Mill Tips/Instructions

Mill Tips/Instructions are presented in a chronological order of completion. We strongly recommend you complete them in order. Whether you are planning on CNC'ing your mill or keeping it manual we recommend the first four procedures (through wash down).

We were tossed up about posting the some of the pictures as they show our machine in a fairly compromising condition. (How often does a supplier recommend disassembling their product?) But, we decided to post them for a few reasons:

We hate to false advertise, so we will show you exactly what youre getting. We have converted A LOT of Chinese machines from different suppliers and they all come in basically the same condition, we view them as assembled kits needing final fit and finish. Just because another supplier doesnt show the procedures doesnt mean it doesnt need to be done. We specialize in Chinese machines, we know every nut and bolt, all the other suppliers are just importers, they know VERY little about the actual product.

Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill

Connecting Your Industrial Hobbies Mill to Power Selecting the Correct Oil for Your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill Selecting a New Motor and VFD for Your Industrial Hobbies Mill
o of course selecting a new motor and VFD is optional

Disassembling Your Industrial Hobbies Mill

Removing the Motor Removing the Head Removing the Table

Removing the Saddle Removing the Column

Lapping the Ways of Your Mill

Cautions, Warnings, Setting up, and General Procedures Lapping the Y Axis Lapping the X Axis Lapping the Z-Axis

Casting Cleanup

Casting Cleanup

Wash Down

Wash Down

Miscellaneous

Basic Mill Footprint LatheMaster Slide Modification Install Power Feed Part1 Install Power Feed Part2

Connecting Your Industrial Hobbies Mill to Power

Your Industrial Hobbies mill is wired for 220V single-phase operation. DO NOT attempt to run it on a voltage other than 220V single phase. We highly recommend using a dedicated 220V 20 Amp circuit for your mill. Because of the use of coolant, the use of a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is highly recommended.

Please Note:
Your Industrial Hobbies mill comes with a 110V plug on the end of the cord. Please remove this plug, as it was never designed for the higher voltage. Future Industrial Hobbies mills will not have this plug installed at the factory. The biggest question you may have is whether or not the power cord with a 110V plug can take 220V. The answer is yes, without any problems. Wire/power cords are rated in 2 ways: Voltage and Amperage.

Our power cords are rated for a maximum of 500V, 220v is only 1/2 of the maximum voltage. The cords are 3-conductor 14 AWG rated for 13 Amps, the peak motor draw is just under 10 amps leaving 3 amps of headroom.

Warnings and Precautions

Warning: When using electrical products, basic precautions should always be followed, including, but not limited to the following:

Danger: RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK. Connect only to a circuit protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)

Warning: RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK. A qualified licensed electrician should make all electrical connections.

Warning: RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK. Disconnect power before servicing.

Selecting the Correct Oil for Your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill
Selecting the Correct Oil
Lubrication is not an exact science so there is often a range of viscosities that will work in a particular application. In the below chart you will notice that there is some overlap in the ranges, select the range where you do most of your machining. The general rule for gear oil is: the slower the gear operation the higher the oil viscosity or the higher the velocity the lower the viscosity. Spindle RPM 0-1500 500-2500 1500-3000 2000-3000 Recommended Oil Mobil DTE Heavy Medium Mobil DTE Light Mobil Velocite Oil #10 Mobil Velocite Oil #8 ISO Viscosity Grade 68 32 22 15

Selecting an oil viscosity that is too high

If your oil viscosity is too high you will not be able to attain high-speed operation. The oil will foam excessively and you will generate a lot of heat. In just a few minutes your VFD will overload and shut the spindle down. It will shorten the lifespan of your mill dramatically.

Selecting an oil viscosity that is too low

If your oil viscosity is too low you will have excessive wear on the gear during low speed/high torque operations.

Selecting an oil viscosity that is just right

If you plan to just run the machine manually select a high-grade 80w gear oil, Mobil DTE Heavy Medium is a great choice. For most folks Mobil DTE Light will work great for all around higher-speed performance, yet allow occasional low speed operations (couple hours a week). 3000RPM spindle speed is attainable, but you will get some foaming. If youre just going to work aluminum and other high-speed materials Mobil Velocite Oil #10 will be a better option and allow smoother high speed operation. If for some reason

during high-speed operation you find excessive foaming of the #10 oil you can switch to something as light as #8 (please give us a call before you go to #8). We highly recommend use of the higher-grade machine oils, cheaper oils or oils not designed for machine use can have serious adverse effects.

