering said rod pocket on a rod, thereby causing said plurality of horizontal superimposed box tucks to ruffle.

What are Darts? Darts are garment construction features used to shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight, for an easy fit, or curved for a closer-to-the body fit. Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and hip areas, where the body is the most contoured.

SINLE DART These bust darts are straight for an easy fit. Make them as follows: To make darts, with the RIGHT sides of the fabric together, fold the fabric through the center of the dart, bringing broken lines and small dots together. Stitch the dart from wide end to points. A double pointed straight dart is made exactly like a single straight dart, except that you start at the center of the dart and stitch to the tip. Repeat this procedure for both ends of the dart, overlapping a few stitches in the center when starting the second section. Clip the dart at its widest part. This clip will allow the dart to spread a bit and lie flat.

Tip - To prevent a bubble at the point, make the last few stitches right on the fold and leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot. DO NOT back-stitch at the point as this can cause wrinkling or pulling.

KNIFE PLEAT
Knife pleats are made by folding a 2-inch section of fabric to the left. Pin the fold in place. Pick up the adjacent 2-inch section of fabric, fold it to the left and pin. Continue in this manner until you have reached your hip measurement. Iron the pleats from top to bottom to form the knife edge. Intro

Here is a quick how to for the Knife Pleat, the most basic and common pleat used in sewing. It is a single pleat turned in one direction. Technique Materials fabric, scissors, marking tool, ruler, pins

Intro

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BOX PLEAT
Box pleats are equal to two knife pleats but instead of facing left around the skirt, each box pleat faces left to right per pleat. Make a 2-inch knife pleat. Move 4 inches to the left and pick up the adjacent fabric and make a second 2-inch knife pleat, but instead of pinning it as a left-facing pleat, turn it back so that the right and left sides of the pleat meet in the middle. Repeat this process around the fabric until you have enough to match your hip measurement. Iron the pleats from top to bottom.

INVERTED BOX PLEAT

An inverted box pleat is formed by two equal folds of fabric folded toward one another so they meet at the center of the pleat on the front of the fabric. Or, more easily stated, an inverted box pleat is what a box pleat looks like from behind.

PLAIN SEAM

Use a plain seam for most garments. Pin the two pieces of fabric with the right sides together. Make sure that the edges of your fabric, as well as any pattern notches or markings, are matched up evenly by 1cm and then machin on 1cm line

FRENCH SEAM

Use a French seam for sheer fabrics. Place the wrong sides of the fabric together, pin and sew 1cm from the fabric edges Trim the seam allowance layers to 0.3cm and press the seam open. Fold the fabric so that the right sides are together and the seam is in the center of the fold. Press again. Stitch the seam 0.7cm from the fold and press the seam to one side.

RUN AND FELT SEAM

Run And Fell Seam A run and fell seam is a seam made on the right side of the garment, comprising a normal seam, to which one side is trimmed and the other side turned over the trimmed side and pressed under and the whole seam then topstitched on the right side. Run and fell seams are typically used in garments made ...

LAPPED SEAMS

This is a nice seam which can be used to sew yokes in garments and provides added decoration. Steps to sew a lapped seam 1. On top section press under the 1cm seam allowance. 2. Place top section over bottom section and match seam lines. 3. Tack in place. 4. Sew 1cm in from the folded edge. Note: If sewing using a fabric which frays then it is always advisable to neaten raw edges to prolong the life of the project.

Pin It See all 2 photos This is how a lapped seam will appear on the right side (outside) of the garment.

PATCH POCKET

Patch pockets are flat pockets sewn to the exterior of a garment. They are typically unfitted, and can come in a range of shapes and sizes. Many garments are made with patch pockets, since they are cheap and relatively easy to install when compared to other pocket designs. It is also possible to add patch pockets to an existing garment, should the need arise. Sincepatch pockets are external, they are also potentially endlessly configurable, which can be rather convenient. To make patch pockets, pieces of fabric are cut out and sewn directly onto a garment. Typically, the edges are turned down so that they face the inside of the pocket and will not fray or look unsightly. A patch pocket may also be lined or reinforced with fabric so that it is especially sturdy. Since the pocket is sewn onto an already completed garment, it looks like apatch, and some patch pockets are in fact purely ornamental, just like many patches are.

PATCH POCKET

PATCH POCKET WITH TOPSTITCHING

QUILTING

Quilting can refer either to the process of creating a quilt or to the sewing of two or more layers of material together to make a thicker padded material. "Quilting" as the process of creating a quilt uses "quilting" as the joining of layers as one of its steps, often along with designing, piecing, appliqu, binding and other steps. A quilter is the name given to someone who works at quilting. Quilting can be done by hand, by sewing machine, or by a specialist longarm quilting system. The process of quilting uses a needle and thread to join two or more layers of material to make a quilt. Typical quilting is done with 3 layers: the top fabric or quilt top, batting or insulating material and backing material. The quilter's hand or sewing machine passes the needle and thread through all layers and then brings the needle back up. The process is repeated across the entire area where quilting is wanted. A rocking, straight or running stitch is commonly used and these stitches can be purely functional or decorative and elaborate. Quilting is done to create bed spreads, art quilt wall hangings, clothing, and a variety of textile products. Quilting can make a project thick, or with dense quilting, can raise one area so that another stands out.

NECK PIPING

Piping contains a strip of fabric that covers a length of cording. Although an optional embellishment, piping adds a distinctive and attractive touch along the edges of garments. Suitable for pocket edges, the bottom edge of jackets and necklines, piping is a subtle detail that you can add easily.

NECK FACING
sewing 1 - Stay stitch the garment neckline and neckline facing. 2 Interface both the facing and the garment neckline. 3 Place the facing right sides together (front and back), and sew the shoulder seams. Press open and do the same to the garment. 4 Place the right side of your facing onto the right side of the garment. Ensure the shoulder seams and notches are all aligned and then pin into place. 5 Machine sew the seam allowance of the SQUARE neckline. 6 At the sqaure of the neckline, sew 1 stitch horizontal to the V which will help shaping. 7 Release the tension of the square by clipping near to the stitching. Trim and grade the seam. 8 Turn the facing to the wrong side and pin into place. 9 Press into position. 10 Understitch the wrong side of the facing to stop any unwanted movement

BUTTON HOLE AND BUTTON

1. Materials you will need:

Hand sewing needle Thread to match the button or the fabric Scissors Straight pin, another needle or a tooth pick to use as a spacer which will provide the lift for the button hole fabric under the button The button

Thread and knot your needle. Place the needle into the fabric so that the knot will end up on the back of the fabric (out of sight). Make a couple of stitches in the fabric where the button is to be located to anchor the thread. Lay the button on the place you will be attaching it. Bring the needle up through the button. Lay the straight pin, needle or toothpick on top of the button. Take the thread over top of the straight pin, needle or toothpick and bring your needle and thread back down through the button. Repeat step 4 to make about six stitches over the straight pin, needle or tooth picks to anchor your button. For a button with four holes, repeat the above steps for the other two holes. Bring the needle and thread to the back of the fabric and knot the thread in the threads that have sewn the button to the garment. Cut the thread. Remove the straight pin, needle or tooth pick and snug the button to the loops of thread by tugging the button.