Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Kingdom of character
From quirky cafs and.. mangA porncubicles.. to beer served from.. backpacks, its easy to .. go gaga in Tokyo, Japan..
WORDS: kelly irving
hat is your blood type? asks Lady Gaga. Its an odd question, especially coming from a pop star Ive only just met. Everybody knows their blood type in Japan. Like me I am A, like the real Gaga: patient, intelligent and, um, conservative. She strikes a pose la Marilyn Monroe, gives me a wink and lights up her boobs like shes a Christmas tree. Spiderman runs after her, followed by two vampires, a pumpkin, a panda, some little green men and another Gaga dressed in lace. I wasnt sure what to expect on my arrival in Tokyo for a few days stay. But Ive just discovered two things: 1) When someone asks what your blood group is, its like saying, What star sign are you? and, 2) Ive unintentionally landed during Halloween which, here, has a distinct local spin and it seems everyone in Roppongi, Tokyos nightlife nerve centre, has gone a little Gaga. In fact, since the pop diva urged fans to come back to the city post-earthquake and tsunami in 2011, she has become somewhat of a national hero and an apt one. Out there yet enigmatic, gregarious yet shy, the Poker Face singer with the big personality sums up this mad metropolis to a tee.
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July/August 2013
UNLEASHED
mad must-dos
1. Eat soba and drink sake at Gonpachi in Nishi-Azabu
Its the restaurant that inspired the location of Uma Thurmans fight with The Crazy 88 in Kill Bill: Volume 1.
World of weird
After a heavy night out on the sake, I spend the next few days finding out what makes Tokyo tick. Its a sprawling city with quirks on every street corner, from the district of Akihabaras gizmos, gadgets and cat cafs, where people pay for petting time because many Tokyo apartments forbid tenants from having animals, to its shops dedicated to local girl pop group AKB48, with 87 members a Guinness World Record. Perhaps strangest of all are Tokyos cutesy-poo maid cafs fantasylands for nerds. Women in frilly frocks, knee socks and cat ears sing songs and make desserts as you sip sake. Its not seedy. Guys bring their girls. Businessmen go at lunchtime. And for the ladies? Butler cafs. Foreign men with slicked-back hair serving sambos and calling you Princess.
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Hit em up
The best way to get an insight into a city, however, is through its sport. In Japan, thats baseball. At Jingu Stadium, Ive been lucky enough to score tickets to a local game thats on par with a preliminary final. Its between age-old rivals the Yomiuri Giants the New York Yankees of Japan and local underdogs the Yakult Swallows. Ussah, ussah hi gora, hi gora! The usually reserved Japanese spill forth, like a collective volcano erupting. The chanting is loud, melodic. It is being conducted like an orchestra by a man standing on an upturned milk crate, blowing a whistle through a megaphone.
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July/August 2013
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The guy squeezed in next to me is Wayne, a veteran of the sport and an American expat whos spent most of his life in Japan. He has barely missed a baseball game in 42 years. This is the best part, he says as he opens up a pastel-coloured umbrella that joins a tide of translucent brollies swaying in the breeze. A fan got so worked up once, he started waving his brolly, says Wayne. Now, we all do it even when its not raining. I never witness a mid-game spat, on or off the field, despite the fact that beer girls come to my seat and serve full-strength alcohol from vacuumcleaner-like kegs strapped to their backs. Yet Im told the Giants performance has been held responsible for everything from the recession to the nations high suicide rate. Even the previous owner of the Swallows Hisami Matsuzono has publicly declared hes a shameless Giants fan.
GET THERE
Qantas flies from Sydney to Narita, Tokyo, from $1,980 return. qantas.com.au
MORE INFO
tcvb.or.jp jnto.org.au
Sing it to me
Soon afterwards, Im sinking a beer with OJ the villager Nigerias answer to Bob Marley. He came to Tokyo to be with his Japanese wife. Were downstairs in his bar: a seedy joint inappropriately named Paradise Island thats in the heart of Kabukicho, Tokyos red-light district. I am a big star! OJ announces, pointing to his chest like I might have mistaken him for someone else who isnt in here. Let me play something for you. OJ starts the turntables rolling and then picks up the mic: I went to the airport, yo-o-o-oowah and it was huge I ran out of Africa thinking that Tokyo was the best Tokyo, Ive discovered, is full of personality and personalities. Here, it doesnt matter who youre trying to be or what your blood type is. As the original Lady Gaga once said: You have to be unique, and different, and shine in your own way. Yep, this city certainly blows your boxed-in Western mind.
9. Go to a baseball game
Sports hero Suishu Tobita once said: Baseball is more than just a game. Through it one learns the beautiful and noble spirit of Japan. The main stadium is Tokyo Dome but its easier to get tickets at Jingu Stadium. The season runs from April to October; unreserved seats start from $10. japanballtickets.com