Selecting a New Motor and VFD for Your Industrial Hobbies Mill
The Industrial Hobbies mill is designed to have an operational range from 100 to 1500 RPM with a low speed motor (included) or 200 to 3000 RPM with a 3400RPM spindle motor you supply. Operation in the low speed range is fairly straightforward: Connect the mill to power, add suitable oil and away you go. Running in the high-speed range takes a bit more adjustment, and is outlined in the following steps. When selecting a VFD and motor combination for the mill keep the following guidelines in mind for maximum machining performance.

Select the Motor

Metric Motors have a base/frame combination that correlates to the horsepower. The motor that ships with your mill is a 2 HP B5 Flange motor with a shaft cut down to the D80 frame size. A 2 HP motor will provide increased performance at the higher RPMs where frictional fluid losses are the highest. Of course selecting the proper oil helps significantly as the fluid losses for a lighter oil are much less than that of a thicker oil. HP 1-1.1hp-kw 2-1.5hp-kw 3-2.2hp-kw ** RPM 3425 3425 3425 Leeson # 192064 192074 192084 Frame D80D D90SD * D90LD *

* Will need to have the shaft cut down to the D80 size, which is available from motor repair shops for a nominal fee. ** We do not recommend using a motor greater than 2HP and do not warranty any damages that may result. But, on the other hand, we are not so ignorant to think customers will not try it. That being said, here is the motor that will fit and will not exceed the weight of the current motor.

Selecting the VFD

A Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) is what converts single phase power to three phase power for the motor. Because a VFD is a solid-state device and it has built in current

limiting and protection circuits it will become the weakest link in your conversion to high-speed operation. Selecting a VFD that is in the next size range up from the motor you are choosing will give increased performance and less problems than one that is an exact match. This is because motor loading is measured over a period of time (thermal time constant) but it is possible to have short periods of very high current draw that will shut down the VFD, yet not adversely affect the motor. Now of course VFDs vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and you should discuss proper applications of their product with them.

Final Notes on High Speed Operation

Above 2000 RPM total machining power is actually decreasing as frictional fluid losses rise exponentially above that RPM. These losses show themselves in the form of additional current draw from the motor and an increase in head/oil temperature. For aluminum (most common machined material) peak material removal rates will be found in the 1700 to 2000 spindle RPM range and best final finish will be found at 3000 RPM. Do not try to achieve high-speed operation on the first day, give your machine 10-20 hours of 1500-RPM operation to break in before hand.

Disassembling Your Industrial Hobbies Mill

Disassembling your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill series consists of 5 segments:

Removing the Motor Removing the Head Removing the Table Removing the Saddle Removing the Column

Industrial Hobbies cannot stress that caution and common sense must be exercised when disassembling your mill. The components are very heavy and can cause severe injuries or worse if improperly handled or dropped. It is encouraged you enlist a few helpers when moving the pieces as many pieces weigh in excess of 200 pounds. As many of the pieces have sharp-machined edges it is also strongly recommended that gloves are worn during the process.

THINK SAFETY

We chose to do it right on the pallet and since the mill is bolted to the pallet as well it forms a secure platform.

Remove the top and bottom screw securing the switch cover.

Remove the screws securing the switch housing.

Switch hanging free.

Remove the four bolts securing the motor.

The motor will pull straight up.

Motor weighs about #45.

Motor removed and set aside.

Disassembling Your Industrial Hobbies Mill

Disassembling your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill series consists of 5 segments:

Removing the Motor Removing the Head

Removing the Table Removing the Saddle Removing the Column

Industrial Hobbies cannot stress that caution and common sense must be exercised when disassembling your mill. The components are very heavy and can cause severe injuries or worse if improperly handled or dropped. It is encouraged you enlist a few helpers when moving the pieces as many pieces weigh in excess of 200 pounds. As many of the pieces have sharp-machined edges it is also strongly recommended that gloves are worn during the process.

THINK SAFETY

Place one of the hand wheels on the Y axis and bring the table forward a few inches.

Place wood blocks on the table to support the head.

Make sure the quill is locked.

Reach under the head and remove the bolt underneath the head. That nut of that bolt will come off. Loosen one of the head bolts until it can go no further in the slot.

Shift to the other side of the head and remove the handles on the manual feed.

Bring that bolt as far forward as possible. Bring the table forward a pinch and complete removing the nuts on both sides.

With the nuts off the head is loose and can be lifted free and set aside.

The head weighs about 200#'s.

Disassembling Your Industrial Hobbies Mill

Disassembling your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill series consists of 5 segments:

Removing the Motor Removing the Head Removing the Table Removing the Saddle Removing the Column

Industrial Hobbies cannot stress that caution and common sense must be exercised when disassembling your mill. The components are very heavy and can cause severe injuries or worse if improperly handled or dropped. It is encouraged you enlist a few helpers when moving the pieces as many pieces weigh in excess of 200 pounds. As many of the pieces have sharp-machined edges it is also strongly recommended that gloves are worn during the process.

THINK SAFETY
Remove the Z axis cover.

And remove the rear way cover.

Remove everything from the front of the saddle.

Drive out the pin securing the dials, and remove the dials.

Remove the bolts securing the support.

Pull the support straight off.

Remove the bolts securing the other support.

Give the table a little push and the support will fall away.

Breaking the screw the rest of the way down is optional.

The table will now slide free and can be removed.

With the table removed, the X axis screw is revealed.

Remove the two bolts securing the X axis nut.

Remove the gib, and the two gib bolt spacers from the gib adjustment bolt holes.

Those little black things are important, and are easy to loose.

Disassembling Your Industrial Hobbies Mill

Disassembling your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill series consists of 5 segments:

Removing the Motor Removing the Head Removing the Table Removing the Saddle Removing the Column

Industrial Hobbies cannot stress that caution and common sense must be exercised when disassembling your mill. The components are very heavy and can cause severe injuries or worse if improperly handled or dropped. It is encouraged you enlist a few helpers when moving the pieces as many pieces weigh in excess of 200 pounds. As many of the pieces have sharp-machined edges it is also strongly recommended that gloves are worn during the process.

THINK SAFETY
Remove the two bolts securing the Y axis screw.

Give the saddle a little pull forward and the support will pop free.

Remove the Y axis nut bolt.

The Y axis nut will fall free and the screw can be removed by "unscrewing" the nut.

Remove the screw.

The saddle will slide forward and off.

Make sure you find the gib, gib bolts and spacers.

Saddle removed and set aside.

Saddle weighs about 35#'s.

Disassembling Your Industrial Hobbies Mill

Disassembling your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill series consists of 5 segments:

Removing the Motor Removing the Head Removing the Table Removing the Saddle Removing the Column

Industrial Hobbies cannot stress that caution and common sense must be exercised when disassembling your mill. The components are very heavy and can cause severe injuries or worse if improperly handled or dropped. It is encouraged you enlist a few helpers when moving the pieces as many pieces weigh in excess of 200 pounds. As many of the pieces have sharp-machined edges it is also strongly recommended that gloves are worn during the process.

THINK SAFETY
Remove the four bolts securing the column to the base.

Bolts removed.

Place a rag over the ways on the base.

Lay the column over the base.

The column weighs in excess of 250#'s.

Removed the Z axis crank handle.

And remove the two screws behind the handle.

Remove the small screw holding the bevel gears in place.

Remove the other bolt as well.

With a little tug the shaft will come out and the gear fall free.

Make sure you get all the small parts.

Remove the bevel gear on the Z axis screw.

Remove the three bolts securing the top of the Z axis screw.

Pass the Y axis screw up through the bottom of the column and align it with the bottom of the Z axis screw.

With a few taps the Z axis screw will come free of the bearing.

Remove the Z axis slide.

The small components of the Z axis slide.

The Z axis nut can be "unscrewed" to remove the Z axis screw.

Screw removed.

Remove the 4 bolts securing the side plate.

Use a small pry bar to pop the side plate free.

The bare column.

The final component is the base. With the shipping bolts removed, it too is free from the pallet.

Lapping the Ways

Cautions, Warnings, Setting up, and General Procedures
There are a fewer topics that are more heavily disputed on the web as to whether or not to hand lap the ways of your Chinese Mill/Drill. It is a sensitive topic, but the long and short of it is a simple truth. When you are done you will not regret doing it. We have converted many mills, and sold may kits and NEVER has a person regretted lapping the ways. The comments are more like "WOW!! What a difference that makes!". So whether this is the beginning of a CNC conversion or just a clean up for a great manual machine Industrial Hobbies strongly recommends lapping the ways.

Industrial Hobbies cannot stress that caution and common sense must be exercised whenever working with or on your mill. The components are very heavy and can cause severe injuries or worse if improperly handled or dropped. It is encouraged you enlist a few helpers when moving the pieces as many pieces weigh in excess of 200 pounds. As many of the pieces have sharp-machined edges it is also strongly recommended that gloves are worn when handling the pieces.

When lapping your mill exercise caution and common sense as there are many flamable solvents used during the procedure.

Proper Hand Placement

When handling any piece make sure that your hands and fingers (anything else for that matter) are in clear sight and not in risk of getting hurt. The above two pictures are a prime example of the safety issue.

The picture to the left shows how easy it is to put your thumb in the Z-Axis mount hole when holding the slide. The picture to the right shows that 3/4 of the way down the travel the cross support will sever your thumb off. It may seem funny when you read this, but it is very easy to put your fingers or thumb somewhere they shouldn't be simply to get a better grip or because your hands get tired of being in the same position. Once the lapping process gets going you will get a fair rhythm going and if something is in the wrong place, it will be SEVERELY DAMAGED.

As We Say; As We Do
There are time when we will say to do one thing and the picture shows another, wearing gloves is a prime example. This is a gray area, and we hope you lean towards the side of caution. When we omit an apparent safety step it is because we are VERY familiar with the risks and make an experience based decision.

General Setup

Here are all the parts ready to be lapped (sans base). Experience has shown it's better to keep them on a towel placed on the floor.

We set a couple of extra towels outside for a wash down area. This way when a piece is complete, it is removed and set down once while awaiting clean up.

Just outside of the frame is 6" of snow.

Here is the basic supplies to lap a machine.

Way lapping grits Rags (about a dozen) Gallon pail 1/4 full of paint thinner (mineral spirits, kerosene)

The base is SECURELY mounted to a stand or suitable table and poses no risk of flipping over or coming loose. You can use a light oil instead of a solvent, it slows down the action quite a bit, but it's not a flammable solvent.

Follow the manufacturers precautions when handling or dealing with any flammable solvent.

Final Thoughts on Lapping

The procedure for lapping the ways is fairly simple and straightforward. But, dont be fooled by its simplicity, it is laborious and a lot of hard work. Plan on at least 4 hours if your fast and well organized, but 6 hours is a good time estimate. Additionally plan on another hour or so for casting cleanup.

How much to lap?

Its hard to give an exact amount of strokes but as a general guideline here are some approximate counts: Grit 80 120 220 320 500 Strokes 20-30 40-50 40-50 40-50 40-50

The goal is to get a nice smooth consistent way travel, DO NOT lap until the every scrape/machine mark, imperfection or whatever you might see is gone. NICE SMOOTH TRAVEL, no more, no less. Keep in mind that the 80-120 grit is what does most of the hard work; its the job of finer grits

is to clean up the rest. It you have a section that is tight or just doesnt have a good feel, dont really work that section until the 220 grit or finer. The coarser grits dont provide enough feel to give you a good judgment of an area. Also, the finer grits will allow you to work a smaller area (less than a full stroke) while minimizing the risk of overdoing it.

Most of all, TAKE YOUR TIME.

Lapping the Ways

Lapping the Y Axis
We follow a bottom up approach when lapping, it minimizes the unnecessary moving of parts.

Start by wiping off all the packing grease and any other contaminates from the Y Axis ways.

The base is also wiped down, and a pinch of 80 grit is sprinkled down both ways.

Place the saddle on the ways.

Hold the saddle firmly and give it a firm forward slide.

Travel the saddle a fair bit past the ends of the dovetails on the back of the base.

Slide it 50% past the front to the base.

Do the coarser grits with the GIB OUT, then come back and hold the gib in position and give it a number of strokes as well.

After a grit is complete, give the ways a good wipe down and start with the next finer grit. Continue this process for all the grits.

About midway through the 220 put the gib key in loosely.

About midway through the 320 grit put the gib all the way in and start setting the gib adjustment bolts.

Here is what the way looks like completed.

All the components.

Key points for the Y-Axis

Over-travel the slide by 50% at the ends of each stroke.

We don't show every step for every axis as it's all pretty much the same. The detail shown here will be the same for the other axes.

Lapping the Ways

Lapping the X Axis

To make the lapping process easier we simply lay a rag across the base.

We then lay the entire table in line with the base and work from there.

That is one BIG table.

Here is the table with a nice distribution of the beginning grit.

When lapping it is important to keep the parts properly orientated. This shows the front of the table (note the grove in the table) and the four boles in the saddle.

This shows the back, notice no grove in the table and only two bolts.

Key points for the X-Axis

Over-travel the slide by 50% at the ends of each stroke.

We don't show every step for every axis as it's all pretty much the same. The detail shown in the Y-Axis is the same for all axes.

Lapping the Ways

Lapping the Z-Axis

Remove the table from the Base and replace it with the column.

And completed.

Key points for the Z-Axis

Over-travel the slide by 50% at the ends of each stroke.

We don't show every step for every axis as it's all pretty much the same. The detail

shown in the Y-Axis is the same for all axes.

Casting Cleanup
Cleaning the Table

The picture to the left shows the underside of the table. The green arrow shows a small casting nub that might snag a ballnut mount.

Using a small angle grinder all the small nubs and any other protrusions were removed.

The bottom of the two dovetails get hit is a "soft" (fairly old) 220 grit belt.

Cleaning up the bottom of the dovetails is 90% cosmetic, 10% removing a sharp edge on the bottom.

Bottom of the table is ready.

Cleaning the Column

The Column

Use a small angle grinder to clean the edge around the inside of the column.

We then use the same soft belt on the sander to clean up the top surface.

Cleaning up the top surface is 100% cosmetic.

Here is a picture of the flanges on the bottom of the column.

Use an angle grinder to remove all the paint and surface filler.

Close up.

Cleaning up the flanges allows for a more consistent torque on the column bolts, which improves traming and rigidity

Cleaning the Base

Use the same soft belt on the sander to remove all the paint on the top surface of the base.

Cleaning up the top surface is 100% cosmetic.

The final product.

Look at those ribs in the base....

Final Thought on Cleaning the Casting

Cleaning the casting is more of a nicety than a necessity. The steps do not add a lot of time to the total project and since the mill is apart you might as well do it.

Grinding and sanding might ignite solvents used in the lapping process. NEVER hit any of the ways or precision surfaces with a belt sander or grinder, doing so will ruin them.

Casting Wash Down

After lapping and cleaning the casting it is important to remove all the grit and contamination

For a wash down area we lay a few towels over a pallet.

Use a large scrub brush and dish detergent, scrub the ways, bolt holes, and all other contamination.

It's 20 degrees and the sun just went down, sometimes living in Maine has its problems.

When one piece is complete, immediately bring the piece inside and wipe down all the bare metal surfaces.

Surface rust will begin within 5 minutes, do NOT wait for it to air dry.

Immediately spray all bare metal surfaces with rust inhibitor.

We use Crown- Rust Inhibitor from KBC Tools.

Surface rust will begin within 5 minutes, do NOT wait for it to air dry.

All parts cleaned and sprayed with rust inhibitor. We allow them to dry over night.

Final Thoughts
When weather permits we use a pressure washer and a scrub brush. A mixture of a "Dawn" type dish soap and "Simple Green" works great. Clean all the other small parts in a solvent and allow them to dry as well. Make sure all the small nooks, crannies, and bolt holes are cleaned as well.

Basic Mill Footprint

One of the biggest requests we get is for a picture of our mill table/enclosure. Unfortunately we do not currently offer a plan for that. This is for a few reasons, but the biggest reason is liability. If we gave plans for a table using 2x4 steel tubing and all the other stuff like that, the table would run about $750 in materials alone and many customers would do it on the cheap anyway. Since we cannot control what you build and the quality you put into it it becomes difficult situation for us. We figured a fair compromise would be to provide a footprint of the mill and basic table positioning. The files are available for download below in many popular formats, of course if there is a format you need and it is not available just let us know. Table construction tips for building a table from wood.

Your table can be made from wood. Legs and support structure of 4x4's will carry the load of the mill without any problems. A suitable table top can be made from MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) To protect wood surfaces, mostly the "pan" Home Depot sells a product called "shower pan liner" which is a 4' wide 40 mil PVC material sold by the linear foot. Building a slant into the table is a good idea. Slanting the table left or right and to the front allows better return of the coolant. The only catch is you will need to make "sleepers" cut the opposite of the slant so the mill sits level. Make sure to seal and protect the table from coolant, coolant wicking onto the MDF will eventually cause it to decompose, which will lead to table failure.

No matter what you do, take your time and build a quality structure, the mill weighs about 1000 lbs plus any additional weight you put on it during machining so build accordingly.

LatheMaster/Industrial Hobbies Slide Modification

To correct a design deficiency in the Z Axis slide assemble we came up with the following modification. We would like to say that this is not a slam on LatheMaster or our mills, every Asian mill has issues, and it is still our opinion that an Industrial Hobbies/LatheMaster mill is of the finest quality available.

Here is the original Z-axis slide assembly, you can see we've already did a little design drawings.

The back of the slide.

Here lies the problem, the entire acme nut SLIDES right out of the hole. There is nothing for the acme nut to mount to. This was causing quite a bit of play in the Z-Axis.

Spin a little bushing out of steel and put a matching recess in the slide. The bushing is actually 0.025 short, this allows the bolt to tightened right up.

Just for reference, the diameter at the widest part is 1.5", so it's a pretty healthy bushing.

Here is the bushing installed. The entire assembly is now as solid as a rock.

We do this modification free for our customers who purchase a CNC conversion kit. You must cover shipping to and fro. If you have not purchased the conversion kit, the cost is $40 plus shipping.

Installing a Power Feed on Your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill

Part1

If manual machining is your preference there are few accessories more convenient than a power feed. Here we will show you how to install the power feed on your Industrial Hobbies Mill. We would like to thank Bob at LatheMaster Metalworking Tools for sending this unit over. This unit can be had from Bob for just $239 and is comparable to units from other importers costing a lot more.

If you're looking for other metalworking tools check out his site. You'll really want to look at his keyless drill chucks, their AWESOME (we own 7 of them).

Here are the contents of the power feed from LatheMaster.

Start by removing the the handwheel from the left hand side of the mill.

Once remove simply put the included drive gear on the lead screw. Use thread locker here.

Loosely bolt the power feed to the mounting bracket.

It looks crooked because it's loose.

Set the entire feed over the edge of the table. A clamp comes in handy right about now.

Tighten the mounting bolts.

Once mounted, you will need to align the the two drive gears, just wiggle it about until they line up.

Once aligned, tighten the mounting bolts.

Now you will need to adjust the height of the feed so the gears mesh properly. Loosen the bolts (one on the other side too) and slide the entire unit down until everything feels good.

You can check the mesh by turning the Xaxis handle on the other side.

Tighten the bolts.

Continue to Part 2

Installing a Power Feed on Your Industrial Hobbies Square Column Mill

Part2

If manual machining is your preference there are few accessories more convenient than a power feed. Here we will show you how to install the power feed on your Industrial Hobbies Mill. We would like to thank Bob at LatheMaster Metalworking Tools for sending this unit over. This unit can be had from Bob for just $239 and is comparable to units from other importers costing a lot more.

If you're looking for other metalworking tools check out his site. You'll really want to look at his keyless drill chucks, their AWESOME (we own 7 of them). Back to Part 1

Remove the center stop.

Here is the center limit holder, the hold don't quite line up.

I bored the holes a pinch larger and chamfered the top back edge.

I needed to chamfer the back edge so it wouldn't rub on the table.

Center limit holder installed.

And installing the center limit.

I didn't put the sticker on the limit, it came that way. But apparently this is the NEW LimitSwitch and they are quite proud of it.

Remove the old limit stops.

On goes the new limit stops (they are quite a bit taller).

Run the table to about the edge, and set the stop.

Run it the other way and set the stop.

And your done.

You might want to secure the power and limit cords a little better.

We found that the other X axis handle developed a rattle when we were power feeding, so to cure the problem removed the handle and installed an O'ring on both sides of the handle and then reinstalled it.

Put one on the thread side too. A 3/8 ID x 1/16 O'ring works great.

Back to Part 1